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BLACK'S 
PICTUEESQUE TOUEIST 



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IRELAND 



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FIFTEENTH EDITION 



EDINBURGH 

ADAM AND CHARLES BLACK 

1877 



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PICTURESQUE TOURIST 



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IRELAND 



TO TOURISTS. 

The Editor of BLACK'S GUIDE BOOKS vnU he glad to re- 
ceive any Suggestions or Notes of Corrections which may occur to 
Tourists Toaking use of these works. 

Communications, attested hy the name of the writer^ should be 
addressed to tlie Fitblishers. 



CONTENTS. 






PAiSE 

General description of Ireland . • . e 1 


Dublin City, with plan 






9 


Wicklow Mountains, 






. 71 


Cork and Queenstown, with plan 






. 153 


Blarney and The Blackwater 






. 167 


Killarney, with plan . 






. 178 


Limerick . . . . , 






. 230 


The Shannon, Lower . . 






• 234 


Clare County . . . , 






. 237 


Galway and Environs . 






. 263 


Connemara .... 






. 273 


Enniskillen and Lough Erne 






. 311 


Belfast and Environs, with plan . 






. 323 


Giant's Causeway and surroundings 


J, tcith 


map 


. 378 


Londonderry and Environs . 






. 397 


Donegal Highlands, with map 






. 404 


Index . . . • . 






. 415 



PICTUKESQUE TOUEIST 

OP 

lEELAND 



Situation — ^Name — Extent — General Aspect — Rivers — Lakes — Greology — 
Climate — Agriculture — Animal Kingdom — Fisheries — Manufactures — 
Internal Communication — Revenue — Administration — Ecclesiastical 
Institutions — Educational Institutions — Population. 

Ireland, a large island, rhomboidal in form, is the western- 
most of the British Isles, lying between N. lat. 51° 26' — 
55° 21', and W. long. 5^ 20' — 10° 26'. It is separated from 
Britain on the NJE. by the North Channel, about 1 4 miles 
in width ; on the E, by the Irish Sea, 130 miles broad ; 
and on the SJE. by St. George's Channel^ about 70 miles 
in breadth. 

The island has been called by the natives from the 
earliest times En, or Erin, signifying " western," and from 
which most of its other names are derived. Thus, the 
Greeks knew of it under the name of lema, while Ptolemy 
and Juvenal called it respectively louema and luvema, 
hence the corruption Hibemia. Bj the ancient Britons it 
was called Iverdon, and afterwards named by their Saxon 
conquerors lerland, or Ireland. The appellation of Scotia, 
sometimes applied to Ireland, originated in the fourth cen- 
tury, when it was in common use among the learned, Thia 
title, however^ properly belongs to Scotland- 

B 



2 IRELAND. 

Extent. — ^The longest line tliat can be drawn within 
Ireland measures 304 miles, from KK to S.W., and the 
greatest width is 194 miles. The area amounts to 
20,808,271 acres. 

Aspect. — The surface of the country is an undultiting 
plaia, rising in some parts to a considerable elevation, and 
in others formhig extensive levels, occupied by bogs or 
moorland. Its scenery is characterised by openness of 
prospect, beauty, and picturesqueness, but wants in gran- 
deur. More than half of the land is arable, and about a 
sixth under plantation, the rest being covered with moor, 
water, or buildings. There are no hills that could be 
properly called mountains in Ireland, although some of 
tliem nearly approach that rank. The highest peaks in the 
principal ranges are — 

Carrantual Macgillicuddy Reeks — Kerry , 8414 feet. 

Lngnaquilla — Wicklow 3039 „ 

Slieve Donard, Mourne Mountains — Down . 2796 „ 

Mulrea— Mayo 2688 „ 

Comeragh— Waterford 2597 „ 

Errigal— Donegal 2462 „ 

The coast line of the island exhibits great indentations on 
its western shores, many of which stretch inland for many 
miles under the name of loughs. . The interior, moreover, 
contains several extensive sheets of water, and is traversed 
by numerous rivers, some of considerable length. 

EiVERS. — Of these the principal are the Shannon, the 
Barrow, the Suir, the Lee, the Slaney, the Erne, the Foyle, 
the Bann, the Blackwaters, the Boyne, and the Liffey. The 
Shannon, the largest river in the United Kingdom, rises in 
the western extremity of Cavan county, and takes a gene- 
rally southern course through Loughs Allen, Eee, and 
Dearg, until it reaches the sea at Limerick. Its total 
length is 240 miles, and it is navigable for barges as high 
up as Lough Allen, only ^\e nules from its source. The 
Barrow rises, along with its tributary the Nore, in Queen's 
county, -among the SUevebloom Mountains, and enters 



IRELAND. 



Waterford Harbour after a course of 100 miles. The 
Bovne, historically famous, originates in the central table- 
land of Leinster, and after a north-western course throws 
Itself into the Irish Sea at Drogheda. 

Lakes. — Ireland has long been celebrated for the 
number and extent of its loughs — no country of Europe, of 
the same proportions, possessing so large an area occupied 
by fresh-water lakes. Lough Neagh, in Ulster, is the 
greatest lake in the United Kingdom, and one of the 
largest in Europe. It is 14 miles long by 1 1 in breadth, 
covering an area of 98,255 acres, and its surface is 48 feet 
above, while its deepest parts are some feet below the sea 
at low water. Loughs Erne, upper and lower, in Fer- 
managh county, are two long narrow lakes, thickly dotted 
with islets, and connected with each other by an expansive 
river of the same name. The upper lough measures 14 
miles in length, and the lower 25 miles in length, by a 
mean breadth of four miles. Loughs Corrib and Mask, 
situated in Connaught, are separated from each other by 
an isthmus about three miles in width. The surface of 
the former is only 1 4 feet above sea level. The following 
shews the area of the chief lakes in the country : — 



Lough Neagh — Ulster 


98,255 acres. 


„ Corrib — Connaught 


43,484 „ 


„ Dearg— :Munster 


29,570 „ 


„ Erne, Lower— Ulster . 


28,000 „ 


„ Mask — Connaught 


22,219 „ 


„ Erne, Upper— Ulster . 


9,278 „ 


„ Killamey (three lakes>-Mur 


ister . 6,111 „ 



Geology. — The hill ranges of Ireland consist, for the 
most part, of the older or primitive rocks, while the great 
central plain of the country is chiefly formed of calcareous 
strata. Coal, there is every reason to believe, exists in 
large quantities, although it is as yet very sparingly 
worked. The chief fields now being wrought are at Eal- 
kenny and Carlo w, where the mineral occurs in the state 
of anthracite. The abundant supply of peat, however, 



4 IRELAND. 

makes up in great measure for the deficiency of coal in the 
rural districts, wMle the inhabitants of the seaport towns 
are supplied with coal from Wales and other places. Iron, 
though it exists in the coal measures, is not in suffi- 
cient quantity to pay working expenses. Copper and lead 
are also found, and are mined at six different places, while 
sulphur is procured in the county Wicklow, and is shipped 
in the rough state to Wales, where the requisite fuel for its 
purification is to be had cheaper than in Ireland. 

Igneous rocks abound in the north of the island, and 
form, on the Antrim coast, the far-famed Giant's Causeway. 
Granite, in especial, is abundant in many parts of the 
country, and at Killiney Hill, near Dublin, is wrought as 
a building stone. Silurian, and even cambrian strata have 
been found, the latter containing the fossil Oldhamia, while 
Devonian is widely distributed. At Kilkenny, the yellowish 
grey beds of this rock contain ferns {Cyclopteris Hibernica) 
and fresh- water shells {Anodon Jukesii), The carboniferous 
limestone likewise abounds in fossils. 

Climate. — The temperature of Ireland is more equable 
than that of England or Scotland, the winters being less 
severe, and the summers not so warm. This dijfference is 
especially noticeable on the west and southern coasts, where 
the effects of the Gulf Stream are more immediately felt. 
The mean annual temperature of the country is stated at 
from 48° to 50°. The winds are chiefly from the west and 
south' west, bringing a copious supply of rain. The ave- 
rage fall in the whole country is computed, by Sir Kobert 
Kane, at 36 inches per annum. In Cork, the average is 
40.20 inches, and at Dublin 30.87. 

Agriculture.— -Although much improved within a 
few years back, the agriculture of Ireland is by no means 
in an advanced state. The humidity of the atmosphere, 
and equal nature of the temperature, is favourable to the 
production of grass, which here grows in great luxuriance. 
The same cause acts prejudicially on the wheat crop. Of 
cereals those most generally raised are oats and barley. 



IRELAND. 5 

Flax is extensively grown in the north, and the potato is to 
be found in every district. The fact of so much of the 
land being in the hands of poor tenants cultivating a farin 
of from two to ten acres, tends materially to retard the 
progress of agriculture ; while the carelessness of some of 
the landlords is another obstacle to the progress of this 
important branch of industry. 

Animal Kingdom. — The breeds of domestic animals 
are now assimilating closely to those of Britain. The little 
Kerry cow and the Irish deer-hound, the last remaining 
native breeds, are fast disappearing. Eagles, however, still 
frequent the rocky summits of the mountains, and the red 
deer is yet to be found among the sheltered recesses of 
Killarney. Squirrels are rarely, and moles never met with. 
Frogs are plentiful, and though the common toad is un- 
known, the less repulsive naterjack, or yellow-striped toad, 
occurs in Kerry county. 

Fisheries. — The shores of Ireland are frequented by 
vast shoals of fish. Stations are established round the 
whole coast, which supply the inland markets with abun- 
dance of fresh cod, haddock, hake, and flat-fish. Herrings 
are caught on the west coast from Donegal to Cork, on the 
coast of Wicklow, and on some other parts of the east coast 
Salmon are abundant in most of the rivers, as well as trout 
and other fresh-water fish. Lobsters are procured in large 
quantities on the west shores of Connaught, and sent to the 
London market. 

Manufactures. — "WooUens, at one time the staple 
manufacture of Ireland, are now produced in comparatively 
small quanties, chiefly for home consumption. Wicklow 
is the seat of the flannel, and Kilkenny that of the blanket 
manufacture, while coarse friezes are made throughout the 
country. Cottons are made in few counties, and employ 
about 5000 hands. The linen manufacture, however, has 
now become the most important in Ireland, and is fully 
developed in the north, especially about Belfast. One 
company alone employs upwards of 1000 hands, and has 



6 IRELAND. 

about ,£100,000 wortli of flax regularly in course of mani- 
pulation. In 1866 there were no fewer than 44 mills in 
the country, with a total of 10,500 power looms at work. 
Figured muslins are also made to a considerable extent in 
the north of Ireland, and the Irish poplin manufacture is 
now assuming an important position. The other articles 
manufactured here are laces, silks, figiired muslins, gloves, 
paper, cutlery, glass, pottery, sailcloth, dyes, and chemicals. 
Porter is extensively brewed in the vicinity of Dublin, and 
whisky in all parts of the country. 

Internal Communication. — The roads in Ireland are 
generally equal to those in England or Scotland, and have 
the recommendation, that there are few toll-bars. Of canals 
the most important are — the Grand, passing from Dublin 
through the county Kildare, thence through King's county 
to the Shannon, near Banagher, with a continuation to 
Ballinasloe, and several minor branches ; the Eoyal, through 
the counties Dublin, Meath, Westmeath, and Longford, to 
the Shannon at Termononbarry ; and the Ulster, Lough 
Erne, and Shannon Canal. Railways are every year 
increasing in extent. The ^Midland Great Western unites 
Dublin with Galway, running right across the island. 
The Great Southern and Western brings Cork and Killar- 
ney within a few hours' distance of the capital ; while 
I'jimerick, Tipperary, Waterford, Kilkenny, Carlo w, and 
Kildare, are connected with each other by a united system 
of railroads. In the north, continuous liaes unite Dublin 
with Drogheda, Belfast, Coleraine, Londonderry, and Ennis- 
killen. 

Value of Property. — The valuation of the property 
(land and income) in Ireland for the year 1868 was placed 
at £25,422,000, while in 1858 it stood at £22,555,000, 
showing an increase of nearly three millions in ten 
years. The net receipt of the property and income tax in 
1870 amounted to £613,000. 

Administration. — The local government is in the 
hands of a Lord Lieutenant, appointed by the Crown, and 



IRELAND. 7 

who is assisted by a privy council. In the Imperial Par- 
liament, Ireland is represented by 105 members, 64 being 
returned for the counties, 39 for cities and boroughs, and 
2 for the university of Dublin. The country is divided 
into 32 counties, 9 of these forming the province of Ulster, 
1 2 that of Leinster, 6 that of Munster, and 5 that of Con- 
naught. The constabulary force, established by the late 
Sir Kobert Peel when Secretary for Ireland, consists of 
12,000 men, under the superintendence of an Inspector- 
General, two deputies, and other inferior officers. 

Eeligion. — The principal Protestant church in Ireland 
is the English Episcopal, which is superintended by 2 
archbishops (Armagh and Dublin), 10 bishops, and 2200 
clergy. The Eoman Catholic clergy nimiber about 2300, 
with 23 bishops and 4 archbishops. The Presb}i:erian 
chui'ch, influential in the north only, is under the charge 
of from 600 to 700 clergy. 

Educational Institutions. — The University of Trinity 
College, Dublin, is the most important educational institu- 
tion in Ireland. The Queen's University, consisting of 
colleges in Belfast, Cork, and Galway, was founded in 
1845. These are intended for all religious denominations. 
Several Eoman Catholic colleges exist, the most important 
of which are at Maynooth, Dublin, and Tuam. National 
schools are scattered throughout the whole country, and are 
steadily disseminating education among the people. 

Population. — The potato famine of 1845, and the 
consequent emigration, have told materially on the popu- 
lation of Ireland. In 1841 there were 8,175,124 souls; 
in 1851 only 6,551,970; and in 1871,5,402,759. Of 
this number 4,141,933 were Eoman Catholics, 683,295 
Episcopalians, 503,461 Presbyterians, and 74,070 of vari- 
ous denominations. 

LANvi^UAGE. — The mass of the Irish people speak the 
English tongue alone, only a tenth part of the whole popu- 
lation being able to speak both Gaelic and English, and 
but a very few knowing Gaelic only. In the south and 



lEELAND. 



west tlie latter is mncli more spoken than in the north 
and east, where it is fast disappearing. The Irish Gaelic 
or Erse forms a hranch of the Scottish and the Welsh 
Gaelic, especially resembling the former. The following 
will be useful in determining the meaning of the most 
common names in Ireland. 



AgTh, a field. 

Ard.y an eminence. 

At\ a ford. 

Aun, a river. 

Bally y a. town. 

Ban, or Bane, white or fair. 

Beg, little. 

Ben, a monntain. 

Bun, the base or bottom. 

Car, or Cahir, a city. 

Carrick, Carrig, Carrow, a rock. 

Cork, Corcagh, a marsh. 

Clar, a plain. 

Croagh, Croghan, a peak. 

Clogh, Clough, a stone. 

Curragh, a moor. 

Clon, a meadow. 

Col, Cul, a comer. 

Deargh, red. 

Derry, an oak grove. 

Dhu, Dua, black. 

Don or Dun, a fRstnea;. 



DonagTi, a church. 

Drom, a hill-range. 

Inch, Inis, an island. 

Ken, a head. 

Kil, church or bnrying-groTmd. 

Knock, a hillock. 

Lick, a fiat stone. 

Lough, a lake. 

Magh, a plain. 

Main, a collection of hillocks. 

Mor, great. 

Muck, a sow. 

Bath, a mound or fort. 

Ross, a headland, also a wood. 

S7ia7i, old. 

Sliehh, a range of mountains. 

Teach, a house. 

Temple, a church. 

Tow, room, a tumulus. 

Tra, a strand. 

Tober, Tubher, a well or spring. 

Tallaghf Tully, & knoiL 



iMiiUJii 



wv^ voAxi/vvA vu. Lxic iumr, strcii as v/iiesLex- aiiu the 



DUBLIN. 



THE PASSAGE 

From Holyhead to Kingstown, 63 miles — 4 to 5 hotiTS* sail SevCTal 

packets each day. Two meet the mail trains daily from Chester. 
From Liverpool to Dublin, 137 miles— 10 to 12 hours* saiL Several 

packets sail each day. 
From Glasgow to Dublin, 223 miles — 18 to 20 hours* saiL Five times a 

week. 
From Whitehaven to Dublin calling at the Isle of Man, dependent on 

weather. 
From Silloth to Dublin calling at the Isle of Man, dependent on weather. 

The tourist wlio for tlie first time visits Ireland would do 
well to land at Dublin, that being the centre point of all 
the great tonrs throughout the country. 

The voyage across the Irish Channel from either of the 
ports above mentioned is generally attended with much of 
the disagreeable, as the turbulence of the sea there is not 
surpassed even by the dreaded straits of Dover. The 
shortest route, therefore, via Holyhead, should always be 
adopted if possible. 

By this route Dublin can be reached in eleven hours 
from London, and eight hours from Manchester. The 
Holyhead packets land their passengers at Kingstown, only 
half an hour's distance from the Irish capital, while the 
Liverpool and Glasgow steamers go direct to the city. If 
the traveller, moreover, is not in haste, some interesting 
places can be visited on the road, such as Chester and the 



10 DUBLIN. 

Britannia Bridge, by tlie Holyliead route ; and the firth, of 
Clyde by tbe steamers from Glasgow. 

Travelling in Ireland is not quite so expensive as in 
either of the sister kingdoms, and the railroads are so laid 
that extensive tours can be taken with great expedition. 
It is possible for a tourist to go through the length and 
breadth of the land in ten days, taking hasty views of the 
chief objects of interest ; although he would find it much 
more pleasant to attempt less if his time be limited, and 
rather restrict himself to one part of the island at a time. 
It is with this consideration that the present work has 
been divided into four sections, which, though consecutive, 
are unique in themselves. 

Eegarding hotels, it is difficult to specify any rule as to 
the charges in vogue. These naturally vary according to 
the price of provisions, the locality of the house, and the 
extent of the tourist season. The following tariff, however, 
may be given as an indication of the general charges. — 
Breakfast Is. 6d. to 2s. 6d., dinner 2s. 6d. to 4s. 6d., table 
d'hote 3s. to 5s., tea Is. 6d. to 2s. 6d., bedroom 2s. to 3s., 
sitting-room 3s. to 6s., attendance Is. 6d., glass of punch 
6d. to 9d., cup of coffee 6ds 



HOTELS. 



11 



CITY OF DUBLIN. 

Hotels. — Shelboume, Stephen's Green. Gresliain, 21 Upper Sackville 
Street. Morrison's, 1 Dawson Street. Maeken's, 12 Dawson Street. 
Hibernian, 48 Dawson Street. Imperial, 21 Lower Sackville Street. 
BHton, 56 Upper Sackville Street. Angel, Inner Quay, near Four 
Courts. Tarpey's (Family), 6 Nassau Street. Koyal Albert (Family), 
3 Dominick Street. Jury's Commereial, 7 College Green. Boyal 
Arcade, 33 College Green, and 4 Suffolk Street. Trinee of "Wales, 37 
Lower Sackville Street. Verdon's, 35 Talbot Street, near Belfast 
Railway Station. European, 4 Bolton Street. Abbey, 102 Middle 
Abbey Street. Coffey's, 11 Upper Dominick Street. Dolpliin, 45 
East Essex Street Aitken's (Temperance), 34 "Westmoreland Street. 
Abereorn (Temperance), 1 Great Brunswick Street. Ulster (Temper- 
ance) and Dining-Rooms, 18 Abbey Street. Kinsley's Bestaurant, 27 
St. Andrew Street, and 6 Chui'cb Lane. 



CENSUS OF DUBLIN IN 1871. 


Population. 


Number of Houses. 


Religion. 


Males 115,618 

Females 130,708 

Total 246,326 

Pop. in 1861 254,808 

Decrease 8482 


Inhabited 23,896 

Uninhabited. . 1059 
Building 87 

Total 25,042 

Numb, in 1861 24,585 


Catholic 195,180 

Episcopal .... 39,897 
Presbyterian . . 4517 
Various 6732 

Total 246,326 

1 


Increase 447 



ABSTRACT FROM THE DUBLIN POLICE 

CARRIAGE REGULATIONS. 

All complaints of misconduct against owners or drivers are to be preferred 
to the Magistrates of the Di\dsion in which the complaint may arise, 
within fourteen days after the offence is committed. 

SCHEDULE OF RATES AND FARES TO BE PAID FOR ANT 
HACKNEY COACH. 

Drawn hy One Horse, hired and taken within the City, Suburhs, and Liberties 
of Dublin, or within Ten Statute Miles from the General Post Office, 

Fares within the Borough. 
1. For a drive from any place within the Municipal Boundary of Dublin, 
direct to any other place, without delay, for not more than two persons, 
each article of luggage 2d. extra — 6d. (between 10 p.m. and 9 a.m., Is.) 



12 DUBLIT?* 

For more than two, and not more than fonr persons, 3 articles of lug- 
gage — 13. 

In the latter casCy tTie driver, if required, muit bring the employer back 
for the same fare, if the delay does not exceed fifteen minutes. 
?. Hackney Coaches may be engaged by time, either within or beyond the 
Municipal Boundary of Dublin, not exceeding the distance of seven 
Irish miles from the Circular Road, at the rate, for the first hour, of— 
2s. (within the borough, Is, 6d.) 
For every half-hour, commenced after the first hour — 9d. 

But no Hackney Coach is hound to a time engagement within the 

Municipal Boundary of Dublin, hey ond five consecutive hours. 
iPouUe rates charged between 10 p.m. and 9 a.m.] 
Fares beyond, or partly beyond and partly within the borough. 
S. For a drive from any place within the Municipal Boundary of Dublin, to 
any place beyond the same, or for a drive entirely outside of the same» 
and in both cases returning with the employer, provided there be not a 
delay of more than thirty minutes— for every statute mile actually tra- 
velled with the employer— 6d. 
For the same, but not returning with the employer — ^for every statute mile 

actually travelled with the employer — 6d. 
For every half mile (statute measure) commenced after the first mile, 
one-half of the above rates, in either of the two cases immediately pre- 
ceding. 
4. Employers detaining Hackney Coaches in waiting beyond 30 minutes, 
to pay for every J of an hour of such further detention— 3d. 
Hackney Coaches are not hound to go heyond 7 miles from Circular 
Road, and the driver expects 2d. or M. a mile extra when heyoiid 
the horough. 

Other Regulations enact, that the driver can claim an hour's fare in ad- 
vance in cases of hour hiring ; that if unemployed on stand, road, street, or 
passage, he shall not refuse a hire ; that, when hired, he shall not delay, 
loiter, or fail to perform services for which he has been employed ; that he 
must travel at the rate of five miles per hour at least ; that all licensed 
Hackney Coaches shall be kept clean and dry, and in good and perfect 
repair, as also the braces, harness, and tackling used with the same. 

Tramway Cars run from the General Post Olffice, Sackville Street, to 
the Exhibition Palace and close to the King's Bridge terminus of the Great 
Southern and Western Railway. They also run to the eastern and southern 
suburbs of the town. 

SITUATION, AND Preliminary Observations. — 
Dublin is situated on the banks of the river Liffey, which, 
running from west to east, divides it into two nearly equal 
parts. After leaving the town, the river expands into a 



PRELIMINARY OBSERVATIONS. 13 

noble bay, whicb is guarded on the one side by tbe hill of 
Howth, and on the other by Ealliney hill, near KingstowTi. 
The river is navigable as far as Carlisle Bridge, in the centre 
of the town, but the heavier vessels seldom pass above the 
Custom-House. A serious impediment to the navigation 
of the river used to exist in the sliape of a sand-bar at the 
entrance of the harbour, but of late years this has been 
removed, so that large ships can now enter. Dublin con- 
tains many fine buildings, which will be described in their 
proper place, and is the seat of a university, as well as of 
the higher courts of law. It is well supplied vrith places 
of worship of every denomination, and for the recreation 
of the citizens has a beautiful public park, situated within 
a short distance of the town, besides botanic gardens, 
museums, a picture gallery, and theatres. The town is not 
famed for any particular branch of trade, while its export 
traflO-C is at present insignificant. Those trades, however, 
connected with articles of apparel and common consump- 
tion are in a thri^dng condition. The manufacture of 
poplin, which had shewn symptoms of decline, seems to 
have revived again, especially after the stimulus given it 
by the exhibitions of 1851 and 1853. It was about the 
year 1780 that the trade first assumed a degree of import- 
ance in Dublin, though it had been introduced by the 
French Huguenots in the reign of William III. From that 
period till the Union, in 1800, it had been gradually in- 
creasing in extent ; but suddenly declined after the trans- 
ference of the Irish Parliament to London ; and Iiishmen 
are fain to link the two events together as cause and effect. 
At the present day the entire number of Jacquard looms 
at work in Dublin is about 200. That portion of the 
town known as the Liberties, and generally shunned by 
the tourist on account of its desolation, was the former seat 
of the silk trade. " At the time of the Union," we are told, 
" and for some years afterwards, the Liberties presented sl, 
scene like the business part of Manchester. Fully forty 
thousand people lived by the employment given there." 



14 DUBLIN. 



PRINCIPAL SIGHTS. 

The objects of interest in Dublin will be notiped in their order dtLring 
the Walks ; but it is thought expedient to select the chief of them for the 
use of tourists who may have no time for the prescribed routes, and care 
little for the objects of minor interest within the city. 

Those who have not much time to spare are recommended to hire a car 
for three or four hours, and they will find the carman very ready in giving 
descriptions. 

I. Bank of Ireland. 2. Trinity College. 3. Dublin Castle. 4. Christ's 
Church Cathedral. 5. Cathedral of St. Patrick. 6. General Post-Office. 
7. Nelson's Monument. 8. Custom-House. 9. Four Courts. 10. Phoenix 
Park. 

[These numbers also correspond with the figures in the Plan.'] 

1. THE BANK OF IRELAND, in College Green, for- 
merly used as the Parliament House, occupies tlie site of a 
building which was begun early in the seventeenth cen- 
tury by the then High Treasurer, Sir G. Carey, and cost 
the sum of X4000. Originally intended for an hospital, it 
became successively the seat of justice and a mansion. 
The present building was commenced in 1729 and com- 
pleted in 1787, costing altogether the sum of <£95,000, 
The company of the Bank of Ireland, however, purchased 
it in 1802 for the sum of £40,000, and an annual rent of 
<£240. The plan of the building may be more advan- 
tageously studied from a beautiful model shewn within 
than from any external view which can be obtained. It is 
somewhat semicircular in shape, with a beautiful colonnade 
of Ionic columns facing College Green, and portico in the 
centre, in the tympanum of which is placed the Royal 
Arms, appropriately surmounted by emblematical figures 
of Hibernia, Commerce, and Fidelity. The entrance to 
the former House of Lords was by a portico on the eastern 
side, the columns presentmg the anomaly of the Corinthian 
order. The figures here are Fortitude, Liberty, and Jus- 
tice. The western entrance, like the colonnade, is in the 
. Ionic style of architecture. The beautiful quadrangular 
apartment, now used as the cash-office, was erected by 
the Bank authorities upon the site of the House of 



PRmCIPAL SIGHTS. 15 

Commo7is, whicli was a large room of an oval shape. 
The House of Lords, to which visitors are admitted, 
remains unaltered, save that the site of the throne is 
now occupied by a statue of King George III. The 
chairs are in their places, the long table in the centre, 
and the old tapestry still hanging on the walls. This has 
on the left a representation of King William crossing the 
Boyne, with poor Schomberg expiring almost under his 
horse's feet ; and on the right the Siege of Derry. Both 
pieces of needlework are in excellent preservation. The 
mantel-piece in this room is deserving of notice, being 
formed of dark Kilkenny marble, beautifully sculptured. 
Various other rooms, formerly used as committee-rooms, 
are now occupied for business purposes. Before leaving, 
the attendant will show the model of the building ; and by 
application to the secretary, visitors may inspect the print- 
ing of the bank notes, an interesting operation. 

2. TRINITY COLLEGE is situated immediately oppo- 
site the Bank. In the year 1311, Pope Clement V. 
granted a bull to John Leek, Archbishop of Dublin, to 
erect a university, which, however, was not acted upon ; 
and not until his successor, A. de Bicknor, obtained a simi- 
lar authority from Pope John XXII., were statutes drawn 
up, and a college founded. Like most other institutes of 
learning. Trinity College was closed in the time of Henry 
VIII., again to be opened in the reign of his daughter 
Elizabeth, who erected it into a corporation, consisting of 
a provost, three fellows, and three scholars, designating it 
by the name of the " College of the Holy and Indivisible 
Trinity, near Dublin." In 1627 a new code of laws was 
framed, by which the number of fellows was fixed at seven, 
of scholars at twenty, and of probationer fellows at nine. 
During and after the civil wars of the protectorate, the 
college fell to a very low ebb, but was brought again to a 
flourishing condition with the return of royalty to the throne. 
J«mes I. and Charles XL befriended the college, endowing 



1 6 DUBLIN. 

it with lands in Ulster and other parts. Several private 
individuals have also made liberal bequests ; among others, 
those of Erasmus Smith are deserve'dly esteemed, seeing 
that no less than five professorships have been endowed 
from the sums left by him. The instruction is carried on 
by means of lectures and periodical examinations, though the 
details of literary and scientific educations are intrusted to 
the eighteen junior fellows, who are elected to their honour- 
able post after a strict examination. The external fa9ade 
of the College is, though plain, very beautiful ; it is built 
of Portland stone, and in the Corinthian style, measuring 
300 feet in length. The central part is ornamented with 
tall columns, let into the wall, and supporting an elegant 
pediment. This portion, to which visitors are admitted on 
presenting their card, is 

The Museum, a collection which, though small, is 
creditable to all concerned, and especially to the late Dr 
Robert Ball. At the entrance bronze statues of Goldsmith 
and Burke, by Foley, have been recently erected. They 
are both admirable works of art, and contrast favourably 
with the statue of Moore in College Street. The collection 
of Irish birds is very fine, the specimens being in good 
condition, and the series all but complete. Among them 
may be observed with interest the golden eagle, the erne, 
the spotted eagle, and a vulture, all shot in the south of 
Ireland. Some of the specimens originally preserved here 
were removed' to the Geological Museum situate at another 
part of the building. The other departments are also de- 
serving of notice, especially the antiquities, which include 
the old charter horn of King O'Kavanagh, and an ancient 
Irish harp, said to have been that of Brien Boroimhe. 

First Court- Yard. — The building on the right, with 
the portico of four Corinthian pillars, is the examination- 
hall, the scene of many a severe ordeal. Internally it is 
decorated with portraits of illustrious characters, some of 
them originally students of the College — the sarcastic Dean 
Swift, Bishop Berkeley, Archbishop King, and Lord Oriel, 



TRINITY COLLEQE. 17 

being among the number. Every artist lias heard of 
Hewitson's noble monument, executed by him at Rome, to 
the memory of Provost Baldwin, a liberal benefactor to 
the College, who died in 1758. This monument, which 
is placed on the west wall of the room, is composed of 
black and white marble, with the addition of Egyptian 
porphyry. It is emblematical, and represents the provost 
in a reclining position, with an angel at his feet holding a 
palm branch, while the genius of the university bends over 
him. Eight opposite the examination-hall, on our left, as 
we enter the quadrangle, is a building of similar style, used 
as the chapel. Internally it resembles the last building 
as regards decorations, though the different purpose of the 
building necessarily requires a somewhat different arrange- 
ment. Further on, on the same side, is the 

Dining Hall or Refectory, containing portraits of 
Grattan, Lord Avonmore, Lord Chief Justice Downs, Hussey 
Burgh, Henry Flood, Lord Kilwarden, and Frederick Prince 
of Wales, the father of George III. Here a range of build- 
ings formerly divided this quadrangle into two, and in one 
of the rooms the author of the " Deserted Yillage " resided, 
when he was wont to dispense his willing but often ill 
judged charities. A handsome granite bell-tower in the 
middle of the quadi'angle, ornamented by four statues 
typifying Divinity, Medicine, Law, and Science, was 
erected at the sole cost of the late Primate Beresford. 

The Library occupies the entire south side of what 
used to be the second quadrangle, 270 feet in length. It 
is entitled by law to a copy of every work published in 
Great Britain, and contains upwards of 200,000 volumes. 
The east end contains a valuable collection of books, 
known as the Fagel Library, consisting of 18,000 volumes. 
Many valuable manuscripts are likewise contained in the 
library, among which there is a Latin copy of the Gospels, 
known as the Book of Kells, and attributed to Saint 
Columba, who lived in the sixth century. 

The Geological Museum and Lecture Rooms. This 
c 



1 8 DUBLIN. 

building stands in the College Park. Its style of architec- 
ture is wholly different from that of the other parts of the 
College, being Lombardo-Yenetian, erected after the designs 
of Messrs. Deane and "Woodward. The building is of 
granite, the dressings and string courses being of Portland 
stone, elaborately carved. The building is quite a museum 
of ornament, so great is the variety and richness of its 
decoration. The entrance hall is extremely beautiful ; and 
the pillars which support the lobbies, being native marble, 
cannot fail to attract the tourist. Another quadrangle is 
situated to the north of the first.* The surrounding ground 
is known as the College Park, which is chiefly used by 
the students as a place of recreation, in which cricket and 
other athletic sports are carried on. 

In College Green is an equestrian statue in lead 
of William III., erected in 1701. The figures are bronzed 
and gilt, presenting rather an imposing appearance. We 
now proceed up Dame Street. 

3. THE CASTLE OF DUBLIN is by no means an 
imposing structure when viewed from the street, wanting 
as it does the stern rocky base of Edinburgh or Stirling 
Castle, and the romantic situation or architectural gran- 
deur of many of the Irish forts. Originally built for the 
defence of the peaceable inhabitants of the town against 
ihe aggressions of their unruly neighbours, nothing seemed 
to have been attended to in its construction but strength. 
Of late a great many alterations have been made to suit it 
to the requirements of the age, so that we cannot now 
judge of its original appearance. Leaving the guides to 
point out the Bedford Tower, the Birmingham Tower, and 
other objects of interest, we will walk into 

The Yiceregal Chapel, a building not without ex- 

♦ The Historical Society's Library, No. 27 Trinity College, is in connec- 
tion with the Oxford and Cambridge Union Club, the members of which 
axe entitled to access to the reading rooms. 

In the Geological Museum there are two fine specimens of the male ana 
female Irish Elk, which have been dug out of the bogs 



ram UASTLE OF DUBLIN. 19 

temal beauties and decorations, thongli plain enougii to be 
passed over by the cursory traveller. The chapel is used 
by the Lord Lieutenant for the time being and his house* 
hold. It is elaborately ornamented with oak carvings. 
Round the gallery are the arms of Lord Lieutenants from 
1173 to 1814 ; while those of a later date are emblazoned 
on either side of the altar. A new handsome pulpit, the 
gift of the late Lord Carlisle, has lately been erected at the 
north-east side, and is entered from one of the pilasters, no 
staircase being visible from the chapel. The groining of the 
roof and capitals of pilasters exhibit rich mouldings in 
stucco : while each corbel springs from a figure of a human 
head. Over the altar window, which is of painted glass, 
representing the Passion, are figures of Faith, Hope, and 
Charity. On the windows and doors outside are heads, 
amounting to the number of one hundred and three. Over 
the east door are St. Patrick and Brian Boroimhe, the 
latter of whom is looked upon as the Wallace of L:eland, 
though to the patriotic he added the character of a usurper. 
The chapel was opened in 1814. The attendant here ex- 
pects a small gratuity. 

The Viceregal Apartments are easily found, and 
readily sheAvn to the visitor — of course on the understand- 
ing that a fee repays the attention of the cicerone. You 
enter under a Doric colonnade, and by the grand staircase, 
into the presence chamber, an ornamented hall containing 
the throne of the representative of monarchy, which, as 
well as the hangings, is richly embroidered with gold. 

St. Patrick's Hall, or the Ball-Eoom, is a spacious 
apartment appropriately ornamented. The empanelled 
ceiling bears in its centre a large allegorical painting of 
George IIL, supported by Justice and Liberty. The other 
two represent on the one side St. Patrick preaching to the 
native Irish, and on the other the submission of the Celtic 
chiefs to Henry II. — a subject by no means palatable to 
the tastes of " Young Ireland." 

The Council Chamber contains portraits, some ol 



20 DUBLIN* 

them admirable, of all the Viceroys since the UnioHj 

beginning with the Marquis Cornwallis in 1800. 

The Private Drawing-Eoom, with its magnificent 
furniture, its mirrors and marble tables, is worthy of a 
visit, as also the Billiard Room, from which a fine view of 
the court-yard is obtained. Various government offices 
are situated within the Castle. 

4. CHRIST'S CHUECH CATHEDRAL, sometimes 
styled the Church of the Holy Trinity. According to 
the " Black Book of Christ's Church," its vaults were 
formed by the Danes before the visit of St. Patrick to 
Ireland, who afterwards celebrated mass in one of them. 
The church, however, as it now stands, is of comparatively 
modern date. It seems to have been first erected in 1038, 
and to have been subsequently enlarged by Lawrence 
O'Toole, who in 1163 changed the canons, originally 
secular, into canons regular of the order of Arras ; then by 
Strongbow and Fitzstephen, and later still by Raymond le 
Gros, who added the choir, steeple, and two smaller 
chapels. John Comyn rebuilt the church in 1190; and 
about 1360 John de St. Paul erected the chancel. This 
'3hurch was made the repository for various relics, and, 
among others, the shrine of St. Cubie, stolen by the people 
Df Dublin from the Welsh. So high was the sanctity of 
this church held, that pilgrims to its shrine enjoyed the 
rights of sanctuary in Dublin during their stay. Many of 
the relics were publicly destroyed in the sixteenth century ; 
and with them St. Patrick's staff, which was committed to 
the flames. It was in this cathedral that the church 
liturgy was first read in Ireland in the English tongue. 
In 1553, by order of Queen Mary, the mass was again per- 
formed in the cathedral, and continued for six years, when 
the reformed style of worship was finally restored. The 
cathedral is built in the form of a cross ; the transept has 
lately undergone rejDair, and looks fresh again ; while the 
choir has also been fitted up with stalls for the dean and 



CATHEDRAL OF ST. PATRICK. 21 

prebendaries. Among tlie monumental tombs in the 
cathedral, that reputed to belong to Earl Strongbow is 
deserving of notice. It represents that powerful warrio/ 
in a recumbent position clothed in mail, with Eva, his 
wife, by his side. The female figure, however, is defaced. 
Some doubts are entertained of the authenticity of the 
figure of Strongbow, it being affirmed that it represents 
the Earl of Desmond, Lord Chief Justice, who was conspired 
against by those who looked with jealousy on his kindness 
to the Irish people, and beheaded at Drogheda in 1467 
It is stated that Sir Henry Sidney had it removed to its 
present position in 1569. Various other monuments of 
superior beauty and interest, if not of like antiquity, will 
attract the visitor, not the least poetic of which is the 
figure of a child on the monument of the late Dr. Abbot 
of Dublin. This place of worship is a great attraction to 
those fond of the display of a cathedral service, which is 
performed every Sunday at eleven o'clock by a full choir. 
The restoration of the building is due to the liberality of 
Henry Koe, distiller, who expended £200,000 upon the work. 

5. CATHEDRAL OF ST. PATRICK.— The venerable 
St. Patrick erected a place of worship near the well in which 
he baptised his converts. This was on the site of the pre- 
sent cathedral. That the original pile existed for a period 
of years is attested by the fact that in 890, being four 
centuries and a half later, Gregory of Scotland, with his 
followers, attended worship in it. The present building 
was begun by Archbishop Comyn in 1190, and was much 
added to and decorated by Archbishop Minot, who held 
the see of Dublin in 1370. This was rendered the more 
necessary by the accidental destruction of a great portion 
of the pile by fire in 1362. The present steeple, built in 
the lancet style, is of this later date. The cathedral is 
cruciform, consisting of nave, transepts, choir, and lady chapeL 
Many monuments decorate the interior of this cathedral. 
In the chancel is a tablet to the memory of the Duke of 



22 



DUBLIN. 



Schomberg, with an inscription by Swift, once Bean of the 
cathedral. The monnment at the western door, to Boyle, 
Earl of Cork, in 1639, is one claiming attention from its 
cumbersome and singular design. It consists of black 
marble, decorated with wood' carving, gilding, and paint- 
ing, and represents the Earl and his lady in recumbent 




positions, surrounded by their children, sixteen in number. 
In close proximity are two marble slabs, which mark the 
resting-places of Dean Swift, and Mrs. Hester Johnston, 
the "Stella" of his poetry. The cathedral has been 



THE GENERAL POST-OFFICE. 23 

entirely restored, since 1860, at tlie sole cost of the late Sir 
B. L. Guinness, the celebrated brewer, who expended up- 
wards of £140,000 upon it. To judge of the magnitude 
of this work, the building must have been seen in its 
former state. We may, however, enumerate the principal 
repairs and renovations carried out by this liberal public 
benefactor. All the walls on the outside have been newly 
faced ; several of the flying buttresses and pinnacles 
rebuilt ; two new porches constructed, and the tower and 
spire thoroughly repaired from the summit to the base- 
ment. In the inside, the crumbling walls of the nave 
and south transept have also been rebuilt, and the ceiling 
groined. The north transept, which was formerly used 
as a parish church, has been rebuilt, and the partitions, 
which separated both transepts and the nave from the 
choir, been removed, thus opening the entire building for 
the purposes of worship. The floor of the whole has been 
excavated, and thorough drainage secured by sewers and 
a deep bed of shingle, over which a beautiful native flagging 
has been laid. A fine organ has been placed at the right 
of the communion-table, and the principal windows filled 
with stained glass. A new pulpit was erected by Sir B. 
L. Guinness as a memorial of his friend the late Dean 
Pakenham. 

The Lady Chapel, which was rebuilt by Dean Pakenham, 
was used by George lY. as chapter-house for the knights 
of St. Patrick. It was formerly used as a church for 
French Protestants. The musical ability of the choir is 
deservedly of high repute. 

6. THE GENERAL POST-OFFICE is a building of 
considerable beauty. Its front presents an imposing portico 
supported by six fluted Ionic columns, and surmounted 
by figures of Hibernia, Mercury, and Fidelity. 

7. NELSON'S MONUMENT (6d. charged for ascend- 
ing), a tall fluted column, 121 feet high (exclusive of the 
statue), stands beside the post-office. The whole erection 



24 DUBLIN. 

cost the sum of £6856, raised bj public subscription 
among tbe Irish admirers of the Trafalgar hero. The 
statue, which stands thirteen feet in height, is a beautiful 
specimen of art, and is from the studio of a native sculptor, 
Thomas Kirk. On a fine clear day the visitor would do 
well to ascend to the safely -railed summit of the monu- 
ment, from which a most extensive and delightful prospect 
may be obtained, embracing a panoramic view of the city 
and surrounding country, from the Moume Mountains'^ in 
the county Down on the north, to the Wicklow Mountains 
on the south ; the plains of Meath and Kildare on the 
west, parted by the Dublin Hills and Dublin Bay, and a 
wide expanse of sea to the eastward. 

8. CUSTOM-HOUSE.— The outline of this structure 
is quadrangular, each side being highly and appropriately 
decorated. The principal front faces the river. In the 
centre is a tetrastyle portico supporting a neat pediment, 
in the tympanum of which is a fine allegorical composition, 
representing Britannia and Hibernia in a marine shell, a 
group of merchantmen approaching, and Neptune driving 
away famine and despair. An attic storey rises behind 
the pediment, and on this are placed, right above the 
Doric columns of the portico, colossal statues of Navigation, 
Wealth, Commerce, and Industry. The wings are con- 
nected with the centre by arcades, and are surmounted by 
the arms of Ireland. We pass round the west side of the 
building to the north face, which has also a portico of four 
columns of the Doric order ; they are, however, elevated 
on a flight of steps, which adds not a little to their beauty. 
The entablature is here decorated with well designed 
figures representative of Europe, Asia, America, and Africa. 
A dome, in the style of that on Greenwich hospital, rises 
above the building to the height of some 120 feet, and 
bears on its summit a statue of Hope, sixteen feet high. 

♦ These are only visible in peculiar states of the atmosphere. 



THE FOUR COURTS. 25 

Tliis extensive building is net entirely occupied with 
excise and customs business, but contains many govern- 
ment and even civil offices of tbe Board of Public Work, 
and of the Poor Law Commission. The building of the 
structure occupied ten years, and with the subsequent en- 
largements and fittings cost fully haK a million of money. 

9. THE FOUE COUETS, so termed from the Courts 
of Queen's Bench, CTiancery, Exchequer, and Common 
Pleas, being situated within one building, form a magni- 
ficent pile of building situated on Inns Quay. The pre- 
sent structure was commenced on the site of a decayed 
Dominican monastery in 1776, by Llr, Cooley, architect, 
who, previous to his death, gave over the task to James 
Gandon, by whom it was finished in 1800, just in time to 
see the union of the two nations. The cost was estimated 
at £200,000. The fagade facing the river is 450 feet in 
length. In the central portion of the building are the foui 
courts, while the two wings contain the various offices con- 
nected with them. A handsome Corinthian portico of six 
columns occupies the centre, and over it rises a finely pro- 
portioned pediment, bearing on its upper angle a colossal 
statue of Moses ; the other angles bear like statues of 
Mercy and Justice ; and on the comers are statues emble- 
matical of Wisdom and Authority. Behind this pediment 
rises the lofty dome, surrounded with columns, with win- 
dows between them. The great hall is circular, and 64 
feet in diameter ; and serves as a common hall, with exits 
to the different special courts. It is illuminated by 
jets of gas, issuing from a torch borne in the hands of a 
colossal statue of Truth. Another statue, that of Sir M. 
O'Loghlen by McDowell, is worthy of notice. The new 
buildings at the end of the four courts are for the accom- 
modation of the Landed Estates Court. 

10. PHCENIX PAEK is the Hyde Park of Dublin. It 
covers an area of upwards of 1750 statute acres, and is 
well planted with timber, though probably inferior in this 
respect to Kensington Gardens. Deer are plentifiil, and, 



26 DUBLIN. 

as in other extensive grounds where they are frequently 

caressed by visitors, very tame and docile. The first object 

which attracts our notice on entering the Park is the 

obelisk to our left — 

The Wellington Testimonial, erected in 1817 by 

his fellow-townsmen of Dublin, to testify their great 

esteem for him as a military commander. The cost of it 

was .£20,000. The form is a quadrangular truncated 

obelisk, and the substance is Wicklow granite. Sunken 

panels are on each side of the pedestal, containing relievos 

in metal, representing military pieces, and — that on the 

south side — the hero himseK, being crowned with laurel. 

Up the four sides of the obelisk are inscribed the battles of the iron Duke. 
Commencing with the west side, we have Conangeel, Poonah, Amednagur, 
Assays, Argaum, Gawilyhctr, Monkaseer ; on the north side, Talavera, 

TUENTES d'OnOR, CiUDAD RODRIGO, B AD AJOS, SaLAMANCA, ViTTORIA, 

Pyrenees ; on the south side, Rolica, Vimiera, Oporto, Bus a go, Torres 
Vedras, Redinha, Sabugal ; on the east, Bidassoa, Nivelle, Nive, 
Adour, Orthes, Tarbes, Toulouse. The sculptures were aU executed by 
Irish artists, and the metal cast from cannon taken in battle. 

The Carlisle Memorial Statue, which is placed in 
the " People's Park," is a successful work of art by Foley. 
It commemorates the Lord-Lieutenancy of the late Lord 
Carlisle, who for six years acted in that capacity. To the 
right, near the entrance of the Park, will be seen the 

Military Hospital, with a fine granite front orna- 
mented with a clock tower and cupola. The situation is 
high and healthy, and the internal arrangements good. A 
little further on, on the same side, is the 

Constabulary Barrack, where each member of the 
corps spends a portion of his time in training in the use of 
arms and other military exercises, subsequent to enlist- 
ment. The building is plain, but ample and commodious. 
Continuing our walk in the Park, we obtain a view of 
the viceregal lodge, the summer residence of the Lord- 
Lieutenant. 

The Zoological Garden (admission one shilling ; on 
Sunday a penny). The ^ound occupied by the garden is 
large, and from its undulating nature affords many advan- 



FIRST WALK. 27 

tages for landscape gardening. Tlie collection of animals, 
though not very extensive, is of an interesting character. 

Wolves, such as formerly infested Ireland, bears, leopards, pumas, 
jaguars, hysenas, bisons, llamas, and various species of deer, are kept here, 
together with an assemblage of those amusing little gentry the monkeys. 
Shortly after entering, the student of ornithology will find a treat in a 
large cage, containing a whole colony of white-tailed eagles. This bird is 
by no means uncommon in Ireland, where it breeds in the neighbourhood 
of the sea or lakes, and feeds on fish or birds. Another bird, a native of 
Ireland, is the moor buzzard, of which a fine specimen is here. The golden 
eagle is frequently seen in the county Kerry, though becoming rarer with 
the progress of civilization ; fine young and adult specimens are in the gar- 
den. It is much more majestic in appearance than the erne or white-tailed 
eagle. In one of the buildings are a number of aquatic vivaria, so dis- 
posed in the wall as to appear to the visitor to be so many animated 
pictures, the plants and rocks forming the landscape, among which the fiah 
are seen disporting themselves. 



FIRST WALK. 

Sackville Street. Post Office ; Nelson's Column. Carlisle Bridge 
View of Custom House and Shipping. Westmoreland Street. BanK 
of Ireland. Trinity College. Statue of William III. Dame Street. 
Commercial Buildings. City Hall. Castle Street. Castle ; Christ s 
Church, Nicholas Street. St. Patrick Street. St. Patrick's 
Cathedral. Kevin Street. Upper Kevin Street. Cuff Street. 
St. Stephen's Green. Statue of George II. in centre. West Side. 
Surgeon's Hall. North Side. United Service Club ; St. Stephen's 
Club ; Palace of Archbishop of Dublin ; University Club ; Shelbourne 
Hotel. East Side. Irish Industrial Museum ; St. Vincent's Hospi- 
tal. Kildare Street. Merrion Row. Birth-place of Wellington. 
Merrion Square. South. Residence of late D. O'ConnelL West. 
Site of Industrial Exhibition of 1853. Lower Merrion Street. West- 
LA.ND Row. St. Andrew's Roman Catholic Chapel. Terminus of 
Kingstown Railway. Great Brunswick Street. Clarence Street. 
Sir John Rogerson's Quay. Sailor's Home. Cross by Ferry to 
— Docks. Custom-House. Beresford Place. Lower Abbey Street. 
Mechanics' Institution. Royal Hibernian Academy. 

THE GENERAL POST OFFICE, in SackviUe Street, 
situated as it is in the centre of the city, is an object likely 
to be visited by all tonrists, whether for business or curio- 
sity, and from it we propose to start (page 23). 



28 DUBLIN. 

Leaving Nelson's Monument (page 23) on our left, 
and turning our face towards tlie river, we walk down 
Sackville Street, admiring its width/ and the splendour 
of its shops, until we reach the site of the new O'Connell 
statue. 

CAELISLE BRIDGE, so caUed in honour of Lord 
Carlisle, who was viceroy at the time when the bridge was 
commenced in 1782. It is the lowermost of the eight 
bridges which span the river here, is built of stone, sup- 
ported on three arches, and surmounted by a handsome 
balustrade. From the centre of this bridge is obtained 
one of the most interesting views within the city. 
Turning round, we look up Sackville Street, with the 
Nelson column rising boldly in the middle of it, with the 
fa9ade of the Post Office on the left and the corner of the 
Rotunda in view ; on the other side the eye may run up 
either Westmoreland or D'Olier Street. Looking up the 
latter, we catch sight of Trinit}^ College, and the ancient 
Parliament House, now the Bank of Ireland. Then turning 
towards the stream, we have on the right the Four Courts, 
and beyond, the Wellington obelisk, situated in Phcenis 
Park ; while on the left, in the distance, is the elegant 
granite-built terminus of the Great Southern and Western 
Railway. The only sights looking down the river are, the 
Custom-House on the left, and the shipping. Continuing 
our walk southwards, we pass through Westmoreland Street, 
at the east side of which there is a statue of Tom Moore. 

THE BANK OF IRELAND (page 14) on right, and 

TRINITY COLLEGE (page 15) on the left. 

Leaving the College, we proceed west through College 
Green and Dame Street, passing the Statue of William 
HI., noticed before. In the latter street, on the right, we 
come upon the 

COMIVIERCIAL BUILDINGS, a granite erection of three 
$toreys, designed by E. Parke in 1796, and finished in 



FIRST WALK. 29 

1799. A handsome room, on the left of the entrance, 
is designated the Chamber of Commerce, and is nsed by 
the merchants of the city. Visitors are freely admitted. 
Further on, on the opposite side, is the 

CITY HALL, with Hogan's statue of O'Connell in front. 
It faces Parliament Street, and is entered by a flight of 
steps, and ornamented by a balustrade. The pediment is 
supported by six well-proportioned columns and pilasters. 
The western front faces Castle Street, and is in the same 
style as the northern. The east side, however, is without 
columns, while a dome rises from the roof. The interior 
is fitted up in a very superior style. Fluted columns sup- 
port a roof in the shape of a cylindrical lantern, which 
gives light and grace to the whole. The hall contains a 
celebrated statue in marble of Grattan, by Chantrey, with 
the appropriate inscription, 

FILIO 

OPTIMO CARISSIMO 

HENRICO GRATTAN 

PATRIA 

NGN INGRATA 

1829. 

besides others of George III. by Van Nost, and Thomas 
Drummond, once chief secretary to Ireland, by Hogan, a 
notable Irish sculptor. Turning into Castle Street, we at 
once reach the gates of the 

CASTLE OF DUBLIN (page 18). 

Continuing our walk along Castle Street and Christ 
Church Place, we come to 

CHEIST'S CHTJECH (page 20), on right. 

Leaving this building, we walk through Nicholas Street 
to St. Patrick's, where, surrounded by wretched buildings, 
low huxter-shops, and stalls with putrid eels, stands the 
ancient 

CATHEDKAL OF ST. PATEICK (page 22), on left. 



30 DUBLIN. 

Passing up Kevin Street, Upper and Lower, we may 
turn to the left, a little way into Aungier Street, where at 
No. 12 we find a queer-looking old house, rejoicing in the 
honour of being the birth-place of Moore. In this house 
the Bard of Erin was born on the 28th of May 1780. Kis 
first published production was a sonnet, written in his 
fourteenth year, addressed to his schoolmaster Mr. Samuel 
White. White was also the teacher of Sheridan. Taking 
away with us a mental photograph of the classical grocery 
establishment^ let us return to Kevin Street and continue 
our walk up Cuffe Street until we enter, at its south-west 
corner, 

STEPHEN'S GEEEN, a square laid out in grass plots 
and clusters of trees and shrubs. The houses surrounding 
it are among the finest in the city. Turning to the left 
we proceed half-way along the west side, and there meet 

The Eoyal College of Surgeons, No. 123, a decorated 
building erected in 1806-1825, the architects being 
E. Parkes and W. Murray. On the pediments are statues 
of Minerva, Hygeia, and Esculapius. The Museum is the 
chief attraction here, and to it admission may be gained by 
any respectable visitor, reserving to himself the liberty of 
presenting a gratuity or not to the porter. The first room 
of the museum contains a good osteological collection, in- 
cluding skeletons of elephants, deer, bears, elk, dogs, mon- 
keys, etc. A simple group in one of the lower cases will 
attract attention from its singularity, and excite a little 
sympathy where it would least be expected. Many years 
ago an Italian visited Dublin as an itinerant musician, 
accompanied by a greyhound and a monkey, whose per- 
formances soon became the wonder of the town. The mon- 
key would smoke a pipe, beat a drum, or ride a steeple- 
chase on the back of his companion. But the dog at length 
died, and poor jacko took it so much to heart, that he 
would mount no other charger, nor would he even console 
himseK with a whiff of tobacco, but died in the course of 



FIRST WALK. 31 

tliree days after the demise of his canine friend. Both feU 
into the hands of the College of Surgeons, and their skele- 
tons now form the equestrian group alluded to. A gallery 
of this room contains specimens only interesting to the 
student of comparative anatomy. Notice may, however, 
be called to a stuffed Bengal tiger at the foot of the stairs, 
the ground colour of which is a rich deep brown. Attached 
to this college are lecture and demonstrating rooms, and 
private museums for the benefit only of students. The 
course of study prescribed is liberal, and the examinations 
rigid."^ The Board Room has a chastely-moulded roof, 
ample windows, and contains portraits of Drs. Eennie, 
Hawthorn, and Collis. Prom the windows a view of the 
Green is obtained, with an equestrian 

Statue of George II. in its centre, the work of Van 
Nost. Turning to the south side of the square, we pass 
the Catholic University and its chapel, a brick -building 
■ — the palace of the Archbishop of Dublin — and the Shel- 
bourne Hotel. A statue to the late Earl of Eglinton, formerly 
Lord-Lieutenant of Ireland, is erected within the railings of 
this side of the square. On the east side, No. 51, is 

The Eoyal College of Science, an institution for the 
instruction of teachers and others in industrial science. 
The building contains a library and an interesting museum. 
A fine series of Irish marble panels ornaments the entrance 
hall ; while collections of building stones, chiefly Irish, 
are preserved in cases in the rooms, as well as articles 
used in the manufacture of pottery, colours, metallic sub- 
stances, and textile fabrics. The stages of manufacture 
are illustrated by characteristic specimens. 

St. Vincent's Hospital, Nos. 56 and 57, is an iastitu- 
tion of a most estimable kind, carried on by the Sisters of 
Charity. 

We now turn up Earlsfort Terrace, and make for 

* The Albert Hall, containing a bust of the late Prince, is situate behind 
the building. 



32 DUBLIN. 

DUBLIN EXHIBITION PALACE 

AND 

WINTER GARDEN. 
{Earlsfort Terrace') 

The Exhibition Palace, purchased by Sir Arthur and 
Mr. E. C. Gninness, in order to devote it to the public 
benefit, is composed of an iron and glass, and a permanent 
building containing a large concert-hall to accommodate 
3000 persons, the entire end of which opens into the glass 
building, affording unlimited accommodation. There is also 
a smaller concert-hall seated for 1500 persons ; a lecture- 
hall to hold 500 ; a practice-room for a large orchestra ; 
The dining-room is 107 feet in length by 30 feet in width ; 
and there are also extensive picture-galleries, constructed, 
on the most improved principle. 

The Grand Entrance is in the centre of the building, 
approached from Earlsfort Terrace. The hall, of consider- 
able size, which has its floor laid with encaustic tiles, forms 
a permanent sculpture court. On entering, the cascade at the 
end of the pleasure-gardens is seen in the distance from the 
hall, which, with its Caen stone columns with carved capitals, 
and those of the picture-gallery, form a very effective 
design. In the centre of the glass building is an elegant 
fountain with groups of figures, representing Leinster, 
Munster, Ulster, and Connaught. At the southern end is 
a picturesque grotto fountain, surmounted by a figure of 
Erin, and most natural in its construction, beautifully 
covered with plants of varied description. The main glass 
building has been tastefully planted and laid out with beds 
for flowers. There is a wide gallery continued all round, 
1094 feet in length, and balcony overlooking the terrace 
and pleasure grounds. This portion of the building, and 
the Leinster Hall, which forms a wing, are devoted to the 
exhibition of manufactures, etc. In the permanent build- 



DUBLIN INDUSTRIAL EXHIi 




-t-H-H-^ 



CARRIAGE 



EA>(tl.S FORT 



ION PALACE— GROUND PLAN. 




FIRST WALKr 33 

ing a Loan Musenm of Art Treasures is established on a 
system similar to that of South Kensington, comprising — 
ancient and modern paintings, sculpture, curiosities, and 
articles of artistic and historic interest ; it is supported by 
a most influential committee under the presidency of the 
Duke of Leinster, and supplies a desideratum long felt in 
Ireland. 

It was here that the Dublin Exhibition of 1872, of arts, 
industries, and manufactures took place, occupying the 
whole of this building, and contained, besides the Loan 
Museum, a Ncitional Portrait Gallery, comprising portraits 
of distinguished persons, either Irish by birth or connected 
with the public transactions of Ireland. The success 
achieved by the exhibition was very great, and it has no 
doubt had a most beneficial effect upon Irish art and 
manufacture. The attendance in comparison to the 
popidation, was, by far, greater than that of the London 
International Exhibition. 

The ornamental Pleasure Grounds have been laid out 
in raised and sunk terraces. There are three main ave- 
nues, serpentine avenues, archery grounds, a maze, and a 
cascade waterfall, and fountains with figure groups. The 
grounds extend to about 15 acres, and are planted with 
trees and shrubs of every description. 

Besides the permanent exhibition of arts and manufac- 
tures, occasional flower-shows, etc., and at intervals grand 
musical entertainments of a high class, both vocal and instru- 
mental, are held in the building. The corridors through- 
out the building are exceedingly spacious, and encircle the 
concert-halls, aflbrding easy access to any part. The build- 
ing is open daily, and on certain evenings of the week -, 
the ordinary admission is one shilling. 

The building is under the management of Sir Edward 
Lee, director, and Alfred Emden, Esq., secretary. 

In front of the building there is a colonnade of consider- 
able length, enabling a number of carriages to discharge 
and take up at the same time. 

D 



.34 DUBLIN. 

Tliere are refreshment-rooms, together with kitchen and 
all requisite conveniences. 

If the visitor should now wish to ])roceed to the Eoyai 
Society buildings, he will, by going round Stephen's 
Green, enter 

KiLDAKE Street. — On proceeding down this street, a 
quadrangle first presents itself, at one side of which is the 
(^.ntrance through an iron gateway into the premises of the 
Church Education Society. 

Proceeding further down the street we arrive at a rustic 
granite gateway, leading into the premises of the 

EoYAL Dublin Society. — This Society, which is the 
oldest of the kind in the United Kingdom, was founded in 
1731, and incorporated by charter of Geo. 11. in 1746. 

The premises of the Society, which are situate between 
Kildare Street and the west side of Merrion Square, were 
purchased in the year 1815 from the Duke of Leinster. 

The spacious hall contains on the left a colossal statue 
of George IV. by Behnes, and several busts of distinguished 
persons, placed on pillars of Irish marble. 

Passing to the left, tlie Society's board-room is entered Tho Chair is 
remarkable as being that of tlie Irish House of Commons, slightly altered 
to make it more suitable for the Society's purposes. Ascending the stair- 
case, the library, which occupies not only the large room first entered, but 
the suit'=) of six rooms opening from it, contains about 40,000 volumes of 
scientific and literary works—fiction being excluded. Persons are readily 
admitted as readers on being introduced by a member. The library is 
open daily from 11 to 5 o'clock, and on evenings of Monday, Wednesday, 
and Friday, from 7 to half-past 9 o'clock. 

The visitor returning to the courtyard will find under the northern 
piazza the entrance to the School of Art, and Gallery of Casts and 
Statues. 

Leaving the schools, the visitor by crossing to the large gateway oppo- 
site, may enter a spacious hall for the accommodation of the agricultural 
shows, for which the society's premises are admirably adapted. Of these 
shows, the society holds two annually, one at spring, principally of breeding 
stock, the other at Christmas, of fat stock and farm produce. This haU is 
occasionally used for other exhibitions, such as of art and manufactures. 
Other portions of the premises worthy of a visit are the Agricultural 
Museum and Museum of Natural History. Itis necessary, however, to remind 
visitors that the Museum is free to the public on Mondays, Wedneadaya^ 



FIRST WALK. 35 

and Fridays. On Tuesdays and Saturdays tlie admission is sixpence. The 
Xational Memorial Statue of the late Prince Consort by Foley, erected 
in 1872, stands on the Society's lawn, which is laid out as an ornamental 
dower-garden. 

King and Queen's College of Physicians is on the 
same side of the street, built in the Palladian style of archi- 
tecture, with a fine Hall, 60 by 40 feet, containing a statue of 
Sir Henry Marsh, by Foley. There is an excellent library. 

The Kildare Street Club is at the termination of th*^. 
street, and is an elegant building in the Lombardo- Vene- 
tian style. 

IVIERRION EOW and Merrion Street. The visitor 
will pause at the house No. 24, now used as the office of 
the Ecclesiastic Commissioners for Ireland, but interesting 
to us as The Birth-Place of Wellington. 

Having entered Merrion Square, we walk on the south 
side so far as the house No. 30, for sometime the residence 
of Ireland's great political leader, Dan O'Connell. 

THE NATIONAL GALLERY, with a statue of Dargan 
in front, stands on the north side of Leinster Lawn, oppo- 
site to the Museum of Natural History, with which, in 
external design, it corresponds. The building, which is 
still unfinished, has been erected at a cost of upwards 
of ^26,000, £5000 of which was raised by public sub- 
scription as a testimonial to Mr. William Dargan in 
commemoration of his spirited liberality in organising 
the Dublin Exhibition of 1853. On entering the building 
the visitor passes first into a very handsome room devoted 
to the exhibition of statuary, at the further end of which 
are two winding staircases leading to the upper apartment 
intended for the Picture Gallery. From this room the 
visitor may ascend by two flights to smaller rooms in- 
tended for additional picture galleries. The interior of the 
building is according to the design of the late Captain 
Fowke, E.E., the architect of the London International 
Exhibition of 1 8 6 2. Passing on to Westland Eow we observe 



ST. ANDREW'S EOMAN CATHOLIC CHAPEL, on 
the right, a Doric building in the style of the Acropolis 
at Athens, designed by James Boulgai*, and erected in 
1832-34 at an expense of <£l 3,000. The building is in 
the form of a cross. On the tympanum, which is sup- 
ported by two columns and four pilasters, is a fine piece 
of sculpture, representing the Scottish saint and cross. 
Over the tabernacle, in the interior, is a group, embodying 
the Transfiguration, from the chisel of the justly celebrated 
Hogan. 

THE TERMINUS of the KINGSTOWN RAILWAY, 
in the immediate vicinity, is a plain structure. From 
it the traveller departs for England or the watering- 
places on the south of Dublin Bay. Our route here turns 
to the right and leads us along Great Brunswick Street, 
then down Clarence Street, on the left, till we arrive at the 
river side at 

SIR JOHN ROGERSON'S QUAY, the view from which 
is highly admired. It is the reverse of that obtained 
from Carlisle Bridge, having the shipping in the fore- 
ground, and the Custom-House to our left, peering in the 
distance through a forest of masts. On the right, the eye 
wanders down the course of the river, past the lighthouse, 
until it expands into a wide bay, and becomes lost in the 
horizon. Retracing our steps towards the centre of the 
city, though by a different route, we shall avail ourselves 
of the ferry-boat, and cross the river close by 

THE DOCKS, situated at the east side of the Custom- 
House. They are of tolerable size, and well planned. 
The basins are built entirely of Wicklow granite. The 
Quay on which they are situated is the north wall, the 
spot from which most of the English and Scottish steamers 
start, and where may be seen on busy days all manners 
and kinds of merchandise, including rags, cattle, hogsheads, 
pigs, and vegetables, all waiting for shipment. A little 
further west is 



FIRST WALK. 37 

THE CUSTOM-HOUSE (page 24). 

We are now in Beresford Place, and a sharp turn brings 
ns to Lower Abbey Street, where we find two most inte- 
resting buildings on the left. 

MECHANICS' INSTITUTION, a plain but commo* 
dious structure, containing a good library and reading- 
room, with a spacious lecture-hall, besides several class- 
rooms. Lectures are occasionally delivered, and classes for 
languages, music, and drawing, are open to members and 
others at very cheap rates. The reading-room is open 
every week-day from 9 a.m. to 11 p.m., and on Sundays 
from 2 P.M. Strangers may avail themselves of the oppor- 
tunity of consulting the Lish or English newspapers, on 
payment of one penny. The Institute was founded in 
1837, and since that period has jjrogressed considerably. 

THE EOYAL HIBERNIAN ACADEMY, on the same 

side of the street, is a plain Doric structure, erected 
in 1824 for the promotion of the fine arts. In 1823 the 
academy had received a royal charter for the study of 
painting, sculpture, and architecture. The exhibition 
usually opens in May, and closes in the latter end of July, 
the charge being one shilling. In 1853, however, it was 
open so late as the end of October, at a charge of sixpence 
through the day ; and in the evening, for the benefit of 
the working classes, at one penny. The plain building 
nearly opposite is Union Chapel, belongiag to the Presby- 
terian body. We have now re-entered Sackville Street, 
with the Post-Office to the right. 



38 DUBLIN. 



SECOND WALK 

Po97-Okpice. Proceed tip Sackville Street. Earl Street. Metropolitan 
Roman Catholic Chapel. Return to Sackville Street. Rotunda; 
Rutland Square. Great Britain Street. Newgate. Bolton Street. 
Henrietta Street. Queen's Inns. King Street. Coleraine Street. 
Linen Hall. Constitution Hill. Terminus of Galway Railway. 
North Union Workhouse. Grange Gorman Lane. Richmond Peni' 
tentiary. Gravel Walks. Blue Coat School. Barrack Street. 
Barracks. Parkgate Street. Enter Phoenix Park. Returning, cross 
King's Bridge. Terminus of Cork and Killamey Railway ; Steevens' 
Lane. Steevens' HospitaL Bow Lane. Royal Hospital Military 
Road to Barrack Bridge ; Cross to EUis' Quay ; Queen's, Bridge. 
Arran Quay. Whitworth Bridge. Four Courts ; Richmond Bridge. 
Ormand Quay. Essex Bridge ; Wellington Bridge. Bachelor's 
Walk. Carlisle Bridge. Cross to Burgh Quay, Com Exchange; 
Conciliation Hall. 

THE GENERAL POST-OFFICE must again be our 
starting-point ; but on this occasion, instead of directing 
our course to the soutb, we turn our backs upon the river 
and proceed northwards. First, however, let us turn to 
the right along Earl Street, to the 

METROPOLITAN ROIVIAN CATHOLIC CHAPEL, 
generally termed the Church of the Conception. The 
position of the structure is bad, hemmed in, as it unfortu- 
nately is, by neighbouring edifices of a different class. 
The design is Grecian, and is the combined effort of several 
illustrious architects. The principal front is ornamented 
by a hexastyle portico of the Doric order. Upon the apex 
of the pediment stands a statue of the Virgin, of colossal 
size ; and on the extremities are similar effigies of St. 
Patrick and St. Laurence O'Toole. The decorations of the 
interior are very chaste ; but the chief attraction is a 
relievo in stucco of the Ascension, placed over the altar in 
the ceiling. In an aisle on the right, a beautiful monu- 
ment to the late pious and liberal-minded Roman Catholic 
Bishop of Dublin, Dr. Murray, has been erected. Return- 
ing to Sackville Street, we again face the north, and reach 
the 



SECOND WALK. 39 

ROTUNDA, at the head of the street. This peculiar- 
looking building is situated at the corner of Rutland 
Square, and consists of a series of rooms used for public 
meetings, Avith a suite of assembly-rooms, and all profits 
go to support the adjoining Lying-in Hospital. This 
institution was erected in 1751-57 by Dr. Mosse, and 
affords relief to upwards of 2000 patients yearly. Govern- 
ment grants £500 annually to the institution. The garden 
is open during the summer, and forms a favourite pro- 
menade, being enlivened with a military band. 

Near the Rotimda are two excellent new Gothic churches 
— a Presbyterian Chapel (the gift of Mr. Findlater), and 
a Catholic Chapel in Dominick Street. 

We now turn to the left, down Britain Street, and arrive 
at a dark gloomy building named 

NEWGATE, the scene of poor Lord Fitzgerald's death 
in 1798, where in the same year the barristers Henr;y 
and John Sheares, with John M^Cann, secretary to the 
Leinster Committee of United Irishmen, and W. ]\L 
Byrne, were all executed for high treason. These are 
gloomy memories, but we hope that Irishmen will forget 
the bitter feelings towards England which are associated 
with them, as assuredly no man with a kindly spirit could 
exult in them. Newgate is not now used as a prison. 
Let us then leave the place, by passing up Green Street, 
Bolton Street, and Henrietta Street, as far as 

THE KING'S INNS, a building at once beautiful 
and imposing. The front is composed of a centre and 
two wings ; a pediment bears the royal arms. An octa- 
gonal cupola surmounts the whole. The dining-hall is 
well worthy of notice, being ornamented with several 
statues and paintings, among which are portraits of Lord 
Avonmore and Lord Chancellor Manners. The building 
contains various courts and offices. The library is a new 
building, erected in 1827, at a cost of £20,000, Retracing 



^0 DUBLIN. 

our stejis down Henrietta Street, we reach the county 
militia quarters, formerly occupied by. the commissioners 
of encumbered estates, whose business was removed to, and 
is now conducted at the Four Courts. Bolton Street, ^^^'ti 
Street, and Coleraine Street, must next be paced, in the 
latter of which is situated 

THE LINEN HALL, a pretty extensive range of 
buildings, where, when the linen trade flourished in 
Ireland, crowds of purchasers flocked from every corner of 
Europe. The cotton trade of Manchester has materially 
injured this branch of Irish industry, though some hopes 
of its ultimate revival have been entertained. The building 
consists of six spacious courts, with store-houses, the total 
number of apartments being 557. Passing along Constitu- 
tion Hill we arrive at the 

BEOADSTONE TEEMINUS of the Galway or 
Midland Great AYestern Kailwat. The building is 
composed of granite, and is a combination of the Grecian 
and Egyptian styles of architecture. The view of 
the city from this point is very fine, especially in a 
clear day, when the Wicklow Mountains are distinctly 
seen in the distance. 

THE NOETH UNION WOEKHOUSE is close at 
hand to the left. This building affords house-room for 
2300 paupers ; it originally formed part of the House ol 
Industry, but in 1840 was converted into its present use. 
Adjoining it are hospitals for lunatic, fever, chronic, and 
other patients. The Eichmond Lunatic Asylum was 
erected by the public at a cost of £50,000, and being 
finished in 1815, during the Lieutenancy of the Duke of 
Eichmond, his title was given to the building. It consists 
of 210 ceUs, with 8 rooms for convalescents ; and has its 
fuE complement of nurses and medical attendants. This 
hospital is entirely for the benefit of paupers. A farm is 
attached to the asylum, on which light employment w 



SECOND WALK. 41 

found for those qualified for it. In Grange Gorman Lan^ 
IS situated the 

EICHMOND FEMALE PENITENTLA.EY a plain but 
substantial building, constructed of mountain limestone 
and granite. This highly praiseworthy and beneficial 
institution is conducted in a most becoming manner, every 
attention being given to the moral training of its penitent 
inhabitants. Nor are their intellectual faculties allowed 
to remain in that deep sleep which destitution and crime 
l]ave settled upon them. Useful branches of education 
are taught, together with some trade or occupation, which 
may be the means of allowing them to earn an honest 
livelihood on their departure from this sanctuary. Wend* 
ing our way to the river side through the Gravel Walk, 
we come upon what seems to be an unfinished building — 

THE BLUE COAT SCHOOL, founded in the time of 
Charles IL, who gave it a charter, for the support and 
education of the sons and grandsons of decayed freemen of 
the city. It was originally designed, however, to embrace a 
\vider sphere of charity. The aged poor were intended to be 
relieved, but th.e funds of the institution were inadequate. 
The building, as it now stands, was begun in 1 773, when the 
Earl of Harcourt laid the foundation stone. The dome is 
yet unfiinished, being intended to rise 140 feet in height. The 
edifice consists of a middle portion with two wings. Tlie 
front is 360 feet in length. The central portion of the 
building is appropriated to the conductors of the hospital, 
the south wing is the school-room, and the north ^ving the 
chapel. Behind are buildings used as a dining-hall, and 
sleeping apartments for the boys, and offices. The income 
of the hospital is about £4000 annually. We now enter 
Barrack Street, running parallel with the river, and soon 
discover the esplanade in front of the 

EGYAL BAEEACK, an estabHshment of greater ex- 
tent than any usually met with, providing, as it does, 



42 DUBLIN. 

ample acconunodation for one horse and two foot regi- 
ments. It is bnilt on rising ground,^ and comprises five 
large squares. Immediately behind the barrack is Arbour 
Hill, the military hospital for the east of Ireland, and the 
Old Provost Prison, in which Theobald Wolfe Tone com- 
mitted suicide. Parkgate Street is a continuation of 
Barrack Street, and, as its name implies, leads the visitor 
to the gate of the celebrated 

PHGENIX PAEK (page 25). 

Eeturning from this fashionable resort, we may cross 

KING'S BKIDGE.— This bridge was so named in 
honour of the visit of George lY. to Dublin in 1821 ; it 
was not commenced, however, until 1827. The span is of 
iron, 120 feet in length, with abutments of granite, and 
the whole presents a truly graceful appearance. It was 
erected by public subscription, at a cost of <£ 13,000. The 
design is by Pap worth. 

THE TERMINUS OF THE CORK AND KIL- 
IjARNEY railway, styled the Great Southern and 
Western Railway, next meets us. This is undoubtedly 
an ornament to the city, and superior in style to most of 
the railway termini in Ireland. The front is formed of 
beautifully hewn granite, commencing at the base with the 
Tuscan order, corniced and rusticated ; then eight Corin- 
thian columns and two pilasters rise above, with well 
executed windows between them ; the pediments of which 
are alternately angular and arched. Surmounting these 
are a balustrade and cornice. Two wings project, one at 
either side, rising to the height of the first storey, and 
bearing clock-towers with cupolas. The entire width of 
the front is 213 feet. The internal arrangements of the 
terminus are admirable. The passenger shed occupies two 
and a half English acres of ground, is covered by a light 
iron roof, and contains comfortable ss^aiting rooms and 
other offices. The Act of Parliament for the construction 



SECOND WALK. 43 

of this railway was passed in 1844. The chief engineer 
is Sir John M^NeilL We now pass through Steevens* 
Lane, and approach 

STEEVENS' HOSPITAL, endowed by Dr. R. Steevens, 
who died in 1710. The building was commenced 
in 1720, and opened for patients in 1733. The funds 
of the hospital amoimt annually to about £2200, be- 
sides a grant from Government. It is capable of accom- 
modating about three hundred inmates, who are classified 
according to age, sex, and the nature of their complaints. 
The erection is very plain, and contains, besides ward-rooms, 
a chapel, a library, and committee-rooms. We next enter 
Bow Lane, turning sharply to the right, and come in 
sight of 

THE ROYAL HOSPITAL, for disabled or super- 
annuated soldiers. It is a quadrangular mass of buildings, 
enclosing a grass plot. Three sides of the quadrangle 
present a piazza on the ground storey, on which the veteran 
inhabitants can take open air exercise, even in wet weather. 
The northern is the principal front, and contains the 
masters' apartments. The chapel is on the eastern front, 
and has a stained-glass window, originally belonging to the 
Hospitallers' chapel. Altogether, the interior decorations 
of the chapel are of a superior caste, exhibiting elaborate 
carvings in wood, and modellings in plaster. The hospital 
was founded in 1679 by Charles II., who granted sixty- 
four acres of ground for the purpose, and appointed sixpence 
in the pound to be deducted from the pay of all military 
men, " towards the building of said hospital, the same to 
be continued until by some other way, it shall be provided 
with a sufficient revenue of land for support of it." In 
1794, Parliament interfered and granted a sum for the 
maintenance of the hospital. The erection, including a 
garden, infirmary, churchyard, etc., cost upwards of 
.£23,000. It was originally intended to afi'ord shelter to 
three hundred inmates, being the proportion of one to 



4 i DUBLIN. 

twenty-five of the Irish, soldiery. It may be interesting 
to know, that the present hospital stands on the site of 
the ancient priory of Kilmainham, at one time belonging 
to the Hospitallers, or Knights of St. John of Jerusalem. 
Turning again to the right, after a short walk, we continue 
in a direction parallel to the railway, until we enter the 
military road, and down Watling Street, to 

BAERACK BEIDGE, rejoicing occasionally in tlie 
ominous title of Bloody Bridge. Originally built of wood 
in 1670, it was shortly after the scene of one of the 
apprentice riots, by no means uncommon at that period, 
in which four of the disturbers of the peace were killed. 
The present structure is quite new, having been commenced 
in 1858. We turn to the right, and continue down Ellis 
Quay, till we come to the next in order — 

QUEEN'S BRIDGE, so named in honour of Queen 
Charlotte. It is built of stone, is 140 feet long, by 40 
feet in mdth. It was opened in 1768. We now walk 
along Arran Quay to. 

WHITWORTH BRIDGE, one of the finest in Dublin. 
From the middle of it we have a good view, embracing, 
in the left foreground, the magnificent fa9ade of 

THE FOUR COURTS OF DUBLIN (page 25). 

RICHMOND BRIDGE, erected on the site of Old 
Ormond Bridge, which spanned the river from 1428 till 
it was swept away by a flood in 1802, is next seen. It 
was re-erected between 1813-16, and cost the sum of 
^25,000. It consists of three arches, the key-stones of 
which are ornamented with colossal heads. The length is 
220 feet and width 52 feet. Ormond Quay must next be 
traversed, passing 

ESSEX BRIDGE, a miniature copy of Westmiaster 
Bridge, with fine arches, a balustrade, and cornice, opened 
in 1755. This is the longest bridge in Dublin, being 250 
feet long bv 51 wide. 



SECOND WALK. 45 

WELLINGTON or THE METAL BELDGE, consists 
of a single arch, tlie segment of an ellipse, 240 x 12 
feet. The stmctiire is of iron, and has a light elegant 
appearance. It was opened in 1816, and received its 
name in honour of the bright achievements of the Iron 
Duke at Waterloo. By Bachelor's Walk we again reach 
Carlisle Bridge, and may either return homewards, or again 
cross the Liffey, and turning to the left down Burgh Quay, 
among all the bustle and confusion of lading and unlad- 
ing, to 

THE CORN EXCHANGE, the meeting-place of the 
National Council in 1832, and the Eepeal Association 
at a later period. It was erected in 1816 ; the interior is 
130 feet in length, and contains movable stalls for ex- 
hibiting samples of com. The next building, now lost in 
the dust of its present occupation, is the once famous 

CONCILIATION HALL, the scene of the great 
O'Connell triumphs. On the ceiling of the upper loft is 
still preserved the gilded harp and shamrock of Ireland. 
The tourist need hardly be informed that the building, 
which some years ago echoed with the wild and wily elo- 
quence of the liberator, is now a corn-store. 

Again we are within sight of the starting-point. Our 
street walk has barely amounted to five miles, but the toil 
of gazing on handsome buildings, stretching our necks to 
read inscriptions, and sundry other pieces of labour, may 
be fairly said to double it. We have now seen absolutely 
everything in the city ; this is not meant to imply that 
there is nothing else at all worthy of notice, but that we 
have pointed out the lions. The patient student of city 
life, or city architecture, might find employment for many 
days. By way of an evening amusement, a drive in the 
Park woidd afford a pleasant recreation ; or, if otherwise 
disposed, the Theatre may supply the want. The Theatre 
Royal is in Hawkins Street : it is well fitted up, and the 
company is generally good. The Queen's Theatre is situated 
in Brunswick Street, and the Gaiety in South King Street. 



46 ©UBUN. 

THIRD WALK. 
TO CLOXDALKIN. 

Post Office. Henry Street. Mary Street. St. Mary's Church. Mary's 
Lane. Church Street. St. Michan's Chui'ch. Whitworth Bridgb. 
Cross Brtt>ge Street. St. Audoen's Roman Catholic Chapel. New 
Row. Francis Street. St. Nicholas' Roman Catholic Chapel. Coombe 
Street. Weavers' Hall. John Street. Summer Street. School 
Street. Grand Canal Harbour. Clondalkin. Monastery. Roc7nj> 
Tower. Church. 
Return by road, passing Kilmainham Jail and Royal Hospital, to 

Phoenix Park; or by rail to Kingsbridge Station. Fares — Is., 9d., and 4d. 

Cars entire distance about 3s. ; or by time at Is. per hour. 

We liave already, in the course of our two walks through 
the city and its suburbs, visited ■ almost every building of 
note and place of resort within its precincts ; yet, as w(i 
have to go to Clondalkin, we may as well have a few notes 
to take with us by the way. If time be precious, a six 
penny drive to the Kingsbridge Station, and a four miles' 
run per rail, will be a saving ; but if we have leisure and 
inclination for a w^alk, it may be interesting to take the 
Liberties of DubKn on our way. Suppose then, that from 
our old starting-place in Sackville Street, we turn round 
into Henry Street to our left, and pursue an even course 
through it into Mary Street, to 

ST. MAKY'S CHUECH, an old-fashioned but com- 
modious church, built in 1697. It has a front ornamented 
with Ionic columns, and is crowned by a bell-tower. The 
east window is a good specimen of glass-painting, repre- 
senting the Ascension in the centre, with the Four Evan- 
gelists in the other compartments. Unfortunately it is 
but a wreck of what it once was. In 1852, on an old city 
member, !Mr. John Keynolds, being thrown out, the mob 
set to work with stones to demolish the windows of several 
of the churches in town, and this one suffered severely 
among the rest. Mary's Lane is now entered, and turning 
from it to the left, into Church Street, find on our right 
hand the ancient 



THIRD WALK. 47 

ST. MICHAN'S CHUECH, founded in 1095 by the 
pious Dane wliose name it bears. The present build- 
ing does not, however, date so far back, having been 
erected on the site of an old one in 1676. Very few 
portions of the building can even claim this antiquity, so 
many have been the alterations and improvements made 
on it. The square tower, however, is decidedly venerable. 
The vaults of the chapel possess the peculiar property of 
preserving the bodies intrusted to them in a perfectly un- 
decomposed state, resembling in this respect the Egyptian 
mummy pits. Dryness, one great essential to the preserve - 
ing of animal matter, is comj^lete here. But at one time, 
owing, it is said, to the night visits of a rascally sexton, 
for the purpose of stealing away the lead coffins from the 
dead, the damp night air entered, and bade fair to play 
havoc with the mummies. 

There is a storj^ told of his releasing the boQy J* a lady from its coflSn, 
which, however, looked him fiercely in the face with a pair of vengeful eyes, 
and so terrified him, that he left his lantern and ran home half dead witli 
fright ; the lady is said to have taken advantage of the light, and to have 
walked quietly to her own home, where for years she lived a happy life ! 
Many readers have heard this story repeated in connection with some place 
or another, and have, no doubt, set it down as very diihious ; but don't let 
him indulge sceptical notions, or if he does, let him by no means express 
them before the present sexton, or indeed in Dublin at all. 

Here rest the weary bodies of not a few individuals 
illustrious in their day, i, e., at the time of the rebellion 
some seventy years ago. The brothers Sheares, Ohver 
Bond, Dr. Charles Lucas, and the Eev. W. Jackson, who 
acted as agent in France for the United Irishmen, and who 
" sunk in the dock," from the effects of poison, before the 
bench could pronounce sentence upon him. We have 
again to reach the river, and, crossing it by Whitworth 
Bridge, enter Bridge Street, and view 

ST. AUDOEN'S Eoman Catholic Chapel, an old 
structure, indeed one of the oldest chapels in Dublin. It 
is not now used, the new Chapel in High Street having 
superseded it. Those interested in the past turmoils of 



48 DUBLIN. 

the nation will peril aps spare a moment for rellection »« 
they contemplate tlie house in this street now occupied bj 
Messrs. Vance and Beers. In this house, on the 12th 
March 1798, the committee of the United Irishmen of the 
Leinster district, with poor Emmett at their head, were 
convened for rebellious purposes, when the law, aided by 
a military force, took them into custody, at the same time 
laying hold of their papers. In the castle, Emmett, 
M'Nevin, M^Cormick, Jackson, and Dillon, were examined 
by the Privy Comicil, the result of which was, that war- 
rants were issued for the apprehension of Lord Edward 
Fitzgerald and Councillor Sampson. The volunteer corps, 
meanwhile, paraded the streets night and day. Entering 
New Eow, and through it to Francis Street, we approach 

ST. NICHOLAS' Eoman Catholic Chapel, which 
stands on the site of the ancient monastery of St. Francis. 
The portico consists of four Ionic columns. The Rev. Dr. 
Flanagan erected at his own expense the square towei 
w^hich is ornamented with Corinthian pilasters. The inte- 
rior is richly decorated. Over the side altars are figures 
by Hogan of St. Luke and St. Nicholas ; groups also repre- 
sent the Virgin with the body of Christ, the baptism of our 
Saviour, and the scene of his first miracle at Cana. li 
still interested in historical affairs, a turn into Thomas' 
Street will not occupy much time, and in the house No. 
151, then occupied by a person known as " Marphy, the 
feather-man," Lord Fitzgerald was taken, but in" the cap- 
ture received his death- wound at the hand of Major Sirr. 
He expired in Newgate in a state of frenzy, after about 
four weeks' suffering. In the same street Lord Kilwarden 
was assaulted by a mob, furious with the memory of 
Emmett's fate, and dragged, along with his nephew, from 
his carriage. His nephew was brutally murdered by the 
demoniac crowd, but his lordship and his daughter, who 
accompanied him, escaped. We are now fairly within the 
Liberties of the city, and in ( rder to witness more palpably 



THIRD WALK. 49 

the departed glory of the place, enter Coombe Street, and 
see 

THE WEAVERS' HALL. This hall was erected in 
1745 hy Mr. J. D. Latonche, the descendant of a family 
who, on the revocation of Edict of Nantes, left France and 
found a home in the Irish metropolis. The members of 
the same family have ever been distinguished as commer- 
cial men. Over the entrance is a statue of George IL 
The interior is plain and truly depressing. 

Continuing through John Street, Summer Street, and School Street, we 
gain the basin of the Grand Canal, a herculean task in its day, and of great 
benefit to Ireland before the opening of the Midland and Great Western 
Railway, connecting, as it does, Dublin with the very centre of Ireland. 

CLOXDALKIN, a village of scattered houses, contains a parish church, 
a national school, and, as its crowning feature, a round tower. The tower 
is about eighty feet high, and built of stones each about a foot square, 
forming a circle fifteen feet in diameter. The waUs are very thick. Towards 
the top are four small oblong holes which admit the light, and it is termi- 
nated by a conic covering. A rude flight of steps has been constructed of 
such a rough nature that we might almost suppose them coeval with the 
tower. So firmly built is this apparently rude effort of masonry, that some 
years ago in the explosion of the powder-mills close at hand, which laid the 
village in almost total ruins, the tower stood uninjured. Many conjectures 
have been raised as to the object of these peculiar monuments, not less than 
as to their builders. Every possible use has been assigned to them, from 
watch-towers to church steeples. The Danes not unfrequently get the credit 
of their erection, and certainly in the present instance there may appear to be 
some plausibility in the belief. It is well known that Amlofi'e the Dane, 
who was crowned King of Dublin by his followers in 852, built a royal 
residence for. himself at Clondalkiu. That the tower may hare been apper- 
taining to the rude palace of the rude king seems not altogether improbable. 



FOURTH WALK. 
DUBLIN TO GLASNEVIN. 

The city being all but exhausted, it may be well to find our 
way through streets not already traversed. For this pur- 
pose, we will proceed in a northerly direction through 
Sackville Street, and walk or drive through Gregg's Lane 
and Marlborough Street, in order to have a passing view of 

E 



50 DUBLIN TO GLASNEVI]^ 

ST. THOMAS' CHURCH.— The ornamental details, which are showy 
without being elegant, embrace Corinthian, Grecian, and Roman styles, 
mixed up together, and are said to have been designed by Pulladio. A steeple 
was intended to have been added, but 'as yet is only represented by a 
wooden belfry. Temple Street must be traversed before we come upon the 
Ionic front of 

ST. GEORGE'S CHURCH.— Erected in 1802, at a cost of nearly £40,000. 
The portico is composed of four fine Ionic columns, supporting an entabla- 
ture and frieze, with an angular pediment. The spire is highly ornamented, 
and rises to the height of 200 feet. On the frieze is a Greek inscription 
from Luke ii. 14—" Glory to God in the Highest." Elaborately carved can- 
tilevers support a gallery which stands along three sides of the interior 
The fourth side has a curved bay, in which are situated the pulpit and reading- 
desk, fenced off from the communion-table by an elegant railing. In Dorset 
Street, which is close at hand, the 

Roman Catholic Chapel of ST. FRANCIS XAVIER is seen. This 
chapel is universally admired as a good specimen of the Roman Ionic style. 
It was originally designed by the Rev. B. Esmonde in 1829 ; J. B. Keano 
\)eing architect. The cost was £18,000. In front is a handsome portico 
fifty feet high, built of native granite. The interior decorations are very 
elaborate, especially on the ceiling and the altar-screen. A short walk 
through Elizabeth Street will bring us to Blacquir Bridge over the Royal 
Canal, and a few steps further will place us on the Glasnevin road, some- 
what less than a mile from the Post Ofiice. 

THE VILLAGE OF GLASNEVIN is situated about two miles from 
Dublin. The houses are poor in general, though a few have more preten- 
sions. The chief attractions are the Cemetery and Botanic Gardens. 

THE CEMETERY occupies a considerable area. The surface, unfor- 
tunately for picturesque effect, is perfectly level, yet the whole is tastefully 
laid out and carefully kept. One fine feature in Irish cemeteries cannot 
fail to catch the eye of the tourist from England or Scotland — the attention 
paid to the graves of deceased friends. Daily the relatives of the deceased 
may be seen with a little basket of fresh flowers to decorate the graves of 
theii* departed friends. Or, if it is winter, wreaths of evergreens of various 
hues, with a cross of solemn black, are hung on the rails which surround 
the visited tomb. We have already seen the habitation of Daniel O'Connell, 
and the Hall where his eloquence stirred the multitude. We now visit his 
tomo. From an octagonal foundation of native limestone rises a granite 
round tower, upwards of 160 feet in height, surmounted by a cross 8 feet high, 
and weighing, it is said, about two tons. However appropriate the monu- 
ment, it can scarcaly be called beautiful, whether viewed from a distance 
ar close at hand. In the cry'pt underneath the tower the remains of the 
great agitator now rest in peace. A round platform of earth in the centra 
of the ground, surrounded by a deep ditch, is the spot where O'Connell was 
nriffiually buried; and in the vault opening into this moat are the remains 



FOURTH WALK 51 

»f Steele, his statmch snpporter. Above the door will be seen the simplt 
inscription " Honest Tom Steele," contrasting favourably with a fulsome, 
ill-written epitaph on a neighbouring vault. 

The visitor of course will notice many tombs, but as the majority of 
them will only interest the few, we shall merely call attention to one, that 
of the admired wit and distinguished orator Curran. The tomb is of Irish 
granite, and a facsimile of the celebrated monument of Scipio Barbatiens. 
Admission to the cemetery is free, and no gratuity is allowed to be asked. 
" From the city of silence," we pass by a stile through a field to the high 
road, and thence in a few minutes reach the 

BOTANIC GAEDENS, Glasnevin, whicli are open 
daily at 12 o'clock, and on Saturdays at 2. The garden, 
which contains 43 acres, had formerly been the property 
of the poet Tickell, who came to Ireland with Addison, at 
the time when the latter was secretary to Lord Sunderland. 
In the house on the grounds Tickell enjoyed many happy 
hours in his friend's society ; and in it we may presume his 
best title to poetic fame, the ballad of Colin and Lucy, was 
composed. Perhaps few villages have been so honoured 
by literary talent. Pamell, the author of the Hermit, 
Brinsley Sheridan, and Swift, lived at different times in or 
near it ; and at Delville, a short way off, resided Dr. Delany, 
where poor Stella came to visit, in order to be near her 
eccentric admirer. A walk is shown to visitors named 
" Addison's Walk," having been peculiarly attractive to the 
author of the " Spectator " during his residence in Dublin. 
The Botanic Garden was founded in the year 1790 by the 
Irish Parliament, who voted a sufficient sum to the Koyal 
Dublin Society to enable it to purchase the ground, and 
the Society still receives an annual grant from Parliament 
for its support. It is generally admitted that for pictur- 
esque beauty this garden is second to none in Europe ; 
and the view, as seen from the rising ground overlooking 
the river, is certainly one which cannot be surpassed. It 
is a favourite resort of the Dublin people, nearly 1 40,000 
annually visiting the gardens on Sundays alone. 




JINVIRONS OF DUBLIN. 



HowTH, p. 54. 
Kingstown, p. 71. 
Bray, p. 73. 



EXCUESIONS. 

Devil's Glen, p. 81. Malahide, p. 60. 
Seven Churches, p, 85. Drogheda, p. 62. 
OvocA, p. 92. The Boyne, p. 63. 



PowERSCOURT, p. 76. WicKLOW, p. 97. Kells, p. 70. 

DUBLIN TO HOWTH. 

By 'Rail from Amiens Street. Trains seven times daily. Distance, 9 miles. 
Perhaps no better way of spending a day can be pro- 
posed than in an excursion to the peninsular bill of Howtb, 
The ancient name of the hill is Ben Hedar, which literally 
means the " Mountain of the Birds." It is the first object 
that attracts attention in approaching Dublin from the sea. 
Taking the Drogheda Eailway from Amiens Street, we 
fa-oss, half-a-mile from the terminus, the Eoyal Canal 
by a ^Q viaduct of latticed iron, 140 feet long, and 



I 



CLONTARF. 53 

immediately after obtain a view of tlie spacious bay of 
Dublin, with its breakwater, two miles in length. On the 
left appears 

MAEINO, the residence of the Earl of Charlemont, situ- 
ated in the middle of an extensive and beautiful demesne, 
with many fine trees. Various architectural ornaments add 
to the natural beauty of the scene. The most noticeable, 
perhaps, is the temple built by Sir W. Chambers. It is in 
the Doric order, and is beautifully ornamented with friezes ; 
while on the angles of the basement rest colossal lions. 
The interior is tastefully decorated, and the roof affords a 
magnificent view of the city of Dublin and the Bay. To 
the left appears the memorable plain of 

CLONTARF, famous as the scene of Brian Boroimhe's 
last victory over the Danes. 

** Remember the glories of Brian the brave. 
Though the days of the hero are o'er ; 
Though lost to Mononia, and cold in the grave, 
He returns to Kinkora no more. 
That star of the field, which so often hath poured 
Its beam on the battle, is set ; 
But enough of its glory remains on each sword. 
To light us to victory yet." 

MOOEE. 

It is doubted by many writers whether the victory was 
really in favour of the Irish. It is generally, however, 
conceded in their favour. The Scottish reader may be 
interested to see the name of Lennox mentioned among the 
soldiers of the patriot king. An Irish manuscript, trans- 
lated a few years ago for the " Dublin Penny Journal," by 
J. O'Donovan, after summing up the number of natives 
^lain on the side of Brian, says — 

"The great stewards of Leamhue (Lennox) and Mar, with other brave 
Albanian Scots, the descendants of Core, King of Munster, died in the same 
cause." After the battle, great respect was shown to the body of tne de- 
ceased king by his devoted followers, who almost looked upon him in the 
light of a saint. Wills gives the following account of the progress of Ms 
corpse; — "The body of Brian, according to his will, was conveyed to 
Armagh. First, the clergy of Swords in solemn procession brought it ta 



54 EXCURSIONS FROM DUBLIlv. 

their abbey, from thence the next morning, the clergy of Damliag (Duleck} 
conducted it to the church of St. Kiaran. Here the clergy of Lowth (Lugh- 
mach), attended the corpse to their own monastery. The Archbishop of 
Armagh, with his suflragans and clergy, received the body at Lowth, 
whence it was conveyed to their cathedral For twelve days and nights it 
was watched by the clergy, during which time there was a continual scene 
of prayers and devotion," Few traces remain of this dreadful encounter. 

CLONTAEF CASTLE, the seat of the Vernons, is 
another attraction to the spot. It is built in the Norman 
castellated style, which is almost the only order of archi- 
tecture suited for such buildings. The architect was Wm. 
Morrison, who died lately. The site of the building was 
formerly that of an ancient preceptory of the Knights 
Templars, dependent on that situated at Kilmainham. 

Should the tourist wish to visit the battlefield, and the two mansions 
just referred to, he may take the omnibus from the Nelson Column to 
Clontarf for threepence, and then take the train from Raheny Station to 
Howth. 

EAHENY is the first station on the line. The village 
presents no features of interest, save in the richness of the 
country surrounding it, which extends to the very foot of 
the hill of Howth. This tract was styled anciently the 
plain of Magh-n-Ealta. About a mile further we come to 
the Junction, where we leave the trunk line for Drogheda, 
and diverging by a branch to Howth, cross a long sandy isth- 
mus which connects the Hill of Howth with the mainland. 

BALDOYLE, a fishing village, is situate to the left on 
this isthmus, with one or two villas in its neighbourhood, 
while an extensive oyster-bed, known as Sutton Strand, lies 
to the right of the railway. The Hill of Howth is well 
seen from the train for some time before reaching it, 

HOWTH. 

Hotels. — The Boyal, The St. Jjawrence. Population 950. 

The Village of Howth, consisting of a single street, 
is situated pleasantly on the face of the hill. Originally 
it extended farther towards the castle, and at that time 
was merely a fishing village. Having become a sea-bathing 



HOWTH. 65 

Btation, a few more comfortable and commodious houses 
have sprung into existence of late, and the Eoyal Hotel, 
which is well conducted, affords good accommodation for 
families and tourists. There are also several other houses 
of entertainment which supply refreshment and accommo- 
dation to casual visitors. The population is about 700, 
independent of occasional summer residents ; the town 
contains a fine Eoman Catholic chapel, a dispensary, a 
national school, a constabulary station, and on an eminence 
near the castle is the neat parish church. 

HowTH Harbour. — The importance of constructing a 
harbour here was first urged upon the attention of Govern- 
ment in 1801, by the Hon. and Rev. W. Dawson, who 
proposed that mail packet-boats should start from it. At 
length, after many applications, the work was commenced 
in 1807 by the celebrated engineer Remiie. The harbour 
is somewhat rhomboidal in outline. The pier to our left 
runs out for a distance of 2280 feet ; that on the right is 
2700 feet in length, but is so constructed as to form two 
sides of the boundary, leaving in front an entrance 320 
feet wide. It was here that George TV. landed, in August 
1821, on his brief visit to Ireland. The charming rocky 
island, seemingly a stone-throw from the piers, is that long 
known as 

Ireland's Eye, to which a boat may be procured in fine weather for two 
shillings. The ancient name of this island was ** Inis-mac-Nessan," which 
literally signifies the "Isle of the sons of Nessan." The present name appears 
to be a con-uption of that bestowed on it by the Danes, who called it Ireland's 
Ey — ^the word Ey in the Danish signifying an island — e.g. , Lambey, Anglesey, 
Jersey, etc. In ancient books it has been printed Irlandsey. The remains 
of the church of St. Nessan are still to be seen on the island. A portion of 
a round tower is attached, and is evidently the ruins of the bell-tower. 
Dr. Petrie assignes the period of its erection to the middle of the seventJi 
century, when the island was inhabited by Dichuil, Munissa, and Neslug, 
sons of Messan, princely scion of the family of Leinster. In our rowing 
boat we shall pass a rock known as Carrigeen island or rock, and enter 
Carrigeen bay, among large loose rocks, covered with wild lichens, mosses, 
and ferns, and approach the semicircular arch of the old church door-way, 
which stands towards the west. Little of the ruin remains, so we may 
wander about the island for half-an-hour in quiet enjoyment of the scenes 



56 EXCPRSIONy FROM. DUBLIW. 

which, like a panorama, spread round on every side. The rocks and caves 
have each their peculiar names, as the Stags and the Rowan rocks, hut we 
leave these to the eloquence of the hoatman. On the sea-ward side the 
cliffs are very precipitous and imposing. Parties would do well to row 
round the Eye, and, weather permitting, to visit a curious cave on this 
side. The island contains about fifty-three statute acres. To the south- 
ward another of about one acre in area, called ThuUa, is connected with the 
parent isle by a submerged reef, designated Thulla rocks, over which the 
sea sometimes lashes with terrible fury. 

HowTH Castle is the family seat of the St. Lawrences, 
who have held it since the time of their ancestor, Sir 
Armoric Tristram de Valence, who arrived here in the 
twelfth century. The family name is said to have been 
Tristram, and that even Sir Armoric never bore the present 
family title, but that a descendant or relative assumed it 
on the occasion of a battle won by him on St. Lawrence's 
day. " The sword of this warrior yet hangs in the hall at 
Ilowth." The castle, which received additions, and was in 
a great measure rebuilt by the twentieth lord of Howth, in 
the sixteenth century, is a fine old structure. It consists 
of an embattled range, flanked by towers. The interior of 
the castle is rich in historical associations. Founded 
originally by one of the most chivalrous of the English 
settlers in Ireland, it has always maintained its high position. 

One sad blow was struck at his dignity by the graceless Grace O'Malley, 
or Granuaile, or Grana Uile, a western chieftainess, who, returning from a 
visit to Queen Elizabeth at London, landed at Howth, and essayed to tax 
the hospitality of the lordly owner, who refused to give her any refresh- 
ment. Determined to have her revenge, however, and to teach the de- 
scendant of the Saxon hospitality, she kidnapped the heir, and kept him a 
close prisoner until a pledge was obtained from his father that on no 
pretence whatever were the gates of Howth Castle to be closed at the hour 
of dinner. Strange though it may seem, this promise was most faithfully 
kept up to a very recent date. A painting of the incident is preserved in 
the oak-paneUed dining-room, 'fhe castle is approached by a flight of 
steps, leading into a hall extending the entire length of the building, and 
decorated with arms. Among these is the sword already referred to. It is 
a two-handed sword, measuring, even in its mutilated state, five feet seven 
inches ; the hilt alone being twenty-two inches long. 

There are also some good family portraits in the hall, and 
other interesting' mementos, including the bells from 



THE ABBEY OF HOWTH. 57 

Howth Abbey. The inscription on one is not very intelli- 
gible ; those on the other two are more so ; on one it 
runs — 

Jesu : Christe : Misserere : Nobis : 

and on the other — 

Sancta : Maria : ora : Pro : Nobis : ad : Filium : 

One portrait must not be passed unnoticed, were it only 
for the curious adjuncts affixed to it. It is a full-length 
portrait, by Beridon, in 1735, of Dean Swift, who was a 
frequent visitor at the castle. He holds in his hand a 
paper, on which is written — " The Draper's fourth letter to 
the whole people of Ireland." Poor Wood sprawls naked 
at his feet, clenching his patent for the coinage of copper 
money, a quantity of which lies scattered about hiia. The 
pleasure-grounds are extensive, well laid out, and contain 
some fine trees. They are open to the public on Saturdays 
from 2 to 6 P.M. A deep moat formerly surrounded the 
castle, but is now almost wholly filled up. 

The Abbey of Howth is situated on a delightful spot 
overhanging the ocean. Tradition states that its founda- 
tion was laid in 1235, and that it was erected by Luke, 
Archbishop of Dublin, on the removal of the prebendal 
church from Ireland's Eye. It was dedicated to the 
Blessed Virgin, and hence styled St. Mar/s. Over the 
western door is a ruined beKry, and at the opposite end a 
triplet window. This is certaiuly the oldest portion of the 
abbey, and undoubtedly the most elegant. In the chancel 
is an altar-tomb, belonging to Christopher, the twentieth 
lord, and his lady Elizabeth. Eecumbent figures represent 
them both ; the former in armour. On the sides of the 
tomb are sculptured the arms of the family and its con- 
nections. Along the northern side of the original church 
is an additional aisle, with rounded Burgundian windows, 
supposed to belong to the sixteenth century. 

The College op Howth is a name given to a peculiar 
mass of building, situated close to the burial-ground of the 



68 EXCaRSIONS from DUBLIN. 

abbey. In tbe centre is a small court, sxirroimded with 
higli walled buildings, now the habitation of the poorer 
classes. 

The Hill of Howth, properly so called, now invites 
onr attention. Having passed through the village, we 
keep on by the road to the right, and looking back at 
intervals, get a fine view of Ireland's Eye and Lambey 
islands, with the village of Howth in the foreground ; all 
the prettier for being partially shrouded with trees. Con- 
tinuing this walk, we come in sight of the rugged summits 
of Ben Edar, the highest point of which is 563 feet above 
the sea level. The steep rocks of Carricmore overhang the 
beautiful grounds of Howth Castle, and afford an extensive 
view of the coast, with a foreground of heather. At the 
foot of the rocks is an ancient cromlech, consisting of a 
huge oblong stone, about fourteen feet by twelve, supported 
on a number of others. Some of the supporting stones are 
still seven feet in height. 

Writers are at variance regarding the origin of this relic — some asserting 
that it was originally connected in some mysterious manner with a druidi- 
cal temple. The more generally received opinion is, that the cromlech was 
part of the sepulchral monument raised by the ancient inhabitants over 
their departed chiefs ; that it was, in fact, nothing more than a frame-work 
to protect the contents of the tomb from the pressure of the immense mass of 
stones piled around and above it in order to form a cairn. Taking this view 
of the subject, we must suppose that, in the course of time, the stones have 
been gradually removed from the cairn, leaving only the internal supports. 
An explanation, if not as reliable, yet more amusing, is the legend current 
among the natives, that the huge mass was pitched into its present position 
by the renowned giant Fin MacCoul, when fighting with a Danish warrior. 

The New Eoad, so named by way of distinguishing it 
from all others, is generally followed by travellers, affording 
a fine succession of marine views. Passing by this way the 
beautiful bay of Balscadden, a favourite bathing-place, we 
come to Puck's Kocks, situated on the north-east corner of 
the peninsula. A deep fissure separates the rock. Near 
the summit of the chasm is a rude representation of a 
human figure. 



ST. ftntan's church. 50 

This figure, tradition tells us, is the petrified remains of an evil spirit, 
who used to plague the good Saint Nessan, when he lived on Ireland's Eye. 
On one occasion the saint was reading the much venerated book of Howth, 
on the approach of his fiendish enemy ; and raising the precious volume, 
struck the intruder so forcibly with it, that he was knocked right across 
the water into the rock, which split into that yawning chasm in order to 
receive him. 

A little furtlier on is the unlucky Castlena rock, on 
wliicli the Victoria struck. Further on, we come in sight 
of the lighthouse, on the headland to the S.E., known as the 

Baily of Howth. — The term Baily is supposed to be derived from an 
old Irish word signifying a fortified hill ; and certain it is, that so late as 
1814 the lines of ancient fortifications were quite recognisable. The light- 
house was built in 1814 by the ** Ballast Board," in order to supersede an 
old one which stood 300 feet above the level of the water. It is in the form 
of a truncated cone supporting a lantern. The reflectors are parabolic, and 
in the foci are placed twenty large gas-jets, thus giving a clear fixed light. 
The appearance of the lighthouse from the road is very striking, standing 
out as it does on what seems to be an insulated rock. 

St. Fintan's Church (ruins) stands on the south side of 
Howth, facing the expanse of Dublin Bay. It was a church 
evidently of very slight pretensions, being little more than 
sixteen feet by eight ; the windows are small, and, with 
the exception of that in the east wall, destitute of orna- 
ment. The situation, however, makes up for all deficiencies 
in the building ; the view is delightful — on the north a 
rocky height, and on the south a beach, now the scene of 
a busy oyster trade. 

Besides the supposed druidical remains already mentioned, several others 
of a like character are observed on dififerent parts of the hill ; indeed, the 
ground seems teeming with historic and traditionary associations. The 
mountain limestone of Howth is much prized for mantel-pieces and orna- 
ments, being susceptible of a fine polish. Manganese is at present wrought 
on the south side of Howth, To the botanical visitor it will be sufficient to 
notice the following plants recorded as fouiid. Scilla verna on the beach ; 
Crithmum maritimum, the samphire ; Statice limonum, sea lavender ; Car- 
duus maricmuSy milk-thistle ; and in the marshes, Anagallis tenelkty the 
bog-pimpemel ; Iris fxtidissiTna, the blue-flowered iris ; and the Veronica. 
KuUUata, 



60 



EXCUESION FKOM DUBLIN. 
Malahide, Dbogheda, the Botne, Euins of Kells, etc 

By Kailway from Amiens Street Station. 

MALAHIDE (9 m. from Dublin). This village is 
resorted to for sea-batliiiig, and has an excellent hotel 
{Royal), but the chief attraction to strangers is 

Malahide Castle, the fine baronial mansion of Lord 
Talbot de Malahide, a large square building, flanked by 
lofty circular towers. The ancient character of the building 
has been retained, but little now remains of the original 
castle erected in the reign of Henry II. The main entrance 
is by a handsome Gothic porch, defended by two circular 
towers. The grand hall is roofed with richly-carved Irish 
oak, and among the many objects of interest is the " Oak 
Chamber," a room exhibiting the most elaborate carving in 
oak, and lighted with a pointed window of stained glass. 

The roof, wMch. is lofty, is strengthened by horizontal beams, and the walls 
completely wainscoted with carved oak. In the compartments are small 
Scripture pieces. Age, instead of diminishing the splendour of this apart- 
ment, has only added to its beauty ; the asperity of the carving has been 
softened, and the colour mellowed into a hue of almost ebony blackness. 
The other rooms of the castle are worthy of a visit, but lose much of their 
interest in the mind of the antiquary, from being denuded of their ancient 
furniture and decorations, and being restored in a jnore modem, and pro- 
bably more comfortable style. Some of the pictures are of great value and 
interest, among which may be enumerated : — Portraits by Vandyke, of 
Charles I. and his Queen ; by Sir P. Lely, of James II. and his Queen, the 
Duchess of Portsmouth and her son the first Duke of Richmend, and Talbot 
Duke of Tyrconnel and daughters. The finest picture is that by Albert 
Durer, a small altar-piece representing the Nativity, Adoration, and Circum- 
cision. This painting, it appears, was the property of the *' Beauteous, 
hapless Mary," and said to have been originally in that unfortunate Queen's 
oratory at Holyrood. Charles II. afterwards purchased it for £2000, and 
presented it to the Duchess of Portsmouth, when she stood in high favour 
at Court. 

The Lordship of Malahide was granted by Henry II. to Richard Talbot^ 



MALAHIDE. 6 1 

an ancestor of the present proprietor, and the eldest representative of Sir 
Geof&ey Talbot, who held Hereford Castle against King Stephen for the 
Empress Maud, and one of the adventurous knights who had letters of 
patent for the acquisition of land in Ireland. He was a contemporary of 
Sir Armoric de Valence, who founded Howth Castle, and it is supposed 
that the families of Talbot and St. Lawrence are the only descendants of the 
adventurers who still hold the property won by their ancestors' swords. 

Ma LA HIDE Abbey is an interesting ruin of a clmrch in 
tlie Gothic style of arcHtectnre, containing a well-executed 
"window. Tlie ancient moat is filled up, and transformed 
into a sloping bank, decorated witli sknibs. Stately timber 
everywhere decorates the park, and the sea -view which the 
castle commands will be prized by the visitor. The island 
of Lambay is a conspicuous object in the prospect. It rises 
boldly from the sea about 3 miles to seaward. The ruins 
of an ancient fortress which defended it were some years 
ago transformed into a shooting-box by Lord Talbot. 

The abbey was for ages the place of sepulture of the holders of the castle, 
and an altar-tomb in the centre of the ruin wiU attract attention, from the 
pgure of a female in antiquated dress sculptured upon it. The story told of 
the occupant of the tomb is one of interest, illustrating the mutability of hu- 
man affairs. The daughter of Lord Pluhkett was betrothed to the youthful 
Lorn Galtrim, and already had the day of their nuptials arrived, when the 
sound of the trumpet called the bridegroom from the altar to head his 
followers against a marauding party. When evening came, the soldiers 
returned, but bore their lord upon a bier. Thus the lady in one day was — 

"Maid, wife, and widow." 
She was afterwards twice married, her third husband being Sir Richard 
Talbot of Malahide. 

SWORDS, a small but ancient town, lies about 3 miles 
to the west of Malahide, and is of interest to the antiquary. 
The combination of ruins at Swords is very curious. There 
is a round tower, one of the most perfect in Ireland, of 
whose erection no annals speak, an abbey frequently 
plundered by the Danes, and an old castle, formerly the 
palace of the Archbishop of Dublin, pleasantly overlooking 
a clear rivulet. The round tower, the upper portion of 
which has been restored, is about 73 feet in height 



62 DROGHEDA. 

LUSK, 5 miles nortli of Malaliide by railway, lias a very 
ancient parish cliurcli and small common belonging to it. 
At the west end of the church is a curious steeple, more 
resembling a portion of a fortress. It is defended by battle- 
ments and round towers at three angles, while adjacent to 
the fourth comer stands one of the prehistoric round towers. 
On the floor of the church is the fine monument of Sir 
Christopher Barnewall of Turvey. The stone-roofed crypt 
under the steeple led Grose to attribute the foundation of 
the church to the Ostmen. 

DKOGHEDA (Imperial Hotel), an hour and a half's drive 
by rail from Dublin, is situated on the famous river Boyne, 
population, 14,389. The religious denominations of the 
town in 1871 consisted of 912 English Episcopal, 246 
Protestant Dissenters, and 13,231 Eoman Catholics. The 
town was formerly walled in, and considerable portions of 
its walls, with two of its gates, still remain as ruins. St. 
Laurence's Gate, on the northern side of the river, is a very 
perfect specimen ; and the West Gate, on the southern or 
Meath side, forms a most picturesque ruin. It is expected, 
and not without reason, that Drogheda will yet assume a 
more important position as a seaport. Its harbour is good, 
and its position almost exactly opposite Liverpool, which 
is only 133 miles distant. The tourist from the south will 
find here the first indication of the extensive linen manu- 
factories which peculiarly distinguish the north of Ireland. 

Associated with Drogheda are the histories of the memorable siege by 
Cromwell, and the '* Battle of the Boyne." In 1649 Cromwell landed at 
Dublin with an army of 12,000 men besides artillery. Drogheda was the 
first place he attacked. It was garrisoned at the time by 2800 men, 
commanded by the brave Sir Arthur Aston. The assailants were twice 
gallantly repulsed, but the third attack, led by Cromwell in person, was 
successful, and then commenced that indiscriminate slaughter which has 
rendered the name of the Protector one of execration throughout Ireland. 

Drogheda contains numerous military and ecclesiastical 
remains. The most remarkable of the latter is St. Mary's 
Church, or abbey, founded in the reign of Edward I. It 



THE BOYNE. 63 

was originally a convent for Carmelites, and called St. 
Mary's of Mount Carmel ; very expressive of its situation, 
being erected on the most elevated part of the southern 
division of the town, and occupying the south-east angle of 
the town wall, now spanning a dirty lane. In an equally 
wretched portion of the town, but on the northern side, is 
situated the Magdalen Steeple, being the only existing 
remains of the church of the Dominican Friary, where the 
Irish chiefs submitted to Eichard II. 

The Battle op the Boyne. — This historic river rises 
near the village of Carbery, in the county of Kildare, 289 feet 
above the level of the sea, out of one of the holy wells so 
numerous in Ireland, and, after being increased by a number 
of tributaries, joins the Blackwater at Navan, whence the 
two flow conjointly to the harbour of Drogheda. A walk 
of a mile from Drogheda along the north side of the river 
as far as the Obelisk on the battlefield of the Boyne, will 
t'jilly reward the tourist. It was here that, on the 1st July 
1690, the celebrated battle was fought between the Prince 
of Orange and his father-in-law James II. William landed 
at Carrickfergus, and was on his way to Dublin when the 
t own of Drogheda, then in the hands of the Irish, barred 
his further progress, and here James gave him battle. On 
Hearing the obelisk a road will be seen on the right hand, 
up what appears to be a little valley. Down this road it 
is said the English troops marched and crossed the Boyne, 
attacking the Irish army, which was stationed on the south 
side of the river. The armies were believed to be nearly 
equal in strength — i.e. about 30,000 each. The loss is 
estimated at 500 kiUed of William's troops, and 1000 of 
James's. William had nearly met with his death before the 
engagement. Having advanced with some officers within 
gunshot of the Irish camp, Berwick, Tyrconnel, Sarsfield, 
and some other generals riding slowly on the opposite banksj 
viewing the army in their march, soon discovered the present 
situation of the king. A party of forty horse immediately 



64 THE BOYNE. 

appeared in a plonglied field opposite to the place where lie 
was. In their centre they carefully concealed two field- 
pieces, which they planted unnoticed under cover of a hedge, 
and retired. William mounted his horse. At that moment 
the first discharge killed a man and two horses on a line, 
at some distance, with the king. Another ball instantly 
succeeded, grazed on the banks of the river, rose, and 
slanted on his right shoulder, tearing his coat and fiesh. 

" James II. displayed but little courage in this memorable battle. He 
abandoned the field even before the battle was decided, and made a ride o^ 
unexampled rapidity through Ireland. In a few hours he reached the castle 
of Dublin, and in the following day he rode to Waterford, a distance of 100 
English miles. Nevertheless James sought to throw the whole blame of the 
whole defeat on the Irish. On arriving at the castle of Dublin, he met the 
Lady Tyrconnel, a woman of ready wit, to whom he exclaimed, * Your 
countrymen, the Irish, madam, can run very fast, it must be owned,' * In 
this, as in every other respect, your majesty surpasses them, for you have 
won the race,' was the merited rebuke of the lady." — Kohl's Ireland. 

An obelisk 150 feet in height, on a rocky foundation, 
marks the spot where William commenced the attack, as 
also where Schomberg felL The inscription, which has 
been objected to as sectarian in its sentiments, runs as 
follows : — 

Sacred to the glorious memory of King William the Third, who, on the 1st 
of July 1690 passed the river near this place to attack James the Second at the 
head of a Popish army, advantageously posted on the south side of it, and did 
on that day, by a single battle, secure to us, and to our posterity, our liberty, 
laws, and religion. In consequence of this action James the Second left this 
kingdom and fled to France, 

This mem^ of our deliverance was erected in the 9th year of the reign of 
King George the Second, the first stone being laid by Lionel Sackville, Duke of 
Dorset J Lord Lieutenant of the Kingdom of Ireland. 
1736. 

A bridge crosses the river near the obelisk. Donore 
Church, where James stood during the action, is a ruin 
occupying a piece of rising groimd on the south side of the 
river. The grave of Caillemote, the leader of the French 
Protestants, is pointed out at a little distance from the 
field. It is marked by two elm-trees. Apart from all 
historical interest the vale of the Boyne is really an 



MOXASTERBOICE 



enchanting spot, and one likely to subdue the bitter feelings 
of those of either persuasion who visit. The tourist may 
proceed from this point to New Grange 4 miles, and Slane 
8 miles by road. They are described below. 



ANTIQUARIAN EXCURSIONS from DROGHEDA. 

MoNASTERBOiCE, a Celebrated assemblage of ecclesias- 
tical remains, about 4| miles north of Drogheda by road, 
will well repay a visit. Enclosed within a churchyard of 
modest dimensions, and standing quite solitary in the 
midst of fields, are the ruins of t^^o chapels, a handsome 
round tower, and two elaborately sculptured stone crosses. 
It is impossible to fix the dates of the chapels with any 
degree of certainty. One is evidently not much older 
than the church-building tweKth century ; but the other 
is undoubtedly much more ancient. Seward says — 

** There are two stone crosses at the south side of the church, the 
principal of which, called St. Boyne's Cross, is the most ancient religious 
relique now in Ireland. Among the rude sculptures there is an inscription 
on it^in Irish characters, in which is plainly legible the name of Muredach, 
who was for some time king of Ireland, and died in 534, about 100 years 
after the arrival of St. Patrick." The abbey, it would seem, however, was 
founded by St. Boetius, who died in 521. The round tower is 110 feet high, 
its circumference near the ground about 50 feet, diminishing gradually 
from the base, like a Tuscan pillar. The walls are 3 feet 6 inches thick, 
the door is 5 feet 6 inches in height, 22 inches in width, and 6 feet from 
the present level of the ground. It is arched and built of freestone, as 
are also the windows of the chapel. The diameter of the tower on the 
inside is 9 feet, and above the door it is divided into five storeys by 
slightly projecting rings of stone. The summit of the tower has been 
shattered, it is said, by lightning. The principal cross is 27 feet inheight» 
and is composed of two stones. The shafts are divided into compartments, 
ornamented with figures. When describing the compartments, Kohl 
notices one representing " a couple of harpers in Paradise," and adds — " I 
suppose no Irishman of the olden time would have thought Paradise 
complete without his beloved national instrument." 

** Oh ! give me one strain 
Of that wild harp again, 
In melody proudly its own, 
Sweet harp of the days that are gone." — Loyeb. 
F 



66 NEW GRANGE. 

jMellifont Abbey, founded in 1142 by O'Carrol, prince 
of Orgiel, for Angustinian monks, is about three miles to 
the west of Monasterboice, and five and a half from 
Drogheda. Both places may be conveniently visited in 
one excursion. At the Dissolution it is said to have 
contained a hundred and forty monks. The abbey and 
its possessions were given to Sir Gerald Moore, ancestor 
of the Marquesses of Drogheda. In 1 142, Cardinal Papiro 
is said to have held his famous synod within its walls. 

"It is certain," writes Seward, "that, in 1157, a synod was held here, 
at which the monarch, the King of Ullidia, the prince of Breffai, and the 
prince of Orgiel assisted, when the great church was consecrated, and 
amongst other offerings 180 oz. of gold and a gold chalice were presented." 
The same author further adds — " Here was a fine Gothic doorway into the 
chapel all of blue marble, richly ornamented and gilt, as also a beautiful 
octagonal bath, or more properly baptistery, standing near it, but these 
were sold and destroyed." 

The baptistry, as it now stands, is a space of about 29 
feet, enclosed by walls supported on circular-headed 
arches of sandstone. St. Bernard's Chapel is a very fine 
example of the Early English style before the arches had 
lost all of their rounded character, and yet began to be 
influenced by the pointed span of the Gothic style. This 
last portion is undoubtedly much newer than the baptistry, 
which is somewhat similar to the Eoman remains at York 

New Grange may be gained by following the north 
side of the Boyne past the battlefield for about 4 miles. 
Tumuli exist in various spots in the neighbourhood, and 
that of New Grange, explored in 1699, will well repay a 
visit. A quantity of stones formerly lay at the bottom of 
the mound, and were in the course of being removed by a 
gentleman for the purpose of repairing the road, when he 
came to " a very broad flat stone rudely carved, and placed 
edgeways at the bottom of the mount." This excited his 
curiosity, and excavations were made, resulting in the 
careful exploration of the interior. A passage of nearly 
sixty feet, very low, but roofed and walled with stone 
slabs, conducts into the centre chamber. Three little 



SLAXE. 67 

recesses originally contained basins, wlietlier for the pur- 
pose of ablution or not it is difficult to determine. One 
basin, scooped out of solid stone, is still perfect, and 
another remains in a mutilated state. The cave contains 
many mementoes of the past in carving upon the stones. 
Conjectures have been rife as to the object of these 
chambered tumuli. It will be sufficient to state that by 
antiquaries they are supposed to have been for sepulture, 
sacrifice, or for hiding treasure. Dr. Wilde regards this 
stupendous relic of Pagan times as " probably one of the 
oldest Celtic monuments in the world, which has elicited 
the wonder, and called forth the admiration, of all who 
have visited it." Close to this there is another cavern, 
containing four holes or windows, and eight niches round 
the inside. It can be explored by crawling on all fours. 

Slane, three miles further by road, and about eight 
miles from Drogheda, can also be reached by rail from 
Drogheda by stopping at Beauparc Station. Though now 
a small village, Slane, in the time of Hugh de Lacy, was a 
place of some note, being one of the boroughs in his pala- 
tiaate of Meath. The hermitage of St. Ere, which lies 
south of the town near the river, in the dark shade of a 
grove of ancient yew-trees, and one of the most romantic 
of ruins, takes its name from St. Ere, the first Bishop of 
Slane, who was consecrated by St. Patrick, and died in 
514, and was occupied in 1512 by two hermits named 
O'Brien. Near the hermitage is the princely seat of the 
Marquis of Conyngham, Slane Castle, standing upon a 
green bank rising from and overlooking the river. During 
his visit to Ireland ia 1821, George IV. spent some days 
in the castle. Slane was amongst the places in Ireland 
earliest visited by St. Patrick, the first successful missionary 
in the country. A fine spring of water, called Lady Well^ 
situate on the lower walk near the hermitage, is resorted 
to by many zealous catholics for the efficacy of its waters 
in certain skin diseases. The ruias of the abbey now 
form a picturesque object in the demesne of Slane Castle; 



DuLEEK, easily readied from Drogheda by rail, four and 
a half miles, is contiguous to tlie station wHch bears its 
name, seven miles from Slane. In tbe reign of Edward 
III., Theobald de Vernon held the estate and manor. Its 
ancient name was Damhleac — i.e. the house of stone — and 
was celebrated for having been the first stone church built 
in Ireland. It w^as erected by St. Patrick in the 5th 
century, and was frequently plundered by the Danes. The 
village is situated on the river Nanny. The portions of 
the Priory now standing are of various dates and aspects. 
The tower is tolerably entire. Duleek played its part in 
the war of 1690, and a bridge erected in 1587 is pointed 
out as the spot where the cannon of James were placed. 

Navan, twelve miles further on by the same line of 
rail, is sixteen miles west of Drogheda. The town, which 
is of considerable antiquity, consists of two principal streets 
crossing each other at right angles. It w^as walled round 
by Hugh de Lacy. There are, however, no buildings of 
any note in the town — the " Tholsel," or to^vn-house is the 
principal. In the burial-ground are the remains of some 
ancient tombs, with figures in alto-relievo ; and the pre- 
sent barrack occupies the site of the old abbey. It is 
not known whether this abbey existed before the 1 2th 
century or not. In the immediate vicinity of Navan are 
the ruins of Donaghmore church, with its accompanying 
round tower 70 feet in height and 12 in diameter. The 
remains at Clady, Kilcarn, Liscarton, and Scarloughstown, 
will fully repay a visit, but more especially 

TAEA, about six and a haK miles south of Navan, by 
road crossing the Boyne by Kilcarn bridge. To the 
ordinary observer Tara presents nothing more than a smaU 
conical hill abruptly truncated, surrounded wdth undulat- 
ing mounds covered with grass ; but to the student of 
history and antiquities it calls into existence the magnifi- 
cent palace of the monarch Cormac, with his retinue of 
150 brave champions and 1050 soldiers, his bards, Druids, 



TARA. 69 

and lawgivers. It recalls the earliest efforts of St. Patrick, 
the assemblies of the states, and the ancient prehistoric 
civilisation of Ireland. 

*'Here it is supposed," writes the matter-of-fact Seward, "there was 
anciently a magnificent royal palace, the residence of the kings of Ireland, 
where triennial parliaments were held, in which all the nobility, gentry, 
priests, etc., assembled, and here laws were enacted and repealed, and 
the general advantage of the nation consulted. It is certain that some 
writers have disputed that any building of lime and stone was ever erected 
on this spot at the time we speak of ; but the fact is positively insisted 
on by many others. This place is otherwise called Teamor, from Teagh 
mor, or the great house, or Teagh-mor-Eagh, the great house of the king, 
and much celebrated in ancient Irish history. Certain it is that this h11| 
was the NaasteigJian, whereon the states assembled for several ages — that 
is, from the beginning of the first to the middle of the sixth century ; from 
which period we hear no more of the general convention of the states, but 
each province was governed by its own local ordinances." 

Recent investigations have brought very little to light, 
but that little has tended to confirm the account just 
given. Moore's celebrated lines aptly describe the altered 
fortunes of this historic spot : — 

" The harp that once through Tara's halls 
The soul of music shed. 
Now hangs as mute on Tara's walls. 
As if that soul were fled. 

** So sleeps the pride of former days. 
So glory's thrill is o'er ; 
And hearts that once beat high for praise 
Now feel that pulse no more. 

" No more to chiefs and ladies bright 
The harp of Tara swells ; 
The chord alone that breaks at night 
Its tale of ruin tells. " 

The last of the great national assemblies at Tara took 
place in the year 554, during the reign of King Diarmid. 
But here also, on the 1st of August 1843, O'Connell held 
one of his monster meetings. 

Kells, twelve miles west of Navan, and twenty-six from 
Drogheda by rail ; can also be reached from Dublin direct 
from Broadstone station — this saves an hour over the 



70 KELLS. 

Drogheda route. It is pleasantly gltuated about three- 
quarters of a mile from the Blackwat^r, and is one of the 
most remarkable places in early Irish ecclesiastical history. 
It was anciently called Kenlis. About 550 St. Columb- 
kille founded a monastery for canons regular, dedicated to 
the Virgin Mary, of which no trace now remains. The 
site is said to have been granted to him by " Dermot Mac- 
Carval, or Dermod the son of Kervail, king of Ireland," 
who afterwards proved to be the sworn foe of the saint, and 
a man of fierce passions. Columbkille was born in Ireland 
in the year 521, of a royal race, being a lineal descendant 
in the fourth generation from Niall of the Nine Hostages. 
It is said that he was baptized Criomthan, a statement 
borne out by the poetic legend, translated by Keating : — 

"The pious Christian hero Collumcille 
When he was baptized received the name 
Of Criomtham Oluin ; his guardian angel 
Was the most watchful Axall." 

This saint is said to have founded three hundred monas- 
teries in Ireland before proceeding to Britain. The reader 
need hardly be informed that the monastic ruins of famed 
lona owe their origin to him. Bede says — " Columba, 
arrived in Britain in the ninth year of Brude, the son of 
Meilochan, king of the Picts, who was a potent king, and 
whose subjects were, by his preaching and example, con- 
verted to the Christian faith. On this account he obtained 
from them the above-mentioned island as a demesne for 
his monastery." A castle was erected in the market-place 
of Kells in 1178, "and opposite the castle was a cross 
of an entire stone, one of the most beautiful remains of 
this description in the country, ornamented with bas-relief 
figures, and inscriptions in the ancient Irish character." 

Not far from the church is a round tower 99 feet high, with a conical 
summit, and four windows facing the cardinal points. In the reign of 
Richard I. a priory was erected by Walter de Lacy, Lord of Meath, " for 
cross-bearers, or crouched friars following the order of St. Augustine." 
There was also a perpetual chantry of three chaplains in the parish to 
celebrate daily mass— one in St. Mary's chapel, another in the chapel of 
the Rood, and a third in that of St. Catherine the Virgin. 



71 



DUBLIN TO KINGSTOWN AND DALKEY. 

By Rail from Westland.Row Station, every haK hour. 

The line to Kingstown, whicli was opened on the 1 7th of 
December 1834, was constructed at an expense of £340,000, 
and affords one of the most agreeable of railway journeys. 
The stations are Booterstown, Sydney Parade, Blackrock (a 
famous bathing spot), Seapoint, and Salt-hill or Monkstown ; 
places which form pleasant suburban retreats for the Dublin 
citizens. A drive of forty minutes along the margin of 
Dublin Bay brings us to the lively harbour of 

KINGSTOWN. 

Hotels. — ^Boyal Marine— Anglesea Arms — Boyal Haxbour (and 
Boarding House). 

Much of the prosperity of this town is to be attributed 
to the facilities which it presents for the reception of 
packets from England, which arrive and depart several 
times a-day. It is situated on the south side of Dublin 
Bay, on a dangerous coast, where, previous to the comple- 
tion of the now admirable lighthouse arrangements, many 
serious accidents occurred. In the 

Harbour, we never fail to see one of the packets lying 
in waiting for the time of sailing. The refuge harbour is 
not unlike that at Howth in form, but embraces an area of 
250 acres. The depth of water varies from 13 to 27 feet. 
A revolving light, visible every half-minute for about nine 
miles distant, is placed on the eastern pier. This harbour 
was declared by the Tidal Harbour Commissioners to be 
" one of the most splendid artificial ports in the United 
Kingdom." The granite of which it is composed was 
obtained at Killiney Hill. The town is well built, con- 
sisting of several streets and terraces. George Street is 
half-a-miLe in length, and well built. The population 
numbers about 12,000. An obelisk, raised on a mass of 



72 EXCURSIONS FROM DUBLIN. 

rock-work, surmonnted hj a sculptured crown, cominemoiv 
ates the visit of George IV. Two miles fiirtlier is 

DALKET, a town wMch certainly has now shared to a considerable 
extent in the prosperity of Kingstown, although at one time ranking higher 
in importance. During the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries, Dalkey 
was a port much used by the Dublin merchants, who found it safer to have 
their goods landed there than allow their ships to venture into Ithe bay, 
and attempt the passage of the Liffey. In the town and neighbourhood are 
numerous remains, of greater or less extent, of castles and fortified places 
all found necessary to defend the town and harbour against the incursions 
of Irish pirates, who at one time swarmed in the channel At a short 
distance from the mainland is situated. 

Dalkey Island, the sound between which and the land is said to be 
somewhere about eight fathoms deep at the lowest tide. In this nook, 
ships may be perfectly safe from the north-east winds which effect the bay.. 
The island contains about eighteen acres, mostly pasture. The ruin of an 
old church, and what has been called a Druid's altar, are met with on the 
island. In the neighbourhood of Dalkey are many pleasant villas. 

KILLINEY HILL, situated close to Dalkey, is from its position a 
noticeable feature in the landscape, although rising only 472 feet above the 
sea. A Druidical circle exists not far from it, in a field beyond Mount Druid 
property. A pyramidal pillar at Ballybrack marks the spot where the young 
Duke of Dorset was killed by a fall from his horse, when out hunting with 
Lord Powerscourt's hounds. On the north side of the hill are extensive 
granite quarries. 

Dublin Bay, as viewed from this hill, is generally allowed to be one of 
the finest sights in Ireland. In the foreground we have a succession of rocks 
and trees, with Kingstown appearing beyond them, the railway station, 
obelisk, and harbour being conspicuous objects ; a little further into the 
bay stretches the south wall of the Liffey, ^vith a lighthouse at the end of 
it ; while beyond this, the level shore of the bay is seen ending in the rugged 
peninsula of Howth. Those who think the toil of ascending the Hill of 
Killiney too great, will find it worth while to hire a car for the purpose of 
enjoying the delightful views which can be obtained from the summit of 
the hilL 

The railway continues 5 miles further along the coast to Bray, passing 
on the way Killiney and Ballybrack stations. 



73 



DUBLIN TO BRAy. 
BRAY AND THE WICKLOW MOUNTAINS. 

Bray, 12 miles by rail from Dublin (Hotels— Marine, situated between the 
station and sea-beach; International, Quinsborough Road. Card 
of charges on application. ) 



Cab fares from Bray Station. 


For two persons. 


For three or 
more persons. 


To the Dargle - - - - 
Waterfall 
Glen of the Downs 
Delgany 
Greystones - - - 


s. d. 

1 5 
3 
3 
3 

2 6 


s. d. 

2 
4 
4 
4 

3 4 



A large range of Turkish Baths was erected here by Mr. Dargan, bnt 
has been converted into assembly and reading-rooms, etc. 

The name of this headland is supposed to have been 
derived from Breagh, brother of the hero Edar, who gave 
his name to the Hill of Howth. The town is rising fast 
into importance as a tourists' station, from its proximity to 
the Dargle, the Glen of the Downs, and the Devil's Glen^ 
and from the facility with which it can be reached from 
Dublin, either direct by road — a distance of about twelve 
or thirteen miles — or by railway. The population is 
nearly four thousand. 

Bray Head is situated some distance from the town, 
and from it is obtained a most admirable view, embracing 
to the north KilHney Bay, Howth, and the Moume Moun- 
tains ; to the west the toA\Ti of Bray, backed by the Sugar 
Loaves and Shankhill Mountain ; and to the south Wick- 
low Head. The Welsh mountains are said to be sometimes 
discernible in the horizon in clear weather. In the 
neighbourhood of Bray are Kilruddery, the noble mansion 
of the Earl of Meath, built in the Elizabethan style, and 
situated in a beautifully undulating park ; besides Bray 
Head demesne, now" a Loretto convent ; Old Court, the 



74 EXCURSIONS FROM DUBLIN. 

residence of Mr. Edwards, witli tlie ruin of De Eiddesford's 
Castle in the pleasure-grounds ; Hollybrook, another 
Elizabethan mansion, the residence of Sir G. F. Hodson, 
Bart. , Wingfield, the property of !Mr. Darley ; and at the 
other end of the Glen of the Downs, Bellevue, the seat of 
P. Latouche, Esq. 

The Dargle and Powerscourt may be conveniently visited 
from Bray. A description of these places will be found 
below. 

From Bray the railway continues to Wicklow and 
Enniscorthy. 

BRAY TO THE DARGLE, POWERSCOURT, GLEN OF 

THE DOWNS, ETC. 

Dargle. Enniskerry. Powerscourt Demesne. Waterfall. Glencree. 
Loughs Bray. Sally Gap. Luggala. Lough Tay. Ballinasloe Inru 
Glen of the Downs. In all about 30 miles. 

The tourist making Bray his head-quarters will find 
abundant amusement in excursions which may be made 
from that place. The above excursion, which exhausts all 
the objects of interest round Bray, may be accomplished 
in one day by car. Soon after leaving Bray, the Dargle 
is entered on foot and followed to Enniskerry,"^ 3 m., and 
Powerscourt, where the cars should be in waiting. From 
Powerscourt a good road proceeds to the Waterfall, and 
through Glencree, to the barrack of that name, from which 
Loughs Bray may be visited, and the military road taken 
as far as Sally Gap, where, instead of going right on, we 
take the road to the left, and passing Luggala Lodge and 
Lough Tay, join the Enniskerry and Bound wood road, 
about two and a quarter miles from the latter place. This 
road must then be followed northwards for nearly a mile 
and a half, when we turn at a right angle to the east, and 
reach Ballinastoe, where refreshments may be procured. 

* Cars wait here for Powerscourt, for which a pass should be obtained 
beforehand from the agency here. Hotel : Powerscourt j 



THE DARGLE. 75 

From here we must pursue our journey to Hermitage 
and Glendaragh, situate to the north of Newtown Mount 
Kennedy, and thence by the Glen of the Downs (page 80) 
to Bray. The distance in all will be nearly thirty nulesi 
Those who wish to see the Glen of the Downs without ex- 
tending the journey may drive direct thither from Bray. 
The waterfall and demesne of Powerscourt may also have 
one entire day devoted to them. 

THE DAEGLE. This name is applied to a long glen, 
through which the river Dargle flows, until it meets 
Enniskerry river, and thenceforth the united pair form 
Bray river. The river Dargle takes its rise in Crockan 
Pond, a hill 1770 feet high, and situated about six or 
seven miles from Enniskerry. On its way it skirts the 
War Hill, 2250, and romes close to the Roundwood high 
road, where one of its tributaries, forming Powerscourt 
Waterfall, tumbles wildly down the mountain side. The 
river flows north through the old deer-park of Powers- 
court, and, on leaving it, receives the river of Glencree ; 
when it becomes the boundary between the seats of Lords 
Monck and Powerscourt. iMr. Grattan's property of Tkme- 
hinch is next enlivened by it, where the vale suddenly 
contracts into a narrow ravine. The length of the glen is 
about a mile, and the height of some portions of the en- 
closing wall of rocks exceeds 300 feet. These precipitous 
rocks are, moreover, beautifully clothed vnth native wild 
wood and graceful fern. Many parties prefer to enter the 
glen at the lower end, and leave it at the upper, and not a 
few will prefer spending the entire summer day in such a 
shady retreat, particularly if the heat be oppressive on the 
roads. The view of the glen from above is exceedingly 
beautiful ; exhibiting a rare combination of rugged rock, 
foliage of every tint and form, and the silvery stream 
underneath. " It is a fine example of a wooded ravine, and 
is exceedingly beautiful. The banks on either side, parti- 
cularly on the right bank of the river, rise in some places 



76 EXCURSIONS FROM DUBLIJST. 

to the height of three hundred feet, the slopes being com- 
pletely covered with the liveliest and greenest woods. It 
is like some of the more wooded glens of our Scottish 
streams, but softer and richer. Perhaps it comes nearest 
the character of the Wye, but is on a smaller scale. The 
river that flows through it is inconsiderable, but large 
enough to yield the charms both of sight and sound to the 
traveller, as he treads his shaded path on the brow of the 
steep above it."* One of the best stations for a view of 
the glen is known as the Lover's Leap, situated at the head 
of the glen, and easy of access from the main path. The 
whole, or nearly the whole of the glen and its neighbour- 
hood, is observable from that point. 

POWEESCOURT, 4 miles from Bray, and 3 miles from 
Enniskerry (open on Mondays and Tuesdays — an order from 
agency at Enniskerry required on other days), is further up 
the glen. It is the property of the family of Wingfield. It 
is due to this family to mention that scarcely any in Ire^ 
land enjoy so much of the goodwill and respect of the pea- 
santry. The late Lord Powerscourt was a constant resident 
in the country. A curious instance of the respect for a 
resident landlord occurred during the terrible rebellion in 
1798. Lord Powerscourt, despising the cowardice of those 
landlords who thought they could not be safe unless shel- 
tered in the capital, fortified his mansion, and to prove his 
reliance upon his tenantry, formed them into a yeomanry 
to the number of a hundred, and with their assistance pre- 
served family and property. Holt, the famous rebel- 
general, suiTendered to Lord Powerscourt. The mansion, 
finely placed upon a terrace, is built of granite ; it is plain, 
large, and truly baronial in appearance. Among the apart- 
ments, which are very spacious, is the grand saloon, eighty 
feet by forty, where George IV. was entertained on his 
visit to Ireland in 1821. The land appertaining to the 
demense of Powerscourt is estimated at 26,000 English 
* Sir Joliii Forbes. Memorandums made in Ireland 



THE WATERFALL. 77 

acres, but the enclosed grounds do not exceed 800 acres 
It has frequently changed hands since first becoming Eng- 
lish property. De la Poer, a knight in Strongbow's com- 
pany, was the first English possessor, and by him the castle 
was built. In the reign of Henry YIIL the castle was 
taken by the fierce O'Byrnes and O'Tooles of WickJow ; 
and, being retaken by the English, was conferred upon the 
Talbots. Another Irish clan, the Kavanaghs, obtained 
possession of it in 1556. In 1608 the property was given 
by James I. to Sir R. Wingfield, who was created Viscount 
Powerscourt in 1618, since which time the peerage has 
twice become extinct, and was revived for the second time 
in 1743 in favour of the present peer's ancestor. 

the' waterfall, 4 miles from Powerscourt and 8 
miles from Bray, is regarded by some as a splendid sight, 
and by others as a mere plaything. When seen after a 
succession of wet days and nights, it has indeed some title 
to magnificence. In very dry weather the stream is defi- 
cient in quantity, and descends along the face of the cliff. 
In the immediate vicinity of the cascade, is a grassy nook 
much resorted to by pic-nic parties. It is related that on 
the occasion of George IV.'s visit to Powerscourt, a large 
tank was dug in the top of the hill, in order to ensure a 
good flow before royalty, but that his majesty did not find 
it convenient to visit the obliging waterfall. 

TIXNEHINCH HOUSE, half a mHe from Powerscourt 
on the Dargle, is the property of the descendants of the 
patriot and orator Henry Grattan. The Irish Parliament, 
appreciating the noble exertions of this wonderful man, 
purchased the property for him, in order that he might 
end in peace a life which had been so laborious. 

CHARLEVILLE, the handsome seat of Viscount Monck, 
closely adjoins those of Lord Powerscourt and Mr. Grattan. 
From this point, if time permitted, the tourist would enjoy 
a drive up Glencree 



78 EXCURSIONS fhom Dublin. 

GLENCREE joins the Dargle at the wooden bridge. At the head of the 
Glen will be seen Glencree Barracks, a solitary building occupied in the 
memorable '98 as a military station, but now used as a Roman Catholic 
Reformatory. It would be a variation of the road to send the conveyance 
round to Lough Bray Cottage, where, after a quiet walk up the glen, and a 
visit to the Loughs Bray, upper and lower, under the hill of Kippure (2473 
feet), the tourist could join it, and then take the military road as far as 
Sally Gap, where, adopting the left-hand road, a wild uninhabited region is 
passed over to the east of Luggala and Lough Tay, and then join the road 
about two and a quarter miles from Roundwood. By taking this detour, 
the car will require to travel about twenty miles from Bray to Roundwood, 
instead of thirteen by the regular road. 

LOUGHS BRAY, Upper and Lower, are situate on the side of the ridge 
of Kippure, one mile south of Glencree Barracks. The former, which is a 
dreary mountain-tarn, covers an area of 28 acres, at an elevation of 1453 feet 
above the sea. The situation of the lower lake is highly picturesque, being 
backed by rocks and crags of most fantastic shapes, relieved by the beauti- 
ful rustic cottage of Lough Bray, and its cultivated grounds, which extend 
to the margin of the lake. Kippure rises 1450 feet above the lower lake. 
Continuing still onward, we pass Crokan Pond to our left, and reach 

SALLY GAP, where the road to Blessington turns oflT at an acute angle 
to the right, and that to Luggala at an obtuse angle to the left, the direct 
military road to Laragh proceeding in a straight course before us. 

Blessington is about eleven miles from Sally Gap, or twenty-eight from 
Dublin. It is a market and post town, consisting of one well-built street, 
the work of Archbishop Boyle. The late Countess of Blessington, whose 
maiden name was Power, and who became so well known in the literary 
world, was bom at Curragheen in the county of Waterford, and married 
Charles John Gardiner, the last Earl of Blessington, who died in 1829. 
Blessington Park, the property of the Marquis of Downshire, is situated 
close by the town. 

A pleasant divergence of the route from Glencree to Roundwood is to 
take a by-path over the face of a hill to the right, which leads to a fine 
view of Lough Tay. It is somewhat difficult to find the path without 
assistance ; inquiry should therefore be made whenever the opportunity 
occurs. The pedestrian enters a field by a stile, and ascends in the direction 
of a larch plantation, which he passes on his left, and keeps a regular foot- 
path in the direction of the head of a valley, which appears on the same side ; 
crosses the head of this valley, and by a continuation of the same path, 
passes over the next mountain shoulder, until he comes in sight of Lough 
Tay, and discovers an extensive prospect spread out before him. Far under 
his feet is a plantation of larches, and at the west end of the nook he over- 
looks the Annamoe River, which conveys the surplus water from Lough 



LOUGH DAN. 79 

Tay to Lough Dan, of which he catches jnst a glimpse in the mountain cage 
which encloses it The house to the northern end of the lake, embosomed 
in trees and shruhs, and surrounded with grass sward, whose verdure 
contrasts strangely with the brown sterility around it, is 

LUGGALA LODGE * the property of Lord Powerscouxt. 
Moore's beautiful song, beginning Tsith the line 
" No, not more welcome the fairy numbers," 

was written to a very old air known as " Luggala." " On 
the eastern side of the valley was formerly one of those 
extraordinary drmdical remains called a ^ rocking stone/ 
used by the artful arch-druid for oracular purposes. A 
large stone was placed upon the top of another, so balanced 
that the smallest effort would shake it, and was supposed to 
be self-moved in the presence of a guilty person. In some 
cases, as on the Three Eock Mountains, in the county of 
Dublin, the culprit was placed under the stone, which was 
made to vibrate over his head, and threaten death at every 
instant. In the year 1800, a party of military passing this 
mountain dislodged the rocking-stone from its pedestal, and 
it now lies some yards from its original position, deprived 
unfortunately of its powers of motion.'* t 

LOUGH TAY receives its supply of water principally 
from the river Annamoe, which, just before entering it, 
falls down a rock close beside Luggala Lodge. It is situ- 
ated about 807 feet above the sea, is circular in form, 
about half a mile in diameter, and a mile and a half in 
circumference. The glen in whose upper end this lake is 
placed is about ten mUes in length, extending to Laragh. 

LOUGH DAN is situated two miles further down the 
glen, and has an elevation of 685 feet, beiag 122 feet 
lower than Lough Tay. It is a larger lake, and receives a 
portion of its supply from the Avonmore. This lake is 
surrounded with wild hills covered with heath and furze, 
the hill on its northern side being Knocknacloghole, 1754 
feet; on the east Slievebuckh, 1581 feet. 

* Jfass required from agency at Ennisiserry. f Wright's Wicklow. 



80 EXCURSIONS FROM DUBLIN. 

EOUNDWOOD {Hotels : Murpli/s ; Realty's), originally 
named Togha, is a small hamlet possessing little interest to 
the tourist save as a resting-place, with, two good country 
inns, where post horses can be had. It is also a good fish- 
ing station for the neighbouring lochs and streams. The 
town is situated in the midst of an immense tract of table 
land, about 700 feet above the sea. Tithewar, the seat of 
Mr. Nuttall, is near Koundwood, and is well planted. The 
reservoir for the supply of the new Dublin water-works, is 
situate near the village. It was constructed in 1863 by 
enclosing the waters of the Vartry. From here the tourist 
may return to Bray, either direct via the Dargle, a distance 
of about 14 miles, or round by Mount Kennedy (page 73), 
through the Glen of the Downs (page 80), about 17 miles. 
If it is not necessary to return to Bray the same day, he 
may also proceed to Annamoe (page 83), and the Seven 
Churches (page 85). 

The tourist who does not follow the route by Sally Gap, 
described in small print, but who, after visiting Powers- 
court and the Waterfall, proceeds direct to the Glen of 
the Downs, will take the road which turns to the left 
round the southern base of the Sugar Loaf (1659 feet), 
and, passing Glen Cottage, arrive at 

THE GLEN OF THE DOWNS. The glen is about a 
mile and a half in length, and 150 feet in width. For a 
considerable distance it runs along the foot of the Downs 
Mountain, which rises 1232 feet. The sides of the glen 
rise somewhat abruptly to a height of about 600 feet, and 
being closed with a dense covering of copsewood, a rich 
effect is produced. From the glen a view is obtained of 
the greater Sugar Loaf Mountain. There are two mountains 
bearing this name. These conical-shaped hills, which form 
a feature in Wicklow scenery, are said to have borne an 
Irish name meaning " the gilt spears," as they retained the 
light of the sun long after the rest of the landscape had 
been enveloped in the twilight, but their modern appel- 
lation is more matter of fact. The glen of the Downs is 



BRAY TO THE DEVIL'S GLiiiN. 81 

visited from Dublin for tlie beauties of Mr Latouche's 
clemesiie of Bellevue here. The Turkish Pavilion and 
Octagon are well placed on the brow of the glen, and 
afford most extensive views of the surrounding country 
and the sea. From the Glen of the Downs, the drive back 
to Bray is ^ye miles. 

BRAY TO THE DEVIL'S GLEN, THE SEVEN CHURCHES, 
AND VALE OF OVOCA, 

By Railway to Rathnew Station. 

Itinerahy — 

Bray by RaO to Rathnew Station - - - » 151 miles. 

Rathnew by Car to Devil's Glen - - . . H „ 

Devil's Glen „ Annamoe - . - . 6 „ 

Annamoe „ Laragb (Seven Churches) - - 3 „ 

Laragh „ via Avonmore to Rathdrmn Station 7 „ 

Rathdrum ,, to Meeting of the Waters - - 4 ,, 

Meeting of the Waters by Rail, return to Bray - - 28 „ 

To accomplish the above excursion, the tourist must 
take an early train from Bray and proceed to Kathnew sta- 
tion. There a car may be had to proceed either direct to 
the Devil's Glen or to the village of Ashford, which is 
contiguous to the glen, and where there is a comfortable 
inn. Near the latter place are the classic grounds of 
Rosanna, where Mrs Tighe composed the well-known poem 
of Psyche, and now the seat of Mr Tighe. The estate is 
one of the best wooded in the coimty. Supposing we 
proceed direct from Rathnew to the glen, the road ascends 
gradually, with beautiful hedgerows on either side, till the 
gate of Ballycurry demesne is reached (3 miles). The car 
may pass the first gate, but at the second the traveller 
must alight and proceed on foot up 

THE DEVIL'S GLEN, about a mHe and a half in 
length, and watered by the river Vartrey, which forms 
a beautiful cascade at its upper extremity. The country 
above the waterfall is flat and dreary, and we can scarcely 
expect, in passing over it, to find such a romantic nook as 
that which we now refer to. The glen is somewhat like 

G 



82 EXCURSIONS FROM DUBLIN. 

the Dargle in appearance, but more picturesque, of a more 
sombre cast, and on a grander scale— the rocks in some 
places rising 400 feet above the stream. The Devil's Glen, 
together with a great extent of land, stretching on one side 
to the sea, and reaching on the other from Eathdrum to 
Aughrim, Bally mores, and nearly to Arklow, was granted 
by the Earl of Pembroke to Lord Geoffrey de Monte- 
marisco, in exchange for the baronies of Forth and Bargy, 
in the county of Wexford. This territory was called by 
the Irish Mac-Morres's country — Lord Geoffrey himself 
having, in the year 1208, assumed the title of Mac-Morres, 
and the dignity of an Irish sovereign dynast. After the 
disgrace and banishment of Lord Geoffrey, his sons made 
scarcely any efforts to preserve this district, which was then 
of little value, being an uncultivated tract, remote from 
their usual places of residence, and inhabited by a few 
roving septs of semi-barbarians, who eventually established 
themselves in the Mac-Morres's country, and maintained 
possession until the seventeenth century. It latterly 
passed through the hands of the O'Briens, and the unfor- 
tunate Earl of Strafford, who received it from his patron 
Charles I. *^ By virtue of that grant. Earl Fitzwilliam at 
present enjoys a noble revenue from this part of the 
county Wicklow ; but the fee of the glen is divided be- 
tween Mr. Tottenham and Mr. Synge." In this glen, the 
redoubtable rebel Holt remained for some days, making 
preparations for the outbreak of 1798. "He appears, in 
more respects than one, during his short career, to have 
had the most marvellous escapes. Once, being wounded 
in the head, and finding himself surrounded by police, he 
boldly accosted one of them and enquired, ^ which way the 
army had gone V for that they * had robbed him of his hat 
and horse.' " After the defeat of the rebels, the glen be- 
came the hidiag-place of the scattered insurgents ; in order 
to get rid of whom it was found necessary to set fire to the 
timber, and the blackened stumps long bore witness to the 
extent of the conflagration. 



ANNAMOE. 83 

The pathway up the glen follows the left bank of the 
stream. The first halting-place is the Siunmerhouse, above 
which a series of steps leads up to a sheK of the rock where 
a fine view of the glen is obtained. Leaving the Summer- 
house, and proceeding up the glen, the last gate is reached. 
Here we enter on a meadow, but keeping near the side of 
the stream, at a short distance the waterfall comes into 
view. The tourist will observe a space between two 
boulders known as King O'Toole's window, through which 
the fall may be seen to full advantage. Scrambling up the 
side of the glen till the top of the declivity is attained, a 
fine prospect bursts on the view, including the fall, and in 
the distance the Wicklow mountains, among which Lug- 
naquilla (3039 feet) is the most prominent. Ketuming by 
the same path to the car in waiting, the tourist may pro- 
ceed to the Seven Churches via Ashford (page 85). From 
this a drive of seven miles will take us to the village of 

ANNAMOE. — It is situated on the rivulet of the same 
name which issues out of Lough Dan. Little can be said 
about the few thatched houses which compose the village, 
save that the place is to a certain extent interesting ground 
on account of the accident which nearly deprived the world 
of Uncle Toby, the poor Lieutenant, and Corporal Trim. 
Living at the barracks of Wicklow, in 1720, Laurence 
Sterne says in his autobiography — " From thence we de- 
camped to stay haK a year with Mr. Featherston, a clergy- 
man, about seven miles from Wicldow, who being a relative 
of my mother's invited us to his parsonage at Animo. It 
was in this parish, during our stay, that I had that wonder- 
ful escape of falling through a mill-race whilst the mill was 
going, and of being taken out imhurt. The story is incre- 
dible, but known for truth in all that part of Ireland, where 
hundreds of common people flocked to see me." A ruined 
water-mill is still shewn as that which was the scene of the 
accident. Whilst on the bridge at Annamoe, it would be 
well to take a look across the valley to a green knoll, about 
a mile distant, on which are situated 



84 



KXCTJRSIONS FROM DUBLO. 



THE EUINS OF CASTLE KEVIN.— TMs was from 
time immemorial tlie stronghold of the CTooles, who, with 
the O'Bymes, held the greater part of Wicklow. There can 
be little doubt that the ground upon which St. Kevin built 
his churches was originally granted to him by the then 
chief of the O'Tooles, though the conditions of the grant, 
and the manner of raising the structures, are perhaps not 
altogether correctly stated in the old traditions, prose and 
verse, to be met with. The castle, which is now in ruins, 
if supposed to have been built by the O'Tooles some time 
in the twelfth century, and to have remained principally 
in their hands until the end of the thirteenth. A little 
further on is the villacre of 




LAEAGH. 

Guides are in abundance in this village, and if not wanted, may prova 
annoying, unless their services are peremptorily declined. It will be neces- 
sary, in the event of retaining one, to come to a clear understanding with 
him, before setting off in his company. 

On the site of an old barrack, which was pulled down a 
few years ago, a church, a school, a constabulary barrack, 
and a mill, have been built by the proprietor, IVIr. Barton, 
a landlord uniformly and justly esteemed in the country. 
The village itself is beautifully situated at a spot where 
the vales of Laragh, Clara, and Glendalough meet. We 
turn to the right, through the village, passing the beauti- 
ful little property of Derrybawn, so calLed from the moim< 
tain under which it is situated. 



GLENDALOUGH. 85 

The road from Laragli now strikes westwards for a mile 
and a-jhalf, and passing the Seven Churches, on our left 
we reach 

GLENDALOUGH* {Hotel: Eoyal.) The vale of Glen- 
dalough, or " between the two lakes," is about three miles 
in length, and nowhere of any great width. If the tourist has 
time to spare, a pretty cascade, one or two minutes' walk 
from the inn, will be worthy of a visit. The hills which bound 
the valley on the north are Brockagh, Glendassan, and 
Comaderry (2296 feet). On the south, the boundaries are 
Derrybawn (1567 feet), Mullicap (2176 feet), and Lugduff 
(2148 feet). The river which feeds the lakes is the 
Gleneolo, which takes its rise in the mountains to the 
west. The vale is dark and cheerless even in summer, 
and being almost without a single tree, has a gloomy 
aspect. The principal attraction in the vale is the masa 
of ruins scattered over it, known by the name of 

THE SEVEN CHURCHES.— Many and curious are 
the traditions current, concerning the founder of a seat of 
learning in this lonely wilderness. One thread, however, 
runs through all the varied account. 

It appears that " he was bom in the year 498 ; was "baptized by St. 
Cronan ; received the first rudiments of his education from Petrocus ; was 
priested by Bishop Lugid. He was contemporary of Columbkille, and held 
constant intercourse with him, and other holy men of his day. He led a 
hermit life in an old place called Cluagn Duach, since called Glendalough 
(the valley of two loughs). He died on the 3d day of June 618, at the ag« 
of 120. The day of his death is yet commemorated in the place ^^jk patron. 
After his death, Dymnach, one of the lords of the surrounding territory, 
founded a cathedral church, with other buildings, which gradually sprung 
up into a city, the history of which is not extant, but the ruins exist, and 
tell its whereabouts, and attest the ancient legends." This much is 
authenticated history, but tradition fills up the rest, and asserts that poor 
Ke\dn was, like St. Anthony, tempted, though not by the father of evil, 
but by the lovely young Kathleen, who was so passionately enamoured of 
him, that she begged to be permitted even to live in sight of him, or, as the 
Irish poetically express it, " to look upon his shadow, to hear not even his 

• Glendalough and Seven Churches can be agreea"bly visited in one day 
from Wooden Bridge, by rail to Rathdrum, thence per car by Laragh and 
Clara, and home over the hill via Drumgoffi 



86 EXCURSIONS FROM DT7BLIN. 

roice, but its echo," promising at the same time that she would " lie like a 
dog at his feet, take penance for his sins, as well as her own, and even in 
prayer forget her own soul for the good of his." But the saint was proof 
against Cupid, or at least sought safety in flight, being frequently overtaken 
by his devoted worshipper, till at last he found refuge from her eyes in the 
hollow on the face of the rock overhanging one of the lakes. Even here 
she followed him, although the dangers attending the path had aU but 
baffled him ; and when he awoke on his hard rocky couch in the morning, 
the blue eyes of the infatuated Kathleen gazed softly on him through the 
tears which were almost frozen in them. 

" 'Twas from Kathleen's eyes he flew, 

Eyes of most unholy blue I 

She had loved him well and long, 

Wished him hers, nor thought it wrong. 

Wheresoe'er the saint would fly. 

Still he heard her light foot nigh ; 

East or west, where'er he tum'd, 

StiU her eyes before him burned." — Moork. 

One would naturally expect that a man of such pure religious feelings 
would have combined pity with his piety, and have done something to re- 
cover the mind of Kathleen from its error ; but instead of that, the tradition 
makes him pitch her over the face of the rock into the water beneath, 
where she was drowned. 

" Ah 1 your saints have cruel hearts I 

Sternly from his bed he starts. 

And with rude repulsive shock, 

Hurls her from the beetling rock. 

Glendalough, thy gloomy wave 

Soon was gentle Kathleen's grave ! 

Soon the saint (but ah I too late) 

Felt her love and mourned her fate. 

"When he said ' heaven rest her soul !' 

Round the lake light music stole, 

And her ghost was seen to glide. 

Smiling o'er the fatal tide. "—Moore. 

The erection of the Seven Churches is generally ascribed to St. Kevin ; 
it is more probable, however, that he merely lived as a hermit in the loca- 
lity, having charge of an abbey which he founded on the spot. The origin 
of the city, and its celebrity as a seat of learning, are attributed to ** St. 
Mocorog, a Briton, who, having learned the fame of St. Kevin, left his 
native country, and fixed his residence in a cell on the east side of Glenda- 
lough. Here a city soon sprung up, and a seminary was founded, from 
whence were sent forth many exemplary men, whose sanctity and learning 
diffused around the western world that light of letters and religion, which 
in earlier ages shone with so much brightness throughout this remote, and, 
at that period, tranquil isle, and was almost exclusively confined to it." 



THE ROUND TOWER 87 

" Dracolatria," or serpent worsliip, as an important 
element of ancient Irish paganism, must have flourished in 
this secluded valley for ages before the period of St. Kevin, 
judging by the legends, written and oral, still extant in 
reference to it. After the successful establishment of 
Christianity the locality retained its religious importance, 
and at a very early period, it was often plundered by the 
Danes, who began their outrages upon it in the beginning 
of the ninth century. In 1020 the city was reduced to 
ashes, and being rebuilt, was partly swept away by a flood, 
1177. In 1398 the invading English burnt down the 
city, whose importance was fast ebbing, and consequently 
it was never rebuilt. The hamlet is composed of a few 
miserable cottages, and therefore presents nothing of in- 
terest. The chief object of attraction in this spot is 

The Eound Tower. — This is one of the finest of the 
kind in Ireland. Its height is 110 feet, and circumference 
51, is built of granite and slate intermixed. Above the 
door are two small windows, and at the top are four more, 
as in that at Clondalkin. The statement, on the authority 
of more learned visitors, is, that these round towers were 
erected long before the arrival of St. Patrick in the island, 
that they were the temples of piety dedicated to the 
worship of the sun. The belief is, that the druid priest 
ascended to the top every morning, to watch for sunrise, 
and on catching the first glimpse of his rays, called out 
to the four corners of the earth, " Baal, Baal, Baal." It 
has already been mentioned in this work, that these relics 
have been considered by a good authority to be nothing 
more than bell*towers. The top of the tower is want- 
ing ; it was carried off by a storm early in the present 
century. 

St. Kjevin's Kitchen is the most perfect ruin now 
standing in the vale. It is a little building, 22 feet long 
by 15 wide. The roof is of slabs of stone. At the west 
end is a belfry, which may easily be mistaken for a chim- 
ney, and hence the title vulgarly applied to the building. 



88 EXCUESIONS FROM DUBUN* 

The Cathedral is situated at a short distance to th© 
nortli. 

Our Lady's Chapel. Both are very small buildings, 
particularly the former, when we consider the imposing 
title which it bears. They are very ancient, and Pelasgic 
or Cyclopean in style, and are most interesting specimens 
of early Irish architecture. 

The Ivy Church, or Trinity Church, is situated near 
the village of Laragh. Like the others, it is very small, 
and of rude construction. Beside it is a portion of a 
round tower. 

St. Saviour's Abbey is situated on the Derrybawn 
property. On architectural points, it is undoubtedly a 
very interesting ruin. In the wreck of rubbish which it 
has become, a number of beautifully carved stones is 
sometimes to be picked up. It is said that St. Kevin was 
buried here in 618, and some time ago, a tomb, supposed 
to be that of the saint, was discovered in a small crypt 
adjoining. The O'Tooles had for some years the appoint- 
ing of the bishop of Glendalough, and used the right of 
sepulture in the abbey. 

The Sacristy is a portion of the burying-ground set 
aside for the repose of Catholic clergy. It is believed by 
many ignorant people that a peculiar blessing rests on this 
ground, and that the body buried here is sure to rise again 
with its spiritual companion in happiness. 

In the burying-ground, and indeed scattered all ovei the 
valley, are stone crosses of various sizes. One in the 
cemetery is made of one piece of granite eleven feet high. 
It is believed that the lark has never been known to sing 
over the gloomy " vale of the two loughs," a statement 
easily credited, when it is recollected that larks prefer 
broad meadows and corn fields to deep rocky dells. Tra- 
dition has found another reason for the absence of the 
bird. 

Kolil, the German traveller, was told that "when the Seven Churches 
vere buOding, it ■'.'as the skylarlcs that used *Hvery morning to call the men 



BED OF ST. KEVIN. 89 

to their work. They had no watches in those days, and the song of the 
lark served as a signal that it was time to begin their labour. "Well, when 
the holy work was at an end, St. Kevin declared that no lark was worthy 
to succeed those pious birds that had helped in the building of the 
churches." The other version of the tradition is, that the men took an oath 
to "begin with the lark and lie down with the lamb ; " but the larks rose 
so early over the valley, as to cause them to rise long before they were re- 
freshed, and in consequence, many died from over exertion, which so 
touched the heart of St. Kevin, that he prayed that no lark might ever sing 
over the spot again, thus saving his labourers' lives and their oaths at the 
same time. 

The ruins we liave been describing are principally 
sitnated at the lower end of the 

Lower Lake, which is about a quarter of a mile long. 
It is generally said by guides to be that into which St. 
Patrick banished the last of the snakes, which may indicate 
the overthrow of serpent worship. This distinction, how- 
ever, is claimed by Croagh Patrick, in ]\Iayo, and by one of 
the tarns in the Gap of Dunloe, in County Kerry. Half a 
mile or little less above this is the 

Upper Lake, a mile in length, and celebrated as the 
scene of Kathleen's death. At its head are the works of 
a mining company, who have planted the hill behind their 
cottages with pine trees — a great improvement to the land- 
scape. On the south side of the Lake rises Lugduff Hill, 
and on a craggy face of it is situated the celebrated 

BED OF ST. KEVIN, to enter which has been the 
ambition of almost all tourists. The accompanying 
description of this retreat is by the late Eev. Caesar Otway. 

*' By this time we had rowed under Kevin's Bed, and landmg adjoining 
to it, ascended an inclined stratum of rock, to a sort of ledge or resting- 
place, from whence I and some others prepared to enter the Bed. Hero 
the guides make much ado about proposing their assistance ; but to any 
one who has common sense and enterprise, there is no serious difficulty, for, 
by the aid of certain holes in the rock, and points which you can easily 
grasp, you can turn into this little artificial cave, which, in fact, is not 
bigger than a small baker's oven ; and were it not that it hangs some twenty 
feet perpendicularly over the dark blue lake, this cavity, not larger than 
many a pig-stye I have seen excavated in the side of a bank, could not 
attract so many visitors. I and two young men who followed me, found 
it a very tight fit, when croueh(»d tosrether in it. At the further end there 



90 EXCURSIONS FROM DUBLIN. 

is a sort of pillow, and peculiar excavation made for the saint's head, and 
the whole of the interior is tattoed with the initials of such as have 
adventarod to come in. Amongst the many, I could observe those of Sir 
Walter Scott, Lord Combermere ; and of certain blue stocking dames, as, 
fcr instanoe, Lady Morgan, who made it her temporary loudoir." 

When Sir Walter Scott,"^inl825, "being tlien in declining 
health, visited Ireland, he was accompanied by his son-in- 
law, Mr. Lockhart, who says of St. Kevin's Bed — 

" It is a hole in the sheer surface of the rock, within which two or three 
people might sit. The difficulty of getting into this place has been 
exaggerated, as also the danger, for it would only be falling about twenty 
feet into veiy deep water. Yet I never was more pained than when Sir 
Walter Scott, in spite of aU remonstrances, would make his way to it, 
crawling along the precipice. He succeeded and got in ! After he was 
gone, Lord Plunkett, then Attorney-General, told the female guide he was 
a poet. * Poet ! * said she, ' the devil a bit of him, but an honourable gentle- 
man — ^he gave me half-a-crown.' " 

St. Kevin's Bed has been the shelter of the outlaw, as 
well as the abode of the saint. On the breaking up of the 
rebellion of 1798, a number of the outlaws under Dwyer 
dispersed themselves throughout the county of Wicklow, 
seeking shelter and protection where they could find it. 

Dwyer himself, being hotly pursued by a company of Scottish High- 
landers, took refuge in the cave, where the fatigues of his flight brought on 
sleep. The sure-footed Highlanders stole gently up to the mouth of the 
cave, and had almost entered when he awoke, sprung into the lake, swam 
to the opposite shore, and so escaped.! 

* Scott's autograph is shown by the guides prefixed by " Sir*' ! 
t Tlie conversation of the learned and facetious judge. Lord Norbury, 
with one of the guides on this subject is most amusingly recorded by thd 
celebrated Orofton Croker, who also edited the life of General Holt ol 
famous memory. " WeU," said Lord Norbury to his guide, " where is this 
Bed?" *' Plase your honour's worship, my lord, 'tis the hole m the rock 
there." ** Oh 1 I see. The saint was a holy man, fond of being rocked to 
sleep, eh ? " ** I have hard (heard) so, my lord." " Hard lying no doubt," 
was Lord Norbury's comment. *' Just the den for a rookite." ** Indeed, 
then, your lordship, before Captain Rock's time, the rebel Dwyer used to 
shelter himself in the Bed— General O'Dwyer, I mean ; and mighty proud 
he was of that same great O. Sure he would write it before his name so 
large, that it looked among the rest of the letters just like a turkey's egg in 
a hen's nest." " Very strange retreat for a rebel with so much Orange liking 
(lichen) about the cliff." -^*'Tis true for you, my right honourable lord, and 



VALE OF CLARA. 91 

Returning again from the valley to Laragh Village, we 
take a sharp wheel to the right, and enter the charming 

YALE OF CLAEA, throngh which flows the Avonmore 
river, swelled by the waters of Annamoe, Glenmacnass, 
Glendassan, and Glendalough. Our way for the first mile 
is by the great military road, which leads from Dublin to 
Drumgoff Barrack,*^ and thence by Aghavannagh to 
Baltinglass. On our right we pass under Derrybawn, and 
on our left Trooperstown Hill. The vale, which has little 
of the wild or striking in its character, is very beautiful, 
and affords an agreeable rest to the visitor after straining 
his eyes, and having his ears all but deafened by the 
vociferations of the guides. About three miles and a half 
from Laragh we come to Clara Bridge, but do not cross it. 
About a mile and a half further, Copse House, situated in 
a wood, is the property of Earl Pitzwilliam. The copse- 
wood extends from the base of Moneystown Hill along the 
Avonmore river to the vicinity of Eathdriun, a distance of 
fully three miles and a haK, being the largest in Wicklow. 
The road between Laragh and Clara Bridge is continued 
all the way on the bank of the Avonmore, which flows 
occasionally at our feet, and now and then is lost to view, 
owing to the elevation of the road. Approaching Copse 
House, however, we gradually separate from it, leaving it 

the Orangemen were near taking Dwyer." " Aye, near making D'Oyer and 
Terminer business of it ! " " But, plase your lordship, Dwyer leaped like 
a fairy." " A complete lep-rechaun that rascal." '* And a party of soldiers, 
my lord, on the top of the cliff." " What ! Highlanders ? " '' They were 
so, plase your lordship, and when they fired at Dwyer, he dived like a 
duck." "Yes ; ducked, and so got off Scot free?" " ! 'twas all right 
enough with him. He was up again winking his eye at the smoke." 
" Smoked them, tlid he ? Did not like their invitation to a Caledonian ball? 
There are divers other stories about your lake, no doubt?" "Plenty, my 
lord ; there's one by Moore." " No more at present ; that will do. Moore's 
songs haunt me as if I had murdered them in singing." — HalVs Eibernia 
niustrata. 

* There is a roAd over the hills from Laragh to Dramgoff Barrack (New 
Inn), which, though avoided by the carmen on account of its steepnesa, 
} some exquisite views of the surrounding country. 



92 EXCURSIONS FROM DUBLIN. 

a considerable distance at times to our left, until we enter 
the town of 

RATHDEUM, between six and seven miles from Laragli. 
Here there is little to stay for ; the town is agreeably situ- 
ated, but not attractive in itself. 

Seward says of this town that — "Near it was Bunum^ a city and capital 
of Menapii. It was the seat of the chiefs of Coulan, and called by the Irish 
Rathdruim, from whence the name Rathdrum." Rathdrum was formerly 
noted for flannel. The flannel hall is a huilding 200 feet in front, with a 
cupola. It is situated on Rathdrum Hill. 

Here the train can be taken, which follows the course 
of the river, and enters 

THE YALE OF OYOCA. The vale is weU planted, 
but has been somewhat disfigured by the mining works. 
The mansions of Avondale and Kingstown are passed on 
the right, and then appear the turrets of 

CASTLE HOWARD, the seat of Mr. Howard Brooke, 
standing on an eminence on the left of the river Avonmore, 
just above its famous junction with the Avonbeg. The 
river is crossed by a quaintly picturesque bridge known as 
the Lion Bridge. The entrance to the demesne is by a 
castellated gate, surmounted by a lion passant, the crest of 
the Howard family. The structure, which is plain and 
chaste, gains much in effect from its position on an eleva- 
tion of 200 feet above the river. The hills around are 
richly planted. The view from the esplanade embraces 
the surrounding hills and vale of Ovoca. The " Meeting 
of the Waters" is soon approached, where the Avonbeg 
unites with the Avonmore, and flows down the vale under 
the name of the Ovoca, amid projecting rocks, o'erhanging 
trees, and every adjunct to picturesque effect. The tourist 
is apt to expect too much from such a place, forgetting that 
when the national poet sung 

There is not in the wide world a valley so sweet 
As the vale in whose bosom the bright waters meet. 
Oh ! the last rays of feeling and life must depart, 
Ere the bloom of that valley shall fade from my heart 



THE VALE OF OVOCA. 93 

Yet it was not that nature had shed o'er the scene 
Her purest of crystal and brightest of green ; 
'Twas not her soft magic of streamlet or hill, 
Oh I no — it was something more exquisite stilL 

'Twas that friends, the beloved of my bosom, were near 
Who made each dear scene of enchantment more dear' 
And who felt how the best charms of nature improve. 
When we see them reflected from looks that we love. 

Sweet vale of Avoca ! how calm could I rest 

In thy bosom of shade with the friends I love best, 

Where the storms that we feel in this cold world should ce?-89 

And oui" hearts, like the waters, be mingled in peace — 

he was drawing as much npon imagination in all likelihood 
as upon nature ; and when we remember the lavishness of 
Moore's ideas, we must only be astonished to find nature 
so like poetry. The valley is indeed sweet, and cold must 
be the heart, and dull the head, which could pass through 
it unmoved ; but if the tourist does not wish to meet with 
a disappointment, he must not expect too much. 

It would be doing an injustice to the literature of Ireland, to pass the 
scene of one of Moore's most exquisite lyrics without a slight notice of the 
poet. It was a just eulogy which the editor of the Cyclopaedia of English 
Literature passed upon him when he said : — " A rare union of wit and sensi- 
bihty, of high powers of imagination and extensive learning, has been exem- 
plified in the works of Thomas Moore. " He was educated at Trinity College 
Dublin, and at the age of nineteen proceeded to the Middle Temple, London, 
to study law. A year afterwards, he published his inimitable translation of 
Anacreon. His works are justly and universally esteemed, whether in the 
walk of pure poetry or of keenest satire. Of the former, bis Lalla Rookh 
and Irish Melodies undoubtedly stand highest ; his satirical works, pub- 
lished under the title of Thomas Little, and his Fudge Family in Paris, are 
best known. Kohl, who being a stranger, may be supposed to be less pre- 
judiced than most British critics, thus beautifully alludes to the genius of 
the poet : — " There occur," says he, " in every literature short striking pas- 
sages that captivate the imagination with a force for which we find it difficult, 
oft impossible, to account. Millions of fine sentences may be expended in 
vain, v/hile two or three sentences may thrill for centuries in the hearts oi 
» nation. This is a power which Moore often exercises in a high degree, 
and to many a sequestered vale and ruined castle his verses have given a 
fame that will probably outlive monuments of bronze or granite." 



94 EXCURSIONS FROM DUBLIN. 

. It is difficult to convey a description of tlie Vale of 
Ovoca in terms to come up to the expectation of the reader, 
or even to the reality of nature. A notice of it, by the 
author already quoted, may be of some assistance to the 
expectant tourist. " Beautifully picturesque groups of 
oaks and beeches, everywhere hung with ivy, constitute 
one of the main beauties of the Vale of Ovoca. This, to 
some extent, is the character of all the valleys of Wicklow 
through which rivers flow, while the summits of the moun- 
tains and the unwatered vales remain completely bare. 
The Irish oak differs materially from the English oak ; 
yet this difference, so striking that you notice it at the 
first glance, is difficult to describe. The branches are less 
knotted and spreading. There seem to me to be more 
straight lines and fewer crooked ones ; more length and 
less breadth in the Irish oak." Another stranger, Prince 
Puckler Muskau, writes in glowing terms of the spot. 
" Just before sunset," he says, " I reached the exquisitely 
beautiful Avondale. In this paradise every possible charm 
is united. A wood, which appears of measureless extent ; 
two noble rivers ; rocks of every variety of picturesque 
form ; the greenest meadows ; the most varied and luxuri- 
ant shrubberies and thickets. In short, scenery changing 
at every step, yet never diminishing in beauty." An Eng- 
lish writer ^ gives a very different account of the place. 
" As to the * Meeting of the Waters,' " he writes, " as the 
Irish are pleased to call the confluence of two little streams, 
pompously or poetically as you may please to decide, I 
think more has been made of it than either the waters or 
their meeting deserve. There are, in fact, two places in 
the valley where two streams meet, one towards the lower 
end, where the scenery is rich and beautiful, the other, 
which I was assured to be the * riglar ' meeting, was higher 
up the vale ; and I confess, on arriving at it, I was 
disappointed, and could not hesitate in giving preference 
to the place of the conflu£nx\e of the two streams we had 
• Mr. Barrow. 



WOODEN BRIDGE. 95 

passed lower down." In tlie neighbourliood are copper 
and snlpliur mines, tliat of Cronbane producing black- 
copper ore and pyrites. The valley is about eight miles 
in length, when we arrive at 

WOODEN BRIDGE {Wooden Bridge Hotel) Just before 
the door of the hotel, the second or lower meeting of the 
waters takes place — the river Aughrim here flowing into 
the Ovoca. This spot is supposed by some to be the scene 
of the poem, and many and fierce are the contests between 
the partisans of the spots for the honour of Moore's patronage. 
In a letter written to a friend by the author, and published 
in his memoirs and journal, he says : — " The fact is, I 
wrote the song at neither place ; though I believe the 
scene under Castle Howard (first meeting), was the one 
that suggested it to me. But all this interest shews how 
wise Scott was in connecting his poetry wdth beautiful 
scenery. As long as the latter blooms so will the 
former." 

Gold is to be found on Croghan Kinshela, a hill situate 
about 3|- miles to the south-west of Wooden Bridge. A 
small brook, which joins the Ovoca at the bridge, flows 
through the auriferous district. At the end of last century 
the government realised about ^3700 out of the gold mines 
here. 

From Wooden Bridge the tourist may return by train 
direct to Bray, or proceed to Arklow (page 101) and Ennis- 
corthy (page 103), and thence to Wexford (page 103). 

An agreeable day's excursion from here may also be made to Glendalongh 
and tbe Seven Clmrclies. Taking tbe train to Rathdrmn, where cars will 
be found in waiting, the tourist should proceed by Lara and Clara, and home 
over the hill to Drumgoflf Inn and thence to Wooden Bridge. In hiring 
at Rathdrum the route should be stipulated for. 



96 EXCURSIONS FKOM DUBLIN. 



BRAY TO WICKLOW, WOODEN BRIDGE, LUGNAQUILLA, 

ARKLOW, ENNISCORTHY, AND WEXFORD. 

BY RAILWAY. 

Itinerary, 



Miles. 
Bray to Delgany - - - 5 
Delgany to M. Kennedy - 2| 
M. Kennedy to Newrath - 5| 
Newrath to Wicklow - - 2| 



Mile.i 
Wicklow to Avoca - - 15 
Avoca to Arklow - - 6 

Arklow to Enniscorthy - 29 
Ennis. by coach to Wexfoi-d H 



Lea\TJig Bray by railway, the first station is Delgany, 
from which the Glen of the Downs (page 80) is one and a half 
mile distant due west. The next halting-place is Kilcool, 
two miles from which is Newtown M. Kennedy. It is situ- 
ated in a rich tract of country, extending from the foot of 
Downs Mountain, and bounded by the sea. This was the 
Bcene of an encounter in 1798 between the rebels and the 
king's troops under Lords Kingsborough and Rossmore, in 
which the former met with a signal defeat. The domain 
of Mount Kennedy, formerly the property of Sir Eobert 
Kennedy, was purchased from him by the late Lord 
Rossmore, at that time General Cunningham, who converted 
it from waste land into a beautiful property. The present 
proprietor, R. G. Cunningham, Esq., permits visitors to 
pass through the grounds on week days. In the immediate 
vicinity are the domains of Glendaragh and Altadore. 

Proceeding from Kilcool we arrive at Killoughter, the 
station for the Devil's Glen (page 81), and for Newrath 
(Inn : The Newrath — bed Is. 8d. to 2s., breakfast Is. 8d. to 
2s., lunch 9d. to Is., dinner 2s. to 3s., tea Is., supper Is., 
attendance Is., private room 2s. 6d.), situated in the centre 
of v/hat has been happily termed the Garden of Wicklow. 
The Inn at Newrath Bridge is, out of Bray, one of the 
best in the county of Wicklow. About a mile from New- 



WICKL OW&W EXFORP 



'!■ • ( 







British- 3Iile 8 



WICKLOW. 97 

rath is Asliford (page 81), where there is also a good inn. 
The next station we come to is 

WICKLOW. — Like most other harbours on the east 
coast of Ireland, Wicklow is guarded by a sea bar. on which 
the water seldom exceeds seven or eight feet. This being 
an assize town, it contains the gaol, conrt-house, and in- 
firmary. The trade is limited to fishing and exportation 
of coal and lime. The town gives the title of Earl to the 
family of Howard. " Here," says Seward, " is a rock, by 
some taken for the remains of a castle surrounded by a 
strong wall ; there are but few buildings, yet it has a bar- 
rack, and is remarkable for the best ale in the kingdom." 
About a mile and a haK to the east is a bold point of land 
called Wi'cHow Head. 

After leaving Wicklow, the train proceeds to Eathdruu; 
(page 92). Here the tourist who \\dshes to ascend Mount 
LUGNAQUILLA leaves the train and proceeds by car 
seven miles up the river Avonbeg to the village of Druni- 
goflP, where there is a hotel and barracks. The ascent should 
not be attempted without the assistance of a guide, which 
can easily be secured at the hotel. This being the highest 
hill in the county (3039 feet above the sea level), it com- 
mands a wide and varied panorama, which will be better 
explained by the guide than any written account can do. 
The following paragraph from the pen of Mr. Wright, than 
whom no one knows more of the country, will be appreci- 
ated by those who cannot place implicit reliance on Irish 
guides. " From this elevated station," he writes, " in 
clear weather, parts of five counties are clearly seen. And 
Mr. Weaver states that the Galtee Mountains in Tipperary 
have sometimes been perceived ; but such extensive pro- 
spects can only be enjoyed by those who have frequent 
opportunities of ascending, and the good fortune to meet 
with a cloudless atmosphere. Towards the north, Kippure 
and the Great Sugar Loaf raise their towering summits to 
the clouds, beyond a lengthened chain of waste and barren 

H 



98 KXCURSIONS FROM DUBLIN. 

mountains. To the west and soutli is an extent of culti- 
vated country, and to the east are seen mountain and vale, 
wooded glens, and rapid rolling rivers, bounded in the dis- 
tance by St. George's Channel. On the north side of Lug- 
naquilla is an enormous excavation or chasm, forming the 
termination of the glen of Imale, called the * North Prison,* 
to distinguish it from a similar precipitous hollow on the 
opposite or south side, termed the ' South Prison.' The 
fronts of these bold cliffs are composed of granite, broken 
into large square blocks, appearing ready to separate, and 
tumble from their uncertain rests upon the least concus- 
sion." In the inaccessible crags over the fine mountain 
valley or glen of Imale, the eagle is sometimes seen hover- 
ing about protecting its nest. With the exception of a 
few bald spots near the top, the whole of Lugnaquilla is 
like a soft carpet. In descending this mountain the visitor 
should make for the waterfall, and thence keep down Glen- 
malure to the inn at Drumgoff. On his way he passes 
through a glen, *^ not unlike the glen of the Horse on 
Mangerton, in the county of Kerry. One of its sides is 
composed of perpendicular pillars of granite blocks, regu- 
larly formed and laid over each other, like columns of 
basalt. A person may stand on the top of one of them, 
and look down its perpendicular side to the very bottom 
of the glen. It was here that an ill-fated outlaw, in attempt- 
ing to escape from a party of military, pushed his horse at 
full speed down the mountain side, and being unable to rein 
him when he reached the precipice, both horse and rider 
went headlong down the steep, and perished at the instant 
they reached the bottom." The road from Drumgoff to the 
Seven Churches (page 8 5). is allowed to be one of the 
most interesting in the county. After attaining a consi- 
derable elevation, it passes the " lovely glen of Ballyboy," 
rich in "pastoral beauty ;" and commands from its higher 
elevations a succession of lovely mountain views. The 
distance from Drumgoff to Glendalough (page 85) is seven 
miles. If the traveller wishes to return to Rathdrum, the 



WOODEN BRIDGE. 99 

same road as he came by is followed ; but if it 1& preferred 
to go to Wooden Bridge, 8 miles from Drumgoff, he 
will proceed first along the left side of the Avonbeg river 
for about a mile and a half, ana then cross to the right 
bank above Ballinacor House, the residence of Mr. Kemmis. 
Glenmalure was held in the time of Queen Elizabeth by a 
rude chieftain, Pheagh MacHugh O'Byme of Ballinacorj; 
who kept court here like a monarch. In 1580 he defeated 
with much bloodshed Lord Grey de Wilton in the vale of 
Glendalough. In 1597, however, he was killed in an 
engagement with Lord Deputy Eussell. It was while in 
Glenmalure that Holt, the leader of the Wicklow insur- 
gents in the rebellion of '98, received the conciliatory 
letter from General Sir John Moore. In descending the 
glen many pretty cascades, formed by tributary streams on 
their way to swell the Avonbeg, are passed. Proceeding 
onwards, we follow the course of the Avonbeg until we 
reach the first " meeting of the waters," where it joins the 
Avonmore, forming the Ovoca. From this point we return 
to the Wooden Bridge Inn along the " sweet vale of Ovoca." 
The charms of the vale are somewhat disfigured by the ob- 
trusive presence of the copper mines of Ballymurtagh on 
the right bank of the river and Cronebane on the left. 

Wooden Bridge (31 miles from Bray). See also page 95. 

The river Avonbeg, which, uniting with the Avonmore 
under Castle Howard, forms the first " meeting of the 
waters," passes down Glenmalure ; and the Aughrim river, 
from the glen of the same name, uniting with the Ovoca, 
forms the second meeting at the Wooden Bridge. The 
road proceeds up the right bank of the Aughrim river as 
far as Coates Bridge, a distance of about three miles. The 
right bank is bare and uncovered, and crowned with the 
ruined church of Ballintemple ; but the left side is beauti- 
fully wooded. The village of Aughrim * is pleasantly situ- 
ated in the glen of Aughrim, which, properly so called, 
begins here, and stretches in a north-westerly direction- 
almost parallel with Glenmalure, until it is terminated b^ 

* Branch line to Augtrira. Tinnahely, and SliiHelash. 



100 EXCURSIONS FROM DUBLIN. 

the lofty Liignaqnilla (page 97). In the glen, General 
Holt had an engagement with the king's forces in 1789, 
which he celehrates in his memoirs. The account may be 
interesting as describing the mode of warfare practised by 
these wild disturbers. " I had my battle of Aughrim," 
says he, " as well as General Ginkle, and in order to dis- 
tinguish between them, I call it ^ Holt's battle of Aughrim.' 
I issued orders that the men should be silent and steady, 
and not leave their post or line of march on any account;^ 
reminding them of the mischief they had suffered from the 
want of discipline, and the victories they had achieved by 
a contrary conduct. We advanced in quick time, and soon 
came within sight of Aughrim. I took a post on the side 
of Rodena Hill ; John MacEvoy was my aid-de-camp this 
day. Standing by my side, he saw the enemy present 
their muskets, and calling out ^ down every man,' we all 
fell instantly. The enemy fired, and the ground was cut 
just above us with their balls. I never saw a better di- 
rected volley, but it did us no mischief. We were soon 
on our feet, and returned the compliment with some effect. 
I then ordered 150 of my men down to the river side, to 
get into the wood, but not to fire a shot till Go wan had 
advanced as far as Eodena Bridge, and then to get behind 
him and the barrack. The party were not steady, and 
fired too soon, and the enemy perceiving themselves at- 
tacked from the wood, instantly retreated, both horse and 
foot, into the town." The entire length of the glen from 
Wooden Bridge to Lugnaquilla is thirteen miles. 

Ijeaving Ovoca station for Arklow, the railway fol- 
lows the Ovoca. On the one side we have a wooded hill, 
with steep faces covered with ferns, mosses, and golden 
saxifrages, over which trickle innumerable streams of 
limpid water. On the other side we look down into the 
Ovoea, just at its junction with the wild wandering river 
from the west, and continue along its margin till we 
reack the domain of 



ARKLOW. 101 

SHELTON ABBEY, tlie seat of tlie Eail of Wicklow. 
About a mile and a half from Arklow is the public entrance^ 
by which the tourist may freely enter to view the pointed 
Gothic structure and the noble park. Beyond this point, 
the scenery becomes of a tamer cast, and gradually loses its 
picturesque character before we reach 

ARKLOW {Hotel: Kinsela's.) The town, which has a 
population of 5000 persons, is situated on the sea coast, and 
from its position would undoubtedly assume an important 
position as a port but for the occurrence of a sand-bar, 
similar to that which obstructs the navigation of the Liffey. 
Owing to the banks and oysters beds which lie off the coast 
here, Arklow is one of the most important fishery stations 
in Ireland, and this industry gives employment to one-half 
of the inhabitants In the year 1872 there were as many as 
358 boats, manned by 1934 men and boys, engaged in the 
herring and oyster fishing, and the produce for that period 
is said to have amounted to 20,000 mease (containing 635 
fish) of herring, realising £14,000, and 16,000 barrels of 
oysters, valued at .£14,400. 

The first object which catches the visitor's atten- 
tion, as he nears the town from the direction of Wooden 
Bridge, is a part of the old castle of the Ormonds, now re^ 
duced to a complete ruin, and containing in its interior a 
constabulary barrack. The castle was built by the fourth 
Lord Butler of Ireland, Theobald Fitzwalter. 

It " was formerly a place of strength and consequence, and the scene 
of much bloodshed. In 1331, it was taken by the O'Tooles, who were shortly 
after driven from the place by Lord Birmingham, who defeated them with 
great slaughter. It was again taken by the Irish, but surrendered to the 
English, on the 8th of August 1332. In 1641, the garrison was surprised 
by the Irish, and every one put to the sword. In 1649, the castle was de- 
molished by Cromwell" 

At Arklow a battle was fought in 1798 between the 
English under General Needham, and the rebels. The 
latter are believed to have exceeded 31,000 in number, 
while the conquerors only numbered 1500. A monastery 



102 EXCURSIONS FROM DUBLIN, 

was founded by Fitzwalter, for " tLe iove of God and the 
Blessed Virgin, and for tlie health of the souls of Henry II. 
king of England, King Richard, King John, and other per- 
sons." The monks were believed to be of the Cistercian 
order, from Fumess, Abbey in Lancashire. The founder, 
who died at the castle in 1285, was buried in the Abbey- 
church. No vestiges of the monastery now remain. The 
town consists of but one principal street, in which are 
situated the church, the inn, and the better class of 
shops. 

Proceeding on our journey, at two miles and a half 
beyond Arklow, the railroad crosses the boundary of the 
two counties and enters Wexford. The drive to Gorey is 
through ten miles of uninteresting country, and from 
thence to Ferns, through Camolin, it becomes less mono- 
tonous. Ferns, though now sunk into insignificance, was 
once the capital of the kingdom of Leinster and the archi- 
episcopal see of the province. It was here that the traitor 
MacMorrogh held court. A church is said to have been 
founded here in 598 either by St. Mogue or St. Eden. 
The present cathedral, which is used as a parochial church, 
is a plain building of considerable antiquity, but repaired 
and altered in 1816. A monument, incorrectly supposed 
to be that of the original founder, representing hiTn in his 
ecclesiastical robes, in a recumbent position, is in the 
church. The ruins of an abbey, said to have been founded 
by Dermod MacMorrogh, are closely adjacent to the church. 
The palace of MacMorrogh was situated on the top of the 
hill, on the sides of which the town now stands. Strong- 
bow is supposed to have fortified and otherwise strengthened 
the position of his father-in-law, and its site is still occu- 
pied by an imposing ruin of more recent construction than 
the conquest of the "Green Isle," and which was dis- 
mantled by the Parliamentary forces, under Sir Charles 
Coote, in the civil war of 1641. MacMorrogh died at 
Ferns in May 1171, and is believed to have been interred 
in the abbey. Eight miles south of Ferns we arrive at 



ENNISCORTHT. 103 

ENmSCOKTHY'' (Botel : Nuzam's), a thriving little 
town belonging to tlie Earl of Portsmouth., boldly situ- 
ated on tbe side of a steep hill above the river Slaney^ 
which here becomes navigable for barges of large size. 
To the east, overlooking the town, is '* Vinegar Hill," 
of bloody memory, where the main force of the in- 
surgents encamped during the rebellion of 1798, which 
commenced in the adjoining counties, but spread T\i.th 
increased fury into the county of Wexford. It was 
here that the monstrous barbarities took place which the 
otherwise moral and kind-hearted peasantry were induced 
by religious fanaticism and oppression to commit. On the 
top of the hill was an old windmill, which served as a 
prison for the victims previous to their execution. About 
400 persons were here, in cold blood, put to death with 
pikes by the undisciplined rebels. The old castle, a mas- 
sive square pile with a round tower at each comer, owes 
its origin to Eaymond le Gros, and is one of the earliest 
military structures of the Anglo-Norman invaders. The 
railway from Enniscorthy keeps to the right bank of the 
river, and passes through some highly picturesque country. 
At Macmine Junction connection is obtained with Bagnals- 
town and Carlow, and after passing the village of Eallurin 
we enter the town of 

WEXFOKD {Hotels: White's, and TheWestgate) 15 miles 
fiom Enniscorthy, and, like it, situate on the river Slaney. 
To enjoy the scenery of this fine river a boat may be taken 
between the two towns, by which means its picturesque 
banks will be seen to full advantage. The most interest- 
ing object, however, is the square keep, which is all that 
remains of Carrick Castle, which may be easily visited 
from Wexford, being about two miles from that town. It 
is picturesquely situated on the summit of a rock close to 
the river, and was the fijcst castle built by the English in 

* A pleasant drive may be taken from here to New Ross, 18 miles 



104 EXCURSIONS FSOM DUBLIIS. 

Ireland. MacMorrogli having proceeded to besiege Dublin, 
is recorded to have left Fitz-Stephen behmd him, who 
busied himself with the erection of a castle. 

The translator of Giraldus Cambriensis says — "It was at first made but 
of rods and wiffes, according to the manner in these daies, but since builded 
with stone, and was the strongest fort then on those parts of the land, but 
being a place not altogether sufficient for a prince, and yet it was thought 
too good and strong for a subject, it was pulled down, defaced, and razed, 
and so dooth still remaine/' 

Wexford, the county town, is picturesquely situated on 
the shores of the harbour of the same name, which is about 
eight miles in length by three in breadth ; but in conse- 
quence of the existence of a bar at the mouth of the har- 
bour, no vessel of more than 200 tons burthen can enter 
it from the sea. The borough, which returns one member 
to Parliament, contains a population of 11,8 00 persons, only 
900 of whom are Protestants. The town was at one time en- 
closed within walls, the remains of which can still be traced. 
The most interesting ruin in the place is that of the Abbey 
of St. Sepulchre, corrupted into " Selsker," and near which 
is the modern parish church. The first treaty between the 
Irish and English was signed here in 1169. A college 
exists in the town for the education of the Catholic clergy. 
" Wexford," says Kohl, " during the last rebellion was the 
scene of almost unexampled atrocity." 

It is studded with the ruins of castles and churches 
founded by the early Anglo-Norman invaders, who here 
made their first landing in Bannow Bay. 

" There is a bridge built over a narrow part of the bay. To this bridge 
the rebels, then in possession of the town, brought their English and Pro- 
testant prisoners, and flung them into the water. Mulgrave, in his cele- 
brated ' Memoirs of the Irish Rebellion,' now rarely to be met with, says 
that the prisoners were speared, at the same moment from before and be- 
hind, and then lifted up on pikes and thrown over the parapet of the bridge. 
These are matters yet fresh in the memory of li\1ng men." 

The barony of Forth, a district oT Wexford inhabited by 
ft race of people very diff'erent from the rest of Ireland in 



NEW ROSS. 105 

habits and appearance, is a little distance sontli of the 
county town. It is believed that the district was colonized 
by Strongbow, from Wales. Valiancy published a vocabu- 
lary of their language, which bears more resemblance to 
Saxon than to either the English or Celtic. Very few of 
the natives, however, have now any knowledge of their 
ancient language. 

Fethard, a now insignificant fishing village, stands on 
the west shore of Bannow Bay, about 25 miles from 
Wexford. A little distance from it are the remains of 
Tintern Abbey, founded in 1200 by the Earl of Pembroke, 
son-in-law of Strongbow. The legend states that, being in 
great danger at sea, he made a vow to found an abbey on 
the spot w^here he should land in safety. His boat found 
shelter in Bannow Bay, and here he accordingly established 
a monastery, which he peopled with monks from Tintern 
Abbey in Monmouthshire. It is beautifully situated in the 
demesne of Tintern, which was granted by Queen Eliza- 
beth to Sir Anthony Culclough, in whose family it still 
remains. The venerable ruins of the ancient church of 
Bannow, on the opposite side of the bay, are of much inte- 
rest. A curious case of land depression is Lolieved to have 
extinguished the town of Bannow, which consisted two 
centuries ago of no less than nine principal streets, with 
well-built houses. Four centuries earlier it was one of the 
principal sea-ports in Ireland. An interesting assemblage 
of ruins exists at the extremity of the bay, known as the 
" Seven Churches of Clonmines," but really the remains of 
four castles and an abbey ; the town which is supposed 
to have existed here has entirely disappeared. 

NEW ROSS (Shannahan's) is an ancient town situated in 
the west of the county, on the river Barrow, about 20 miles 
from Wexford. The foundation of this place is usually ascrib- 
ed to Lady Rose, daughter of Crume, King of Denmark. New 
Ross had a full share in the horrors of '98, " The battle 
of Ross," and the various incidents connected with it, have 



106 



EXCURSIONS FROM DUBLIN. 



been handled more than once by the historian and novelist. 
The insurgents, numbering from 20,000 to 30,000 men, 
were here defeated by the garrison, consisting of about 1200 
militia and 150 yeomen, imder the command of Major 
General Johnson.* 

In returning to Dublin from New Ross, the shortest route is by road to 
Tbomastown station, about 12 miles ; and thence by rail through Kilkenny 
to the metropolis. But if the tourist intends going westwards, the coach 
to Waterford (14 miles) must be taken, and thence by raU to Tipperar}% 
Cork, etc. 



ELEVATIONS OF PRINCIPAL MOUNTAINS IN THE COUNTIES 
DUBLIN AND WICKLOW. 



DUBLIN COUNTY. 

Feet 

Three Rock Mountain - - - 1585 

Larch Hill 1339 

TaUaughtnm- ----- 1306 

SlieveThoul 1303 

HiUofHowth 563 

Killiney HiU 472 

WICKLOW COUNTY. 

Lugnaquilla 3039 

Kippure 2473 

DufiMll 236i 

Tonelage 2307 

Table Mountain 2306 

Black Rocks 2296 

War Hill 2250 

MaUacop ....... ^176 



Croaghanmoira 2175 

Lugduff 2148 

Scar 2105 

Croghan Ktnsella - - - - 1985 

Crockan Pond ------ 1770 

Knocknacloghole - - - . 1754 

Derrybawn 1567 

Blackmoor Hill 1464 

Trooperstown Hill - . - - 1408 

Downs Mountain 1232 

LAKES IN WICKLOW. 

Lough Bray, Upper - ^ . - 1453 

— Lower - - - . 1229 

Ouler 1127 

Tay 807 

Dan 685 



* N.B. — Should the tourist desire to extend his trip southward from here, 
he can make a pleasant excursion to Waterford by taking the little steamer 
which leaves New Ross every morning. It performs the voyage in two 
hours, and the sail down the river Barrow presents many attractions, io 
good weather. 



J 



KILLAENEY 

AND 

THE SOUTH OF IEELAIn^D, 

BY 

GREAT SOUTHEEN AXD WESTERN RAILWAY. 

[Station — Kingsbridge, Dublin, ] 

ROUTES FROM DUBLIN TO KILLARNEY. 

PAGE 

Via MaUow Junction by railway direct - - - 129 

Via Cork by rail, thence per rail to Dnnmanway, and 

coacn via Glengariff - - - - 205 

Via Cork by rail, thence per rail and coach ma Macroom 

and Glengariff - - ... 209 



108 



I. -FROM DUBLIN TO CORK, THROUGH KILDABE, QUEEN'S COUNTY 
TIPPERARY, COUNTY LIMERICK, AND COUNTY CORK, BY GREAT 
SOUTHERN AND WESTERN RAILROAD 



ON EIGHT FROM 
DUBLIN. 



Inchicobe House. 



it$ Chapelizod 1 m. 
A \4Ilage on the river 
Liffey, celebrated as 
the encampment of 
Brian Boroimhe in 989; 
and William IIL in 
1690, after his victory 
on the Boyne. 

Ballyfeemot, castle 
and church. The latter 
dedicated to St. Law- 
rence. 



LucAN Chuech. a 
plain parish church 
with a spire. 

•CJ Leixlip village is 
B miles distant. Both 
Lucau and Leixhp 



a^ 



1641 



163i 



162| 



161J 
160i 



158^ 
1571 



STATIONS, ETC. 



Dublin. 
KingsbridgeTerminus. 



Clondalkin. 

The name of the village 
is supposed to be de- 
rived from a church 
founded by St. Mo- 
chua, called Cluain 
Dolcain, 



•o Lncan 

1^ m. distant. The 
demesne was the pro- 



si 



ON LEFT FROM 
DUBLIN. 



n 



3^ 



^ 



ei 



Royal Hospital ofi 

KiLMAINHAM, OU the 

site of Priory of the 
Knights Hospitallers. 
The renowned Brian 
Boroimhe spent the 
last year of his life in 
the \allage. 

Locomotive Dep6t 
AT Inchicoee. The 
sheds are very spa- 
cious, and generally 
admired. Coke ovens 
and workshops at- 
tached. 

Row of cottages for 
workmen on the line. 

Jamestown House. 



Round tower seen from 
the line. Eighty-four 
feet in height. One of 
the most perfect in 
Ireland. 

Clonbueeis. 

The piantations of 
Castlebaggot, the 
seat of Mr. Baggot, 
are seen. 



109 
FROM DUBLIN TO CORK, kc- Continued. 



ON EIGHT TROM 
DUBLIN. 



should be visited by 
the Midland and Great 
Western Uailway. 



Castletown. The 
fine seat of Mr.Conolly. 

•€> Celbridge, 1 m. 
distant. So named from 
St. Bridgid's Chapel. 
Vanessa, one of Swift's 
loves, resided for some 
time at Celbridge Ab- 
bey, the residence of 
H.* Grattan, Esq. 



KiLLADOON. The seat 
of the Earl of Leitrim. 



Castle Billok. 



155i 
154| 



153| 



1531 



1521 



161i 



11491 



STATIONS, ETC. 



perty of General Sars- 
tield by James II, 
created Earl of Lucan, 
lormerly a place of 
note, owing to its spas, 



Hazelhatch and 
Celbridge. 

About four m. dis 
tant is the magnificent 
seat of the Duke 
of Leinster, Cakton 
It is well planted and 
watered. The tym- 
panum on the portico 
in front of the mansion 
is ornamented with the 
family arms. A good 
collection of paintings 
in the interior. Gar- 
dens in Italian style 
The demesne can' be 
seen on week days. 



Enter the county Kil- 
dare. Area 418,436 
acres ; pop. 84,198. 



Straffan. 

The mansion-house be- 
longs to H. Burton, 
Esq. 



IH 



12 



131 



15i 



ON LEFT FKOM 
DUBLIN. 



Lyons, the handsome 
seat of Lord Cloncurry, 
infrontof Lions Hill, 
wliichrises 657feet — is 
wen planted, and iso- 
lated. The castle on 
the site of an ancient 
mansion. Wings con- 
nected to centre by 
colonnades. Contains 
some fine frescos and 
sculptures. 



Oughtekard, a vil- 
lage with the same 
name as one in th©| 
county Galway. The' 



110 
FROM DUBLIN TO CORK, ^.-Cotrtinued. 



ON EIGHT FKOM 
DUBLIN. 



Sherlockstown. 



•€• Clats'e, 2^ m. 
distant. During the 
6th century an abbey- 
existed here. Clane, 
supposed to be from 
Cluaine, meaning a 
sanctuary. 



Hill op Allen is 
seen, situated in the 
bog of the same name, 
800 feet. Supposed to 
be the scene of one of 
Ossian's Poems, and 
residence of Fin-Mac- 
Coul. It is seen 
about 10 miles oft, 
and is .recognised by 
the tower which sur- 
mounts it. 



148 



1471 



1461 



146J 



1451 



1401 



STATIONS, ETC. 



^^ cr. Grand Canal. 

The bridge is con- 
structed of wood. 

Sallins. 
j^:^ cr. Grand Cankl. 



Line passes ' througli 
the hill of Obees- 



JS^ cr. river liffey, 
which here flows in a 
somewhat northerly 
direction. Bridge built 
of timber, 21 feet high 
and 270 feet long. 



161 



17 



18 



181 



24 



ON LEFT EEOM 
DUBLIN. 



Hill of the same 
name is 488 feet high ; 
and on its summit has 
the remains of a round 
tower. On other parts 
are various ecclesias- 
tical remains. 

Palmeestown Ho. 
Seat of the Earl of 
Mayo. 



PUNCHESTON StCSple- 

chase race-course 4 
m. from Sallins. 



Naas, 2 m. dist. |& 
was the residence of 
the Kings of Leinster 
long before the period 
of Strongbow. " In its 
immediate neighbour- 
hood, and forming a 
singular and strilong 
object, are the remains 
of Jigginson, a build- 
ing commenced upon 
an enormous scale by 
the unfortunate Earl 
of Strafford." 
The Castle the pro- 
perty of the De Burghs 
of Oidtown. 

Old ConnellAbbet, 
about a mile and a half 
from Newbridge sta- 
tion. Dedicated in 1202 
by the founder, M, 
Fitzhenry, to the Vir- 
gin and St. David. 
Though the priors were 
in their day peers, and 
even privy councillors, 
nothing uow remains 



Ill 

FROM DUBLIN TO CORK, he. ^Continue a. 



ON BIGHT TEOM 
DUBLIN. 



The Cubeagh, 
Famous in the annals 
of horse-racing. This 
was an ancient race- 
course ; Sir William 
Temple was the means 
of obtaining a Govern- 
ment grant of £100 to 
be run for annually, 
"with a view to im- 
prove the breed of 
Irish horses." It is 
six miles by two, con- 
taining 4858 statute 
acres. " It is a fine 
sod for the diversions, 
and if it has any fault, 
it is its evenness. It 
is a most delightful 
spacious common and 
sheep-walk, and the 
land extremely good." 
The neighbouring pro- 
prietors and tenants 
have the privilege of 
sheep -grazing on the 
Curragh. In 1406, it 
was the scene of a 
battle betwixt a few 
English under the 
Prior of Connell and 
200 Irish, who were 
I defeated. It afforded 
i parade ground for the 
; Volunteers in 1789; 
'^and the United Irish- 
vmen (to the number cf 
30,000) in 1804. A 
forest cuce occupied 



139J 



135f 



134f 



STATIONS, ETC. 



Newbridge. 

The village, though 
small, is a military 
station, and has a large 
cavalry barrack. A 
neat stone bridge, with 
five arches.here crosses 
the Liffey. 



Kildare. 

The town of Kildare is 
seen from the station. 
The name is supposed 
by some to be a cor- 
ruption of "chilledair," 
an oak wood. The 
ruined cathedral still 
exists, and teUs of the 
ancient splendour of 
the "City renowned for 
Saints." The only por- 
tion of the original 
fabric remaining is the 
Chapel of St. Bridgid, 
caUed the Fire House, 
as being the supposed 
locality of theperennial 
fire which the nuns 
maintained day and 
night, during a thou- 
saud years, for the 
benefit of poor 
strangers." " In the 
year 638, dod Dnhb, or 
Black Hugh, King of 
Lpinster, abdicated 



S2 



25J 



29 



30 



ON LEFT TEOM 
DUBLIN. 



but a few pieces of 
broken waU, with two 
of the windows. The 
windows are in the 
Gothic style of archi- 
tecture. 

KiLCULLEN, 5 m. t[> 
distant, was formerly 
a town of some conse- 
quence. Surrounded 
by circular walls, with 
seven entrances. The 
ruins of these walls 
exist, as also portions 
of a round tower, and 
carved crosses. 

Curragh Camp. 



Branch to TVat-er O- 
ford, 82 m., passing 
Carlow, 25| m., and 
Kilkenny, 51 m., with 
intermediate stations. 
See route IL 



The round tower, sitn- 
atedclose tothechurch, 
is a conspicuous object 
from the'line. It rises 
to a height of 110 feet. 
The original conical top 
which terminated the 
tower has been re- 
moved, and a Gothic 
battlement substituted 
in its stead. 



112 



FROM DUBLIN TO CORK, hc.-^ontinued. 



ON BIGHT FEOM 
DUBLIN. 



the place of the "Short 
Grass of the Curragh, " 
Numerous earthworks 
are still to he founl. 
The Curragh is now 
the seat of one of the 
chief military encamp- 
ments in Ireland, and 
is the head-quarters of 
the south-eastern mili- 
tary district. 

Lackagh Castle and 
Chuech. The latter 
rebuilt in 1835. The 
castle of the Ktzger- 
alds in ruins. 



r 



<€f Mount Mellick 
6| miles distant. Is a 
town celebrated in 
Ireland for the cotton 
manufacture carried 
on in it by a colony of 
Quakers. It is a pros- 
perous town, and has 
a large and well-atten- 
ded school for the edu- 
cation of the children 
of the poor. It is also 
the station of the Irish 
Beet Sugar Company. 



M 



131| 



128^ 



STATIONS, ETC. 



33 



his throne and took 
upon himself the 
Augustinian habit of 
this Abbey." 



Line enters Queen's 
County. Area 424.854 
acres. Pop. 90,650. 



Monastereven, 

So called from an abbey 
founded by St. Even 
or Evan, early in the 
seventh century. It 
exercised the privile- 
ges of sanctuary. St. 
Even's festival is held 
on the 22d of Decem- 
ber. The consecrated 
bell of the saint was 
committed to the cus- 
tody of the hereditary 
chiefsoftheMacEgans, 
and was on all solemn 
occasions sworn upon, 
as the Bible is in our 
courts of justice. Pass- 
ing through various 
hands, the abbey at 
length became the 
propertyof the Moores, 
Earls of Drogheda, by 
one of whom it was 
repaired. It is still in 
a good state of preser- 
vation. It presents a 
Gothic end with a 
large window, and two 
strong square towers 
at the sides. 



127| -5^ or. river Barrow, 87 



1^ 



ON LEFT FaoH 
DUBLIN. 



The demesne of Moore 
Abbey, the property of 
tie Marquis of Dro- 
gheda, is well laid out, 
and has been much 
improved of late. The 
hall is lined with 
carved Irish oak. 



113 



FEOM DUBLIN TO CORK, ^c.—ConHnued. 



ON RIGHT FROM 
DUBLIN. 



Lea Church and 

Castlk. The Castle, 
formerly aplaceof great 
strengtli, was built in 
1260 Dv the De Veseys. 
Itcons'istedof rude ma- 
terials, built in a qua- 
drangular shape, with 
flanking bastions. 'Ihe 
Irish burned it down 
in 1284. The Jb'itzger- 
alds and O'Mores sub- 
sequently held it, and 
inl650 it wasdestroyed 
by Cromwell's army. 



Lauragh. 



124i 



123i 



120i 



STATIONS, ETC. 



Bloomiteld. 



Ballyfin, the seat of 
Sir Charles Coote, Bart. 
The mansion is one of 
the finest modern re- 
i aidences in the Italian 



115f 
114 



112^ 



on viaduct of mal- 
leable iron, about 500 
feet in length. 

J^^ cr. branch of 
Grand Canal. 

Portarlington, 
An ancient borough 
and post town, situ- 
ated on ihe river Bar- 
row, with a handsome 
Protestant church, and 
large Koman Catholic 
chapel. Lord Arling- 
ton, to whom the estate 
on which the town is 
built belonged, formed 
a liitle town and port 
on the river. It gives 
the title of Earl to the 
family of Dawson, 
The demesne of Daw- 
son Grove is the family 
seat. Emigr-ints Irom 
Germany and Trance 
were among the tirst 
inhabitants of the 
town. It returns one 
member to Parliament. 
The town bt^ing for- 
feited to AViiiiam ill., 
was by him conferred 
on General Rouvigny, 
who was at the same 
time created Earl of 
Galway. Elemish and 
French Protestants 
flocked to it at that 
period. 

Maryborough, 

Ahorough, market,and 
post-town " So called 
in honour of Mary 
Queen of Endand, 
who reduced this part 
of the country to shire- 
ground." It formerly 

I 



44i 



ON LEFT FROM 
DUBLIN. 



.^f On the right, 
Branch to Tulla- 
MORE, 15^; Athlone, 
39i. 



62i 



Dawson's Court, 
now termed Emo Park, 
the seat of the Earls of 
Portarlington. One of 
the finest modern man- 
sions in Ireland. The 
demesne is extensive, 
and the undulating 
ground highly favours 
its appearance. 

Ruins of Kil- 
MiNCHY House. 



E,ATHLEAGUE, the dc 

mesne of Lord Congle- 
ton. The plantations 
give variety to the 
country. 1 



114 



FEOM DUBLIN TO CORK, kc-^Continued, 



Oir SIGHT PEOM 
DUBLIN. 



style to be found in the 
(Jnited Kingdom. 



^$ MOUNTEATH, 4 

n. distant. A post- 
town, founded in the 
17th century by one 
of the Coote family. 
Gave the title of Earl 
to the family untU the 
-death of Sir Charles 
Coote's kinsman, the 
last Earl, in 1803. 

•O Castletown, 2 
m distant. 



Ballybeophy. T. 
White, Esq. 
Ballymeelish, John 
Lyster, Esq. 

RoscEEA, 8 m. distant. 
A fair and post town. 
"The Church has a 
curious Gothic frontis- 
piece at the west end^ 
near it stands one of 



1091 



105 



104f 
lOlf 

99f 



97i 



STATIONS, ETC. 



sent two members to 
Parliament. " The 
heath of Maryborough 
was the original de- 
mesne of the 0' Mores, 
chiefs, Laoigkois or 
Leix; on it was fought 
a memorable battle 
betwixt the people of 
Munster and those of 
Leinster, about the 
middle of the 6th cen 
tury." 

«?^ cr. Cloncourse 
Elver. 

MOUNTRATH and 
CASTLETOWN. 



i^ or. Kiver Nore. 



i3^ cr. Kildellig riv. 



RoacBEA and Par- 
soNTowN Junction. 
Branch railway to 
Parsontown through 
Roscrea. 

BOERIS-IN-OSSOEY, 2 

m. distant. A fair 
town. The Lords of 
Ossory had a castle for 
the defence of the pass 
of Munster. 



55i 



63 



65 



67| 



ON LEFT fEOK 
DIOBLIN. 



Abbeyleix, 6 m. dis- 
tant. ConoghorO'More 
founded a Cistertian 
monastery in the 13th 
century. Queen Eli- 
zabeth granted it to 
the Earl of Ormonde. 



Aghaboe House and 
Abbey. The name is 
derived from Acheb 
hoe, or ox-field. In the 
6th century St. Canice 
founded a monastery 
here. He was son of 
a poet, Laidee, cele- 
brated in his day. He 
wrote a life of St. Co- 
lumbkiU, and died at 
Aghaboe in 599 or 
600. The^ present 
church, which is a 
modern structure, 
stands upon the site 
of a "great church*' 
built in 1234. The 
octagonal belfry is still 
standing. The ancient 
church of the monas- 
tery is 100 feet long by 



115 



FROM DUBLIN TO COUK, &c.- Continued. 



ON EIGHT FBOM 
DUBLIN. 



2S 



the largest round 
to^;v'ers in the king-j 
dom, all built wdth 
square stone, which is 
unusual iu these edi- 
fices." The tower 
is 80 feet high, and 
15 in diameter ; the 
top of it was de- 
stroved by hghtning 
in il35. "In 1213, 
King John erected a 
|Castle in this town, and 
'an abbey of regular 
canons was founded 
here by St.Cronan,who 
died in the beginning 
of the 7th century. 
The shrine of this saint 
is to be seen here, and 
is a curious piece of 
antiquity. A Francis- 
can friary was also 
founded here in 1490, 
at the north-west part 
of the town ; its re- 
mains are still in good 
preservation.^' 

The Peioey, seat of 
Sir John Garden 
Bart. The demesne 
origiaally belonged to 
ja Friory, the ruins 
I of which are still ex- 
tant. The western 
window is a very per- 
fect specimen of Gothic 
architecture. One of 
the entrances to th 
Piiory demesne i 
a picturesque ruin 
of an old castle of 
the Knights Templars, 
after whom the ad- 
joining town, of Tem- 
plemore is named. In 
the demesne is a beau- 
tiful sheet of water. 
I Ruined castles are 



92| 



STATIONS, ETC. 



II 



Line enters County 
Tipperary. Area 

1,061,731 acres; pop. 
216,210. 



iS^ cr. river Suir. 

85f Templemore. 

A neat,weU-builttown, 
believed to havesprung 
into existence under 
the Templars. It con- 
tains Protestant and 
Koman Catholic places 
of worship, and a bar- 
83| rack for infantry, with 
accommodation for 
1500 men. Pop. 4000. 

•CJ BOEEISOLEIGH, 5 

m. distant from Tem- 
plemore. It is beauti- 
fully situated at the 
base of the Devil's Bit 
mountains, which are 



78 



ON LEFT FEOM 
DUBLIN. 



24 wide. The windows 
are pointed. The ruins 
of the dormitories, of- 
fices, and other apart- 
ments, are still visible. 
Dermot MacGil Phad- 
rig pOlaged and burnt 
the shriue of St. Ca- 
nice and town of Agh- 
aboe in 1346. 

Knockahan Hill, an 
iaolated mass, rises 
near the railway to a 
height of 656 feet. The 
plantations on the 
line form part of tho 
demesne of Lisduff, 
the seat of the Right 
Hon. John Wilson 
Fitzpatrick. 



LouGHMOE Castle, 
in ruins, formerly the 
seat of the family of 
PurceHs. As it now 
stands, it consists of a 
plain castellated front 
with strong square 
towers at each end. 
The tower to the right 
is supposed to be of 



116 



FROM DUBLIN TO CORK, kc—Continmed. 



ON EIGHT FEOM 
DUBLIN. 



very frequently seen 
in passing through this 
county. 

Dove A, the seat of 
John Trant, Esq. 



Holy Cross, a mean 

town, remarkable 
only for the proximity 
of the beautiful ruins 
of the Abbey, and its 
fairs, which are held 
on 14th May, 24th 
September, and 18th 
October. 

The tourist fromDub- 
lin, by leaving the 
rail at Thurles, may 
visit by car Holy- 
cross Abbey (3 miles), 
thence to Mount 
Cashel (11 miles),and 
regain the rail at 
Goold's Cross Station 
(17 miles). 



STATIONS, ETC. 



now conspicuous from 
the line. This range of 
hills derive their name 
from a gap in their 
outline, which, when 
seen from a distance, 
appears bitten out, 
Their greatest altitude 
is 1572 feet. 



Thurles, 

A town of some import- 
ance on account of its 
markets. Many bat- 
tles were fought in 
and about it. " It 
gave the title of Earl 
(smce extinct) to the 
Ormond family." It 
is situated on the river 
Suir, which divides the 
town into two equal 
parts. A monastery 
was founded here by 
the Butler family, in 
A.D. 1300, for Carme- 
lites or White briars ; 
a tower is still stand- 
ing on the east side of 
the river, and a part 
of the cross aisle lead- 
ing to the north. 
There was also a castle 
here belonging to the 
Knights Templars. It 
is the seat of the 
Roman Catholic arch- 
diocese of Cashel ; and 
in 1850 a Sjniod, com- 
posed of all the Roman 
Catholic bishops of 
Ireland, was held in 
the college. It con- 
tains several educa- 
tional institutes of 
note. The most es- 
teemed is the college 
of St. Patrick, founded 
in 1836. Pop. 5000. 



84 



85 



ON LEFT FKOM 
DUBLIN. 



great antiquity, the 
other portions having 
been added about tiie 
16th centui-y. On the 
opposite side are the 
church and chapel of 
Loughmore. 

Brittas Castle, on 
the plan of tl^e old 
Norman castles, a ftne 
but as yet unfinished 
mansion, the seat of 
CoL Knox. 



Cabra Castle. 



Holt-Ceoss Abbey, 
founded in 1182 by 
Donald O'Brian, king 
of Limerick. It is said 
that the xlbbey owed 
its origin to the posses- 
sion of a piece of the 
pretended real cross, 
which iPope Pascal had 
presented about sixty 
or seventy years before 
to Donaugh O'Brien, 
monarch of Ireland, 
and grandson of the 
illustrious Brian Bo- 
roimhe. Tlie abbot 
was a peer in Parha- 
ment, beaiing the title 
of Earl of Holy Cross. 
The abbey is one of the 
finestremainsof Gothic 
arcliitecture in Ire- 
land. 



117 

FROM DUBLIN TO CORK. hc—Confitnied. 



ON BIGHT rBOM 
DUBLIN. 



DuNDRUM Demesne, 
on each side of the hue, 
the property of Lord 
Hawarden, occupies 
somewhat above 2400 
Enghsh acres. The 
house is elegant and 
commodious. It is built 
in the Grecian style 
The deer-park, which 
is spacious, is much 
admired. 



Ajiacabthy Castle. 

d Ltmeeick, 22 m. 

distant. 

Balltkisteen Ho. 
The seat of the Earl of 
Derby. The mansion 
is a modern building, 
and the country rouud 
is rich and fertile. 



a^' 



72| 



STATIONS, ETC. 



65 



571 



J^ or. River Clo- 
diach. A tributary of 
the Suir. 

Goold's Cross and 

Cashel. 
Cashel, 8 miles «3" 
distant. A sninll post 
town, which formerly 
sent two members to 
Parliament. "The City 
of Kings " is a phrase 
commonly applied to 
the town, owing to its 
royal associations. The 
kin^s of Munster re- 
sided here ; and here 
Henry II. received the 
homageof l)oDald,king 
of Limerick, in 1172. 
" The ancient name 
Cashel was Carsiol, or 
the habitation in the 
rock, being compound- 
ed of Car or Carick, 
and Lioi:* Pop. 4659. 



Dundrnm. 



Limerick Junc- 
tion. 
Here the main line 
from Dublin to Cork is 
intersected by the 
Waterford and Lime- 
rick hne. 

The fine range of the 
Galtee mountains is 
distinctly visible in the 
distance. 



1=3 



92 



95i 



98 



99| 



ON LEET EROM 
DUBLIN. 



The Rock oe Cashel. 
which rises boldly and 
abruptly out of the 
plain, has a world-^ide 
celebrity in connection 
with one of the finest 
assemblages of ruins in 
the kingdom, which 
crown its summit. 
The rock was formerly 
the site of a castle or 
Dun, held by the chiefs 
of Hy lunnamoi, lat- 
terly termed O'Dono- 
hoe. The remains on 
the rock consist of a 
round tower, ninety 
feet in height, a small 
church with stone roof, 
in the Korman style of 
arcliitecture, a cathe- 
dral church in Gothic 
style, a castle, and a 
monastery. No one 
travelhng on this hne 
of railway, who has the 
time to spare, should 
neglect visiting these 
interesting remains. 
Hore Abbey is a fine 
ruin, in good preserva- 
tion, sitiiated at the 
bnseof the rock. Itig 
built in the transition 
style, and is cruciform. 

TippERAKT, 3 milei 
distant. IQ- 

Cahir, 16| miles. 

Clonmel, 27J miles. 

Caerickon-Suib, 41 
miles. 

Watebeobd, 55 miles 



118 



FROM DUBLIN TO CORK, %LC.—Conltnuei 



ON RIGHT PROM 
DUBLIN. 



n 



Emlt, now an nnim- 
portant place, but 
formerly known as 
Imlagli, one of the 
three chief towns in 
Ireland. A church 
and bishopric were 
founded in the 4th cen- 
tury by St. Ailbe, be- 
fore the arrival of St. 
Patrick in Ireland. 
On the arrival of St. 
Patrick and the con- 
version of Angus Mac- 
Nasrick,kingofCashel, 
the church was de- 
clared the metropoli- 
tan church of Mun- 
ster." The church was 
burned in 1192, and 
rebuilt. It was in a 
flourishing condition, 
in the time of Henry 
VIII., when Hurly, the 
then bishop, erected a 
college for the educa- 
tion of secular priests. 
In 1568, the see was 
united with Cashel, 
and both these dioceses 
were united in 1833 to 
the sees of Waterford 
and Lismore. 

•O Lough Gur, 6 m. 
distant. A lake of 
about 4 m. circumfe- 
rence, with several 
small islands. One of 
these islands — the 
largest — ^is connected 
with the shore by an 
artificial neck, which 
was formerly defended 
by two strong towers. 
On this island, and in 
the neighbourhood of 
the once sacred shores 
of tins interesting lake, 
are a series of (£-uidi- 
cal works of variona 



54 



Sleive-na muck is seen 
in front. 

•€• Hospital, 2 m. 
distant, a markettown, 
owing its origin to 
the commandery of 
Knights Hospitallers 
established in it in the 
reign of King John. 
Sir V. Brown, to whom 
the property was 
granted by Queen 
Elizabeth, built a 
splendid castle on the 
site of the ancient 
hospital. 

Line enters county 
Limerick. Area 680,842 
acres; pop. 191,313. 



m 



STATIONS, ETC. 



Enocklong, 



B.B 



110 



1173 



ON LEFT PROM 
DUBLIN. 



Knocklong Hill t& 
rises in the midst of a 
rich country. 



Galbally, 3 m. dis- 
tant. |& 

A considerable monas- 
tery was founded here 
in 1204 for Grey friars, 
by a member of the 
O'Brien family. It was 
here that Lord Presi- 
dent Carew summoned 
the Lords of every 
county within the pro- 
vince, to meet him in 
1601. In the neigh- 
bourhood is the rich 
and beautiful glen of 
Aherlow, about eight 
miles in length by two 



119 



FROM DUBLIN TO CORK, kc— Continued. 



ON BIGHT FEOM 
DUBLIN. 



I 



descriptions, scarcely 
surpassed in interest 
by any in the kingdom. 
The chief work is a 
druidical temple, con- 
sisting of three circles 
of stones; the princi- 
pal, which is about 150 
feet in diameter, con- 
sists of 40 stones, of 
which the largest is 13 
feet long, 6 broad, and 
4 thick." " Edward 
and Grace's Bed*' is a 
tomb roofed \4ith large 



The Abbey of Kill- 
malloce; dedicated 
to St. Paul and St. 
Peter, consists of choir, 
nave, and transept. 
The choir is at present 
used for divine service 
A cylindrical belfry is 
attached to the abbey, 
and is by many sup- 
posed to be a round 
tower, although it 
seems coeval with the 
church. 
Near the tower is a 
Dominican friary. Sir 
R. Hoare says of it: 
"It surpasses in deco- 
ration and good sculp- 
ture any I have yet 
seen in Ireland." He 
refers it to the reig:n 
of King Edward III 
Of the church, the re- 
mains of the choir. 
/nave, transept, and a 



iO\ 



STATIONS, ETC. 



S-9 



Killmallock. 

•O Killmallock is 
supposed to derive its 
name from St. Molach, 
who founded an abbey 
here at the commence- 
ment of the 7th cen- 
tury. Long before the 
invasion of the Isor- 
mans, Killmallock was 
a place of note. Until 
1783 it sent two mem- 
bers to parliament. 
The ancient houses, 
occupied at one period 
by the great families of 
Limerick, are now re 
duced to the condition 
of wretched hovels. 
Even in the time of the 
Roundheads, the town 
was one of uncommon 
beauty, as we learn 
from the fact that the 
Parliamentary leader 
was so struck with it, 
that he resolved on 
sparing it. The older 
houses in the town are 
generally ornamented 
with battlements. 



ON LEFT FROM 
DUBLIN. 



inbreadth; its northern 
boundary is formed by 
the Tipperary hills, and 
its southern by the 
Galtee mountains, ris- 
ing to a height of up- 
wards of 3000 feet. 

MiTCHELSTOWN, IQ" 

13 m. distant. A neat 
little village, with the 
domain of the same 
name, the seat of the 
Earl of Kingston. The 
domain covers an ex- 
tent of 1300 acres. 
The mansion is a mag- 
nificent castellated 
structure, occupying a 
commanding position, 
The celebrated stalac- 
tite caves of Mitchels- 
town are about seven 
miles distant from the 
village (p. 142) 
KiLFiNANE, 5 m. ny 
distant. A small mar- 
ket town, containin;_ 
the i-uins of an ancient 
castle attributed to 
the Roches. IN'ear it 
are three strong forts, 
an artificial cave, and 
a rath. The latter, 
known as the " Danes' 
Fort," consists of a 
truncated conelSO feet 
high, and 20 feet in 
diameter at the top, 
surrounded by 4 ram- 
parts, wliich diminish 
gradually until the 
outer becomesscarcely 
10 feet high. The 
ramparts are 20 feet 
apart, and the diameter 
of the outermost about 
650 feet. 



120 



FROM DUBLIN TO CORK, kc—Continued, 



ON EIGHT PEOM 
DUBLIN. 




tall steeple, are stiU 
standing. The clois- 
ters remain. 
-€$ Charlevtlle, 1 
m. distant. It is a 
small town, founded 
in 1661 by the Earl of 
Orrery, and named in 
honour of Charles II. 
The place formerly 
gave the title of Earl 
to the Moore family, 
and now gives the same 
title to the family of 
Bury. The land in 
the neiojhbourhood is 
welj suited for dairy 
fanning. 



•O Cecilstown, 6 
m. distant. A small 
market town 



351 



27i 



Line enters County, 
Cork. Area 1,846,333 
acres ; pop. 649,071. 

Charleville, 
fSS® or. River Awbeg 
thrice. 

Buttevant. 

Like Kilmallock, But- 
tevant was once a town 
of importance, as may 
be inferred from the 
ruins which abound in 
and about it. Seward 
^ s : " It is called in 
tlieEcclesiasticalbooks 
Bothon, by the Irish 
and Spencer, Kilne- 
mullagh. The modern 
name is a corruption 
of the motto or war- 
cry of the Barrys, 
Boutez enavant, * Fiish 
forward ;' and was for- 
merly an ancient cor- 
poration, being once 
governed by a mayor 
and aldermen, hut by 
the wars gone to de- 
cay." 

D0NERA.ILE, K3" 5 m. 
distant. A market 
and post town, giving 
the title of Viscount 
to the family of St. 
Leger. It is situated 
on the river Awbeg, 
over which it has a 
good bridge. The seat 
of the St. Legers, 
Doneraile Park, is a 
fine property, with a 
beautiful modem man- 
sion. There is a neat 
church here, a Roman 
Catholic chapel, and a 
convent. IN ear this 
town are several quar- 



II 



129i 



137i 



ON LEPT FROM 
DDBLIN. 



The Abbey of But- 
tevant was founded 
in the reign of Ed- 
ward I. by David de 
Barry. Judging from 
the ruins at present 
standing, it must 
have been a most 
magnificent house. 
The steeple was a high 
square tower erected 
on a Gothic arch. 
The founder, who was 
Lord Chief Justice of 
Ireland, was buried 
within the choir op- 
posite to the altar. 

KlLCOLMAN IQr 6 m. 
distant. A rained 
castle to the north- 
west of Doneraile. 
It formerly belonged 
to the Earls of Des- 
mond, but is chiefly 
celebrated as the resi- 
dence of the poet Spen- 
ser, who here com- 
posed his inimitable 
" Faery Queen." Ed- 
mund Spenser was 
born at Smithfield, 
London, in 1553. After 
leaving Pembroke Col- 
lege, Cambridge, here- 
paired to London, 
where he was patro- 
nised by Sir Philip Sid- 
ney. After vicissitudes 
but too common to 
literary aspirants, he 
obtained from the 
Crown, in June 1586, 
a grant of 3028 acres 



121 

FROM DUBLIN TO CORK, kc.^Continued. 



OW BIGHT FEOM 
DUBLIN. 






The Spa House has 
lately been opened in 
order to afford hot and 
cold baths. 

•Ct Tlie branch to 
Ktllarney, 41 m. 
distant, turns cff to 
, right. Page 1£9. 



191 



STATIONS, ETC. 



ries of beautiful varie- 
gated marble. 

Castletowneoche, 
8 m. distant IQ- 
from Butt evant. A fair 
town, with the ru:ns 
of a castle, once tlie 
seat of the Roches, 
Lords of FeiTuoy. The 
castle is built on arock, 
and overlooks the 
river Awbeg. On tlie 
opposite side of the 
river is a field known 
as Campfield, "from 
whence a battery was 
erected by a party of 
the Parliament's for- 
ces anno 1649, against 
the castle, which was 
then defended by the 
lady of Lord Roche for 
several dnys in a very 
gallant manner. This 
iord refused a compo- 
sition for his estate 
from 0. Cromwell." 
About 1 mile distant 
from Castletownroclie 
is the castie of Carrig- 
nacenny ; at Bridge- 
town, about the saiue 
distance, is the ruin of 
an %bbey founded in 
1314 by Alexander 
Fitz-Hugh Roche, 
whose tomb is near 
the grand altar. 

Mallow. 

Mallow is a small and 
very respectably in- 
habited town, beauti- 
fully situated on the 
river Blackwater. It 
formed part of the 
territory of the Earl of 
Desmond, on whose at- 
tainder it was granted 
by Queen Elizabeth to 



145 



ON left peom 

DUBLIN. 



out of the forfeited 
estates of the Earl of 
Desmond, on condition 
that he should reside 
on the property ; and, 
much agciiust his will, 
he took up his abode in 
Kilcolman Castle. The 
country around is very 
romantic, and well 
suited to the taste of 
the most fanciful of 
English poets. The 
river Awbeg he terms 
MuUa. "Amongst the 
cool shadesol thegreen 
alders by the Mulla's 
shore," he sat with 
Raleigh m 15&9, and 
read to him the manu- 
script of his " Faery 
Queen." In 1598, 
Spenser having ren- 
dertd liimself obnoxi- 
ous to the native Irish, 
was attacked in hia 
castle, which was 
burned down, destroy, 
ing, at the ^ame time, 
his infant child. He 
escaped to London, 
and died broken- 
hearted. 



Mallow Castle, the 
seat of Sir Denham. 
Norreys.Bart. proprie- 
tor of the town. 

Branch to Fermot, 
17 miles distant. 



122 



FROM DIIRLIN TO CORK, kc.-^ontinued. 



ON RIGHT FEOM 
DUBLIN. 



MoTJRNE Abbey, in 
rains. 



Blarney Castle is 
about 1^ m. distant 
from the station of 
the same name, and 
is more conveniently 
visited from Cork, 
The ruins are much 
visited by tourists on 
account of the celebrity 
of the Blarney Stone, 
to kiss which is an 
object of ambition. 
The stone now exhibi- 
ted as possessing the 
power of smoothing 
the tongue is placed on 
the highest part of the 
north-east anjile of the 
castle, and is inscribed 
with the date 1703. 



STATIONS, ETC. 



4f 



Sir John Norris, who 
settled the crown of 
Portugal on the house 
of Braganza, and was 
Lord President of 
Munster." On the 
site of the town stood 
Short Castle, and on 
the south another, 
built by the Desmonds, 
which was a noble pile 
of buildings, destroyed 
during the rebellion of 
1641. 

I^^ cr. river Black- 
water. 

The railway bridge 
over the Blackwater 
is supported by ten 
arches. 



Blarney. 
**Here was a castle 
esteemed one of the 
strongest in the pro- 
vince. It stands five 
miles west of Cork, 
upon a limestone rock 
close to a small river, 
the "Murteen," over 
which is a handsome 
bridge, and on the 
south side a lake of .30 
acres' extent. The 
castle was built by 
Oormac M'Carty, who 
came into the lordship 
in 1449 ; in 149.5 the 
chief was summoned 
to parliament as Lord 
of Muskerry ; and 
Baron of Blarney, bv 
Queen Elizabeth^ in 
1578 ; and in 1660 cre- 
ated Earl of Clancarty 
The castle, which 
was held for James 
II., was besieged by 
the forces of the 



160 



ON LEFT rROM 
DUBLIN. 



The country on the 
left side becomes very 
uninteresting. 



At St. Ann's, a mile 
and a-half from Blar- 
ney village, there is 
a large hydropathic 
estabLLshinent. 



123 



FROM DUBLIN TO CORK, kc^Continued 



ON EIGHT PEOM 
DUBLIN. 





STATIONS, ETC. 


B-i 

1651 


ON LEK FE03I 
DUBLIN. 


St. Patrick's Bridge, 
Cork, was partially de- 
stroyed by a flood on 
the river Lee, on the 
2d November 1853. 


Prince of Orange. 
A battery placed upon 
an elevation compelled 
the garrison to give np 
the castle." 

Cork. 

A well-built city, finely 
situated on the river 
Lee, governed by a 
mayor, aldermen, 'and 
councillors, and re- 
turning two members 
to Parliament. 

See page 153. 





n.— FROM KILDARE TO TVATERFORD, THROUGH CARLOW AND 
KILKENNY. 



ON EIGHT PEOM 
KILDAEE. 



The line between Kil- 
dare and Athy keeps 
in a direction some- 
what parallel with the 
boundary between the 
counties' Kildare and 
Queen's. 



11 



82 



ei 



STATIONS, ETC. 



Eildare. 

See page 131. 
Commencement of the 
Irish South Eastern 



Athy. 

A market town. Pop. 
3908. 



Mageney. 



ON LEETl^OM 
KILDAEE. 



KiLCULLEN, O 

7i m. distant. 
A fair and post town 
on the river Liffey. 
: Here is a pretty 
church, on a hill, with 
14| a round tower, about 
half its original height. 
Tliistownwas formerly 
of more importance, 
and surrounded by a 
wall. 



21 



Castledeemot, *>■ 
3 miles distant, "is 
noted for having the 
j fii-st charter school 
erected in it for 40 
{children." This was 
once the regal resi- 
dence of the royal 
family of Dermot, but; 



124 



FROM KILDARE TO WATERFORD, kc—Contintteel, 



ON BCGHT FEOM 
KILDAKE. 



Carlow was formerly 
styled Catherlogh, 
the city of the lake. 
It returned two mem- 
bers to tlie Irish Par- 
liament. The town 
is not conspicuous for 
architectural beauty. 
On an eminence near 
the town is a ruin of 
an old castle, attri- 
buted to King John. 



«l Royal Oak, 2 m. 
distant, formerly well 
known as a posting- 
station. 

Leighlin, 2^ m. dis- 
tant. Formerly a 
borough returning two 
members to Parlia- 
ment ; patron, the 
bishop of the diocese. 
The cathedral is in 
good condition, and 
since theseewas united 
to Ferns has been used 
as a parish church. A 
tomb *' fronting the 
entrance" is pointed 
out as that of Bishop 
Cavanagh, who died in 
1587. "It )« also re- 
ported that Gnrmun- 
dus, a Danish prince, 
was buried in this 
church." " It was a 
bishopric founded in 
632, and joined to 
Ferns in 1600." Leigh- 
lin Bridge, two miles 
from this town, has 
the remains of a castle 



a^ 



59 



57 



46 



43 



S7| 



STATIONS, ETC. 



Line enters the County 
Carlow. Area 221,342 
acres ; pop. 51,472. 

Carlow. 

f^^ cr. river Burren. 

The coarser kinds of 

woollen clothhave long 

been manufactured in 

Carlow. 

A coach leaves for Tul- 

low on the arrival of 

the forenoon train. 



Milford. 
Bagnalstown. 

Branch line for 
Rorris and Wexford. 
Coach from Rorris 
to New Ross and 
Craigue. 

Line enters Comity 
Kilkenny. Area 

509,732 acres ; pop. 
109,302. 

i^^ cr. river Barrow. 

The river is here the 
boundary between the 
counties Carlow and 
Kilkenny. 



Gowran. 



23 



26| 



30 



44^ 



ON LEFT FEOJIC 
KILDARE. 



nothing now remains 
to speak of their splen- 
dour but an old tower. 
Bruce sacked the town 
in 1316. The town 
had formerly four 
gates, no vestiges of 
which now remain. 
The southern entrance 
still bears the name of 
Carlow gate, and the 
northern, Dublin gate. 
There remain the ruins 
of a Franciscan Abbey j. 
founded in the 13th 
century by Gerald, 
Earl o'f Kiidare. In 
1377, a parliament was 
held in the town, and 
a mint instituted. 



GoKEs Bridge, |t> 
3 m. distant. A little 
town on the river Bar- 
row, near which are 
situated the ruins of 
Bally-eUin Castle. 



125 
FROM KILDARE TO WATERrORD, kc.-^Continued. 



ON RIGHT FROM 
KJLDARE. 



and an abbey. The; 31 
castle was destroyed 
by the native Irish in 
1577. 



The town contains 
many monastic and 
other ecclesiastical 
ruins. A round tower, 
the cathedral, a gram- 
mar school, and the 
usual buildings belong- 
ing to a county town 
Kilkenny Castle, the 
seat of the Marquess of 
Ormonde, is boldly 
situated on the right 
bank of the river Ivore, 
and is one of the 
j largest and most mte- 
I resting of the castles of 
1 Ireland. The Parlia- 
iments frequently met 
I here, and here was 
1 passed that severe 
measure, tlie " Statute 
of Kilkenny." 



jgy Kells, 6 m. dis- 
tant, a small village 
containing the exten- 
sive remains of a 
castellated ecclesias- 
tical building. TJiere 
is a town of the same 
name in County 
Meath. 



25 



20 



15| 



STATIONS, ETC. 



Kilkenny. 

Enter upon Waterford 
and Kilkenny Rail> 
way. 

In 1789, the computed 
population of Kil- 
kenny, including Irish 
Town, was 20,000, and 
four members were re- 
turned to Parliament J 
now the population is 
12,664, with one repre- 
sentative. The mar- 
ket-cross, bearing date 
Mccc, was removed 
in 1771. 

Bennet's Bridge. 

A poor fair-town. The 
neighbourhood is stud- 
ded with gentlemen's 
seats. In the district 
are the ruins of En- 
nisnag and Awimault 
Castles. 

Thomastown. 

A borough and post 
town, founded by Tho- 
mas Eitzanthony, an 
early Saxon settler. 
Formerly it returned 
two members, the pa- 
tronage being in the 
family of Clifden. 



Ballyhall. 

Near the station is Jer- 
point. 



51 



57 



62 



The manufactures of 
Kilkenny are confined 
to coarse woollen stuffs 
and starch. The mar- 
ble found in the neigh- 
bourliood is highly 
prized, and largely ex- 
ported. See p. 147. 



ON LEFT FROM 
KILDARE. 



Jerpoint Abbey, on 

the Nore, founded by 
Donogh M'Gilla-Pa- 
trick. Prince of Ossory. 
In wealth, honours, 
and architectural 

splendours, Jerpoint 
was exceeded by no 
monastic institution in 
Ireland. The demesne 
lands extended over 
1500 acres of fertile 
ground, and the build- 
ings included the ab- 
bey-church and tower, 
a refectory, dormitoiy, 
and offices that occu- 
pied an area of three 
acres. The whole of 
this property was 
granted at the dissolu- 
tion to Tnomas Butler, 
tenth Earl of Ormonde, 



1^6 



FROM KILDARE TO WATERFORD, ^q:— Continued. 



ON RIGHT FROM 
KILDARE. 


li 


STATIONS, ETC. 


^2 


ON LEFT FROM 
KILDARE. 










at an annual rent of 
£49 : 3 : 6. The tomb 
of the Founder is oppo- 
site the high altar. 




7i 


Mullinavat. 


74i 


Tort Hill becomes 
prominent. 

Greenville House. 




4f 


Kilmacow. 


771 




In the distance are the 
ruins of Grandison 
Castle, called " Graney 
Castle." 





Waterford. 

See page 152. 


85 


MULLINABRO HOUSE. 



III.— LIMERICK JUNCTION TO TIPPERARY, CLONIVIEL, CARRICK- 
ON-SUIR, AND WATERFORD. 



ON RIGHT FROM 
JUNCTION. 


i 

55 
62i 


STATIONS, ETC. 



2f 


ON LEFT FROM 
JUNCTION. 


Line to Killamey 79 
miles, and Cork 57| 
miles. 

SLneVK-lVA-MUCK 

rises 1215 feet. A 
mountain ridge sepa- 
rated from the Gal- 
tees by the Glen of 
Aherlow. 
1 


Limerick June. 

Limerick and Water- 
ford Railway. 

Tipperary. 

The first station on the 
line is the old county 
town. It is very plea- 
santly situated near 
the base of the Slieve- 
na-muck or Tipperary 
hills. The county is 
one of the finest for 
grazing in the country. 
It sends four members 


Line to Dublin 107 

miles. 

Tipperary. The name 
is beUeved to be de- 
rived from the Celtic 
Tohar-a-neldth, i. e., 
"the well of the 
plains." The popula- 
tion of the town ii 
6000. 



127 



LIMERICK JUNCTION TO TIPPERAKY, CLONMEL, &c.— Continued. 



ON EIGHT FEOM 
JUNCTION. 



Glen Aheelow may 
be visited from this 
locality. 

ft Clogheen, 7 m. 
distant. 

Cahib. has the reputa- 
tion of being one of the 
"Quaker towns" — 
many of the inhabi- 
tants being members 
of the Society of 
Eriends. It is due to 
these people to state, 
that no other towns 
present the same neat- 
ness and cleanliness. 
The seat of the pro- 
prietor is in the town, 
and the demesne oc- 
cupies both sides of 
the river. There are 
extensive flour-mills 
m Cahir. Pop. 3719. 



cj Ball£donagh, 
5 m. distant. 

Clonmel is now the 
assize town for the 
south riding of Tippe- 
rary County, and is 
one of the largest in- 
land towns in Ireland, 
It is situated on the 
Suir, which is navi- 
gable from Clonmel 
to Carrick and Water- 



271 



stations, etc. 



11 



to Parliament, two for 
the county, one for 
Cashel, and one for 
Clonmel. Its popula- 
tion in 1861 was 
249,106. It contains 
1,061,731 statute acres 
of land, of which 
843,887 are arable, the 
remainder being under 
wood or unreclaimed 



Bansha. 

i!|^ cr. River Aher- 
low. 

Cahir. 

i!5® cr. River Suir. 

The town and castle 
have long been famous. 
The castle is beheved 
to occupy the site of 
one of much greater 
antiquity. It is an ir- 
regular structure, con- 
sisting of a large square 
keep, with extensive 
outworks and court- 
yards, and occupies the 
summit of a rock rising 
over the left bank of 
the Suir. Cromwell 
took the castle in 1650. 



Clonmel. 
On the Suir. Pop. 
10,000. 

During the remainder 
of the journey, the line 
runs in a course paral- 
lel wdth the river Suir, 
on the Tipperary side. 
The Suir separates Tip- 
perary from the County 
Waterford. 



7h 



lei 



m 



on LEET FB.0M 
JUNCTION. 



Fethaed, 12 m. (t^- 
distant, and 8 m. from 
Clonmel Station. Now 
a decayed town,though 
once of considerable 
importance. It con- 
tains the ruins of an 
abbey founded 1306. 
About a mile from the 
town are the ruins of 
Crump Castle, The 
town wag "built by 
King John, and still 
exhibits the ruins of 
its ancient fortifica' 
tions. 



128 



LIMERICK JtJNCTlON TO TIPPERARY, CLONMEL, kc.- Continued. 



ON RIGHT TROM p « | 
JUNCTION. 'f*^fe 



STATIONS, ETC. 



ford The manu- 
factures are woollen, 
but not very extensive. 
Laurence Sterne was 
born bere on the 24tb 
November 1713. The 
town is believed to 
have been built before 
the Danish invasion. 

•O PORTLAW, 3 m 

distant. Messrs. Mal- 
colnison of Clonmel 
erected a cotton mill 
in this town in 1818, 
the result of which is, 
that, from being an 
almost unknown vil- 
lage, it has become a 
town of considerable 
importance. The firm 
it is said, employs up- 
wards of a thousand 
work-people. 



The County Waterford 
closely adjoins the 
County Wexford on the 
east, from which it is 
separated by the es- 
tuaries of the Barrow 
and Suir combined. 
To the north it has 
Kilkenny and Lime- 
rick, to the west Cork, 
and on the south St. 
George's Channel. Its 
surface is mountain- 
ous, and the principal 
rivers that traverse it 
are the Blackwater and 
theSuic 



^1^ cr. river Anney. 

Kilsheelan. 
Cartick-on-Suir. 

Line leaves Tipperary 
County, andenters Kil- 
kenny. 

Fiddown. 

Dunkitt 

Is the station at which 
the two lines from 
Kilkenny and the Li 
merick junction meet 
on their way to Water- 
ford, two miles distant. 



Waterford, 

The county town, 
situated on the south 
side of the river Suir 
in the north-east cor- 
ner of the county. 
The population in 1871 
was 23,337 ; it returns 
two members to Par- 
liament. Gives the 
title of Marquis to the 
Beresford familv. 
(Page 152'. 



ON LEFT FROM 
JUNCTION. 



Glenbower, 5 m. 
distant. 

BooLET Mountains 
to the left. 

Caerick-on-Suir is 
so named to distin- 
guish it from a town 
on the Shannon. The 
town is joined to the 
County Waterford by 
a bridge over the Suir. 
The name is from Car- 
rick, a rock. The sur- 
rounding country is 
very fertile. Woollen 
manufactures are ex- 
tensively carried on. 
The town was formerly 
walied, and a portion of 
the wall still remains. 
Tlie castle is interest- 
ing. Pop. 6000. 

Waterford, which is 
of Danish origin, was 
built in 879, "but de- 
stroyed in 981 ; it was 
considerably enlarged 
by Strongbow in 1171,' 
and still further in the 
reitrn of Henry VII., 
who granted consider- 
able privileges to the 
citizens. It was, from 
its situation, the chief 
point of communica- 
tion with England 
Richard 11. landed, and 
was crowned here in 
1399. In 1690, James 
II. embarked hence 
for Erance, after the 
battle of the Boyne j 
and King William III. 
resided here twice, and 
confirmed its privi- 
leges. 



IV,— BRANCH FROM MALLOW TO KILLARNEY. 



ON BIGHT FEOM 
MALLOW. 



Dromaneew Castle, 
nuns. 



LOMBAEDSTOWN HO. 



•€• Kanturk, 4 in. 
distant. The name is 
from " Keaniuirk, i.e. a 
boar's head, probably 
from one of these ani- 
mals having been slain 
here by some Lrish chief 
in former times." The 
Macarthvs formerly 
held the 'property, but 
forfeited it in 1641. In 
Queen Elizabeth'stime 
MacDonough Carthy 
commenced the erec- 
tion of the castle near 
this place. It is a 
parallelogram 120 feet 
in length by 80 in 
breadth, flanked by 
four square buildings. 
But being represented 
to th e councn as a place 
which might be made 
dangerous to govern- 
ment, the bmlduig was 
stayed. It remains as 
then built, in good pre- 
servation, and contri- 
butes much to the 
scenery of the neigh- 
bourhood. The town 
is the property of Sir 
Matthe\vTierney,Bart. 
Pop. 3000. 



is 



STATIONS, ETC. 



41 



86| 



Mallow. 

Page 121. 



86 Lombardstown. 

31 i?^?tCr.Lombardstown 
fiver. 

291 ' Kanturk. 

; This station is near the 
i village of Banteer. 

I Tor the next 20 miles 
of the road the scenery 
becomes more barreu 
and less interesting, 
• until it approaches 
within 8 miles of Kil- 
larney. 

^^ cr. river Black- 
I water. 

21 I Millstreet. 
! Near the town of MiU- 
I street is Deishane 
; Castle, the seat of 
I J. Wallis, Esq. The 
demesne is extensive. 
I The castle was built 
iin 1436 by Dermot 
! MacCarthy. In 1641, 
his descendant Donagh 
forfeited the proper^. 
The mansion is quad- 
rangular, with a cen- 
tral tower, and strong 
embattled towers at 
the angles. 

u\ SMnnagli. 
1^ Headford. 
Passing under the 
Paps we approach 

Killarney. 

Page 178. 



10 



lU 



20 



41 



ON LEFT FROM 
MALLOW. 



Dromoee House, seat 
of A. IVewman, Esq. 
Gazabo Hill, a well- 
wooded conical hill, 
vrith a ruin on the 
summit. 

lombaedstown 
Wood. 

Mount Hilaey, 1287 
feet in height. 



MlLLSTKKET, 1 fS" 

mile distant, a small, 
romantically situated 
market town, stands 
at the base of the 
Cloragh Hill. 

The Paps become 
visible, as also Tore, 
and in the distance 
the Eeeks. 



Plesk Castle, the 
seat of Daniel Cronini 
Coltsman, Esq. 



130 



DUBLIN TO CORK. 

This journey, wMcli is 165 J miles, takes the passenger 
through portions of five counties. The interesting objects 
on the route may be specially visited, by procuring a ticket 
for the nearest station, and continuing the journey by the 
next train. 

CLONDALKIN, already noticed in connection with the 
neighbourhood of Dublin, is interesting as affording the 
tourist his first view of a round tower. The tower stands 
at a convenient distance from the railway ; it is 85 feet 9 
inches high, and surmounted with a conical top. There is 
a difference of 1 4 inches between the thickness of the walla 
in the lower and upper storey. This tower can be ascended, 
from the inside, on a series of ladders reaching to its sum- 
mit. Though no record can be traced of the building of 
these beautiful and interesting objects,* it is of interest to 
know that they present architectural excellences seldom 
met with in modern works. Sir John Forbes, in his 
" Memorandum made in Ireland," says, " Of all the relics 
of antiquity still preserved in Ireland — I had almost said 
in Europe — there are none which, in my mind, can vie in 
point of attractiveness with these towers. No one who 
sees but once their beautiful, lofty, and slender shafts 
shooting up into the sky, and dominating in solitary 
grandeur the surrounding landscape — all strikingly resem- 
bling one another, and resembling nothing else — but must 
be struck with admiration and curiosity of the liveliest 
kind. And yet these primary feelings are but slight in 
degree, when compared with those which are excited by 
the consideration of all the extraordinary circumstances 
involved in their history. That these towers have existed 
for upwards of a thousand years is certain, that they may 
have existed twice or thrice that period is far from impro- 

* Giraldus Cambrensis, who wrote in the twelfth century, regards theun 
as of too great antiquity to he traced. 



THE COUNTY KILDaRE. 131 

bable ; but tbat the era of tlieir origin and tlie object of 
their erection remain as secrets yet to be unfolded, are 
circumstances which only add to the mysterious interest 
which attaches to them." 

THE COUNTY KILDAEE is entered about eleven 
miles from Dublin. The population in 1871 was 84,198 ; 
it returns two county members to Parliament. According 
to the ordnance survey, 66,447 of 392,435 acres included 
■wdthin its bounds, are uncultivated, being bog or moun- 
tain. Since 1841 the population has decreased 30,992. 
The county is composed chiefly of fine arable lands. " It 
was anciently," says Seward, " called Chille-dair^ i. e., the 
wood of oaks, from a large forest which comprehended the 
middle part of this county. In the centre of this wood 
was a large plain, sacred to heathen superstition, and at 
present called the Curragh of Kildare ; at the extremity 
of this plain, about the commencement of the sixth cen- 
tury, St. Bridgid, one of the heathen vestals, on her con- 
version to the Christian faith, founded, with the assistance 
of St. Conlaeth, a church and monastery, near which, after 
the manner of the Pagans, ^S'^. Bridgid kept the sacred fire 
in a cell, the ruins of which are still visible." 

The Curragh is a large plain, the property of the Crown, 
containing 5000 acres of excellent pasture. It comprises 
the site of an important military encampment, which is the 
head-quarters of the south-eastern military district, and 
also forms the finest race-course in the kingdom. The 
Curragh Races take place twice in each year, in April and 
September. 

NaaSj which is most conveniently reached from Sallins 
Station, being three miles distant from it, is one of the 
principal towns in the county, and was long the royal seat 
of Leinster. Naas is, alternately with Athy, the assize 
town. Near the centre of the town is a mount or rath^ 
of undoubted native origin, on which, during the sixth, 
seventh, and eighth centuries, the states of the province of 



132 DUBLIN TO CORK. 

Leinster assembled to deliberate ; the town was bence 
called Naas, which signifies the " place of the elder s^ On 
the arrival of the English, Naas was fortified, and bastions 
and towers erected to protect the walls, some of the re- 
mains being still visible. The Baron of Naas founded in 
the twelfth century an Augustinian priory, dedicated to St. 
John the Baptist. Another was erected in the centre of 
the town by the Eustace family, for Dominican friars. 

The Hill of Allen is seen to the right from the railway, 
before reaching Newbridge Station. It is situated in the 
Bog of Allen, so well known for its extent, covering, as it 
does, about 300,000 acres. The general elevation, how- 
ever, being 270 feet above sea level, drainage has been 
found thoroughly efficacious in drying much of the soil, and 
converting into good land what was formerly, and still is 
nominally, bog. It is generally asserted by the Irish that 
the poems attributed to Ossian, and translated by Mac- 
pherson, are but lame piracies from the poems transmitted 
from parent to child in their own country. Fingal, it 
would seem, was no other than Fin-MacCoul, and his 
habitation, instead of the magical basaltic cave of StaJffa, 
the bleak hill of Allen, in the midst of an unlimited bog. 
Even the shrewd Kohl has subscribed to this idea, but 
justly adds — 

** The Irish continually assure the stranger, that their poems are quite 
untranslatable, and would he as totally spoiled by transplanting into another 
language, as a beautiful flower by being covered with a coating of paint. 
No doubt it is difficult to transfer from one language to another all the 
delicate aroma of poetry, but Macpherson has shewn that a mere imitation, 
though assuredly an imperfect one, is sufficient to delight all Europe. At 
all events, they ought to be collected and printed in Irish." 

Kildare, though bearing the same name, is not the 
county town, but a poor miserable place, chiefly remark- 
able for the ecclesiastical ruins which it contains. The 
convert Bridget or Bridgid, after assisting St. Conlaeth to 
found a monastery, erected the celebrated Nunnery of St 
Bridget, Kildare's holy fane, in which the nuns for eight 
hundred years maintaiaed the " inextinguishable fire/* 



KILDARE. 133 

until Hany, Arclibisliop of Dublin, had it extingnisbed in 
1220 ; it was afterwards rekindled; but finally put out in 
the reign of Henry YIII. In 638, Aod Duhh, or Black 
Hugh, retired from the throne of Leinster, took up his 
abode in the Augustinian Monastery, and afterwards be- 
came Abbot and Bishop of EjJdare, one of the few instances 
on record of a crown and sceptre being resigned for a mitre 
and crosier. "In 756, Eiglitigin, the abbot, who was also 
Bishop of Kildare, was killed by a priest as he was cele- 
brating mass at the altar of St. Bridgid, since which time 
no priest whatsoever was allowed to celebrate mass in that 
church in the presence of a bishop." The Franciscan 
Abbey, for " friars of orders grey," is situated on the south 
side of the town. The original founder was Lord William 
de Yesey (1260) ; the completion of it was left to Gerald 
Fitz-Maurice O'Faley. De Yesey also founded, in 1290, 
an abbey for white friars. The town still contains a friary 
and nunnery, a Koman Catholic chapel, and various schools. 
In the churchyard, close by the cathedral, is a fine speci- 
men of a round tower about 110 feet in height, with a fine 
ornamented doorway. The original conical top has been 
removed, and the tower is now surmounted with a sort of 
parapet or battlement. The Turf Club is in the town, 
which is much frequented during the Curragh races. 

Athy^ the largest town in the county, is situated mid- 
way between Klldare and Carlow, on the Irish South- 
Eastem Eailway, and is chiefly interesting from its 
proximity to two historical spots. The first, the ancient 
Carmen, now termed Mullimast, or Mullach Mastean, " the 
moat of decapitation." In the reign of Elizabeth it was 
proposed to the neighbouring Irish chiefs to meet at this 
spot to have their mutual animosities and grievances ex- 
plained and rectified. The chiefs came cheerfully to 
Carmen, where it is said the Kulers of the Pale were mas- 
sacred, to the number of 400. The "Rath" of Mullagh- 
mast was the scene of the last of the great " monster 
meetings" held by O'Connell, and here he was presented 



134 DUBLIN TO CORK. 

with tlie crown-like cap, wMch lie afterwards occasionally 
wore in public. " The moat of Ascul," about four miles 
from the town, has a more honourable memory. Here, in 
1315, the Scots, under Edward Bruce, fought a sanguinary 
battle in behaK of Irish freedom, defeating the English, 
who were commanded by Sir Hamon le Gros. 

QUEEN'S COUNTY is entered about thirty-three miles 
from Dublin. It sends two county members to Parlia- 
ment. The area amounts to 424,854 statute acres, of 
which 69,289 are unproductive, being mountain or bog. 
In 1841 the population was 153,930, in 1871 it had 
diminished to 77,071. 

Maryborough, so named in honour of Queen Mary, in 
whose reign the county was separated from the King's 
County, is the county town. About four miles distant, on 
the property of Lord Congleton, is the " Rock of Dun-a- 
mase," which was formerly completely covered with fine 
oak trees, but is now quite bare. This was the site of the 
castle of MacMorrough, King of Leinster. It was fre- 
quently taken by the Irish, and again recaptured by the 
English. 

Dr. Ledwick thus describes the spot. " The rock is an elliptical conoid, 
accessible only on the eastern side, which, in its improved state, was de- 
fended by a barbican. From the barbican you advance to the gate of the 
lower ballium. It is seven feet wide, and the walls are six feet thick. It 
had a parapet, creneles, and embrasures. The lower ballium is 312 feet 
from north to south, and 160 from east to west. You then arrive at the 
gate of the upper ballium, which is placed in a tower ; and from this begin 
the walls which divide the upper and lower ballium. The former is a plain 
of 111 feet from east to west, and 202 from north to south. On the highest 
pai-t was the keep, and the apartments for officers." 

This place was originally the royal residence of Laoisach 
Hy-Mora^lh. The foundation of the fortress is ascribed to 
LaigseacQ, early in the third century. The Hy-Moradh 
family became united with the Hy-Morraghs, and hence 
the fortress passed into the royal family of Leinster. With 
Eva, tl<iu<jhter of Dermot, it passed into the hands of 



TIPPEflARY CODKTY. 135 

j!?trongbow, whose daughter brouglit it as a dowry to 
William Earl Marshall, w^ho succeeded his father-in-law as 
Earl of Pembroke. The castle, whose ruins now stand, 
are ascribed to the latter occupier. In 1325 the hereditary- 
proprietor O'More got possession, and held it for four years ; 
and again, in the time of Edward III., his family held it 
for two years. The ruins of this ancient castle and fortress 
consist of some of the walls and gates, which are the only 
remains of the ancient importance of Maryborough. 

TIPPERAEY COUNTY, extending from the Shannon 
to the Suir, is next entered. It ranks second to none in 
ecclesiastical and military monuments, and is one of the 
most fertile and productive in the kingdom. Like other 
counties, its population has fallen off of late years. In 
1841 it was 435,553, but in 1871 the number of inhabi- 
tants was only 216,210, being a decrease of 219,343 in 
the course of thirty years. The north-west of the county 
is bounded by Lough Derg, and will be more properly re- 
ferred to in another portion of the work. 

Roscrea. — Though the station for Roscrea is in Queen's 
County, the town, which is eight miles distant, is situated 
in a comer of Tipperary mthin ten minutes' walk of 
King's County. This is a very ancient town, situated in a 
rich tract of land at the foot of the Slievebloom mountains. 
The gable and porch of the abbey founded by St. Cronan 
in the seventh century now form the entrance to the pre* 
sent church. The " Shrine of St. Cronan," a circular cross 
mth a carving of the Crucifixion, stands in the churchyard. 
The round tower is situated near the abbey. In 1135 its 
summit was displaced by hghtning. One of the towers of 
the castle of King John still stands, as also the castle 
erected by the Ormonds in the reign of Henry VIIL, and 
now the depot attached to the barracks. 

Templemore is the next station after Eoscrea. The 
Priory adjoins the town, and is the seat of Sir John C. 
Garden, Bart., one of the most beautiful in the county. 



136 DUBLIN TO CORK. 

The mansion tliougli modern, is built in a style approach- 
ing the character of ancient monasteries. The entrance 
from the town is through a portion of an ancient castle of 
the Knights-Templars. The grounds, which are extensive 
and well wooded, are open to the public, and contain a 
fine sheet of water, which adds much variety to the scenery. 
On the southern side of this lake are the ruins of a large 
square keep, while the northern shore is ornamented by a 
portion of an ancient priory, exhibiting in its western wall 
a fine Gothic window. 

The DeviVs Bit Mountains, which are for some nules 
conspicuous objects as seen from the railway, rise to the 
north-west of Templemore. Unlike that of Allen, they 
are placed in a rich fertile tract ; the highest point is 1572 
feet above the sea. When viewed from a distance, a gap 
is visible, not unlike that made in a piece of bread by a 
hungry school-boy ; judging that no teeth could be so 
sharp as those of " Nickie Ben," he has got the credit of 
the operation. 

Thurles is a town depending on the agriculture of the 
neighbourhood. It is prosperous, tolerably clean, and in 
the midst of a very rich, but scantily wooded and some- 
what uninteresting part of the coimty. The town con- 
tains a very handsome Roman Catholic Chapel, and the 
extensive Roman Catholic College of St. Patrick, which 
has two departments, one for ecclesiastics, the other for 
lay pupils, and was constituted a provincial college by the 
well-known Synod of Thurles, composed of all the Roman 
Catholic Bishops of Ireland, and held in this college in 
1850. There are also several nunneries, a parish-church, 
barracks for infantry, and several ruins of ancient castles 
and ecclesiastical buildings. Two miles from Thurles is 
the large unfinished mansion of Britas Castle, commenced 
on the plan of the old Norman castles. This town has 
frequently been the scene of conflicts between the Irish 
and the Danish and Saxon invaders. 

Holy Cross Abbey is four miles from Thurles on the line 



HOLY CROSS ABBEY. 137 

of railway, and eight from Cashel. TMs abbey was 
founded in 1182 by Donald O'Brien, king of North Mun- 
ster, for Cistercian monks, and the charter of its foundation 
was witnessed by Gregory, Abbot of Holy Cross ; Maurice, 
Archbishop of Cashel ; and Britius, Bishop of Limerick. 

The title of its dedication is attributed to the possession of a piece of 
the pretended true Cross, presented by Pope Paschal II. to Mui-tagh, monarch 
of all Ireland, in the year 1110. This relic, set in gold and adorned with 
precious stones, was preserved in the abbey until the Refonnation, when it 
was saved by the family of Ormonde ; afterwards committed to the 
Kanaught family, and said to have been finally delivered to the Roman 
Catholic hierarchy of this district. 

King John confirmed the charter of the abbey, and 
Henry III. took it under his protection. The abbot, as 
Earl of Holy Cross, was a peer of parliament ; he was 
moreover vicar-general of the Cistercian order in Ireland. 
Great multitudes, including many important persons, made 
pilgrimages to the abbey, during its zenith, but at the 
Dissolution it was granted, with all its valuable estates, to 
the Earl of Ormonde, at the annual rent of <£l5. " The 
architecture of the nave is inferior to that of the tower, 
transepts, and choir. The tower is supported on lofty 
pointed arches ; the roof groined in a style of superior 
workmanship, and pierced with five holes for the transit 
of the bell-ropes."'^ The north transept, which is beauti- 
iully groined, is divided into two chapels ; one of them 
contains the baptismal font, and is lighted by a window of 
peculiar design. The south transept is similar to the 
north, and, like it, is adorned with tombs and monuments. 

In the choir will be observed with interest two curious 
tombs or shrines. One of these, between two sanctuaries, 
is supported by two rows of fluted spiral columns, less 
rich, but resembling the Prentice's Pillar in Roslin Chapel, 
near Edinburgh. It has been supposed that this was in- 
tended for the reception of the portion of the cross already 
referred to, though it may also have been used in the 
celebration of the burial mass. The other monument ii 

* Wright. 



138 DUBLIN TO CORK* 

also riclily ornamented, and is supported by pillars of 
black marble. 

This latter memorial occupies the place of honour, i.e.. 
on the south side of the high altar, and hence is believed 
by many to be the tomb of the founder O'Brien ; but the 
arms with which it is enriched are those of England and 
France, with those of the Butlers and Fitzgeralds. " From 
an inspection," says Wright, " of these heraldic proofs, and 
reference to the peerage, it is concluded that this elegant 
monumental structure was raised to the memory of the 
daughter of the Earl of Ealdare, wife of James, fourth 
Earl of Ormonde, commonly called ^ The White Earll who 
died about the year 1450." Many doubts exist as to the 
piece of the ^* true cross ; " but Dr. Petrie, the celebrated 
antiquarian, asserts that it still exists, and on the authority 
of Dr. Milner describes its appearance and preservation at 
the time of the Dissolution. " As a monastic ruin," Dr. 
Petrie writes, " the abbey of Holy Cross ranks in popular 
esteem as one of the first, if not the very first, in Ireland, 
But though many of its architectural features are of re- 
markable beauty, it is perhaps, as a whole, scarcely deserv- 
ing of so high a character ; and its effect upon the mind 
is greatly diminished by the cabins and other objects of a 
mean character by which it is surrounded." The village, 
apart from the ruins, is of no interest or importance. 

Cashel. — The town of Cashel was once the residence of 
the kings of Munster, but is now a place of little note save 
for its proximity to the most remarkable and interesting 
combination of ruins in Ireland. 

The Rock of Cashel, which is crowned with ancient re- 
mains, was in the middle ages the habitation of the chiefs 
of the Magh Feimin, afterwards known as the Macarthys, 
hereditary chiefs of this district. The country round is a 
rich and extensive plain, out of which the rock of Cashel 
rises ^ith great boldness and abruptness. It contains on 
its summit a magnificent assemblage of ruins, which, 
•* though roofless and windowless, and greatly shattered, 



ISE ROCK OF CASHEL. 139 

Btill stand up in almost their original lieight from theii 
fiplendid platform." They consist of a cathedral, a chapel, 
a palace, an aircient ecclesiastical domestic building called 
tne " Vicar's choral-house," a round tower, and a great 
stone cross. The most ancient of these are the round 
tower and the chapel, which is ascribed to Cormac Mac- 
Cullinan, " at once king and archbishop of Cashel." Cor- 
mac was bom in 837, and spent the early, and indeed the 
greater part of his life in a monastery, where, about the 
year 900, he composed the celebrated " Psalter of Cashel^'* 
and a history of Ireland written in the Irish language. 
He was nearly seventy years of age before coming to the 
throne, and soon became entangled in war with the 
monarch Flan, which resulted in his own death in the 
year 908, after a troubled reign of five years. The chapel 
is built of he^m stone — " both walls and roof, the sides or 
legs of which are tangents to a counter-arch, springing 
from the inner part of the walls. The doorway is in the 
Saxon style, which pervades also the other parts of the 
chapel, and is adorned wdth zig-zag and bead ornaments. 
Above the archway of one of its portals is the effigy of an 
archer in the act of shooting at an ideal animal. The 
ceiling or roof is of stone, groined, with square ribs 
springing from stunted Saxon pillars, Tvdth enriched capitals. 
There is one rich Saxon arch, ornamented with grotesque 
heads of men and animals, placed at intervals all round 
from the base upwards ; and a second arch within the 
chancel, probably intended to receive the altar. The walls 
ai-e relieved by pilasters and panelled arcades. The pilas- 
ters of these arcades are highly ornamented with fret and 
scroll work. As it is, few could credit the elaborate 
beauty and magnificence evidenced by these walls. The 
existence of a stone roof has tended wonderfully to 
preserve from decay the carvings on the arches and 
capitals. The cathedral, built in the pointed style, is 
of a later date. In the year 1495 the turbulent Earl 
of Kildare desiring to destroy Archbishop Creagh, set 



140 DUBLIN TO CORK. 

fire to the cathedral. It is recorded that — "He readily 
confessed his guilt, and added ^ that he never would 
have done it, but that he thought the "Archbishop was 
within at the time.' The candour and simplicity of 
his confession convinced king Henry that he could not be 
capable of the intrigues and duplicity with which he 
was charged ; and when the Bishop of Meath concluded 
the last article of the impeachment with the remark- 
able words, * You see all Ireland cannot rule this gentle- 
man ;' the king rastantly replied, ' Then he shall rule 
all Ireland,' and forthwith appointed him to the lord- 
lieutenancy of that kingdom." The cathedral is a con- 
spicuous object for many miles round. Divine service 
continued to be performed within it until the time of Arch- 
bishop Price, who in 1752 removed the roof from the 
choir, and converted the whole into a ruin. The measure- 
ment of the cathedral from east to west is stated to be 
about 200 feet. The round tower, like most others, has 
no written history. • It stands in close connection with the 
cathedral, from which there is a communication opened 
through the solid masonry of the tower, at a height of 
upwards of 20 feet from the ground. The round tower is 
90 feet high, and " it is curiously indicative of its distinct 
origin from that of the other buildings on the rock, that it 
is built of an entirely different stone, the tower being 
sandstone, while the castle and church are of litnestone. 
Doubtless it stood solitary here for generations, perhaps 
for ages, before the rock of Cashel was made the abode of 
St. Mary's monks, or the fortress of the kings of Munster.'"^ 
The castle which adjoins the cathedral appears to have 
been a place of great strength, the very beau-ideal of a 
feudal hold. " The city," says Seward, " was originally 
surrounded by a wall, which, though now mouldering, 
seems to have been of better materials than the generality 
of such enclosures ; two gates are still remaining of toler- 
able workmanship." In 1647 Lord Inchiquin stormed the 
* Sir John Forbes. 



HOEE ABBEY. 141 

rock, and put to death all the clergy lie coiild find. A 
stone is pointed out to the visitor, a little way from the 
round tower, which is said to be that on which the Irish 
Kings were crowned. Tradition states that the original 
coronation stone, which had the power of uttering a groan 
when pressed by a royal personage, was lent to Fergus, 
king of Albanian Scots, for his coronation, and never re- 
turned to Ireland. Close to the ruins will be observed a very 
handsome colossal Irish cross, which was erected some years 
ago of Portland stone, to the memory of Dionisius Scully. 

Hore Abbey ^ or Grey Friars, is situated about haK a mile 
south of the cathedral. It was originally a Benedictine 
monastery, but in 1272 David MacCarvill, archbishop of 
Cashel, being, as he told his mother, forewarned in a 
dream that the black monks or Benedictines intended to 
cut off his head, banished them, and supplied their places 
with monks of the Cistercian order, for whom he founded 
Hore Abbey, and endowed it with the forfeited lands of 
the Benedictines. The parish sexton -vnIII open the gates 
of the cathedral for visitors. Bound about the ruins is 
an enclosed green of about three acres, partly appropriated 
as a burial-ground. It is open to the public, and from 
it the view is particularly pleasing, embracing a large 
extent of fertile land under good tillage. 

The modern cathedral or parish-church is a handsome 
building, but the town itself, with the exception of the 
main street, consists of dirty crooked streets, with a mix- 
ture of WTetched thatched cottages. It contains about 
5000 inhabitants, and returns one member to Parlia- 
ment. 

Fethard is ten miles from Cashel to the south-east ; 
about twelve miles from Cahir, and eight from Clonmel. 
This town is remarkable for the preservation of some of 
its walls and fortifications, erected in the time of King 
John. Three of the five entrances to the town are through 
castellated archways. The abbey was founded early in the 
fourteenth century. Fethard was a borough before the 



142 DUBLIN TO CORK. 

Union, returning two members to Parliament. The patroiv 
age was in the family of O'Callaghan. 

Mitchellstoion Caves are at the extreme south-west of the 
county, about six miles from the town of the same name 
(which is in County Cork), and ten miles in a south- 
western direction from the Cahir Station, on the Water- 
ford and Limerick line. There is an old cave which is 
seldom visited, and a new cave discovered in 1833 by a 
quarryman who lost his crowbar, and going in search of it 
came upon the entrance of the cavern, a long narrow pas- 
sage extending about 300 feet. Several caves are met 
with in the expedition, which should never be undertaken 
without the assistance of one or two guides. What is 
termed the lower middle cave is thus described : — 

"In shape its ground-plan resembles a mattress, or bottle with cylin- 
drical neck and globular bottom, the diameter of the latter being ninety- 
five, and the length and diameter of the former seventy-two and forty-two 
feet respectively. The vertical section of its wider end is that of a dome or 
hemisphere, the apex of which has an elevation from its base of thirty-five 
feet. Stalactites of small size depend from the roof, and a sheeting of 
sparry matter is observable all along the joints of the limestone, and covers 
beneath many parts of the floor, where it is usually superimposed upon 
very fine red clay, which would appear to have been washed down by water 
filtering from above before the interstices of the arch were sufficiently 
closed by calcareous incrustations. The floor of this cave is strewed with 
large tetrahedral blocks of limestone." 

The upper-middle cave is generally preferred to the 
lower. In shape, Dr. Apjohn says that the horizontal 
section may be taken as a semi-ellipse, " the axes of which 
are respectively 180 and 80 feet, the major pointing 
directly east and west." Various forms of calcareous 
matter have received the names of the Organ, the Drum, 
the Pyramid, and such-like fanciful appellations. The 
caves are situated on the property of the Earl of Kingston. 

Tipperary^ the town from whence the county derives its 
name, is agreeably situated nearly three miles from the 
Limerick Junction Station, in a fine undulatiag country at 
tlie base of the Slieve-na-muck or Tipperary hills, a portion 
of the Galtee range ; the name is said to be derived from 



CLONMEL. 143 

the Irish Tohar-a-neidih, i.e., " the well of the plains." in 
allusion to its situation. Tipperary, a town of about 6000 
inhabitants, contains an elegant Roman Catholic chapel in 
the pointed style. There are many residences of the 
nobility and gentry in the neighbourhood ; among others 
Bally Kisteen, the seat of the Earl of Derby. 

Athassel, celebrated for its priory, is situated about a 
mile from Golden Bridge, about six miles from Dundrum 
Station, five from Cashel, and seven from Tipperary. The 
priory was founded about the year 1200, by William Fitz- 
Adelin de Burgo, for canons regular of the Augustinian 
order. The choir is stated to be forty-four feet by twenty- 
six, and the nave, supported by lateral aisles, was exter- 
nally 117 feet in length. The finest remnant of the priory 
is its doorway, in the transition style of architecture. The 
founder, who had been steward for Henry II., died in 1204, 
and was buried at Athassel. 

Cahtr, delightfully situated on the banks of the fine 
river Suir, is a " Quaker town," and though insignificant 
in extent, has an appearance of cleanness and comfort. 
The castle was built at a very remote period, and has been 
at various times added to and repaired. In 1599 it was 
taken by the Earl of Essex, and in 1650 by CromwelL 
There is a handsome mansion-house here. The demesne 
attached occupies both banks of the river for about two 
miles below the town, and abounds in beautiful scenery. 
The population of Cahir in 1871 was 3710. 

Cloiimel has a station on the Waterford and Limerick 
Railway, 21 \ miles from the Junction, and 134 J from 
Dublin. This is the largest town of the county, containing 
a population of 11,104 ; it is also the assize town for the 
South Riding, and famous as being the birth-place of the 
great humorist Sterne. It stands on both sides of the river 
Suir, here crossed by a bridge of twenty arches, and on 
Moire and Long Islands, which are connected with the 
mainland by three bridges. The name is accounted for by 
a tradition which states that some of the gigantic inhabi* 



144 DUBLIN TO CORK. 

tants of early Ireland wishing to fix upon a place to erect 
a camp, let off a swarm of bees, wliicli settled on a spot 
near the site of the present town, and on it was erected an 
ancient circular fort, seen at the present day. The spot 
then assumed the name of Cluain-mealla, the " Plain of 
Honey." On this circular mound a castle was built at a 
later period. In 1650 took place the memorable siege of 
Clonmel by Cromwell, who after having suffered a loss 
of 2000 men, succeeded in compelling the garrison to 
capitulate, when he demolished the castles and fortifica- 
tions, of which now only the ruins remain. The Gothic 
church has not shared the same fate as that on the Eock 
of Cashel. It is still used as a place of worship, and is 
consequently kept in good repair. The steeple is octagonal, 
embattled, and eighty-four feet in height. Near the top 
are Gothic openings in each of the eight sides. The 
Gothic tracery of the east window has been much admired, 
being thought by some superior to that of the windows of 
Holy Cross. The base of the steeple is square, and seems 
to be of a much older date than any other portion of the 
building. At the opposite side of the church is another 
square building, similar in every respect to the base of 
the steeple. It requires no great stretch of imagina- 
tion to conceive that these are the remains of a building, 
ecclesiastical or baronial, of great antiquity. The church- 
yard is in a great measure encompassed by the old city 
wall. At intervals on it are observable the remains of 
square towers. Various fine walks are to be had in the 
neighbourhood of the town, which is situated in the midst 
of much beautiful and highly picturesque scenery. The 
favourite promenade is Fairy Hill Road. Heywood affords 
a pleasant walk, as also the Wilderness and the Quay. 
Clonmel contains thfe usual buildings common to county 
towns, a large distillery, various extensive flour mills, and 
Mr. Malcolmson's cotton factory. It was here that Mr. 
Bianconi first established his system of cheap and ex- 
peditious car-travelling, and from hence it radiated over 



COUNTY CARLOW. 145 

ihe south and west of Ireland — carrying, as one writer 
expresses it, " civilization and letters into some of the 
wildest haunts of the radest races in Erin's Isle ! " 

Carrick-on-Suir is the next station after Clonmel. It 
is 148 miles from DubKn. This towTi is situated chiefly 
in Tipperary, but partly in the County Waterford, the two 
parts being imited by a bridge over the Suir ; it is also 
uitliin a few minutes' walk of the County Kilkenny. 
The castle and park adjoining belong to the Butler family. 
It was formerly a walled town, and part of the wall still 
remains. The woollen manufacture was at one time carried 
on here very extensively, but is now quite decayed. It 
gives title of Earl to a branch of the Butler family, as it 
did formerly to the Duke of Ormond. 

COUNTY CAELOW is, with the exception of Louth, 
the smallest county in Ireland, containing an area of 
221,342 acres, of which fully nine-tenths are arable, 
and only 31,000 uncultivated. The population in 1871 
was 51,472. The county is completely inland, nor is 
it traversed by any considerable rivers. The Barrow 
passes through on the west side, and the Slaney runs 
almost parallel with it on the east. To the north, Wick- 
low, Kildare, and Queen's County, are the boundaries. 
Kilkenny, on the west, unites at the southern Wexford, 
the eastern boundary. It returns two county members 
to Parliament. 

Carlow, the county town, is on the river Barrow, which 
is navigable by barges down to Waterford. It returns one 
member to Parliament, though in good old times before the 
Union it sent, or rather the Burton family sent, two. The 
town is well built, and has a handsome, modem aspect, 
although it was a place of importance as early as the twelfth 
century. Hugh De Lacy, lord-deputy of Ireland, erected 
the castle in 1179 to protect the settlers from the Irish* 
The exchequer of the kingdom was established here in 1361 
by the Duke of Clarence, who, moreover, had the town 
L 



146 DUBLIN TO CORK. 

fortified. In 1494 tlie castle was taken from Sir Edward 
Poynings by James, brother of the Earl of Kildare ; another 
of the same family, Lord Thomas Fitzgerald, kept it during 
his rebellion in 1534. In the wars of the Protectorate it 
played an important part, being besieged and bombarded 
by the parliamentary forces under Ireton ; and was finally 
surrendered on honourable terms. 

Ireton wrote a despatch to the governor, requesting him to surrender, 
adding, " We have been your gentle neighbours hitherto, doing little more 
than looking upon you. But the time being come now that we are like to 
deal in earnest with your garrison as effectually and speedily as God shall 
enable us, that I may not be wanting on my part to save any of the blood 
which may be spilled therein, I am willing, on a timely surrender, to give 
terms to so fair an enemy." 

Of the castle nothing now remains save two comer 
towers, about sixty feet in height, and the connecting wall, 
the rest having been blown up with gunpowder by a medi- 
cal gentleman, who, in 1814, contemplated converting it 
into a lunatic asylum. Seward, who writes fifteen years 
before this event, describes the castle as it stood within the 
memory of many now living. " On an eminence," says he, 
'^ overhanging the river Barrow^ stands an old castle of an 
oblong square area, with large round towers at each angle, 
which has a fine effect." 

Carlow contains handsome English and Catholic churches, 
a Roman Catholic College, and the usual buildings found 
in county towns. A portion of the town called Graigue is 
.situated in the Queen's County. 

THE COUNTY KILKENNY contains an area of 
509,732 acres, and a total population, according to the 
census of 18^1, of 109,302. Scarcely a sixteenth part of 
the county is uncultivated. Two members are returned 
to Parliament for the county, and one for the county town. 
i\jithracitic or " Kilkenny coal" is wrought in this county 
as well as in Queen's County and Carlow. Carboniferous 
Utiiestone, abounding in fossils, is found here. 



KILKENNY CASTLE. 147 

Kilkenny City {Hotels : Club House, and Imperial) is the 
chief town in the county, and though out of the regular 
route, is worthy of a visit by the antiquary on account of 
its numerous archaeological remains. The population of the 
city in 1871 was 12,664 ; it is situated on the Nore, here 
crossed by two bridges. Along the bank of the river 
there is a public promenade called the Mall, which lias 
been much improved of late. The manufactures of the 
town, comprising blankets and coarse woollens, are now 
unimportant. 

"The entrance to Kilkenny," writes N. P. Willis, " and the romantic 
view of the castle of the Ormonds rising above the river, remind me strongly 
of one of the views of Warwick Castle. The first impression of the town 
from a cursory glance is extremely fine ; the cathedral of St. Canice, the 
castle, and other very imposing structures, coming into almost every view, 
from the unevenness of the ground, and the happily-chosen sites of all these 
edifices. Kilkenny is divided into two parts, called Irish-towTi (the neigh- 
bourhood of the cathedral) and English-town (that of the castle), the latter 
thrifty-looking and well-built, and having an air of gentility, in which many 
of the second class of Irish towns are rather deficient. " 

Kilkenny Castle was built in 1195, on the site of an older 
one erected by Earl Strongbow in 1172, and destroyed in 
the following year by Donald O'Brien, king of Limerick. 

" The situation," writes Dr. Ledwich, " in a military view, was most 
eligible ; the ground was originally a conoid, the elliptical side abrupt and 
precipitous, with the river running rapidly at its base ; there the natural 
rampart was faced with a wall of solid masonry, 40 feet high ; the other 
parts were defended by bastions, courtins, towers, and outworks, and on 
the summit the castle was erected." 

The castle is the residence of the Marquess of Ormonde. 
The founder of this family, Theobald Walter, was one of the 
retinue of King Henry II., and received from that monarch 
a large grant of land in Ireland and the appointment as 
hereditary chief-butler of Ireland, from which office the 
family name of Boteler, Le Botiller, or Butler, is derived. 
In 1319 James Butler, third Earl of Ormonde, purchased 
the castle from the Pembroke family, and with his descen- 
dants it has remained until the present day. Kichard 11.- 
spent two weeks in it with the Earl in 1399. In March 
1 650 Cromwell having invested the city, opened his cannon 



148 DUBLIN TO CORK. 

upon the castle, and a breach was effected, but the besiegers 
were twice gallantly repulsed, and the breach quickly re- 
paired. The mayor and townsmen having traitorously 
admitted Cromwell into the city, and the latter being joined 
by Ireton, Sir Walter Butler judged it expedient, in order 
to save the people from massacre, to capitulate, which 
he did upon honourable terms, he and his officers being 
complimented by Cromwell, who said they were gallant 
fellows, and that he had lost more men in storming that 
place than in taking Drogheda, and should have gone with- 
out it, had it not been for the treachery of the townsmen. 
During the thirteenth, fourteenth, and fifteenth centuries, 
great jealousies existed between the two divisions of Kil- 
kenny — ^the English and Irish towns, the former of which 
still retains its name — and the law had frequently to 
interfere in behaK of the oppressed Irish, or to guard the 
rights of the English. The appearance of the castle at the 
present day conveys the idea of comfort and elegance as 
well as strength. The towers and bastions were recastel- 
lated, and the whole structure brought into a state of 
general repair by the late Marquess. The building, with 
the exception of three massive towers, is of modern con- 
struction. The interior decorations also are modern in 
style. The picture gallery, 150 feet in length, forms one 
of the chief attractions, containing an excellent collection 
of paintings, of which the most interesting are portraits of 
the Ormonde family. 

St. Camce's Cathedral is the most interesting among the 
many ecclesiastical remains in Kilkenny."^ 

** It was commenced about the year 1180 by Felix O'DuUany, who trans- 
lated the see of Sagir from Aghaboe to Kilkenny. The greatness of the first 
design was such as its authors could never expect to see completed, which 

* So numerous are church ruins in Kilkenny, that an elegant writer on 
Ireland makes the following characteristic remark :— " Our way was guided 
through numerous alleys and by-lanes, to examine relics of the olden time • 
we found wretched hovels propped up by carved pillars ; and in several 
instances discovered Gothic doorways converted into entrances to pig- 
^ym."— Hall's Hibemia Tilustrata. 



gr. canice's cathedral. 149 

tndaced them to cover in and finish the choir, and proceed at once to conse- 
cration, leaving to posterity the sacred task of conducting the noble plan 
to its consummation. This vast pile is craciformed, extending 226 feet from 
east to west, and the length of the transept measuring 123. The nave is 
distributed into a centre and two lateral aisles, communicating by pointed 
arches, springing from plain pillars of black marble. Four pointed windows 
illuminate each aisle, and the upper part of the nave is lighted by five 
quatrefoil windows. The tower, much too low in proportion to the lengths 
of the choir and transept, is supported upon groined arches, springing from 
massive columns of marble. The western window is triplicated, and a cross 
and two Gothic finials crown the centre and angles of the great gable." 

The interior of this venerable pile is in a good state 
of preservation, having been greatly restored by Dean 
Vignolles. Among the monumental remains, which are 
very numerous and interesting, is the tomb of Peter 
Butler, eighth Earl of Ormonde, and his amazonian 
Countess, known by the Irish as Morgyrhead Ghearhodh, 
They both died in the sixteenth century. The countess 
was a Fitzgerald, and as warlike as any of her race. " She 
was always attended by numerous vassals well clothed and 
accoutred, and composing a formidable army." It is related 
that she levied black mail on her less powerful neighbours, 
much in the style of Eob Roy. There is a cenotaph to 
the memory of Dr. Pococke, bishop of Meath, who, while 
bishop of Ossory with Kilkenny, did much towards the 
restoration of St. Canice's Cathedral. Near the cathedral 
is one of the ancient round towers of Ireland, 108 feet in 
height, and in good preservation. 

>S'^. John^s, known as the Lantern of Ireland, from the 
number of its windows, was formerly an abbey founded in 
the thirteenth century, afterwards much dilapidated, but 
re-edified in 1817, and since used as a parish church. 
Black Ahhey^ also founded in the thirteenth century, now 
. a "Roman Catholic chapeL It would be impossible within 
our limits to notice all the ruins and memorials with which 
Kilkenny abounds, or to do full justice to those which we 
do notice. Days may be well spent in searching them out. 
Kilkenny was the birth-place of the Irish Walter Scott^ 
John Banim, who represented the character of his country. 



150 DUBLIN TO CORK. 

men with more truth and pictui'esque ejffect than any other 
of the Irish novelists. At Kilkenny several trials for 
witchcraft have taken place, the most remarkable being 
that of Lady Alice Kettel in 1325.* 

Jerpoint Abhey, one mile from Thomasto"\vn Station on 
the Waterford and Kilkenny Eailway, and twelve miles 
south of Kilkenny, is a very interesting ruin, situated on 
the river Nore. " In wealth, honours, and architectural 
splendours," writes N. P. Willis, " Jerpoint was exceeded by 
no other monastic institution in Ireland. The demesne 
lands extended over 1500 acres of fertile ground, and the 
buildings included the abbey-church and tower, a refectory, 
dormitory, and offices, that occupied an area of three 
acres. The whole of this property, bequeathed for objects 
purely sacred, was granted at the Dissolution to Thomas 
Butler, tenth Earl of Ormonde, at an annual rent of 
£49 : 3 : 9." The founder was Donald M^Gilla Patrick, 
Prince of Ossory ; his tomb is placed opposite the high 
altar, ornamented with two recumbent figures. The archi- 
tecture combines the Anglo-Norman and the Gothic styles ; 
what remains is extremely beautiful, but wantonness and 
neglect have well nigh completed the destruction of this 
once extensive and beautiful structure. 

The tourist who is desirous of exploring the varied 
beauties of scenery with which the banks of the river Nora 
abound, from Kilkenny to its junction with the Barrow, 

* The following is a paragraph from a letter by Mr. Crofton Croker, on 
the subject of witchcraft in Ireland, published in the Dublin Journal : — 
** Irel'and has been, in my opinion, unjustly stigmatized as a barbarous 
and superstitious country. It is certain that the cruel persecution carried 
on against poor and ignorant old women was as nothing in Ireland when 
compared with other countries. In addition to the three executions at 
Kilkenny, a town the inhabitants of which were almost entirely either Eng- 
lish settlers or of English descent, I only remember to have met with an 
account of one other execution for the crime of witchcraft. The latter took 
place at Antrim in 1699, and it is, I believe, the last an record. The par- 
ticulars of this siUy tragedy were printed in a pamphlet entitled, * The be- 
witching of a Child in Ireland,' and from thence copied by Professor 
Sinclair, in his work entitled, ' Satan's Invisible World Discovered,' which 
Sb frequently referred to by Sir Walter Scott in his Letters on Demonology." 



COUNTY WATERFORD. 151 

near New Eoss, will find Thomastown a good central 
Btation. The town itself is poor, but situated in a very- 
picturesque country^ and contains an inn where convey- 
ances can be obtained. 

Kells, also reached from Thomastown Station, from which 
it is 7^ miles distant, is an ancient city, founded by a fol- 
lower of Earl Strongbow's, called Geo&ey Fitz-Robert, his 
object being to provide a garrison for the subjugation ol 
.the Tipperary Irish, Like most other of the invaders, he 
sought peace to his conscience by founding a religious 
house, which gradually became a place of greater import- 
ance until dissolved in the reign of Henry VIII. The 
Prior was a spiritual lord in Parliament. Portions of the 
ruins, comprising the remains of towers and walls and the 
cloisters, still attract some attention to the place. There 
is a town of Kells in the county of Meath, where a 
monastery was founded by the famous St. Columbkille ; 
also a third place of the same name in the County Antrim. 

COUNTY WATERFORD is situated south of the 
counties of Tipperary and Kilkenny, bounded on the west 
by the County Cork, and on the south by St. George's 
Channel. The County is generally mountainous, crossed 
as it is by Kjiockmeledown, Cummeragh, Monevolagh, and 
other hill-ranges, but toward the east its surface is low and 
marshy. The area amounts to 461,553 acres, of which 
three-fourths are arable, and 24,000 acres laid out in plan- 
tations. In 1871, the population was 99,488 (excluding 
the city), which gives an average of about four acres to each 
inhabitant, being nearly the average for Ireland. 



152 



WATERFORD. 

HoTiLS.— The Imperial and The Adelphi, on the MalL The Commercial, 

on the Quay. 
Mail cars to Lismore— to Bungarvan— to Dunmore — to Wexford (Fethard) 
— and to Waterford via New Ross. 

Markets on Monday, Wednesday, Thursday, and Saturday. 

The City of Waterford, whicli is situate on tlie Suit, 
here crossed by a wooden bridge of 39 arcbes, was anciently' 
known by the name of Guanna-Grioth, or the Haven of the 
Sun. It was afterwards called Gleanrir-na-Gleodh, or Valley 
of Lamentation, from the tremendous conflicts between the 
Irish and the Danes. By old Irish authors it is frequently 
named, from its shape, the Port of the Thigh, It was founded 
in 155, and became a considerable town under Sitric in 853. 
On the lower end of the quay is a Danish tower, built in 
1003, known as Reginald's Tower, from the founder 
Reginald, son of Imar. In 1171, when Strongbow and 
Raymond le Gros took Waterford, it was inhabited by 
Danes, who, with the exception of the Prince of the Danes 
and a few more, were put to death. It was here that Earl 
Strongbow was married to Eva, daughter of the King of 
Leinster, and here too that Henry II. first landed in Ireland 
to take possession of the country which had been granted 
to him by the bull of Pope Adrian. There is a good quay 
on the Suir at Waterford. The city has a population of 
23,337, and returns two members to Parliament. 

steamers saU to and from Liverpool (229 miles) twice a week. Between 
Waterford and Bristol twice a week. Between Waterford and Milford 
Haven daily, in connection with express trains on the Great Western and 
South Wales Railways. Between Waterford and Duucannon and New Ross 
liaiiy. 




lUl-.lidi.vl I'V^I 







U^SL,J',iJ;n^,-ro1i. 



153 

COUNTY COEK. 

County Cork is the most soutlierly and the largest of 
the shires of Ireland. It belongs to the province of 
Munster. Its boundaries are — on the north, Limerick ; 
on the north-east, Tipperary ; on the east, Waterford ; 
and on the south and south-west, the Atlantic. It is 
divided into East and West Eidings, and has a total area 
of 1,849,685 acres ; of which 1,416,994 are arable, 
32,709 are laid out in timber, and 379,574 lie waste. 
The remaining 6040 are occupied by the city of Cork, 
and the towns of Youghal, Bandon, Kinsale, etc. The 
western surface of the county is mountainous, that on the 
north and east rich and fertile. In the south-east the 
Silurian strata crop up, though old red sandstone and 
mountain limestone prevail elsewhere. Copper and coal 
are found among its minerals. The chief crops raised on 
its cultured soil are wheat, oats, potatoes, etc. The 
county is well watered, small lakes are numerous in it, 
the rivers Lee and Bandon hold their whole course through 
it, and the Blackwater affords along the greater part of its 
length facilities for inland navigation by barges as far as 
Cappoquin in Waterford. Cork is supposed to have been 
peopled by an immigration of Iberians from Spain, and 
previous to 1172 it formed the kingdom of the Macarthys. 
The population in 1871 was 516,046. 



COEK. 

Hotels.— Imperial, Pembroke Street ; Royal Victoria, Patrick Street ; 
Commercial, Pembroke Street ; Hibernian, George's Street. 

The city of Cork had in 1861 a population of 80,121 ; 
and in 1871, 78,382. It may be reached by steam- 
packets from London, Liverpool, Glasgow, Milford Haven, 
Bristol, Plymouth, Cardiff, etc. ; and by railway from 
Dublin direct by the Great Southern and Western Eail- 
way (165^ miles). 



154 CORK. 

Cabs. — ^The fares for jaunting cars (by time or distance) are fixed by tlie 
Corporation, and may be learned at the hotels, etc. Special public cars 
ply to Blackrock, Blarney, Glanmire, Passage, and Queenstown. 

Cork is generally termed tlie capital of the south. It 
returns two members to Parliament, and is a corporate city, 
governed by a mayor, sixteen aldermen, and forty-eight 
councillors, with a staff of paid officials. The town is 
situated on the banks of the river Lee, which, after passing 
the city, widens out into a splendid bay or inlet of the sea, 
containing the Great Island, on which is situated the town 
of Cove, now changed into Queenstown. The southern 
extremity of this inlet is called the Cove of Cork. Cork 
had long been the home of a Pagan temple, on the site of 
which St. Fionn Bar, the anchorite from Gougane Barra, 
founded a monastery in the beginning of the seventh 
century. The Danes, who in the ninth century overran 
the kingdom, are said to have been the founders of the 
city, and to have surrounded it with walls, although it is 
more probable that under St. Fionn Bar it had assumed a 
degree of importance, seeing that it is recorded that his 
seminary was attended by 700 scholars, " who flocked in 
from all parts."* 

The inhabitants of Cork frequently devastated the whole 
country round, and were in turn punished by the neigh- 
bouring chiefs. The English settlers who had obtained a 
footing were held in great dislike by the natives, who for 
several centuries looked upon them as lawful spoil. The 
McCarthys and O'Mahonys were ancient proprietors of the 
country. In 1493, Perkin Warbeck, the impostor king, 
was received in Cork with regal honours, in reward for 
which, the deluded mayor was hanged and beheaded, and 
the city lost its then ancient charter, which was however 
restored to it in 1609. Kalph Holingshed the chronicler, 

* " Corroch or Corcagh, the Irish name of Cork, is, like all Irish names of 
places, strikingly descriptive. It signifies a swamp, to which the situation 
of the city, on two marshy islands, fully entitles it. The whole district on 
the south and west of the river Lee was called Corcagh Luighe, i.e., Cork o/ 
the Lee." 



CORK. 155 

whose works were published in 1577, thus describes the 
state of the city of Cork : — 

*' On the land side they are encumbered with evil neighbours — the Irisah 
outlaws, that they are fain to watch their gates hourlie, to keep them shut 
at service-time, and at meales, from sun to sun, nor suffer anie stranger to 
enter the citie with his weapon, but the same to leave at a lodge appointed. 
They walk out at seasons for recreation with power of men furnished. 
They trust not the country adjoining, but match in wedlocke among them- 
selves onlie, so that the whole citie is well nigh linked one to the other in 
aflfinitie." 

In the war of the Protectorate, Cork held out as a loyal 
city, but in 1649 was surprised and taken. The cruelties 
perpetrated by the conqueror and his soldiers are well 
known.* Though Cork is now a well built and really 
handsome city, if we except some of the meaner streets in 
the northern part, the houses were at one time so closely 
packed, and the streets so narrow, that it might be said of 
most of them as of the " auld brig o' Ayr, 

" poor narrow footpath o' a street, 

Where twa wheelbarrows tremble when they meet." 

One narrow lane, not a dozen feet wide, still bears the 
distinguishing title of " Broad Lane." " In Old Bridewell 
Lane, a passage not more than four feet in breadth, stood 
the corn- market. In similar narrow lanes were to be 
foimd the fish-market, post-office, and assembly-rooms. In 
Dingle Lane stood the old theatre, upon whose boards 
Barry and Mossop delighted their audience, about the 
middle of the last century." The principal modem streets 
are ia that portion of the town known as the island, 

* " It is related that Cromwell, during his short sojourn in Cork, caused 
the church bells to be cast into cannon. On being remonstrated with 
against committing such a profanity, he replied that as a priest had been 
the inventor of gunpowder, he thought the best use for bells w6uld be to 
cast them into cannons. The jest is not very brilliant, but as one of the 
few that Cromwell attempted, it is worthy of being preserved." 

It was in Cork that William Penn, the father of Pennsylvania, became a 
convert to Quakerism. He visited the city in order to look after some ol 
his father's property, and changed his religion under the preaching of one 
Thomas Loe. He was thrown into prison with eighteen fellow-converta, 
bat soon after released. 



156 CORK. 

bounded almost completely by the river. This island is con- 
nected with the shores on either side by six bridges, foui 
spanning the stream on the south, and two on the north. 

Patrick's Bridge crosses the stream which bounds the 
city on the north. It was erected from the plan and under 
the superintendence of Sir John Benson, in 1860, the 
material being chiefly limestone. It occupies the site of 
the old bridge erected in 1798, which was partially de- 
stroyed by a flood in 1851. The width of the new bridge 
is sixty feet between the parapets, and is thus broader than 
any bridge over the Thames except that at Westminster. 
Its roadway and footpath are laid with granite. 

Parliament Bridge is on the south side, leading into the 
South Mall. It is a fine bridge, not much inferior to St. 
Patrick's. The other bridges are of no note. On the north 
is North Bridge, and on the south are Clark's, South, and 
Anglesea Bridges. The streets deserving of notice are 

>S'^. Patrick Street^ where a handsome statue of Father 
Mathew, the Apostle of Temperance, has been erected. It 
forms a sort of crescent, extending in a westerly direc- 
tion to the Grand Parade, and is of great width, but un- 
fortunately for architectural effect, the houses are so irre- 
gular as regards elevation and condition, as in a measure 
to destroy the beauty of the whole. 

Grand Parade is a fine straight street, but has the same 
fault as St. Patrick Street. The tourist will hardly believe 
that, when crossing either of these streets, he has a deep 
channel underneath his feet ; yet such is the truth. An 
equestrian statue of George II. used to be a conspicuous 
object on the parade, until one night, some years ago, it 
disappeared and was found in the river ! 

The South Mall runs at right angles with the Parade. 
Though not the widest, it is yet the most respectable street 
in Cork, being occupied by professional men, and the chief 
merchants. About a hundred years ago the middle of this 
street was a river, and the south side formed one side of a 
triangular island, the other two sides being formed by 
Charlotte Quay and Morrison Quay. The bank of Ire- 



MARDYKE. 157 

land, the Stamp Office, and the Comity Club House, are 
situated in this street — the latter building erected in 1826 
at an outlay of £4000 ; as also the Commercial Buildings, 
the Protestant Hall, and the Cork Library. 

Great George^ & Street is the newest and most regular street 
in Cork ; it is continued as the Western Road. Parallel 
with this latter is the celebrated 

Mardyke, once the promenade of the fashionables of 
Cork, though now consigned to the tradespeople and shop 
keepers. It still forms a fine avenue extending to a dis- 
tance of a mile, and overshadowed by tall elm trees, whose 
luxuriant branches entwine above in a roof of soft verdure. 
The aspect of this road is varied, if not heightened, by a 
row of lamps suspended overhead. To the left we have a 
view of the Queen's College, a handsome quadrangular 
structure in the Tudor Gothic style, situated on a slight 
eminence over the southern fork of the river. Cork, though 
a well-built city, cannot vie with Dublin in its public 
buildings. The principal edifices are the following : — 

The Custom House, which is a handsome building, occu- 
pies a tongue of land, where the two streams meet at a 
somewhat acute angle on the eastern side of the city. To 
the east of it is the whole stretch of the river Lee ; on 
the north the terminus of the railway to Dublin ; and on 
the south the Cork and Bandon and the Cork and Passage 
Eailway termini. 

Shandon Church (St. Ann's) is a plain, rather grotesque- 
looking edifice, with a steeple which seems as if built in 
storeys. The church was begun in 1722, "and its steeple 
was constructed of hewn stone from the Franciscan Abbey, 
where James H. heard mass, and from the ruins of Lord 
Barry's castle, which had been the official residence of the 
lords-president of Munster, and from whence this quarter 
of the city takes its name — Shandon (Seandun) signifying 
in Irish the old fort or castle." * Three sides of the steeple 
aie budt of limestone, and the fourth of a red stone. Its 
♦ Crofton Croker. 



158 CORK. 

height is 120 feet. Shandon, however, has a good chime 
of bells, which, although not very excellent in themselves, 
are celebrated on account of the lyrics which they have 
given rise to. We quote two stanzas from that by the 
Rev. Francis Mahony. 

*• With deep affection ** I have heard bells chiming 

And recollection Fnll many a clime in, 

I often think on Tolling sublime in 

Those Shandon bells, Cathedral shrine ; 

Whose sound so wild would While at a glib rate 

In the days of childhood, Brass tongues would vibrate, 

Fling round my cradle But all their music 

Their magic spells. Spoke nought like thine." 

The Royal Cork Institution was founded in 1803 "for 
the diffusion of knowledge, and the improvement of the ' 
arts and sciences." The library is extensive, embracing 
valuable modem works, and interesting Irish manuscripts. 
The museum contains, among other treasures, a series of 
stones " inscribed with the Ogham character, peculiar 
to Ireland, and used by the Druids previous to the intro- 
duction of Christianity, when those simple letters were 
gradually discarded, and the Roman substituted." 

The Cathedral of St. Fionn Bar is on the south side of 
the southern stream. " In the reign of Edward IV. there 
were eleven churches and parishes in and adjoining the 
city. Some of these have long ceased to exist, but their 
loss has been amply compensated by the number of 
churches, chapels, and dissenting houses of worship, which 
have sprung up in modem times." The cathedral has no 
great beauty to recommend it to the tourist's special atten- 
tion. It is a small building, with plain exterior and in- 
terior. The original edifice stood in a state of ruin until 
1725, when it was taken down, and rebuilt ten years after. 
A large and handsome Transition-Norman edifice has been 
erected from a design by Mr. Burgess of London. 

St. Patrick^s Roman Catholic Church is a neat building 
in the Grecian order of architecture. A portico stands in 
front supported by eight lofty columns ; a cupola rests on 



QUEEN S COLLEGE. 159 

the roof, borne upon eight Corinthian columns, each sur- 
mounted by a figure representing one of the apostles. A 
cross rises over the whole. 

JSL Mary's Churchy belonging to the Dominicans, is an- 
other Grecian structure. The hexastyle portico is Ionic. 

The Eoman Catholic Church of 8S. Peter and Paul, off 
St. Patrick Street, is a rich Gothic building, designed by 
E. W. Pugin, which cost about £30,000. 

The City Gaol is at tiie north-west angle of the towTi. 
It is a spacious castellated building, with a himdred and 
two separate cells, being fifty-four for male, and forty-eight 
for female prisoners. A portion is appropriated to the 
confinement of prisoners previous to their committal by 
the magistrates. 

The C-ounty Gaol is separated from the last by the two 
rivers, the Mardyke, and the Western Road. From the 
latter it is approached. This prison is nearly self-supporting. 
The inmates are taught weaving, mat-making, shoemaking, 
tailoring, etc. It is afcmed that "634 have been instructed 
in one year, in various trades and employments, of which 
they knew nothing whatever on entering the prison." 

QUEEN'S COLLEGE occupies a picturesque site on a 
rock rising fully forty feet above the level of the southern 
branch of the stream. Gill Abbey, founded in the seventh 
century by Gill Ada, bishop of Cork, stood on the same 
site. The college buildings consist of three sides of a 
quadrangle, in the Gothic style of architecture, and com- 
posed of mountain limestone. Sir Thomas Deane was the 
architect, and IVIr. John Butler of Dublin the builder. In 
1849 the College was opened. The examination hall, the 
museimi, the lecture rooms, and the library, are worthy of 
a visit. The tower commands a fine view of the city and 
the Lee, while the northern side of the quadrangle is 
occupied by official residences. As the principles of the 
Queen's Colleges of Cork, Galway, and Belfast are iden- 
tical, it will not be out of place here to give a sketch of 
that of Cork as illustratinpj the whole. 



160 CORK. 

Tlie college is open to all religious sects. There are eighteen professors 
teaching languages and sciences, including Greek, Latin, and the modern, 
tongues ; medicine, surgery, natural history, botany, geology mathematics, 
and chemistry ; besides classes for engineering, political economy, and law. 
The degrees conferable by the college are M.D., LL.D., LL.B., and Bachelor 
of Engineering. Four years' study is required for the Master of Arts degree, 
which costs in class and other fees £32. The degree of A.B. may be had in 
three years at a cost of £29. In order to encourage a spirit of emulation 
among the students, scholarships are open to them in literature and science. 
As an example of the system pursued in conferring scholarships and degrees, 
we will quote from a prospectus the course of study Required for the diploma 
of engineering. The term of study is three years. Before entering they 
must pass a matriculation examination on the following subjects : — 

The outlines of Modem Geography — Grammar — Mathematics — Arith- 
metic—Algebra—Euclid, Books I. to IV. and V., and definitions of Book V. 

Students who liave passed the matriculation examination 
are admitted to the examinations for scholarships of the 
first year, of which there are two. 

Course for the Degree in Civil Engineering. 

First Session.— Mathematics (First Course)— Chemistry— Modem Lang- 
uages — Geometrical Drawing — Office Work — Mineralogy, Geology, and 
Physical Geography. 

Second Session. — Mathematics (Second Course) — Experimental Physics 
—Civil Engineering— Office Work— Field Work. 

Third 6^cssio7i.— Natural Philosophy, applied— Mathematical Physics- 
Civil and Mechanical Engineering— Office Work— Field Work— Engineering 
Excursions. 

Attendance on these Courses shall in all cases be under- 
stood to include passing such examinations as may be ap- 
pointed by the College Council, as well as the Catechetical 
parts of the courses of the lecture. 

The students are compelled to lodge in licensed board- 
ing houses, which are under the inspection of " Deans of 
Eesidences." There are three Deans — one an Episcopalian, 
one a Presbyterian, and one a Roman Catholic. 

The Agricultural Model School, situated on the new 
BaUincollig road, about a mile to the west of the Queen's 
College, is a limestone building of the Elizabethan charac- 
ter, and has attached improved offices and a farm of about 
180 acres. Pupils receive a moderate literary education, 
practical instruction in farming, and are boarded at the 
rate of ^8 per year. 



PUBLIC liUILDINGS. l61 

The District Lunatic Asylum is calculated to contain 
530 classified patients. It is in the Gothic style of archi- 
tecture, consisting of three buildings. 

The Eoraan Catholic Church of the Holy Trinity is 
a Gothic building, chiefly interesting from having been 
founded by the late Theobald Mathew, the apostle of tem- 
perance. The stained glass window which it contains was 
purchased with the fund raised in Cork for the O'Connell 
monument. Father Mathew received the rudiments of his 
education at Kilkenny, thence he proceeded to Maynooth, 
and in Dublin took orders. In Cork he commenced his 
labours, and also his career as the preacher of temperance. 
His brother-in-law, a distiller, supplied him with funds, but 
was at length brought to bankruptcy. Government settled 
upon him an annuity of ^300, in consideration of his 
exertions as a moral reformer. 

The Corn Exchange is a spacious erection, containing a 
Northern Hall, 75 feet square, by 45 feet high. 

The Atherioeum, Nelson Place, is a large building, got up 
by subscription as a lecture-hall, concert-room, and ball- 
room. Its exterior is of Bath stone, in Eoman Doric ; the 
interior is Coiinthian, with fluted pillars. 

The Union Workhouse, the largest in the country, was 
opened for paupers in 1840. The building consists of a 
centre and two wings, with workshops, schools, and hospi 
tals. The inmates work at tailoring, weaving, and other 
trades. A large corn-mill is attached, which is worked by 
the paupers. 

St, Joseph's Cemetery is about a mile distant from town. 
It was formerly the Botanic Garden, and was converted 
into a cemetery by Father Mathew in 1830. The ground 
is well laid out, and neatly planted, after the style of the 
famous Pere la Chaise, near Paris. Among the finer 
specimens of sepulchral architecture which it contains, is a 
sarcophagus of Portland stone, surmounted by a figure of an 
angel, by Hogan, a native of Cork, in white Italian marble. 

To the south-west of the town is the Lough of Cork, a 

M 



162 QUEENRTOWN-. 

sheet of water, only interesting as tlie sr»ene of one of 
Crofton Croker's fairy legends. 

" He says that it was once a small fairy well, covered by a stone, con- 
cerning which a tradition had been handed down from remote times, which 
predicted, that if the stone which covered the well were not replaced 
every morning after the dwellers in the valley had taken from it their daily 
supply of water, a torrent would rush forth and inundate the valley, and 
drown all the inhabitants. This calamity was at length incurred by a cer- 
tain princess, who, neglecting the injunction, forgot to close the mouth ol 
the well, and caused the destruction of her father and his people." 

An interest of a more practical kind is attached to the three reservoirs, 
situated about 300 feet above the level of the city, which supply the inhabi 
tants with two and a half million gallons of fresh water from the river Lee. 
These waterworks were constructed at a cost of £70,000, which, considering 
their extensive character, may be considered as very moderate. 

Few towns in Ireland can boast a wider range of ably 
supported benevolent and charitable institutions than 
Cork. Besides a savings bank and two charitable loan 
societies, it has infirmaries and hospitals for fever, lunacy, 
and other infirmities. It can boast no less than eight 
scientific institutions. But, as a proof of the prevalent 
destitution and improvidence, it is only necessary to state 
that there are no less than thirty-three pawnbrokers 
within the city. 

QUEENSTOWN, 
OE THE COYE OF CORK. 

steamers from Patrick's Bridge all the way, four times a day. Railway 
to Passage every even hour ; thence per steamer to and from Queenstown. 
Railway from Summer Hill terminus all the way every hour. Distance 
from Cork to Queenstown, 11 miles. 

Patrick's Bridges. River Lee. Great Island. 

Merchant's Quay. Blackrock. Queenstown. 

Custom House. Passage. Spike Island, 

Monkstown. 
Hotel at Queenstown : The Queen's. 
Fares for Rowing Boats. 
Queenstown to Spike or Hawlbowline, with four oars, Is. ; with two 
oars, 6d. To Rostellan, 3s. 6d. or Is. 6d. 

Boats not detained more than half an hour convey the passengers back 
for half the fare. 



BLACKROCK. 16^ 

Hiring by the Hour, 
For the first hour Is. or 9d. ; for every hour after the first 6d. 

Hiring by the Day. 
Hired at Cork, 7s. 6d. or 4s. ; at Blackrock, 7s. or 3s. 6d. ; at Queens* 
town, Monkstown, or Passage, 5s. or 2s. 6d. 

To Cloyne — Oared boat to Rostellan, thence by road passing — 
Saleen. I Cloyne. I Round Tower. 

Castle Mary. | Cathedral. | 

The sail from Mercliaiit's Quay to Queenstown should 
be preferred if the weather be fine and time not pressing. 
It ajffords the tourist the most complete view of the river 
below Cork. If the rail to Passage be taken, the steamer 
from thence proceeds through the wider portion of the 
liarbour to Queenstown. 

BLACEJEIOCK is the first promontory worthy of note. 
From the distance its appearance is truly picturesque, 
presenting the idea of a formidable old castle, standing out 
on a tongue of land against the clear waters of the Lee. 
The mansion is one of modern construction, and is familiar 
to almost every one from the many views of it published. 
Blackrock is supposed to be the place from which William 
Penn embarked for America. The steamer, shortly after 
leaving this station, enters a wider portion of the river,, 
known as Loch. Mahon. Foaty Island, the property of 
J. S. Barry, Esq., is passed on the left. 

PASSAGE, whicli is about six miles from Cork, is the 
next station. It is a little town, of some note as a water- 
ing-place. Here the passenger who comes by Blackrock 
railway goes on board the steamer. 

GLENBBOOK, haK a mile further, is a pretty village 
supplied with baths. {Hotel : Royal Victoria.) 

MONKSTOWN {Hotels: Imperial and Victoria) is 
situated about a mile from Passage, and beyond it the 
river widens out into a lake. The castle, which is now a 
ruin, was built in 1636. The story of its erection is 



164 Q UEENSTOWN. 

curious. During tlie absence of her husband In Spain, 
Anastatia Goold took it into her bead to build a family 
mansion, and being not over well provided with means, 
hit upon the expedient of supplying the workmen with 
food and other necessaries at her own 'price, while she, by 
purchasing largely, had a good profit on the transaction. 
It is said that her profits cleared the expense of the erec- 
tion, with the exception of an odd groat. This is perhaps 
the earliest account we have of the " truck system." 

QUEENSTOWN (Hotel: The Queen's), on the south side 
of Great Island, was originally called Cove, and received 
its present appellation from the visit of her Majesty in 
1849. The town, which is built on the face of a hill 
sloping down to the shore, bears with it the resemblance 
of a more southern clime, and, seen from the water, to 
which it presents its whole extent at one view, has a most 
charming aspect. It is much frequented by invalids, on 
account of the mildness and salubrity of the climate. The 
town contains a Catholic cathedral and a handsome Pro- 
testant church. Among the surrounding islands 

SPIKE ISLAND is most conspicuous, and the largest. 
It is a convict depot, with accommodation for 2000 men, 
who are employed in excavating, building, and various 
handicrafts. Admittance is gained by an order from the 
governor. Between this island and Hawlbowline the go- 
vernment are constructing a new dock and basin. 

ROCKY ISLAND contains the powder magazine, which 
occupies six chambers excavated in the solid rock. It 
usually contains about 10,000 barrels of gunpowder, be- 
sides other species of ammunition. An order from the 
commandant of the ordnance department is required for 
the magazine. 

HAWLBOWLINE is an island opposite the last. It 
contains the ordnance stores, an armoury, and a tank 
capable of holding 5000 tons of fresh water. No restric- 
tion is placed upon visitors to the island. 



THE HARBOUR OF CORK. 16S 

THE HAEBOUE OF CORK is one of the most exten- 
sive and commodious in tlie United Kingdom, being 
capable of affording shelter to the entire British navy. 
Into it Drake retreated when hotly pursued by thf- 
Spanish fleet. Crosshaven is the name of the creek into 
which he sailed, and where he was so effectually hidden, 
that the Spaniards were completely lost in conjecture as 
to his whereabouts, and actually spent days in fruitless 
search for him in the river, concluding that nothing short 
of magic could have taken him so suddenly out of their 
grasp. The spot is to this day known as " Drake's Pool." 
Every tourist who has sailed down the Cork river as far 
as the harbour, is enthusiastic in praise of the scenery. 
Arthur Young states, that " the country on the harbour 
he thought preferable, in many respects, to anything he 
had seen in Ireland." Another author states, that " no 
part of the scenery is barren or uninteresting ; a perpetual 
variety is presented along the whole course. The eye, 
whilst lingering over some happy picture, is continually 
attracted by some new succession possessing all the charms 
of the most romantic landscape." 

Sir John Forbes thinks *' it would be difficult to over- 
praise the beauty of the river from Cork to Queenstown, 
or the magnificent harbour or inland bay in which it ter- 
minates, more especially when these are seen under the 
influence of a bright sun and a brilliant sky. Indeed, 
every element of beauty that can mingle in such a scene 
seemed to be here comprised ; we had a stream ever vary- 
ing in its course and outline, of ample breadth, yet not too 
broad to prevent distinct recognition of the objects on its 
banks ; water of a colour and purity like the sea , lofty 
barriers on either side, covered with rich woods and inter- 
mingled with green park-like fields and shining villas ; 
here and there white villages on level patches of shore ; 
and the whole animated, and, as it were, humanized by 
the peopled steamers sweeping up and down, the boats and 
yachts sailing or pulling about, and a ship or t^^o at anchoi 



166 EXCURSIONS FROM CORK. 

(decked our in their national flags) in every bay that opened 
out upon us as we pursued our course." 

Dr. Scott of Queenstown writes that " the salubrity of the climate is such 
that it has been chosen as a residence by many invalids who would otherwise 
have sought the far-off scenes of Montpellier or Madeira, with their vehe- 
ment suns and less temperate vicissitudes of climate. An admirable equa- 
bility of climate, and an absence of sudden and violent interruptions, are 
the great characteristics which have so beneficially marked out this town 
to the ailing and debilitated, and established its reputation." 

It is interesting to note, that the Eev. Charles WoKe, 
author of the incomparable lines on the burial of Sir John 
Moore, beginning — 

" Not a drum was heard, not a funeral note," 

who died at Cove, of consumption, in 1823, lies interred 
on Great Island. At Roches Point, four miles south of 
Queenstown, the American mail steamers land and receive 
the letter bags. 

EXCURSIONS FROM CORK. 

To ROSTELLAN and CLOYNE (page 167). 

To BLARNEY (page 169). 

To YOUGHAL and the BLACKWATER (page 172). 

To Rostellan and Cloyne by steamer daily to Aghada. 

Rostellan Castle, formerly the princely seat of the 
O'Briens, Marquesses of Thomond, now the property of J. 
P. Wise, Esq. On the decease of the late Marquess in 
1855, all the family titles became extinct, with the excep- 
tion of the Irish Barony of Inchiquin, which descended to 
his kinsman Sir Lucius O'Brien, Bart., now Lord Inchiquin. 
The modern mansion, beautifully situated at the eastern 
end of the Cove of Cork, occupies the site of an ancient 
castle of the Fitzgerald s, who were for centuries seneschals 
of Imokilly. In the castle is an ancient sword said to 
have belonged to the great Brian Boroimhe, the ancestor 
of the O'Briens. The demesne, which is extensive and 



CLOYNE. 167 

well planted, contains an ancient cromlaec on the shore of 
Saleen creek. Visitors are freely admitted. Proceeding to 
Clojoie we pass the hamlet of Saleen and the property of 

Castle Mary, the seat of Mountiford Longfield, in the 
vicinity of which is another of those dmidical remains, 
known as cromlechs. " It is an immense mass of limestone 
of an oblong shape, one end resting on the ground, and the 
other extremity supported by two huge upright stones." 
The large stone is fifteen feet long by about eight in 
breadth, and three to four in thickness. " Adjoining this 
great altar is a smaller one of a triangular shape, and, like 
the other, it is supported by two uprights in an inclined 
position. It is supposed that this lesser stone might have 
been used for the purposes of common sacrifice, while the 
greater altar was reservejd for occasions of extraordinary 
solemnity.""^ The belief that these cromlechs were not 
altars but frame-works for the accumlation of cairns, has 
already been noticed. The writer we have just quoted 
states that " an ingenious conjecture has been advanced, 
that they were placed in an inclined position, to allow the 
blood of victims slain upon them to run off freely." Cer- 
tain it is that most if not all cromlechs already discovered 
have an inclined position, 

CLOYNE, a small but ancient town, is situated in the 
limestone valley of Imokilly, surrounded by sandstone 
hills, and about a mile from Castle Mary. Thus near a 
heathen altar a Christian church was erected in the sixth 
century by the pious St. Coleman, a disciple of St. Fionn 
Bar or Finbar. '^ The ancient name of the place," we are 
told, " was Cluaineuamhach, or the retreat of the caverns, 
the propriety of the designation being evident from the 
numerous caves which exist in the neighbourhood. One 
very remarkable cavern may be seen in a part of the 
Episcopal demesne, called the Eock Meadow." The por- 
tions of the cathedral remaining are the choir, 70 feet 
in length ; the nave, 120 feet in lergth ; and the north 
* J. S. Coyne. 



l68 EXCURSIONS FROM CORK. 

and sontli transepts, tile former of which had heen rebuilt 
by Bishop Agar, in 1776, in a style not at all in harmony 
with the ancient character of the original design* The 
building has been much repaired and altered, but contains 
much more of the ancient edifice than most other Irish 
cathedral churches can boast of possessing. On the death, 
in 1835, of the celebrated astronomer Brinkley, who was 
Bishop of Cloyne, the see was reunited, in accordance with 
the provisions of the Church Temporalities Act, to Cork 
and Ross, from which it had been separated in 1678. 

Bishop Berkeley, celebrated as an immaterialist, whose private charac- 
ter called from Pope the declaration that he possessed 

" Every virtue under heaven," 
but whose views also gave rise to Byron's satirical lines, 
" Bishop Berkeley says there is no matter, 
Which proves it is no matter what he says," 
held the see in the time of George II. He was born at Thomastown in 
1684, and attended the same school in Kilkenny as Swift. He afterwards 
obtained a fellowship in Trinity College, Dublin, became chaplain to the 
Earl of Peterborough on his embassy to Italy, and was appointed in 1724 
to the deanery of Derry. Bermuda was visited by him some time after, for 
the purpose of establishing a college for native teachers, an undertaking in 
which he lost a considerable part of the fortune which had been left to him 
by Esther Johnson, Swift's Stella. Berkeley was consecrated Bishop of 
Cloyne in 1734, and died very suddenly at Oxford in 1753. 

In the churchyard adjoining the cathedral are the ruins 
of a little building called " the Fire House." It is 
believed that until the beginning of the last century this 
building contained the remains of the founder. Near the 
church is a nearly complete round tower, originally ninety- 
two feet high. The summit being injured by lightning, an 
embattlement was added, raising it to a height of 102 feet. 
Dr. Smith gives the following account of the catastrophe : 

** On the night of the 10th of January a flash of lightning rent the coni- 
cal top, -tumbled down the bell and three lofts, forced its way through one 
side of the building, and drove the stones, which were admirably well 
joined and locked into each other, through the roof of an adjoining 
stable. " 

*^ An altar-tomb in the north transept, with the shattered remains of a 
mailed figure, belonged to the Fitzgeralds. The Fi]p& Roll of Cloyne is now 
in the Record Office, Dublin. 



169 



CORK TO BLARNEY. 
Distance, 5 miles. — Cars for 2s. 6d. or 3s. — Rail, 16 minntes. 

Tlie romantic scenery of the " Groves," and the Magic Stone of " Blarney," 
may be visited from Cork either by rail or by car. The latter arrange- 
ment is usually adopted, and the north bank of the river preferred, 
on account of the beauty of the country through which the road 
passes. A good \'iew is also obtained on the way of Carrigrohan 
Casile pir. M'Swiney), picturesquely situated on a steep limestone 
rock on the opposite bank. 




BLARNEY CASTLE was built in tlie 15tli century by 
Cormac M^Caithy, or by the Countess of Desmond. It 
consists now of the massive donjon tower about 120 feet 
in height, and another lower portion less substantial, though 
almost strong enough to warrant the conjecture that before 
the introduction of gunpowder it must have been impreg- 
nable. It is almost as marvellous as the power attributed to 
the Blarney Stone, that a few lines, containing in themselves 
no merit save their absurdity, should succeed in gaining a 
world-wide notoriety for a place which otherwise would 
scarcely have been celebrated beyond its own vicinity. 

The Blarney Stone had long been a bye-word among the 
Irish. Why, it is difficult to conjecture, unless the glib 



170 CORK TO BLARNEY. 

tongues of the natives of this locality were supposed to be 
not the ordinary gift of nature ; but it had not reached its 
full zenith of talismanic power until 1799, when Millikin 
wrote his well-known song of " The Groves of Blarney," 
not, as is sometimes asserted, to the same air as Moore 
adapted his " Last Eose of Summer," but to another old 
Irish air. A curious tradition attributes to it the power 
of endowing whoever kisses it with the sweet, persuasive, 
wheedling eloquence, so perceptible in the language of the 
Cork people, and which is generally termed ^^ Blarney P 
This is the true meaning of the word, and not, as some 
writers have supposed, a faculty of deviating from veracity 
with an unblushing countenance whenever it may be con- 
venient."^ It is asserted that the " real stone " which bore 
the inscription cormach mac carthy fortis mi fieri fecit, a.d. 
1446. now illegible, was only to be seen at the north angle, 
a distance of about twenty feet. It was clasped by two 
iron bars to a projecting buttress at the top of the castle, 
several feet below the level of the wall, so that to perform 
the kissing feat it was necessary to hold on by the bars, 
and project the body over the wall. The candidate for 
Blarney honours will be glad to know that another "real 
stone," bearing the date 1703, and clasped by two iron bars, 
has been placed within the tower, where it is quite accessible. 
The song which has achieved for itself and the "Groves" 
so high a reputation was written as a burlesque upon some 
of those wordy ditties with which ignorant pedantry used 
to astonish the village circles. From the version published 
in Mr. Crofton Croker's " Popular Songs of Ireland," we 
quote a sample of the song : — 

'* The groves of Blarney, " 'Tis there's the daisy, 

They look so charming, And the sweet carnation, 

Down by the purling The blooming pink, 

Of sweet silent streams, And the rose so fair, 

Being bank'd with posies The daffodowndilly, 

That spontaneous grow there, Likewise the lily. 

Planted in order All flowers that scent 

By tb<» sweet rock close. The sweet fragrant air." 

♦ J. S. Coyne. 



BLARNEY LAKE. 171 

The version published in tlie " Reliques of Father Prout *' 
contains the allusion to the " Stone." 

** There is a stone there, " A clever spouter 

That whoever kisses, He'll sure turn out, or 

Oh ! he never misses An out and outer. 

To grow eloquent. To be let alone ! 

*Tis he may clamber Don't hope to hinder him 

To a lady's chamber. Or to bewilder him. 

Or become a member Sure he's a pilgrim 

Of Parliament. From the Blarney Stone." 

The pleasure-grounds surrounding the castle, which were 
formerly adorned with statues, grottoes, alcoves, bridges^ 
and every description of rustic ornament, are still very 
beautiful, although since the time when 

** The muses shed a tear, 

When the cruel auctioneer, 
With his hammer in his hand, to sweet Blarney came," * 

then: beauty has been gradually diminishing ; the fine old 
trees have been felled, and the statues of 

" The heathen gods, And Nicodemus, 

And nymphs so fair, All standing naked 

Bold Neptune, Plutarch, In the open air," f 

have vanished. The 



- gravel walks there 



For speculation 
And conversation " 

are, however, in good order. In 1825, Sir Walter Scott, 
Mr. Lockhart, and Miss Edgeworth, visited the castle. 

Blarney Lake is a sweet piece of water, about a quarter 
of a mile from the castle. A tradition remains that at 
certain seasons a herd of white cows rises from the bosom 
of the lake to graze among the rich pasture which clothes 
its banks. Another story is, that the Earl of Clancarty, 
who forfeited the castle at the Revolution, cast all his plate 
into a certain part ; that " three of the McCarthys inherit 
tlie secret of the place where they are deposited, any one 

* Father Prout. t Millikin's Groves of Blarney. 



172 CORK TO YOUGHAL. 

of whom dying communicates it to another of the family, 
and thus perpetuates the secret, which is never to be 
revealed until a McCarthy be again Lord of Blarney." 

On the river Coman, within the pleasure-grounds, is a 
very fine cromlech, and a number of pillar-stones inscribed 
with ancient Ogham characters. St. Anne's Hill, a pleasant 
little watering-place, is about a mile west of Blarney. 

CORK TO YOUGHAL AND THE BLACKWATER. 

The tourist may visit the chief points on this line in one 
day, thus — An early train takes him from Cork to Youghal 
in an hour and a quarter. The steamer proceeds up the 
river to Cappoquin, occupying about an hour and a half on 
the passage. If he choose to go to Lismore, he should stop 
short at Camphire, from which a public car conveys him 
to the town in haK an hour. Thence he may drive to 
Cappoquin, and he will have the whole river trip on his 
return. Should he elect to visit Melleray Abbey, he should 
go on by steamer direct to Cappoquin. As the boat gene- 
rally makes two trips per day, he will be able to inspect 
Youghal either before or after his river journey, but in- 
quiry as to sailings should be made beforehand. 

YOUGHAL (Hotel: Devonshire Anns), 28 miles from Cork, is easilj 
reached by train. The rail from Cork to Middleton commands fine views ol 
the river Lee, but the remainder of the journey is rather uninteresting, ex^ 
cepting that portion through the small town and fine demesne of Castle- 
martyr, the seat of the Earl of Shannon. Youghal lies to the eastern 
extreniity of the county on the bay of the same name, at the mouth of the 
picturesque river Blackwater. Here a Franciscan abbey was founded in 
1224 by Maurice Fitzgerald. Archdall relates the tradition, that it was the 
onginal intention of the founder to build a castle, and that the men en- 
gaged in the work requested money to drink the health of their employer, 
who desired his son to give it them. Instead of doing so, he loaded them 
with abuse, which so provoked Maurice, that, to punish the pride of his 
son, he had the structure converted into a monastery. The nave and aisl'^.s 
of the church are still used as a place of worship, the greater part having 
been lately restored from a state of niin. A monument to the first, usually 
styled the great Earl of Cork, is in the south transept ; he is represented in 
u recumbent position, his two wives kneeling, one on each side of him, and 
flgui'es of his nine children underneath. The church contains many ot^o' 



THE BLACK WATER. 173 

interesting tombs, iucliiding those of the Boyles and Fitzgeralds. Yoiighal 
was the head-quarters of Oliver Cromwell whilst in the south of Ireland, 
and here he embarked for England after his campaign. During the rebel- 
lion of the Earl of Desmond, Sir Walter Raleigh sailed to Ireland as cap- 
tain of a few troops sent over to assist the Lord-Deputy. For his skill and 
bravery, he was rewarded with a grant of land in the counties Cork and 
Waterford, which, in 1602, he sold to Boyle, afterwards Earl of Cork, who 
had received him with much hospitality, and afforded him generous assist- 
ance on his return from Virginia. It was on this occasion that Sir Walter 
introduced to this country the potato root, which was first cultivated in 
this neighbourhood. Sir Walter Raleigh's house still stands in the town, 
near the church, very much in its primitive condition. It is a plain Eliza- 
bethan structure, and now called Myrtle Grove, from the fine specimens of 
that shrub which grow in the garden. Youghal is connected with the 
county Waterford by a long narrow wooden bridge, 1787 feet in length. 



THE BLACKWATER. 

The month of this river, one of the largest in Ireland, 
forms the harbonr of Yonghal, wliich, thongh a fine and 
well-sheltered bay, is rendered inaccessible to very large 
vessels by a bar. A ferry opposite the town crosses to 
Ardmore, four miles distant, a favourite w^atering-place, 
and remarkable for the ruins of an ancient abbey, and a 
round tower in almost perfect preservation. The trip up 
the river is made in a light steamer specially built for 
the navigation, and running during the season in con- 
nection with the railway. Starting from Youghal quay, 
it passes under the wooden bridge, where it enters the 
river proper, as distinguished from the bay of Youghal. 
Immediately the hills rise at either side to a considerable 
height, on one hand thickly clothed w^th firs, on the other 
green, and dotted with cottages and tilled patches. The 
first object of especial interest is an island about a mile up 
the river, from amidst the rich verdure of which rise two 
ruins in close contiguity. The square keep is the remnant 
of Temple IVIichael, a castle built by the Templars ; the 
ecclesiastical remains formed part of the abbey of Saint 
Molanfide, founded in 501. A statue of the founder is 
placed upon a pedestal in the cloister, but it is of compara- 



174 THE BLACKWATER. 

lively modern erection. Tbe body of Eaymond le Gros, a 
comrade of Strongbow, is said to be buried in the abbey. 
Passing by the angle of the river in which the fine man- 
sion of Ballinatray is situated, a scene of great beauty un- 
folds itself. The river, flowing between a noble lawn on 
one bank and rich woods on the other, widens out into a 
lake, while the view forward reaches over miles of a cul- 
tivated slope, terminating m a lofty heather-covered peak. 
From this spot the river mnds through a succession of 
beauties. The ruins of old Strancally Castle are almost 
confounded with the rough, moss-grown rock, on which 
they stand directly over the river. The water here is said 
to be of im.mense depth, and accessible by a subterraneous 
passage from the castle, known as the Murdering hole, as 
here, it was said, some cruel Desmond, of days long gone 
by, used to dispose of the bodies of his victims. All the 
statements, however, must be received with no larger per 
centage of credulity than is usually accorded to the legends 
of castles long in ruins. 

New Strancally Castle stands a short distance from its 
predecessor. It is an immense mass of towers and cur* 
tains, and battlements and bartizans, according to the rule 
of modern Gothic. It is buried in most lovely woods, 
through which its architectural features are seen to very 
great advantage. Just beyond a smaller river, called the 
Bride, falls into the Blackwater. About that point a bend 
in the main stream reveals the Knock-me-le-down moun- 
tains, whose black and frowning outlines contrast with the 
fertile country around. Dromana Castle, the seat of Lord 
Stuart de Decie-s, a couple of miles farther on, is not in it- 
self striking, but is charmingly situated. It overlooks the 
river from an eminence of about 60 or 70 feet, and seems 
barely to peep through the magnificent woods which fold 
it round, and clothe the whole river side with beauty. 
Just beneath a sweet little tributary, called the Finisk, 
loses itself in the Blackwater. From the grounds of the 
mstJe, which are freely thrown open tc visitors, an artinti- 



THE BLACKWATER. 175 

cally conceived opening in the trees carries tlie view up 
towards the mountains, or down over the broad surface of 
the river. A small islet in front, covered with willows 
and drooping ashes, forms a pretty foreground to the pic- 
ture of Dromana. This castle was the birth-place of that 
wonder of vitality, the Countess of Desmond, whose death 
was occasioned by a fall from a cherry tree at the age of 
a hundred and forty. 

Higher up on the left bank are the ancient castle of 
Tourin and the modern structure of the same name ; the 
latter the seat of Sir Eichard Musgrave, by whose father^ 
the late proprietor, the capabilities of the Blackwater as a 
navigable river were first tested. 

On again through a succession of interesting views and 
we come to the end of the steamer's journey, and, pro- 
bably, the loveliest portion of the whole river. Within a 
couple of miles of the town of Cappoquin, one of those 
sudden turns which are constantly acting like theatrical 
surprises reveals a scene as remarkable by its variety as 
by its beauty. Before the spectator, and stretching far 
away to the left, is a long hillside intersected with deep 
woody glens, and rich with plantations, which, far as the 
eye can carry, clothe its surface. Above the long level 
ridge rises Mount Melleray, distinguished by the convent of 
La Trappe, and towering over all the mountains, whose 
close proximity gives them an appearance of mass and 
grandeur to which their real dimensions would scarcely 
entitle them. To the right, and nestled at the base of the 
hni, Cappoquin has an imposing effect, which a closer inspec- 
tion will hardly sustain : it has, however, a snug little inn. 

Mount Melleray Abbey is about three miles' drive from 
Cappoquin. It is chiefly remarkable from the fact that it 
is inhabited by a community of monks, the severity of 
whose rule is almost unequalled in the Eoman Catholic 
Church. They live exclusively upon vegetable diet, use 
no stimulating drink, nor even tea, indulge in but five to 
«iix hours' sleep, labour incessantly, and maintain perpetual 



176 THE BLACKWATER. 

silence. The last rule is relaxed in favour of a few mem- 
bers for essential purposes, such as teaching in the schools, 
transaction of necessary business, and reception of visitors, 
who are very numerous. The ground upon which the 
abbey is situated was a tract of unreclaimed mountain 
granted to the community by the late Sir Richard Keane, 
of Cappoquin. It has been brought into cultivation by the 
labour of their hands, while all around it may still be seen 
the primeval heath. The community is noAv composed 
chiefly of natives of Ireland, but was originally formed by 
some French Cistercian monks driven from France by the 
Revolution of 1830. 

From Cappoquin to Lismore is rather less than four 
miles. Unfortunately there is neither swivel nor portcullis 
in the fine five-arch bridge which spans the river imme- 
diately above Cappoquin, otherwise the steamer might 
perform the further portion of the journey. The drive, 
however, is very agreeable at either side of the river, by 
the northern bank especially. Lismore is a considerable 
town, and better built than most Irish towns of the same 
size. It has a cathedral church of considerable age. Its 
chief attraction is the castle of the Duke of Devonshire, 
remarkable by its size, the beauty of its architecture, its 
romantic situation, and the fact that it occupies the site of 
the ancient University of Lismore. Of the University 
building not a vestige remains, and its relics are few ; 
though Irish historical records insist that it was once of 
European importance, and in its palmy days four thousand 
students, amongst whom is counted no less a personage 
than Alfred the Great, are said to have received instruction 
there. The Booh of Lhmore and the crozier of the bishops 
are the principal relics, the latter is exhibited along with 
other curiosities. 

The present building is a stately pile standing upon an 
eminence that springs almost sheer out of the water, but 
whose abruptness is veiled by the trees that seem to grow 
from the river itself. Looking. from the bridge near its 



THE BLACKWATER. 177 

foot, the castle presents a specimen of tlie best type of 
feudal Gothic. Its two facades are happy examples of 
that harmonious irregularity which forms the charm of the 
style. The main building is of great antiquity, but much 
of it has been restored, and large additions have been made 
under the superintendence of Sir Joseph Paxton. At the 
eastern angle of the river face, the tower of King James 
rises, and to the rear, towards the town, that which is 
called King John's. The former derives its name from 
having been the resting-place of James the Second during 
the war of the Eevolution ; the latter, as the scene of the 
first British Parliament held in Ireland under the presi- 
./lency of King John. The river front is flanked at the 
western angle by a huge tower already overtopping the 
whole building, thougli it is far from completion, the 
works having been stopped since the death of the late 
duke. It is called the Carlisle tower, after the late Lord- 
Lieutenant of Ireland, by whom the foundation-stone was 
laid. It was but a part of the extensive additions contem- 
plated by the late Duke of Devonshire, which, had tliev 
been completed, would have entitled Lismore Castle ta 
rank amongst the very first residences in Great Britain. 

Admission is free to visitors to inspect the interior. The 
chief objects of interest are the fine court-yards, the ball- 
room, not unlike the great hall of Hampton Court, but 
inferior in size, and the drawing-room. From the windows 
of the last there are views of ahnost incomparable loveli- 
ness. For those who prefer expanse to mere beauty the 
turret of King Jamei^'s Tower ofl'ers an immense range of 
view. 

The beauties of the Blackwater by no means terminate at 
Lismore, and if the tourist have leisure he will be rewarded 
by a trip to Fermoy ; the road and the railway follow 
its banks all the way. From Fermoy he can proceed by 
rail to Mallow, and thence either return to Cork or proceed 
to Killarney, page 178. The river drive between these 
latter points has been neglected since the establishment of 

N 



178 FERMOY. 

railway communication, but that, too, is a very agreeable 
trip, and, amongst other points of interest, embraces the 
ruins of Kilcoleman Castle, the residence of the poet 
Spenser, which was burned by the insurgents during the 
rebellion of Tyrone in 1597. 

FERMOY 

Hotel.— Q,ueen*s Arms. Mail cars to Mallow and to Mitchellstown. 
is an important military station, with extensive bar- 
racks for both infantry and cavalry. The town, which 
consists of some good streets, owes much of its prosperity 
to the enterprise of the late Mr. Anderson, the mail coach 
and barrack contractor. Besides dissenting meeting houses, 
there is a handsome Catholic cathedi-al and a good Epis- 
copal church. There is also the court house, the college, 
and other less important buildings. The situation of the 
town, on the river Blackwater, here crossed by a fine 
stone cut bridge, is very pleasing, and the numerous villas 
in the vicinity add to its attractiveness. Its population 
amounts to 7000. 



179 



KILLARNEY. 



There are three ways of visiting Killarney — 

1st, Route direct from DulDlin by rail, see p. 108. 

2d, „ from Cork by rail to Bandon and Dunmanway, thence by 

coach via GlengarifF, see p. 205. 
3d, „ from Cork by railway to Macroom, thence by coach via 

Inchigeelagh and Glengariff, see p. 209. 

For those to whom scenery is a consideration the routes by Glengariff are 
recommended, particularly that via Macroom. 

Hotels. — Railway — Royal Victoria — Lake — Palace — and Innisfallen. — 
Tariffs of charges may be had on application, and the landlords will be 
glad to assist in making up parties for visiting the Lakes. 



SKELETON EXCURSION. 
KILLA.RNEY to Gap of Dunloe, and the Three Lakes. 



Killarney town. 

Ruins of Aghadoe 
Aghadoe Church - - - 
Aghadoe House - - . 
Killalee Church, in rains 
Beaufort House - - - 
Dunloe Castle . - - 
Enter Gap of Dunloe 
Co-Saun Lough . . - 
Cushvalley Lough - 
Augur Haugh and Pike Rock 



Miles. 



6J 
7i 
Si 
9 

lOi 

11 



Cars stop here. Continue on foot 
or pony. 



Black Lough - - - - 11 J 

Gap Cottage - - - - 12" 

Derrycunihy Waterfall - - 13 
View of the Black Valley. 

Lord Brandon's Cottage - 15 



Proceed thence hy toat. M 
Enter Upper Lake - - . 

McCarthy's Island. 

Eagle Island. 

Arbutus Island. 

Newfoundland Bay. 
Enter Long Range 

Man-of-war Rock. 

Eagle's Nest. 
Enter Middle Lake by Old 
Weir Bridge - - - 

Dinish Island. 

Brickeen Island. 
Enter Lower Lake by Brickeen 

Bridge - - _ _ 
Glena Bay and Wood - 
Innisfallen - - - - 

Ruined Abbey. 
Ross Island - - - . 

Castle in ruins. 
Land at Muckross - - - 
Muckross Abbey - - - 
Flesk Castle (to right) - 
KiUam-ey - - . . 



iles 
15^ 



17 



19 



IPi 

20 

25 



180 MUCKROSS, OR CLOGHEREEX. 

Killarney is certainly not the cleanest town in the world 
and it has the misfortune to be filled with beggars, touters, 
guides, and other annoyances. It consists of one principal 
street, with numerous offshoots. The population numbers 
about 5000, including the beggars, etc., but not the paupers 
in the workhouse, who number about 400. In position, 
it is about one mile and a half from the north-east margin 
of Lough Leane, or the Lower Lake. In the principal 
street are situated some of the hotels, the parish church, a 
mean edifice, the market, and a reading-room, open to 
strangers. A place of worship for Methodists is in the 
town ; also a nunnery, with a school attached, where 400 
girls are educated. Lord Kenmare, besides providing 
clothing for thirty of the girls, annually contributes a sum 
of £100 for the maintenance of tlie school. A dispensary, 
a fever-hospital, and alms-house, swell the number of the 
town charities. The Roman Catholic cathedral to the 
north of the town is a magnificent building, designed by 
Pugin, celebrated for his imitations of mediaeval art, and 
completed but recently. The hotels are all good and well 
regulated, and can supply cars, ponies, and boats. *' In an 
eTening ramble through the town," observes Mr. Croker, 
" the first thing that will strike a stranger is the number of 
idle people lounging about the streets, or standing with 
their backs against the door-posts of the houses." This 
remark is still true to a great extent, and perhaps is some- 
what due to an indiscriminate benevolence on the part of 
unaophisticated tourists. 

CLOGHEREEN {Hotels: The Muckross (Ross's) ; 
O'Sullivan's). This village, the property of Captain H. A. 
Herbert, M.P. for Kerry, and one of the largest proprietors in 
the south of Ireland, is two miles south of Killarney, within 
a few minutes' walk of the ruined abbey, whose name it 
now bears, and two miles north of the celebrated cascade 
'>f Tore. Its position is half a mile from the south-east 
comer of the Lower Lake. The principal buildings in the 
village are two hotels, the post office, and a school-house. 
Many visitors prefer this village to the town of Killarney. 



18J 



KILLARNE/ TO GAP OF DUNLOE, LAKES, ETC. 

Leaving tlie streets of Killarnej, we proceed in a norths* 
western direction, passing the spacious Union Workhouse 
and palace-like County Lunatic Asylum on our right, 
and the beautiful Eoman Catholic cathedral on our left 
We get now and then a peep of the larger of the lakes, 
and two and a quarter miles from the town pass on our 
right the venerable ruins of Aghadoe, perched on a piece 
of rising ground, and overlooking that immense valley in 
whose bosom rests the majestic Lough Leane. This is one 
of the most delightfully situated assemblages of ruins in 
the kingdom. 

The Castle is but a fragment of a tower about 30 feet 
in height. Of its foundation or occupation no records are 
extant, but the titles given by tradition, " the Bishop's 
chair," and " the pulpit," would seem to indicate that it 
had been originally the residence of the bishop of the 
diocese. 

The Church, writes Windele, " is a low oblong building, 
consisting of two distinct chapels, of unequal antiquity, 
lying east and west of each other ; that to the east is in 
the pointed style, date 1158, and dedicated to the Holy 
Trinity; the other, or western chapel, is of an earlier 
period, between the sixth and tweKth centuries, in the 
Romanesque style, and was under the patronage of St. 
Finian. These are separated by a solid wall, through 
which had once been a communication, but closed up long 
before the destruction of the building. The whole of the 
church is about eighty feet in length, by twenty in 
breadth." 

The Round Tower is in no better condition than the 
castle. Its present height is about fifteen feet. "Its 
masonry is greatly superior to that of the church. The 
stones are large, regular, and well dressed. The greater 
part of the facing stone of the north side has been unfortn- 
nately taken away for the erection of tombs in the adjacent 



182 KILLARNEY TO GAP OF DUNLOE. 

burying-grpund. Within and without, the spoliator haa 
been effectually at work, aided by those worst pests, the 
gold-seekers — fellows, whose unhallowed dreams are most 
fatal to our antiquities." Continuing the drive for another 
mile, we take a sharp turn to the left, before which, how- 
ever, we pass Aghadoe House, the pleasant mansion of the 
Dowager Lady Headley. After a quarter of a mile's drive 
in a south-eastern direction, we take another sharp turn 
to the right, and for two miles and a half continue due 
west. To our left, on the lake side, is Lake View House, 
the residence of James O'Connell, Esq., brother to the late 
agitator. On the same side appears Killalee House, and on 
the right the ruins of the church of the same name. 
Nearly six and a haK miles from Killamey we have on our 
left the beautiful demesne of Beaufort House, having first 
crossed the river Laune, which conveys the surplus water 
from the Upper Lake. 

Dunloe Castle, on the left, the seat of Daniel Mahony, 
Esq., was originally one of the residences of the powerful 
O'Sullivan Mor. 

The Gave of Dunloe, situated in a field close by the high 
road, and about two miles' distance from the entrance to 
the Gap, will tempt the antiquarian tourist. It was dis- 
covered in 1838 by some labourers who were making a 
ditch, when they broke into a hollow under the 'earth. 

" The Cave of Dunloe must be regarded as an ancient 
Irish library, lately disinterred, and restored to light. 
The books are the large impost stones which form the 
roof. Their angles contain the writing. A library of 
such literature was never heard of in England before, and 
scarcely in Ireland ; and yet it is of the highest antiquity.""^ 

We may here just mention the Ogham character, as that 
supposed to have been used by the Druids before the in- 
trocluction of Christianity into Ireland. It consists of six- 
teen letters represented by four arrangements of strokes, 
either upon a line, or, as is more generally the case, upon 

♦ Hall's Hibemia Illustrata, 



THE GAP OF DUNLOE. 183 

the sharp edge of a stone. We copy the alphabet in this 
character as given by a celebrated Irish scholar, O'Halloran, 

^ , II 111 nil iiiiiMnmiii ////// 

III 111 iiii iiiii iiiiiiiiiiiiiii ////// 

hi/ 8 n d t e a o u e i m g r 

The Ogham alphabet now contains twenty-five charac- 
ters, representing letters or combinations of letters. The 
Beth'Lm's-JVom, or Irish alphabet, contains but eighteen 
letters, fashioned differently from the Eoman characters, 
and each symbolically representing a tree or plant. Thns 
the letter D, Biur, is the name for the oak ; 0, Oun, is the 
broom ; U, Ur, is the heath, and I, IdoUio, is the yew tree. 
The cottage said to have been inhabited by the celebrated 
beauty Kate Kearney stands invitingly at the entrance to 
the Gap. It is now inhabited by the reputed grand- 
daughter of the heroine, who conveniently bears the sams 
name, although not the same charms, as her prototype. 
Goats' milk, seasoned with a little potheen, will in all like- 
lihood be offered here, and a gratuity received in return, 

THE GAP OF DUNLOE is one of those notable places 
about which there exists so much diversity of opinion. It 
is a wild and narrow mountain pass, between the range of 
hills known as Macgillicuddy's Eeeks, and the Purple 
Mountain, which is a shoulder of the Tomies. The entire 
length of the defile is about four miles. The principal 
feature of the pass is the height of the rocks which bound 
it, compared with the narrow track of road, and the insig- 
nificant streamlet which courses through it. " On either 
hand," writes Sterling Coyne, " the craggy cliffs, composed 
of huge masses of projecting rocks, suspend fearfully over 
the narrow pathway, and at every step threaten with 
destruction the adventurous explorer of this desolate scene. 
In the interstices of these immense fragments a few shruba 
and trees shoot out in fantastic shapes, which, with the 
dark ivy and luxuriant heather, contribute to the pictn- 



184 THE GAP OF DUNLOE. 

resque effect of the landscape. A small but rapid stream 
called the Loe traverses the whole length of the glen, ex- 
panding itseK at different points into five small lakes, each 
having its proper name, but which are known in the 
aggregate as the Cummeen Thomeen Lakes. The road, 
which is a mere pony track, constructed on the frequent 
brink of precipices, follows the course of the stream, and in 
two places crosses it by means of bridges. One of these 
stands at the head of a beautiful rapid, where the water 
rushes in whitening foam over the rocky bed of the tor- 
rent. The part of the glen which attracts most admiration 
is that where the valley becomes so contracted as scarcely 
to leave room between the precipitous sides for the scanty 
pathway and its accompanying strand. The peasantry 
have given to this romantic pass the name of ' the Pike.' " 
Mr. Inglis writes in a different strain. " The Gap of Dun- 
loe," says he, " did not seem to me worthy of its reputa- 
tion. It is merely a deep valley, but the rocks which 
flank the valley are neither lofty nor very remarkable in 
their form ; and although, therefore, the Gap presents many 
features of the picturesque, its approaches to sublimity are 
very distant. I was more struck by the view after passing 
the Gap, up what is called the Dark Valley, a wide and 
desolate hollow, surmounted by the finest peaks of this 
mountain range." The road for a little way up the Gap 
keeps to the right of the stream, passing the lowest of the 
tarns, sometimes called Cosaun Lough, which is about nine 
miles from Killamey. Quarter of a mile further on, it 
crosses the stream below the second, or Black Lough^ and 
keeps to the left of Cushvally Lough, and Auger Lough. 
The Pike Eock is situated at the upper end of the latter, 
being about eleven miles from our starting point. 

Cars are rarely taken beyond this point, from whence 
the tourist may either walk or ride the four miles to 
Lord Brandon's cottage, where he embarks. It would 

* Here St. Patrick is said to have banished the last Irish snake. 



THE BLACK VALLEY. 186 

be well even to send back the car at the first lake, as 
the road is very trying for the horse. Touters fre- 
quent this valley with cannon, which they discharge 
in order to awake the magnificent echo, which passes 
from hill to hill. 

Emerging from the Gap at its upper end, we come 
within sight of 

THE BLACK YALLEY, Coom-a-Dhuv,^ which stretches 
away to our right, and seems lost in its own profundity. 
The darkness of the valley is not caused by any excess of 
vegetation, what exists being, on the contrary, very stunted, 
and sparingly scattered. The effect is produced by the 
height of the hiUs surrounding the vale, and the immense 
quantity of dissolved peaty matter in the water. We are 
inclined to concur with Mr. Inglis, when he describes this 
vale as more striking than that which we have just left, 
for few could look into its wild recess without a feeling of 
awe akin to horror. Mr. Windele thus describes the 
valley : — " On our right lies the deep, broad, desolate glen 
of Coom Dhuv, an amphitheatre buried at the base, and 
hemmed in by vast masses of mountain, whose rugged 
sides are marked by the course of descending streams. At 
the western extremity of the valley gloomily reposes, amid 
silence and shadows, one of the lakes, or rather circular 
basins of dark still water, Loch-an-bric-dearg , ' the lake of 
the char or red trout.' Other lesser lakes dot the surface 
of the moor, and uniting, form at the side opposite the ter- 
mination of the Gap a waterfall of considerable height, 
enjoying the advantage, not common to other falls in Ire- 
land, of being plentifully supplied with water at every 
season of the year." When we catch the first view of the 
valley on a hot, hazy day, the effect is truly magical, re- 

* Unfortunately there seems to be no rule among writers for the spell- 
ing of Irish words. Cuw^meenduff, Commenduff, Com-a-Dhuv, Coom-Duv, and 
Coom-DhuvTiy are among the different versions given of the Irish name of the 
Dark Valley. We prefer Coom-a-Dhuv, because it comes nearest the pro- 
nunciation of the natives. 



186 THE LAKES OF KILLARNEY. 

minding ns of some of the dioramic representations of the 
blasted heath in Macbeth. The whole valley is a black 
scarcely defined prison, and the water throws back the 
light which it receives by reflection from the clouds, giving 
the idea of being lighted from below. " Had there been 
at the bottom," writes Kohl, " among the rugged masses of 
black rock, some smoke and flame instead of water, we 
might have imagined we were looking into the entrance to 
the infernal regions." 

A nigged footpath, to the left, leads to Lord Brandon's 
cottage. 

THE LAKES OF KILLAENEY. 

From the over-sti-ained laudation, and the multitude of 
paintings and engravings that have been produced of these 
justly celebrated lakes, the tourist is apt to form too high 
an estimate of their beauty. There can be no doubt, how- 
ever, that the rocks that bound the shores of Muckross and 
the Lower Lake, with their harmonious tints and luxuriant 
decoration of foliage, stand unrivalled, both in form and 
colouring ; and the character of the mountains is as grand 
and varied as the lakes in which they reflect their rugged 
summits. Of less extent and without so much of that 
sublimity that distinguishes the lochs of Scotland, the 
Lakes of Killarney possess some remarkable features, 
among which may be noted the dense woods that surround 
them, the elegant and imposing contours of the mountains, 
the numerous islands and luxuriant vegetation, especially 
of the arbutus, whose fresh green tints contrast so well 
with the grey rocks among which it grows. 

Derrycunihy Waterfall occurs on a stream which, near 
Gal way bridge, flows into the upper lake. The name is 
derived from a remarkable personage who leapt over the 
stream, and left his footmarks printed in a stone. These 
marked stones are common all over Ireland, and have 
had various origins ascribed to them. Spencer con- 
cluded that they were a sort of sign-manual of the chiefs, 



188 THE LAKES OF KILLARNEY. 

who, standing on the stone, " received an oath to preserve 
all the ancient customs of the country inviolable." The 
vale of Coom-a-dhuv is but the upper end of a large val- 
ley, stretching from under the lofty Carrantuohill (3414 
feet), the loftiest mountain in Ireland, in a western direc- 
tion, until, under Mangerton (2756)andCromaglan (1226), 
it widens out into the Upper Lake. 

Lord Brando7i^s Cottage is situated close to the Upper 
Lake. From this the tourist may conveniently ascend the 
Purple Mountain, from which is obtained a most expan- 
sive view, extending over the Upper and Middle Lakes, 
and surrounding mountains, including the Keeks and 
Glengariff, with the Black Valley, Lough Guitaua, Dingle 
Bay and mountains, the mouth of the Shannon, and Ken- 
mare and Bantry Bays, besides a beautiful expanse of open 
sea. The descent may be made into the Gap of Dunloe. 

THE UPPER LAKE, the length of which is only two 
and a half miles, and breadth three quarters, covers an 
area of 430 acres, being little more than a twelfth of that 
of the Lowxr Lake. It contains twelve islands, occupying 
in all an area of about six acres, none of them being much 
above an acre in extent, and several not even a rood. 

McCarthy's Island is one of the first we encounter on 
entering the lake. It is difl&cult to trace the origin of the 
name of this, or indeed any other spot in the vicinage of 
the lakes with certainty, so active have been the imagina- 
tions of guides and boatmen in coining origins and inci- 
dents to suit the wants of tourists. It is a historical fact 
that the coimty Kerry at one period was chiefly owned by 
the two powerful chiefs, O'Sullivan and McCarthy, though 
it is long since the power of both has dwindled into insig- 
nificance. It is believed that one of the last McCarthys 
either dwelt or took refuge on the island. 

Arbutus Island is one of the largest on the lake, being 
twenty-five perches by eleven. In area it is inferior to 
another called Eagle Island, being one acre and twenty-six 



THE UPPER LAKE. 189 

perches, while the latter is one acre and thirty perches. 
There can be no doubt of the origin of this island's title, 
seeing that it is completely covered with the beautiful 
plant whose name it bears. The islands in the lakes of 
Cumberland are either grassy holms, with sometimes a 
piece of yellow whin to catch the eye, or perhaps a solitary 
tree or shrub, or, if larger, such as St. Herbert's and Lord's 
Isle on Derwentwater, bearing shady groves of ash and 
plane, mixed with every other variety of English forest 
trees. The islands on the Killamey lakes have a totally 
different aspect, produced entirely by the presence of the 
Arbutus {Arhitus unedo). Even in winter the leaves are 
of a rich glossy green, and so clustered at the terminations 
of the branches, that the waxen flesh-like flowers, which 
hang in graceful racemes, or the rich crimson strawberry- 
like fruit, seem cradled in a nest of verdure. The arbutus 
is never lofty enough to entitle it to the rank of a tree ; 
and its bare trunk and unclothed branches require the 
covering of the thicket of unrestricted vegetation. All 
islands in the lakes have a share of this " Myrtle of Kil- 
lamey," and the road-sides in the vicinity are plentifully 
adorned with it. 

Though small in proportion, the Upper Lake is generally 
admitted to be the finest of the three, not as a simple 
sheet of water, in which the lower far surpasses it, but on 
account of the wild rocky shores which hem it in on every 
side. Although we cannot agree wdth Mr. Coyne that this 
lake possesses " every variety of landscape that can de- 
light the eye or gratify the imagiuation," still in the main 
we are inclined to agree with him in his account of the 
spot. " The wild grandeur," he writes, " of the Upper 
Lake strikes the observer on first beholding it with feel- 
ings of awe and admiration. Perfectly distinct in the 
character of its romantic scenery from that of the Tore and 
Lower Lake, it combines many of the softer beauties of 
wood and water, with all the stern reality of mountain 
scenery — possessing in a surpassing degree every variety 



190 THE LAKES OF KILLARNEY. 

of landscape that can delight the eye or gratify the imagi- 
nation. Embosomed amidst majestic mountains whose 
fantastical summits seem to pierce the sky, the lake appears 
to be completely landlocked. On the south lie the Derry- 
cunihy mountain ranges, and on the left the lofty Reeks 

' Lift to the clouds their craggy heads on high, 
Clowned with tiaras fashioned in the sky, 
In vesture clad of soft ethereal hue, 
The purple mountains rise to distant view, 
With Dunloe's Gap.' " 

Weld writes of this lake — " The Upper Lake displays 
much greater variety than the others, but that variety 
arises from different combinations of the same wild and 
uncultivated features. In picturesque scenery, indeed, it 
far surpasses all the other lakes." He very justly adds, 
that " It is only by a patient examination of its shores, 
and particularly of the deep inlets along it, that its full 
beauties can be discovered." 

Towards the eastern end the lake becomes attenuated 
into a narrow strip of water rather more than half a mile 
long, called Newfoundland Bay, and to the north of it 
passes the Long Range, a river little more than two miles 
in length, connecting the Upper with the Middle Lake. 
Every little rock or islet has its peculiar name or legend, 
which the boatmen are eager to recite for the edification 
of the tourist. On entering the Long Range, we pass Col- 
man's Eye, the Man-of-War — a mass of rock resembling, 
though remotely, the hulk of a vessel- — and the Four 
Friends, a series of little isles. 

The Eagle's Nest rears its pyramidal head about 700 
feet above the river ; it is 1100 feet above the sea. It 
is a rugged, precipitous mass of rock, in whose interstices 
the lordly eagle builds its eyry. The base is tolerably 
covered with trees, shrubs, and underwood, but towards 
the upper part it is bare, excepting where a few stunted 
trees or heath, and other lowly sub-alpine plants, find 
nourishment amonp^ the crevices. 



THE UPPER LAKE. 



191 



The young birds are carried oflf every year between tbe 15th of June and 
the 1st of July, when they are old enough to be brought up by the hand. 
The rocks on which the nests are built are usually so steep and dangerous, 
that they can only be reached by ropes from above. 

The echo from this and the surrounding rocks is re- 
markable, and when judiciously awakened, we hear the 
call repeated nearly a dozen times, and answered from 
mountain to mountain, sometimes loud and without in- 
terval, and then fainter and fainter, and after a sudden 
pause again arising as if from some distant glen, then in- 
sensibly dying away. 

Eagle's Nest Echo. — Mr. Croker's. 



1. Original Air. 



2. Echo. 



3. Echo fainter. 



4. Imperfect, 



5. Bothered. 




7. Repeat irrfper- 
feet. 



Passing objects of minor interest, we at length gain the 
fairy scene known as the " Meeting of Waters," where the 
Long Kange, calling, as it were, at the corner of the Middle 
Lake, skirts round the east of Dinish Island, which ia 
bounded west by the Middle, and north by the Lower Lake. 



192 THE LAKES OF KILLARNEY. 

Old Weir Bridge is an antiquated structure, consisting 
of two arches, through which the water rushes with un- 
controllable force. The boatmen, who are generally very 
skilful rowers, do nothing but guide the boat, and it dashes 
through, under one of the arches, into 

MUCKEOSS, TOEC, OE MIDDLE LAKE. This lake 
contains an area of 680 acres. The principal islands are 
Dinish and Brickeen, which separate it from the Lower 
and larger lake. There are three passages between these 
two lakes, one round the eastern side of Brickeen, another 
between Brickeen and Dinish Islands, and a third by the 
Long Eange to the west side of the latter. 

Brickeen Island contains about nineteen acres, and is 
well wooded. It seems a continuation of the peniusula of 
Muckross, from which a narrow stream separates it. 

Dinish Island, which is also well wooded, contains about 
thirty -four acres. On it is built a neat cottage, where, by 
previous arrangement with the hotel-keeper, dinner may 
be in waiting for the tourist. 

The visitor who does not purpose seeing " Killamey in 
one day," will leave the cascade on Tore Mountain for 
another excursion, and pass through between the two 
islands into the Lower Lake. 

Of the beauty of Tore Lake much has been written, but 
that it is inferior to the smaller, or Upper, and superior to 
the Lower or larger lake, is generally conceded. The ad- 
mired author of " the Irish Sketch-book," * in answer to 
the question, "What is to be said about Tore Lake ?" re- 
plies, " When there we agreed that it was more beautiful 
than the large lake, of which it is not one-fourth the size ; 
then, when we came back, we said, * No, the large lake is 
the roost beautiful ;' and so, at every point we stopped at, 
we determined that that particular spot was the prettiest 
ill the whole lake. The fact is, and I don't care to oun 

* Thacfeeray. 



THE LOWER LAKE. iy3 

it, they are too handsome. As for a man coming from Ms 
desk in London or Dublin, and seeing ' the whole lakes in 
a day,' he is an ass for his pains. A child doing a sum in 
addition might as well read the whole multiplication table, 
and fancy he had it by heart." 

LOUGH LEANE, or THE LOWER LAKE, is now 
entered by passing under Brick een Bridge. Its area is given 
at about 5000 acres, its greatest length being five, and 
breadth three mUes. The islands upon this lake are up- 
wards of thirty in number, but very few of them exceed an 
area of one acre, while the majority come far short of that 
size. The largest islands are Rabbit Island, a little above 
twelve acres, and Innisfallen, with an area of rather more 
than twenty-one acres. The names of the islands are 
derived either from some fancied resemblance to animate 
or inanimate objects, or from being the resort of different 
animals. Thus w^e have Lamb Island, Elephant Island, 
Gun Rocks, O'Donoghue's Horse, Crow Island, Heron Island, 
Gannet Rocks, Otter Island, and Stag Island. The chief 
beauty of the Lower Lake consists in its wide placid sur- 
face, and the mountains which form its barriers on the 
south and west. To the north-east the ground is level and 
uninteresting, save for the planting on the demesnes of 
Kenmare and Muckross, which, while they lend a beauty 
of their own, want the wild grandeur of the craggy moun- 
tains which surround the Upper Lake. Innumerable nooks 
of surpassing beauty, however, do occur in the frequent 
bays and inlets which interrupt its margin, and even the 
bare rocky islets contrast amazingly with the verdure of 
the distant shores, the richly-clothed islands of InnisfaUen 
and Ross, and the mirror-like surface of the lake whose 
bosom they disturb. This lake, though it cannot boast the 
magic halo thrown around Loch Katrine by the writings of Sir 
Walter Scott, is not without its legendary interest. The 
legend of the great O'Donoghue, the tales of the M'Carthys, 
and a world of other matter, in the hands of another border 



194 THE LAKES OF KILLARNEY. 

minstrel, would supply materials for poetry such as few 
countries can boast. One legend may be worth recording 
here as a specimen which can be recommended to the 
makers of romantic ballads. It concerns the O'Donoghue 
of the Lakes, whose castle on Eoss Island lies in ruins, but 
the fame of whose deeds still lives in the memories of the 
people. 

Once eveiy seven years, on a fine morning, before the first rays of the 
sun have begun to disperse the mists from the bosom of the lake, the 
O'Donoghue comes riding over it on a beautiful snow-white horse, intent 
upon household affairs, fairies hovering before him, and strewing his path 
with flowers. As he approaches his ancient residence everything returns to 
its former state of magnificence ; his castle, his library, his prison, and his 
pigeon house, are reproduced as in olden time. Those who have courage to 
follow him over the lake may cross even the deepest parts dry-footed, and 
ride with him into the opposite mountains, where his treasures lie concealed; 
and the daring visitor will receive a liberal gift in return for his company ; 
but before the sun has risen, the O'Donoghue recrosses the water, and 
vanishes amidst the ruins of his castle. 

The character of this now spectral chief is said to have 
been just and honourable, clearly distinguishing him from 
another of the same name, who bore the distinctive appel- 
lation of " O'Donoghue of the Glens." The latter was 
" bloody and tyramious." 

GLEN A BAY is the part of the Lower Lake first entered, 
and the quiet beauty which surrounds it, coupled with the 
sheet of water beyond, which seems to melt into the hori- 
zon, give a favourable impression of the lake. A picturesque 
little cottage, known as Lady Kenmare's, stands on the 
shore. The range of hUls, which for fiilly two miles 
bounds the south-west side of the lake, takes the name of 
Glena ; it is clothed with wood, and the haimt of the red 
deer, now scarce, even in Scotland, and all but extinct in 
England.* Stag-hunts used to be of frequent occurrence 
among the lakes, and many a good fat buck has been slain 
and eaten by the Irish chiefs ; now, however, it is customary 

* The red deer is occasionally, thongh rarely, seen in Martindale on the 
west side of Ulles water 



o'sullivan's cascade. 196 

to capture tlie animal in the water, and afterwards allow 
it to escape. From Mr. Weld we extract a few notes rela- 
tive to this sport. 

On the day preceding the hunt, those preparations are made which afe 
thought best calculated to ensure a happy issue. An experienced person is 
sent up the mountain to search for the herd, and watch its motions in 
patient silence till night comes on. The deer which remains aloof from the 
herd is selected for the next day's sport. The deer, upon being roused, gene- 
rally endeavours to gain the summit of the mountain, that he may the more 
readily make his escape across the open heath to some distant retreat. To 
prevent this, numbers of people are stationed at intervals along the heights, 
who by loud shouting terrify the animal, and drive him towards the lake. I 
was once gratified by seeing a deer run for nearly a mile along the shore, with 
the hounds pursuing him in full cry. On finding himself closely pressed, 
he leaped boldly from a rock into the lake, and swam towards one of the 
islands ; but, terrified by the approach of the boats, he returned, and once 
more sought for safety on the main shore. Soon afterwards, in a desperate 
efibrt to leap across a chasm between two rocks, his strength failed him, and 
he fell exhausted to the bottom. It was most interesting to behold the 
numerous spectators who hastened to the spot. Ladies, gentlemen, pea- 
sants, hunters, combined in various groups around the noble victim as he 
lay extended in the depth of the forest. The stag, as is usual on such oc- 
casions, was preserved from death. 

The rare fern Trichomanes speciosum is found in the 
wood. 

Pursuing our course on the lake, we pass one or two 
little islets and rocks on our way to " Sweet Innisfallen," 
but if time permits, it would be well to keep the course of 
the shore to 

O'SULLIYAN'S CASCADE. Landing in a Httle bay 
at the foot of the Tomies, and following a rugged pathway 
through the thick forest, we hear from time to time the 
dashing of the water down its precipitous channel, until 
we at last reach the waterfall. **The cascade," writes 
Wright, " consists of three distinct falls ; the uppermost, 
passiQg over a ridge of rock, falls about twenty feet per- 
pendicularly into a natural basin beneath, then making its 
way between two hanging rocks, the torrent hastens down 
a second precipice, into a similar receptacle, from which 
Hecond depository, concealed from the view, it rolls orei 



196 THE LAKES OF KILLARNEY. 

into the lowest chamber of the fall. Beneath a projecting 
rock, overhanging the lowest basin, is a grotto, with a seat 
rudely cut in the rock. From this little grotto the view 
of the cascade is peculiarly beautiful and interesting. It 
appears a continued flight of three unequally elevated 
foamy stages. The recess is encompassed by rocks, and 
overshadowed by an arch of foliage, so thick as to interrupt 
the admission of light." 

INNISF ALLEN ISLAND, about half way between the 
east and west shores of the lake, is interesting on account 
of the historical associations connected with it, the charm 
thrown around it by the poetry of Moore, and more es- 
pecially for its own exceeding beauty. Of all islands it is 
perhaps the most delightful. 

The island appears from the lake or the adjoining shore to be densely 
covered with magnificent timber and gigantic evergreens, but upon landing, 
the interior of the island will be found to afford a variety of scenery well 
worthy of a visit — ^beautiful glades and lawns, embellished by thickets of 
flowering shrubs and evergreens, amongst which the arbutus and hollies are 
conspicuous for their size and beauty. Many of the timber trees are oaks, 
but the greater number are magnificent old ash trees of remarkable magni- 
tude and luxuriance of growth. The island is about twenty-one acres in 
extent, and commands the most varied and lovely views of the Lower Lake, 
its shores, and circumjacent mountain scenery. 

The abbey, whose ruins are scattered about the island, 
is believed to have been founded in 600 by St. Finian, to 
whom the cathedral of Aghadoe was dedicated. 

In this abbey the celebrated " Annals of Innisfallen " 
were composed. The work contains scraps from the Old 
Testament, a compendious, though not by any means 
valuable universal history, down to the period of St. 
Patrick, with a more perfect continuation of Irish history 
to the beginning of the fourteenth century. 

The original copy, written from 500 to 600 years ago, is now preserved 
in the Bodleian Library. The publication of this valuable work has been 
attempted at various times, but a complete translation has not yet issued 
f^om the press. The annals of Innisfallen are considered of value, more 
particularly in the history of Munster ; but the general reader would peruse 
without interest a diy chronological record of crimes, wars, and rebellluni i 



ROSS ISLAND. 197 

lists of abbots, princes, and clergy ; and a special acconnt of the petty di»> 
sensions and generally violent deaths of the ancient kings of Kerry. 

The annals record that, in 1180, the abbey of Innisfallen, which had afc 
that time all the gold and silver, and richest goods of the whole country 
deposited in it, as the place of greatest security, was plundered by !Mildwin, 
son of Daniel O'Donoghoe, as was also the church of Ardfert, and many 
persons were slain in the very cemetery by the McCarthys. We take leaT« 
of the island with Moore's lines : — 

** Sweet Innisfallen, fare thee well, 

May calm and sunshine long be thine. 
How fair thou art, let others tell, 
While but to feel how fair be mine. 
*' Sweet Innisfallen, long shall dwell 

In memory's dream that sunny smile, 
Which o'er thee on that evening fell, 
When first I saw thy fairy isle." 

EOSS ISLAND, situated on the eastern shore of the 
lake, is not properly an island, but a peninsula, though at 
high water it is difficult to reach it from the shore without 
having recourse to the bridge. It is well planted and in- 
tersected with beautiful walks. On the southern point we 
come upon a copper mine opened in 1804 by Colonel Hall, 
father of the talented S. C. Hall. The position was very 
unfavourable, being close to the margin of the lake ; but 
notwithstanding this, the labour proceeded and was re- 
warded for a time by an abundance of rich ore. Crofton 
Croker asserts that " during the four years that Ross mine 
was worked, nearly <£80,000 worth of ore was disposed of 
at Swansea, some cargoes producing .£40 per ton." 

" But this very richness," he adds, "was the ultimate cause of its de- 
struction, as several small veins of pure oxide of copper split off from the 
main lode, and ran towards the surface. The ore of these veins was much 
more valuable than the other, consequently the miners (who were paid by 
the quality as well as quantity) pursued the smaller veins so near the axtp- 
face, that the water broke through into the mine in such an overwhelming 
degree, that an engine of thirty horse-power could make no sensible im- 
pression on the inundation." 

There can be no doubt that these mines had been 
worked at an early period, whether by the Danes or not, 
it is difficult to say. Colonel HaU's miners found sevei&l 



198 THE LAKES OF KILLAHNEY: 

rude stone hammers of a very early make, besides other 
unequivocal proofs of pre-occupation of the mines. 

Hoss Castle is a conspicuous object from some positions 
on the lake, but is generally visited from land. From the 
fiunmiit is obtained a most delightful view. Admission 
may be obtained by applying at the cottage close by ; a 
small gratuity is expected. The castle was built by one 
of the O'Donoghues. In 1652 it held out against the 
English, and was the last to surrender in Munster. On 
the 26th July, Lord Muskerry had been defeated in the 
county Cork, and many of his followers slain, among whom 
was a Kerry chieftain, Macgillicuddy, who held a commis- 
sion as colonel. Eetreating to Eoss Castle, he held out 
against the repeated attacks of General Ludlow, and not 
until " ships of war " were seen upon the lake did the 
garrison give in. An old prophecy had declared Ross im- 
pregnable till ships should surround it; and the L?ish 
soldiers, looking upon the prophecy as accomplished, would 
not strike a blow. Ludlow in his memoirs thus narrates 
the incident: — 

" When we had received our boats, each of which was capable of con- 
taining 120 men, I ordered one of them to be rowed about the water, in 
order to find out the most convenient place for landing upon the enemy ; 
which they perceiving, thought fit, by a timely submission, to prevent the 
danger that threatened them." After the surrender 5000 of the Munster 
men laid down their arms. Lord Broghill, who accompanied Ludlow, had 
granted to him "£1000 yearly out of the estates of Lord Muskerry." 

The castle is now in ruins, but occupies a situation 
which, added to its ivy-clad walls, gives it an interesting 
and romantic character. 

If Muckross be the evening destination of the tourist, or 
if he desires in the same day to visit the abbey, he 
would do well to pull to the south-west corner of the 
lake, and there land. The boatmen will in all pro* 
bability object to the length of this journey, being in 
all about thirteen miles, besides the distance they 
have had to row the empty boat to meet the tourist 



THE ABBEY OF MUCKROSS. 199 

at Lord Brandon's cottage ; but the sail is not more 
than he has a right to expect. As Muckross will be 
more properly visited in the walking excursion which 
we have planned, we will leave it at present, and 
merely observe that the walk between the landing 
and Killarney is about three miles and a half. The 
entire day's excursion is nearly thirty-two miles ; for 
the first eleven we can drive, then walk or ride four, 
sail about thirteen, and walk three and a half. 

KILLARNEY TO MUCKROSS ABBEY, TORC, ETC. 

THE ABBEY OF MUCKROSS is a picturesque arid 
beautiful ruin, situated on the demesne of Mr. Herbert, 
M.P. By a neat lodge gate the visitor is freely admitted 
into the grounds of Muckross, and passing do^\Ti a walk in 
the direction of the lake, he suddenly observes to his right, 
on a little knoll surrounded by trees, among which the 
yew is conspicuous, the ruins of the far-famed abbey. It 
was founded in 1440, and repaired in 1602. The ruia 
consists of an abbey and church. The cloisters belonging 
to the former are in the form of a sombre piazza surround- 
ing a dark court-yard, rendered still more gloomy by the 
presence in its centre of a magnificent yew tree. The dif- 
ferent ofi&ces connected with the abbey are still in a state 
of tolerable preservation. The large fire-place of the 
kitchen was taken possession of by a hermit of the name 
of John Drake about a hundred years ago. He lived here 
for eleven years, and from his solemn but cheerful aspect, 
bis seclusion and piety excited the interest of the people. 
In the church are many tombs, both old and new, bear- 
ing such illustrious names as O'Sullivan, McCarthy, and 
O'Donoghue Mor, the latter having a beautifully written 
epitaph upon it. No gratuity is allowed to be solicited by 
attendants. Here also lies buried the late ^Ir. Herbert, 
the much-esteemed M.P. for Kerry, and sometime Chief- 
Secretary for Ireland. 



200 KILLARNEY TO MUCKROSS ABBEY, 

MUCKROSS ABBEY MANSION is the seat of H. A 
Herbert, Esq., M.P. for tlie county. The mansion was 
built from a design by Mr. Burn of London. It is new, 
and a fine example of the Elizabethan style. From various 
points in the demesne good views of the lake and surround- 
ing scenery are obtained, w^hich to particularise would but 
lessen the pleasure of seeing. By a good road we make 
the circuit of the domain and the islands Brickeen and 
Dinish, and join the high road about a mile from Tore 
Cottage. In hidden watery nooks among these woods, 
covered by shrubs, large ferns, and moss, grow isolated 
patches of that botanical treasure the Trichomanes speciosura, 
Glena is another station for it ; but without the assistance 
of a guide to point out the habitats, it is almost in vain to 
search for it. Its miniature, the Hymenophyllum Tun- 
hridgense, grows in vast luxuriance on every rock moistened 
by the spray of a waterfall or the trickling of all but im- 
perceptible streams. Nowhere is the latter more abundant 
than at the reputed station of the Trichomanes. 

TORO CASCADE. The visitor is admitted by a little 
gate, and may give a small gratuity (6d.) to the person 
who acts as porter. The gravel walk leads up a valley 
lined with larch on the one side, and holly, birch, oak, 
alder, and arbutus, on the other. The stream all the while 
is heard roaring down its channel on our right ; a rough 
wooden seat is gained, and the cascade bursts suddenly 
upon the view. It comes over a broken wall of rock, 
forming numerous cascades in its progress, but, from the 
nature of the rock, has less of the 

— — " Falling, and brawling, and sprawling, 
And driving, and riving, and striving," 

characteristic of Lowdore Eall, which, in appearance, though 
not in magnitude, it somewhat resembles. On each side 
rise precipitous rocks, covered with luxuriant trees and 
ferns. To the left a circuitous footpath leads to a spot 
from whence is obtained a view of the Middle and Lower 



THE ASCENT OF MANGERTOIf. 201 

Lakes, with the peculiar peninsula of wooded rock which 
separates them. The Tore mountain rises close at hand 
on the left ; beyond the Middle Lake Glena appears, and 
the faint line of the Dingle hills forms the distance to the 
right. In the immediate foreground is the demesne and 
mansion of Muckross. The walk conducts still higher to 
a spot where the cascade is far under the observer's feet, 
and here the view is even liner than that from the lower 
station. The view from Tore cascade should never be 
omitted, for it is certainly one of the finest in Ireland. 

The waters of the cascade are precipitated in a sheet of white foam over 
a ledge of rocks sixty or seventy feet in height. After breaking on the 
rocks in mist and spray, the torrent resumes its impetuous course 
througn a deep narrow ravine, amidst plantations of fir and pine trees, 
and tastefully arranged pleasure-grounds, until it falls into the lake. 



THE ASCENT OF IMANGERTON. 

Until lately, Mangerton was considered the highest 
mountain in Ireland. It has been decided, however, by 
subsequent survey, that Carrantual is 658 feet higher, 
their respective heights being 2756 and 3414. The dis- 
tance between Muckross and the summit is five miles. 
The ascent, which is not very difficult, may be performed 
on ponies. The views from the various points are very 
fine, embracing an extent of scenery which gradually 
expands as we ascend. Four miles from Muckross we 
come to the Devil's Punch-Bowl, a tarn 2206 feet above 
the level of the sea, and more than two thousand above 
the lakes. It occupies a long oval basiu, about twenty- 
eight acres in extent. On every side but one the tarn 
is surrounded with shelving cliffs. C. J. Fox is said 
to have swam round the tarn in 1772. Near the lower 
bank of the Punch-bowl, not far from the ascending 
path, there is a fine echo ; in fair weather a magnificent 
view is got on reaching the summit. Those who do 
not care for such views, or cannot endure fatigue, may 



202 ASCENT OF THE REEKS. 

ascend tlie road as far as Drumrourk Hill, behind the 
Muckross Hotel, where views of a romantic and agreeable 
character may be obtained without fatigue. 

It is usual to return by the same route. Many, how- 
ever, will prefer to turn off (under the direction of a 
guide) to Glenacoppal, or the Glen of the Horse, 
lymg between Mangerton and Stoompa. This lonely 
glen, which is about two miles in length, contains 
three small lakes, one called O'Donohue's Ink Bottle, 
from the darkness of its waters. 

Lough Guitane is a good lake for an angler, but the 
scenery around it is dreary, and has nothing in common 
with the Killamey Lakes. 

ASCENT OF THE REEKS."*^ 

The distance from Killamey to the summit is fifteen 
miles. The ascent is steep, and in some places 
difficult. Many routes are proposed, but these will 
depend on the position from which the tourist 
starts as well as his inclination. The services of a 
guide may be secured for half-a-crown, and it will 
be well to employ one. The descent is sometimes 
made by the valley of Coom-a-dhuv, and thence 
the journey may be continued to Killamey by the 
lakes or road, as the tourist may please. 

Mr. Curwen, in his " Observations on the state of 
Ireland," thus characterises the Reeks : — " Figure to your- 
self the towering mass rising almost perpendicular from its 
base to an elevation of 3414 feet, overshadowing the 
translucent waters of the lake. Such is the height of 
Macgillicuddy's Reeks, the most elevated mountaiu in Ire- 
land, whose summit is so indented, as to render it difficult 
on which point to fix as that most entitled to pre-emiuence. 
This mountain is accompanied by many others, little 
* For heights of mountains in county Kerry* see page 229- 



KILLARNEY TO VALENTIA. 203 

inferior in loftiness and magnitude. One vast uninter- 
rupted expanse of purple heath overspreads the upper 
regions, while the shores of the lake are luxuriantly fringed 
with the arbutus and other trees." 



EXCURSION FROM KILLARNEY TO VALENTIA. 

Tourists who delight in coast scenery, and have time to spare, will be 
repaid by a visit to the Island of Valentia. A mail car leaves Killamey 
every day for Cahirciveen, distant 45 miles. The first half of the drive is 
rather bleak, but affords fine views of some genuine Irish mud cabins - 
miniLs chimney, window, chairs ; minus everything of a civilised nature. 
Lough Carragh (where there is a good inn) may also be visited on this 
route. 

The latter half of the road winds around part of the bay of Dingle, and 
abounds in views of that estuary. At places the road becomes very pre- 
cipitous. 

To enjoy the best views the right hand side of the car should be pre- 
ferred. 

Arriving at Cahiiciveen, the ferry must be asked for, which is about 
2 miles off*. 

On being rowed across, the tourist will find a good and clean hotel near 
the landing place. 

When there, he should go along the lower coast road, and through the 
Knight of Kerry's grounds to the lighthouse, which stands sentinel of the 
bay. It is situated upon some rocks, upon which *' Cromwell's fort " was 
once built, and over which the Atlantic waves dash with the noise of 
thunder. 

At the other end of the island is Bray Head, rising precipitously 
1000 feet out of the sea. The view from this point on a fine day is very 
fine. Fifteen miles out, the Skellings rise like two gigantic Gothic houses 
out of the sea, and have, like all the islands in view, the most outrS and 
fantastic shapes possible. All along the iron bound coast great rocky cliffs 
rise, and beat back the fury of the Atlantic waves. Not with impunity to 
themselves, however, for one, the mountain whose form at one time 
was like half a circle, now appears like a quarter only, the sea side of it 
having been completely washed away, and it now rises perpendicularly out 
of the water. Looking from this point, one cannot but believe it to be true 
what good authorities state, that all the estuaries upon the coast of Kerry 
were at a comparatively recent period dry land, and that the sea is eating 
away the coast at a fearfully rapid rate. A beacon tower rises from the sum- 
mit of the head, and although some of the natives speak of it as very 
ancient, it is evidently of comparatively modem origin. A few years ago 
it was garrisoned by soldiers, who, what with fog and rain, alternating 
vitb rain and fog, must have had a very Dleasant life of it. 



204 KILLAKNET TO VALENTIA 

The walk back to the hotel round the other side of the island will aftord 
h variety of scenery. The entire walk will not be more than 16 miles. 

To those who have not seen the Penrhyn slate quarries, the slate quarry 
at Valentia is worth visiting, and the view from the hill above them will 
repay a visit. 

To those who can do without a night's sleep for once, a night upon the 
Atlantic with the herring fishermen aflfords capital sport. The splendid ap- 
pearance of the sea, which looks one mass of silvery light, and the excitement 
of catching fish by the thousand, well rewards one for all trouble involved. 
The waves are almost as big as houses, and of course impart a very pleasant 
motion to the boat, and make one nolens volens contribute very considerably 
to the support of the piscatory tribes. The fishermen will not receive any 
payment ; but a bottle of whisky and some tobacco will prove very accept- 
able to them about 2 or 3 a.m. Indeed the true character of the native 
Irish is evinced very plainly in these out-of-the-way districts where they 
are not spoiled by the influx of visitors. They willingly put themselves to 
great inconvenience without any idea of payment, and seem affronted when 
it is proffered. 

An agreeable excursion can be made to the caves near Doulus Head. If 
the weather be stormy, it is dangerous to attempt going, as the waves then 
dash in with tremendous fury, and of course render it impossible for any 
boat to enter. 

The hotel is very moderate in its charges, and is distinguished by the 
total absence of the pulex irritans and all its relatives. 

The pedestrian who desires to get back to Killamey again wiU find it a 
good plan to go from Valentia to Waterville (Hartopp Arms) or Sneem 
(a smaU inn), then to Kenmare, Glengariff, then back to Kenmare, and so on 
to Killamey, 



EXCURSION FROM KILLARNEY TO DINGLE. 

Should time allow, another excursion may be made from Killamey by 
road, via Milltown and Castlemain (15 mHes) to Dingle (42 miles, Petrie's 
Commercial). The road is good all the way from Castlemain to Inch, it 
skirts the sea and affords many fine views. Eight miles west from Dingle 
is the Sybil's Head, on which stand the ruins of an old castle 675 feet above 
the sea, and Ferriter Point the westermost point of Europe. The tourist 
can return from Dingle, which is a smaU decayed town, to Tralee (30 mHes) 
by the maU car road, or if he hires or walks, by the road which crosses the 
Connor HiU (1565 feet), from which many extensive views are obtained. 

The above excursions though given here are not recom- 
mended to the general tourist. 



205 



CORK TO KILLARNEY. 



By Railway to Bandon and Dukmanway, thence by 
Coach via Glengariff. 

A night should be spent on this route either at Bantry or Glengaritf. 





MHes. 




Miles. 


Cork, 




Bantry . 


20 5ri 


Bandon (hy rail) . 


20 


Glengariff 


lOi 67^ 


Enniskean 


. 8^ 28^ 


Kenmare 


21 88^ 


Dunmanway . 


. 8f 37i 


Killamey 


19 107^ 



(By rail from Cork to Bandon and Dunmanway ; thence it will be neces- 
sary to hire a car. On the railway journey tourists may stop at any 
station, and resume it when they please.) 

The railway to Bandon passes firHt over a deep and wide valley, and then 
alternately through cuttings in sand or rock, again emerging into daylight, 
and running level with rich pastures on either side. Tliirteen miles from 
Cork a branch line strikes off on the left to Kinsale (George Hotel). This 
town, situate on an arm of the sea which forms a safe and commodious 
harbour, is one of the chief fishing stations in the south of Ireland. It was 
here that the Spanish were defeated in the reign of Elizabeth. 



BANDON. 

Hotels. — Devonshire Arms — Railway and Commercial (French's), 

This town stands on the forfeited property of the chief 
O'Mahony, who had joined in the rebellion of the Earl of 
Desmond. Eichard Boyle, afterwards Earl of Cork, pur- 
chased in 1602 the greater part of O'Mahony's property, 
and in 1608 commenced building a town on the banks of 
the river Bandon. It was carefully fortified, but owing to 
the inhabitants rising in behalf of James, the walls were 
removed. The amount of good done by the first Earl of 
Cork to the surrounding country was very great, yet bis 
lealous and persecuting spirit rendered him as much an 
object of fear as love. 
.. It is told of Swift that when he and his servant were 



2C6 CORK TO KILLARNET. 

entering Bandon, the Dean being a little in advance, wrote 
on the gate of the town the following lines : — 

" Jew, Turk, or Atheist, 

May enter here, 

But not a Papist." 

The servant on arriving at the spot read the inscription, 
and concluding it was the Dean's composition, added the 
following rejoinder : — 

" Whoever wrote this did write it well, 
The same is posted on the gates of hell." 

The town is happily now more liberal in its views, and the 
obnoxious inscription has disappeared. There are places 
of worship for Episcopalians, Presbyterians, Eoman Catho- 
lics, and Methodists. From Bandon the railway follows 
the river Bandon and affords some pleasant views, and ter- 
minates at the little town of Dunmanway. Here the coach 
is taken, and it will be observed that the country becomes 
more wild and picturesque as we proceed, until we arrive 
at the village of Drimoleague, when it assumes the savage, 
stern, and moorland aspect which characterises almost the 
whole remainder of the road to Killarriey. 

BANTHY. 

Hotel.— Vickery's Commercial— {Charges on application.) 

As a town this place deserves little notice ; although 
from its position as a stage to the lakes, it is frequently 
visited. It is finely situated at the upper end of the 
beautiful bay of Bantry, of which many picturesque views 
may be obtained from hills and rising grounds on the 
shore ; a boy will lead the way to any of these stations 
for a few coppers. The demesne of Lord Bantry is close 
to the town, and the grounds are worth a visit, for the 
sake^f the admirable views obtained of the bay. The town 
depends upon fishing in winter, and tourists in sum- 
mer. It was here that the " aids from France " were 



BANTRT. S07 

to have landed. " The fleet originally consisted of twenty- 
five ships of the line, but they had been scattered and 
dispersed by violent storms ; and when the remnant of 
this proud armament reached the Irish coast, the dissen- 
sions and jealousy which existed amongst the leaders of 
the expedition prevented them taking advantage of the 
opportunity that offered, of landing the troops without 
opposition." It is usual to continue by day-car to Glen- 
gariff, and thence to Kenmare ; but some may prefer the 
walk over Priest-leap direct. 

Unless the tourist have a considerable amount of perse- 
verance, and can subsist on the contents of his 
knapsack, this route should not be attempted. For 
the entire distance, which is called seventeen, but 
more nearly resembles twenty miles, not a public- 
house even of the meanest description is to be met 
with ; and probably none of the few persons to be 
met with on the way will be able to speak English. 
The road is certainly not bad for such a country, but 
rising nearly two thousand feet above the sea, is at 
times rather steep and toilsome. The route is not 
without its charms, however, to the tourist who 
delights in long wild rambles. Agreeable and atten- 
tive guides over the mountain may easily be procured 
in the neighbourhood. 

There are two routes from Bantry to Glengariff, one by 
land, the other by water. The latter is by some preferred, 
as by that means the ^vild scenery of the bay, which is 
twenty miles in length by from three to six or eight miles 
in breadth, is viewed to great advantage. 

A long drive of 22 miles, through a wild country, may be taken from 
Bantry to Skibbereen via Ballydehob (12 m.). On the coast, 3 m. from th^ 
latter village, is Rossbrin Castle, and a little to the east of this interesting 
ruin the Cappagh copper mines, well worth a visit. 



208 
GLENGARIFF. 

Hotels — The Koyal— Eccles. 

The visitor to Ireland will be well repaid by extending 
his journey to this place. 

Glengariff is a mountain glen, about 3 miles in length, 
and seldom more than a quarter of a mile in breath ; the 
rocks are wild and rugged in the extreme, but harmonised and 
softened into beauty by a rich covering of yew, holly, and 
arbutus, and effectively contrasted with the cultivation and 
art displayed in the beautiful grounds of Glengariff Castle. 
The most extensive view of the glen is obtained from the 
steep of Old Berehaven road, near Cromwell's Bridge, from 
whence may be seen the dark woods, hills, and rushing 
streams of Glengariff, the lofty blue mountains of Bere- 
haven, the bold shores and numerous islands which break 
the expanse of Bantry Bay, and, afar off, the ocean boun- 
dary. The road from this to Kenmare, which was 
constructed many years since by the celebrated Scotch 
engineer, Nimmo, ascends a mountainous ridge, and affords 
fine views of the picturesque valleys beneath. On the 
summit of the ridge the road passes through a tunnel 600 
feet long in the rock, when we enter the county of Kerry 
and obtain a sight of the Keeks. From this point the road 
becomes less wild and more cultivated, imtil we arrive at * 

* Travellers not pressed for time will be rewarded by taking the longer 
route by Castletown Bear, 15 miles from Glengariflf. The road passes 
through wild and romantic scenery, seldom visited by tourists. Comfortable 
inn at Castletown and good fishing. A walk of ten miles takes the teaveller 
across the country to Ardgoom ; from thence a boat can be taken at high 
water across the Kenmare River to Old Dromore, and thence per Muckross 
to Killamey. A mail-car, carrying passengers, runs through Glengariff 
trom Castletown to Bantry. 



209 



KENMARE. 

Hotel. — The Lansdowne Arms. 

This is usnally the haK-way station between Glengariff 
and Killamey. The town, which is entered by a fine 
suspension bridge over the river, is small, but neat and 
clean, and the bay delightful. There is one hotel, and a 
mail-car passes to and from Killamey every day. The 
barren and wild, but picturesque country, increases in 
grandeur as we advance, until upon reaching the summit 
of the ascent, the mountains of Killarney rise gradually 
and successively into view, and we descend into the rich 
and charming scenery surrounding the far-famed Lakes of 
Killamey. 

CORK TO KILLARNEY 

VIA Macroom and Glengariff. 

Railway open to Macroom, IJ hour. 



Cork. 


Miles. 




Miles. 


Macroom . 


18 


Bantry Bay . 


47 


Inchigeelagh . 


25 


Glengariff 


53 


Gougane Barra . 


33 


Keninare . 


. 74 


Pass of Kamaneigli 


39 


Killarney . 


83 



This route, which may be confidently recommended, was 
formerly traversed by a two-horse car from Cork, but since 
the completion of the new line, passengers are taken direct 
to Macroom, whence a long car will convey them the 
rest of the way. The railway branches off the Bandon line 
{Station: Albert Quay) shortly after leaving Cork, and 
follows the river Lee up to its terminus at Macroom, 
There is nothing of much interest to attract attention from 
the railway, unless it be the superiority of the country 
through which it passes as a pastoral district. But im- 
mediately after leaving Macroom, the scenery becomes 
wild and romantic. By this route, time is allowed 
p 



210 GOUGANE BARRA. 

for a visit by branch car to Gougane Barra, and the Pass ol 
Kamaneigli is seen to advantage. 

Macroom is a market-town of some size. Its ancient 
name was Maigh cruim, signifying the plain of Crom, who 
was the Jupiter Tonans of the Irish. The Bards, the second 
order of Druids, held their meetings here, even after the 
introduction of Christianity. The castle, ascribed to King 
John, is now an ivy-mantled ruin, situated contiguous to 
Macroom Castle, an elegant mansion. On this route we 
may visit, by branch car from Balnageary, 

GOUGANE BAERA, the wild home of the saintly 
founder of Cork, is a solitary mountain lake, formed by 
the expansion of the river Lee near its source. The lake, 
which covers an area of 250 acres, is surrounded on three 
sides by lofty cliffs, whose dark shadows it gloomily reflects. 
Near the centre of the lake is the small w^ooded island on 
which lived the pious St. Fionn Bar, connected with the 
shore by a rude artificial causeway. The verdure of the 
islet floating upon the glassy surface of the waters, and the 
foliage of the ash trees hanging over it, contrast finely with 
the bare and craggy ramparts of the opposite shores. The 
ruins of the hermitage are, apart from their romantic 
situation and associations, of little interest. The well is 
supposed to possess peculiar virtues, and was formerly 
much resorted to by pilgrims, twice every year ; but the 
scenes enacted at these patrons were often very gross, and 
consequently the Roman Catholic clergy have discounte- 
nanced them. Returning to the main road at Balnageary, 
the tourist will proceed to Glengariff by the 

Pass of Kamaneigh, a rugged ravine, through which 
rushes a mountain torrent. 

Arrive at Bantry (page 206), and Glengariff (page 208). 

N,B. — The route from Killarney to Limerick and the 
Shannon is described at page 224. 



GALWAY, 

LIMEBICK, THE SHANNON, 

AND 

CONNEMAEA. 



212 



V^DUBLIN TO GALWAY, through COUNTIES DUBLIN, ICILDARE, 
MEATH, WESTMEATH, ROSCOMMON, and GALWAY, by Mid- 
land Great Western Railway. 



ON RIGHT FROM 
DUBLIN. 



Village op Glas- 
NEviN, residence of 
Addison, Swift, Tic- 
kell, Sheridan, etc. 
Botanic Gardens of 
Royal Dublin Society, 
and Cemetery, with 
tombs of Curran and 
O'ConnelL 



FEVOLA& 



DuNSiNK. The obser- 
vatory of Trinity Col- 
lege is on the summit 
of a wooded hill, as 
also the residence of 
Sir Wm. Hamilton. 






125| 
124^ 



122i 

121i 

120 
119J 

117J 



Stations, etc. 



Dublin. 

The Broadstone Ter- 
minus is built of 
granite, and combines 
the features o'f the 
Grecian and Egyptian 
styles. The main line 
runs in a westerly 
direction, generally 
through a flat, unin- 
teresting country. 



Blanchardstown. 

A village on the river 
Tolka, 2Jm. from the 
station. It contains a 
nunnery and schooL 



Clonsilla. 

Junction for Trim, 
Navan, and Kells. 

Lncan. 
Lucan was formerly a 
place of fashionable 
resort, on account of 
its Spa. It was the 
property of the Sars- 
fields,. one of whom 
was created Earl of 
Lucan by James II. 
The title is now held 
bytheBinghams. The 
country surrounding 
Lucan is very rich and 
beautiful. 



ON left FROM 
DUBLIN. 



PhcenixPark. Wel- 
lington Obelisk. 



Viceregal Lodge, 
the residence during 
the summer months of 
the Lord Lieutenant. 
The building was 
bought from the Earl 
of Leitrim in 1784, 
and added to at vari- 
ous times by the re- 
presentatives of mo- 
narchy who occupied 
it. 



Castlenock, a ruin 
on a wooded emi- 
nence. The castle 
was erected by Hugh 
Tyrrell, one of the 
followers of Henry IL 
Edward Bruce took it 
in 1316, as also did 
Colonel Monck in 
1642. 



213 



FROM DUBLIN TO GALWAY, &c.— Continited. 



ON RIGHT FROM 
DUBLIN. 



CoNFET Castle. The 
ruin of a tower, being 
portion of a fortress 
founded evidently by 
one of the early Eng- 
lish settlers in Ire- 
land. 



The Royal College 
OP St. Patrick, for 
the education of Ro- 
man Catholic Clergy, 
was opened for stu- 
dents in 1795. The 
building, which con- 
sists of two quadran- 
gles, has latterly been 
much extended, in 
accordance with the 
designs of the late 
Mr. Pugin. It has 
accommodation for 
520 students, who 
have the advantage of 
215 private rooms. 
The college contains 
a library, a fine hall, 
cloisters, etc. 

The Parish Church is 
an interesting erec- 
tion, traced to the 
fifteenth century. 
The windows are 
much admired. 






115^ 
114 



lllj 



stations, etc. 



Br. over Lififey ; enter 
Kildare County. 

Leixlip. 

Leixlip Castle was 
erected in the twelfth 
century by Adam 
Fitz-Hereford ; it is 
now the seat of Baron 
de Robeck. 



Maynooth. 
(See page 223). 

The castle was erected 
in 1426 by John Fitz- 
gerald, sixth Earl of 
Kildare. Sir William 
Brereton besieged 
and took the castle 
in the time of Henry 
VIII. The estate was 
confiscated, but after- 
wards restored to the 
eleventh EarL The 
castle is now in ruins. 
The massive keep and 
a portion of the out- 
works stiU remain. 



fa ^ 



15 



ON left from 
DUBLIN. 



A short walk along 
the bank of the Liffey 
leads to the famous 
salmon leap, a spot 
sacred to Dublin pic- 
nic parties. The river 
faUs over a ledge of 
rock in a beautiful 
cascade. The vale is 
well wooded, and al- 
together the scene is 
one. of surpassing 
beauty. 



Taqhadob Round 
Tower, 2 m. dist. S^ 



Carton, 2^ m. 3^ 
distant, the princely 
residence of the Duke 
ofLeinster — Ireland's 
only Duke. The man- 
sion is in the Grecian 
style, by Richard 
Cassels, who also 
designed Leinster 
House in Kildare 
Street, now occupied 
by the Royal Dublin 
Society. 



214 



PROM DUBLIN TO GALWAY, bQ.—Cmtinmd. 



ON RIGHT FROM 


1^ 


STATIONS, BTO. 


11 


■~1 

ON LEFT FROM | 


DUBLIN. 


^ 






DUBLIN. i' 
— 1 




107^ 


Eilcock 

Is said to have de- 
rived its name from 
a lady named St. 
Cocha, who founded 
a monastery here. 


19 




M9 Trim, 12 mUes 
distant, tlie county 


105^ 


Fernslock. 


21 


DoNADEA Castle, the 
seat of Sir Gerald G. 


town of Meath, has 






Aylmer, Bart. 


ruins of a castle built 








by the De Lacys in 


120 


- 


24^ 


Sepulchral Mount 


1180,said to have been 




■ 


AT Cloncurry. a 


the residence of King 








large mass of earth- 


John ; also the ruins 








work, resembling 


of an ancient abbey 








those known to con- 


founded by the De 


100 


Enfield. 


26i 


tain human remains. 


Lacys. Several par- 




Jill IIPX\A« 


There is an old church 


liaments have been 




This was an impor- 




in ruins beside it. 


held here. The late 




tant posting station 




The place gives the 


Duke of Wellington 




before the opening of 




title of Baron to the 


spent some years 
of his youth at 




the railway. 




family of Lawless. 


Trim, whose military 










achievements are 










commemorated by a 










handsome Corinthian 










column erected by 










subscription. 












98 


Br. or. river Black- 
water. 


28^ 


Ruins of Car- 6^ 
bury Castle, in the 
distance. Erected by 
the Birminghams in 
the twelfth century. 




96 


Moyvalley 


30J 


It passed into the 
hands of the family of 
CoUey or Cowley in 






Br. or. river Boyne, 


33 


the sixteenth century. 






and enter County 




The Duke of Welling- 


' 


Meath. Boyne aque- 




ton was descended 


1 




duct. 




from this famUy. The 



215 



FROM DUBLIN TO GALWAY, &c.— Continued. 



ON RIGHT FROM 


it 


STATIONS, ETC. 


53 ^g 
S2 


ON LEFT FROM 


DUBLIN. 


^1 






DUBLIN. 








name and arms of 




m 


Hill of Down. 


36 


Wellesley were as- 
sumed by the Cowleys 
in 1728, when they 




85 


Killncan. 
Good black flagstone 
quarries in the vi- 
cinity. 


41J 


succeeded to the pro- 
perty of Garret Wel- 
lesley of Dangan. 


MuUingar is an assize 


76^ 


Mulling'ar. 


50 




town, with important 
fairs and markets for 
horses, cattle, and 
agricultural produce ; 
and barracks for 1000 
men. Some remains 
exist of an Augustine 
priory, founded in 




Train usually waits 5 
minutes. 

;t^Branch to Cavan 
(35| miles), to Long- 
ford (26 miles), and 
Sligo (84 miles). 




Lough Ennell, 
which covers about 
3400 acres, 5 miles 
in length by about 1 J 
mile in breadth. 


1227, and of a Domi- 










nican friary, erected 










iu 1237. 












73 




53i 


RocHi''ORT House, 
the seat of Sir F. 
Hopkins, Bart. 




7U 




55 


Belvidere, formerly 
the residence of the 




68^ 


Castletown. 


58 


Earl of Lanesborough 
now the seat of Mr. 




64^ 


Streamstown. 
Branch to Clara, 8 
miles. 


62 


Marley. The grounds 
are tastefully laid out, 
and command good 
views of Loch Ennell, 
or Belvidere Lake. 




m 


Deep cutting through 
limestone. 


64 


Laragh CASTT.E. The 
ruin of a tower. 


BallinderryLough. 


60^ 




66 




An artificial island, 










with antique swords, 


58^ 


Moate, 


68 




and spears, and bone 
of cow, horse, and pig, 
were found in 1850. 
A canoe, made from 




A town on the old 
coach road between 
Galway and Dublin. 






the hollowed trunk of 






75 


Motdrum, the seat of 


a tree, was also found. 








Lord Castlemaine. 


A large number of fish 
exist in the lake. 




Athlone. 


78 


disjunction for Poit- 

TARLINGTON. 



'216 



FROM DUBLIN TO GALWAT, &c.— Ccmfiniiecl 



ON RIGHT FROM 




STATIONS, ETC. 


1=' 


ON LEFT FROM 


DUBLIN. 


^ 






DUBLIN. 


.^ir Auburn, 8 miles 


48i 


Athlone 


78' 


Seven Churches of 


distant (page 260). 

Garb ALLY, seat of 
the Earl of Clancarty. 




Is a military station. 
It sends one member 
to Parliament (page 
252). 




Clonmacnoise, six 
miles by Shannon, 
and twelve by road. 


Branch to Roscom- 








mon, Castlebar, 




The Shannon is 






Westport, and Fox- 




crossed by a magnifi- 






ford- 




cent bridge designed 
by Mr. Hemans. 






f 


34 


Ballinasloe. 

The town is in two 
counties, i.e., Gal way 
and Roscommon, 
Chiefly remarkable 


92i 




i 


32i 


for its extensive Oc- 
tober horse and cattle 
fair. Contains places 
of worship forvarious 
religious sects. The 
ruins of a cast! e of the 
16th century still 
exist (page 229). 


94 


AuGHRiM, famous as 
the scene of a battle, 
fought on the 12th 
July 1691, between 
King James' Irish 
forces, commanded 
by St. Ruth, and the 
forces of King Wil- 
liam III., command- 


KlLCONNELL ABBET 

Ruins. 


28 




98^ 


ed by General de 
Ginkle. King James' 
forces were totally 


WooDLAWN, seat of 
Lord Ashtown. 


25 


Woodlawn. 


lOli 


routed, and St. Ruth 
was kiUed in this en- 
gagement. 




16 


Connemara Moun- 
tains visible to the 
right. 


llOJ 




Ruins op Bally- 


13 


Athenry. 


113J 




DAViD Castle. 




A very ancient town, 
having the town 






Athenry. a battle 




walls, castle, reli- 






was fought in the 




gious houses, and 






neighbourhood, in 




castellated gates, all 






1315, between the 




in ruins. Branch to 






English and Irish, 




TuAM, 16 miles. 






when the latter were 


7i 




119 


RuiNO of Derrydon- 1 


defeated. 








nel Castue. 



J 



217 



FROM DUBLIN TO GALWAY, &c.—€onfAnu€d. 


! ox RIGHT FROM 
DDBLIN. 


It 

fe'5 
5i 


STATIONS, ETC. 


- c 
121 


ON LEFT FROM 
DUBLIN. 




Oranmore. 


View of Galway Bay 
and Islands of Anan. 


Lough Athalia, -which 
receives the waters of 
Lough Corrib. 


\ 


A handsome swivel 
bridge, which affords 
" two steamboat- 
ways of 60 feet each. " 


126i 




\ 





Galway. 
The terminus, part of 
which forms the Rail- 
way Hotel (page 263). 


126^ 





COUNTY KILDAEE is merely skirted on the north side 
by this line of railway. The southern part of the county 
has already been described in the route from Dublin to Cork. 

Maynooth is celebrated on account of its ruined castle 
and Roman Catholic College. The to\yn consists of one 
wide street. At one end is an entrance to Carton, the fine 
seat of the Duke of Leinster, with a demesne of about 
1000 acres, which may be seen on week days,"^ At the 
other stands the ruined castle, once the stronghold of the 
Fitzgeralds. The castle, which was built in 1426 by 
the sixth Earl of Kildare, was treacherously surrendered 
by the foster-brother of " Silken Thomas," a brave Fitz- 
gerald. The latter being in rebellion against Henry VIII., 
intrusted the government of the castle to Christopher 
Parese, who sent a letter to the Lord Deputy, offering to 
give up the castle to him. The Deputy availed himself of 
the offer, when Parese, expecting some further reward in 
addition to the price of his treason, was asked by the 
Deputy what favours he had received at the hand of Lord 
Thomas Fitzgerald. Parese, in hopes to raise his value in 
the Deputy's eyes, recounted the many favours he had 
received almost daily at the hand of Thomas, and waa 



♦ Leave to fish on the lake is granted on written application. 



218 DUBLIN TO GALWAY. 

answered, " How, Parese, couldst thou find it in thy heart 
to betray the castle of so kind a lord ? Here, Mr. Trea- 
surer, pay down the money he has covenanted for — and 
here, also, Executioner, without delay, as soon as the money 
is counted out, chop off his head." Not far from this ruin 
is situated the 

Boyal College of Maynooth. Young men intended for 
the Catholic church were formerly under the necessity of 
proceeding to continental universities. During the war of 
the latter part of the last century, it was impossible to con- 
vey students to and from foreign colleges, and the Irish 
parliament, without a dissentient voice, passed a bill declar- 
ing it lawful to found a college where the Catholic religion 
should be exclusively taught, at the same time granting a 
sum of money towards its establishment. In October 1795, 
it was opened for the reception of fifty students. The 
number now averages from four to five hundred. " A sum 
of about «£8000, subject to certain deductions, was annu- 
ally voted by the Irish, and afterwards by the Imperial 
Parliament, for its maintenance, from 1795 to 1807, when 
^5000 additional were voted for the enlargement of the 
buildings. The annual vote from 1808 to 1813 was 
£8283, and from 1813 to 1845 it was raised to £8928. 
The annual grant for the first four years was principally 
expended in erecting and furnishing the front range of the 
CoUege ; the cost of the other portions of the buildings, 
successively erected in 1808, 1815, 1824, and 1835; was 
defrayed partly from the specific grant of £5000 for that 
purpose, partly from several unconditional donations to the 
College, amounting to £6000, and partly from the accumu- 
lated savings on the entrance fees and pensions of the 
students. The total amount of donations and bequests to 
the College, including the sums funded for exhibitions, was 
£31,681, besides all the fee-simple estates of the late Lord 
Dunboyne, in the county of Meath, which now return to 
the College £460 per annum. The entrance fees and 
pensions of the students from 1813 to 1844 amounted to 



ROYAL COLLEGE OF MAYNOOTH. 219 

moie than .£84^000. The nmriber of students increased 
with the enlargement of the buildings from 50 to 250 ; 
then gradually rising to 400, it amounted in 1836 and the 
three following years, to 478 ; but between 1841 and 1845 
it fell to an average of 430 : of these 250 Tvere charged on 
the Parliamentary vote ; the others paid an annual pension 
for their maintenance. By the Act of 8 and 9 Yict. c. 25, 
the College was placed on a new footing, and permanently 
endowed for the maintenance and education of 500 students, 
and of 20 senior scholars on the Dunboyne foundation, 
which has been uniformly since that time the total number 
of students. Besides providing for the annual cost of com- 
mons, etc., for these 520 students, of allowances to the 20 
Dunboyne students, and to 250 students of the three senior 
classes, and of salaries to the president, superiors, and pro- 
fessors, the Act moreover vested in the Commissioners of 
Public Works a sum of £30,000 for erecting the buildings 
necessary to accommodate the enlarged number of students. 
No applicant can be received as a student of Maynooth 
College unless he be designed for the priesthood in Ire- 
land, be sixteen years of age, recommended by his bishop, 
and answer satisfactorily at his entrance examination."* 
The sum annually paid out of the Consolidated Fund for 
the maintenance of students, salaries of professors, etc., is 
£26,360. Of the present Koman Catholic priesthood of 
Ireland, about one-half were educated at Maynooth, the 
remainder having received their education at other col- 
leges, such as Carlow^, Tuam, etc., and at foreign univer- 
sities. By the Irish Church Act of 1869 the above annual 
payment to the College was commuted to a capital sum 
equal to fourteen years' purchase, which, with the help of 
private "bequests, will enable this institution to educate the 
same number of students as heretofore. 

Carhury, five miles south of Enfield, and close by the 
source of the river Boyne, is a place of much interest in 
ancient Irish history. The old castle, originally built by 
* Thorn's Irish Almanack. 



220 DUBLIN TO GA^LWAT. 

the family of Bermingham, one of tlie early Englisli settleis, 
and afterwards plundered and burned on several occasions, 
became the property of the Cowleys or Colleys, an English 
family who settled in Ireland in the time of Elizabeth. 
Lord Deputy Sydney knighted one of the family, and re- 
commended him to Lord Grey, his successor, as " Sir Henry 
Cowley, a knight of my own making, who, whilst he was 
young, and the ability and strength of his body served, was 
valiant, fortunate, and a good servant." By marriage con- 
nections the Cowleys assumed the name of Wellesley. 
The name had originally been Westley, or Wesley. The 
first settler in Lreland of the name was standard-bearer to 
Henry H. 

MEATH is a county containing an area of 579,899 
acres, which are almost entirely under cultivation. The 
population in 1861 was 110,373. The principal towns 
are Trim, Navan, and Kells. The two latter towns will 
be more properly introduced into another portion of the 
work, Drogheda is partly in Meath and partly in Louth. 

Trim (Darling's Hotel) is reached from Dublin (30 
miles) by the Meath Eailway from Broadstone terminus. 
The town contains no building of any note. There is, 
however, the County Court-House, a modem edifice of 
some pretension, and several chapels, hospitals, and a 
union workhouse. This historic locality abounds in ruins 
of great interest, in combination producing much picturesque 
effect, and at the southern entrance to the town stands a lofty 
Corinthian column of granite, erected in honour of the Ijron 
Duke, once a resident at Dangan, in this neighbourhood. 
The ancient castle of the De Lacys, called King John's Cas- 
tle, and considered the finest specimen of Anglo-Norman 
military architecture in Ireland, still exists in ruin, and so 
lately as 1688 it was garrisoned. The ruins, which plea- 
santly overlook the Boyne, consist of the thick walls flanked 
by no less than ten towers of various shapes. The keep 
or donjon is also in fair preservation. It rises to a height 



SECTIVE ABBEY. 221 

of nearly eighty feet ; its summit may be readied by wind- 
ing staircases, and a fine view of the other interesting ruins 
of the neighbourhood obtained. 

The site of an abbey, said to have been founded here 
by St. Patrick, and dedicated to the Virgin Mary, can stilj 
be traced, and on the same spot the picturesque Yellow 
Tower now stands, upwards of 125 feet in height — the 
most lofty remnant of Anglo-Norman architecture now 
existing in the country. Several other abbeys were founded 
at various times, as the Grey Friary ascribed to King John, 
the Dominican or Black Friary, founded by Geoffrey de 
Geneville, Lord of Meath, and in which several Parliaments 
were held, and where it was enacted (in 1446) that the 
Irish should cut their beards after the English fashion, and 
not wear yellow shirts. About two miles south of Trim ia 
Laracor, the early residence of Dean Swift and " Stella,'* 
and nearly one mile below the town, on the river Boyne, 
are the fine ruins of the monastery, founded in 1206 by 
Simon de Eochfort, Bishop of Meath, and the ancient 
cathedral of St. Peter and St. Paul, one of the earliest and 
most elegant specimens of the light pointed Gothic style in 
Ireland. 

Bective Abbey ^ half way between Trim and Navan, is a 
very perfect and picturesque ruin. The windows are en- 
tirely in the Pointed style. The body of Hugh de Lacy, 
first Lord Palatine of Meath, who was assassinated at 
Darrow Castle by an Irish soldier, was buried under one 
of the arches. His head, however, was conveyed to Dublin, 
and buried in the abbey of St. Thomas the Martyr, in the 
tomb of Eosa de Monmouth, his first wife. A fierce 
dispute having afterwards arisen between the two abbeys 
as to which should possess the remains entire, it was 
finally decided by the Pope that the body should go with 
the head, and it is supposed to have been removed to 
Dublin accordingly about a.d. 1205. 

Navan, Tara, Kells, and Dangan, wiU be more properly 
embraced ia another portion of the work. 



222 DUBLIN TO GALWAY. 

WESTMEATH contains an area of 453,468 statute 
acres, of which fully five-sixths are under cultivation. 
The total area of lakes in the county is 16,334 acres. 
The population in 1871 was 78,416. The principal town 
is Mullingar. Athlone is built on both sides of the Shannon, 

Mulling ar, the assize town, in the centre of a fine flat 
country, fifty niiles distant from the capital, with which it 
has both canal and railway communication, is naturally a 
place of some importance — its fairs for horses and cattle, 
and markets for agricultural produce, being extensive and 
much frequented. The town is situated on the river 
Foyle, about equal distance from Lough Owel and Lough 
Ennell. In 1227 the priory of St. Mary, formerly known 
by the name of " the House of God of Mullingar^^ was 
founded here by Ralph de Petyt, Bishop of Meath, for regu- 
lar canons of the orde^ of St. Augustin. The town contains, 
besides the usual buildings appropriate to a country town, 
a large barrack for infantry ; but the chief attraction is 
the neighbourhood of the lakes Ennel or Belvedere, Owel, 
and Derevaragh, where fine brown trout weighing from 3 
to 13 lbs. are abundant. Anglers are supplied with the 
necessary appliances at the Mullingar Hotel. The tourist 
may here diverge to Cavan by rail, thence to Enniskillen 
by rail ; and then again by rail to Londonderry, whence 
he can proceed to Portrush and the Giant's Causeway. 

*Multifarnham is the first station on the branch line from 
Mullingar to Longford and Cavan. The abbey, founded in 
1236 for conventual friars of the order of St. Francis, 
escaped the destruction of the '^ Dissolution," but was al- 
lowed to go to decay after the rebellion of 1641, the plans 
for which, it is said, were formed within its walls. 

Edgworthstown, in the county Longford, is the next 
station on the Sligo branch. It is a neat village, situated 
in a bleak flat country, but rendered interesting as the 
birthplace of Maria Edgeworth, and the residence of the 
Edgeworth family. 

Auburn^ more properly called Lishoy, the supposed 
* See page 31?. 



OALWAT. 223 

scene of Oliver Goldsmith's Deserted Village, is within 
this county ; but as it borders on the Shannon, we will 
refer to it in another place. It is most conveniently visited 
from Athlone. 

EOSCO!M]MON is entered at Athlone by a bridge over the 
Shannon. Of the scenery in this immediate neighbour- 
hood more particular mention will be made when treating 
of the Shannon. The county contaias an area of 607,691 
statute acres, of which nearly four-fifths are imder cultiva- 
tion. The population in 1871 was 141,246. The chief 
towns are Eoscommon, Boyle, Tulsk, and Athlone. Bal- 
linasloe, like Athlone, is in two counties, being situated on 
the Suck where it separates Eoscommon from Galway, but 
it is always considered as belonging to the latter county, 
which contains nearly seven-eighths of its population. The 
line of railway passes through about fourteen miles of the 
county of Eoscommon, when it crosses the Suck, and enters 

GALWAY. The county of Galway, in point of extent, 
is the second in the kingdom, covering an area of 1,566,354 
statute acres. 90,030 acres are covered by water ; and 
708,000 are uncultivated. It contmns 18 baronies, and 
120 parishes. The population in 1871 was 248,257. On 
the east it is bounded by Eoscommon, King's County, and 
Tipperary ; on the north by Mayo ; on the south by Clare ; 
and on the west by the wide Atlantic. It is now com- 
pletely separated into two parts by Loughs Corrib and 
Mask, and the little canal which unites them. 

BalUnasloe is noted for its great October cattle fair, one 
of the largest in the kingdom. Garbally Castle, the 
modern mansion of the Earl of Clancarty, and its beautiful 
demesne, adjoin the town, of which the Earl is proprietor ; 
and four miles distant Aughrim, the scene of the decisive 
battle between the forces of William III., under De Ginkle, 
and those of James II., commanded by St. Euth. The 
latter were totally routed, and St. Euth slain in the en- 
gagement 



224 



LIMEEICK TEOM KILLAENEY. 

LOWER SHANNON. 



RoxrrE I, 
Killamey, rail, Tralee. 
Tralee, coach, via Listowel, Tarbert. 
Tarbert, sieamer, vid Kilrusb, Foy- 

nes. 
Foynes, rail, Limerick. 



Route II. 
Killamey, rail, Tralee. 
Tralee, coach, Tarbert. 
Tarbert, by steamer, vid Kilrush, nj 
the Shannon, direct to Lim& 

RICK. 



This tour, wMch embraces tlie scenery of the Lower 
Shannon, may be conveniently accomplished in one day, 
whether taken as laid down, or by reversing it, and so 
making Limerick the starting-point, and Killamey the 
destination. Should a visit to Scattery Island and Ellkee 
be contemplated, an extra day at the least ought to be 
spent on them. The scenery, etc., of the Shannon above 
Limerick will be found described elsewhere. 

Leaving Killarney by the morning train, we have not 
much to attract our attention for the first stage. Looking 
back, the view of Macgillicuddy's Eeeks is very fine, as also 
that of the Lower Lake, though confessedly inferior to the 
first view of the Upper Lake from the Kenmare road. 

TEALEE [Hotel: Blennerhasset Arms — Bed Is. ed., 
breakfast Is. 6d., dinner 2s. 6d., private room 2s. 6d.] is a 
prosperous town, prettily situated on the banks of the small 
river Lee, with about 10,000 inhabitants, and returning 
one member to Parliament. A ship-canal tmites the town 
with its port at Blennerville, and brings up vessels of 300 
tons into a basin adjoining the town. The Franciscan 
abbey of Ardfert is only 6 miles north of this, and should 
be visited if possible. The traveller now takes the coach 
for Limerick via Listowel and Tarbert. 

TAEBEET [Hotel: Gallagher's— Bed Is. 6d., breakfast 
Is. 6d., lunch Is. 4d., dinner 2s. 6d., tea Is. 3d., private 
room 2s. 6d.], a coast-guard station and small town of little 
importance, on a bay of the Shannon called Tarbert Bay. 



RILLARNEY TO LIMERICK. 225 

It is admirably situated for commerce, but witbont an id- 
diistrial neigbbourbood to supply tbe materials for trada 
Every day a steamer from Limerick calls at tbe pier, about 
a mile from tbe town, on its way to and from Kilrush. 
From tbe latter port tbe journey to Limerick may be ac- 
complisbed eitber by steamer to Foynes, tbence by rail to 
Limerick, or by steamer all tbe way to tbat city. Tbe 
latter route occupies about four bours. Tbe following are 
tbe principal places of interest : — 

Scatiery Island, wbicb lies about one mile off tbe sbore 
near Kilrusb, and on wbicb stands one of tbe finest of tbe 
Irisb '^ round towers," 120 feet in beigbt, and tbe ruins of 
" Seven Cburcbes." " In general," says tbe intelligent 
German traveller Kobl, " wbere tbere are Seven Cburcbes 
in L?eland, some ancient saint is named as bavin g lived and 
died tbere, and as baving belonged to tbe first preacbers of 
Cbristianity in tbe country. At Scattery it is Saint 
Senanus, wbose grave is still sbewn amid one of tbe ruins, 
and wbose fame bas extended far beyond bis native isle by 
one of Moore's melodies. Tbese ancient ruins, bowever, 
h^ve many graves of a modern date, for bodies are still 
brougbt over from tbe mainland to be interred at Scattery. 
On tbe occasion of sucb a funeral, one boat serves generally 
as a bearse, and tbe mourners follow in otber boats. I saw 
many tombstones only a few years old, witb new inscrip- 
tions, from wbicb tbe gilding bad scarcely begun to fade, 
and tbeir presence upon tbe solitary and remote island bad 
a peculiar and by no means unpleasing effect. Among 
tbem were tombs of several captains of sbips, and it would 
bave been difficult to suggest a more appropriate place of 
interment for sucb men tban tbis little island cemetery, at 
tbe moutb of a great river, witb tbe wide ocean rolling in 
front. Indeed, tbere is no otber country in Europe wbere 
tbere are sucb interesting cemeteries, or sucb picturesque 
tombs, as in Ireland, partly on account of tbe abundance 
of ivy witb wbicb tbey are bung, and partly on account of 
tbe practice tbat still prevails of burying tbe dead among 



226 KILKEE. 



mins." The little island is covered wdtli pasturage. The 
seven churches can scarcely now be traced. A miserable 
shed is pointed out as the humble abode of the woman- 
hating St. Senanus, who, by Moore, is made to give utter- 
ance to the warning — 

"Oil ! haste and leave this sacred isle. 
Unholy hark, ere morning smile ; 
For on thy deck, though dark it be, 

A female form I see ; 
And I hav^e sworn this sainted sod 
Shall ne'er by woman's feet be trod." 

In his own day he might have the satisfaction of keeping 
off fair intruders, but all his expostulations, and even ana- 
themas, would but little avail in this age of curiosity and 
sight-seeing. 

Kilrush (Yandaleur Arms) is growing in importance as 
a watering-place, and from its proximity on the one hand 
to the Shannon, and on the other to the wide Atlantic, is 
likely to become a favourite place of summer residence. It 
is also the nearest town to 

Kilkee, on Moore Bay (Moore's Hotel), a delightful water- 
ing-place, with the wide expanse of the Atlantic before it, 
nine miles distant from Kilrush. From a beautifully- written 
book called " Two Weeks at Kilkee," by the accomplished 
Mary J. Knott, we extract a description of the place : — " The 
town, which commands a fine view of the bay, is built close 
to the sea, and assumes a semicircular form from the shape 
of the strand, which presents a smooth, white, sandy surface, 
of above half a mile in length, where the invalid can, 
without fatigue or interruption, enjoy the exhilarating sea 
breeze and surrounding scenery. The principal street runs 
nearly from one end of the village to the othei ; these ex- 
tend to the strand, and at every few steps afford a fine 
view of the Atlantic wave dashing into foam against the 
cliffs which circumscribe its power, and the rocks of 
Duganna, which run nearly across the bay." A very fine 
Danish fort in the vicinity is formed by a bank of earth 700 



m 

le 1 



KILLARNEY TO LIMERICK. 227 

feet m circumference, succeeded by a wide moat, inside of 
which, rises a platform. It is a common belief that this 
place is haunted, and, some time since, a ventriloquist threw 
the neighbourhood into consternation by causing sounds of 
distress and anguish apparently to proceed from the vaults. 
The cave of Kilkee is about two miles from the town. 
The better plan for visiting this cave is by oared boats, to 
be hired of the fishermen. By adopting this plan, an ex- 
tensive sea view is obtained for the whole distance. 
" Having cleared," writes M. J. Knott, " the rocks of Du- 
ganna, the great expanse of water presented a magnificent 
appearance ; the nearest point on the opposite shore was 
that of Newfoundland, 2000 miles distant. In passing 
along, the dark cliffs, the Amphitheatre, the Pufhng 
Cavern, the Flat or Diamond Eocks, in succession arrested 
our attention, and excited admiration." On the way, 
Look-Out Bay, the scene of the ship\\T?eck of the " Intrinsic," 
is passed. The arched entrance to the cave is computed 
at sixty feet in height. Numerous jutting rocks, depend- 
ing stalactites, and cone-like stalagmites, attract the notice 
as we proceed into the cave, which gradually diminishes in 
height till, at the extremity, nearly 300 feet from the en- 
trance, it is not more than thirty feet high. " The roof 
presented a beautiful variety of rich metallic tinges, from 
the copper, iron, and other mineral substances held in 
solution by the water, which kept continually dropping 
from the top, and gave increased effect to the light thrown 
in at the entrance, which formed a striking contrast with 
the darkness at the upper end." The echo produced in 
the cavern, even by the slightest soimd, is astonishing. 
Towards the upper end we are in almost total darkness, 
but on turning the boat, the light gradually breaks upon 
us, making the whole cavern shine and glisten like a fairy 
retreat. A small ship's boat can be taken all the way into 
the cave. The coast from Kilkee to the extremity of Loop 
Head is remarkable for its cliff scenery and geological for- 
mation. The rocks are the black indurated coal-measure 



228 FOTNES. 

shaleSj generally almost horizontal, the vertical cliffs being 
formed along the joints, and worn in some places into na- 
tural bridges and caverns. Near Loop Head, however, the 
beds are in some places vertical, and the whole cliff of 180 
feet in height is formed of the surface of a bed. 

Resuming our route up the Shannon, two miles above 
Tarbert, 

The Castle of Glin, adjoining the town of Glin, is passed. 
It is a noble building as viewed from the road, and on the 
summit of a mound a little way off stands a farm building 
in the castellated style. 

FOYNES, situate on the left shore, is next reached, 
where the tourist must make up his mind whether to take 
the rail or steam all the way. This place was, among 
others, proposed as the station for the American mail- 
packets ; but notwithstanding many advantages possessed 
by this and other harbours in Ireland, it was thought, on 
the whole, more desirable to select Queenstown as the 
point of departure. There is no doubt that the river 
Shannon possesses many advantages for navigation which 
have yet to be called into use. Limerick may be reached 
by railway from Foynes. The line proceeds by the an- 
cient towns of Rathkeale and Adare to Limerick, p. 230. 

Asheaton stands at the mouth of the Deel, on the left 
shore of the Shannon. Tlie name of the town is derived 
from its proximity to a waterfall, As-cead-tinne, signif}dng 
" the cascade of the hundred iires," on the river Deel, over 
which there is a good bridge. The most interesting object 
is the ruined abbey, situated on an eminence on the west 
side of the river, and founded in 1420 by James, seventh 
Earl of Desmond. It is curious to note that, in the course 
of 138 years after this event, James, i\i^ fifteenth Earl, wad 
buried within it. The abbey is in a good state of preserva- 
tion, and contains some interesting tombs. The castle was 
a stronghold of the Earls of Desmond. Sir George Carew 



KILLARNEY TO LIMERICK, 



229 



attacked it in 1574. Tlie garrison withdrew, but blew np 
the gunpowder, destroying the greater part of the edifice. 
The Franciscan monastery of Askeyton was of such conse- 
quence that a chapter of the order was held here in 1564. 

On the opposite side of the Shannon is the deep bay-like 
estuary of the river Fergus, running past Clare Castle and 

EnniSj the assize town of the county Clare. The ancient 
name for the town was Clare, as that for the county was 
Thomond, It is a town of some importance, with 8000 
inhabitants, sending one member to Parliament. The 
ruins of the Franciscan abbey, founded in 1250 by Donach 
Carbrac O'Brien, Prince of Thomond, are much admired. 

The interesting ruins of Clare Abbey, founded in 1194 
by Donald O'Brien, King of Munster, are half-way between 
Ennis and the village of Clare Castle. These may be 
visited either from Kilrush by car, or from Limerick by 
railway. 

Having reached Listowel on the foregoing route, the tourist may direct 
his course to Newcastle, a small town, having a population of about 3000, 
with a church, Roman Catholic chapel, infantry barracks, a market house, 
hotel, etc., whence he may take the railway to Limerick. Or he may pro- 
ceed i)y car from Tralee to Newcastle, passing through the village of Abbey- 
f'eale on the way. 

ELEVATION OF PRINCIPAL MOUNTAINS IN COUNTY KERRY. 

Feet 

Tomies 2413 

Stoompa ----- 2281 

Tore 1764 

Eagle's Nest - - - - 1103 





Feet. 


Carrantuohill - - - 


- 3414 


Macgillicuddy*s Reeks - 


- 3141 


Mangerton . - - 


- 2756 


Purple Mountain - 


- 2739 


Sheehey Mountain - 


- 2413 



ELEVATION OF PRINCIPAL LAKES IN COUNTY KERRY. 



Feet. 
Devil's Punch Bowl ^Mangerton) 2206 
Cummeennacopasta (Reeks) - 2156 

Erhagh 1408 

Gouragh (Reeks) - - - 1126 
Callee (Do.) - - - 1096 

Managh 1074 

Caragarry - - - - 871 
Black Lough (Gap of Dunloe) 587 



Feet 

Augur Lough (Gap of Dunloe) - 397 

Cushvalley (Do.) - - 337 

Black Lake (Do.) - - 334 

Guitane 256 

Coom-a-dhuv Lough - - 197 

Upper Lake - - - - 70 

Lower Lake - - - ^ 



230 LIMERICK. 



LIMERICK AND MIDDLE SHANNON. 

Hotels. — Crtiise's Koyal — The George— Clare — Moore's. 

Mail cars to Castleconnell and Killaloe — to Eathkeale and Newcastle— 
to Tralee via Foynes, Tarbert, and Listowel— to Bruff and KilmaUock— and 

to Pallaskenry. 

Limerick to Killarney daily by rail and car. Limerick to Kilrush, 
via Foynes, by rail and steamer once a-day. Limerick to Oalwat by 
rail, vid Ennis and Gort. 

Limerick, known as the " (7% of the Violated Treaty ^^ 
and associated with, events of much historic interest, is 
situated on the banks of the river Shannon, and consists 
of an old and new town. The ancient portions comprise 
the " Irish" and "English" towns, and the modern, con- 
taining several handsome streets, is denominated Newtown - 
Pery, after the family name of the Earl of Limerick, on 
whose property it is built. The old city was formerly 
surrounded by a massive wall, detached portions of which 
may yet be seen, and which attest its former strength and 
solidity. Limerick withstood many sieges, the most mo- 
dem of which were those of Cromwell and William the 
Third. After several ineffectual attempts to take the city, 
and after meeting with many severe repulses, William, in 
the year 1691, offered advantageous terms to the besieged, 
which were accepted by the Irish troops commanded by 
Sarsfield, Earl of Lucan, and the city was surrendered to 
General De Ginkle. The Treaty Stone, on which the 
articles of capitulation were signed, is now erected on a 
pedestal on the north end of Thomond Bridge. 

Bridges, — The English Town is built on an island, and is 
connected with Newtown-Pery by Mathew bridge (called 
after the apostle of temperance), and with Irish Town b> 




Pablisltea. Trf A i 




m^ii:m 



REPERBSCE. 

TownlFall.. 2 

City Court Mouse 2 

Rxx-Kange 3 

CaffieBTaLOuirck 4- 

Castle Barracic 

IhoinoniChapeL 6 

Custom JBJouse 

County Court Souse 

CttyGojol 9 

JtbnJcs School 10 

Linetv JBaR JL 

ConLMca^eet 12 

ArtOlery BaTTock, J3 

County GaxfZ 24- 

County MfspitaL .25 

lunatic Asylum, _Z( 

lost Office l; 

Tolice Barrack 19 

lord BLrhops Palace .?0 

Sussea ^ Sons Offuxs.. .21 

Jfunjiery ..Z2 

JFranciscan Chaspel 23 

mruse , -25 

S*^Mxry\f ChapeL :.-26 

JBresbyterujJt3l£etm^ So. 28 
JTewBarr'ach -29 



CATBEDRAL OF LIMERICK. . 231 

Baal's Bridge, a modem structure built on the site of the 
old one, which was of great antiquity, as the name in- 
dicates. Thomond Bridge connects English Town with 
the county of Clare ; and less than a quarter of a mile to 
the west stands Wellesley Bridge — probably one of the 
handsomest in Ireland — connecting the county of Clare 
with ISTewto^Ti-Pery. On this bridge a statue has been 
erected to the late Lord Fitzgibbon, who fell at the battle 
of Balaclava. There is a long line of quayage running 
uninterruptedly from the Wellesley Bridge to the lately 
erected floating docks. 

Limerick city, which in 1871 contained 39,828 in- 
habitants, returns tw^o members to Parliament. The 
assizes for the county are held here. 

Cathedral of Liraerick. — The greater part of this vener- 
able building, as it now stands, has been referred to the 
tweKth and thirteenth centuries. It is in what may be 
called the Transition style, and is rendered more heavy 
and dull in its interior by having been fitted up with pews 
and other appendages to a Protestant church, into which it 
haa been transformed. Many of the tombs will interest 
the antiquarian. The steeple, which is 120 feet high, 
affords an extensive view of the surrounding country, and 
in it there is a chime of eight bells, originally brought 
from Italy, and recently repaired by the late Earl of 
Limerick. When De Ginkle besieged the city, the Irish 
placed a large cannon on the steeple, and having appointed 
one of their best gunners to the charge of it, did great 
havoc among the enemy. 

The Castle, built in the time of Eang John, is even in 
its ruins a noble structure. Seven massive towers still 
exist, and are connected by high walls of prodigious thick- 
ness — the whole affording one of the best examples of a 
Norman stronghold to be met with in the country. The 
walls upon the side facing the river are well marked with 
the effects of shot and shell. Within the castle walls are 
a few buildings used as a barrack. 



232 LIMERICK. 

Newtown-Pery. — The better streets are all situated in 
this part of the city. George Street is a fine promenade, 
continued on the one side through Richmond Place to the 
Military Walk, and on the other along Patrick Street 
through Eutland Street to Mathew Bridge. Henry Street 
and Catherine Street run parallel with George Street, and 
all three are crossed at right angles by several others. In 
Pery Square there stands a column surmounted by a 
statue of the late Lord Monteagle, for many years M.P. for 
the city. This was erected at the expense of his father-in- 
law the Earl of Limerick. In the centre of Richmond 
Place, which consists of two handsome crescents at the 
south end of George Street, there is a bronze statue of 
Daniel O'Connell, and in one of the crescents will be ob- 
served the residence of the Jesuit Fathers — a large build- 
ing with portico in front. Turning up from Richmond 
Place, the visitor mil pass the Laurel Hill Convent and 
the Church of St. Alphonsus. 

Public Buildings, — There are several handsome and 
commodious public buildings, amongst which are the 
County and City Court-Houses, the Town-Hall, and others 
indicated on the plan. St. John's Roman Catholic Cathe- 
dral is a handsome ecclesiastical structure, built at a cost 
of about Xl 7,000, the voluntary offering of the people. 

There are several other Roman Catholic Churches and 
Charitable Institutions — such as the Christian Brothers' 
School, teaching 3000 boys, the Sisters of Mercy, and the 
Convent of the Good Shepherd, well worthy of a visit 
from those interested in philanthropic institutions. 

Manufactures. — Limerick depends in a considerable 
measure on the flax factories of Messrs. Russell and the 
army clothing factory of Mr. Tait, which give employ- 
ment to several hundreds of both sexes. The making 
of lace and gloves is also carried on extensively. By far 
the most interesting feature in Limerick, however, is the 

SHANNON, the noblest of Irish rivers, which runa 



THE SHANNON. 233 

through the countiy for a distance of 240 miles, through 
ten counties, now as a narrow stream, then a wide glassy 
lake ; now placid and calm, surrounded by rich meadows 
or luxuriant woods, and anon dashing down a rugged and 
uneven bed in mimic cataracts. Lough Allen, in the 
county of Leitrim, supplied by streams from the high and 
rugged mountains by which it is surrounded, may be con- 
sidered the source from which the Shannon rises. The 
lake is about ten miles long, and deeply imbedded in lofty 
hills, which are supposed to contain rich and copious stores 
of iron and coal. Out of Loch Allen the river flows into 
a narrow, shallow, and impeded channel ; occasionally 
widening into small lakes between the counties of Leitrim 
and Roscommon to Lanesborough, where it exjDands into 
the great Lough Eee, twenty miles long, and in some parts 
four broad. For thirty-seven miles to Portumna the 
channel is more confined ; but it is still a bold and wide 
river. From Portumna to Killaloe its course is through 
Loch Derg, the largest of the Shannon lakes. At Killaloe 
it resumes the character of an ordinary river, but the 
navigation thence to Limerick is impeded by shallows and 
rapids to such an extent, that although the total fall of the 
river, in its whole course of 240 miles, is only 174 feet, 
the fall between Limerick and Killaloe, a distance of only 
twelve miles, is 97 feet — more than half of the entire fall. 
From Limerick to its mouth the Shannon is a tideway, and 
resembles a great estuary or arm of the sea. That it is 
possible to be disappointed with the Shannon is true, 
especially if the tourist have had exaggerated accounts pre- 
sented to him of its beauty and sublimity. Even N. P. 
Willis confesses to " great disappointment in the Shannon." 
He adds, " my expectations were too highly raised. Moore's 
poem of St. Senanus (whose sacred isle is just below Tarbert) 
and Sir Aubrey de Vere's elegant sonnet,"^ give a romance 
to the Shannon, which paints it in fancy too flatteringly." 

* We need hardly offer any apology for quoting the beautiful sonnet of 

Sir Aubrey : — [Vide page 23()."l 



234 LIMERICK. 



SHORT EXCURSION FROM LIMERICK UP THE 
SHANNON. 

There is scarcely any locality in which a day can be 
more pleasantly spent by the admirer of the beauties of 
nature, than that part of the river which runs from 
Castle Connell to Limerick. The tourist, by proceeding to 
the canal, which is within ten minutes walk of any of the 
city hotels, can, at the cost of four or five shillings, hire 
one of those safe and commodious flat-bottomed boats 
called angling cots and the aid of one or two of the fisher- 
men who know every inch of the river, and delight in 
communicating to interested listeners the legendary lore 
with which the ancient waters abound. After proceeding 
for an English mile through the canal you enter on the 
Upper Shannon, and here, the prospect becomes very in- 
teresting. On before you, as far as the eye can reach, you 
have a panorama of beautifully-wooded country, while 
on your left the prospect is bounded by the mountains 
of Clare, and on the right by the turret-crowned hill 
of the Newcastle race-course. Paddling onward for an- 
other mile you arrive at Plassey, the seat of Richard Eus- 
seU, Esq., and passing under the Ennis railway bridge, 
which here crosses the river, you come to the rapids called 
Hickey's Falls, where you may see boats carried down 
with rapidity yet with perfect safety when guided by 
a skilful hand. Glancing towards your right you behold 
the venerable ruins of Castle Troy, the ancient walls of 
which rise to a great height from a foundation which 
seems to have been sunk in the river's bed. You next 
reach the demesne of the late and last Earl of Clare, 
Mountshannon, which reaches for more than a mile along 
the right bank of the river, and which unfolds its varied 
beauties as you proceed. The Falls of Doonass next pre- 
sent themselves (see page 245). On the left is Doonass 
House, the ancient seat of Sir Hugh Dillon Massey, Bart, 



THE SHANNON. 235 

and on the riglit, Hermitage, the residence of Lord Massey 
The view here is very fine. A little further on and yon 
arrive at the village of Castle Connell (see page 243). Be- 
sides the attractions of the spa, the village is much 
frequented in the angling season by salmon-fishers. 

SHORT EXCURSION FROM LIMERICK DOW.V THE 
SHANNON. 

Although the steamers direct from Limerick to Kilrush, 
48 miles, have been lately bought ofi" by the Eailway 
Company, it is to be hoped that they will soon be started 
again ; and therefore we shall describe that part of the 
river above Foynes formerly traversed by the steamer. 
The village of Foynes, w^hich is situated about midway be- 
tween Limerick and Kilrush, is reached by rail, and there 
passengers are embarked on board a steamer in connection 
with the train, and carried across to Kilrush. Although 
this route is more expeditious, it is less enjoyable than the 
former one, as much of the river scenery is lost thereby. 
By starting from the quays of Limerick you pass many 
beautiful demesnes. On the left, or county Limerick 
side, the residence of the Eight Honourable Colonel Mon- 
sell, M.P., at the extremity of whose property stands the 
venerable ruin of Carrig o'Gunnel, anglice, the Rock of the 
Candle. From the summit of this rocky eminence there 
is a magnificent prospect, commanding the river, with its 
numerous islands, and the surrounding country for many 
miles. Further on, the seat of the Wallers of Castletown, and 
Bushy Island — on which a private lunatic asylum has been 
established by Dr. Peppard — Scarlet Tower and Beigh 
Castle, are prominent objects in the middle of the river ; 
the former seven miles and the latter eighteen from the 
city. They are erected to warn mariners to keep a civil 
distance from the rocks upon which they stand. On the 
Clare side, nearly opposite Mr. Monsell's residence, are the 
extensive woods of Cratloe covering the mountain's side ; 



236 LIMERICK. 

also tlie castles of Cratloe, and further on tliat of Bunratty, 
still habitable, and at present used by the constabulary as a 
barrack. 

Passengers going by rail to Kilrusb via Foynes, come 
first to Patrick's Well. Three miles further on to Adare, 
a neat little village adjoining Adare Manor the seat of 
the Earl of Dimraven. This residence contains much 
which is worthy of a visit. There is a very complete pic- 
ture gallery, whilst the demesne is studded with monastic 
ruins of much antiquarian interest. The next station on 
the line is Eathkeale, and then Askeaton, famous for the 
ruins of its abbey. You next arrive at Foynes (see page 
215), the residence (at Mount Trenchard) of the late Lord 
Monteagle. Here passengers for Kilrush and Kilkee 
(page 213) take the steamer. 



' River of billows I to whose mighty heart 

The tide wave rushes of the Atlantic Sea— 

River of quiet depths I by cultured lea, 
Romantic wood or city's crowded mart — 
River of old poetic founts I that start 

From their lone mountain cradles, wild and free, 

Nursed with the fawns, lull'd by the woodlark's glee. 
And cushat's hymeneal song apart I — 

River of chieftains, whose baronial halls, 
Like veteran warders watch each wave-worn steep, 

Portumna's towers. Bun ratty 's regal waUs, 
Carrick's stern rock, the Geraldine's grey keep — 

Eiver of dark mementoes— must I close 

Xy lips with Limerick's wrongs— with Anghrim's woes ? 



237 



EXCURSION TO THE BURREN OF GLARE 
AND THE CLIFFS OF MOHER. 

The northern part of the county of Clare is out of the 
ordinary traveller's route, but it is well worthy of a visit. 
That part of it which forms the Barony of Burren is per- 
haps one of the most singular districts in the British 
Islands, and particularly interesting to the geologist. 

The coast of Clare is everywhere picturesque. A drive 
of 1 8 miles due west from Ennis takes the traveller across 
a dreary country to !Miltown Malbay, two miles beyond 
which is the Atlantic Hotel, a large rambling house on 
the shore of a small bay, where good accommodation is to 
be procured in the summer. 

About 8 miles north of that, at the head of Liscannor 
Bay, is the little village of Lehinch, much frequented 
during the summer as a sea-bathing place by the inhabi- 
tants of the neighbourhood. The little tovm. of Ennis- 
timon is about 2 miles in the interior from Lehinch. 

Eight miles north of Ennistimon, among some wild 
barren hills, is the rising spa of Lisdoonvarna, where there 
are two good hotels. One or two little brooks have worn 
their way down through the hard, black, coal-measuie 
shales to the surface of the limestone below, and formed 
some picturesque little dells, in one of which are two spa 
wells, one a chalybeate and the other a sulphur spring. 
These have also a local celebrity, and are a good deal fre- 
quented in the summer. The country about is dreary 
enough, consisting of heathery moorlands of a height of 
400 or 500 feet above the sea, rising in one part, called 
Slieve Elva, to 1080 feet. 

About 6 or 7 miles to the westward of Ennistimon and 
Lisdoonvarna, however, is the promontory of Hags Head, 
the central part of which exhibits some of the grandest 
cliffs in Ireland. These are the well known Cliffs of 
Moher, which extend for two or three miles in length, and 
rise at one part to a height of 668 feet above the sea as an 



238 LIMEKICK TO THE BURR EN OF CLARE. 

absolutely vertical wall. By the liberality of Mr. O'Brien 
of Birchfield House some of the most commanding sjDots 
for a view have been walled and fenced, so that the visitor 
may lean over them in security and look down upon the 
waves 650 feet below him. 

One or two projecting crags rise haK way up from the 
water, forming the roosting-place of innumerable sea birds, 
the flocks of which seem like swarms of bees as one looks 
down on them. 

About a mile north of the highest point a narrow wind- 
ing path gives access in fine weather to the foot of this 
huge wall ; and it is difficult to say which is the nobler 
prospect, the one looking up to the great pile of horizontal 
beds thus eaten into by the waves of the Atlantic, or the 
one from the summit over so many miles of its level 
waters, with the Isles of Arran spread like a map midway 
between the spectator and the distant mountains of Conne- 
mara. 

From Lisdoonvaima a drive of about 10 miles reaches 
the village of Ballyvaglian on the shores of Galway Bay, 
where some accommodation may be got at a small hotel 
kept by Mr. MacNamara, who has two sitting and three or 
four bedrooms. Should it be preferred, a drive of 16 or 
17 miles wdll take the visitor along the shores of the At- 
lantic from Lisdoonvarna round Blackhead to Ballyvaghan. 

From Ballyvaghan it is 14 miles to Corrofin, which is 
8 miles from Ennis ; while it is about 12 miles from 
Ballyvaghan to Kinvarra, which is six miles from Gort, or 
about 12 from Oranmore on the Dublin and Galway Rail- 
way, i 

A " hooker" also plies across Galway Bay, from Bally- | 
vaghan to Galway^ every other day ; and, when wind and 
weather are favourable, makes the passage in a couple of 
hours. 

To the north of Lisdoonvarna the ground rises gradually in 
till it attains a height of from 800 to 1000 feet above the I 
8ta, and It is composed entirely of bare limestone rock of! 



LIMERICK TO THE BURREN OF CLARE. 239 

a pale grey colour. This is the carboniferous limestone of 
geologists ; the beds rise very gently from beneath the 
coal-measure shales which make so large a part of the 
county of Clare, and end in steep slopes looking down 
upon Galway Bay. Black Head, forming one of these 
slopes, is 1040 feet high. Deep valleys penetrate this 
high limestone ground, both from Galway Bay ou the 
north, and from the low country on the east, towards 
which a line of lofty cliffs looks down, like those on the 
north, and extending in a wavy line from near Kinvarra 
to near Corrofin. Glen Columbkile is the most remarkable 
of these valleys on the east side of the Burren high land. 
What makes these valleys so remarkable is the barrenness 
of the limestone rocks which surround them. They look 
like vast artificial amphitheatres, rising in regular steps 
and terraces of stone, receding here and advancing there, 
till the long parallel lines of stratification fade away in 
the blue haze of the distance. The isolated hills are like 
great fortifications surrounded by regular bastions and 
walls rising one above another, till each terminates in a 
small citadel crowning the summit of the hill. The light 
grey of the nearer hiUs fades into purple in the distance ; 
and should a stray sunbeam strike through the clouds on 
some remoter promontory, it gleams out like a marble 
building, with all the effect of some magnificent architec- 
ture. 

Even on the plateaus of the hill summits, or the flats of 
the lower grounds, the strangeness of the scenery is not 
destroyed ; for the horizontal beds are traversed in several 
directions by sets of parallel vertical joints, which have 
been widened by the weather into open fissures often 
several inches, and sometimes a foot or two, in T\idth, and 
several feet deep. These are lined with the most splendid 
ferns and other plants ; the delicate maiden-hair fern being 
found here as well as on the Arran Islands, together with 
scv^eral other species of plants very rarely to be met with 
in other parts of the British Islands. 



240 LIMERICK TO GALWAY. 

There are few districts in Ireland where the geologist 
will derive more pleasure than in strolling along the lime- 
stone cliffs of Clare. The undermining action of the sea 
on the calcareous beds is beautifully exemplified in the 
numerous caverns which wiR be found more particularly 
around Loop Head. 

" During gales of wind," says the late Mr. Jukes, " vast volumes of 
water are poured suddenly into these narrow caverns, and rolling on, com- 
press the air at their further end Into every joint and pore of the rock 
above; and then, as suddenly receding, suck both air and water back 
again with such force, as sometimes to loosen some part of the roof. 
Working in this way the sea gradually forms a passage for itself to the sur- 
face above ; and if that be not too lofty, forms a * blow-hole,' through which 
the spouts of foam and spray are occasionally ejected high into the air. 

*' On a late visit to the promontory of Loop Head I was shown consider- 
able blocks of rock that had been blown into the air on the formation of one 
of these puffing-holes ; and also large holes were pointed out that opened 
down into cavernous gullies that lead from one cove to another, behind 
bold headlands, showing the commencement of the process by which he«id- 
lands are converted into islands." 



KOUTE FROM LIMERICK to GALWAY, through 
ENNIS AJifD GORT. 

[By Rail vid Athenry Junction.] 

The railroad crosses the river Shannon a little above 
Limerick, and enters the County Clare, through which at 
least one-half of our route lies. Before long we skirt on 
the right the woods of Gratloe, interesting as a portion of 
the extensive natural forests which formerly existed in 
this district. 



ifiNNlb. 241 

Bunratiy Castle, now a police station, was the feudal 
seat of the De Clares in the thirteenth century, and subse- 
quently of the Lords of Thomond. A modern mansion is 
situated in the neighbouring demesne. 

Newmarket-on-Fergu8, the next station on the route, is 
a small village, with several seats in the \dcinity. One of 
these is Carrigoran House, the mansion of Sir Edward 
Fitzgerald, Bart. Proceeding northward, we pass Dromo- 
land House, the beautiful modern mansion of Lord 
Inchiquin. 

The fine ruin of Quin Abbey is little more than three 
miles east from Dromoland. "It is romantic, and presents 
a good portrait of monastic times, with some sombre clois- 
ters, private passages, ruined chapels, ancient monuments, 
and sainted statues." 

Clare Castle is an insignificant town, well situated on 
the river Fergus. Mr. Inglis justly remarks that this, in- 
stead of Ennis, ought to have been the county town. The 
castle is now used as a barrack. 

Clare Alhey lies on the way to Ennis. It was founded 
in 1195 by Donald O'Brien, King of Limerick, for Augus- 
tinian canons regular. 

Ennis, formerly called Clanroad, is the assize town 
Here anciently resided the O'Briens, Chiefs of Thomond. 
" The holder of this chiefry having, in the reign of Henry 
VIIL, laid down his title of O'Brien, and received that of 
Earl of Thomond, his indignant followers and liege-men 
set his dwelling on fire, and would have burned himself 
in the flames, but for the interference of MacClanchy, the 
chief-justice of the native Irish" in North Munster." Though 
by no means a fine town, there are some good buildings in 
Ennis. The parish church, formed out of the ruins of a 
Franciscan abbey founded in 1240, the Roman Catholic 
chapel, the court-house, a nuimery, and several meeting- 
houses, are the principal. In the immediate vicinity 
is a college or school, on the foundation of Erasmus 
SmitL 



242- LIMEKICK TO GALWAT. 

Leaving Ennis we pass on our left the ruins of Drom- 
cliffe, consisting of a portion of a round tower, and a dila- 
pidated cliurcli ; and on our right Inchicronan Lough, on 
the margin of which are situated the ruins of an abbey 
founded in the twelfth century by King Donald O'Brien. 
Further on is Crusheen village ; soon after we cross the 
boundary of the County Clare, and enter Gal way. After 
passing Loughcooter Castle, now the seat of Lord Gough, 
we arrive at the town of 

Govt J a small thriving town, with a workhouse, barrack, 
several places of worship, and two small hotels. 

Kilmacduagh (3 miles S.W. of Gort) is celebrated on 
account of its round tower and " seven churches ;" though 
very little of the oratories remain. The tower leans con- 
siderably — so much, it is said, as 17|- feet. 

Kilcolgan, on a deep inlet of Galway Bay, has the ruins 
of a castle. Tyrone House, the seat of .Christopher St. 
George, Esq., is a prominent object in the neighbourhood. 

Athenry, where we join the Midland Great-Western 
Kailway, is an interesting old town, once surrounded by 
walls, now in ruins. 

Proceeding westwards, we soon pass Oranmore Station, 
and reach Galway (p. 263). 



_E! 



243 



LIMERICK TO ATHLOXE, 

BY THE MIDDLE SHANNON. 

Railroad to Killaloe, thence per -water or caT. 

This route, however agreeable, is more for the pedestrian, or the traTellei 

who does not grudge car and boat hire. 

Lough Dearg ; Palace of Kincora ; Deny Castle. Inis Cealtra, or Holy Island ; 
5eren Churches ; Round Tower ; Tombs ; .S^. Patrick's Purgatory ; Castle 
Lough ; Carra Kennedy ; Drumineer ; Williamstown ; Ferryglass Ruins ; 
Monastery of Tirdaglass ; Portumna ; Castle in Ruins; Leave Lougl? 
Dearg ; Banagher ; Swivel Bridge ; Garry Castle ; Grand Canal. Clon* 
macnoise ; Seven Churches; Cathedral; Temple Ri; Temple Connor; 
Two Round Towers ; St. Kiaran's Oratory ; Sculptured Cross ; 
Charmed Stone. Athlone ; Castle; Barrack; Railway Bridge. 

We have designated that portion of the river lying be- 
tween Limerick and Athlone the Middle Shannon, though 
it is more frequently styled Upper. Our reason is obvious ; 
we wish to embrace hereafter that interesting section of 
the river lying above Athlone, and to which we may more 
justly apply the title of Upper Shannon. The generally 
recognised route between Limerick and Athlone is by 
railroad to Killaloe, and from thence by water. To such 
as desire to visit the celebrated Falls of Doonass, near 
Castle Connell, it might be suggested to leave the railway 
here, where a by-road branches off, and proceed the rest of 
the journey on foot, reaching Killaloe in the evening, 
where the tourist will find a moderate inn. The walk will 
not much exceed ten miles. 

A branch line from the Limerick and Waterford rail- 
road, connecting the former city with Nenagh and Eoscrea, 
will take us in half an hour to 

CASTLE CORNELL (The Shannon Hotel) owes it^ 
name and interest to an old castle of the O'Briens, kings 
of Munster, erected at a very early period. The extensive 
ruins are still conspicuous on the top of a Iiigh and solitary 
rock above the river. The grandson of Brian Boroimhe 



244 LIMERICK TO ATHLONK. 

having invited the Prince of Thomond to this castle, wan 
surprised by the army of the latter, artfully concealed be- 
side the river, and his eyes being put out, was afterwards 
murdered by order of his cruel guest. The Eed Earl of 
Ulster, Eichard de Burgho, afterwards held the castle. In 
1688 it held out for King James, but was taken after a 
siege of two days. The Prince of Hesse commanded the 
attack. Like most other castles which fell into the Hano- 
verian hands at the period, it was blown up with gun- 
powder. Huge masses of stone and lime disfigure the face 
of the rock, and attest the force of the explosion. There 
is a fine chalybeate spa in the vicinity of the village, which 
is much frequented by the citizens of Limerick, both to 
drink the waters of the spa, and on Sundays and holidays 
to enjoy the beauties of the scenery. " After spending a 
day in its neighbourhood," says Inglis, " I began to enter- 
tain serious doubts whether even Killarney itself sur- 
passed in beauty the scenery around Castle Connell." The 
water is said to be highly ferruginous and saline. 

O'Brien's Bridge is a very ancient bridge, which crosses 
the Shannon a short distance from Castle Connell, though, 
from the numerous alterations and repairs which have taken 
place on it, very little of the original structure can now be 
standing. In 1556, it was in a great measure destroyed 
by the Earl of Ormond ; and the subsequent repairs have 
nearly obliterated aU claims to greater antiquity. It bears, 
however, so much of the venerable in its aspect, that we 
might almost fancy it the identical bridge on which so 
many bloody encounters have taken place. We have now 
crossed the Shannon, and entered the county Clare,* and 
continue our walk or drive without passing anything of 
Etirring interest, until we arrive at 

* The county Clare covers an area of 827,994 statute acres. 18,655 acres 
are occupied by lakes, 259,684 by mountain and bog, and the remainder la 
under cultivation. The population in 1861 was 166,305, It sends three 
members to Parliament, being two for the county, and one for Ennis, the 
assize town. The islands of Arran, lying across the mouth of Gal way Baj. 
belong to Clure, 



THE PALLS OR RAPIDS OP D00NAS8. 245 

THE FALLS OR RAPIDS OF DOONASS, situated 
in a luxuriant wood, the rocks and distant meadows being 
rich in colouring. The Shannon is here, for more than a 
quarter of a mile, almost a cataract ; and this to an Eng- 
lish eye must be particularly striking. " It is only in the 
streams and rivnlets of England that rapids are found ; the 
larger rivers generally glide smoothly on, without impedi- 
ment from rocks. The Thames, Trent, Mersey, and Severn, 
when they lose the character of streams and became rivers, 
hold a noiseless course ; but the Shannon, larger than all 
the four, here pours an immense body of water — which 
above the rapids is 40 feet deep, and 300 yards wide — 
through and above a congregation of huge rocks, which ex- 
tend nearly half a mile, and offers not only an unusual 
scene, but a spectacle approaching much nearer the sub- 
Lime than any moderate-sized stream can offer, even in its 
highest cascade." N. R Willis, after pointing out a few of 
the American features of the Shannon, says, "There is no 
point very strikingly picturesque, however, till we reach 
the ruined castle* of the Kings of Mimster, the warlike 
O'Briens, and here the Shannon for a considerable distance 
resembles the rapids of St. LaT\Tence." To one who h?ii 
been accustomed to look on the imbroken surfaces of such 
rivers as the " muddy Thames," the Clyde, Tay, or Forth, 
nothing can be more perplexing at first sight than a river, 
mighty as any in Britain, rolling and tumbling in wild 
confusion over a series of rugged, rude, and waterworn 
rocks. " At the Rapids of Dooxass, as they are called," 
adds Willis, " the whole body of the Shannon pours over 
a mass of rocks, descending considerably for half a mile, 
and into this picture comes the town of Castle Connell, 
with its fine mansions, green lawns, and lofty towers, which 
adds much to the natural beauty of the river." 

KILLALOE [Royal Hotel], though a favourite angling 
station, is an iminteresting town, the cathedral of which 

* Castle Connell. 



246 UMEBICK TO ATHLONE. 

is its chief attiactioiL The present cathedral, built in the 
form of a cross, with a heavy donjon-like tower in the 
centre, is referred to the twelfth century. The tomb of 
O'Brien, erroneously so called, is a Norman arch, with 
cheyron ornaments, originally a doorway, but subsequently 
built up. The remainder of the building is undoubtedly 
belonging to the Grothic period. St. Molua's Church, an 
adjoining edifice, was venerable at the time of the erection 
of the cathedral The town, which contains a good ion, is 
dependent on the fisheries and slate quarries in the neigh- 
bourhood. The quantity of slates annually raised is said 
to average about a million tons. A curious old bridge of 
twelve arches crosses the Shannon, forming a beautiful 
object in the landscape looking down the river from the 
piet. From Killaloe a boat may be had, and a pleasant 
day's excursion made up the river to 

LOUGH DEEG, the largest lake *In the whole course of 
the Shannon, twenty- three miles long, and varying from 
two to six in breadth. The depth is considerable ; close 
to the shore there is mostly from ten to fifteen feet water, 
sometimes as much as forty feet, and in mid channel the 
average depth of the lake is from seventy to eighty feet 
The lough contains many islands which serve to diversify 
its surface, but still leaving many scenes of unbroken sea- 
like expanse. " At its lower extremity, and indeed during 
a large part of its course, it is bordered by magnificent 
mountains ; and those in the vicinity of Killaloe, before 
the lake opens into its greater width, constitute, with the 
waters they shelter and enclose, one of the grandest and 
most beautiful views in Ireland. There is nothing in the 
Lower Shannon in any way comparable to this scene, which 
of itself will well repay the traveller for any circuitous - 
ness in the journey he may make to see it, and compensate 
for any tameness which may greet him in his subsequent 
course."* Having passed the moimd where of yore stood 
* Forbes' *' Memorandnms in IrelaDdL" 



IXIS CEALTRA, 



247 



Brian Boroimhe's palace of Kincora, we soon notice on a 
little island on the right the mined castle of Derry peep- 
ing over the trees. 

Derry Castle has little, besides the picturesque effect pro- 
duced by its position, to recommend it. 

Inis Cealtra, or Holy Island, is next passed- This island, 
which occupies about thirty acres, was the home of St. 
Camin, who, in the beginning of the seventh century, 
founded a monastery here. There are said to be ruins of 
seven churches, the most perfect of which is ascribed to 
Brian Boroimhe, who is believed to have rebuilt the edifices 
destroyed by the Danes in 834. The island contains a 
round tower, and an ancient cemetery, some of the tombs 
in which much resemble those of the chiefs on the island 
of lona. The Irish have a tradition that the entrance to 
purgatory was from an island situated in Lough Derg in 
Donegal, which is not to be confounded with this Shannon 
lake of the same name. 

The country, for the remainder of the sail to Portumna^ 
is eminently beautiful, and rendered interesting by the 
remains of Castle Lough, Garra Kennedy, and Druniineer — 
the latter a stronghold of the O'Briens — and other objects 
of attraction. There is a station at Drumineer, and here 
the Shannon is at its widest, being thirteen miles across to 
Scariff. From this point we have a view of the De\Ti'3 Bit 
moimtain, so called from the curious notch in its outline. 

It is said that this was done by the devil, who bit a piece off the moun- 
tain, but finding the morsel too hard for his digestion, threw it up at Cashel 
inTipperary, where it is known as the **Rock of Cashel." It is also as- 
serted that the Rock of Cashel would just fit into the space bitten by the 
de\'iL 

WilUamstowii is the next station. It is much frequented 
by fishing parties. It is said to be without exception the 
best spot on the Shannon for angling. Pike weighing 40 
lb. are reported to have been caught, and perch are plen- 
tifuL The Shannon gradually narrows now, and the beau- 
tiful bays and indentations on its margin give variety to 



248 LIMERICK TO ATHLONB. 

every view. The ruins of Terryglass, defended by circular 
towers and watcliful loopholes, appear on the right, and 
the deserted monastery of Tirdaglass not far off. The latter 
was founded by St. Columb, and occasionally afforded rich 
spoil to the Danish plunderers. We have now left the 
mountains and the lake, whose broad swell is contracted 
into a river once more, bounded on each side by fertile 
meadows. At the outlet of the lake stand the ruins of 

Fortumna Castle, once the finest residence west of the 
Shannon, containing, in addition to a handsome furnishing, 
many valuable works of art, but accidentally destroyed by 
fire in 1826. It was the property of the Marquess of 
Clanricarde, proprietor of the town, whose fine demesne 
extends for two miles along the river. Lord Avonmore's pro- 
perty on the left is well wooded, and the mansion is curious. 

PORTIIMNA is the next station. The town, though once 
of more importance, is now a poor place ; considerable 
fairs, however, are held. For a long time the monks of 
the Cistercian abbey of Dunbrody in Wexford had a chapel 
dedicated to St. Peter and St. Paul at Portumna. " O'Mad- 
den, the dynast of the country, gave it to the Dominican 
friars, who, with the approbation of the monks oi Dunbrody, 
erected a friary here, and a church, which they dedicated 
to the Blessed Virgin and the original patron saints ; at 
tlie same time they built a steeple, and all other necessary 
ofiices. Pope Martin Y. granted a bull to confirm their 
possessions, dated 8th October 1426. The walls are still 
nearly entire, and show that the monastery of Portumna 
was by no means an ignoble structure.'^ The unlucky 
council presided over by the Earl of Strafford, convened 
for the purpose of establishing his majesty's claim to the 
forfeited estates in Connaught, held its sitting in Portumna 
Castle, and there refused the royal demands, for which 
they were sent under escort of the Sheriff to Dublin as 
prisoners. 

We have now fairly left Loch Derg, and are once more 



BANAGHER. 249 

on a river flowiDg placidly all the way to AtUone through 
a country that ia " sometimes tame, sometimes ugly, not 
seldom beautiful, but never either grand or picturesque. 
The river itself, however, may be said to be always grand 
in its display of tranquil power." A few miles above 
Portumna the Shannon was almost unnavigable, until the 
Commissioners deepened the bed of the river. In these 
operations, a number of very interesting pre-historic relics 
were brought to light. In the greatest depths, stone hat- 
chets were found, evidently indicating a very early state of 
society. In a stratum overlying this were bronze spears and 
Bwords ; a still newer deposit contained implements of iron, 
as swords and spear-heads ; and in the strata nearest the 
surface more modern implements, among which were anti- 
quated firelocks. 

Banagher has a swivel bridge, wdth six arches across the 
Shannon. Until a very recent period, a very old-fashioned 
bridge crossed the river at this point. It was probably one 
of the oldest bridges in the country. Not far from the 
town are the ruins of Garry Castle, the ancient fortress of 
the MacCoghlan family, the last representative of which 
died little more than haK a century ago. He has been 
regarded as the " last Irish Chief." 

" He was a handsome man ; gallant, eccentric, proud, satirical, hospi- 
table in the extreme, and of expensive habits. In the disdain of modem 
times, he adhered to the national customs of Ireland, and the modes of 
living practised by his ancestors. His house was ever open to strangers ; 
his tenants held their lands at will, and paid their rents according to the 
ancient fashion, partly in kind, and partly in money. The ' * Mogh " or Maw, 
— ^for this was the appellation of pre-eminence among the MacCoghlans — 
levied the fines of Mortmain when a vassal died, and became heir to the 
defunct farmer. It must be observed, however, that most commonly the 
Maw's commands, enforced by the impressive application of his horsewhip, 
instantly decided a litigated point." 

We soon pass the Grand Canal, and the meeting of the 
thi-ee counties, King's, Gal way, and Roscommon, at Shannon 
Bridge, and then a sail of a few miles discloses to the right 
the celebrated 



250 LiMERICK TO ATHLONE. 

CLONMACNOISE, with its two Eound Towers and 
Seven Cliurclies. In order to pay a visit to the spot, it 
will be necessary to continue on to Athlone, and then 
come back by the road, a distance of twelve miles, or land 
at Shannon Bridge, and walking on to Clonmacnoise, about 
four miles. The situation of the Seven Churches is even 
more desolate than that of the ruins of Glendalough. On 
a wild and dreary piece of grass land on the borders of a 
river, which here is sluggish, and anything but inviting, 
stand the time-worn relics of the age of early Christianity 
in Ireland. The site of the churches was originally called 
Bruim Tippraild, and was granted by Dermot MacCervail, 
monarch of Ireland, to St. Kiaran, who founded a seat of 
learning there in 548. 

** This foundation," writes Wills, *'was afterwards enlarged by several 
additions in diflferent periods. The piety, or pride, of kings and princes, 
added nine churches for the sepulchre of their remains, all within the same 
enclosure, and within the small space of two acres. Of these churches, one 
called Temple Ri was built by O'Molaghlin, king of Meath, and to this day 
is the burial-place of his family ; Temple-Connor, by O'Conner Dun ; another 
by O'Kelly and Macarthy More; another by MacDermot." St. Kiaran, 
dying in 549, left the work of his foundation in its infancy. The modem 
name of Clonmacnoise is derived from the Irish Cluain-Tnac-noise, signif jing 
the "retreat of the sons of nobles." **It continued long the see of the 
ancient bishopric, till the middle of the sixteentli century, Miien the bishop- 
ric was united to that of Meath, and the place reduced to the rank of a 
parish. During this long interval, it passed through various changes of 
fate, having, in common with the other ecclesiastical foundations of this 
country, suffered more or less from all the various disastrous revolutions of 
which it has been the subject almost from the beginning of its history. In 
1201 the work of dilapidation may be said to have commenced, by a sack 
which it underwent from the English leader Meiler Fitz-Henry, after which 
there was little intermission from violence, while there was anything to b^ 
preserved from the violence incidental to war in its most destructive form. 
The interval which succeeded was one in which the ancient foundations of 
the island, deprived of their use and indwellers, were abandoned to the 
slower working, but not less efficient ravage of time." 

It is impossible by description to afford an adequate idea 
of the lowly ruins, the towers, and inscribed tombs, without 
going into greater detail than our limits will permit 
There are two round towers, one commonly termed the 



C LONM ACN OiSB. 251 

" Great Tower," or " O'Ruark's Tower," wkioh has eight 
apertures at the top — the usual number being four — and is 
ninety feet in height. Near this are the remains of the 
" Great Church," or cathedral, a structure displaying several 
forms of Gothic architecture. It is now a tottering ruin. 
Not far from this is the stone on which St. Ej.aran sat, and 
on which it is believed his spirit still sits to cure the 
diseases of pilgrims to the churches. The church of St. 
Kiaran, as it is termed, is a small oratory, so small indeed 
that " a tall man could scarcely lie at length in it : a 
mason would have contracted to build its walls for a 
week's wages." The belief is, that the saint was buried 
within this little chapel, and the disgusting practice of 
digging and tearing the ground for a morsel of clay to 
dissolve in their drinks, as a " sovereign remedy against 
diseases of all sorts," is still continued among the more 
Ignorant of the neighbouring inhabitants. The western 
and northern entrances are peculiarly beautiful when con- 
trasted with the rude masses of masonry surroundiug them. 
" The northern doorway>" says Caesar Otway, ** is executed 
in blue limestone* — marble it may be called — and the 
elaborate tracery, on which the whole fancy and vagary of 
Gothic license is lavished, stands forth as sharp, fresh, and 
clean, as if but yesterday from under the chiseL Amongst 
other ornaments of this highly-finished doorway, are figures 
in alto-relievo, one evidently of a bishop giving his blessing, 
the other of an abbot, the third is much mutilated, and 
that apparently done on purpose." The same able writer, 
Lu speaking of the general appearance of the place, says — 

" Here is the largest enclosure of tombs and churches I have anywhere 
seen in Ireland ; what a mixture of old and new graves ! Modem inscrip- 
tions recording the death and virtues of sons of little men, the rude fore- 
fathers of the surrounding hamlets ; ancient inscriptions in the oldest forms 
of Irish letters, recording the deeds and hopes of kings, bishops, and abbots, 
buried a thousand years ago, lying about broken, neglected, and dishonoured 
— what would I give could I have deciphered ! I should have been glad had 
time allowed to have been permitted to transcribe them." The sculptiire»3 

* Mountain limestone, identical with Derbyshire marble. 



252 LIMERICK TO ATHLONB. 

cross which stands near the door of MacDermot's Church is, if not equal to 
that at Monasterboice, only second to it in Ireland. Hams thus remarks 
on the associations of the spot : — " Before the west and north door of Mac- 
Dermot's Church stood a large old-fashioned cross or monument, much 
injured by time, on which was an inscription in antique characters, which 
nobody that I could hear of could read. The west and north doors of this 
church, although but mean and low, are guarded about with fine wrought 
small marble pillars, curiously hewn. Another of the churches hath an 
arch of greenish marble, flat wrought and neatly hewn and polished, and 
the joints so close and even set, that the whole arch seems but one entire 
stone, as smooth as either glass or crystal. The memory of St. Kiaran is 
yet fresh and precious in the minds of the neighbouring inhabitants, inas- 
much that they make no scruple in joining his name with God's, both m 
blessing and cursing. ' God and St. Kiaran after you,' is a common impre- 
cation when they think themselves injured. In the great church was here- 
tofore preserved a piece of the bone of St. Kiaran's hands as a sacred relic. 
The 9th of September is annually observed as the patron day of this saint, 
and great numbers from all parts flock to Clonmacnoise in devotion and 
pilgrimage." 

Speaking of the sites selected by tlie pious saints of 
old for their retreats, Caesar Otway adds — " What a dreary 
place is Glendalough ! what a lonely isle is Inniscaltra ! 
what a hideous place is Patrick's Purgatory ! what a deso- 
late spot is Clonmacnoise ! From the hill of Bentullagh, 
on which we now stood, the numerous churches, the two 
round towers, the curiously overhanging bastion of O'Me- 
laghlin's Castle, all before us to the south, and rising in 
relief from the dreary sameness of the surrounding red 
bogs, presented such a picture of tottering ruins and en- 
compassing desolation as I am sure few places in Europe 
could parallel." But this appears now rather overdrawn. 

Passing the Seven Churches of Clonmacnoise on the 
right, also .leaving behind a pile of stones in the middle of 
the river marking the union of the three counties — King's, 
Westmeath, and Eoscommon — we arrive at 

ATHLONE [Hotels: The Prince of Wales. The Royal] 
This town is an important military station, and is pos- 
sessed of considerable advantages as respects river commu- 
nication, which has been greatly improved of late years. 
It is one of the few towns in Ireland that has not decreased 



ATHLONE. 253 

in population within the last decennial period. Athlon e 
is conveniently situated for a tourist's station, on both 
sides of the Shannon, and the most central town of 
importance in Ireland. Auburn and Clonmacnoise are 
best visited from it, and after exhausting the riches 
of the Vale of the Shannon, a railway ride of little 
more than two hours' duration conducts the traveller 
to Galway, the key to the west. The castle is a heavy 
building, very old, and very strong. It is still used as a 
barrack, although a newer mass of buildings beside it con- 
tains the bulk of the garrison. The barracks are capable 
of accommodating 1500 soldiers, including cavalry, infan- 
try, and artillery. There is a collection of 15,000 stand 
of arms. '^ On the corner of the castle w^all was a tower, 
founded by K^ng John, on a parcel of land belonging to 
St. Peter's Abbey. It was built on a high raised round 
hni, resembling an ancient fort or ^rath. On the side of 
the castle that faced the river there were apartments which 
served for the residence of the Lord President of Con- 
naught, and governor of the castle. The middle tower was 
for the repository of warlike provisions." For a year after 
the battle of the Boyne, the town held out for James. 
General de Ginkle at last reduced it after a siege of ten 
days, but not until he had expended 1200 cannon balls, 
50 tons of gunpowder, and 600 shells, besides a large 
quantity of stone shot. Athlone is strongly fortified and 
was always a place of importance in a military point of 
view, as guarding the pass from Leinster into Connaught, 
and on account of its central position. In order to extend 
its utility, a branch railway is now constructed from this 
town to Templemore on the Great Southern and Western 
Railway, which will place Athlone in direct communication 
with the South of Ireland. The railway bridge across the 
Shannon, erected by Mr. Hemans, is justly styled one of 
the finest and most beautiful works along the line of the 
Midland Great Western Railway. There is also a magni- 
ficent stone bridge over the Shannon, which was opened 



254 ATHIiONE TO CARRICK-ON-SHANNOIT. 

for traffic in 1844. Tlie ancient bridge, but lately taken 
down, conducted from the County Westmeath in the pro- 
vince of Leinster, to Roscommon in Connaught, a different 
country, with habits, peculiarities, and prejudices entirely 
its own. Seward, writing in 1789, says — " The counties 
are here united by a bridge, in the middle of which was 
erected a fair monument, with some figures well cut in 
marble, together with Queen Elizabeth's escutcheon of 
arms, and some inscriptions declaring the time and the 
founders of the building." The town, which contains a 
population of 6000 inhabitants, returns one member to 
Parliament. Between the station and the town will be 
seen a Roman Catholic chapel with a handsome tower. It 
was erected for the very moderate sum of £6000, exclu- 
sive of the internal fittings. 

Excursion from Athlone to Auburn, see p. 260. 

ATHLONE TO CAERICK-ON-SHANNON, 

BY THE UPPER SHANNON. 

Steamers leave Athlone for Carrick-on-Sliannon every second day. 

Lough Ree ; Inis-More ; Inis-Turk ; Hare Island ; Church Island ; Ruins ; 

Randown Castle ; Roscommon ; Abbey ; Tomb of O'Connor ; Castle ; 

Lanesborough ; Termonbarry; Royal Csmal. KilbaTTj; Seven ChurcTies; 

Lough Bodarrig ; Jamestown ; James' Heap. Carrick-on-Shannon. 

From Athlone the tourist may conveniently proceed in 
a northerly direction for Carrick-on-Shannon. It must 
not be disguised from the tourist that he has already seen 
the finest portions of the Shannon, although it would be a 
libel on the beautiful to say that there is nothing worth 
visiting on the Shannon north of Athlone. The river 
Shannon is properly described as a large estuary, resem- 
bling an arm of the sea and two extensive lakes, all joined 
by a devious river, now narrow and contracted, and anon 
widening and twisting into innumerable baylets and lake- 
lets. The estuary has already been described as a portion 
of the Lower Shannon, and Lough Derg as the principal 
feature of the Middle Shannon, and now, about a mile and 



LOUGH REE. 255 

a half after leaving Athlone, we enter tlie remaining lake, 
and through it reach an interesting portion of the river 
lying between the comities Leitrim and Eoscommon. 

LOUGH EEE, a smaller lake than Lough Derg, being 
but seventeen miles in length, and nowhere exceeding seven 
in width, is situated in three counties, Eoscommon, Long- 
ford, and Westmeath. This lake was formerly called 
" Lough Eibh," and sometimes " Great Lough Allen." 
The tourist who has time to navigate this lake in an oared 
boat will be well rewarded for his pains. He should en- 
gage a boat with rowers at Athlone, and, carrying a supply 
of provisions for the day, take the lake leisurely. The 
many promontories, bays, and creeks, will furnish an ever- 
increasing pleasure. The steamer can be joined at any 
convenient station on the lake. The hour of sailing, as 
well as the time of calling at different stations, may be 
learned from the time-tables. It might even be well to 
pull up as far as Lanesborough, and, spending the night 
in Eoscommon, take the boat next morning for Carrick- 
on-Shannon. The islands are not numerous, though some 
of them are very beautiful. Their names are Church 
Island, Inis-Clothran or Quaker Island, Inis-More, Inis- 
Turk, Hare Island, etc. On the first mentioned are some 
very old ecclesiastical ruins. So early as 751 there were 
vessels upon this lake. O'Dono van's translation of the 
Annals of the Four Masters contains the following note, 
under the year 751 : — " The ship\\Teck of Dealhhna-Nuad- 
hat on Lough Eibh, with their lord Duimasach, of which 
it said, ' Thrice nine vessels and three of Gamhawraighe of 
Lough Eibh, there escaped of them with life, except alone 
the crew of one vessel.' " From the same source we learn 
that in 1137 there was a fleet of 130 vessels upon the 
lake. Eegattas are held usually every August. 

Randovm Castle is about eight miles from Athlone, on 
the left bank of the lake. The Celtic name of this castle, 
from which the modern appellation is derived, is Rinri' 



256 ATHLONE TO CARRICK-ON-SHANNON". 

Duin^ signifying the " point of the fort." Mr. Weld thiis 
describes the castle in his survey of Eoscommon : — " The 
castle is built in the form of a P, the tail of the letter 
being short in proportion, and occupied by a spacious 
apartment for banqueting or assembly. The keep, as be- 
held both from the land side and from the lake, presents 
a very imposing mass, its outer walls being entire, and its 
great tower rising to a very considerable elevation ; but the 
edifice on the land side appears almost shapeless, owing to 
the extraordinary luxuriance of ivy with which it is over- 
run, originating from two vast platted stems which spring 
up over the base of the walls, just over the long fosse." 
The fortress was originally defended by a wall 1G92 feet 
long, carried right across the peninsula on which the castle 
stands. There is a very perfect gateway in the middle of 
this wall. The Shannon lakes are seldom or never frozen 
over. One memorable instance, however, is said to have 
occurred in 1156, in the reign of Eoderick O'Connor, 
monarch of Ireland. The Annals already referred to teD 
us that ^' There occurred a great fall of snow, and a frost, 
in the winter of this year, so that the lakes and rivers of 
Ireland were frozen over. The frost was so great that 
Roderick O'Connor was enabled to have his ships and boats 
carried on the ice from Blein Gaille to Rinn-Duin." 

ROSCOMjVION is about eight miles from the lake, on 
the left. The town has not much to recommend it, but 
the ancient monastery is well worthy of minute inspection. 
The town returned two members to the Irish Parliament, 
the patronage being in the Sandford family. 

" This place is fortified with a castle. It is the assize town for the Co. 
Roscommon, and near it are the remains of a monastery of friars preachers, 
where a monument was erected in fine Irish marble to Feidlim O'Connor, 
king of Connaught, who died in 1253 He was represented surrounded by 
bis body-guards in their ancient dresses. This monument was, with more 
than savage brutality, considerably defaced some years ago by a parcel of 
dnrnken dragoons." * " Felim, son of Cathal Crovdearg O'Connor, the de- 

» Seward, 1787. 



ROSCOMMON CaSTLE. L'D? 

fender and supporter of liis own pro^Tnce, and of his friends on every side ; 
the expeller and plunderer of his foes ; a man full of hospitality, prowess, 
and renown ; the exalter of the clerical orders and men of science ; a wor- 
thy materies of a king of Ireland, for his nobility, personal shape, heroism, 
wisdom, clemency, and truth, died after the victory of [extreme] unction 
and' penance, in the monastery of Roscommon, which he himself had 
granted to God and that order." 

The monument represents a mailed recumbent fignre 
placed upon an altar tom.b, tlie sides ornamented with 
several compartments, in each of which stands a figure 
mailed and armed. Strewed about the burial-place are 
some portions of these compartments and the figures which 
adorned them. Surely the light which such relics throw 
upon the costumes of the ancient Irish soldiery ought to 
have led to their preservation and partial restoration. 

Roscoynmon Castle was built in 1268, when the office of 
justiciary of Ireland was held by John D'UfFord. There is 
no doubt, however, that a fortress existed there long before 
his time. The space enclosed by the massive walls is ex- 
tensive. The walls are defended at intervals by large 
semicircular towers. The appearance of the place may be 
easily imagined by those familiar with the peculiar archi- 
tecture of the period. The edifice is now a total ruin, 
although it is said that portions were habitable at the 
period of the Civil TVar, when they were set on fire by a 
party retreating after the battle of Aughrim. 

Laneshorough is a little town ^\'ith a fine bridge of six 
arches and a swivel arch, situated at the upper extremity 
of Lough Eee. The place receives its name from a family 
called Lane, who settled in it in the time of Charles II. 
It formerly gave title of Viscount to a family of that name, 
and now gives title of Earl to that of Butler Danvers. 

We nov leave Lough Eee. The sail from this to Ter- 
monbarry presents little interest or even beauty. The 
country is generally a wide extent of bog, abounding in 
remains of trees and elks. Opposite Termonbarry, the 
Royal Canal joins the Shannon. By this means the pro- 
ducts of the interior were conveyed to Dublin before the 
opening of railways. 



258 ATHLONE TO CARRICK-ON-SHANNON. 

THE SEVEN CHURCHES OF KILBAERY are seen 

on passing a swelling of the river known as Lough Forbes. 
Though famous in its day as a seat of learning and piety, 
Kilbarry, like Glendalough and Clonmacnoise, has crumbled 
into ruin, and even yielded more to the spoiler than either 
of its contemporaries. The tradition is, that a church was 
erected here by St. Barry in the sixth century ; but 
whether the name Kilbarry, signifying the church of 
Barry, is the origin or result of the tradition, it is difficult 
to say. It is believed by many of the natives that a night 
passed within the walls of one of the three ruined churches 
is a certain cure for maladies, mental as well as physical. 
The friends usually light a fire, and watch the progress of 
the cure in the patient. The walls of the church are 
blackened with these fires. There exist the remains of 
only three churches and the foundation of a round tower. 
The site of the churches is in the midst of a mass of soft 
pulpy bog, in which a quantity of rubbish had been placed 
to give firmness and solidity. A road of the same material 
connects it with the solid ground beyond. Lough Forbes 
is a somewhat triangular sheet of water, surrounded by 
low, and often boggy land, but possessing no mean share 
of quiet beauty. 

Lough Boderg, or the lake of the red cow, in shape re- 
sembles the letter T, the top line being represented by the 
course of the river through it, and the perpendicular stroke 
by an arm stretching away to the west. 

Jamestown is a neat little village on the Leitrim side, 
A little way from this the forces of James 11. and William 
III. had a severe skirmish at a ford of the river. A heap 
of stones and earth, known as James' Heap, is supposed to 
cover the bodies of the slain. 

CARRICK-ON-SHANNON, so called to distinguish it 
from Carrick-on-Suir, is the termination of our sail Car- 
rick is the assize town of the County Leitrim. It was 
incorporated by Jan)es I. under provost, burgesses, and 



LIMERICK TO ADARE. 259 

freemen. There are places of worship for EpiscopalianSj 
Roman Catholics, and Wesleyan and Primitive Methodists. 
There are few features, either historical or architectural, 
worthy of notice. The county gaol is a very good build- 
ing. 

From Carrick the tourist may return by the Shannon 
or by railway to Athlone. He may make an excursion to 
Boyle by rail, and thence to Sligo, from which he can 
reach Ballina by a public car which runs twice a-day, and 
thus enter the mountainous west at the north, or proceed 
to the north via Bundoran to Ballyshannon, between Done- 
gal Bay and Lough Erne, and thence penetrate the wilds of 
the County Donegal. 



LIMERICK TO ADARE. 

By railroad from Limerick. Distance eleven miles. Or by hired car, fares 
&± per mile ; Is. per hour. 

Augustinian Abbey ; Abbey of Holy Trinity ; Franciscan Abbey ; Castle of 
the Desmonds ; Adare Castle. 

Situated about eight miles from Limerick are the ruins 
of three abbeys, and an ancient castle of the Fitz-Geralds, 
which in combination afford views of great interest. Tiiat 
presented by the Augustinian Abbey in the foreground, 
the castle of the Desmonds in mid-distance, and the Fran- 
ciscan Abbey beyond, is peculiarly effective. The ancient 
name of Adare is Aith-Duir, or " the ford of oaks." The 
Franciscan Abbey was founded by Thomas Fitz-Maurice, 
seventh Earl of Kildare, and now repaired and used as the 
parish church ; the Augustinian Abbey, founded in 1315 
by John Fitz-Thomas, first Earl of Kildare ; and the 
abbey of the Holy Trinity, which was also founded by the 
first Earl of Kildare, for the purpose of redeeming Chris- 
tian captives from slavery. The remains now consist of 
the tower, nave, and part of the choir, which the late Lord 
Dunraven fitted up fjr a Eoman Catholic chapel. 



2eiO LISHOY OR AUBURN. 

The finest of all the ruins is that of the ^.ugustinian 
Abbey, situated within the demesne of Adare Abbey, the 
seat of the Earl of Dunraven, The windows present the 
true Gothic style without any excess of decorations. The 
choir is large, and fitted with stalls ; the steeple is sup- 
ported on an arch ; there is an aisle on the south side of 
the nave. 

To the north of the steeple are some beautiful cloisters 
with Gothic windows, within which, on the three sides, 
are corridors, and on most of these windows are escutcheons, 
with the English and saltire crosses, generally ranged alter- 
nately. These cloisters are nearly entire, and the rest of 
the remains are, although roofless, in good preservation. 

The castle was built by the Fitz-Geralds, Earls of Des- 
mond, to overlook the bridge across the Eiver Maige, an 
insignificant tributary to the Shannon. It was formerly a 
place of great strength, but was destroyed in the rebellion 
of 1641. On the opposite side of the river is Adare 
Abbey, the modern mansion of the Earl of Dunraven, com- 
manding a fine view of the ruins. 



EXCURSION FROM ATHLONE TO AUBURN. 

By hired car from Athlone. Distance eight miles. Fares 6d. per mile ; la 

per hour. 
The Ruined Parsonage; The Church; "The Three Pigeons;" The Mill ; 

The Hawthorn. 

" THE DESERTED VILLAGE."— Eight miles north of 
Athlone stands the modest little village of Lishoy, now 
known by the more poetical appellation of Auburn, the 
early home of the poet Goldsmith, and the reputed scene 
of his "Deserted Village." Goldsmith was not bom at 
Lishoy, as is sometimes stated, but in Pallas, a village in 
the County Longford, his father being at the time a poor 
curate and farmer. The infancy of Oliver was however 
spent in Lishoy, and there can be no doubt the scenes of 
childhood afterwards became the sources from whence he 



THE DESERTED VILLAGE. 261 

drew the picture of " Sweet Aubum," thougli it is also true 
that the description which he gives of the Deserted Vil- 
lage is general enough in character to apply to many 
localities in England as well as Ireland- 

" Sweet Autnm ! loveliest village of the plain, 
Where health and plenty cheer'd the labouring swaia 5 
W^here smiling spring its earliest visits paid, 
And parting summer's lingering blooms delay'd. 
Dear lovely bowers of innocence and ease, 
Seats of my youth, when every sport could please ; 
How often have I loitered o'er thy green. 
Where humble happiness endear'd each scene 1 
How often have I paused on every charm 1 
The shelter'd cot, the cultivated farm ; 
The never-failing brook, the busy mill ; 
The decent church that topp'd the neighbouring hill ; 
The hawthorn bush, with seats beneath the shade, 
For talking age, and whispering lovers made." 

Many of the features of the village have disappeared, 
and others have been replaced. 

" The never-failing brook, the busy mill," 

are still to be seen, as well as the 

** Decent church that topp'd the neighbouring hflL** 

We cannot say of the " Three Pigeons/' 

" Low lies that house where nut-brown draughts inspired, 
Where grey-beard mirth, and smiling toil retired ; 
Where village statesmen talk'd with looks profound. 
And news much older than their ale went round." 

The village inn was rebuilt by Mr. Hogan. The haw- 
thorn is cut piece by piece, and sold to tourists, and pro- 
bably many a piece of thorn from far and near has been 
palmed off on the unwary enthusiast as the genuine article. 
Perhaps the most interesting of all the relics in the village 
is the ruined parsonage, where the Kev. Charles Goldsmith, 
the original of Mr. Primrose of the admired novel, the 
Vicar of Wakefield, brought up a large family upon s 
miserable pittance. 



2 612 LisHo y OR a u burn. 

** Near yonder copse, where once the garden smile-i^ 
And still where many a garden flower grows wild, 
There where a few torn shrubs the place disclose. 
The village preacher's modest mansion rose. 
A man he was to all the country dear, 
And passing rich on forty pounds a year 1 '* 

* Beautifully, it is said by Mr. Campbell, that * fiction 
in poetry is not the reverse of truth, but her soft and en- 
chajited resemblance ; and this ideal beauty of nature has 
seldom been united with so much sober fidelity as in the 
groups and scenery of the Deserted Village.' It is to be 
added, that everything in it is English, the feelings, inci- 
dents, descriptions, and illusions ; and that this considera- 
tion must save us needless trouble in seekiag to identify 
Sweet Auburn with Lishoy. It is quite natural that Irish 
enthusiasts should have found out the fence, the furze, the 
thorn, the decent church, the never-failing brook, the busy 
mill ; it was perfectly reasonable, and in the way of busi- 
ness, to rebuild the village inn, as Mr. Hogan did, and fix 
broken tea-cups in the wall, that pilgrims might not carry 
them away, and to christen his speculation Auburn. All 
this, as Sir Walter Scott has said, ^ is a pleasing tribute to 
the poet in the land of his fathers ;' but it is certainly 
no more. Such tribute as the poem itself was, its author 
offered to Sir Joshua Reynolds, dedicating it to him. * Set- 
ting interest aside,* he wrote, ' to which I never paid much 
attention, I must be indulged at present in following my 
affections. The only dedication I ever made was to my 
brother, because I loved him better than most other men. 
He is since dead. Permit me to inscribe this poem to 
you.*"* 

* life and Adventures of Oliver Goldsmith, by John Forster 



263 



GALWAY. 

Hotels.— KaUway, at tlie Station— The Hoyal. Distance from Dublin 

126i miles. Rateable value of property in the town, £15,000. 
O'Brien's Cars and Coaches.— Galway to Clifden— Galway to Spiddle. 

Steamers.— Galw ay to Cong daily (Sundays excepted). 

Lynch Castle ; Queen's College ; Claddagh ; Salt Hill ; Bay of Galway : 

Islands of Arran; Hy BrysaiL 

In the course of our former ramlDles we have visited 
many towns remarkable for their antiquity, that quite 
justifies the Milesian superlative " ould ancient ;" but 
such a town, or relict of a town, as Galway, does not exist 
elsewhere in Ireland. 

*' Its situation is flat and unpicturesque, but the universality of red 
petticoats, and the same brilliant colour in most other articles of female 
dress, give a foreign aspect to the population, which prepares you some- 
what for the completely Italian or Spanish look of most of the streets of 
the town." "In Galway," writes Kohl, " the metropolis of the west, and 
a Hesperian colony, he (the traveller) will find a quaint ana peculiar city, 
with antiquities such as he will meet with nowhere else. The old town is 
throughout of Spanish architecture, with wide gateways, broad stairs, and 
ail the fantastic ornaments calculated to carry the imagination back to 
Granada and Valencia. Then the town, with its monks, churches, and con- 
vents, has a completely Catholic air ; and the population of the adjoining 
country have preserved something of their picturesque national costume.' 

From the earliest times, and especially about the four- 
teenth century, and until a later period, extensive trade 
was carried on betwixt Spain and Ireland. Galway was 
always one of the principal ports frequented by foreigners. 
The richer merchants of the town made periodical visits to 
Spain, and returned mth Spanish luxuries and Spanish 
ideas, the result of which was, that mansions in the Span- 
ish style arose, and were filled with Spanish furniture, 
while the ladies sported in their dresses the bright colouri 



264 GALWAY. 

and light textures of Spain. It is reasonable, too, to sup- 
pose that in many instances Spanish servants, seamen, and 
even workmen, formed alliances with the natives of the soil, 
and thus the population became not only in dress but in 
blood allied to their foreign visitors. Many of the houses 
built for the merchant princes of Galway still remain, 
though in a dilapidated state, having passed into the occu- 
pation of the poorest inhabitants. Truly, " Galway was a 
famous town when its Spanish merchants were princes ; 
but their fine dwellings were at one time usurped and de- 
faced by the rabble, and little remains of the interiors to 
shew their ancient glory." It is probable that, besides the 
Spaniards, the Italians also traded with Galway, and that 
banks were instituted by Jews from Lombardy. Little 
more than fifty years ago, " the tribes of Galway " claimed 
to themselves the exclusive right of exercising certain civil 
privileges. 

One indignant writer* remarks that — 

" Those advocates of the dignity of the thirteen tribes contend that their 
ancestors have been the original inhabitants of Galway, and that by right 
of inheritance no other are entitled to derive a privilege from any grant 
made in favour of their predecessors. Allowing them to be the aborigines 
of the town, does it follow that those other names or families who since 
settled in Galway are entitled to no other privilege but that of occasional 
visitors ? " 

The Lynches have ever been the most numerous and 
important of the tribes of Galway. The name is most pro- 
bably aboriginal or Celtic, but it is alleged that in 1280 a 
person of the name from Dublin " came to Connaught, and 
married the daughter and heiress of Lord Marshal of Gal- 
way, whence all the Lynch family are descended. Some 
derive them from the town of Lintz, in Austria, where one 
of the family was governor, and defended the town against 
a powerful enemy whilst there was a blade of grass to be 
had within his reach ; and for that reason he got the trefoil 

* Signed Non-tribe in Button's Surs-ey of the County Galway. Dated 
July 1792. 



GALWAY. 265 

as his coat-of-arms, the lynx, the best-sighted creature, for 
his crest, and the motto, * Guarded by its own virtue.' " 
The town of Galway was built in the beginning of the 
fourteenth century by a colony of English, and continued 
gradually to increase. In 1442 Edmond Lynch Fitz- 
Thomas, " at his own expense," erected a bridge called 
" The West Bridge," which has since been rebuilt. In 
1462 Gorman Lynch, who held a patent to that effect, 
coined money in Galway."^ James Lynch Fitz-Stephen, 
who in 1493 held the office of mayor, " built the choir of 
St. Nicholas' Church at the west end, and put painted glass 
in the windows." This is the famous Warden of Galway, 
about whom so much has been written. The transaction 
which gave him notoriety has been often described, and as 
frequently painted. From Button's Survey of Galway 
(1824) we quote a plain and unvarnished account of the 
incident : — 

** The history of this more than Roman act of justice seems to be, that 
he sent his only son to Spain on some commercial affairs, who, returning 
with the son of his father's Spanish friend and a valuable cargo, conspired 
with the crew to murder and throw him overboard, and convert the pro- 
perty to their own use. One of the party, as providentially happens in 
most such cases, discovered the horrid transaction to the mayor. He tried 
and condemned his son to death, and appointed a day for his execution- 
It was imagined by liis relatives that, through their intercession, and the 
consideration of his being an only son, he would not proceed to put the 
sentence into execution. He told them to come to him on a certain day, 
and they should have his determination. Early on the day appointed, they 
found the son hanging out of one of the windows of his father's house. It 
was commemorated by the cross-bones in Lombard Street." The stone 
bearing the cross-bones was not put up for many years after the transaction- 
It is erected on the wail of St. Nicholas' churchyard, and bears the 
inacription : — 

1524 
Remember Death. 
All is vanity of vanities. 
It is a curious fact, that notwithstanding the maritime resources of Gal 
way, salt was one of the commodities imported to it from Spain, and so 
highly was the import prized, that John French, who was mayor in 1538, 
bore the distinguishing appellation of Shane ne Sallin. 

* These coins, of which a few examples are preserved, were " fourpence^ 
twopence, halfpence, and faithines. " 



266 ftAJLWAY. 

During the last few years much improvement has taken 
place in the erection of modern buildings in Gal way. 
Large shops have been built in the main streets, and 
several handsome residences have been erected in the sub- 
urbs, among which may be noticed Lenaboy, the seat of 
James O'Hara, Esq., and Mount Vernon, the residence of 
T. M. Persse, Esq. The town, which is admirably placed 
in a commercial point of view, in connection with the sea, 
the great lakes. Lough Corrib, and Lough Mask, etc., will 
increase in importance. 

Queen^s College is a handsome Gothic structure, built of 
grey mountain limestone. It is quadrangular in form, the 
interior quadrangle being 280 feet by 200, and has an 
elegant cupola in the centre of the chief front facing the 
town. The architect of the college was Mr. J. B. Keane, 
and it was opened for the admission of students in October 
1849. The course of instruction is much the same as at 
Cork. The pile of buildings known as Lynch's Castle is 
the finest remaining example of the Spanish-Irish struc- 
tures. The building is square and heavy-looking, the 
windows and doors, with flat tops, profusely ornamented, 
and the balustrade decorated with cannon-shaped gurgles. 
Every gateway, street, and court bear innumerable traces 
of ancient importance. The tourist visiting the town for 
the first time will concur in the remarks of Inglis : — 

" I had heard," writes he, " that I should find in Galway some traces 
of its Spanish origin, but was not prepared to find so much to remind me 
of that land of romance. At every second step I saw something to recal it 
to my recollection. I found the wide entries and broad stairs of Cadiz and 
Malaga ; the arched gateways, with the outer and inner railing, and court 
within, needing only the flower vases to emulate Seville. I found the 
sculptured gateways and grotesque architecture which carried the imagi- 
nation to the Moorish cities of Granada and Valencia. I even found the 
little sliding wicket for observation in one or two doors, reminding one of 
the secrecy, mystery, and caution observed, where gallantry and super- 
(rtition divide life between them." 

A delightful view of the harbour and spacious bay is to 
be had from various points along the Salthill road leading 
west from the town. The hiUs of Clare on the opposite 



TJijn ui^ADDAGH. 267 

side are well seen, and constitute a fine feature in tlie 
picture. In clear weather the Isles of Arran are visible. 
Various miniature headlands aiford good prospect stations. 
Black marble is quarried in the neighbourhood, and, along 
with other varieties, fashioned into articles of ornament 
and use in marble works in the town. A company has 
been recently formed and has now extensive works in 
Gal way for the purpose of extracting iodine and marine 
salts from the sea-weed which abounds on the shores of 
Galway Bay. The salmon-fishery of Galway, the property 
of the Messrs. Ashworth is of considerable value, and will 
well repay a visit during the fishing season. The rod- 
fishing on the river Corribis supposed to be the best in 
Ireland. 

Galway returns two members to Parliament, and con- 
tained in 1871 a population of 13,184. A company with 
steamships sailing regularly to and from New York was 
established here, but proved unsuccessful. 

THE CLADDAGrH is a portion of Galway situated on 
the harbour, inhabited by a hardy race of people, princi- 
pally fishermen, quite distinct from the other inhabitants 
of the town. The population of the Claddagh is stated at 
somewhat under 5000. It is said that they seldom inter- 
marry with the townspeople, whom they term "trans- 
planters," and look upon as an inferior race. They have 
their own laws, and are governed by a sort of mayor 
or monarch-elect, styled the "King of Claddagh." This 
potentate decides all litigated cases, and, by way of dis- 
tinction, has his boat decorated by a white flag. Among 
their peculiar customs is that of giving with the bride, as her 
dowry, a boat, or share of a boat, according to the means 
of the parents. The marriage-ring, also, is an heir-loom, 
passing from mother to daughter. It is massive, and often 
decorated with a heart and crown, supported by two hands. 
When out fishing, they take with them oaten cake, potatoes. 



268 GALWAY BAT. 

water, but never suffer any species of malt drink oi 
spirits to form any part of their store. Like all other 
primitive people, they have their lucky days and unlucky 
days ; and the people of Galway may starve before they 
will go to sea on a day of bad omen. "On the eve of St. 
John the election of the mayor and sheriffs is made by the 
Claddagh boys. Their mock ceremony is accompanied by 
real mirth. Fires are lighted up in various places through 
the town, round which boys and girls dance in joyous 
hilarity, armed with long-handled besoms, made of dock 
stems, with which they gently touch each passenger who 
refuses to obey the mandate of ' honour the bonfire.' The 
attendants of the mayor and sheriffs are also armed with 
like rude fasces of authority^ which in the plenitude of fun 
are ultimately set on fire, and whirled round over the 
heads of the noisy corporation." 

Salthill is a small village about two miles west of 
Galway, where a number of ornamental villas and a com- 
modious hotel have recently been erected. It is resorted 
to in the summer months as a watering-place. Omnibuses 
ply between the railway terminus at Galway and Salthill 
every half-hour. 

GALWAY BAY is undoubtedly the finest bay in L?e- 
land. In length between Kilcrogan Point and the middle 
of the North Sound, it is above thirty miles. The width 
of the mouth between Travor Bay and Hags Head is about 
twenty miles. The facilities offered by this noble bay and 
its numerous baylets and creeks for an Atlantic trade are 
abundant, and we trust that the anticipations of the " Saxon 
in Ireland" will be speedily fulfilled. 

"It is impossible," writes he, "not to foresee that the great change 
now visible on the world's surface will act favourably for the west of Ire- 
land. The spacious and safe harbours of this coast— their immediate 
proximity to the Atlantic — the large tracts of improveable land, and the 
facilities now offered for renting or purchasing at prices scarcely higher 
thsm those of Australia or Canada, must have the eff<?ct of inducing manj 



GALWAY BAY. 269 

to pause ere tliey seek in the antipodes what they can find so much better 
close to their own shores." 

The distance from Gal way to St. John's, Newfoundland, 
is only 1636 miles, to Halifax 2165, to Boston 2385, and 
to New York 2700 miles. The Bay of Galway is tolerably 
free of islands until we approach its outer extremity, wh(ire 
the romantic isles of Arran lie like barriers across its 
entrance. This is a peculiarity not presented by any otlier 
bay in the United Kingdom, and has given rise to the sup- 
position that these islands were originally a continuation 
of the coast line of Clare to Galway, and the present bay 
an inland lake ; that in the course of time a gradual sub- 
mergence of land opened out four communications with the 
Atlantic. "It is mentioned in the Ogygia that the Bay of 
Galway was anciently called Lough Liirgan. The sea 
broke through between the islands of Arran, and formed 
it into the present bay of Galway. This rests on the testi- 
mony of Mr. O'Flaherty." " A curious natural production 
occurs at Barna, that would seem to countenance this asser- 
tion of the Ogygia. Many feet, probably ten, heloio high- 
water mark, may be seen on the strand a turf bog of 
several feet in depth, in which are the stimips and roots 
of large trees, and many branches of oak and birch inter- 
mixed. On this bog there are rocks of many tons weight. 
The same phenomena occurs at the west side of the island 
of Omey, which is yqtj far advanced into the Atlantic 
Ocean. Probably few things in natui-al history are more 
worthy of scientific investigation, whichever of the follow- 
ing cases may be considered ; — Ist, The tides cannot 
formerly have risen so high on the coast as at present ; 
2dj The land must have been extended an immense dis- 
tance into the Atlantic Ocean farther than at present, to 
enable trees of such magnitude as those at the Island oi 
Omey, and at Barna even, to exist ; or the winds from the 
west must have been of a very different nature from those 
that prevail at present. It must also be recollected that 
woods must have existed to produce the bog."* In the 
* Hely Button's Survey. 



270 ARRAN ISLES. 

Annals of Galway, compiled by the author just quoted, vre 
find under the year 1588, that " one of the Spanish Armada 
was wrecked in the bay of Galway, and upwards of seventy 
of the crew perished ; and several other vessels were lost 
on the coast, and the greater part of the crews that escaped 
were massacred by order of Sir William Fitz-William, 
Lord-Deputy of Ireland, who had several beheaded near 
St. Augustine's Monastery."* 

THE ISLANDS OF AREAN are three in number, i.e., 
Arranmore, with an elevation of 354 feet ; Inishmaan, 259 
feet ; and Inisheer, 202 feet. 

Parties desirous of visiting the islands of Arran will often find a boat 
from one of tliem at Galway, and may secure a passage for a small sum. 
From Roundstone a boat may be bired, in which a party may go to Arran 
in one day and return the next. 

Arranmore or Arran Isle [Inn: The Atlantic] is the 
largest in the group. This was the isle celebrated by 
Moore in his song : — 

*' O Arranmore, loved Arranmore ! 

How oft I dream of thee, 
And of the days when by thy shore, 

I 've wander'd young and free. 
Full many a path I 've tried since then, 

Through pleasure's flowery maze, 
But ne'er could find the bliss again, 

I felt in those sweet days. 

" How blithe upon thy breezy cliflfe, 

At sunny mom I 've stood, 
With heart as bounding as the skiffs, 

That danced along thy flood ; 
Or, when the western wave grew bright., 

With daylight's parting wing, 
Have sought that Eden in its light. 

Which dreaming poets sing." 

♦ Three years before the occurrence of the event above narrated, an act 
was passed by the Mayor which may throw some light upon the state of 
society in Galway three hundred years ago. " That no woman shaU wear 
no gorgeous apparel, but as becometh them to do, according to their call- 
ing ; and in especial, they shall altogether forego the wearing of any hats or 
caps otherwise coloured than black, and upon them they shall wear no costly 
hat bands or cap bands of gold thread, the Mayoress only excepted." 



ARRAN ISLES. 271 

Beaufort, in his ancient topography of Ireland, writes — 
" The inhabitants of Arranmore are still persuaded that, in 
a clear day, they can see from this coast Hy Brysail, or 
the Enchanted Island, the paradise of the pagan Irish, 
and concerning which they relate a number of romantic 
stories." 

" That Eden, where the immortal brave 
Dwell in a land serene, — 
Whose bowers beyond the shining wave, 
At sunset oft are seen." — Moore. 

That this island of the blest has been seen is asserted 
by many, and in all probability with some truth. It is 
not at all unlikely that some sunken land may, in the 
rays of the setting sun, appear as an island. 

The islands of Arran contain a population of about 3000, 
and in area contain (Arranmore) 4607 acres, (Inishmaan) 
1338, and (Inisheer) 909. They are seldom visited by 
tourists, but would repay the time spent in exploring them. 

*' In the great island of Arran may be seen the remains of a fort, called 
Dun JEngus, so called from uEngiis of the Humarian family, who flourislied 
a little before the birth of Christ, under Mauda, Queen of Connaught. 
This island was formerly the residence of St. Ende, and afterwards of a 
multitude of anchorites and holy men. Ever since it has been called, by 
tradition of the inhabitants, the Doon of Conquovar^ the son of Huomar, 
who flourished at the same period with ^ngus." 

The ruins of the Seven Churches are small but curious ; the sculptured 
shaft of a cross and an ancient Irish inscription exist among them. About 
half a mile above the Seven Churches are the remains of a circular castle of 
stones, resembling on a small scale the ruins of Dun ^ngus. In the clefts 
of the rocks near both these ruins, the rare Adiantum Capillus Veneris and 
Asplenium marinum grow in astonishing quantities. The cliffs on the 
south-western side of Arranmore are truly magnificent, descending perpen- 
dicularly into the Atlantic, which breaks with immense violence at their 
base. They are the resort of innumerable sea fowl. The Worm Holes is a 
natural swimming-bath eighteen fathoms deep, cut in the solid rock, and 
supplied with the clearest water from the Atlantic by subterraneous 
passages. 

When at Galway the tourist may also make an agree- 
able excursion to the Burren of Clare, by train via Athenry 
to Ennis, thence by car. — See page 237. 



272 



CONNEMAKA. 




LOUGH coRRiB (westem continuation). 



THE WESTEEN HIGHLANDS 

OF 

CONNEMAEA. 

Route from Galway to Clifden and Westport. 



Miles. 



Galway. 




Balltxahiis^ch 


7 


MOYCULLEN 


74 


Clifden 


6 


OUGHTERAED . 


H 


' ' Streamstown 


2 


Butler's Lodge 


10 


Letterfrack 


5 


Half-way House . 


2 


Leenane 


8 


Recess . 


6 


Westport 


18 



Miles. 



As in that portion of the work relating to the Wicklow 
Mountains, we have here endeavoured to construct a 
plan for an excursion among the mountains of the 
west. By taking advantage of the morning car from 
Galway, the tourist will reach Clifden in the even- 



LOUGH COJRRIB. 



273 




LOUGH CORRliJ. 



274 EXCURSION FROM GALWAY. 

ing of tlie first day. He can go on next morning if 
necessary by the same conveyance to Westport, 
where he should sleep the second night. Every in- 
formation as to the starting of the cars may be ob- 
tained at the office in Galway. The fares are 7s. 6d. 
Gal way to Clifden, 49 miles, and 7s. Clifdento West- 
port, 39 miles, and in addition to which the driver 
expects a small gratuity. If six days can be spared, 
the first stage should be Kecess or Glendalough, in 
the neighbourhood of which is some fine scenery, 
especially at Loughs Inagh and Derryclare. The 
second day ^Clifden should be reached by Baliina- 
hinch ; on the third day a tour (p. 280) may be had 
from Clifden ; the fourth day may be spent in going 
to Leenane, and in an excursion from that place ; 
early on the fifth day the tourist may reach West- 
port, and spend some time in ascending Croagh Pat- 
rick (2500 feet), and boating through the hundred 
islands in Clew Bay. It is unnecessary to state that 
the tourist who can spend two weeks in the Western 
Highlands will find abundant occupation in sight- 
seeing, and even then feel that he has by no means 
exhausted the beauties of the district ; though a hur- 
ried tour of even three days will afford abundant 
satisfaction for the time and money spent on it. 
There is a steamer on Lough Corrib, plying every 
day between Galway and Cong, by which tourists 
have the means of viewing the beauties of the dis- 
trict. 



The distances as given in the above Itinerary have been carefully measured 
from the Ordnance Survey Index Maps, but must still be considered as 
only approximating to the truth. 

Hired cars in the district cost 6d. to lOd. per mile, according to thenum- 
ber forming the party, but care should be taken to make an arrangement 
with the driver before starting. 

Leaving O'Brien's Car Office in Eyre Square, we drive 



KOYGULLEN. 275 

througli one or two of tlie streets of ancient Galway, and 
soon leave the town, passing over, on the way, the Gal] ire 
river, which brings the Waters of Longh Corrib to the 
Bay of Galway. Very little of special interest occurs for 
the first stage, unless it be that we get occasional views ci 
the great Lough Corrib and glimpses of Connaught life and 
scenery, mingled mth well cultivated fields and comfort- 
able steadings and lodges here and there scattered. Among 
the latter may be noticed the plantations and house of 
Woodstock, the seat of Francis Comyn, Esq. Eed cloaks^ 
petticoats, and almost every article of female dress, enliven 
the road, especially if it be market day ; and little urchins 
af both sexes hang on by the car, and try, by means of 
a mixture of English and Irish, to effect a sale for the 
home-made socks they hold in their hands. The botanist 
should keep a look-out on the left hand side of the road, 
where he will find abundance of Cetarach offidnarum 
growing in the loose stony walL 

MOYCULLEX is not of itself of much consequence : it 
is a small village with a dispensary, school, and church. 
In the vicinity are Danesfield, the seat of George Burke, 
Esq., and Moycullen Lodge. The property in the immedi- 
ate vicinity of the ^^llage belongs to Lord Stratheden and 
Campbell. Passing by the picturesque domains of Drim- 
cong, the seat of Mr. Kilkelly, Knockbane (A. O'Flaherty), 
and Ross (K. Martin), we enter upon the extensive pro- 
perty of the late Mr. Martin of Ballynahinch, which reaches 
about forty miles along this road towards Clifden. It be- 
came the property of the London Law Life Insurance, and 
has been resold to other parties^ who have done much to 
clear the district, and consolidate the farms. 

The country to the left is now more hilly, while to the 
right it is low and flat, and affords frequent glimpses of 
Lough Corrib. Before reaching Oughterard, we pass 
Lemonfield, the seat of George F. O'Fflahertie, Esq. ; and 
a mile further is the ruined keep of the ancient seat of the 



276 EXCURSION FROM GALWAY. 

family, Aglmaniire Castle. Though the present ruiu is on 
the site of a feudal castle, the portions remaining do not 
indicate an earlier date than the sixteenth century. The 
name of the castle is derived from an Irish word Achaid- 
na-nHiuhhar, signifying the field of yews, from a quantity 
of these trees that flourished in the neighbourhood. Only 
one now remains. Of the castle, the strong square keep 
and bartizan remain, with indications of the banqueting 
room and offices, as kitchen, cellars, etc. In the thirteenth 
century the OTlahertys, being driven from their posses- 
sions on the east side of Lough Corrib by the De Burghos, 
sailed across the lake, and drove out the possessors of the 
territory there, appropriating to themselves Moycullen, 
Bunowen, and Aghnanure. The family still holds a consi- 
derable property in Connemara. Queen Elizabeth took the 
then chief into favour, and pardoned him " all murders, 
homicides, killings, etc., by him at any time heretofore 
committed." About the same time, " O'Flaherty of Gnobeg 
was murdered, with his four children, while the aged 
father, Hugh Og, was detained without meat or drink in 
his castle of Moycullen until he died by famyn." 

Oughterard^ about seventeen miles by road from Gal- 
way. Though styled a post-town, Oughterard is nothing 
more than a village. The cottage of the late Dean Kirwan, 
who first held the office of president of Queen's College, 
Galway, may attract some attention. It is prettily situated 
on the river Feogh, not far from the chapel where for 
years he officiated as parish priest. The parish church is 
a handsome building. The town contains a bridewell, and 
a barrack for two companies of infantry. A little way 
from the town, near the bridge, the river forms a series of 
pretty cascades called the Falls of Feogh. The valley is 
well planted, and the whole scene possessing more of the 
sylvan character than any other spot to be met with in our 
journey westward. Copper and lead have both been dis- 
covered in the vicinity of Oughterard. The latter mineraJ 
is being worked about two miles from the town. 



LOUGH CORRIB. 277 

Many tourists, however, prefer altering tliis route by sail* 
ing up the lake in the afternoon by steamer from Galway 
to Cong, and driving over by hired car from there to 
Maam, and on to Half-way House, where the mail car may 
be intercepted (previously writing a note to Galway to en- 
gage seats). 

LOUGH COERIB, the largest lake in the district, 
being about twenty miles in length, by from two to ten in 
width. It is fabled that a great giant, Orbsen, frequented 
the lake, and from him it received the Irish name, Lough 
Orbsen, afterwards corrupted to Lough Orib and Lough 
C'Orib. About eight miles from Galway, the lake con- 
tracts considerably, so as almost to give the idea of two 
lakes. The lower reach thus produced has very few islands 
upon it ; but the upper expanse has so many as to have 
given rise to the saying that there w^as an island for eveiy 
day in the year. Shortly after entering the lake, the cele- 
brated marble quarries of Anglisham are seen. Six miles 
from Galway, we pass on our right Rabbit Island, and on 
the land Annaghdown Castle and Abbey, both in ruins. 

Soon after passing Oughterard, we enter on a consider- 
able tract of flat moorland, interspersed with numerous 
small lakes, and guarded on the right by Maamturk and 
Benabola mountains, or Twelve Pins. On the left we pass 
Lough Bofin, a small sheet of water, and then Lough 
Ardery, after which we gain Butler's Lodge, where a road 
to the right diverges to 

Maam, distant about four and a half miles,, and to Cong 
eighteeen miles, p. 290. At this point the traveller, who 
has gone up Lough Corrib by steamer to Cong, joins the mail 
car. All the way from Cong to Butler's Lodge the views, 
as the road rises (greatest elevation 250 feet), are very fine, 
and the range of Maamturk affords magnificent landscapes. 
Some time may be agreeably spent at Maam, particularly 
if the visitor be a fisher. There is a good inn, originally 
built by Mr. Niniino, the celebrated Scotch engineer. The 



278 EXCURSION FROM GALWAY. 

view from the top of the hill which overlooks the hotel is 
of a picturesque character, and would repay the tourist 
who has leisure. The geologist will find one or two good 
fossil localities hereabout, the fossils being of the upper 
Silurian age. Returning to the Clifden road, we pass 
Lough Shindilla, on the right, and reach the 

Half-way House, where there is a plain country inn^ 
nestling among the mountains. Lough Orid and a hill on 
the left of the same name (1178 feet) are a little further 
on to the left. Kylemore may be visited from this, and 
thence Leenane and Killery, without going round by Clifden, 

The Recess Hotel, on the north-east shore of Glenda- 
lough, is situated just under the Twelve Pins. From 
here the ascent of Lisoughter (1314 feet) should be made, 
on account of the extensive views to be obtained from its 
summit, embracing mountains, hills, dales, loughs, and 
rivers. Cashel Hill (1027 feet) may also be visited from 
the Recess, but the assistance of a guide should be pro- 
cured, on account of the boggy nature of part of it. To 
the north of the Recess is the valley of Lough Inagh, 
with Lisoughter to the right, and Derryclare (one of the 
Pins, 2220 feet) on the left. The walk should be con- 
tinued up this vale, and the ascent made of Letterbrec- 
kaun, from which one of the finest views in Connemara is 
to be obtained. From the summit are visible Lough 
Inagh, Kylemore Lough — where good fishing may be had. 
Lough Fee, the Greater and Lesser Killeries, with many 
other and smaller sheets of water. The Pins are seen on 
the one side,, the Maam mountains on the other, and be- 
tween them the distant ocean. Leaving the Recess, our 
journey is resumed under the shadow of that remarkable 
group of mountains called the " Twelve Pins," and 
we shortly reach Glendalough Hotel, situated on the 
south side of the Lough Derryclare. 

This house has latterly been much frequented by 
anglers. It has the right of first-class salmon and trout 
fishing. 



THE TWELVE PIXS 279 

Glendalougli makes a very good resting-place for the 
tourist, situate as it is in the heart of the finest scenery in 
the district, besides affording every facility to the angling 
fraternity. 

THE TT^TELYE PIXS (Irish Benus) of Binabola, not 
so frequently ascended by tourists as they ought to be, yet 
for such as can undertake the task, the abundance of fine 
views they afford will amply recompense the tourist who 
has time to spare, for his trouble in making the ascent. 
The highest points are — Bencorr (2336 feet) ; Benbaun 
(2305 feet) ; Bencullaghduff (2290 feet) ; and Derrj^clare 
(2220 feet). 

Continuing our route, we observe on our left the lake 
and castle of 

Ballynahinch. This mansion stands on the southern 
extremity of the lake which bears the same name, and is 
almost completely screened with wood. The Owenmore 
river conducts the water from the lakes to the head of 
Roundstone Bay, into which they pass at Toombeola 
Bridge. Ball^mahinch was for centuries the seat of the 
Martins, a very powerful family in feudal times. It was 
a common phrase among the peasantry that " Colonel 
Martin was the best Martin that ever reigned^^ clearly 
denoting the almost regal power of the family, who pos- 
sessed about 200,000 acres of ground in this country. 
The " house stands upon the well-wooded bank of a long, 
narrow lake, and is backed by a range of dark and lofty 
mountains." The Martins no longer lord it over the dis- 
trict : even their castle was purchased with the rest of the 
property, by the Law Life Insurance Company. In order 
to reach the castle, it would be necessary to make a detour 
to the left for about three miles. Not far distant, on the 
right, are the celebrated green marble quarries. This 
marble is a finely streaked calcareous serpentine, mottled 
with various shades of green and white. It lies in beds in 
the metamorphic rocks, of which the whole country is 



280 CLIFDEN. 

made up, and is itself probably an altered magnesian lime- 
stone. Many articles of jewellery are made of it at Clif- 
den, and sold as souvenirs of the district. Westward of 
Ballynahincli Castle is the salmon-fisliery — considered one 
of the best in Ireland — at tbe mouth of the Ballynahinch 
river. It belongs to the London Law Life Insurance, who 
are also proprietors of the hotel at Glendalough. 



CLIFDEN. 

Hotels. — Mullarkey's New. 

Mail Cars.— Clifdeu to Galway via Oughterard ; Clifden to Westport. 

Hired car from Clifden to Westport via Leenane (48 Eng. miles). 

This, the end of our first day's journey, is a town 
u'hich has to thank individual exertion for its very exist- 
ence. John D'Arcy, Esq., since deceased, first pointed out 
the advantages to the country which would arise from the 
establishment of a town in such a position. He even 
*' offered leases for ever, together with four acres of moim- 
tain land, at but a short distance from the proposed site of 
the town, at twenty-five shillings per annum." The towTi 
is beautifully situated on a ridge of mountains, at the head 
of the Bay of Ardbear, and facing the wide Atlantic, of 
which a full view may be obtained from the hills in the 
neighbourhood. So late as the year 1815, Clifden had 
but one house. Twenty years later it yielded a revenue 
of about «£7000, and now it has not less than 400 houses, 
with a well-attended market and considerable export trade 
in corn. Vessels of 200 tons burthen load and unload in 
its harbour. Among other buildings it has a court-house, 
a fine union workhouse, schools, and a good hotel. There 
is a beautiful, waterfall, formed by a stream which rises 
among the Twelve Pins, within hearing of the town. The 
prison is perched upon the rocky summit of a hill over- 



CLIFDEN CASTLE. 281 

looking the town, giving, in tlie distance, tlie idea of the 
Castle of Edinburgh. 

Clifden Castle, formerly the residence of the founder of 
the town, now the seat of Mr. Eyre, is distant about two 
miLes from it, on the north side of the bay. The walk is 
by the water side all the way. " After reaching the en- 
trance of the harbour of Clifden, and rounding a promon- 
tory, the castle comes into view. It is a modern castel- 
lated house, not remarkable in itself, but in point of 
situation unrivalled. Moimtain and wood rise behind, and 
a fine sloping lawn in front reaches down to the land- 
locked bay, while to the right the eye ranges over the 
ocean until it mingles with the far and dim horizon." It 
is unfortunate that the D'Arcys, who have done so much 
to raise the condition of this portion of Connemara, should 
have been reduced by their liberality. The representative 
of the family, the Eev. Hyacinth D'Arcy, is now incum- 
bent of Omey, the parish of the town which Ins father 
founded, and the estate has j^^issed from his hands. It 
was sold under the " Encumbered Estates Act." A walk 
of 15 minutes from the hotel will take the AT.sitor to 
Croughanard Hill (420 feet), from which the best view of 
Clifden and surrounding mountaias is obtained, especially 
in the morning. 

Refreshed by a night's repose in Clifden, we are in a 
position either to return by the morning car to Galway, 
or to proceed through the northern districts of Connemara 
to Westport, by public car."^ Assuming that we decide 
upon the latter course, turn off in a northerly direction 
through a country wild and desolate, save where here and 
there some English or Scotch settler has pitched his tent 
with the 'laudable ambition of converting a wilderness into 
a garden. Though bleak and unproductive, the country is 
is by no means uninviting. All along the route, hills 
rise, if not majestically, at least they attain suf&cient alti- 
tude to justify the application of the term " Highlands " to 
the district ; and now and then, peeping in through the 

* F:r minor excursiops in the Co-nnemara district, see page 294. 



2S2 LETTERFRACK. 

rugged barriers, is tlie Atlantic Ocean, washing a coast 
wliich, for the number of its bays and islands, is unsur- 
passed by any other in Ireland, or perhaps in the United 
Kingdom. From the elevated parts of the road, Cleggan 
Point is a conspicuous object. 

The botanist, especially if from England or Scotland, 
will be pleased to know that he may, for the first time in 
his life, see the Menziesia pollfolia, a heath-like plant con- 
fined to this district, growing in wild luxuriance. It occurs 
in every hedge and ditch from Clifden to Westport. The 
roads are remarkably good, indeed much better than in 
many parts of England.* 

Passing Streamstown^ of itself of little note, we soon 
reach a place of great interest in connection with the 
reclamation of waste land. 

LETTERFKACK, a place claiming special notice, not 
on account of what nature has done for it, but for the great 
example here exhibited of the good which may be effected 
by individual enterprise and resolution, when aided by 
sufficient capital. Mr. ElliSj'^a member of the Society of 
Friends, with a spirit becoming the name of his fraternity, 
persevered in his improvements, until that which was a 
wilderness has become a garden, and men and children, 
rude and unlettered, have received an amount of enlighten 
ment and comfort altogether unknown before in the district. 
Such a scene, though it may want the wild sublimity of 
the original desert, addresses itself to our better feelings, 
and raises a higher sense of enjoyment than can the most 

* Few tilings attract a stranger's notice in Ireland more than the excel- 
lence of the roads, even in the wilds of Kerry and Connaught, and that 
without any apparent repairs. The highway once constructed "seems, like 
the old Via Appia, to defy the operations of time and traveL I soon dis- 
covered the cause of this phenomenon. There is little or no tear and wear 
on the Irish roads. A few Saxon tourists, in the summer or autumn, with 
their jaunting-cars, and a few larefooted natives at other times, are not 
calculated much to cut up the roads. You may often travel ten, fifteen, or 
twenty miles in Ireland, without meeting a single cart, carriage, or car i 
No wonder the highways are excellent there 1 " — Dr. J. Johnston. 

t Now succeeded by Mr. Hall. 



KYLEMORE LAKE. 28B 

magnificent aspects of inanimate nature. Tlie Rev. J. D. 
Smith, in his Connemara Fast and Present, says, " Letter- 
frack a few years ago was a barren rock ; it is now a crown 
of beauty. It was a region of haggard looks and walking 
skeletons ; it is now animated by a well-looking, a well-fed, 
and a well-paid peasantry." There is also a little inn 
termed an " hotel," which, however, will be found very 
comfortable to the unfastidious. On the Lough will be 
observed a handsome modern castellated edifice, Kylemore 
Castle, the property of Mr. Mitchell Henry of Manchester. 
The gardens and greenhouses are worthy of attention, con- 
sidering the recent condition of the ground on w^hich they 
have been raised ; and great praise is due to the enterpris- 
ing proprietor for his efforts in reclaiming the surrounding 
bog-land. What was at one time said of the roads in 
Scotland, might apply here to the general character of the 
country — 

" If you'd seen these roads before they were made 
You'd have held up your hands and blessed General Wade." 

Lough Pollacappul, a small sheet of w^ater, is passed 
before we reach 

KYLEMORE LAKE, nearly two miles in length, round 
the northern side of which we drive. The scenery sur- 
rounding this little lake, w^hich fills up the whole space 
between two parallel ranges of lofty, precipitous mountains, 
not more than half a mile apart, is the most romantic and 
beautiful in the west of L?eland. To the south of it tower 
the rough brotherhood of Benebeola, the Twelve Pins ; 
on the north rises Garraun (1973 feet) ; and on the east is 
Maamturk. The Pass of Kylemore is altogether about 
three miles in length and walled on both sides with preci- 
pitous rocks, affording root-hold in their interstices to a few 
trees and shrubs. A very interesting tour may be made 
from Kylemore by Lough Fee across the Killery, and by 
Delphi to Leenane, a distance of about nineteen miles. 

Proceeding towards Leenane the geologist should halt for a moment at 
Blackwater Bridge. He will there see the conglomerates and saudstonofi 



284 THE KILLERY. 

of the upper silurian formation resting upon the mica schist, and be able to 
procure some fossils, orthis reversa and others, which shew the sandstones in 
which they lie to be of the same age as the Llandovery sandstone of Wales. 
It is right to observe here that the geologist will find much interesting work 
in the Leenane district. He should not omit observing the remarkable 
Silurian conglomerates on the south side of Killery Bay, among which he 
will find some boulders of syenite two or three feet in diameter, and as 
smooth and round as billiard-balls. 



Leenane (Killery Bay Hotel) is situated on tlie soutli side of 

THE KILLERY, a wildly-bounded arm of the sea, 
running np full ten miles inland, and not mucLi more than 
half a mile in breadth, resembling a long narrow lake, or. 
according to some, having all the appearance of a Norwe- 
gian fiord. The bay or inlet is destitute of timber, and 
therefore the resemblance to a fiord must be very remote 
in one essential ; but the hills, or rather rocky mountains 
which wall it in, bear such a wild aspect, as to force us 
into the belief that we have abandoned the United King 
dom. Possessing all the rudeness and but little of the 
softness of the Upper Lake of Killarney, with what appears 
to be an endless extension, the Eallery is well calculated to 
impress the visitor with awe. 

Should the hasty glance obtained in the drive from 
Clifden to Westport create a thirst for a fuller enjoyment 
of the scene, and a more enlarged acquaintance with its 
varied beauties, it would be well to jDut up at M'Keon's 
Leenane Hotel, situate on the Bay, where a boat can be 
hired, and a truly pleasant and profitable day's sailing and 
sea-fishing may be obtained. Grouse and hare shooting 
can also be arranged for on inquiry. Delphi aud Salrock 
may be visited from here, see page 295, and a very plea- 
sant day's excursion may be made across the mountains to 
Lough Nafoory (2 miles long), a beautiful lake embosomed 
in the hills, and containing? abundance of fish. 



COUNTY MAYO. 285 

The botanist will also find this a very rich district in 
ferns, and half-a-day's stroll will enalole him to pick up 
several valuable specimens. 

We are now in the centre of what is commonly termed 
Joyce's Country, a district comprehending the north of the 
county Galway, and including in its area Killery, part of 
Lough Corrib, Lough Mask, and the group of Maamturk 
Mountains. Much has been written about the Joyces, and 
many marvels of their stateliness and strength are on 
record. The first Joyce came to Ireland in the reign of 
Edward I., and acquired extensive property in Yarcon- 
naught, and from him are descended the Joyces of this 
country, of whose size and strength many instances are 
mentioned. Llr. Inglis describes them as a magnificent 
race of men, the biggest, stoutest, and tallest he had seen 
in Ireland, eclipsing even the peasantry of the Tyrol. 
Maam is conveniently visited from Leenane Hotel. Bound- 
ing the head of the Killery, we enter the 

COUNTY MAYO, a little way from Delphi Lodge, which 
will be more particularly noticed hereafter. The county 
Mayo is one-half surrounded by coast-line, which is deeply 
indented with bays, the most important of which are Clew 
Bay, Blacksod Bay, and Broad Haven. From Galway it is 
separated by the Killery, and from Sligo by Killala Bay. 
Its area is stated as 1,363,882 acres, about 600,000 of 
which are uncultivated. The chief lakes are Lough Conn, 
Lough Cullin, Lough Carrowmore, and part of Lough 
Mask. Several islands guard the western coast, including 
Achill, Clare, Inishturk, and Inishbofin. 

Some tourists are inclined to look upon the drive from 
Tieenane to Westport as " more interesting than that from 
Clifden to Leenane ;'' the chief attraction is the scenery of 
the valley of the Erive. Mr. Otway thus alludes to it : — 
" We proceeded in the evening to Westport, going along 
the valley through which the Owen Erive river runs, and 
falling over many pretty cascades, feeds the head of the 
bay. The road is well laid out, is in excellent order, and 



28^6 WESTPORT. 

presents, I think, a succession of as fine mountain views as 
are in Ireland. Here, dark and deep gorges — there, a bold, 
bare bulwark of a hill presenting his huge shoulder — now, 
a long, deep, quiet glen, with its green sides covered with 
flocks, and bleating lambs seeking their dams along the 
precipices and ravines, giving a pastoral character to the 
landscape." We now leave the mountains, and the re- 
mainder of the road is uninteresting ; but if the tourist 
happen to pass this way, as is most likely, on a summer 
evening, when the atmosphere contains much mist, he will 
be charmed by the effect of the hills when seen in the 
distance, perhaps more than when actually passing under 
them. Croagh Patrick, a bold hill 2510 feet in height, 
on the south side of Clew Bay, is a conspicuous object on 
the way. 

WESTPORT. 

Hotels. — The Kailway — The Connemara. 

Cars. — ^Westport to Clifden; to Acliill and Dugort via Newport ; to Athenry 

via Tuam. 

On entering Westport, we descend a long steep street to 
the river side, passing on our way a tall, ungraceful monu- 
ment, inscribed with the name of George Glendinning, 
formerly a banker in the towii. The two principal streets 
run parallel on either side of the. stream, which, before 
entering the town, passes through the adjoining demesne 
of the Marquis of Sligo. There are two good hotels. Dr. J. 
Johnston — a rather severe critic by the way — -thus describes 
his first impressions of the town : — " In Westport," he 
writes, " I observed symptoms of the national character — 
an itch for greatness amid nothingness. Here is a hotel 
that would do credit to Sackville Street, with an avenue 
of trees before the door, and a beautiful purling stream 
running in front of the hotel, calculated to lull the traveller 
to repose after a journey through Connemara. Here the 
wharfs and warehouses are on a scale quite large enough 
for Dublin, or Ireland itself ! The town has certainly an 



CROAGH PATRICK. 287 

air of neatness and cleanliness superior to that of tlie gene- 
raKty of towns of the same size in Ireland." There is a 
parish church situated in the Marquis of Sligo's demesne, 
a handsome Roman Catholic chapel, and also a Presbyterian 
and a Methodist meeting-house in the town. From the 
upper part of the town are magnificent views of the moun- 
tains in the neighbourhood, and the spacious Clew Bay 
with its numerous islands. 

Tourists may visit without restriction the beautiful 
demesne of the Marquis of Sligo. It is well planted and 
intersected mth walks. From the further extremity of it 
is obtained a fine view of Westport Bay, situated at the 
south-east comer of the more majestic Clew Bay. In the 
event of Westport being made head-quarters for a day or 
two, several places of considerable interest in the \dcinity 
may be visited, and especially 

Croagh Patrick (2510 feet) about four miles from "West- 
port, and although, as a hill, its rise is rather abrupt, the 
ascent is by no means difficult. Its magnificent peak ia 
the conspicuous feature of all the views in the neighbour- 
hood, and it is also celebrated as a place of religious pil- 
grimage. Its sides and summit at certain seasons are 
climbed by devotees from all parts of Ireland, who " per- 
form stations" as they ascend. The ruins of Murrisk Abbey 
are situate near the base of the hill on the shore. The \dew 
from the summit is both extensive and highly beautiful. 
A chief feature in it is 

Cleiu Bay, one of the wonders of Ireland. It is almost 
R parallelogram in shape, with Newport at its north-east 
corner, and Westport at its south-east. At the entrance 
is Clare Island, which covers about 4000 acres, and rises 
at one point to an elevation of 1520 feet. The bay is 
about twenty miles long by eight or ten wide, and is, 
round its northern and eastern sides, completely sprinkled 
with multitudes of islands, some beautifully wooded, but 
mostly bare, sharp rock-pieces, with an occasional though 
stinted vegetation of heath, lichen, or dry grass. 



25fi CLARE ISLAND. 

Clare Island, situated at the entrance of the bay, waa 
the ancient residence of Grana Uile, or Grace O'Malley, 
already referred to in this work. She was daughter of a 
powerful chief, at whose death she became leader of the 
clan on sea as well as land, and eventually gained, in con- 
sequence of her piratical exploits, the title of " Grace of 
the Heroes." She was first married to O'Flaherty, prince 
of Connemara, and on his decease was united to Sir Kichard 
Bourke, an Englishman who had adopted the name of 
M^ William Eight er. " Tradition hands down a singular 
item of the marriage- contract. The marriage was to last 
for certain but one year, and if at the end of that period 
either said to the other, * I dismiss you,' the union was 
dissolved. 

" It is said that during that year Grana took good care to put her own 
creatures into garrison in all M'William's eastward castles that were valu- 
able to her, and then one fine day, as the Lord of Mayo was coming up to 
the castle of Corrig-a-Howly, near Newport, Grana spied him, and cried 
out the dissolving words, * I dismiss you.' We are not told how M' William 
took the snapping of the matrimonial chain. It is likely that he was not 
sorry to have a safe riddance of such a virago."* Grace was in\ited to 
London hy Queen Elizabeth, who tried various ways of shewing her atten- 
tions ; but the wild daughter of the west could not appreciate the kindness 
of her entertainer. 

On the west side of the island is the Hill of Knock- 
more (1520 feet), from which is obtained a magnificent 
view of the bay and coast generally, including the islands 
to the north and south, and the various bays and head- 
lands. The island is most conveniently visited from 
Achill Sound. 

It is difficult to lay down any definite route in this dis- 
trict of country by which the traveller will be enabled to 
see every place of interest, without making numerous 
divergences. We therefore prefer now to take the tourist 
back to Galway by the old stage-road via the Triangle and 
Lough Mask, and which some may still desire to travel by 
private car. 

* Otway. 



LOUGH MASK. 2h9 

The Triangle is the name given to a spot where roads 
branch off at acute angles on either side of the main road, 
one for Joyce's country to the right, and that on the left 
for Castlebar. Passing Hazelrock Lodge, Killavalley, and 
crossing the river which joins Lough Nagaltia on the left, 
to Loughnacorralea on the right, we reach Clonee, where 
another road on the right conducts to Joyce's country, by 
the west side of Lough Mask. On this road is Toorma- 
keady, the seat of the Bishop of Tuam. 

liOUGH MASK, lying in a direction almost due north 
and south, is about ten miles in length, and little more 
than four in width. There are upwards of twenty islands 
on the lake, the largest being Inishmaan, situated on the 
south-east comer. On this island are the remains of a fort, 
ascribed to the redoubtable Eoghan Beul, who in the sixth 
century was king of Connaught. This potentate was killed 
at Sligo in 537, in battle with the people of Ulster, having 
previously ordered his body to be buried in an erect posi- 
tion, " facing Ulster," with a " javelin in his hand, that 
even in death he might affright his enemies." The posi- 
tion of the body seemed to act as a charm upon ihe people 
of Connaught, who subsequently won every battle, until 
the " Clanna Neill and people of the north of L?eland re- 
solved to come with a numerous host to Raith o'bh Fiach- 
rach, and raise the body of Eoghan from the grave, and 
carry his remains northwards across the river Sligo. This 
was done, and the body was buried at the other side at 
Aenagh Locha Gile, with the mouth down, that it might 
not be the means of causing them to fly before the Conna- 
cians." The remains of a small but beautiful abbey also 
exist on the island. The ruins of Mask Castle, a fortress 
of the English family of Burkes, are on the shore opposite 
the island. Two considerable inlets occur on the western 
side of the lake. The peninsula between is tolerably 
wooded. The western shore of Lough Mask is bounded 
by bills, one of which, Farmnanure, rises to an elevation 
u 



290 CONO. 

of 2218 feet. The eastern shore, however, is level, and 
partially cultivated. 

On an island not far from Ballinrobe, are the ruins of 
a castle of the O'Connors, known as Hag's Castle, or Caislan 
na Caillighe, It is surrounded with a circular enclosure, 
and the island on which it stands is said to be artificial. 
It appears that in 1586 Sir Eichard Bingham destroyed 
the fortress. . 

Continuing the drive, we cross a small river which 
unites Lough Cloon and Lough Mask, and a little way 
further on reach Kilkeeran, a place of no importance, save 
as an index of the way. The scenery on the road now 
becomes interesting, the waters of Lough Mask coming 
frequently into the picture. A river joining Loughs Carra 
and Mask is crossed on the way. 

Ballinrohe (Yalkenburgh's Hotel. Mail car to Clare- 
morris via Hollymount) is situated on the Eobe, one of 
the feeders of Lough Mask, about two miles from its 
junction with that lake. It is a market town, with several 
places of worship, and the union workhouse, but with very 
little trade. 

The Neale, the ruinous mansion of the Lords Kilmaine, 
is passed on the left before entering the village of the same 
name. On leaving the village, a road on the right leads 
to Cono^, distant about three miles. 



CONG. 

Bukke's Hotel. Steamer from Galway. 

Cong is situated on an isthmus dividing the lakes Corrib 
and Mask ; on the western end of it is Eosshill, the domain 
of the Earl of Leitrim. It was intended to connect the 
two loughs by means of a navigable canal, and the works 
were fairly comimenced some years ago, but have not been 
completed. The sound of the subterranean river between 
the two lakes is at some of the neighbouring caves distinctly 



THE ABBEY OF CONG-. 291 

heard. In the High Street of this town the tourist will 
see a curious old cross with an inscription in Erse. The 
abhey of Cong still bears testimony to the ancient splen- 
dour which excited the jealousy of the wife of Eichard 
Bourke."^ It was originally founded in the seventh century, 
but the portions now remaining are not of an earlier date 
than the twelfth or thirteenth. The architecture is 
principally in the Decorated Norman style. The entrance 
gateway is peculiarly beautiful. The late Sir B. L, 
Guinness, M.P. for Dublin, assisted in restoring the old 
abbey to its original condition with the same princely 
liberality that induced him to render a similar ser^dce to 
St. Patrick's Cathedral in Dublin. Here, after various 
defeats, retired the discomfited monarch, Roderick O'Conor, 
the last Irish monarch. In the monastery he is said to 
have lived for a period of fifteen years, and in it we are 
told his ashes are deposited. Even after a lapse of fully 
six centuries, the memory of the warrior king is green in 
the minds of the people. 

" Far dearer the grave or the prison, 
Illuiiimed by one patriot name, 
Than the trophies of all who have risen 
On liberty's ruins to fame." — Moore. 

^' The Cross of Cong," now in the museum of the Royal 
Irish Academy, Dublin, has a world-\^ide celebrity as a 
magnificent work of art. The cross is of silver, richly 

* ** The monks of Cong were banished in consequence of the following 
circumstance :— The proprietor of the place, who was named Richard 
Bourke, and his wife, being in\ited to dine at the monastery one day, the 
lady, on seeing that the ingenious friars had their nets and fishing-rods so 
contrived, that through a chink in the wall, the end of the rod ,and lino 
passed from the river outside to the table at which they dined, and that on 
the end of the rod was placed a small bell which rung whenever the bait 
was taken or the net was struck by a fish in the river, became so cove- 
tous of the place and the other beauties and useful contrivances belonging 
to it, that she vowed she would be possessed of it, and never ceased tiU 
sne got her husband to yield to her entreaties, and banish the whole 
fraternity. They were said to be 700 in number when banished.'' — Hibemoi 
lUusiraia. 



292 



CJONG. 



chased and washed with gold. In days gone by it waa 
not allowed to leave the parish, but so poor had the church 
become, that the Koman Catholic clergyman sold it to 
Professor M^Cullagh, in order to raise funds for the repair 
of his chapel. The cross is a " most interesting memorial 
of the period preceding the English invasion, and shews a 
very high state of art in the country at the time when it 
was made, which was early in the twelfth century, in the 
reign of Therdelach Ua Conchovar (or Turlogh 0' Conor), 
father of Koderick. This date is supplied by the Gaelic 
inscriptions, extremely clear and well cut, which cover the 
silver edges of the cross, and which, besides giving the 
names of the king and of a contemporary dignitary of the 
church, preserve that of the artist himself, who was an 
Irishman. A Latin inscription informs us that it contains 
a precious relic — a portion of the wood of the * true cross ;* 
and this circumstance will account for the veneration in 
which it has been held for ages." " The cross is studded 
' full of precious stones,' or rather imitations of them, dis- 
posed at regular distances along the edges, and elsewhere. 
The central crystal is surmounted by an elegant ornament 
in gold ; and all the rest of the cross, both before and 
behind, is richly adorned with an interwoven tracery of 
that peculiar kind which the Irish were so fond of. ^ The 
tracery is of solid gold (since found to be only gold washed) ; 
the inscribed edging is of silver, and both are separated 
from the wooden frame by plates of copper;' the whole 
being held together by nails, of which the heads are little 
heads of animals. The shaft also terminates below, in the 
double head of an animal, which is large and very finely 
executed." Sir Arthur Guinness' demense of Ashford is 
close to the town, and may be traversed in our way to 

The Pigeon-Hole, about a mile from Cong, a remark- 
able cavern, in which a portion of the subterranean stream 
which carries the surplus waters of Lough Mask into Lough 
Corrib is seen. It is, as might be anticipated, a deep, 
dark unearthly looking cavern, but with the assistance oi 



THE PIGEON-HOLE. ^93 

a guide, is easily entered, and is sure to repay tlie time 
spent in visiting it."^ A legend states tliat a pair of sacred 
trout inhabit the pooL Dr. Ball thus records an incident 
which occurred on the occasion of his visit : — 

"Desirous of testing the superstitions of the country people then 
present, and at the same time awaking the echoes of the cavern, I pro- 
posed firing a pistol at the trout. On presenting it, they turned away 
their heads, and at the moment I was about to pull the trigger, a small 
cloud obscured the sun, and I lost sight of the fish ; nothing daunted, I 
fired, and the sun shone forth at once again, and displayed the trout un- 
scathed. I have no doubt the accidental occurrence of this momentary 
obscuration has tended to confirm the country people in their belief." 

The geologist who stops a day or two at Cong will be able to collect 
many upper Silurian fossils at Boocann and other places in the country to 
the west of it — some, such as the Trochus multitorquatus^ being almost 
peculiar to the district. On the north side of the Kilbride promontory in 
Lough Mask, corals, apparently of Wenlock age, and other fossils, are in 
great abundance in the rocks along shore near the end of tiie promontory. 
Its loftier hills are formed of porphyries. 

Our southward route lies by the cross roads near the 
north-east corner of Lough Corrib, past Honndwood 
House, Glencorrib Lodge, under Kilroe Hill (228 feet), 
and Moyne Castle and Church, both in ruins, over the 
Owenduff river and past the picturesque ruin of Koss Abbey to 

Headford, in the vicinity of which is the mansion of the 
proprietor, Kichard J. M. St. George, Esq. The town is 
cleanly, and has several places of worship. The boundary 
line between Mayo and Galway has again been crossed, 
and we entered the latter county about two miles north of 
Headford. Little of special interest occurs until, about 
three miles from Clare-Galway, we pass Cregg Castle, the 
seat of Francis Blake, Esq., and birth-place of Dean Kir- 
wan and his brother Kichard, well known as a chemist and 
mineralogist. 

The Ahhey of Clare-Galway, founded for Franciscans in 
1290, though seldom visited, affords a rich treat to those 
having a taste for the relics of former times. The ruins, 
which are in fair preservation, stand on the banks of a 
little stream — the river Clare — ^which conveys the surplus 
* Red and blue lights should be fired. 



294 EXCURSIONS OK THE CONNEMARA ROUTE. 

water from Turlouglunore Lough to Lougb. Corrib. The 
square tower of the church, which had evidently been 
added to the original structure, is still very perfect. The 
tracery of the windows is in a measure destroyed, but even 
now bears evidence to its former beauty. It would, indeed, 
be difficult to find a prettier combiuation for a picture than 
that presented by the abbey, as seen from the opposite side 
of the river, and so happily chosen by W. H. Bartlett, Esq. : 
in the foreground, the limpid stream, ruffled by the minia- 
ture cataract at hand ; the dark bridge which spans it, with 
the strong square keep of the old castle on the opposite 
side ; and beyond, the ruined church with its Gothic win- 
dows and ivy-mantled tower. 



MmoE excuesio:ns 



GEEAT CONNEMAEA EOUTE. 

1. FROM GLENDALOUGH a very pleasant excursion 
of 10 miles to Eoundstone may be made by proceeding in 
the direction of Ballinahinch Castle, formerly the mansion 
of the old feudal family of Martin, the late owner of which 
was well known for his efforts to suppress cruelty to animals. 
On an island in the lake stand the ruins of " Dick Martin's 
Prison." From thence the route lies southward to Eound- 
stone, on the eastern slope of a hill called Urris Beg (987 
feet), from which is to be had a magnificent view, embrac- 
ing the Twelve Pins, the Maamturk Mountains, the hills 
of Clare, Slyne Head, Bunowen Castle, the distant moun- 
tains of Achill, and lakes innumerable. 

Eoundstone, which contains a good small inn, is a con^ 
venient port for a visit to the Islands of Arran, If 



EXCURSIONS ON THE CONNEMARA ROUTE. 295 

going on to Clifden, tlie route lies along the coast, passing 
Emly Bridge, Ballykineely, Manning Bay, and Ball in a- 
boy. 

Between Galway and Roundstone the rock is all granite, very often a 
beautiful variety of the stone, on account of the large crystals of pink feld- 
spar scattered through it. 

2. FEOM LEENANE. This excursion is about six 
miles. From Leenane a boat should be taken across the 
Eallery to Delphi Lodge, a shooting-box belonging to the 
Hon. Mr. Plunket, romantically placed at the foot of Doo 
Lough, about two miles in length, and rendered singularly 
picturesque by the mountains which surround it. The 
sides of the hill as they rise from the little lake, and as 
the ranges of rock ascend, assume a tortuous and wavy 
form, and between each wave of the uprising stratification 
is the fresh green grass alternately with the grey, tinting 
the whole sides of the mountain. In returning, the 
Killery may again be crossed to Leenane, or the route may 
be extended so as to embrace the following one ; — 

3. FROM KYLEMORE HOTEL TO DELPHI, about 
16 miles. This route lies through Glen Fee, from which 
is to be had a fine view of the Pins, past Loughs Fee and 
Muck to the pass of Salrock, the charms of which have 
only to be seen to be acknowledged. The beautiful de- 
mesne of the late General Thomson is a pleasing and strik- 
ing object in the landscape. Six miles from Salrock we 
reach the ferry on the Killery, which we cross to Delphi 



296 



ROUTE FROM WESTPORT to GALWAY, by 
CASTLEBAR and TUAM. 

There are two ways of reaching Gal way from "Westport— either "by cai 
, all the way via Hollymount to Tuam, thence per rail, or (and this is the 
most expeditious way) by rail to Claremorris, thence per coach to Tuam, 
and on by rail to Gal way. For hours, etc., see time-tables. 



Miles, 



Miles. 



Westport. 


Balla. Round tower (Z) 




Slieve Bohaun (r) 


Ballyglass 


11 


22 


Knockmore (l) 


May of the Saxans (2 m 


I) 




Castlebar Lough 


Newbrook (r) 






Raheens House 


Bloomfield House (?) 






Castlebar . . . . 11 1} 


Hollymount House (?) 






Turlough 


Clooncormick (r) 






Salem Lough (r) 


Hollymount . 


n 


29i 


Rocklands House (l) 
Kilboyne House (r) 
Fisherhill (l) 
Hawthorn Lodge (I) 


ROUNDFORT 

Bushfield (I) 
Mount Jennings (?) 


If 


31 




Annefield (r) 






Ballintober Abbey (2 m. r) 


Blindwell (r) 






Ballycarra 


Castlegrove (r) 






Lough Carra (r) 

Ruins of Castle Bourke (r) 


TuAM : thence per rail 
Cathedrals 
Turloughmore (r) 


14 


45 


Castle Carra (r) 
Ballinafad (I) 






Brown Hall (I) 


Athenry .... 


151 


60| 


AttavaUey (?) 


Galway .... 


13 


73| 



The roate from Westport to Galway, via Ballinrobe, 
Headford, and Clare-Galway, has already been described. 
That now under notice can be pursued with equal facilities 
as regards conveyances, and is interesting as opening up 
another portion of Connaught. 

Leaving Westport for Castlebar, by rail, we pass throij. 
a considerable extent of semi-reclaimed land, which is in^e 
esting only to agriculturists. The mountain scenery, h)T 
ever, relieves the otherwise monotonous drive. The peai ( 
Croagh Patrick is well seen from the train, while forward 
on the right is Slieve Bohaun (1294 feet), the point of ih 
Slieve Partry Mountains, and on the left Kjiockmore (1231 
feet). A few small loughs also occur on the way, and ; 



CASTLEBA«. 297 

little distance past tlie half-way house we pass one of the 
arms of Castlebar Lough, almost opposite Raheens House, 
the seat of Hugh J. H. Browne, Esq. 

CASTLEBAR \Hotd : Gibbon's] is a quiet place with 
about 4000 inhabitants. It is the county town of Mayo, 
and has several public buildings in the square. The prin- 
cipal proprietor is the Earl of Lucan, whose seat, the Lawn^ 
and model farming establishment, are worthy of a visit. 
The suburbs of the to^\Ti are very wretched. 

Lq. the rebellion of 1798, Castlebar gained notoriety 
from an engagement between a small French force under 
General Humbert and a party of English soldiers under 
Generals Lake and Hutchison. The contending parties 
were nearly equal in number, being about a thousand 
strong each. The English were but badly provided with 
ammunition, and, with the exception of a party of the 
Eraser fencibles, were raw militia. The encounter is yet 
facetiously spoken of as the " Castlebar Races." Colonel 
Eraser erected a slab in the church to the memory of those 
of his men who felL The iascription is as follows : — 

Erected to the Memory of 

James Beaty 

Angus M 'Donald, 

George Munro, 

Donald Urquhart, 

William Ross, 

and 

Dugald Cameron, 

Privates of the Fraser Highlanders, who were killed in aotioxi 

at Castlebar with the French Invaders, on the 27th 

August 1798, as a small tribute to their gallant 

conduct and honourable death, 

by 

Colonel Simon Fraser, 

of Lovat, 

who commanded the detachment of the regiment on that day. 

In Castlebar was executed, in 1786, the notorions 
George Robert Fitzgerald, better known as " fighting Fitz- 
gerald-" His residence was at Turlough, about fo«r miles 



S98 WESTPORT TO GALWAT. 

east of Castlebar, where his remains rest among some ruing 
in the demesne, overlooked by an ancient round tower. 
From Castlebar the railway proceeds to Claremorris (where 
a coach leaves for Tuam), Athlone, and Dublin. 

Continuing by car, we pass Salem Lough and the de- 
mesnes of Rockland House ; Kilboyne House, the seat of 
Sir Samuel O'Malley, Bart. ; Fisherhill ; and Hawthorn 
Lodge. About five miles from Castlebar, and two west of 
the road, are the ruins of 

Ballintoher Alley ^ now a mere wreck. ^^ The roof of the 
chancel is curious, its groinings springing not from pillars, 
but from consoles in the side- walls, highly ornamented 
with sculpture." The lofty tower, long since fallen, was 
supported by an arch 45 feet in height. 

The next station on the route is the small village of 
Bally carra, on the right of which is Carra Lough, with the 
ruins of Castle Bourke and Castle Carra on the northern 
extremity of it. On the left are Ballinafad, Mark Blake, 
Esq. ; Browne Hall, James A. Browne, Esq. ; Attavalley, the 
seat of Sir Robert Ljaich Blosse, Bart. ; and the village of 
Balla, formerly celebrated for its holy well, now only 
worthy of notice on account of its round tower. 

Ballyglass, a place of little importance, but surroimded 
by several tasteful demesnes. About two miles to the left, 
is Mayo village, where Alfred, a Northumbrian king, is 
said to have pursued his studies. This was a city founded 
in 664 on the plains of Mayo, and gave its name to the 
county. Only a few scattered ruins mark the site of this 
early Irish seminary. 

From Ballyglass our route passes Newbrook demense, 
the seat of Lord Clanmorris, on the right ; Bloomfield 
House, the residence of Robert Rutledge, Esq., and Holly- 
mount House, Thomas Spencer Lindsay, Esq., on the left 
Close beside the road is the village of 

Eollymount, on the river Robe, the same stream which 
passes through Ballinrobe. It has a market, but is other- 



TUA^i. 299 

wise an insignificant place. In the vicinity, and on the 
route to Tnam, are Roundfort, Bushfield, Mount Jennings, 
and Annefield House. After these we pass Blindwell 
House and church, and Castlegrove, the seat of John W. 
Cannon, Esq., before reaching 

Tuara, an Episcopalian see, and archbishopric in the 
Koman Catholic Church. It is believed that in 487 an 
abbey was founded in Tuam, which was by St. Jarlath, in 
the sixth century, converted into a cathedral. This ancient 
building passed through many vicissitudes, but recently 
has been restored with exemplary skill by ^Mr. Deane of 
Dublin, who has carefully preserved the old cross, chancel, 
and mouldings. The chanoel-arch of the ancient building, 
now forming the great doorway of the renovated church, 
is an elaborately decorated specimen of the ancient Roman- 
esque architecture of Ireland, and is worthy of carefid in- 
Bpection. The Catholic cathedral, erected in 1823, is 
a pointed Gothic bidlding, picturesquely situate on an 
elevated ground, and commands an extensive prospect. 
The Roman Catholic College of Jarlath was formed in 
1814; it is presided over by the titular archbishop Dr. 
M^Hale, familiarly known from his writings, as "John 
of Tuam." The town is thriving, and has of late years 
been much improved, though much remains to be dona 
At Tuam the railway is taken for Galway via Athenry 
Junction. 

Very little of special interest occurs upon the road. For 
some time we travel at a little distance from Turloughmore, 
one of the winter loughs which occur in several parts of 
Ireland, In summer the area of the " lough " is pasture- 
land ; but in winter the water covers about three square 
miles.* 

* The word Turlongh is commonly applied in this part of Ireland to a 
temporary lake wliich is full of water in wet weather, but shrinks and dries 
cp in dry weather, partly from evaporation* hut chiefly in consequence of 



300 WESTPORT TO ACHILL AND DOOGORT. 

Athenry has already been described. By railway, either 
Dublin or Galway may be reached according to the desire 
of the tourist. 



WESTPOET TO ACHILL AND DOOGORT. 

Mail-car daily from the Railway Hotel at 8 A.M. (Simdaya excepted.) 

Miles. Miles. Miles. 

Newport . . 8i I Molrhany . llj 19J I Doogort . 16 43J 
Clew Bay. | Achill Sound 8 27^ j 

The ride from Westport to Achill is one of considerable 
interest, embracing, as it does, a district rich in natural 
peculiarities. At Newport we again hail the marvellous 
Clew Bay, and from this to the police barrack at Molrhany 
keep so close by its edge as to be able to count its rocky 
islets. Newport is not such a modem town as Clifden, 
though it has of late assumed a position of greater impor- 
tance than formerly it held. A few years ago it was not 
able to supply a comfortable night's lodging ; now it has 
a neat and well-regulated hotel and can supply cars and 
other requisites for tourists. The town has no very im- 
posing appearance, though, owing to its picturesque 
situation, it produces anything but an unpleasing effect 
upon the mind. At Mobhany we cross the neck of a high 
peninsula, and, crossing Achill Sound, enter upon the 
Achill, a large irregular island, separated on the east from 
the mainland by a sound not more than a mile in width ; 
on the west exposed to the fury of the Atlantic Ocean. 
To the north of the island is the deeply-indented Blacksod 
Bay, with few islands, but a multitude of miniature bays, 
and on the south lies Clew Bay, covered with islands, and 
at the upper end toothed like a comb with baylets. On 

the escape of the water through subterranean passages. The limestone 
country of Galway and Clare, like most other limestone districts, is fall of 
•ubterranean caverns, so that many of the rivers run more or less under- 
ground. When these rivers are flooded the surface hollows over and near 
to their courses also become full of water, which disappears as the channeli 
become emptied. 



THE ISLAND OF ACHILL. 301 

khe western side of tlie island rise stupendous cliffs to an 
elevation of 1800 feet above the sea, and according to the 
legend, far over these in calm sunset the Hy Brysail, or 
Enchanted Island. It is believed by some of the peasantry 
that Ossian resided in one of these enchanted islands for a 
lengthened period. Dr. O'Halloran has preserved the 
tradition, which runs as follows : — 

"Ossine MacFoin, seated on the banks of the Shannon, adoring the 
Anthor of Nature in the contemplation of his works, was suddenly hurried 
away to Tir-na-n'oge (the country of youth, or island of iin mortals), which 
he describes with all the vivacity that fancy, aided by the sight of so lovely 
a country as Ireland, could assist the bard with. He remained here for 
Bome days he thought, and on his return was greatly surprised to find no 
vestige of his house, or of his acquaintance. In vain did he seek after his 
father Fion, and his Fonne Eirion ; in vain sounds the Buabhal, or well- 
known military clarion, to collect those intrepid warriors. Long since had 
these heroes been cut off in battle ; long had his father ceased to live I 
Instead of a gallant race of mortals which he had left beliind, he found a 
puny and degenerate people, scarce speaking the same language. In a 
word, it appeared that instead of two days, he had remained near two 
centuries in this mansion of the blessed." 

The island of Achill * is about twenty miles in length, 
and contains a population of nearly 5000. The houses 
are very badly constructed of rough cobbles and turf. 
Sometimes a village may be seen without a single chimney 
in it. There is scarcely a tree on the island, the vegetation 
being composed of heath, juniper, and coarse grasses. 
Slievemore is the highest point on the island. It is 2204 
feet ; but Croghan is usually ascended, though its height 
does not exceed 2192 feet. The ascent is best made under 
the direction of a guide, who will be contented with a 
trifling recompense for his trouble. The view from the 
summit is of a kind totally different from any to be had 
among the mountains of Kerry. From most mountains 
you look upon an extensive succession of elevations and 
depressions, and perhaps in the distance descry over the 
top of a mountain range the majestic sea. Such a view is 
to be had from Skiddaw, and from many hills of lesser 
* There is an hotel at the ferry pier. 



302 WESTPORT TO ACfHTLL AND DOOGORT. 

note in Wicklow, and beautiful they are, though the 
gradual undulations in a measure diminish the apparent 
height of the station ; but when, placed more than 2000 
feet above the sea, we look, as it were, down into its sur- 
face, the effect is dazzling in the extreme. Such is the 
view from the summit of Croghan mountain. The bays of 
Blacksod and Clew, with islets and mainland — here a fish- 
ing village, and there a wild unproductive tract, form the 
aspects to th^ north, east, and south ; but in the far west 
the illimitable ocean becomes lost in the horizon. At 
Doogort, on the northern shore of Achill, is a Protestant 
settlement, established in 1833. It has been productive 
of much good, and might have done more, but that a spirit 
of intolerance on the part of its directors in a measure 
marred its prospects. On the way home, the tourist, if he 
has time, ought to visit the monastic ruins of Burrishoole 
and the remains of Carrig-a-Hooly Castle, once the retreat 
of Grace O'Malley. The square keep of the castle still 
stands, and bears evidence to the original strength of the 
fortress. The arm of the sea on which it was built was 
so deep, that vessels rode at low water under the very 
walls of the castle. The ruin of the religious house 
presents no peculiar feature ; it is plain, calm, and interests 
ing. " Here, tradition states, the skull of Grace O'Malley 
was formerly preserved, and valued as a precious relic. 
One night, however — so the legend goes — the bones of the 
famous sea-queen were stolen from their resting-place, and 
conveyed, with those of thousands of her descendants, into 
Scotland, to be ground into manure. The theft was of 
course perpetrated in secret, and in the night-time. If the 
crew had been seized by the peasantry with their singular 
cargo, not a man of them would have lived to tell the tale ; 
for the Irish regard with peculiar horror any desecration 
of the graveyard." 

Tourists who have a taste for mineralogy will have abundant opportunity 
of having it gratified in Achill, amethysts and other rare minerals heiiifi 
fti^orted as found her«. 



Westport. 


Miles. 


1 


Castlebar 


. 11 


Ox mountains (r) 


Pontoon Bridge 


. 22 


Dromore, "West 


Lough Conn. 




Aughris Head (I) 


Nephin. 




Ballysadare Bay (0 


Ballina .... 


. 83^ 


Ballysadare . , . , 


KiUala Bay. 




Rapids 


[Roserk Abbey, 4 m. I. 




Abbey 


Moyne Abbey, 6 m. I. 




Knocknarea (?) 


KiUala round tower and 




Sligo . . . 


cathedral, 8 m. I.} 







303 



ROUTE FROM WESTPOET to SLIGO, and thence to 
LONGFORD. 

A car runs daily between "Westport via Castlebar to Sligo. From Sligo the 
railway proceeds to Longford, Mullingar, and Dublin. 

Miles. 

48| 
65i 



70J 

Having explored tlie mountain scenery of the west, it 
may be that the tourist desires to reach the north 
from Westport without returning to the railway 
stations either at Gal way or Athenry. In this case 
an excursion of two days may be profitably made by 
way of Sligo (where the first night should be spent) 
and Longford, by rail, through Boyle and Carrick-on* 
Shannon. Should it not be desired to reach Dublin, 
a car from Sligo to Ballyshannon affords an oppor- 
tunity of reaching Londonderry by rail at 8*30 p.m. 

The route between Westport and Castlebar will be found 
described at page 296. 

Passing through Castlebar, we proceed to Turlough (4 
ra.) where a round tower (almost entire) will be found 
about 300 yards from the road : and 5 miles further to 
Pontoon Bridge, which crosses Lough Conn at a part where 
it narrows between the Upper and Lower Lakes. This is 
a beautiful spot, and by proceeding about a mile up the 
western side of the loch a very fine view of Nephin, and 
Lough Conn, may be obtained. Lough Conn is a large 
sheet of water, being nearly fourteen miles in length, by 
about one to three in width. Ou th» west side of it rises 



304 WESTPORT TO SLIGO. 

the great Nephin moimtaiii, with a finely-shaped conical 
summit, 2646 feet above the sea-level. It is a singular 
fact, that there is occasionally a reverse flow of the Lower 
Lake, usually called Lough Cullen, into the upper, or 
Lough Conn proper. The lake is situated about forty feet 
above the sea, and can have no tide communication with 
it. The banks are in many parts of fine sand, which 
shews the high-water line. The shores of the Lower Lake, 
on the west side, abound in little bays and creeks, and 
shew some bold outlines. Instead of driving on to Ballina, 
a boat may be had from Pontoon Bridge to the upper end 
of the lake, eight miles, and from thence the tourist has 
but five miles to proceed by car or on foot. 

Ballina [Imperial, Eoyal Mail, and Moy Hotels] is beauti- 
fully placed on the banks of the river Moy, about five miles 
above its jmiction with Killala Bay. The tide flows up to 
the town, but the river is only navigable to the quay, 
which is situated more than a mile and a-haK below it. 
The town is a favourite resort of anglers, who find ex- 
cellent sport in the river and lakes. The bay is famous 
as the rendezvous of the French invaders in 1798. The 
garrison of Killala, which consisted of only forty men, was 
surprised by the French General Humbert, who landed 
with a thousand men. 

On the following morniag a detachment of the French 
were driven in by an English picquet, who, advancing too 
far, were ambuscaded, and suffered considerable loss. The 
Kev. George Fortescue, rector of Ballina, who had volunteered 
for the occasion, was wounded in the affray. Towards 
night the French advancing, entered Ballina, and drove 
out the loyalists, who retreated to Foxford. The enemy 
retained possession for three weeks, when they were at- 
tacked by General Trench, and ultimately driven back to 
their ships. 

An agreeable day's excursion may be made from Ballina 
to Eoserk and Moyne Abbeys, KiUala and Downpatrick 
Head, a drive of eighteen miles. 



ROSERK ABBEY. 'SVb 

Roserh Abbey is about four miles nortli of Ballina, beau- 
tifully situated on the river Moj, surrounded T^dth undu- 
lating hills. This abbey is in a more perfect condition 
than that of Clare-Galway, which it somewhat resembles. 
Two miles from this are the remains of Moyne Abbey, a 
ruin in still better preservation ; and two miles north of 
it is the town of Killala, interesting not less from its fine 
position on the west side of the bay of the same name, 
than its round tower, and the ruins of St. Patrick's, once 
a diocesan cathedral. 

Downpatrich Head, 10 miles north of Killala, passing 
through the village of Ballycastle, is a succession of mag- 
nificent cliffs, w^ell worthy of a visit. In ascending the 
Head visitors are startled by coming suddenly on a great 
chasm, caused by the surface of the hill having fallen in. 
Cautiously approaching this abyss, and looking down at a 
depth of 2000 feet, the ocean is revealed, rolling in through 
a subterranean passage called the Poulashantana. If the 
weather be calm, a boat should be taken for the better 
inspection of the CHfi's and of the Eock Pillar, which 
stands about a gunshot from the mainland. This rock, on 
which the ruins of an ancient building are distinctly seen, 
is the abode of innumerable sea-fowl. 

From Ballina to Dromore the drive is, generally speak- 
ing, unattractive. The country is flat and moorland, and 
only relieved by the distant view, on the right, of the Ox 
mountains. From Dromore to Ballysadare, the aspect of 
the country is more cheerful, being better cultivated and 
more fertile, though to the right it is still mountainous. 
On the left Aughris Head, a promontory guarding the 
southern shore of Sligo Bay. Before reaching Ballysadare, 
we have a view on the left of the lake-like bay of the 
same name. 

Ballysadare, finely placed at the foot of the Lurgan 
hills, is a place rising into importance, owing to the oppor- 
tunity for employing water-power on the river Owenmore, 

X 



306 SLiao. 

whicli falls Into the baj, over a series of rocky ledges 
forming a succession of beautiful rapids. The Abbey oi 
St. Fechin overlooks the rapids on the west side of the 
river. 

The road now takes a northerly turn, and we pass, in 
the distance on our left, the hill of Knocknarea (1078 
feet), which rises on the eastern side of the entrance to 
Ballysadare Bay ; and from an elevated portion of the 
road obtain, long before reaching it, a fine view of Sligo 
and its spacious bay. 

SLIGO [Hotels : Imperial and Victoria. Mail cars to 
Ballyshannon and Enniskillen] is a busiuess town, 
carrying on a large export trade. It is situated 
in a deep valley on the banks of the harbour, and 
divided into two parts by the river Garvogue, which con- 
nects the harbour with Lough Gill. It is the county 
town, with a population of 10,000, returning one member 
to Parliament. Of late years its appearance has been much 
improved by the erection of new buildings, but the two 
main attractions are the ruins of the fine old Dominican 
abbey and Lough Gill. The routes also from Sligo by 
Glencar and Glenade to Enniskillen and Ballyshannon are 
worthy of attention. 

The Abbey of Sligo, founded about 1252 by Maurice 
Fitzgerald, Lord Justice, is a splendid ruin. It was con- 
sumed by fire in 1414, but soon afterwards re-erected. 
The choir has a beautiful Gothic window, still very per- 
fect, and an altar of carved stone. There are several beau- 
tiful tombs — one bearing date 1616, belonging to one of 
the O'Connors, is in good preservation. It represents 
figures of O'Connor-Sligo and his wife in the act of sup- 
plication, surmounted by a figure of Christ. The steeple 
is still entire, supported upon a lofty arch, which is still 
groined ; also the cloister In the centre of the conventual 
buildings forms an interesting compartment of the estalv 
lishment It consists at present of three sides of a square 



LOUGH GILL. 307 

of beautifully carved little arches of about four feet in 
height, which seem to hare been anciently separated from 
each other. Almost all the little pillars are differently orna- 
mented, and one in particular is very unlike the rest 
having a human head cut on the inside of the arch. There 
are several vaults throughout the ruins, containing the 
remains of skulls, bones, and coffins. The abbey is still 
used as a burying-place by the Koman Catholics. 

Lough Gilly or, as it is sometimes called. Lough Gilly, liea 
to the south-east of Sligo. The better plan is to hire a boat 
at Sligo and row up the river to it.* The lake is about five 
miles in length, and from one to two in breadth. The scenery 
is not by any means so wild as that of Killarney, but by 
some it is considered almost as beautiful. The hills and 
elevations on the sides are of no great altitude, but many 
of them beautifully wooded. There are upwards of twenty 
islands on the lake, and most of them are covered with 
trees, among which will be noticed the arbutus. Hazle- 
wood demesne, the seat of Captain Owen Wynne, D.L., 
extends over a portion of the banks of the lake. " This," 
writes Inglis, " is a very lovely spot ; the views of the 
lake from a hundred points are enchanting ; and in the 
disposition of lawn, wood, and shrubbery, taste and art 
have taken ample advantage of the gifts of nature. Finer 
evergreens I never saw in the most southern countries. 
The laurels and bays — grown into great trees — rivalled, if 
they did not surpass, those of Woodstock or Curraghmore ; 
and here I again found the arbutus, not indeed quite equal 
in its perfection to the arbutus of Killarney." An excellent 
view may be had by stopping at Dooney Eock, half way up 
the lough on the right hand side, where there is a landing 
place. From a grassy point projecting into the lake, a 
quarter of a mile from the landing stage, the prospect is 
obtained. Lough Gill possesses an advantage in its form : 
it can be all seen at one view, which cannot be said d 
many other lakes. 

* Boat to head of lake 5s. ; to Dooney Rock 28. 6d 



308 SLIGO TO LONGFORD. 

To the nortli-west of Sligo is the magnificent headland 
of Benhulben, formed of nearly horizontal beds of carbon- 
iferous limestone. The scenery of the country, which is 
very hilly between Sligo and Bundoran (see page 316), as 
well as round Lough Allen and the sources of the Shannon, 
is very beautiful. 

Sligo is connected by railroad with Longford and the south ; while, by 
the coaches which leave for Enniskillen and Bundoran respectively, the 
railway for Londonderry and the north is easily reached. 

The journey from Sligo to Longford by rail lies through 
Bally sadare to Collooney. Midway between Sligo and 
Ballysadare, on the lands of Carrowmore, occurs a remark- 
able collection of druidical remains, consisting of cairns, 
a circle, cromlechs, and pillar stones, well worthy of a visit 
from those interested in archaeology. On the left, after 
leaving the village of Collooney, is the demesne of Markrpp. 
the seat of Colonel Edward H. Cooper, with a fine - 
castellated mansion and observatory. For some distance 
on the way to Ballinafad, Lough Arrow, a pleasant expanse 
of water, about four or five miles long by a mile and a 
half wide, containing several beautiful islands, is on the 
left ; and in the same direction, Carrokee Hill (1062 feet). 

Ballinafad is a small town, with a dismantled castle of 
the same name, founded by one of the M^Donoughs. In 
its neighbourhood are two localities, one entitled Moy 
Tuiridh, remarkable as the scene of a decisive battle 
between the ancient Belgic and Danaan colonists of Ireland, 
and the other Ceis Cor ran, famous in romantic legend. The 
railway now rises over the Curlew mountains, on descend- 
ing which we have a good view of Lough Key and Boyle. 

BOYLE is really a pleasant town, agreeably situated on 
the banks of the Boyle river, and exhibits an aspect of 
thrift and comfort. Places of worship are provided for 
various religious sects. The barrack is a large and com- 
modious building, formerly the residence of the family of 
King, ancestors of Viscount Lorton, the proprietor of the 



THE ABBEY OF BOYLE. 309 

town, who has granted the inhabitants a small park in which 
there is a pedestrian statue of William III. On the north 
side of the river stands a stately abbey of Gothic archi* 
tecture, built a.d. 1152. Near a mile from Boyle are the 
ruins of a church, and about five miles farther are the 
ruins of a castle.' * 

The Ahhey of Boyle^ as it now remains, consists of choir, 
nave, and transepts. It combines the Norman and Gothic 
styles. Semicircular arches separate the aisles from the 
nave, which is 131 feet in length. The devices over the 
capitals exhibit figures of soldiers as well as saints. The 
east window is divided iato three narrow lancet lights. 
That over the western door is a lancet light beautifully 
moulded. The tower is square and heavy looking. It is 
supported on three Norman arches, and one in the pointed 
style. There are many interesting tombstones in the 
abbey. In 1235 the English plundered the abbey, going 
so far as to strip the monks of their gowns. In 1595 it 
was held as a fortress, and stormed by the Earl of T}Tone, 
with an army of 2300. It is now the property of Viscount 
Lorton. The bridge which adjoins the abbey is interesting 
on account of its antiquity, being nearly as great as that of 
the ruins. 

Lough Key is a small lake, but excels many of greater 
extent in this district, in the woods which adorn its banks. 
There are several islands on its surface, the most notable 
being Tiinity Island, with the ruins of a religious house, of 
which no authentic records exist ; and Castle Island, the 
site of a castle held by the M^Diarmids, the walls of which 
are still standing. 

* " In the cemetery of Kilbronan, not far from Boyle, was "buried the 
famous Cardan, one of the last of the veritable Irish bards ; and here for 
several years the skull that had * once been the seat of so much verse and 
music,' was placed in the niche of the old church, decorated, not with 
laurel, but with a black ribbon. He died in the neighbourhood in the year 
1741, at a very advanced age, notwithstanding that he had been in a state 
of into-^cation during probably seven-eighths of his life." — Hibemm 
lUustraUx. 



310 SMGO TO LONGI'Olli). 

Skirting the lake, and almost surrounding it, is Eocking- 
ham, the seat and beautiful demesne of Hon. King Harman, 
comprising aa extent of 2000 acres^ well wooded and 
watered, with a splendid modem mansion in the Ionic style 
of architecture, hexastyle portico and fa9ades, ornamented 
with columns. Visitors are allowed on week days to walk 
or drive through the demesne, which commands fine views 
of Lough Key. The district surrounding Boyle is very 
fertile, and well known all over Ireland by the title of the 
" Plains of Boyle." 

At Carrick'OTi-Shannon, which has already been described 
(p. 258), we enter the county of Leitrim. 

Drumsna is a pleasant little village near the well-planted 
estate of Mount Campbell, the residence of the late Admiral 
Rowley. Through a well cultivated country, enlivened by 
frequent mansions and woods, we proceed to Drumod, 
where interesting views are obtained of the Loughs Bofin 
and Boderg, both enlargements of the great river Shannon. 

Rooshey Bridge is an insignificant village, where the 
Shannon is crossed, below Lough Boderg. On our way 
thence we pass through Newton Forbes, and on the right, 
Castle Forbes, the beautiful seat of the Earl of Granard, 
and, proceeding over a flat rich country, soon arrive at 
Longford. 

From Longford the tourist can proceed by railway direct 
to Dublin. 



311 



LOUGH ERNE DISTEICT. 
From Sligo or Galway to Enniskillen, THROuan 

MULLINGAR, BY RaIL. 





MiLl 


s. 


Miles. 


From 


From 


From From 


DubUn. Galway. 


Dublin. Galway. 


MuLLiNOAR (by rail as 






Butler's Bridge. 


at page 220) . 


50 


76^ 


Lough Oughter. 


Lough Owel. 






Wattle Bridge . . 96i 122| 


MULTIFARNHAM . 


67i 


84 


Newtown Butler. 


Float Road, for Castle 






Crum Castle (2 m. I) 


PoUard . 


64i 


90| 


LiSMASKEA . . . 105| 132J 


Balliwillan for Gra- 






BeUeisle (Z) 


NARD . 


70 


96i 


Enniskillen and Lough 


Crossdoney 


81i 


108 


Eme . . . 117| 144i 


Cavan .... 

rTTi_«_ i_ :i 


85f 


112J 


J. !_^ 'J _1 _i? J.1_ . 



TkLs route will give the tourist a rapid glance of the 
central districts of Ireland, as it traverses the counties of 
"Westmeath, Longford, Cavan, Fermanagh, Tyrone, and 
Londonderry. The railway routes between Mullingar and 
Dublin on the east, and Galway on the west, have already 
been described. 

For some distance after leaving Mullingar the line runs along Lough 
Owel, the water of which is 329 feet above the sea, and forms the summit- 
level supply of the Royal Canal. It is about 5 miles long, and though its 
neighbourhood is very sparingly planted, not altogether destitute of beauty. 
There are several gentlemen's seats on the margin of the lake. 

MultifarnJiam (junction for Longford and Sligo) is the first station on 
the line. Here are the ruins of a Franciscan abbey, with a steeple 93 feet 
high, founded in 1236 by William Delawere. In 1529 the Observantines 
held a chapter in the abbey. To the north of Multifamham is Lough Dere- 
veragh, at the upper end of which Knockeyon (707 feet) is a conspicuous 
object from every side. To the south-west of Multifamham is an hospital 
for the education of Protestant orphans, endowed by the late Andrew 
Wilson, with an annual revenue of £4000. 

After passing the junction for Edgeworthstown (p. 222), Longford and 
Sligo (p. 306), the next station is Float Road, for Castle Pollard, a towB 
pleasantly situated about midway between the northern extremity of Lough 
Dereveragh and Lough Lene. In the vicinity are Kinturk, the seat of 
Major Pollard Urquhart, M.P.^ and Benison Lodge. 



.312 DUBLIN OR GALWAY TO ENNISKILLEH. 

Granard, on the left from the main line, is worthy of a visit in order to 
inspect the hill called the ''Meat" thought to be artificial, and the site of a 
Danish castle or fort, which commands, from its summit, a most extensive 
prospect into several adjoining counties. The elevation of the Moat of 
Granard is stated to be 593 feet above the level of the sea. North of 
Granard is Lough Gouna, a curiously irregular and picturesque sheet of 
water. 

Crossdoney is a pleasant little village, with numerous seats in its im* 
mediate vicinity — Lismore Castle, Belleville Castle, Crosby, and Drum- 
carbin, are among the number. 

Cavan [Globe Hotel] is the assize town, situated in the centre of the 
county, in the midst of a very fertile country, and though possessing few 
objec s worthy of notice is not without a degree of beauty. The church is 
a hauubome structure. 

Farnham, the beautiful demesne of Lord Famham, lies to the west of 
Cavan, between the town and Lough Oughter. The line here passes through 
a country possessing only the attraction of a fertile soil, with here and 
there a slightly elevated hill, and anon a wooded demesne, to relieve the 
tameness of the scene. 

Butler's Bridge, on the left, is a small village on the river Annalee, a 
tributary of Lough Oughter. Passing the demesnes of Holies Wood and 
Clover Hill, we see on our left the handsome mansionof Castle Saunderson, 
the seat of Alex. Saunderson, Esq. , beautifully situated at a considerable 
elevati:>Q above Lough Erne. Passing Belturbet junction we soon reach 
the station and junction of Clones, where rail may be taken direct to 
Belfast, Dundalk, or Enniskillen. Clones is a town of historical interest. 
It is situate on a hill, the summit of which is crowned by a handsome 
cruciform church. A curious old cross with sculptured figures stands in 
the main square of the town, and the remains of a fort will be seen on an 
eminence near the town. Proceeding onwards, we enter County Fermanagh 
and the Erne district. This may be compared to a rough parallelogram of 
40 miles in length, by 20 broad, and is occupied by two lakes, the Upper 
and Lower Erne. The upper, which we approach first, is an uninteresting 
stretch of water, narrow and winding, and devoid of that luxuriant vege- 
tation which renders the lower Lough so picturesque. The real scenery of 
the lakes commences at Ely Lodge, 5 miles to the north of Enniskillen, 
and tourists need not delay their route short of that town. The geologist, 
however, will remark a considerable difference in the rocks between those 
of the upper and lower lakes. Limestone and the coal measures extend 
along the upper section of the lake country, while the lower is, with the 
exception of some limestone at Kesh, occupied by the old red sandstone. 
The whole upper, in limestone, section abounds in small lakes, subterraneouj 
streams and caves. The next station on the line is 

Newtown Butler, a small town situated on an elevation. The main 
street, in which is the market-place, rises very abruptly, and contains soma 
good shops. To the west is Crom Castle, the seat of the Earl of Erne, 



ENNISKILLEN. 313 

situated on the shores of the lough. The demesne is well wooded, and laid 
out with great taste. Among other ohjects of attraction it contains a fine 
yew tree, said to he the largest in the kingdom, and the ruins of the old 
castle of Crom, which held out for several days against the army of King 
James in 1689. The line proceeds in a north-westerly direction at no great 
distance from the Upper Lough Erne, of which occasional glimpses are to 
be had. Passing the small town of Lismaskea, belonging to the Earl of 
Erne, Belleisle, once the beautiful residence of the Earls of Rosse, but 
now occupied by J. G. Vesey Porter, Esq. ; and Castle Coole, the magnifi- 
cent seat of the Earl of Belmore. 

ENNISKTLLEN" [Hotels: Imperial; White Hart; 
M^Bride's ; Enniskillen Arms] is the chief town in the 
Comity Fermanagh, and contains a population of 5900. 
It is built upon an island in the river connecting the 
Upper and Lower Loughs Erne, and partly on the main- 
land, with which it is connected by two bridges. The 
town consists principally of one street, which pursues an 
undulating course from north to south. The church is a 
good building. The principle manufacture carried on is 
cutlery ; a considerable quantity of straw-plait is made in 
the neighbourhood, and the butter-market, held on Monday 
and Tuesday, is one of the best in the kingdom. The 6th 
regiment of dragoons, known as the Inniskillings, was 
principally raised in this town, which is an important 
military station, containing large barracks and two forts 
to command the pass across the river. A column sur- 
mounted with a statue of the late General Cole, occupies a 
prominent site in the centre of one of the forts. It is 
about 100 feet high, and affords an extensive view from 
its summit. 

To the west of the town is the Portora Eoyal School, styled the " Irish 
Rugby," and well worthy of a visit by those interested in our educational 
institutions. An agreeable drive may also be taken to Castle Coole, one of 
the finest Grecian mansions in Ireland, erected by Wyatt at an expense of 
£200,000. The tourist is freely admitted to the grounds, which are beau- 
tifully laid out and' adorned with rows of magnificent oaks and beeches. 
A longer excursion may also be taken to Florence Court, the residence of 
the Earl of Enniskillen, about 9 miles south-west of Enniskiilen, crossing 
the Erne, returning by the Marble Arch, Lough Macnean, and the Bow 
Caves to Ely Lodge (Marquis of Ely) on Lough Erne. This round, however, 
will take a whole dsM* 



314 



LOUGH ERNE. 




Lower Lough Erne, whicli is conveniently visited from 
Enniskillen, is styled the "Windermere of Ireland. Al- 
tlioiigli wanting the varied picturesqueness of Killarney, 
it is undoubtedly a charming lake, and abounds with in- 
terest to the artist, the antiquary, and naturalist. Studded 
with islets, which dip their luxuriant foliage in its waters, 
it adds the beauties of a sylvan stream to the placid 
sternness of a majestic lake. The tourist will find ample 
scope on its shores and islands for rambles of the most 
varied kind, while the angler will not be disappointed with 
its waters if the weather be propitious. There are two 
ways of seeing the Lough. By steamer (which, however, 
is irregular in its sailings) the visitor may traverse the 
lake from end to end in two or three hours ; or, if he 
intends to see everything, a boat should be taken from 
Enniskillen, and he should row down the whole way, and 
this can be done in five hours. 

To those who wont venture on the water, it is strongly 
recommended to take a car (the railway affording very im- 
perfect views) down the north side of the Lough by Kesh to 
Pettigoe, a distance of about 20 miles. This is one of the 
most beautiful drives in Ireland. Of the numerous islands 



LOUGH ERNE. 



316 




the one most deserving of a visit is Devenish Island, 
about two miles and a half from Enniskillen, and reached 
by row-boat. In contains an area of nearly eighty acres. 



316 DUBLIN OR GALWAY TO ENNISKILLEN. 

Devenish, though green as an emerald, is destitute of the foliage which 
adorns most of the other islands. A very fine round tower, selected for 
illustration by Dr. Petrie on his work on the Rounds Towers of Ireland a3 
the most perfect in the kingdom, stands not far from the ruins of the 
abbey. " It is exactly circular, 69 feet high to the conical converging at 
the top, which has been restored, and is 16 feet more ; it is 48 feet in cir- 
cumference, and the walls are 3 feet 5 inches thick ; thus the inside is 
only 9 feet 2 inches in diameter, besides the door, which is elevated 9 feet 
above the ground ; there are seven square holes to admit the light. The 
whole tower is very neatly built with stones of about a foot square, with 
scarcely any cement or mortar, and the inside is almost as smooth as a 
gun barrel." This tower is singular in the possession of a sculptured band 
of curious design at the eve of its conical roof. It appears that St. Molaise 
was the first founder of a Christian church in Devenish. He died in 663 oi 
670. There are the remains of two churches in the island. That termed 
the upper is the most beautiful, and appears to be of much more recent 
erection than the other. It is still customary for the peasantry to have 
their deceased friends interred among the ruins of this holy spot, as at 
Scattery and Glendalough. 

From Enniskillen the traveller may proceed to Donegal or Sligo by 
taking a boat down the lake to Beleek, and thence by railway or car vid 
BaUyshannon. 

Although EnnisHUen and Lough Erne have been de- 
Bcrihed in connection with the Connemara district, it is not 
because they are more closely connected with that tour, 
but in consequence of Enniskillen occupying a sort of de- 
batable ground between the North and the West tours. 
To travellers bound either for Connemara or Donegal, this 
station acts as an excellent base for visiting the lake next 
in beauty to Ki Harney. 

A pleasant excursion may be made from Enniskillen by Lough Erne, or 
by rail aU the way to Beleek, where there is an inn with snug accoc> 
modation for anglers— this is a good fishing-station — thence to Ballyshannvn 
(Inns: Imperial and Erne). There is a famous salmon-leap on the river 
here, where the fish may be seen jumping over the waterfall in their attempt 
to ascend stream. Four miles further is the pleasant sea-bathing village of 
Bundoroun (Hamilton's Hotel), where those in search of a strong sea-breez« 
and a dip in the genuine Atlantic may spend a few days pleasantly enough. 
The clifis form a very invigorating promenade, and there are some sheltered 
nooks on the beach below for bathers of both sexes. 



BELFAST 

AXD 

THE NOETH OF lEELAND, 

FROM DUBLIN TO DONEGAL, 

Dtsenbed in order. 



318 
DUBLIN TO BELFAST 

BY RAILWAY FROM AMIENS STREET TERMINUS. 



ON RIGHT FROM 
DUBLIN. 



Cloktarf Castle, 
seat of Mr. Vernon. 



Raheny Village. 

,^ HowTH, 4i m 
distant. The Hill of 
Howth visible. 

Portmarnock Ho., 
John Plunkett, Esq. 

Malahide Hill. 

Broomfield House, 
George Cash, Esq. 



Sea Park. 



The Village of Ma- 
lahide. P. 60. 



Newport, seat of 
Despard Taylor, Esq. 
Ruins of Landers 
town within the de- 
mesne. 



Lambay Island, the 
property of Lord Tal- 
bot de Malahide, lies 
off about 3 m. south- 
east of Rush. 






112i 

llOi 
108i 

105^ 

104i 
103J 



STATIONS, ETC. 



Dublin. 

Terminus. Built in 
the Italian style ; fa- 
Qade of Wicklow gran- 
ite. 

Line passes about one 
mile from Clontarf, 
the scene of Brian 
Boroimhe's victory. 

Raheny. 

Junction. 



Portmarnock. 



Pass through a ( 
cutting. 



Malahide. 

The Malahide estuary 
is crossed on 
wrought-iron lattice 
viaduct on stone 
piers, having twelve 
spans, eight of them 
fifty-two feet wide. 

Donabate. 

Line crosses an estu- 
ary, on a strong em- 
bankment, with a 
wooden viaduct 335 
feet in length, and 15 
feet above tides. 



4| 



111 



OK LEFT FROM 
DUBLIN. 



Marino, seat of Earl 
of Charlemont. 



St. Doolagh's t» 
Church, 1 m. distant, 
is of great antiquity. 



Malahide Castle 
AND Demesne, the 
seat of Lord Talbot 
de Malahide. 

Swords, 3 m. |& 
P. 61. Has a round 
tower 73 feet high. 



Coeduff Demesne. 



319 



FROM DUBLIN TO BELFAST, &c.— Continued. 



ON RIGHT FROM 
DUBLIN. 



Si 



.C5 Rush, 2 m. dis- 
tant. A fine Catholic 
chapel and schools in 
the village. A fishing 
village, exports cod- 
Uver oil and salt fish, 
Luke Ryan, the Irish 
Paul Jones, who held 
a privateer's commis- 
sion from France dur- 
ing the American war, 
was a native of Rush. 



Hacketstown De- 
mesne, John John- 
ston, Esq. 

Skerry Islands, 
three in number. On 
one are some ruins re- 
ferred to the time of 
St. Patrick. 



Balbriggan Dock, 
constructed in 1829 
by the then proprie- 
tor, the Rev. G. Ha- 
milton, at a cost of 
£3000. 



STATIONS, ETC. 






90i 



Bnsh and Lnsk, 
P. 62. 



Kenure Park, the 
fine modem mansion 
of Sir R. Palmer, 
Bart., contains some 
interestingrelicsfrom 
Pompeii. 

Line passes through 
deep cutting of Bal- 
dungan Hill. 



Br, cr. the road to 

Skerries. 



Skerries. 

The ancient name of 
Skerries was Holm 
Patrick. It is said to 
have'sheltered St. Pa 
trick when pursued 
by the Druids. 

Balbriggan. 

A smalltown, famous 
for stocking manu- 
facture. The pro- 
perty of Balbriggan 
belongs to the Ha- 
milton family, who 
came into possession 
in the 18th century. 
Viaduct crosses the 
harbour. Consists of 
11 arches 30 feet span 
and 35 in height ; the 
piers of hewn stone. 

Br. or. river Delvin 
and enter the county 
I of Meath. 



14 



m 



21| 



ON LEFT FROM 
DUBLIN. 



LnsK, 1 m. dist. to 



Baldungan Church 
AND Castle in ruins, 
an ancientpreceptory 
of Knights Templars. 
It was taken by Crom- 
well, and burned. 

Mtlverton, seat of 
George Woods, Esq. 



Ardgillan Castle, 
the seat of Lieuten- 
ant-Colonel Taylor, 
M.P. 

Hampton Hall, the 
seat of Geo. Alex. 
Hamilton, M,P. 



Belmore Castle, in 
ruins. 



320 



FROM DUBLIN TO BEIFAST, kc— Continued. 



ON RIGHT FROM 
DUBLIN, 



Bettystown, former- 
ly called BetagLs- 
town, a small water- 
ing-place. 

Calpe, a small vil 
lage. St. Patrick is 
said to have landed 
here, and proceeded 
hence to Tara. 

MoRNiKGTON, a vil- 
lage on the Boyne, 
from which the great 
Duke of Wellington's 
father took his title. 



About 2 m. distant, 
Stonehouse, the seat 
of Finlay Alder Ches- 
ter, Esq. ; 

RoKEBY Hall, seat 
of Sir John S. Robin- 
son, Bart. ; and 

Barmeath, seat of 
Lord Bellew, 



STATIONS, etc. 



Gormanstown. 



Cross river Nanny by 
a solid embankment, 
with a wooden via- 
duct 304 feet 
length. Good trout- 
fishing in the Nanny. 



Laytown, 

A small sea-bathing 
place. 



Drogheda. 

The viaduct, 95 feet 
in height, which here 
crosses the Boyne, is 
grand and massive in 
the extreme. It con 
sists of 12 arches of 61 
feet span on the south 
side of the river, and 3 
of similar size on the 
north, with 3 open- 
ings for the traflBc on 
the river. The centre 
arch is 250 feet, and 
those on either side 
125. The weight which 
the bridge is calcu- 
lated to support with- 
out injury to itself is 
7200 tons. P. 62. 
Line enters C. Loutb. 



S;9 



m 



ON LEFT FROM 
DUBLIN. 



Gormanstown Cas- 
tle, seat of Viscount 
Gormanstown. 

Ballygarth Castle, 
once the demesne of 
Col. Pepper, whose 
life furnished the in- 
cidents for Lover's 
clever stoiy, the 
" White Horse of the 
Peppers." 



JULIANSTOWN, 2 tCT 

m. distant. The scene 
of a fierce encounter 
betwixt tbeRoy aland 
Parliamentary forces 
in 1641, in which the 
former were com- 
pletely routed. 



Branch toNAVAN ^ 
17^ m., and Kells, 
27^ m. distant. 

At Navan, ruins of 
Athlumney Castle, 
round tower of Do- 
naghmore, and anci- 
ent church and bridge 
of Clady. 

At Kells, monastery 
founded by St. Co- 
lumbkiUe, and round 
tower. 

Monasterboicc round 
tower and abbey 
mins. P. 65. 



321 



PROM DUBLIN TO BELFAST, tc— Continued 



ON RIGHT FROM 
DUBLIN. 




STATIONS, ETC. 


23 




701 


Dnnleer. 


41i 




mi 


Br. cr. river Dee. 


43 


Castle Bellingham 
Demesne, seat of Sir 
Alan E. Bellingham, 
Bart. Contains some 
magnificentyew-trees 


64i 
64i 


Castle 
Bellingham. 

The village, about 
two miles distant, is 
famous for its ale. 

Br. cr. river Clyde. 


471 
48 




601 


Br. cr. river Fane. 


52 


Dundalk Bay. 


58J 


Lundalk. 

Edward Bruce was 
crowned king of Ire- 
land in Dundalk. He 
died near the town in 
battle with the Eng- 
lish in 1318. P. 342. 


541 




561 


Br. cr. river Kllcurry . 


55i 




54i 


Mount Pleasant 
and Jonesboro'. 


58 


431 Newry, 3 m. 
P. 343. Line from 
Newry to Warren- 
point, 6^ m. P. 346. 
Thence to Rosstre- 
vor, 2^ m. P. 346. 


41 

37f 


Newry. 

(Main Line Station.) 

Goragh Wood, 

The railway to Newry 
branches off here. 


7li 

74^ 




34f 


Poyntzpass, 

otherwise calledFen- 
wick's - pass. " At 
this and Scarvagh 
Pass was the first 
assembly of the Eng- 
lish army in 1688." 

Scarva Junction. 


77^ 



ON LEFT FROM 
DUBLIN. 



Branch to Ennis- vy 
killen, 60 m. distant. 



The line passes over 
Antrim hills here. 



Extensive limestone 
quarries. 



Branch to Banbridge, 
7 miles. A thriving 
town, with numerous 
linen manufactories. 



322 



FROM DUBLIN TO BELFAST, &e.—Continv£d. 



ON RIGHT FROM 
DUBLIN. 



O. Gilford, 2 
distant. A town on 
the river Bamijiii ^^^ 
County Down, The 
rising ground in the 
meighbourhood is well 
planted. The linen 
trade is carried on ex- 
tensively here. The 
chalybeate spa of Gil- 
ford was formerly 
much frequented. 

•O Dromore, 14^ m. 
distant. The resi- 
dence of the bishops 
•of Dromore, until the 
see was united to 
Down and Connor. 
There are no remains 
of the ancient cathe 
dral, and the present 
church has no preten- 
sions to particular 
notice except as hav- 
ing been built by 
Jeremy Taylor when 
bishop of Down. 

■O LURGAN, ^ m. 
distant, A flourish- 
ing town engaged in 
the linen manufac- 
ture, about two miles 
from Lough Neagh. 

Hillsborough, 4 m. 



Victoria Street. 



a ^ 



291 



stations, etc. 



Gilford and Tan- 



25^ 



19| 



Portadown 
Junction. 

Pleasantly situated 
on the river Bann, 
The canal fromNewry 
falls into the Bann 
within a mile of the 
town. P, 346, 



Lurgan. 

Page 344. 

Br. or. Lagan Canal, 



Moira. 

Lisburn. 

Manufacturing town. 
Gives title to family 
of Vaughan. 

Dunmurry. 

Balmoral, 

Belfast. 

Ulster Railway 
Terminus. 



821 



105 

108J 

110 

1121 



ON left from 
LONDON. 



Tanderagee, 1 t& 
m. distant. 

Tanderagee Castle, 
the seat of the Duke 
of Manchester. 



Branch to Ar- ty 
MAGH, 10^ m (p. ), 
to MoNAGHAN, 27 m., 
and Clones. ' 

Branch to Dun- iQr 
GANNON, 15 m., tha 
largest town in Ty4 
rone, and formerly 
the chief seat of the| 
O'Neils, kings of Ul-i 
ster. It gives title'i 
of Viscount to the 
family of Trevor. I 

Charlestown, to 
SJ m. distant. 



LouGH Neagh. 



Glenavy, 9 m. tor 
distant. A small 
town on the eastern 
side of Lough Neagh. 



Glingaix BfTaxxt, 



■\ 



x^iupeiLv 01 tne Marquis 



BELFAST. 

Hotels.— Imperial, Donegall Place. Boyal, Donegall Place. Prince of 
"Wales, Victoria Street. Commercial, Commercial Buildings. Queen's 
York Street. Victoria, Waring Street. Eglinton and Winton, High 
Street. Linen Hall, Donegall Square. 

CARS, HACKNEY COACHES, ETC. 
I. — Two-wheeled Carriages drawn by One Horse. 

By time. 



By distance. 

For any distance not ex- 
ceeding one mile - - Os. 6d. 

For every additional half 
mile - - - - Os. 3d. 



For the first hour or part of 
an hour - - - Is. Od. 

For every additional half 
hour - . - - Os. 6d. 



If engaged by the day, 10s. 
II. — Four-wheeled Carriages with One HoRSip. 



By distance. 
For any distance not ex- 
ceeding one mile - - Os. 8d. 
For every additional half 
mile - - - - Os. 4d. 

If engaged "by the day, 12s. 6d. 

III. — Two Horse Carriages. 
By distance. 
For any distance not ex- 
ceeding one mile - - Is. Od. 
For every additional half 
mile - - - - Os. 6d. 



By time. 
For the first hour or part of 

an hour - - - Is. 4d. 
For every additional half 

hour - - , - Os. 8d. 



By time. 
For the first hour or part of 

an hour - - - Is. 8d. 
For every additional half 

hour - - . Os. 8d. 



If engaged by the day, 13s. 6d. 

Luggage not exceeding 112 Ihs. allowed free. 

The Tramway Cars run every few minutes between Albert Memorial and 
Botanic Gardens, and Albert Memorial and Northern Counties Railway- 
fare 2d. 

Omnibuses ply between Commercial Buildings and Northern Counties 
Railway, York Street. For every train — fare 2d. 

Between Bank Buildings and Mount Pottinger and Sydenham, at fre- 
quent intervals daily— fares 2d., 3d., and 4d. 

Between Bank Buildings and Fort- William Park, at frequent intervals 
daily— fares 3d. and 4d. 

Few towns liave progressed in importance so rapidly as 
BeKast. In the course of fifty years the population has 
increased nearly fivefold. In 1821 the inhabitants 
numbered only 37,000, while in 1851 they increased to 
100,301 and in 1871 to 174,394. 

The city stands upon the property of the Marquis 




lalJiiliea \,jA.kC Bliidr limbn-gk 



3 2 4 BELFAST. 

of Donegal, and it is said that, but for long leases 
granted by the former proprietor, the income of that noble- 
man from the town alone would amount to ^300,000, while 
all this is from what James I. presented to Sir Arthur Chi- 
chester as an insignificant village. The town of BeKast is 
conveniently situated on the river Lagan, just before it 
f ows into the elongated bay known as BeKast Lough. The 
port is only 130 miles from Glasgow, and 156 from Liver- 
pool. It has a good trade with both of these ports, especi- 
ally in linen goods and farm produce. The more valuable 
part of the exports, however, are linen goods, of which 
mention will be made at a future page. The Irish name 
of Belfast is expressive of the situation of the town — Beal 
n^ij far sad, signifying the ^' mouth of the ford." The har- 
bour, originally a creek of the river Lagan, has now become 
one of the finest in the United Kingdom. The bay is well 
sheltered from north and west winds by a number of hills 
in the vicinity. It affords a safe anchorage, although it is 
not without sand-banks. *^ Prior to 1839, large vessels 
had to lie in the pool or basin of Garmoyle, four miles 
from the town ; but in 1840 a new cut was formed, hav- 
ing nine feet water at low tides, which has proved a great 
convenience to the steamers and other vessels frequenting 
the port. The effect of this improvement is a great addi- 
tion to the tonnage, it having increased from 445,537 tons 
in 1845, to 650,938 tons in 1851, and to 1,225,000 tons 
in 1870. Vessels drawing 16 feet water can now come 
up in neap tides, and those drawing 18 or 20 feet in 
spring tides. The management of the port, and all matters 
connected with traffic by sea, are under the charge of the 
Harbour Commissioners, established by statute in 1831, 
and elected by the rate-payers. The recent improvements 
have been of very great extent, having cost £250,000 
raised in local loans on the security of the harbour dues." 

'* The quays extend in a continuous line from the Queen's Bridge for about 
a mile. There are two docks — Prince's and the Clarendon — which are 
reserved for foreign shipping, to which have been added the Abercorn Basin 
and the Hamilton Graving Dock, which were formally opened by the Lord 



BELFAST. 325 

Lieutenant of Ireland on the 2d of October 1867. Tliere 'is also a new float- 
ing dock with entrance gates 60 feet wide, and whicn, at high water of ordi- 
nary tides, has a depth of 22 feet over the sili ; also a tidal dock and entrance 
basin. The new docks — exclusive of the Hamilton Graving Dock, which Is 
450 feet long, and capable of admitting the largest class of vessels — add 25 
acres of water area, and upwards of a mile of quayage to the shipping ac- 
commodation of the port, A pair of masting shears, capable of lifting a 
weight of 50 tons, and masting the largest vessels afloat, has been erected 
at the Abercorn Basin." 

"The offices of the Harbour Commissioners are contained in a superb 
edifice, in the Italian style, finished in 1854, from the designs of George 
Smith, Esq., C.E., entirely constructed of cut stone, with an elegant clock- 
tower. It stands on a well-selected site, the principal front facing Clarendon 
Dock." **0n the Queen's Island is an iron ship-building yard, employing 
upwards of 2,000 hands, from which have been launched some of the finest 
steamers and sailing ships afloat. This yard has been placed on the Admi- 
ralty list as suitable for building for the Royal Navy. A gun-vessel of 500 
tons was constructed here in 1867 for the Fleet ; and four iron steamers 
were launched in 1871, with an aggregate tonnage of 16,000 tons." "The 
burgh returns two members of Parliament ; constituency in 1873, 15,010. 
It is governed by a corporation elected by the rate-payers of the five wards — 
St. Anne's, Dock, Smithfield, St. George's, and Cromac — each ward returning 
two aldermen and six Councillors."* 

The general appearance of tlie town is that of a clean, 
thrifty, business place, with some of the trade and manu- 
facture of Manchester and Glasgow, but without the smoke 
or dirt of either. The buildings are good, and many of the 
streets very regular and wide, especially towards the ex- 
terior of the town. 

Belfast cannot claim the same high antiquity as Dublin or even Drogheda, 
having been actually unheard of before the twelfth century, unless as a 
piece of country without interest, or even inhabitants. Henry II,, though 
not possessing a foot of territory within it, granted the whole province of 
Ulster to his follower De Courcy, who lost no time in endeavouring to secure 
the possessions bestowed on him. The fishermen's hovels, which had for- 
merly been the only representatives of a town, gave way in process of time 
to stone-built houses — in fact an embryo city, Edward Bruce did not lose 
sight of Belfast-in his way south, but completely sacked it. Shortly after 
the death of Bruce, the Earl of Ulster was murdered by some of his own 
family, and the Irish once more held out against English aggression, rebuilt 
the castle of Belfast, and held it for two centuries. The most important 
era in the history of Belfast is that of its presentation to Sir A, Chichester, 
the ancestor of the present Marquis of Donegal, in 1612. A year later the 
burgh was incorporated. From this period the commercial spirit of the 
inhabitants seems to have been fostered, though it was not for many years 

* Thorn's Almanack. 



326 BELFAST. 

that it assumed a very striking attitude. It is worthy of notice that, not- 
withstanding the early spread of Presbyterianism in the county of Antrim, 
and especially in the town of Belfast, great indignation was expressed by 
the inhabitants at the execution of Charles I. Milton, who, though a great 
man, could not afford to be charitable, spoke very disrespectfully of them 
for this liberality of spirit, styling them "blockish Presbyters," and "un- 
hallowed priestlings." In 1660 the town, as we learn by a plan bearing 
that date, contained but six streets. " Perhaps the most remarkable fact 
in the industrial history of Belfast is, that no printing press was ever brought 
into the city before the year 1696. In barbarous Russia, 'therefore, printing 
was used at an earlier date than in this commercial town. Yet Belfast was 
the town where the first Bible ever printed in Ireland was published 
(printed by Messrs. Blow and Neill in 1794), and where the oldest Irish 
periodical, the 'Weekly Magazine,' was originally established."* 

There are now numerous newspapers published in Bel- 
fast. The first established was " The Belfast News Letter," 
begun in 1737, now a daily paper ; besides it there are 
" The Northern Whig," " The Ulster Examiner," " The 
Ulster Echo," " The Morning News," and " The Evening 
Telegraph," which are all daily papers ; " The Linen 
Trade Circular," " Mercantile Journal," etc., issued weekly. 

We do not offer any detailed walks through the city, 
but select the more interesting features, and by reference 
to the plan the descriptions will be readily found. 

The Commercial Buildings, situated opposite the end 
of Donegal Street, were built by a company in 1820 at a 
cost of £20,000. The pile contains a large and handsome 
reading-room, well supplied with newspapers. A consider- 
able portion of the building is let off as a hotel. In the 
commercial buildings was the office of Ireland's regenerator, 
" the Eoyal Society for the promotion and improvement 
of the growth of flax in Ireland." (It is not too much to 
say that never has any society done so much for the civilisa- 
tion of a country as this has for Ireland.) As we will have 
occasion to refer in another place to the linen trade of Ire- 
land, we will only call attention at present to the increased 
growth of flax in Ireland since the establishment of this 
society, and the benefits likely to accrue to the country 
from this addition to her national resources. The society 

* Kohl's Ireland. 



PUBLIC BUILDINGS. 327 

had an annual grant from Government of XlOOO, and did 
not confine its operations to Ulster, but had a staff of 
instructors distributed over the country. The quantity of 
flax cultivated in Ireland has been generally on the increase 
of late years. In 1847 there were 58,312 acres sown, each 
acre yielding about 5 cwt. of scutched fibre, altogether worth 
.£656,100. In 1852 the value of the crop had increased 
by nearly a million sterling, while in 1870 the estimated 
value of the flax grown was two millions. The amount 
of money thus spread in the country must have its 66*6 ct 
in producing happy changes in the social condition of the 
people, especially seeing that a considerable portion of it 
must be paid for labour. At the annual meeting of the 
society for 1853, the chairman, the Earl of Erne, stated 
that " he held in his hand a return which he had procured 
from a friend of his, and he found, by referring to it, that 
on the produce of an acre of ground under flax, a day's 
labour of sixty-four females and fifty-three males, or one 
hundred and seventeen persons in all, is employed on it 
from the time it is pulled to the time that it goes to the 
miU. From a return made to the Government, he found 
that 175,000 acres were under flax this year ; and that, 
on the estimate he had just made, it would appear that 
this breadth of flax would give a year's employment to 
56,000 persons, the wages of whom would be about a 
million of pounds sterling. There was no one crop which 
could be said to afford an amount of employment at all 
like that : and it should be borne in mind that this calcu- 
lation was made on the supposition of the scutch mill being 
used ; but, if they were to use the hand-scutching system, 
they would have a great many more persons employed." 

The same nobleman, speaking of the value of the crop 
to the farmer, remarked that " the crop was a paying one, 
and he could say, that on his own property, in the County 
Donegal, the people always preferred the flax crop. They 
sometimes got £15 for the flax on foot, and it was con- 
sidered that, taking the seed at twenty bushels, and the 
price at 5s. or 6s., the owners have a return of upwards of 



328 BELFAST, 

£20 for an acre of flax, without any trouble further than 
sowing it." "With regard to the exports, we learn from the 
report presented by the able secretary Mr. Macadam, that 
flax and tow are on the increase. 

The report also states, that " it is most gratifying to 
observe that since 1850 the export from Ireland of the 
raw material has increased from 3166 tons to 9004 tons, 
notwithstanding the very large additions during that period 
to the Irish flax-spinning trade, and the consequent increase 
of home consumption. There can be little doubt that, as 
the growth of this crop continues to extend in Ireland, the 
export of its fibre will also increase, not only for the supply 
of English and Scotch spinners, but also for those of the 
Continent." 

The Belfast Bank is at the corner of Waring and 
Donegal Streets, directly opposite the Commercial Buildings. 
The entrance is in Eoman Doric ; the windows are guarded 
by Corinthian columns ; a fine cornice supports the para- 
pet. Notwithstanding the mixture of Doric and Corinthian, 
the exterior presents an elegant appearance. The cash office 
is very spacious, and has been compared to that in the 
Bank of Ireland, Dublin. It is sixty feet in length, by 
about thirty wide, acd thirty-six in height. On the site 
of the present building formerly stood a plain inelegant 
structure known as the "Old Exchange," erected in 1769 
by the Earl of Donegal at a cost of £4000. 

Presbyterian Church, Kosemary Street, is the hand- 
somest church belonging to that denomination in Belfast. 
A flight of twenty steps leads to a handsome portico, com- 
posed of ten Doric coluiians, over which rises an elaborate 
balustrade. The internal decorations are quite in keeping 
with the exterior of the church, which cost .£10,000. In 
Belfast there are twenty-eight congregations of Presby- 
terians, eighteen of Episcopalians, lave of Catholics, and 
three of Unitarians. The Presbyterian Church of Ireland, 
founded in the year 1642, was planned on the model of the 
Scotch Presbyterian Church. Many years ago, however, 
a division took place in the bocfy, in consequence of a re- 



PUBLIC BUILDINGS. 329 

solution of the majority to compel all their ministers to 
sign the Westminster Confession of Faith. The minority 
who seceded are known as Eemonstrants. In the census 
of 1871, Belfast showed a large preponderance of Pro- 
testants — the Protestant population being 118,868, while 
the Catholics numbered only 55,502. Of the former 
60,811 were Presbyterians. 

The Provincial Bank, in Hercules Place, erected in 
1869, is a very handsome structure in the Venetian style 
of architecture, built of white Cookstown stone, and erected 
at a cost of £18,000. 

The New Theatre Royal, Arthur Street, which 
was opened in 1871, has a very elegant front. Nearly 
opposite the Theatre is the Masonic Hall, erected in 1870. 

The Ulster Bank, in Waring Street, is one of the 
handsomest buildings in the city. It is built of polished 
red sandstone, and has an attractive front, supported by 
twelve Doric columns below, and sixteen above, surmounted 
by a pediment, in the tympannm of which are the arms 
of Ireland and Ulster. The interior is fitted with a dome, 
whose windows contain stained-glass portraits of several 
eminent men. This building forms the head office of the 
Company, which has a capital of .£1,000,000, and does a 
large business in Belfast. 

The New Custom House, Post Office, etc. — This 
fine structure is one of the largest in Belfast, and occupies 
an area obtained by extensive clearances and improvements, 
between the lower extremity of High Street and Albert 
Square. The building was commenced towards the close of 
1854, and finished in 1857. It is constructed entirely of 
the finest Glasgow stone, and the style of architecture is 
Italian, or Palladian. The edifice occupies three sides of a 
quadrangle, with a large conrt-yard inside, approached by 
a flight of steps on the fourth side. It affords ample 
accomodation for various public services, including under 
the same roof a Custom House, a Post Office, an Inland 
Eevenue Office, a Stamp Office, and an office for the Board 
of Local Marine. The principal front faces the river, and 



330 BEI.5'4ST. 

the main portion of tMs part of the edifice is used as the 
Custom House. The side, or wings facing High Street, 
includes the Post Office and the Local Marine Office. In 
the opposite wing are the Inland Eevenue Office and Stamp 
Office. The space devoted to the business of the Custom 
House is much larger in proportion to that required by the 
other offices, and it is in this department that the principal 
room of the building is placed — namely the " Long Eoom," 
which is 70 feet in length by 30 in width, and 25 in height. 
In the spandrils of the arches of the grand staircase are 
four sculptured figures, designed by Samuel Lynn, Esq., of 
London, and executed by Messrs. Fitzpatrick of Belfast, 
representing Manufacture, Peace, Commerce, and Industry. 
The tympanum of the pediment is filled with an emblematic 
design of Britannia, supported on one side by Neptune, and 
the other by Mercury. 

The Northern Bane, in High Street, is a handsome 
square building, with a large telling-room, opposite the 
Albert Memorial clock-tower. This very elegant struc- 
ture is a conspicuous object in the town, rising 147 feet in 
height and terminating in a handsome bell-turret spire. 
The dials of the clock are 10 feet in diameter. A statue 
of the Prince occupies a niche in the shaft of the tower. 

St. Ann's Parish Church, in Donegal Street, is a good 
building. It was erected by the Marquis of Donegal in 
1776. The building is striking on account of the admixture 
of its architecture. The portico is in the Doric style, the 
tower in the Ionic, and the cupola Corinthian. 

The Harbour Office, at the head of Clarendon Dock, 
is an imposing edifice, built of the finest Glasgow stone 

The Flax Mills and Linen Warehouses, especially 
those in Donegal Square, will naturally attract the visitor's 
attention. The Mills are situated in all parts of the town, 
and ready access can be obtained to most of them. That 
of the York Street Spinning Company, in Henry Street, at 
the north of the town, is one of the most extensive in the 
kingdom. The interminable hum of myriads of spindles, 
and the subdued sound of the machinery, together with t,^« 



PUBLIC BUILDINGS. 331 

light and airy appearance of tlie rooms, and qniet and 
orderly behaviour of the hands employed, appear at first 
sight to be entirely a new feature in Ireland. 

In Ireland we find the first spinning factory was established in 1806, 
and consisted of only 212 spindles, adapted for canvas yarns. The Linen 
Board, by a bounty of 30s. per spindle, succeeded in causing the establish- 
ment of several others, which in 1809, in the aggregate, contained 6369 
spindles. In 1815 there were in Ulster five mills, the largest having 1204, 
and the smallest 300 spindles ; in Leinster two mills, and in Munster, 
seven, only one of which was in full operation, 0"\ving to the depression of 
trade at that period. In 1841 we find that there were forty-one mills, 
containing 280,000 spindles ; in 1850 the number had increased to seventy- 
three mills, ^vith 339,00 spindles; and in 1852 there were not less than 
eighty-one mills, having about 600,000 spindles in operation, representing 
an amount of capital of between three and four millions sterling. The 
number of factories has now increased to about 160, employing about 
60,000 persons. The York Street Spinning Company, formerly the firm of 
Mulhollands, employs nearly 3000 hands, and has generally £100,000 worth 
of flax in the course of manipulation. 

The Artillery Barrack is a commodious pile in 
North Queen Street, not far from 

The Infantry Barrack. Either of these establish- 
ments may be visited by the curious in military affairs, 
but they present little attraction for the majority of 
visitors. 

The Belfast Charitable Society's House, stands 
at a short distance from the Barracks, and fronts Donegal 
Street. It was erected in 1774 for the reception of aged 
and infirm persons and poor children, and is supported by 
annual subscriptions, bequests, and donations. The spire 
of this building is a conspicuous object from many parts of 
the town. In Carlisle Circus, near the Charitable Society's 
House, is St. Enoch's Presbyterian Church, erected in 
1872. This church wiU seat fuUy 2300 people. It is 
built in the French Gothic style, and presents an imposing 
appearance. A prominent feature in the building is the 
spire, which rises to a height of 125 feet. 

Trinity Church is not a great way from the Chari- 
table Society's House. It is a moderately sized building, 
with a handsome square tower, terminated with an octagonal 
spire. Its erection is due to the liberality of William Wil- 



332 BELFAST. 

son, Esq., and Ms sister. Well-executed scnlptnre ornaments 
all tlie details of tlie building. It was erected in 1843. 

The Gaol, built of red stone, is a new building on tbe 
Crumlin Eoad, at tbe north-west of the town, having been 
opened so recently as 1846. Carrickfergus was until a few 
years since the county town, and formerly contained the 
County Gaol. The present structure is large and commodi- 
ous, being capable of containing so many as three hundred 
prisoners. Extensive yards are attached to the prison. 

The Court-House is also a new building, and is right 
opposite the gaol. It was opened in 1850. In front is 
a handsome hexastyle portico, composed of Corinthian 
columns. The tympanum of the pediment contains the 
royal arms. On the apex of the pediment is an emblem- 
atical figure of Justice, from the chisel of Kirke of Dublin. 
The internal arrangements are admirable. The public hall, 
in which candidates for the city's suffrage address the 
electors, is a noble apartment. The lower portion is 
built in the Doric style, while the upper portion exhibits 
the foliated Corinthian. The hall is about thirty-fivB feet 
in height by forty-seven wide each way. The court-rooms 
are well arranged, adequate space being allowed for the 
accommodation of the public. 

St. Patrick's Eoman Catholic Chapel is a very 
plain edifice at the northern end of Donegal Street. 

KoYAL Academical Institution, and Government 
School of Art. — In the centre of a "large square, not far 
from the Ulster Eailway terminus, stands the old College, 
a large pile of buildings occupied as such before the found- 
ing of Queen's College, but now only used as the home of 
the Eoyal Academical Institution and the Government 
School of Art. The building is plain, but respectable in 
appearance. It was erected in 1800. The School of Art 
was re-opened in 1870, after having been closed for nearly 
seventeen years. The Statue Gallery and Lecture Rooms 
are replete with everything calculated to promote the 
efficiency of the School. The academical classes are Eng- 
lish, writing, mathematics, classics, French, and drawing. 



PUBLIC BUILDINGS. 333 

Christ Church is also within the square. It faces the 
north, with an Ionic colonnade. It is calculated to accom- 
modate 1600 sitters, and was erected at a cost of £5000. 
Of this sum we are told that £3000 was raised by volun- 
tary subscription. 

On the east side of College Square is a well-executed 
bronze statue by McDowell, of the late Earl of Belfast, 
who died in 1853, aged 26. It is on a graceful pedestal, 
which bears a suitable inscription. 

Belfast Museum. — This building is on the north side 
of College Square. It is built after classic models, and 
displays much good taste in the execution of the design. 
The internal arrangements of the museum are good, and 
highly creditable to the enterprise of the shareholders. 
There is a very rich collection of Irish antiquities, a 
tolerable geological collection, and a series of ornithological 
specimens. The remarks of Mr. Kohl on the museum are 
not only just but generous. 

**Tlie museum of Belfast," he writes, "contains many interesting Irish 
antiquities found in the neighbourhood, and also many natural curiosities ; 
but the traveller seeks in vain for what he must most desire and expect in 
this place — I mean a complete, well-arranged, satisfactory, and instruc- 
tive collection of geological andmineralogical specimens, illustrative of the 
Giant's Causeway and the other interesting volcanic formations, which 
render the whole northern coast of Ireland so remarkable. Every provincial 
museum has its own particular task to fulfil, since each is generally par- 
ticularly qualified by its geographical position to promote the investigation 
of some one important branch of natural history." ** Some specimens," he 
adds, " of this coast are indeed found in the Belfast museums ; but in vain 
we ask after a complete collection of all the volcanic materials of which the 
northern coast consists, or for an arrangement of them in the natural order 
in which they are found, or for a correct model in wood or plaster of the 
Giant's Causeway, or of the whole northern coast, none of which ought to 
be wanting in a place like Belfast." 

The building was erected in 1830. A little way from 
College Square, at the end of Howard Street, is another 

Presbyterian Church, Fisherwick Place. — This place 
of worship was opened in 1827 by the highly gifted 
Chalmers. It is a chaste structure capable of seating 
1700. The prevailing style is Ionic. The pillars of the 
doorway are especially beautiful. 



334 BELFAST. 

St. Malachy's Roman Catholic Chapel was opened 
in 1844. It may appear strange that this chapel should 
be built in the Tudor style, yet such is the case. The 
internal arrangements, too, are not the same as in other 
chapels belonging to this denomination. The plan is cer- 
tainly cruciform, but the altar is placed at the side. 
There is a splendid tablet of marble in the chancel to the 
memory of Captain Griffiths, who left £5000 for the 
chapel. 

The Len^en Hall, occupying the centre of Donegall 
Square, is a good building, erected in 1 7 1 5 at a cost of 
£10,000. The site was kindly granted by the then Earl 
of Donegal. The building consists of brick, is quad- 
rangular, and two storeys in height. Surrounding the hall 
are well planted grounds. The linen trade being almost 
exclusively sustained by Ulster, it was found inconvenient 
to have the business conducted by agents in Dublin, in 
consequence of which the Linen Hall arose. It would 
seem strange that one of the most illiberal pieces of policy 
ever practised by England to Ireland was that which gave 
the first decided impulse to the linen trade. "In 1698, 
both Houses of Parliament addressed his Majesty (William 
III.), representing that the progress of the woollen manu- 
facture of Ireland was such as to predjudice that of this 
country, and that it would be for the public advantage, 
were the former discouraged, and the linen manufacture 
established in its stead. His Majesty replied, * I shall do 
all that in me lies to discourage the woollen manufacture in 
Ireland, and encourage the linen manufacture, and to pro- 
mote the trade of England.' " ^ The introduction of 
machinery for washing, etc., in 1725, and the more recent 
improvements in bleaching, have given a wonderful 
impetus to the trade. " A good deal of the Belfast linen 
is still woven, at handlooms in the cottages of the peasantry, 
but power-loom weaving, or that of machinery, is more and 
more trenching on their domains." t 

* MacCulloch's Dictionary of Commerce. t Kohl's Ireland, 



PUBLIC BUILDINGS. 335 

Ulster Hall, in Bedford-street, was erected in 1862 
as a concert-room and a hall for public meetings. It lias 
a portico, supported by six CorintMan columns, for the 
reception of carriages. The hall, which is seated with 
chairs for 3000 people, contains a powerful organ, and is 
fitted up with all the modem improvements. 

The Music Hall, in Arthur Street, is an attractive 
building in the Doric style of architecture. It was erected 
in 1839. Parties complain of the heavy appearance of 
the building, but it ought to be remembered that Grecian 
Doric structures must necessarily have a solid aspect. 

St. George's Church, in High Street, was erected on 
the site of a church of much older date, which had been 
removed in 1774. This older edifice, once known as the 
Corporation Church, was raised on the ruins of an old 
baronial hall. The portico is very chaste. Six elegant 
columns and four pilasters support a fine pediment, in tho 
tympanum of which are the arms of the sees of BeKast and 
Down and Connor, in alto-relievo. When the Earl of 
Bristol held the see of Derry, this portico graced a splendid 
palace built by him on the shores of Lough Beg. At his 
death, the Bishop of Down and Connor, Dr. Alexander, 
purchased and presented it to St. George's Church. 

Queen's Bridge spans the river not far from the 
terminus of the County Down Railway. It occupies the 
place of " the Great Bridge of Belfast," which was founded 
in 1682, and considerably damaged in 1689 by Schomberg's 
cannon passing over it. The old Bridge consisted of 
twenty-one arches, one-third of which fell in 1692. The 
present erection, opened in 1841, well deserves notice ; it 
is not only elegant in appearance, but substantial and com- 
modious. There are five arches of fifty feet span each. 
The roadway is good and perfectly level, the width being 
forty feet 

Queen's College is gained by the Botanic Garden 
Road and Albion Place. It is a handsome brick building 
pointed with stone. The tower, which rises to a height 
of 100 feet is a continuation of the chief doorway. The 



336 BELFAST. 

entire length of tlie buildirig is 600 feet ; it consists of a 
centre of 300 feet, and two wings, each 150 feet. The 
halls, lecture rooms, museums, and other apartments, are 
spacious and well lighted. The architecture is in the Per- 
pendicular style, and has a fine rich appearance, owing to 
the judicious arrangement of bright red brick and polished 
stone. The college was opened in 1849 — the president. 
Dr. Henry, delivering the inaugural address. In the first 
session there were 175 students in Queen's College, Bel- 
fast — a number exceeding the sum of Cork and Gal way 
added together. The same rules as to scholarships and 
other matters in the regulation of the internal arrange- 
ments are common to the three colleges. On the opening 
of the Queen's College, the old college was closed, and it 
is interesting to know that some of the chairs in the 
former were filled up by professors from the latter. 

The Presbyterian College is an elegant struc- 
ture, occupying a site at the extremity of University 
Square, and facing the Botanic Eoad. It was opened by 
Dr. Merle D'Aubigne in 1853, for the instruction of the 
theological students of the General Assembly. It is pre- 
sided over by the President and the other members of the 
Assembly's Theological Faculty, who, previous to the 
passing of the Irish Church Bill, were endowed by the 
Government with salaries of .£250 a year each. The 
Institution was wholly erected by the voluntary contribu- 
tions of the Presbyterian body, in accordance with the 
Assembly's resolutions agreed to at Cookstown in 1844, 
and its management is entirely under the Assembly's 
control. 

The Methodist College, which was opened in 1868, 
stands on a rising ground nearly opposite the Botanic 
Gardens. It was erected at a cost of X25,000. It com- 
prises a longitudinal range of buildings with two projecting 
wings, and in architectural design and appearance will bear 
favourable comparison with any of the public edifices in 
Belfast. This institution affords a theological training to 
candidates for the Ministry in the Wesleyan Church ; and 



PUBLIC BUILDINGS. 337 

there is also a collegiate department in which Wesleyan 
students attending the Queen's College, can be provided 
with chambers, as well as a department embracing a 
boarding and day seminary conducted under competent 
masters. 

The Model School was erected by the Commis- 
sioners of National Education in Ireland, as one of their 
district model schools in Belfast, in a large area of unoc- 
cupied space on the Falls Eoad, opposite Ardmoulin Place. 
The structure was completed and opened in May 1857, 
and is of large dimensions. Its style of architecture is the 
Elizabethan, and the material is the fine red brick manu- 
factured in the neighbourhood, the dressings of the win- 
dows, etc., being in the best Caen stone. The principal 
fa9ade is lii7 feet in length, and the length of the sides, 
or flanks, is 117 feet. There are also many National 
Schools in the town and neighbourhood of Belast, besides 
schools under the patronage of the Church Education 
Society. 

The Botanic Garden is a little way beyond the 
College. Tlie principal conservatory is of iron, with 
arched roof ; the appearance is light and airy ; wliile the 
material employed and the design give a solidity which 
could never be suspected by the cursory observer. Here 
will be found the cypress and the arbutus growing in the 
open air, although the latter is not indigenous to the north 
of Ireland. The garden also contains a fine collection of 
the heaths found in the Irish bogs, among which are many 
large and fine specimens. It is the property of a number 
of shareholders, who annually elect twenty-one proprietors 
to manage the affairs of the society. The price of admission 
is 6d. 

The People's Park, Ormean Eoad, which was pur- 
chased by the Corporation in 1870, for the benefit of the 
inhabitants, is a very extensive piece of ground, well 
covered with fine trees, and is laid out with much taste. 
The admission is free. 

The Hospital of the Deaf, Dumb, and Blind, on the 



333 BELFAST. 

Dublin Eoad, is also at tlie soutli end of the town. The 
building is 220 feet wide. It is two storeys high, and in 
the Elizabethan style. It was opened for the reception of 
inmates in 1845. 

Many other objects in the city might be pointed out as 
worth the tourist's notice, such as the new Presbyterian 
Church, Fitzroy Avenue ; St. James's Church, and Duncairn 
Church, Antrim Road ; St. Thomas's Church, Lisburn Road ; 
Elmwood Church, Botanic Road, and other chapels, 
the quays, the railway termini, and the handsome streets, 
but such an enumeration would lead too much into detail, 
and tend to confuse the reader. If the stranger wishes, 
however, to gain a bird's-eye view of the city and its 
environs, he should pay a visit to 

Cave Hill, about three miles north of the town, rising 
1140 feet above the sea level. It is chiefly interesting on 
account of its geological structure, being composed of 
limestone and basalt, the latter superimposed on the for- 
mer. The view of Belfast Lough from Cave Hill, so called 
from three caves in it, is exceedingly fine, commanding the 
whole of Belfast Lough, the greater part of the County 
Down, and in clear weather the coast of Scotland. At its 
base is MacGill House. An agreeable drive may be taken 
to the hill by following the Carrickfergus turnpike to the 
cross road to the left, and returning by Clifton Hill. 
Another delightful drive is to the 

Giant's Ring, situated about four miles from Belfast, 
in the neighbourhood of Ballylesson. The scenery is very 
charming, and the Giant's Ring is one of the most interest- 
ing works of antiquity to be found in Ireland, and one 
which no tourist should omit to visit. It consists of an 
enormous circle, more than one-third of a mile in circumfer- 
ence. This vast ring is enclosed by an immense mound of 
earth about 80 feet broad and of so great a height that a 
person standing inside can see only the enclosure and the 
sky. Near the centre of the circle stands a large crom- 
lech or stone altar. 



339 



EXCUESIONS FEOM BELFAST. 

Where there are so many objects of interest around a 
city as there are here, it is difficult to lay down any set 
routes without either omitting some places or burdening 
the description. 

The only plan we can adopt in this case is to classify 
the various places under three main routes, arranging them 
alphabetically as follows : — 

1. Belfast to Bundalk, page 340. 
By Ulster Eailway, Victoria Street Station. 



Armagh 
Carlingford , 


Page 

. 340 
. 341 


Hillsborough 
Lisbuni 


Page 
. 343 
. 343 


Portadown . 
Rosstrevor . 


Pag« 
. 846 
. 346 


Dundalk . 


. 342 


Lurgan 
Newry . 


. 344 
. 344 


Warrenpoint 


. 346 



2. Belfast to Donaghadee and Newcastle, page 348. 

By Bangor and County Down Eailway s, from Queen's 
Bridcje Station. 



Page 
Ardglass . . 349 
Ballinahinch . 349 
Bangor and Holy- 
wood . . 349 
Bryansford . . 358 



Page 
Castle Wellan . 350 
Donaghadee . 351 
Downpatrick . 352 
Dundrum . . 353 



Pag* 

Grey Abbey . 354 
Killyleagh . . 355 
Mourne Mountains 359 
Newcastle . . 356 
Newtown-Ards . 464 



3. Belfast to the Giant's Causeway, page 365. 
By Northern Counties Eailway — station, end of York Street 





Page 




Page 




Pa«e 


Antrim 


. 369 


Coleraine . 


374 


Portstewart 


. 374 


BaUymena . 


. 373 


Dunluce Castle . 


375 


Randalstown 


. 373 


Bushmills . 


. 377 


Giant's Causeway 


378 


Shane's Castle 


. 371 


CSEirrickfergus 


. 366 


Greencastle . 


366 


Templepatrick 


. 368 


Castlerock . 


. 374 


Lough Neagh 


369 


White Abbey 


. 366 


Cave Hill . 


. 338 


Portrush 


375 


White Rocks 


. 375 



By the Coast Eoad via Lame and Glenarm. See page 387. 



340 

BELFAST TO DUNDALK. 
Places of Interest in Alphabetical Arrangement. 



Armagh. 


Hillsborongh. 


Portadown. 


Carlingford. 


Lisburn. 


Rosstrevor. 


Dundalk. 


Lurgan. 
Newry. 


Warrenpoint. 



AEMAGH (Beresford Arms Hotel), 36 m. from Belfast 
the county town, was formerly a celebrated city. Its 
name, Ard-Macha, " tlie Hill of Macha," is derived from 
one of tkree heroines so called in old Irish stories. One 
of these (the most probable) " founded the palace of 
Emania, three centuries before the Christian era, and was 
the only queen who ever wielded the sceptre of Ireland !" 
She was killed in battle, and buiied here. " An elliptical 
entrenchment, called the Navan Fort^^ about two miles 
west of the city, encloses a space of about twelve acres, and 
represents a regal abode of extreme antiquity. 

St. Patrick came to preach the gospel in Ireland about 
the year 432 ; and about twenty- j&ve years after, he founded 
the church of Armagh. 

The earliest church built here was probably only con- 
structed with wattles and clay, but in 1268 the Primate 
O'Scannail commenced, on its site, the " Tempull Mor," or 
" Great Church." It was burned, however, by Shane 
O'Neill, towards the close of the 1 6th century, and repaired 
by Primate Hampton, about 1620 : again burned by Sir 
Phelim O'Neill in 1642, and continued in a ruinous state 
till Primate Margetson restored it about 1675. The ex- 
pression of Harris (Ware's Bishops), " the rebuilding this 
at his own expense," etc., has led some writers to suppose 
that the present building is a comparatively new structure. 
But, in fact, the Cathedral of Armagh is the shell of the 
old church erected about 1270, restored from ruin and 
strengthened, but having aU its ancient architectural features 
either retained or reproduced. It was thus restored about 



CARLINGFORD. 341 

twenty -five years ago, by the late venerable Primate. The 
cost of restoration is supposed to have been £32,000, of 
which £23,000 was given by his Grace himself. Armagh 
is one of the metropolitan sees of Ireland ; Dublin being 
the other ; but the Archbishop of Armagh is Primate 
of all Ireland. There is a second church in Armagh, St. 
Mark's ; and a very handsome Catholic Cathedral, besides 
three Presbyterian Churches, and places of worship for 
Independents, Methodists, etc. 

The town of Armagh, viewed from whatever point, is 
one of great beauty. Built on a hill which rises in the 
midst of a vale, its apparent elevation being much increased 
by its ancient cathedral crowning the mass of houses, the 
effect produced is peculiarly pleasing. Nor does it lose 
anything on a closer inspection. The streets are actually 
flagged with marble, and the newer houses are built of the 
same material. The orderly appearance of the town, the 
pleasant walks in its neighbourhood, and the thrifty business- 
like aspect of the inhabitants, will interest the tourist, 
even if the historical associations have no charm for him. 
The city owes much of its claim to modern distinction to 
the munificence of Primate Kobinson, Lord Eokeby, who 
held the see from 1765 to 1794. 

The Observatory, beautifully situated on a hill to the 
north-east of the town, was built and endowed by Primate 
Eobinson in 1789, and the Library, with about 13,000 
volumes, is another of that Primate's foundations. There 
is also a Eoyal School, and all the buildings proper to a 
county town. Armagh returns one member to Parliament, 

CAELINGFORD, on the south side of Carlingford Bay, 
is about 6 miles from Warrenpoint station, and has a 
fair hotel. The town is small, and chiefly famous for the 
oyster trade and deep-sea fishing in the vicinity. Carling- 
ford Castle, attributed to King John, is a fine old ruin 
overlooking the water. 

In the town also are the remains of two other ancient 



S42 BUNDALK. 

buildings, on tlie walls of which, are some very curious 
devices carved in the stone. One of these buildings is 
called the Hospital, and is attributed to the Knights of St 
John. Outside the town there are also the ruins of a fine 
Abbey, which stand in a picturesque situation under the 
craggy mountain that overhangs the town. 

DUNDALK (Arthur's Hotel), 58 m. from Belfast and 
about half way to Dublin, is situated upon a low flat 
expanse of marshy ground, at the head of the magnificent 
bay which bears its name, and consists of one long street 
intersected by several smaller ones. The chief public 
edifices are the old Parish Church, a handsome Eoman 
Catholic chapel, Presbyterian and Methodist meeting- 
liouses, the National Bank, and the Commercial Buildings — 
the latter containing a public hall. About one mile from 
the town is the Union Workhouse. The harbour has been 
improved of late years, so that vessels drawing 16 feet 
water can now come up to the quays, where the channel is 
about 150 feet in width. The rise of the tide at the bar 
is 1 6 feet, and at the bridge 7 feet. The trade at Dundalk 
is in a very flourishing condition ; steamers sail for Liver- 
pool, a distance of 153 miles, three times a week — fare, 
10s. The town contains a distillery, two breweries, a flax 
mill, two flour mills, and a pin manufactory. It is an 
ancient town, and has been fortified, though now dismantled, 
as may be seen by the ruins of the walls. This was the 
last town in Ireland where a monarch was crowned and 
resided in royal splendour. 

After the decisive victory of BannocklDum had placed Scottish indepen- 
dence beyond the grasp of England, the Irish, desirous to participate in the 
advantages of freedom, requested the Scots to come over to their assistance, 
at the same time oflering the crown to Edward, brother of Robert Bruce. 
He landed with six thousand men, and being joined by the Ulster Irish, set 
about destroying the English settlers. Having stormed and taken Dundalk, 
he was crowned, and resided here for two years. In 1318, Bruce was killed 
on the hill of Foighard, near Dundalk, in an engagement with the English. 
" The armies met near Dundalk, and previously to the engagement, the 
prelate of Armagh went through the ranks of the English, inflaming their 



HILLSBOROUGH ANr> LISBURN. 343 

ralour by his exhortations, distrihuting his henedictions, and pronouncing 
his absolution on all who should perish in so good a cause. The shock of 
the encountering hosts was furious in the extreme, and the combat long 
maintained on both sides with desperate valour ; but the Scots were at length 
discomfited, with dreadful carnage, and Edward Bruce finished on the field 
of battle his inglorious career, by the arm of a knight named Maupus, who 
had rushed for that purpose into the enemy's ranks, and fell by many 
wounds on the body of his antagonist." * 

TTie town was held in 1649 bj Monk for the king, 
and in 1689 for James II., but was taken without resist- 
ance by Schomberg. Dundalk demesne, the seat of Lord 
Roden, is open to visitors. The mansion is a tnrreted 
building of attractive appearance, and the grounds are well 
laid out. One avenue, half a mile in length, is completely 
canopied by the foliage. Half a day may also be very 
pleasantly spent in the neighbourhood of Dundalk, on the 
expansive bay. If a day can be spared, a boat may be 
taken to Eiverstown, whence the tourist may walk across 
to Carlingford, and thence by boat cross Carlingford Bay 
to Rosstrevor. 

HILLSBOROUGH {Hotel: Corporation Arms), 12 m. 
from Belfast and 4 m. south of Lisburn, on the Banbridge 
and Lisburn railway, is a small town, adjoining which are 
the demesne and residence of the Marquis of Downshire. 
There is a handsome church here, with a fine tower and spire, 
erected in 1774 by the first Marquis, then Earl of Hills- 
borough. In the park is an old castle, with square towers 
at the angles, standing on one side of a rectangular court- 
yard, with ramparts and towers ; remarkable as being the 
resting-place of King William III. on his way to the Boyne. 

LISBURN (Hertford Arms Hotel), 7|- m. from Belfast, 
formerly Lisnegarvey, a new town, burned down early in 
the last century and subsequently rebuilt, and consisting 
of one principal street and a large market-place. In the 
middle of this is a Market-House and Assembly-Room ; 

* Gordon's History of Ireland, 



344 LtlKGAN. 

and on tlie east side is tlie entrance to the Parisli Clmrcli, 
with a high and graceful spire. This church was, by 
letters patent of King Charles II., constituted the Cathedral 
of Down and Connor ; the Cathedral of Down being then 
ruinous, and that of Connor destroyed. In the church is 
a monument to the learned and estimable Jeremy Taylor, 
who held the see of Down, of Connor, and also of Dromore, 
from 1660 to 1667. A native of Cambridge, where his 
father had been a barber, he was put to college as a sizar, 
and became Fellow of All Saints' College, Oxford. He 
came to Ireland with Lord Conway, and after the Kestora- 
tion was made bishop, and also vice-chanceUor of the 
University of Dublin. 

The church also contains a monument to the memory 
of Lieutenant Dobbs, who was killed off the Irish coast in 
an engagement with the pirate Paul Jones ; and another 
to that of the gallant Brigadier-General John Nicholson, 
who fell at the head of the column of attack on the walls 
of Delhi, in 1857. 

Lisburn sends one member to Parliament. In the vicinity 
is found a stone similar in appearance and qualities to the 
celebrated lithographic oolite of Solenhofen. It appears, 
however, to be an altered chalk, and is rather brittle. 

LURGAN, 20 m. from Belfast, is a very neat clean 
town in the north-east corner of the County Armagh. It 
gives the title of Baron to the family of Brownlow, whose 
beautiful demesne adjoining the town is open to visitors. 
The linen trade is carried on briskly in the town. A little 
way beyond Lurgan the railway crosses a small portion of 
the County Down, at Moira. The line at this point also 
skirts the corner of Lough Neagh, which will be more 
properly described hereafter, 

NEWRY (Victoria Hotel), 44 m. from Belfast, is gained 
by a junction on the Drogheda Railway. The glimpse of 
the town obtained in passing is one which will not be 



NEWRY. 345 

easily forgotten. Situated in tlie vale of tlie river Newry, 
with hills on either side, and within a few miles of the 
lovely bay of CarHngford, the streets rising tier above tier, 
the picturesque situation of the Old Church, and the tall 
chimneys and factories, give an appearance at once novel 
and interesting to the view. Upon nearer inspection, 
however, the town is found to be dull, and in general 
irregularly built, with some good shops and handsome 
buildings on the low ground along the river, and altogether 
much improved since the witty Dean Swift described the 
town as consisting of 

** High church, low steeple, 
Dirty streets, and proud people." 

The older portion of the town is built upon the steep slope 
of the high ground upon the eastern side of the river, in 
the county of Down, and connected, by means of four stone 
bridges, with the smaller and more modern portion which 
is on the other side of the river, and in the county of 
Armagh. The port of Newry admits vessels of 1000 tons 
to Warrenpoint, 6|- miles below the town, where the large 
vessels remain, while those drawing not more than 15 feet 
of water can go up by the ship-canal to Newry. Steamers 
ply regularly thrice a week betwixt Newry and Liverpool, 
a distance of 153 miles — fare 10s. The rise of the towTi 
may be traced to the 16th century, when Sir Nicholas 
Bagnal, Marshall of Ireland, rebuilt it, erecting at the same 
time a church and castle. There is no doubt, however, of 
the existence of the town at a much earlier date, seeing 
that an abbey for Cistercian moiiks, of which nothing now 
remains, was founded in it in 1 1 5 7, by Maurice MacLaugh- 
lin, king of Ireland. At the Dissolution, the powers and 
privileges enjoyed by the Lord Abbot were transferred to 
the temporal proprietor, Sir Nicholas Bagnal. The present 
owner of the lordship of Newry is the Earl of Kilmorey, 
who has power to grant marriage-licences, and aU the 
plenary powers of the Ecclesiastical Courts. A granite 
obelisk stands at the east end of the town, erected to th© 
late Trevor Corry by his fellow townsmen. 



346 ROSSTREYOR. 

PORTADOWN"^ 25 m. from Belfast, is a smaU town 
advantageously situated for trade on tlie upper river Bann, 
which is here navigable by vessels of 60 tons burden, 
and communicates with the Newry Canal, near the town. 
The river falls into Lough Neagh, about 7 miles below 
the town, and from thence, by means of the Ulster Canal, 
merchandise can be conveyed to Enniskillen. Here also a 
branch line proceeds in a south-western direction to 
Armagh, about 10 miles distant, and another to Dun- 
gannon and Omagh. 

ROSSTREYOR, the " Montpelier of Ireland," is but 
3 miles from Warrenpoint station, and has a good 
hotel. Rosstrevor took its present name on passing into 
the possession of the Trevors, from the name of its new 
proprietors, and the Irish word EosSj which signifies a 
headland ; or, according to some authorities, from an heiress 
whose name was Rose marrying into the family of Trevors, 
Viscounts of Dungannon. The town is situated on the ris- 
ing ground overlooking the bay, with a background of 
mountains, in a most beautiful neighbourhood, well 
wooded and plentifully sprinkled with villas. In the 
market-place is a handsome church. 

On the beach, with a background of rough mountain, 
rises an obelisk with an appropriate inscription to the 
memory of General Ross, a native of Rosstrevor, who fell 
at the battle of Baltimore in 1814. 

The chief attraction at Rosstrevor is the bay, which all 
the way from Warrenpoint has the appearance of a spacious 
lake, in the midst of woods and mountains. " Clough 
More," or the great stone, an immense granite boulder, 
stands on a projecting shoulder of the hill above the town, 
where an extensive view may be obtained. The ascent to 
it may be made from near the quay. 

WARRENPOINT {Hotels: Victoria and Crown ; Royal. 
Cars to Kilkeel, to Newcastle, and to Rostrevor), 5 m. 
from Newry by rail, is delightfully situated at the very 



WARRENPOINT. 347 

head of Carlingford Bay. It is a favourite bathing-station, 
with pure clear water, a gently shelving shore covered 
with small round pebbles, free from mud or sea-weed, and 
a beautiful neighbourhood. In one part the houses form a 
little square, and in another stretch along the edge of the 
shore, where there is a convenient quay, at which there 
are in general several sailing and steam vessels. There 
was formerly a very extensive rabbit-warren here, from 
which circumstance the place derives its name. 

Narrow Water Castle stands on the road between 
Warrenpoint and Newry, 2 m. from the former. The 
broad surface of the river is here contracted by a low pro- 
truding rock, once an island, on whose surface stands the 
old castle , in a position that enables it to command, in the 
most entire manner, the only pass to the town of Newry. 
The date of its foundation is not precisely known, but was 
subsequent to the Eestoration, and its erection is ascribed 
to the Duke of Ormonde. The position of the castle is 
strikingly picturesque. On a rocky mound in the river 
its square keep rises like a solitary sentinel, amid a happy 
combination of wood, water, and mountain. Narrow "Water 
Castle was looked upon as the key to Newry, and from its 
position was well calculated either for the purpose of 
defence or exaction of toll. It was subsequently let to a 
salt-manufacturer, and at a still later period used as a dog- 
kennel ; but the good taste of the present proprietor has 
restored it to its original appearance, and made it an effec- 
tive feature in the landscape. A causeway had been formed 
to connect it with the shore, and so admirably had this 
work been accomplished, that several engineers of eminence, 
when consulted as to the practicability of its removal, de- 
clared it to be a natural formation. On the rising ground 
to the right of the old castle stands a modern turreted 
castle, in the Tudor style, erected by Eoger Hall, Esq 
The avenue leading to this house is two miles long, and 
overshadowed with fine timber. 



348 



BELFAST TO NEWCASTLE. 

RAILWAY ITINERARY 
To Bangor, Donaghadee, Downpatrick, and Newcastle. 



Saintfield House, 
seat of J. C. Price, 



^ 3 m. BallmaMncli 
Montalto demesne, D. 
S. Ker, Esq., M.P. 



2 m. south. 
. P. 349. 



The 



2 m. west. Ruins of 
Abbey of Inch. P. 362. 



S:S' 2 m, Seaforde 
House, Lt.-CoL Forde. 



Belfast. 

Queen's Bridge Ter- 
minus. 

Dundonald 

Derives its name 
from a large earthern 
fort; which stands be- 
side the church." — 



Comber, 
Saintfield, 



BallinahiiiolL 
Junction. 



Crossgar. 



Downpatrick. 

Hotels : Prince's Arms, 
Victoria. 

Rail terminates. 

By Car or Omnihus to 
Clough. 

Dundrum; 
Downshire Arms. 

Newcastle. 

Hotel: Annesley Arms. 



15i 



ITf 



21J 



13 



HOLYWOOD, 4^ m. 

Bangor, 12 m. 



Branch to Newtown- 
Ards, 13^ m., and 
Donaghadee, 22 m. 



4 m. Killyleaqh. S^ 
Killyleagh Castle, 
seat of Gawen R. 
Hamilton, Esq., p. 365. 



349 



Places of Interest arranged Alphabetically. 



Ardglass. 
Ballinahiiich. 
Bangor <fe Holywood. 



Castle Wellan. 
Downpatrick. 
Dundnim. 



Killyleagh, 
Moume Mountams. 
Newcastle. 



AEDGLASS, the green height, 7 m. soutli-east from Down- 
patrick, stands on a high promontory stretching out into the 
Irish Channel. It became a place of great importance soon 
after the Norman invasion, had a considerable trade, and was 
one of the three principal towns in the county, inferior 
only to Newry and Downpatrick ; but it sunk into decay. 
It is remarkable, however, for the ruins of five Anglo-Nor- 
man castles, which are an evidence of its former greatness. 

BALLINAHINCH (12l m. from Belfast ; 3 J m. from 
Junction ; by road, 9 m. from Downpatrick), a small, 
clean, and improving town, mth a good hotel. Adjoining 
the town is the fine demesne of Montalto, the seat of David 
Stewart Ker, Esq. The house contains some good pictures. 

Two miles to the south, in a pleasant, healthful situation, 
is the Spa, having springs of sulphureo-chalybeate enclosed 
in a pump-room ; and there is good accommodation for 
visitors, being in the summer a place of considerable resort. 

BANGOE AND HOLY^^OOD. 
HOLYWOOD, ^ m. from Belfast, is a pleasant bathing- 
place midway between BeKast and Bangor, much fre- 
quented by the inhabitants of BeKast, and likely, from its 
proximity to that extensive and wealthy town, to rise 
rapidly in importance as a watering-place. 

BANGOR (Royal Hotel), 12 m. from Belfast, is an 
agreeable bathing-place. 

An abbey was founded here as early as 556 by St. Comgall or Congal, a 
contemporary of St. Columbkill. The Danes are believed to have plundered 
it in 818, when it contained 3000 inmates, and murdered the abbot and 
900 monks. No remains of the building now exist, but the parish church 
occupies the site. The ruins of the ancient Bangor Castle, still in good 
preservation, overlook the quay, and close to the town is the modem Bangor 
Castle, a fine Elizabethan mansion, the seat of Robert Ward, Esq. 



350 CASTLE WELLAN. 

CASTLE WELLAN (9 m. soutli-east of Downpatrick, 4 
m. from Newcastle) is the cHef market-town of Upper 
Iveagh, and was formerly tlie seat of tlie family of Magennis. 
The property passed, in the latter part of the 1 7th century, 
into the hands of the family of Annesley. 

The park at Castle Wellan is well worthy of a visit on 
account of its natural heauty. Situated on the wooded 
side of Slieve-na-Slat, and with a picturesque lake lying in 
a hollow of the hills, it commands an extensive view of the 
whole range of the Moume Mountains. The castle is a very 
handsome structure in the baronial style of architecture, 
erected by the present earl. It contains some old family 
portraits, and commands some fine prospects, particularly 
from the top of the great round tower. Admission to the 
house only by special order. 

The handsome church at Castle Wellan, with its tall 
broach spire, was built at the sole expense of the present 
Earl shortly after he came of age, and was endowed by 
him with a salary for a minister. 

Any one who is curious about antiquities may like to know that about 
6 miles from Castle Wellan there is a very large Cromlech, on the western 
side of Crotlieve mountain, one of the Slieve Croob range. It is a large 
oblong stone, 12 feet long, more than 5 broad, and nearly 2 feet thick, sup- 
ported in a sloping position on three uprights, of which the two at the 
eastern and highest end are high enough for a tall man to stand between 
them under the altar stone ; and this is so nicely poised, that if one of the 
uprights is shaken it will rock slightly. It is not far off "the Glen road" 
to Dromara, near Boley Lough, a small pool now nearly drained- To go 
to it from Castle Wellan, the best route is by Clarkhill Wood, Slievegarren, 
and Legananny Schoolhouse, and nearly to Boley Lough ; returning by 
Benraw to Leitrim Schoolhouse and Chapel, which is very pleasingly 
situated, and thence either by the high road, or through the Park by the 
upper gate. 

About halfway between Castle Wellan and Newcastle (on the road which 
goes out between Castle Wellan Church and Woodlawn) is the small village 
of Maghera, and near it, in the churchyard of the parish, close to the 
present church, are the ruins of a very ancient church ; and at a short dis- 
tance is the stump of a round tower, being all that remains of the original 
structure which was destroyed by a storm about 150 years ago. 



DONAGHADEE. 351 

DONAGHADEE (22 m. from Belfast— Commercial 
Hotel), is about 22 miles west of Portpatrick in Scotland, 
and has now been connected with Belfast by a continuation 
of the railway from Newtown- Ards. It has for many years 
done a considerable export trade in horses. It is a most 
agreeable little town, consisting of two principal streets and 
numerous lanes ; one of the streets lies facing the sea. 
There are places of worship for different religious sects. 
On the north-east side of the town is a rath, forming a lofty 
mound, with the sides shaped round, and the top hollowed 
out from east to west by a fosse. ^' The circumference at 
the bottom of the trench is 448 feet, but much more if 
measured on the outside ; the circumference at the top is 
219 feet, and the conical height on the north 140 feet." 
The rath, now converted into a magazine, is ascended by a 
winding footpath, supposed to be coeval with the mount, 
and once there, a fine view is obtained of the Scottish 
coast, the houses on which can be clearly discerned with 
the assistance of a good glass. The quay of Donaghadee 
is made of large stones in the form of a crescent, without 
any cement, and is 128 yards in length, and about 20 or 
21 feet broad ; besides a breast- wall of the same kind of 
stones, about 6 feet broad. A little way to the south of 
the town is a fine level piece of land, where it is said a 
university formerly stood, " but it was destroyed by the 
Danes in 837." 

DOWNPATEICK (27 miles from Belfast— Denvir's 
Hotel) is the county town of Down, and said to be the 
most ancient town in Ulster. It has three principal 
streets called English, Irish, and Scotch, and contains some 
good public buildings. When De Courcy invaded Ulster, 
he found here a cathedral, attached to a house of Eegular 
Canons, Augustinians, and called the Church of the Holy 
Trinity. He removed the Augustinians, providing them 
with another convent ; and substituted a body of Benedic- 
tine monks, changing the name of the church to "St. Patrick 



352 DOWNPATRICK. 

of Down." The see is believed to have been foimded by 
St. Patrick, and lie is said to have been buried here about 
493. 

The cathedral stands on a hill, to the west of the town. 

It is not, as frequently reported, a modem structure occupying the site 
of an ancient building ; but it is itself a very ancient building, restored in 
the year 1790 from a state of dilapidation. It was built on the ruins of 
one that had been destroyed by the Danes, by Malachy O'Morgair, Bishop 
of Down, in 1140, and endowed with considerable estates. It was burnt 
in 1538 by Leonard Lord Grey ; and the temporalities of the church were 
confiscated at the dissolution of abbeys. The building continued a ruin for 
250 years, and is thus described by Harris in 1744 — 

" The roof was supported by five handsome arches, which compose a 
centre aisle of 26 feet, and two lateral aisles of 13 feet wide each ; and the 
whole structure is 100 feet long. The heads of the pillars and arches have 
been adorned with a variety of sculpture, in stone, some parts of which yet 
remain. Over the east window, which is very lofty and august, are three 
handsome niches, in which the pedestals still continue, whereon, it is sup- 
posed the statues of Saint Patrick, Saint Brigid, and Saint Columb, formerly 
stood ;" it being understood that these three persons were buried in DoAvn, 
according to an old distich in monkish Latin, 

" Three Saints do rest upon this holy hill, 
St. Patrick, Bridget, and St. Columbkill." 

In 1790, steps were taken by the Marquis of Downshire and the Dean of 
Down for the restoration of the cathedral, which was at length efiected by 
subscriptions. The ancient church was not pulled down, but the walls and 
arches then standing were preserved, and support the newer masonry and 
roof. These arches are evidently very old, and the grotesque carvings on 
some of the columns cannot belong to a later date than the 12th century. 
Much has been done during the last twenty-five years, and particularly by 
the exertion of the present Dean, to improve the interior. 

The Mount, Dun, from which the town had its name, stands on the 
north-west, about 60 feet in height, and 2100 feet in circumference, sur- 
rounded by three great ramparts. This was the citadel or fort of Keltair, 
prince of Lecale. 

About two miles north-west from Downpatrick, on a reach of the Quoile 
River, stand the remains of the Cistercian Abbey of Inch, founded in 1187 
by John de Courcy. Part of the east end of the church still remains, with 
a triplet lancet window in the east gable. 

About a mile and a-half from Down, north-east, are the 
celebrated Wells of Struell (from an Irish word for streams), 
" which, in former times, were frequented by persons from 
ill quarters, but latterly have, like other places of the same 



DUNDRUM. 353 

nature, ceased to be objects of sucli great attraction." — Dr 
Reeves. There were three or four wells, partially vaulted 
over, in which the water was raised or lowered by hidden 
sluices ; and the ruins of an old chapel, dedicated to St. 
Patrick. The wells were resorted to, at night, on the Eve 
of St. John the Baptist, for the cure of lame limbs and. 
blindness, but these nightly meetings were the occasion of 
so many scandals, that they have now been discontinued. 

DUNDRUM (DoTVTishire Arms Hotel), 8 m. from 
Downpatrick, is situated on Dundrum Bay and commands 
an extensive view of the sea in front, backed by the 
Moume Mountains in the west. The town is well built, 
and when the tide is high in the inner bay, is picturesque 
and pretty. By the energy and liberality of the late and 
present owners of the soil it has become a thriving place ; 
the old cabins have made way for substantial houses and 
shops ; there is a good and well managed Hotel, vdih. con- 
venient baths ; a handsome schoolroom, jn which divine 
service is celebrated on Sunday evenings, as the parish church 
is 2 miles off ; coastguard, and police stations. What has 
tended most to its improvement has been the quay, -svith 
commodious storehouses, begun by the late Marquis of 
Downshire, and completed by the present Marquis ; from 
which a steamer departs weekly to Whitehaven. 

Above the village, on a wooded hill, stands the old 
castle, " at the base of which hiU the sea forms a bay, 
where the tide, on going out, leaves a remarkable strand, 
called in Irish, ^ the Shore of the Champions,' for here it 
was that the youth of the ancient Ultonians used to exercise 
themselves in the race and ^vrestling." Across this strand, 
at low water, is a communication for travellers to Tyrella. 

The erection of the Castle of Diindnim is attributed to Jolm de Courcy, 
about the end of the 12th centriry. It is probable that it may have been 
Duilt by De Courcy, for the style of building resembles that of other castles 
built by him and other Norman invaders on the coast of Ireland ; and the 
fine circular Norman keep with its round-headed door and windows, and 
the remains of machicoUations on the parapet above the door, are evidences 
2 A 



354 GREY ABBEY. 

of their origin. But there is no historical authority for believing, as hai 
been stated by some, that it ever belonged to the Templars, or that that 
order had any possessions in this part of Ireland. 

Nothing authentic is known about the castle till 1515, when it was held 
by Phelim Magennis, from whom it was taken by storm, by Gerald Earl of 
Kildare, Lord-Deputy. It was taken again from a chieftain of the same name 
by Leonard Lord Grey in 1539, and seems to have been leased by the Crown 
to English officers ; but in 1558 was granted by patent from Philip and 
Mary to Gerald Fitzgerald, Earl of Kildare. About ten years after, by the 
attainder of this Earl, it again fell to the Crown, and was occupied as a 
military garrison ; but, early in the 17th century, it was again, in some un- 
known way, held by an Irish chieftain, Phelim M'Artane, who, in 1605, 
granted it, probably by a sale, to Edward Lord Cromwell. The parties, 
however, were obliged to make a formal surrender to the Crown and receive 
a re-grant ; and thus, and not by any grant consequent on the dissolution 
of the abbeys, did the Castle of Dundrum become the property of Lord 
Cromwell. His son, Viscount Lecale and Earl of Ardglass, sold it and 
other property to Sir Francis Blundell, from whom it descended to Mary, 
only child of the Hon. Martin Sandys of Ombersly, who was married in 
1786 to Arthur second Marquis of Downshire, the grandfather of the pre- 
sent possessor. 

About 2 miles north of Dundrum, on the road from Downpatrick to 
Castle Wellan, at the village of Clough, is an ancient rath or earthem 
fort, and on the top of it the remains of an old castle. Nothing is known 
of its history, and there is no feature of interest about it, except its un- 
common situation. 

From Dundrum to Newcastle is 5 miles. At about 
haK the distance, in a field to the right, off the road, is a 
large Cromlech, consisting of one heavy unhewn boulder, 
resting on three uprights. A few yards further, the road 
crosses the Ballybannon or Maghera Eiver by a level bridge 
of many arches, commonly called the Sliddery-ford Bridge. 
Before it was built, 22 years ago, the river was crossed by 
foot-passengers on stepping-stones, and by horses by a ford 
over loose, round, and smooth pebbles, thence called the 
^lidclery (Anglice Slippery) Ford, 

GE-EY ABBEY, 1\ miles from Newtown-Ards by car, 
is one of the most interesting relics in the County Down. 
Africa, the daughter of Godred, King of Man, and wife of 
Sir John de Courcy, founded it in 1193, under the title of 
the Abbey of St Mary, De jugo Dei, It was a cell, oi 



KILLYLEAGH 255 

offset of Holm Cultram in Cumberland. In the rebellion 
of 1641 the original abbey was destroyed by the O'Neills, 
but was afterwards re-edified by the Montgomeries. The 
ruins, which are clothed with ivy, have a pleasant though 
mournful aspect. They are very extensive, and thanks to the 
proprietor, Hugh Montgomery, Esq., are kept in proper re^ 
pair. The abbey is not far from the margin of Strangford 
Lough, a large circumscribed arm of the sea, 16 miles 
in length, by 4 to 5 in width. The islands are very 
numerous, and by some said to number 365 — rather an 
apocryphal number. Kelp was at one time furnished in 
large quantities by the islands and shores of Strangford 
Lough. Eather more than fifty years ago, it was computed 
that one proprietor would realise from this source alone a 
profit of .£1000 annually. 

KILLYLEAGH, 25 m. from Belfast, is a small toT\Ti 
and seaport, prettily situated on the western shore of Strang- 
ford Lough. The chief feature of interest is the Castle, 
part of which is of great antiquity. It was held by the 
CNeills, and was forfeited in the rebellion of Shane O'NeilL 

Towards the end of Queen Elizabeth's reign, James Hamilton, a Scotsman, 
received from James I. a grant of a large portion of the forfeited estates, 
including Killyleagh, and was created Viscount Claneboy in 1622, and 
his son. Earl of Clanbrassil in 1675. The castle, when taken by the Repub- 
lican army in 1649, was partly demolished ; but was repaired after the Res- 
toration by Henry the second Earl. On his death, the property near 
Killyleagh passed to the representatives of Archibald Hamilton, second son 
of the Vicar of Dunlop in Ayrshire, and from them the Castle of Killyleagh 
has descended lineally to its present possessor, Gawen R. Hamilton, Esq. 

The Castle was, however, completely rebuilt in 1850, 
with the exception of the two round towers, by this 
gentleman's father, Archibald Kowan Hamilton. The 
Church occupies a fine site, and was rebuilt in 1812 by 
James Baron Dufferin and Claneboy, who was likewise a 
descendant of Archibald Hamilton, and had property in the 
place. 



356 NEWCASTLE. 



NEWCASTLE 



Hotel : The Annesley Arms. 
Mail car to Castle Wellan and to Kilkeel, dally. 

Is situated, 5 m. from Dundrum and 13 m. from Down- 
patrick, on tlie sonth-western curve of the great or outer 
Bay of Dundrum, under the north-eastern declivities of 
Slieve Donard. It was ancieutly called Ballagh-heg, the 
Little or Short Pass, in reference probably to the glen 
by which access was gained to the other side of the moun- 
tains into Mourne and towards Annalong. It .had its pre- 
sent name from a castle, which would not be new if now 
standing, but of which not a vestige remains. It was 
taken down in 1835, and the Baths, which are much 
resorted to, were erected on the site where it stood. 

The village, however, was till lately scarcely known, 
and consisted almost entirely of a few fishermen's cottages ; 
and the slopes at the base of the mountains that overhang 
it were covered with a deep natural clothing of heather 
and furze, which it was not easy to penetrate. In 1821, 
the late Earl Annesley chose under the brow of Thomas 
]\Iountain a site for a residence, where he began to build 
Donard Lodge, enclosed a demesne with a wall, and 
commenced the extensive plantations which form so great 
an ornament to the place. Newcastle now rose into notice, 
and has gradually increased in size and importance, being 
recognised for the beauty of its scenery and the attractions 
of its neighbourhood as a delightful place for an occasional 
sojourn. As it is two miles from the parish church of 
Kilcoo (at Bryansford), Lord Annesley, in 1833, erected 
above " the Eock " a commodious church, which was 
endowed by the present Earl on his coming of age. 

Entering from the direction of Dundrum, the road 
crosses the Shimna Eiver, by the Castle Bridge ; and the 
Hotel and Baths are on the left hand. Between this 
building and " the Eock," and in front of the terraces 
and other houses facing the sea, is the Promenade, with 



NEWCASTLE. 357 

its gravel walks, grass-plots, and rustic seats ; having the 
expanse of the sea to the eastward, the woods of ToUymore 
to the west, and on the southwest and close above the 
village, the various eminences which culminate in Slieve 
Donard, the highest mountain in Ulster. On the Eock, 
where Felix Magennis once intended to build a castle, 
stands the Church, with its tower and spire of granite, 
forming a pleasing object in the view : and beyond it, 
about as far as from it to the Baths, and nearly at the 
extreme curve of the bay, is a commodious harbour with 
a double pier, erected with the aid of a small grant from 
Parliament. 

The nearest object of attraction is the demesne of 
Donard Lodge, which, by the kindness of the Countess 
Annesley, is open every week-day. 

The walks are laid out with great taste ; flowering shruhs, rhododettdron, 
arbutus, and fuschia, grow luxuriantly, and blend pleasingly with firs, 
larches, and other trees. The principal feature, however, is the Glen River 
and its waterfalls. It rises in the deep glen between Slieve Donard and 
Slieve Commedagh, and rushes down the lowest part of its course in a 
succession of cataracts. None of these are very high, nor is the river wide ; 
but the effect is always striking after heavy rains. One of these falls Cat a 
spot call the " Hermit's Glen," from a small cell artificially made under a 
huge rock) does not leap over a precipice, but slides as it were down a 
steep sloping rock, and is broken into two streams, which unite at the base. 
As this rock stands obliquely to the course of the stream, the waterfall is 
presented in profile to one standing or sitting at a point of view below it. 

Near this fall, is the Dining House, commanding an admirable view, 
and whence, if the day be clear, may be seen the Tower of Down Cathedral 
the monument to the Marquis of Londonderry, and Lough Strangford. 

A little above this is another fall, and higher up a 
bridge, from which two or three paths diverge ; one, straight 
onward, leads to the Ivy Eock, formerly called Craig-na-gor 
or the Goat's Kock, commanding a particularly fine view. 
Another path to the left, steep and rugged, keeps near 
the bank of the river to the Ice-house (no longer used as 
such), where the path terminates. 

Another mountain stream, called Amy's Eiver, comes 
down through the demesne of Donard Lodge, and is crossed 



358 BRYANSFORD AND TOLLYMORE. 

by a bridge just outside the gate. It rises in the glen 
above tne granite quarries, and falls into the sea just 
below the new Spa Well. 

Next to Donard Lodge demesne, a chief object of attrac- 
tion to visitors will be the summit of Donard Mountain, 
the highest peak in the province of Ulster, and one from 
which a most extensive view may be obtained in clear 
weather. As the summit, however, is more easily reached 
from Newcastle than from any other place, we will first 
visit Bryansford, ToUymore Park, and Castle Wellan, p. 
350, and take the mountain excursions afterwards. 

Bryansford [Hotel: The Eoden ArmsJ which takes 
its name probably from Bryan Magennis, is a very pretty 
village two miles and a half from Newcastle^ and five miles 
from Dundrum, and thirteen miles from Downpatrick. 

At the end of the village is the entrance to 

Tollymore Park, the seat of the Earl of Eoden, 
under a fine pointed arch, from which the view of the 
wooded mountain side and the heights of Slieve Donard 
in the background is most impressive, and, once seen, will 
hardly be forgotten. The park is open under the following 
regulations : — Persons on foot, on Tuesdays and Fridays ; 
other days, by ticket only. Carriages admitted by ticket 
from the Agent, and also from the proprietors of the 
Annesley Arms, Newcastle, and Eoden Arms, Bryansford. 

The woods extend above two miles along the valley 
through which flows the Shimna Eiver, and rise to a con- 
siderable height on the hills within the wall. The park 
contains nearly 2000 statute acres, and in it will be found 
a variety of mountain and forest scenery. 

As we enter the park, on the lawn to the left is an 
obelisk erected to the memory of the Hon. Bligh Jocelyn, 
E.N., a brother of the present Earl. The House is not 
remarkable, but contains some good portraits, armour, etc 
It is not shown to strangers. 



SLIEVE DONARD. 359 

The whole course of tlie river, with, walks on either side, 
commands views of great beauty ; and among the woods 
are some fme oaks, and some remarkable trees of the silver 
fir, one of which is justly entitled "the Lord of the 
Forest." On the south bank of the river is the Dining 
House, in a pleasant and quiet open space ; and a little 
higher up, where the stream is spanned by a light suspension 
bridge, is a cave called the Hermitage. A circular stone 
tablet, at the back of the Hermitage, has an inscription in 
Greek : " Clanbrassil, to his very dear friend Monthermer. 
Anno 1770." The tablet was placed by James Hamilton, 
second and last Earl of Clanbrassil, to his friend Marquis 
of Monthermer, who died in 1770. The estates of Lord 
Clanbrassil, at his death in 1798, devolved on his only 
sister, wife of the first Lord Eoden, and grandmother of 
the present Earl. 

From the Dining House, down the river to the Saw 
Mill, the path abounds in points of picturesque beauty ; 
and there are many walks to be taken and enjoyed in 
Tollymore Park, which the visitor will find out for him- 
self, and likely lose himself in so doing. 

Slieve Donard. 

Eeturning to Newcastle, we may now make the ascent 
of Slieve Donard, and other mountain excursions. Slieve 
Donard may be ascended by three or four different routes. 
We shall take the most usual, which though in some places 
steep is on the whole the shortest. It is not a very difficult 
feat ; any able-bodied man can accomplish it in an hour and 
tliree-quarters ; and any lady, if a good walker, in half-an- 
hour more. The descent can be made in something more 
than an hour, the distance being about three miles and a 
half. 

We enter the gate of Donard Lodge, and turning short 
to the left, follow a steep path through the plantations, with 
" Amy's River " on our left ; cross two of the drives at 



360 SLIEVE DONARD. 

riglit angles, and follow a path tkrougli the thicket, and 
across an open space of heather and sedge grass, to the upper 
wall, just under the debris of the granite quarries. We 
must scramble over the stones, and keeping as near as may 
be to the side of the stream, creep leisurely up the glen for 
about two-thirds of its length above the quarries, and then 
strike off to the right, and ascend a steep brow or hrae. At 
the top of this we are on a kind of table-land, with Thomas 
Mountain nearly behind us on the right, and the Cone of 
Slieve Donard a little to the left, but nearly facing us. We 
must go obliquely across this space — cautiously, because the 
ground is sometimes soft and boggy — till we come to the 
foot of the Cone, on its north-eastern side. This is the 
best course, because the eastern side of the summit is 
very rough, with broken masses of granite ; while this 
northern or north-eastern face, opposite Thomas Mountain 
and Newcastle, is easier of ascent, and though steep 
enough has many traces of paths. We must avoid going 
much to the west, for on that side are the steep and 
dangerous precipices of the Eagle Crag. We shall now soon 
reach the smaller and lower Cairn of Stones. This is the 
only one which can be seen from any part of Newcastle, or 
from which the village can be seen. Behind this the ground 
still rises with a gentle slope for about 100 yards to the 
topmost summit, on which is the larger Cairn, visible from 
ToUymore Park, the Bryansford road, the sands, and 
generally round the neighbourhood. We are now on the 
highest point in Ulster. The Ordnance Survey maps make 
it 2796 feet above the level of the sea ; but some observa- 
tions made in the summer of 1865 state it at 2820 feet. 
It is unnecessary to say that the view is very extensive, 
extending as it does in clear weather even to the coast of 
Scotland and the mountains of Cumberland to the east, and 
those of Dublin and Wicklow, south-west. Near the summit, 
only a few yards from the Great Cairn, is a well or spring 
of water, cold and clear, coming up apparently through the 
fissurcB of the stones. 



SLIEVE DONARD. 361 

The moimtain was of old called Slieve Slanga, from a iero called Slainge, 
who is recorded in the annals of the " Four Masters," compiled from bardic 
sources, to have died anno mundi 2533, and to have been " interred in the 
Cairn of Sliabh Slanga." He was son of Partholan, King of Ireland, and 
brother of Rudraighe, who was drowned in the bay. The present name, 
however, is derived from St. Donard (written in Irish Dom-hangh-ard, but 
shortened and softened in pronunciation), a person of great reputation in 
his day, and whose memory is still held in veneration. He was bom to- 
wards the close of the 5th century. His father was king of Ulster ; and his 
mother, Derinilla, had the honour to be the mother of four or five saints of 
Ireland besides. He 'became a disciple of St. Patrick, and founded the 
church of Maghera, in the plain below the mountain, and was bishop of it. 
He also built a chapel on the top of Slieve Donard, where he is said to have 
spent much of his life as a hermit, and which continued to be frequented 
by a great concourse of people, for pilgrimages and penances, on the 25th 
of July, the patron-day of the saint. Part of this building was standing 120 
years ago, as appears by Harris' description of it.* The remains of walls 
now visible are not ruins of this chapel, but of a hut used by the Royal 
Engineers when engaged on the Ordnance Sui'vey. 

In descending the mountain, after getting to the foot of 
the Cone, we may take a different route, striking off a little 
to the left, across the easy slope of heather. Here, there 
are two ways of descent ; the first, and nearest to the Eagle's 
Rock, will take us down a wide hollow to the glen of the 
White River, about half-way between its head and the Ice- 
house, where we can cross the stream, and keep it on 
our right. The other is steeper ; we cross the heather in 
the direction of Thomas, till we strike upon a small stream, 
and keep close to it for a short distance. Presently the 
water descends through a steep narrow chasm in a very 
dark rock, in three or four long leaps. This is called the 
Black Stairs. We must keep the left side of the stream, 
and avoiding the precipices, we can climb down among 
some large rocks towards the left, and then down a very 
steep bank to the foot of the Black Stairs. The stream is 
insignificant, except after heavy rains. We shall now easily 
reach the Ice-house, and cross the river, and enter the 
plantations of Donard Lodge. This descent is one of the 
best bits of scrambling in the glen, and wiU be found 

* Reeves' Dixmsan Antiqv/Uies. 



362 MOCTKNE MOUNTAINS. 

amusing enougli by those whom it will suit. There is no 
actual danger, but people that have not good heads may 
just as well not try it. 

Another route for the ascent may be mentioned, chiefly 
on account of places of interest on it, namely by 

The Ballagh, and the Bloody Bridge Eiver. It 
is rather longer, and part of it is along the road, but is 
as pleasant as any other, on a fine day and with plenty of 
time. We take the Kilkeel road, past the harbour and 
the Widow's Eow — built by subscription for the widows of 
several fishermen who were lost in the bay by a sudden 
storm in the autumn of 1843. About this place the shore, 
which has a level sandy beach, rises almost perpendicularly 
to the height of more than 100 feet. 

Near Patrick's stream, on the left, are two remarkable 
fissures in the cliffs. The first, called Maggie's Leap, is a 
wide perpendicular chasm open to the tide below ; and it 
has its name from a tradition that a woman, pursued by 
ruffians, baffled her pursuers by leaping this terrible gap. 
The farther one is Armar's Hole, named from one James 
Armar, murdered here by his son about the year 1701. 

At two miles from Newcastle is the Bloody Bridge. 
It is a picturesque object, although not now used for 
traffic, and derives its name from the massacre of a number 
of Protestants in 1641 by Sir Conn Magenis. He had them 
in charge to convey them to Downpatrick, but saved him- 
self the trouble, by beheading them on the bridge and 
leaving their bodies there unburied. 

Before we go up the glen we will visit the Ballagh 
Churchy which stands on the left of the high road, just 
above the deep cutting. Of this building, one of the most 
ancient in Ulster, only a single arch is standing with a 
small fragment of wall. It becomes more and more dilapi- 
dated every year, and probably before long will fall alto- 
gether. 

We may now ascend the Glen, which abounds in good 



MOURNE MOUNTArNS. 363 

subjects for the sketcher. On reaching the ridge at iti* 
head, a walk of three-quarters of an hour will bring iis to 
the top of Slieve Donard. This, the south side of the Cone, 
though very steep is easily climbed, being grassy and dry. 
We shall find a good deal of the hare's-foot or club moss, 
Lycopodium clavatum; and near the summit occasional 
specimens of the Least Willow, Balix lierhacea. 

If not disposed to go to the top, it is easy to skirt roimd 
to the head of the Newcastle River Glen, and descend by 
it to the plantations of Donard Lodge. 

Several pleasant excursions may be made among the 
Mourne Mountains to Cove Lough, Blue Lough, Bingin, the 
Broken Mountain, Lough Shannagh, Glen of Kilkeel River, 
and other places marked on the accompanying chart of the 
district^ but which we have not space to detail here. 

In reference to the Cove Lough excursion there is a remarkable de- 
scription by Harris, which has been copied into several topographical books 
without the copyists knowing whether it was true or not, but which we 
can now verify and correct. He says: "A deep and narrow vale divides 
Slieve Donard from Slieve Snavan, or the Creeping Mountain, so called be- 
cause it must be climbed in a creeping posture ; and through this vale winds 
a pretty serpentine stream, which discharges itself into the sea to the east- 
ward of the mountains." The vale in question is evidently that through 
which the Annalong river flows to the sea at Annalong Port, " Ath-na-long, 
the Ford of the Ship," S.E. There is no mountain now knoTVTi as Slieve 
Snavan, but Harris' further description enabled us, some years ago, to 
Identify it with the *' Cove Mountain." *' It stands to the south-icest of this 
stream, and presents to the view a huge rock, resembling at a distance an 
old fortification, very high and detached, as it were, from the eastern side 
of the mountain. After rain a stream rushes from the west side of the 
rock, which, shooting from the top, falls in a large cascade ; to the east of 
which is a vast natural cave, affording an entrance as wide as the cave itself.'* 
On the detached rock above-mentioned is the evident mark of a torrent after 
rain, down a deep fissure ; and the only cave hereabouts is on the " Cove 
Mountain," whence it has its name. " To the left of this," that is, S.S.W., 
"you climb up to the top of the rock, and arrive at one of the most beauti- 
ful, magnificent, and romantic spots that can weU be conceived. The rock 
is only the advanced part of a large shelf which projects at about half the 
height of the mountain with a sweep, and leaves the space of about two 
acres at the top. Round the N.W., the W., and the S. of this area, the 
mountain rises to a great height, and stands like a vast wall. The area is 
almost roundi and slopes gently from all sides towar(ifl the middle where 



364 NEWTOWN-ARBS. 

Is formed a beaiitifttl circiilar lake as clear as crystal," This is the " Cove 
Lough," a small mountain tarn, and the description is accurate. From 
hence the excursion may be extended to the Blue Lough and Bingin. 

NEWTOWN-AEDS, 12j m. from Belfast. There are 
numerous places of great interest in the County Down, to 
visit which it would be well to make Belfast the head- 
quarters, as they do not occur in any of our detailed routes. 
Amongst these is Newtown- Ards, twelve and a half miles 
from Belfast, agreeably situated at the northern point of 
Lough Strangford, which is navigable to the town, and at 
low water affords a fine level strand for many miles. It 
is a very ancient town, and was erected into a borough 
town in the reign of James L, and incorporated under the 
name of a provost, twelve burgesses, and commonalty. The 
Society of Friends were among the early benefactors of the 
town, having established a linen factory nearly a century 
ago, and an extensive manufacture of embroidered muslin 
is carried on for the Glasgow merchants. In 1214 a 
Dominican friary was established, and in it were held 
chapters of the order in 1298 and 1312. At the Dis- 
solution it was granted to James Viscount Clandeboy at 
the annual nominal rent of 13s. 4d. " By assignment," it 
afterwards became the property of Montgomery, Viscount 
Ards. The town and neighbouring country are now the 
property of the Marquis of Londonderry, to whom the town 
is much indebted for its present improved appearance. 
The ruins of the church, founded by the first of the Mont- 
gomeries, a descendant of him who caused the acci- 
dental death of Henry II. of France at a tournament, is 
an attractive ruin. The interior is at present used as a 
•ourt-house. The town is neat, thriving, and thrifty, the 
itreets are regular and well built, and the country around 
in a good state of cultivation. 



365 

BELFAST TO THE GIANT'S CAUSEWAY. 

(By Nortliem Counties Railway to Coleraine, thence by coach ; or by tb< 

same rail to Portnish, thence by car.] 

Places of interest on the road described below. 



Antrim. i Coleraine. 

BaUymena. ! Dunluce Castle. 



Bushmills. 
Carrickfergus 
Castlerock. 
Cave Hm. 



Giant's Causeway. 
Greencastle. 
Lough Neagh. 
Portrush. 



Portstewart. 
Randalstown. 
Shane's Castle. 
Templepatrick. 
White Abbey. 
White Rocks. 



In drawing up a detailed excursion to tlie Giant's Cause- 
way, and back to Belfast, we liave for several reasons 
found it advisable to conduct the tourist there by tlie 
nearest route, leaving it to his own choice whether to 
return by the coast or hurry back the same way. 
The full excursion may be accomplished in two days 
by sleeping at Portrush or the Causeway, and taking 
a car next morning to Ballycastle, where a public car 
may be had to Lame, p. 393, in time to meet the 
train to Belfast. It will conduct the traveller over 
143 miles of scenery, the most interesting to the 
geologist in all Ireland. Should only one day be at 
the disposal of the tourist, he may procure a return 
ticket to Portrush, where a van for the Causeway 
meets the train, and returns in time for the evening 
train to Belfast. The tourist may also visit Dunluce 
Castle and the Giant's Causeway, by taking the rail 
direct to Portrush, and thence by car. 

The principal objects at the different places will be 
found under the distinct headings. 

Leaving the busy town of BeKast behind us, we soon 
find ourselves in the midst of the cultured meadows of 
the county of Antrim. The way, whether by rail or road, 
is, for a space of nearly seven miles, by the side of Belfast 
Lough, sometimes called the Bay of Carrickfergus, a fine 
sheet of water about twelve miles long and five broad, 
measuring from Groomsport in Down to Whitehead on the 
Antrim side. The breadth gradually diminishes from tha 



366 BELFAST TO THE GTAJST S CAUSEWAY. 

entrance to the emboucliure of the river Lagan. The chief 
recommendation of the bay is its clearness of rocks. There 
are scarcely any rocks in this bay, except one reef on the 
north side (which is covered at high water), called by the 
Irish the Briggs, i.e., the tombs ; bnt by the Scotch the 
Clachan, from its resemblance to a village when uncovered 
at low water. There is a shoal a little south-west of Car- 
rickfergus, over which lie three fathoms of water at ebb 
tide. " The Speedwell," a Scotch ship, in King William's 
reign, was the only ship ever known to suffer on it. 

Cave Hill, attaining an elevation of 1140 feet, is dis- 
tinctly seen after leaving BeKast (see page 338). 

Greencastle has the ruins of the ancient castle of the 
Burghs, Earls of Ulster and Lords of Connaught. This was 
considered to be an imporant stronghold by the English 
settlers, for we find that in the reign of Henry IV. the 
constable of the castle had a salary of .£20 per annum. 
"In 1495, it was thought to be a place of so much im- 
portance to the Crown, that no person but of English hirth 
wae declared capable of being constable of it. It was a 
garrison in the rebellion of 1641, and helped to restrain 
the Irish in these then uncultivated parts." A little further 
on is the site of the first cotton factory in Ulster, the 
village of Whitehouse. The trade is still briskly carried 
on. 

White Abbey has three claims on our notice, on account 
of its monastic ruins, its flax mill, and the decayed fort 
overlooking the shore. An ancient city, it is believed, 
covered the plain and adjacent hill. The flax mill is in 
active operation, and gives employment to a great number 
of hands. The castle was formerly called Cloughnaharty, 
but was afterwards termed Lugg's Castle. 

Caerickfergus (Victoria Hotel). The principal objecta 
of interest are the castle and the church. ^^ Near Carrick- 
fergus, close to the brink of the ocean, stands a large 
old castle, which is still kept fortified, and is garrisoned 
by two companies of soldiers. The situation is ver}' 



CARRICKFEBQUS. 367 

picturesque, and tlie view over tlie coast to the town of 
Bangor, the Belfast Lough, and the dreary waste of waters 
beyond, is most beautiful in weather permitting its enjoy- 
ment. The walls of the castle are clothed with ivy, and 
washed by the white foam of the waves as they break at its 
feet. At this castle William III. landed before he fought 
the battle of the Boyne. Here the French endeavoured 
to land to lend assistance to the Irish rebels when it was 
too late." Sir John de Courcy, Earl of Ulster, is believed 
to have founded the castle in the latter part of the twelfth 
century. It is built upon a rock close upon the sea-shore, 
and commands in a most effectual manner the lough or 
bay of Belfast. To the land side the rock slopes consi- 
derably, but even at ordinary tides the building is three 
parts surrounded by water. The passage which defends 
the entrance was formerly divided by a drawbridge, de- 
fended by a barbican. At the west side of the castle is a 
dam originally intended to supply the ditch with water. 
Another defensive contrivance is above the gate, in the 
shape of a " machicolation or aperture for letting fall stones, 
melted lead, or the like, on the assailants." Inside of the 
gate is a strong portcullis and another aperture like that 
outside. A new guardroom and barrack were added in 
1802. A draw-well upwards of thirty feet deep formerly 
supplied the garrison with water, but it is now choked 
up with rubbish. Visitors are freely admitted on appli- 
cation.* 

The general appearance of the castle is that of the early 

* The following description of the castle occurs in a survey by Clarksoa 
in 1567 : — " The building of the said castle on the south part' is three 
towers, viz., the gate-house tower in the middle thereof, which is the entry 
at a drawbridge over a dry moat, and in said tower is a prison and porter- 
lodge, and over the same a fair lodging, called the constable's lodging ; and 
in the courtain between the gate-house and west tower in the comer, being 
of divers squares, called Cradyfergus, is a fair and comely building, a 
chapel, and divers houses of office on the ground, and above the great 
chamber and the lord's lodging, all which is now in great decaie as well as 
the couverture, being lead, also, in timber and glass, and without help and 
reparation it will soon come to utter ruin " 



568 BELFAST TO THE GIANT's CAUSEWAY. 

Saxon structures in Ireland, built entirely for strength, 
without the remotest attempt at ornament, yet possessing 
an amount of beauty such as few structures can boast 
Only on one or two places have ornaments been bestowed, 
and not with a very lavish hand. The church of Carrick- 
fergus contains some interesting monuments to the 
Chichester family. One erected in 1625 has kneeling 
figures of Sir Arthur, the founder of the family, and his 
lady. Between them lies the figure of their infant son, 
and below is the effigy of Sir John Chichester. Heraldic 
emblems decorate the tomb. Near an old barrack at the 
entrance to the town, in the ground below low-water mark, 
a quantity of peat was found, containing embedded in it 
portions of trees and a quantity of hazel nuts. The wood 
was petrified, and consisted chiefly of willow and alder. 
The kernels of the nuts are also petrified. Plaster of Paris, 
i.e., gypsum, is found in various places along the shore. 
ThQ town contains a population of nearly 4000. Not far 
from Carrickfergus was the abbey of Woodburn, founded 
in 1242 by the family of Bisset. In 1542 the last abbot, 
Gilbreath M^Cowragh, resigned and retired to Island 
Magee. The ruins have entirely disappeared. 

At the junction, we suddenly turn to the left, and leave 
Lough Neagh behind us, passing Ballynure station and 
the village of Templepatrick. In this village was situated 
an hospital of " Knights of St. John of Jerusalem," the 
property belonging to which was bestowed upon Sir Arthur 
Chichester by James I. Castle Upton, the fine seat of 
Viscount Templemore, is in the neighbourhood. Its his- 
tory is very curious. An English officer named Sir Hum- 
phrey Norton became possessed of the religious house, and 
erected a castle, which was styled indiscriminately Temple- 
patrick Castle and Castle Norton. Norton's daughter, 
tiowever, married a sergeant of dragoons named O'Linn, 
trhich so exasperated the knight, that he disposed of his 
property to another officer named Henry Upton, and fled 
the country, Dunadry is celebrated on account of an 



ANTRIM. 369 

engagement between tlie Englisli and Scots forces in 1648, 
which resulted in the death of the English commander, 
Owen 0' Connelly. The ruins of Muckamore Abbey and 
the village of the same name are passed before arriving at 

ANTEIM, 

[Massareene Arms Hotel ; 22 m. from Belfast] 

a small town on the Six-Mile Water, njear Lough Neagh, 
with about 2200 inhabitants. It consists of two principal 
streets, and contains one or two manufactories for linen 
and soft goods. In the vicinity is a very perfect round 
tower, standing ninety-three feet high, and measuring at 
the base nearly fifty-three feet in circumference. It is, like 
all other round towers, composed of rough stone. Above 
the doorway there may be traced the design of a cross 
within a circle, but it is not in good repair. Considerable 
damage was done to the tower in 1822 by lightning. 
Near the town is Antrim Castle, an old embattled 
building with towers and turrets, the seat of Viscount 
Massareene. The present peer is descended from Sir 
William Skefl&ngton, appointed an Irish commissioner by 
Henry YIII. in 1529, through his mother who married 
the late Yiscount^Ferrard. From Antrim it would be 
well to walk through the extensive and beautiful demesne 
of Antrim Castle and visit 

LOUGH NEAGH, 

the largest lake not only in Ireland but in the United 
Kingdom, and only exceeded in size by a few in Europe. 
It is twenty miles long by fifteen in breadth, and by the 
Ordnance Survey is computed to contain an area of 98,255 
statute acres, and to be forty-eight feet above the sea at 
low tides. It is a curious fact, that the greatest depth of 
the lake is given at forty-five feet, so that any part of 
the bottom will be at least three feet above the level of 

2 R 



370 BELFAST TO THE GIANT*S CAUSEWAY. 

the sea. A canal connects it with Belfast, NewTy, and 
Lough Erne, and there is sufficient depth of water for the 
navigation of wherries from shore to shore. The origin of 
the name is involved in obscurity. Lough Neagh, at one 
time written Lough N^Eachach, is said to have derived 
its name from an ancient prince of Ulster, Eachach 
(shortened to Eagh), who was drowned by a sudden 
overflow of the Eiver Bann, or some other extraordinary 
cause, whereby the whole adjoining country was laid 
underwater about a.d. 100. — Reeves (273, 341, 376). 

Extravagant tales have been told about the petrifying 
properties of the water, but these properties are believed 
to be confined to the Crumlin water, a small stream which 
runs into the lake near the the village of that name. 
There is no difficulty in believing Barton, who in 1757 
said that " a petrifaction was found one mile from the 
mouth of the Crumlin river ; it was 700 lbs. weight ; it 
was entirely stone without any wood within it. When the 
water was low, it appeared like the stump of an old tree." * 
Unfortunately even naturalists will not content themselves 
sometimes with honest facts, but be led away by what is 
novel and strange. Thus Boetius asserts that a gentleman 
had, a little before the rebellion in 1541, " cut down for 
building, a large holly tree, but being diverted from his 
purpose, his timber lay on the ground in the place where 
it was felled, upon the banks of the lough, all the miser- 
able time of the war, till at last, the kingdom being settled , 
the gentleman went to look for his timber, and found the 
holly petrified^ Specimens of this fossil wood are fre- 
quently to be met with among the peasantry. They are 
very beautiful, being real petrifactions, and not merely in- 
crustations. They take a good polish, and look quite as 
well as many of the best specimens from Antigua. In this 
lake is found the pollan {Coregonus pollan), a bright silvery 
fish, which in the season is as common as herring in the 

* Lectures on Natural Philosophy, by Richard Barton, B.D., 1757. 



LOUGH NEAGH. 371 

cottages of the poor. The tradition of the formation of 
the lake is similar to that which accounts for the presence 
of the lough at Cork. It has even been asserted that the 
inundation occurred in " the reign of Lugaid Rldabderg, 
who mounted the throne of Ireland a.d. 65." Caxton 
writes, " There is a lake in Ulster and moche fvsshe therein, 
whiche is xxx. myles in lengthe and xv. in brede. The 
Riuer Ban runneth out of the Lake into the north ocean, 
and men say that this Lake began in this manner : there 
were men in this contre that were of evyle lyringe — and 
there was a wele in ye lande in grete reuerence of olde 
tyme and always couered, and yf it were left uncouered, ye 
wele wolde rise and drowne all the lande, and so id hoped 
yd a woman wente to ye wele for to fetche water, and 
hyed her fasd to her childe yd wepd in ye cradele, and left 
ye wele uncouered — then ye wele sprynged so fastly yd 
drowned ye woman and her childe, and made all ye contre 
a lake and fysshe ponde. For to prove this, it is a grete 
argument that when the weder is clear fysshers of yd water 
see in ye grounde under ye water round towers, and hyghe 
shapen steeples and churches of yd land." * 

" On Loch Neagh's banks as the fisherman strays. 
When the clear soft eve's declining, 
He sees the round towers of other days 
In the wave beneath him shining. 

** Thus shall memory often, in dreams sublime, 
Catch a glimpse of the days that are over ; 
Thus sighing, look through the waves of time 
For the long faded gloiies they cover." — Moore, 

Shane's Castle, the seat of the representative of a long 
and noble line of heroes, is on the margin of the lake. 
The building was almost modem in 1816, when it was 
accidentally reduced to a state of ruin by fire. The walls, 
with their towers and turrets, still exist. The O'NeiUs 
were long famous in Ulster. 

* Caxton's History of England, Wales, Scotland, and Ireland. 149^ 



372 BELFAST TO THE GIANt's CAUSEWAY. 

"When her kings, with standard of green unfurl'd, 
Led the Ked-Branch knights to danger ; — 
Ere the emerald gem of the western world 
Was set in the crown of a stranger." — Moore. 

The origin of tlie title Eed-Brancli is variously given, as 
well as tlie Eed-Hand, in the arms of Ulster. What seems 
to be the parent legend is, that at some very remote period, 
a party from some unknown land sailed to Ireland for the 
purpose of conquering it. Nearing the Ulster coast, it was 
agreed that whoever should touch the land first should be 
lord of it. One daring chief, seeing a probability of his 
losing the prize, deliberately cut off his left hand, and 
threw it on shore before the other boats' crews could land, 
and thus having first touched the soil, he claimed it, and 
from him sprung the O'Neills, the royal race of Ulster. 

E-am's Island, off the eastern shore, contains an area of 
about six acres. It is a spot of great beauty, being delight- 
fully wooded, and decorated with the shattered remains of 
a round tower and a pleasant cottage, ornamented with a 
variety of shrubs and flowering plants. There are only 
two other islands on the lake. Lough Neagh is too large, 
and too destitute of mountain sentinels, to look well from 
all parts. The north-western portion of it, however, espe- 
cially Antrim Bay, is truly beautiful, the country in that 
direction being well wooded. Chalcedony, opal, and corne- 
lian, are frequently found on the shores of the lake. 

Leaving Lough Neagh and Antrim, we continue our rail- 
way ride to Ballymena. Not long after quitting Antrim, 
the deer-park of Shane's Castle is passed. A stone which 
once marked the place of sepulture of the O'Neills is seen 
in an out-of-the-way corner, bearing the following inscrip- 
tion, forcibly reminding us of some of the multinomial 
titles of the Highlanders of Scotland. " This vault was 
erected in the year 1660 by Shean MacPhelim MacBryan 
MacShean O'Neill, Esq., as a burying-place for himself and 
the family of Clandeboy." To view Shane's Castle and 
demesne it would be well if the traveller would proceed to 



BALLTMENA. 373 

Randalstown, by brancli line, four miles from Antrim. 
It is a town of some antiquity, and was the headquarters 
of the forces in 1688, which were dispatched to London- 
derry. There are one or two linen manufactories here. 
From Antrim to Ballymena the country is by no means 
attractive, but the distance is not great, and we soon reach 

BALLYD^CENA. 

Hotels — Greer's and Tellot's. 

This is a town with upwards of 6000 inhabitants, and 
one of the most extensive linen and flax markets in Ire- 
land. In the vicinity is a rath about fifty feet high, well 
planted, and known as Ballykeel Moat. In connection 
with it is a partial amphitheatre, which may lead to the 
belief that it is of Druidical origin. About two miles 
from Ballymena, on the western side, on a rising ground 
opposite Galgorm Castle, the seat of John Young, Esq., is 
the neat little village of Gracehill, a Moravian settlement 
founded in 1765. The village contains about 400 in- 
habitants. Six miles east of Ballymena is Slemish, a 
mountain which rears its summit on our right to a height 
of 1 390 feet. In that direction there is a Druidical altar, a 
little to the left of the public road. The inclined stone is 
about ten feet by eight. Yery little of interest occurs 
now before arriving at Ballymoney — {Hotel: Reid's) — a 
place with a population of about 2600, and near which is 
Leslie Hill, the pleasant domain of James Leslie, Esq. 



374 



COLERAINE 

Hotels.— Cflotli-'Worker 8* Arms— Corporation Arms. Cars to Kilrea, 
Buslimills, Port-Ballintrae, and Garvagh. 

a plain-looking town, with about 6000 inhabitants, finely 
situated on the noble river Bann, about four and a half 
miles from the ocean. It is an ancient place,* and as early 
as 540, St. Carbreus, a disciple of St. Finian of Clonard, 
was the first bishop of Coleraine. Many old houses, built 
evidently in the seventeenth century, were in existence 
fifty years ago. It has long been noted for the excellence 
and fineness of its linens, called " Coleraines^^ and for its 
salmon fisheries on the Bann. There are places of worship 
for various religious bodies, including Episcopalians, Pres- 
byterians, Roman Catholics, and Methodists ; and the town, 
which is likely to rise in importance, returns one member 
to Parliament. 

Downhill House, lately the magnificent seat of Sir 
Harvey Bruce, Bart., is about five miles from Coleraine. 
It was the property of the late Earl of Bristol at the time 
he held the see of Derry. From its elevated position it 
commands an extensive view, embracing the Giant's Cause- 
way, and contained a fine library and a valuable collection 
of paintings, most of which were burned when the mansion 
was accidentally destroyed by fire some years ago. 

Castlerock (5 miles from Coleraine on the main line 
— Marine Hotel), situated on the mouth of the river Bann, 
is a resort of sea-side visitors. It commands extensive 
views of Innishowen Head and Portstewart on towards 
the Giant's Causeway, with the wide sweep of the Atlantic 
directly in front of it. 

Portstewart (4 miles from Coleraine on the Portrush 
branch line — Imperial Hotel), is a watering-place with con- 
siderable claims to beauty. Three miles from it we gadn 

* At Mount Sandell, one mile south of the town, on right bank of Lho 
Bann, there is a large Danish fort. 



375 

POETRUSH 

Hotels.— The Antrim Arms— Coleman's. Three hours' ride by rail from 
Belfast. Steam-packets twice weekly to Glasgow, calling at Greenock. 

a busy seaport town, and considered as the port of Cole- 
raine, with which it is now connected by railway. It is 
situated within the shelter of a fine headland forming a 
peninsula, consisting of the celebrated Portrush rock. An 
obelisk was erected here in 1859 to Dr.. Adam Clarke, the 
Wesleyan, by his admirers. 

The White Rocks, on the way to Punluce, are among 
the most interesting objects on this extraordinary coast. 
It is said that within a distance of two miles there are not 
fewer than twenty-seven caverns, all natural excavations, 
worn by the action of the waves on the white limestone of 
which they are composed, into the most fantastic shapes. 
The most interesting is that known as " Priest's Hole." 
There is a good hotel here, and a fine smooth beach for 
bathing. 

DuNLUCE Castle, three miles to the east of Portrush, 
has a fame almost as wide spread as its neighbour the 
Causeway. One writer styles it the most picturesque ruin 
he ever beheld, and few having seen it will be inclined 
to question his judgment. Boldly facing the ocean rises a 
sharp, jagged, and precipitous mass of rock, on whose 
levelled summit rest a pile of ruins, turrets, walls, and 
towers, grey with age and exposure, more resembling con- 
tinuations of the rocks themselves than a separate forma- 
tion. Like Dunbar Castle, but far more perfect, it boldly 
looks down on the wild waves which have heat against its 
foundation for centuries. ^^Dunluce stands about one 
himdred feet above the sea, on a perpendicular and insulated 
rock, the entire surface of which is so completely occupied 
by the edifice, that the external walls are in continuation 
with the perpendicular sides of the rock. The walls of the 
building were never very lofty, but from the great area 
which they enclosed, contained a considerable number of 



37 6 BELFAST TO THE GIANT's CAUSEWAY. 

apartments." The rock, thougli insulated, is not completely 
water-bound, being united to the mainland, at the bottom 
of a deep chasm, by a single wall, not more than 18 inches 
broad. Owing to the perpendicular nature of the rock, 
it must have been impossible to take the castle, or to enter 
it at all, except by the bridge across the yawning chasm. 
Among the ruins is a small vaulted chamber, in which it is 
said a banshee resides. The reason assigned for this belief 
is, that the floor is always perfectly clean, the spirit being 
apparently more allied to the Scots brownie than the ban- 
shee, whose "mournful wail" foretells death or dishonour 
to the family whose attendant it is. The true solution of 
the problem is, that the wind having free access to and 
egress from the apartment, carries dust and dirt before it. 
Another chamber in the north-east side has fearful attrac- 
tions for the daring, but had better be avoided by the 
timid. The rock which formerly supported this room has 
fallen away, and, like a dovecot, it is suspended in the air 
only by its attachmant to the other buildings. The rock 
on which the castle is built is perforated by a long narrow 
cave, " penetrating completely through from the sea to the 
rocky basin on the land side of the castle. It may be 
entered by a small aperture on the south end, and at low 
water there is a good deal of flooring uncovered, which 
consists of large round stones. This form is the conse- 
quence of the action of the waves. The floor and roof are 
composed of basalt. There is a good echo in the cave 
when the water is calm. The era of the erection of Dun- 
luce Castle cannot with accuracy be named. It has been 
assigned to De Courcy, Earl of Ulster, but seemingly with- 
out sufficient evidence. It is known to have been in the 
hands of the English in the fifteenth century. In 1580, 
or thereabouts, Colonel McDonald, the founder of the family 
of MacDonnells of Antrim, came to Ireland to assist Tyr- 
connel against the CNeiQ, a powerful chieftain, and was 
hospitably entertained by McQuillan, the Lord of Dunluce, 
whom he assisted in subduing his savage neighboura. 



DUNLUCE CASTLE. 377 

Being successful in tlieir enterprise, MTDonald returned to 
Dunluce, and was pressed to winter in tlie castle, having 
his men quartered on the vassals of McQuillan. McDonald, 
however, took advantage of his position as a guest, and 
privately married the daughter of his host. Upon this 
marriage the MacDonnells afterwards rested their claim to 
McQuillan's territory." A conspiracy among the Irish to 
murder the Scottish chief and his followers was discovered 
to him by his wife, and they for a time made their escape, 
but again returned^ and in time possessed a considerable 
portion of Antrim. Endless traditions are extant, having 
their foundation in the wars, successes, and misfortunes of 
the McQuillans and their successors, the MacDonnells. 
The descendants of the former are now no more heard of 
as " kings and lords/' having fallen to the condition of 
" hewers of wood and drawers of water." The Scottish 
family became Lords of Antrim and Dunluce. In 1642, 
Dunluce Castle was the scene of a villanous act of treachery. 
In the month of April of that year. General Munroe made 
a visit to the Earl of Antrim at this castle, and was re- 
ceived with many expressions of joy, and honoured with 
splendid entertainments ; and further, the Earl offered him 
assistance of men and money to reduce the country to 
tranquillity. But Munroe afterwards seized on the Earl's 
person, and putting the other castles of his lordshij) into 
the hands of the Marquis of Argyle's men, conveyed the 
Earl to Carrickfergus, and imprisoned him in the castle of 
that place, from which he soon effected his escape, and 
withdrew to England. In the autumn of 1814 a visit was 
paid to the ruins of Dunluce by Sir Walter Scott, who 
observed a great resemblance in it to Dunottar Castle in 
Kincardineshire. A detailed description of the ruins is 
given in his diary. 

BUSHMILLS. 

Hotels. — Dohert^r's— Reid's. Population, 1050. 
This is an old town, 5 miles east of Portrush, and about 
8 miles from Coleraine. It derives its name from the 



378 giant's causeway. 

river Bush, on wMcli it is placed, and an old water-miU. 
now in ruins. On an adjoining liill stands the mansion- 
house of Dundarave, the seat of Sir E. Macnaghten, Bart., 
the proprietor of the district. Bushmills is a favourite 
resort for anglers, on account of the abundance of salmon 
in the " Bush." The tourist who desires to practise the 
" gentle art " will get much valuable information from the 
proprietor of the hotel. Two miles from Bushmills is the 
celebrated 

GIANT'S CAUSEWAY. 

Hotel. — The Causeway Hotel, where Guides may be engaged. 

Portcoon Cave ; Dunkerry Cave ; Tlie Steucans ; The Causeways, Little 
Middle, and Great ; the Giant's Gateway ; the Giant's Organ ; Port- 
noffer Bay ; Giant's Amphitheatre ; The Giant's Chimney-tops ; Port- 
na-Spania ; The Priest and his Flock ; The Nursing Child ; The Plea- 
skin ; Lion's Head ; The Twins ; The Giant's Pulpit ; Bengore Head ; 
The Giant's Granny ; The Four Sisters ; The Priest ; Portmoon Bay ; 
Waterfall ; The Stack ; Hen and Chickens ; Dunseverick Castle ; Doon 
Point ; Rathlin Island ; Bruce's Castle. 

Basaltic rocks occur more or less plentifully over the 
whole northern coast of the County Antrim, but the dis- 
trict embracing the most interesting variety of forms ranges 
over a space of about four miles from Portcoon Cave on 
the west to Dunseverick Castle on the east. It will be 
advisable, if the tourist have time, to take the circuit first 
in a boat, and have the various objects pointed out to him 
by the rower, and then to visit them by land in detail — 
the walk along the cliffs affording many magnificent views. 
We purpose first to devote a brief space to the general 
consideration of this distriet, and then describe the various 
objects in their order,, proceeding from west to east. Not 
until 1693 was public attention called to the Giant's 
Causeway, since which time the district has been visited by 
thousands of tourists, among whom were not a few scientific 
men. To form any conception of the appearance of this 
extraordinary work of nature, we must suppose a wild rocky 



BENGORE HEAD 




C. Bl.-.rlc,E.lrn-bm-sli 



380 giant's causeway. 

shore, with here a shoal, and there a beetling cliff, alter. 
nating with deposits of debris. But the majority of our 
rocks in cliffs are deposited in layers one above another ; 
whereas these are composed of perpendicular columns, some 
iaye, some six-sided, and though separate, fitting so closely 
together as to exclude, in some places, even a sheet of 
paper. The exposed ends of these columns form the 
Causeway, their entire lengths in other places forming the 
ribbed or fluted cragSj as in the Organ and Stack, resembling, 
but far surpassing in extent, the similar columns on 
Arthur Seat known as Sampson's Eibs. Nor are the pillars 
themselves continuous, but composed of several pieces fitted 
together by convex and concave surfaces. Of the figure of 
the pillars, we are told that " There is only one triangular 
pillar throughout the whole extent of the three Causeways. 
It stands near the east side of the Grand Causeway. There 
are but three pillars of nine sides ; one of them situated 
in the Honeycomb, and the others not far from the trian- 
gular pillar just noticed. The total number of four and 
eight sides bear but a small proportion to the entire mass 
of pillars, of which it may be "safely computed that ninety- 
nine out of one hundred have either five, six, or seven 
sides." It would be out of place here to enter into geolo- 
gical details. Such as take an interest in the stony science 
will become acquainted with the subject from other and 
more proper sources before setting out on their journey, 
and such as do not would only be confused by an array of 
trap rocks divided into basalt, felspar, hornblende, and 
such titles. It will be sufficient for the general reader's 
purpose, if we state that these columns are composed 
chemically of about one-haK flinty earth, one-quarter iron, 
and one-quarter clay and lime ; that they are plutonic in 
their origin, that is, formed by a perfect fusion of the in- 
gredients into one mass, which in cooling has cracked or 
crystallized into regular forms, as starch will on drying. 
Kohl's beautiful remarks on this subject are so much tc 
the point that we shall quote them — "TVith aU the ex- 



PORTCOON CAVE. 381 

planations that can be offered, however, so mnch is left 
unexplained, that they answer very little purpose. On a 
close investigation of these wonderful formations, so many 
questions arise, that one scarcely ventures to utter them. 
With inquiries of this nature, perhaps not the least gain is 
the knowledge of how much lies beyond the limits of our 
inquiries, and how many things that lie so plainly before 
our eyes, which we can see and handle, may yet be wrapped 
in unfathomable mystery. We see in the Giant's Cause- 
way' the most certain and obvious effects produced by the 
operation of active and powerful forces which entirely 
escape our scrutiny. We walk over the heads of some forty 
thousand columns (for this number has been counted by 
some curious and leisurely persons), all beautifully cut and 
polished, formed of such neat pieces, so exactly fitted to 
each other, and so cleverly supported, that we might fancy 
we had before us the work of ingenious human artificers ,• 
and yet what we behold is the result of the immutable 
laws of nature, acting without any apparent object, and by 
a process which must remain a mystery for ever to our un- 
derstanding. Even the simplest inquires it is often im- 
possible to answer ; such, for instance, as how far these 
colonnades run out beneath the sea, and how far into the 
land, which throws over them a veil as impenetrable as 
that of the ocean." 

PoRTCOON Cave, about half a mile west of the Causeway, 
is the first object on our way. It can be visited either by 
land or water.* Like most other caves, it has no striking 
peculiarity, and is merely interesting as a cave. The echo 
produced by a musical instrument is said to be delicious, 
while that of a loaded gun or small cannon is tremendous, 
and only suited to those who delight in the loud and noisy. 
The story goes that this cave was inhabited by a hermit 
giant, who, having a solemn oath never to touch food 
brought to him by human hands, was fed by seals, who 
carried him provisions in their mouths, 

DuNKERRY Cave is one which can only be entered by 

* Boat to the Caves, 2s. 6d. 



382 GIANTS CAUSEWAY. 

water. The entrance is tolerably regular, and somewhat 
resembles a Gothic arch. This cave is situated to the west 
of Portcoon. Perhaps the most peculiar circumstance con- 
nected with this cave is the rising of the water mthin in 
response to the swell of the ocean, which upon this coast 
is at all times heavy, and as each successive wave rolls 
into the cave, the surface rises so slowly and awfully that 
a nervous person would be apprehensive of a ceaseless in- 
crease in the elevation of the waters until they reached the 
summit of the cave. Of this, however, there need not be 
the most distant apprehension, the roof being sixty feet 
above the high-water mark. Many prefer the echo of this 
cave to that of Portcoon. We now proceed to 

The Steucans, two peculiar hills which divide the bays 
Portnabaw and Port Ganniay. A little way further we 
come upon the Giant's Well, sl little hole in the basaltic 
flooring of the place, which is generally filled with clear 
water. The legends which tell of the giant or giants who 
lived in this '^vdld retreat have of necessity furnished every 
means of subsistence and amusement for the portly inhabi- 
tants, such as organs, chimneys, a ball alley, and even a 
pulpit ; and in the face of so much of the briny deep it 
would be hard to refuse them a draught of pure cold water, 
and we accordingly find this little pool dubbed the Giant's 
WelL We are now, however, close beside the grand 
objects of our visit. 

THE CAUSEWAYS. 

The visitor, whoever he be, is almost certain to be dis- 
appointed as he gazes for the first time on the ultimatum 
of his pilgrimage, and to wish that he had been less curious, 
or more easily satisfied. This is more or less the case with 
every place of resort, but especially so here. So unlike to 
anything already seen or described is the appearance of 
the Causeway, that few will visit the scene without a first 
sensation not altogether ratifying. This impression; 



THE CAUSEWAYS 383 

luckily for the credit of tlie place, and fees of guides and 
other assistants, is but momentary, and makes way for a 
new feeling of curiosity blended with wonder. The Cause- 
way is divided into three tongues, the Little, the Lliddle, 
and the Grand Causeways. It would be impossible to 
give anything like a correct idea of the Causeway and its 
accompanying wonders by description ; all we can do is 
merely to tell the tourist how they can be seen, and 
enumerate a few of the leading objects most worthy of his 
study.* 

The Giant's Gateway and Loom, seen on turning to 
leave the Causeway, are composed of a series of columns, 
the perpendicular lengths of which are exposed to view. 
The Giant's Organ is a similar object, but more beautiful 
than either. " It forms no part of the Causeway, but is 
placed apart in the mountain, and consists of a number of 
large pillars, declining on either side to shorter and 
shorter ones, like the strings of a harp ; and we might 
really imagine a giant organist sitting playing at it, especi- 
ally as the basaltic pillars, when struck, give forth a 
metallic ring." The colonnade of pillars constituting the 
pipes of the Organ have evidently been exposed by some 

* Of the traditions without end which attempt to account for this won- 
derful natural production, we will content ourselves with one, assuring the 
tourist that he will hear dozens if he only stays long enough in the district, 
and keeps his ears and his pockets open. The giant Fin M'Coul was the 
champion of Ireland, and felt very much aggrieved at the insolent boasting 
of a certain Caledonian giant, who offered to beat aU who came before him, 
and even dared to teU Fin that if it were n't for the wetting of hunself, he 
would swim over and give him a drubbing. Fin at last applied to the 
king, who perhaps not daring to question the doings of such a weighty man, 
gave him leave to construct a causeway right to Scotland, on which the 
Scot walked over and fought the Irishman. Fin turned out victor, and 
with an amount of generosity quite becoming his Hibernian descent, kindly 
allowed his former rival to marry and settle in Ireland, which the Scot was 
not loath to do, seeing that at that time living in Scotland was none of the 
best, and everybody knows that Ireland was always the richest country in 
the world. Since the death of the giants, the Causewav. being no longer 
wanted, has sunk under the sea, only leaving a portion ot itself visible here, 
R little at the island of Rathlin, and the portals of the grand gate on Staffa, 



384 THE CAUSEWAYS. 

land-slip. Portnoffer Bay is passed, from which the 
Shepherds' Path leads over the cliff to a country perfectly 
level and grass-grown^ presenting a strange contrast to the 
^ironbound coast." 

"After Portnoffer Bay came the The Giant's Amphi- 
theatre." Kohl writes enthusiastically of this bay. " The 
bay called the Giant's Amphitheatre is certainly the most 
beautiful Amphitheatre in the world, that in Bome not 
excepted. The form of it is so exact half a circle, that no 
architect could have possibly made it more so, and the 
cliff slopes at precisely the same angle all round to the 
centre. Bound the upper part runs a row of columns 
eighty feet high ; then comes a broad rounded projection, 
like an immense bench, for the accommodation of the giaut 
guests of Fin MacCoul ; then again a row of pillars sixty 
feet high, and then again a gigantic bench, and so down to 
the bottom, where the water is enclosed by a circle ol 
black boulder stones, like the limits of the arena. This is 
a scene, in speaking of which no traveller need fear in- 
dulging in terms of exaggeration, for all that he can say 
must remain far behind the truth." 

The Giant's Chimney Tops are three isolated pillars 
standing on a promontory. The tallest of them is about 
forty-five feet in height. It is said that one of the ships 
belonging to the Spanish Armada was driven into the coast 
by stress of weather, and in the mist took these isolated 
columns, then more numerous, for the towers of Dunluce, 
and wasted their gunpowder in firing at them. Port-na- 
Spania, the bay at the west end of which these sentinels 
are placed, was, it is reported, the scene of the loss of one 
or more of the Spanish vessels, and certainly no coast 
could be more likely to destroy whatever sailed incautiously 
upon it. The Priest and his Flock, The Nursing Childy 
and King and his Nobles^ must all be passed before we 
reach 



385 



THE PLEASKLNT. 

* tlie finest of all the promontories, as tlie Giant's AmpM- 
theatre is of tlie bays." The Pleaskin is called hj the 
Irish Flaisgcian, which signifies " dry head/' in allusion to 
its elevation above the watery element. It rises to an 
altitude of about 370 feet, and exhibits numerous strata, 
according to some thirteen, and others " not less than 
sixteen." The appearance is fresh and lively, being topped 
with a rich green turf, and divided into layers of various 
colours. 

The following description is accurate in all its details, 
and is from the pen of a talented author before quoted : — 
" The natural basaltic rock here lies immediately under 
the surface. About twelve feet from the summit the rock 
begins to assume a columnar tendency, and is formed into 
ranges of rudely columnar basalt, in a vertical position, 
exhibiting the appearance of a grand gallery whose columns 
measure sixty feet in height. Iliis basaltic colonnade rests 
upon a bed of coarse black, irregular rock, sixty feet thick, 
abounding in air-holes. Below this coarse stratum is a 
second range of pillars, forty-five feet high, more accurately 
columnar, and nearly as accurately formed as the Cause- 
way itself. The cliff appears as though it had been painted, 
for effect, in various shades of green, vermilion rock, red 
ochre, grey lichens, etc. — ^its general form so beautiful — 
its storeyed pillars, tier after tier, so architecturally graceful 
— its curious and varied stratifications supporting the 
columnar ranges ; here the dark brown amorphous basalt,, 
there the red ochre — and below that again the slender but 
distinct lines of wood coal — all the edges of its different 
stratifications tastefully varied, by the hand of vegetable 
nature, with grasses, ferns, and rock plants. In the various 
strata of which it is composed, sublimity and beauty have 
been blended together in the most extraordinary manner." 
Leaving the Pleaskin, we continue our walk or sail easl- 
2C > 



386 DUNSEVERICK CASTLE. 

ward, passing Horse-shoe Harbour and the LiorHs Head, the 
Twins^ the Gianfs Pulpit, a bold precipitous rock, and 
Bengore Head. This last named should be ascended to 
command a magnificent view of the coast. A very pecuUar, 
though somewhat irregular pillar, called the GianCi 
Granny^ will attract the visitor's notice at this point, and 
not far from it four isolated columns, known as the Four 
Sisters, Bounding Port Fad we see the Priest, a solitary 
rock, and entering Portmoon Bay, observe a cataract rush- 
ing down to the sea, and the Stack, a peculiar mass of 
columns, resembling in general outline a corn-stack. 

Still further on, we pass a curious rock, termed the 
Hen and Chickens, and shortly arrive at Dunseverich Castle^ 
the ancient family seat of the O'Cahans or O'Kanes. The 
castle, as it now stands, is a melancholy remnant of its 
former self. On looking at its position it is dif&cult at 
first to imagine how it could ever be reached. Perched 
like a nest on the top of a bare insulated rock, without 
apparent access from either side, it would not require any 
great stretch of imagination to suppose that it was the work 
of the fantastic folk who did so much at the Causeway. 
" Immense masses of the rock have been hewn away^ 
evidently for the purpose of rendering the castle as inacces- 
sible as possible. An enormous basaltic rock, south of the 
entrance, also appears to have been cut, of a pyramidal 
form, and flattened on the top, perhaps as a station for a 
warder, or for the purpose of placing upon it some engine 
of defence." The structure, of which the ruins now remain, 
cannot date further back than the time of the M'Quillana 
of Dunlnce. 



387 

GIANT'S CAUSEWAY TO BELFAST, 
By the Coast Eoad. 





Places 


OF Interest on the Roaix. 






Page 




Ballycastle . 


, 


388 


Gray Man's Path 


Carrick-a-Rede 




387 


Kenbane Head 


Cushendun . 




391 


Lame . 


Fairhead 


, 


390 


Rathlin Island 


Glenarm 


, 


392. 





89f> 



389 



From the Causeway to Ballycastle is a distance of ll|- 
miles. The road which we traverse passes by the singular 
chasm of CarricJc-a-Rede. The meaniug of the term is 
" the roch in the roadj^ and was applied to the rock " be- 
cause it interrupts the salmon in their passage along the 
coast." It is an isolated rock of basalt standing up in the 
sea like a huge donjon keep. A flying bridge of ropes, 
some sixty feet in length, connects it with the shore, and 
over this the curious tourist has to pass at a rapid pace, 
and with a steady head, or he might be precipitated 
into the flood nearly ninety feet beneath him. "The 
danger in crossing is attributable to an irregularity in 
planting the foot upon the boards, which, of course, recoil 
against the impression too soon. Persons accustomed to 
walk along planks may safely venture over, and the 
women and boys attached to the fishery carry great loads 
across with the utmost contempt of danger and apparent 
ease." The salmon fishery off the island is of great conse- 
quence, and employs a considerable number of hands, who 
are paid in a proportionate allowance of the fish. The 
clerk and fishermen inhabit a cottage on the rock during 
summer, but retire to the mainland and withdraw the 
bridge on the approach of T\dnter. In the cliff near 
this island is a cave " about thirty feet in height, formed 
entirely of coliminar basalt, of which the bases appear to 
have been removed, so that the unsupported polygonal 
columns compose the cave." 



^88 giant's causeway to Belfast. 

Kenhane Head is abont three miles from Bally castle 
It is a narrow peninsula, formed of limestone, jutting out 
into tlie sea. The name is from Kenbaan, i,e.^ the white 
promontory, in allusion to the whiteness of the rock. 
Kenhane Castle, on this peninsula, is attributed to the early 
English settlers. " Tradition states this building to have 
been erected by the Irish sept of M^Hendrie ; but as its 
scanty ruins bear a striking resemblance to those castles 
reared by the first English settlers on the coast from the 
Boyne to the Bann, we think its erection may, with greater 
probability, be ascribed to them, or, if it be an Irish castle, 
it is at least erected on the plan of those of the adven- 
turers." In the time of Queen Elizabeth the Scottish 
clan M^Alister held it. In 1568 the Scots joined the 
McDonnells in a conspiracy against the English soldiers, 
which resulted in the death of two English horsemen. 
Soon after, the chief of the M^Alisters, " Kannel Oge 
M^Alister Caragh," was killed by some of the English. 
The fierce clansmen were ultimately brought to acknow- 
ledge English supremacy. 

BALLYCASTLE. 

Hotels. —Antrim Arms — Royal. Mail cars to Ballina, Ballyraoney, and 
to Larne via Cushendall. 

This is a respectably-sized town for the district, having 
somewhere about 2000 inhabitants. The ruias of a castle 
erected by McDonnell of Dunluce in 1609 stand near the 
church. The modern prosperity of the town is almost en- 
tirely due to the personal efforts of the late Hugh Boyd, 
Esq. He erected glass houses, tanneries, breweries, and a 
handsome quay. The quay cost about .£30,000. It is now 
of little value, and most of the manufactures established by 
Mr. Boyd have been neglected. The church was also erected 
at the expense of Mr. Boyd, who was interred within its 
walls upon the day of its consecration. He also endowed 
several charities, and, although a member of the Established 



BALLYCASTLE, 389 

Church, built a Presbyterian, a Methodist, and a Eoman 
Catholic place of worship. Coal is the only article of con- 
sequence produced by Ballycastle. About the year 1770 a 
most interesting discovery was made by some miners who 
were " pushing an adit" in the direction of a bed of coaL 
By accident they broke through into a passage similar to 
that in a mine. The passage was very narrow, and covered 
with deposits from the walls, so that it was with diJQiculty 
that two lads could find their way in. This passage con- 
ducted into several others, and at length the labyrinth 
became so perplexing that they gave up all hope of ever 
again seeing the day. The miners outside used every exer- 
tion to efifect an entrance, which they at last, after hours of 
toil, eventually did, but the ramifications of the passages 
were so intricate that in all probability they would never 
have reached the sufferers had they not kept beating with 
stones on the rock to attract the attention of their friends, 
who "ultimately restored them to the light of the sun, 
after an absence of twelve hours." When these collieries 
were first worked is not knoTNTi. That they yielded coal at 
least five centuries ago is presumed from the remains of 
coal found at Rathlin, and that they were sources of profit 
and comfort at a much earlier period is very probable. 
" Thirty-six chambers were discovered here, all trimmed 
and dressed by excellent hands ; also baskets and mining 
instruments, and other demonstrations of the original 
miner's knowledge and expertness in the art, equal to that 
of the present day. No tradition remains in the country 
of the working of this mine, and the peasantry, who attri- 
bute all works of antiquity in this kingdom to the Danes 
or the giants, in this instance prefer the former." 

Eathlin Islaxd, which is frequently seen from the 
great coast road, lies off the coast about five miles from 
Ballycastle. It is about eight miles in length, consisting of 
two arms almost at right angles with each other, respectively 
five and three miles in length. The large bay formed by 
the two is called Church Bay, from a place of worship 



890 GIANT S CAUSEWAY TO BELFAST. 

situated at the head of it. The island is about four to six 
miles from Ireland, and twelve or fourteen from the Mull 
of Oantire in Scotland. It will be easily imagined that 
this island is but a continuation of the basaltic formation 
from the Antrim coast, and, as it were, a link in that stony 
chain which binds it with Scotland. Kathlin is otherwise 
called Rachlin, Raughlinds, or Raghery, and nearly half a 
dozen other names. Robert Bruce, in 1306, during the 
wars between him and Baliol, fled to this island with 300 
men, returning to Scotland in the spring of the following 
year. The ruins of a castle, said to be inhabited by Bruce, 
and still bearing his name, are situated on a high, almost 
perpendicular piece of land, and from it may be obtained a 
view of the Scottish coast. The inhabitants, who number 
above a thousand, principally speak the Irish language. 

DooN Point, on Rathlin Island, exhibits columns of 
basalt of a peculiarly curved form. " Many resemble the 
bent trunks of trees, as if they had not been firm enough 
to stand upright, and had bent over and cooled in that 
position, and others appear as if thrust endmse into the 
mountain, and have their extremities sticking out." 

The Gray Man's Path is not far from BaUycastle, on 
the way to Fairhead. It is " a singular fissure in the face 
of the precipice." The passage is fearfully enticing, but 
luckily unattended with any great danger. " The entrance 
to the pass at the top is extremely narrow, and a joint of 
greenstone, which has fallen across it, forms a sort of natural 
gate, through which the bold inquirer must descend, and 
which conducts to a gradually expanding passage leading to 
the base." 

Fairhead is a bold promontory to the east of BaUy- 
castle Bay, where the " great masses of basaltic rock form 
a kind of plateau or table-land." This table-land slopes 
gradually on the land side, where it is covered with rich 
pasture, but to the sea presents a bold perpendicular cliff. 
"The highest point, about 636 feet above the level of the 
aea, is Cape Benmore or Fairhead." The entire headland 



FAIRHEAD. 391 

is widely dilferent in composition from the small, compact, 
close-grained basalt of the neighbourhood, being a ciystal- 
line greenstone supposed to belong to a different epoch. In 
a little hollow near the summit are two little lakesj about 
500 feet above the sea, the Dhu Lough, i.e., Black Lake, 
and Lough-na-Cranagh, the lake of the island. The island 
in this latter lake is said to have been made by the Druids, 
and used as the site of their religious ceremonies. " It 
rises in a perfectly regular oval figure from the surface of 
the water, and consists entirely of black basaltic rock, frag- 
ments of which lie round the shores of the lake in great 
numbers. Its position in the middle of a lake on the sum- 
mit of a vast headland is certainly one which they would 
have been likely to choose." The summit of Fairhead is 
just four miles distant from Eue Point in Rathlin. A fine 
extensive view is to be had from off this headland, the 
coast of Scotland, about seventeen miles distant, being dis- 
tinctly visible. The scenery along Murlough Bay to the 
east of Fairhead is wild and enticing. 

Continuing on by the coast road we pass Tor Head and 
Cushendun Bay, and enter the pretty little village of 
Cushenduriy picturesquely situated on the rapid Glendum 
river, which is spanned by a handsome viaduct eighty feet 
in height, supported by three arches, and erected at a cost 
of £17,000. Further south, at the head of Ked Bay, is 
Cushendall (Martin's Inn), one of the sweetest villages in 
Ulster. Between it and the last-named town the wild 
and desolate basaltic vale of Glenariff, the valley of 
Caverns, is passed. On a hill not far from this town the 
great Fin M^Coul is said to have resided ia regal splendour. 
A rath called Dundana Moarne is still poiQted out to the 
visitor as the site of his home. 

" The grave of Dallas," a Scots giant, or at least ia- 
truder, slain by Ossian, is also pointed out. The grave 
even of Ossian is said to be extant in a " little ruined ivy- 
covered church on the sea coast." Ossian is still a great 
favourite with the Irish, who cannot bring themselves to 



392 giant's causeway to Belfast. 

believe he died a heathen, and assert that he was converted 
by St. Patrick, though he died 200 years before that saint 
was born ! The coast here is full of caves, not a few of 
which have been the abode of smugglers and other daring 
characters. The road to Glenarni hugs the sea-shore ; 
occasionally crossing the outlets of glens of great beauty. 
Garron Tower, the seat of the Marquis of Londonderry, is 
passed about 4 miles before reaching Carnlough. 

GLENAEM. 

Hotel. — Antrim Arms. Mail cars to Lame and to Ballymena via 
Carnlough. 

This is a neat little town, consisting of about 200 cot- 
tages, situated in a beautiful vale opening on the pretty 
little bay of the same name. The castle of Glenarm, 
which is very ancient, is the seat of the Antrim family, 
but was modernized by the late Countess. It stands in a 
commanding position near the town, surrounded by a 
splendid deer-park, encompassed by an embattled wall. 
The remains of a monastic building are in the churchyard. 
This monastery was founded in 1465 by a Scotchman 
called Eobert Bisset, who had been banished from his own 
country for being accessory to the murder of the Duke of 
Atholl, and was therefore patronized and established here 
by Henry III. By marriage the property passed into the 
hands of the M'Donnells, who still inherit it. The ruins 
of the monastery are not picturesque or attractive. The 
tourist who can spend two or three days in sea-bathing 
could not select a better spot in Ireland than Glenarm. 
" A brook sparkles through the valley, and here and there 
little waterfalls run down the black rocks on either side, 
keeping the land well irrigated, and covering it with a 
carpet of the brightest verdure imaginable, as well as 
affording nourishment to the most beautiful clumps of 
stately old trees which dot it here and there. Near the 
village and castle all traces of wilderness vanish entirely, 



LARNB. 393 

and a chanmng park and pretty flower garden confer addi- 
tional beauties on the scene. The castle itseK is built in 
^ fine old Gothic style, and furnished with modern taste 
and elegance. Four hundred deer and stags graze around 
it, and six hundred old ancestral trees overshadow its 
grounds with their spreading boughs ; and all this smiling 
and peaceful beauty, sheltered between the wild black 
rocks which form the little glen, with a view opening on 
old ocean rolling his stormy white-crested waves beyond, 
forms perhaps the most wonderfid site in all the world for 
a stately baronial mansion." The drive between Glenarm 
and Larne is a more recent triumph of engineering than 
some of the roads we have passed. Formerly a narrow 
and difficult way, called " the Path," alone conducted the 
traveller along this coast, but now it is traversed by a very 
fine road, called the Antrim coast road. The road from 
Lame to Ballycastle, with its viaducts, cost £37,000. 
About four miles from Larne is a bold promontory known 
as Ballygawley Head, faced with enormous basaltic pillars, 
many joints of which are not less than eight feet in length. 
Near this, on a solitary rock in the sea, is Carn, built in 
1625 by the family of Shaw. It fell into the hands of 
the L?ish in the rebellion of 1641. It has little real 
interest, although it has given birth to a tradition about a 
tyrannical father and a love-lorn maid. 

LARNE. 

Hotel. — King's Arms. Mail cars to Carrickfergus ; to Ballycastle via 
Carlough and Cushendall, and to Glenarm. 

This is a quiet little town beautifully situated, but in 
no way distinguished from others of its class in the north 
of Ireland. The ancient name of Larne was Inver, which 
signifies a creek or inlet. The export trade is principally 
in rock-salt and limestone. Cotton goods and canvas are 
pretty extensively manufactured in the town. The popu- 



394 GIANlfs CAUSEWAY TO JBELFASt. 

lation of Lame is above 3000. There is a good parish 
churcli, besides chapels for Presbyterians^ Eoman Catholics, 
and Methodists. In the immediate vicinity is the ruined 
castle of Olderfieet, at one time "important as a defensive 
fortress against the predatory bands of Scots who invested 
the north-eastern coasts, and was generally under the 
direction of a governor." The office was held in 1569 by 
Sir Moyses Hill, but in 1598 it was thought no longer 
necessary, and accordingly abolished. The castle and ad- 
joining territory were granted in 1610 to Sir Arthur 
Chichester, the founder of the noble family of Donegal. 
It was here that Edward Bruce, the last monarch of Ire- 
land, landed with his band of Scots, when he endeavoured 
to free Ireland from English rule in 1315. A ferry plies 
regularly between Olderfieet and Magee Island, a peninsula 
which stretches to the north. Near the landing-place is 
an ancient cromlech, the covering stone of which is six 
feet in length, and triangular in shape, sloping to the east. 
At Brown*s Bay is a rocking-stone known as the " Giant's 
Cradle," said to acquire a tremulous motion on the approach 
of criminals. On the coast are the Gobbins, a range of 
basaltic cliffs, rising 200 feet perpendicularly from the sea. 
In the rebellion of 1641 the garrison of Carrickfergus 
conmiitted a heartless massacre on a party of Eoman 
Catholics on this peninsula, many of whom were forced 
over the Gobbins into the sea. ^' Until a late period, 
Island Magee was the reputed residence of witches, and the 
theatre of sorcery." The railroad to Carrickfergus conducts 
us along the west side of Larne Lough, which presents the 
appearance of an inland lake, and has only a very nar- 
row entrance from the sea near the town of Larne. Pass- 
ing the village of Glynn, with the ruins of an ancient 
church once dependent upon the abbey of Kells, we reach 
the village of Ballycarry, interesting as the site of the 
first Presbyterian church established in Ireland. It was 
opened in 1611, the Rev. Edward Brice being pastor. 
The village also contains the ruins of Templecoran, a 



ENNISKHiLEN TO THE GIANT's CAUSEWAY. 



395 



melanclioly remnaiit of its former self. The next station 
is Kilroot, a parish, once held by Dean Swift The salary 
attached to it was only £lOO at the time Swift held it. 
The church in which he preached is now a ruin. From 
Lame the railway may be taken to BeKast, 24 miles dis- 
tant. 



ENNISKILLEN TO THE GIANTS CAUSEWAY BY 
LONDONDEREY AKD COLERAINE, 

(By railway to Portrush, thence by car.) 





Id 


lies. 




MHes 


Enniskillen. 






Londonderry . 


H 


6C 


BaLLINA MALLARD 


. 


6 


CULMORE . 


5 


65 


LOWTHERSTOWN BOAD . 2^- 


Sh 


Muff . . . . 


2i 


67i 


Trellick 


. . n 


10 


Faughanvale . 


3| 


Hi 


Dromore Boad 


. 4 


14 


Carrickhtjgh . 


li 


72i 


FiNTONA 


. 6 


20 


NE WTOWN -LiM A V AD Y. 






Omagh . 


. 6 


26 


Bellarena 


71 


80J 


Mount Joy 


. 31 


29| 


Magilligan 


3 


83i 


Newtown-Stewart 


. 6 


35| 


Down Hill 


3 


S6i 


ViCTORLA. BrLDQE 


. . 4i 


40 


Castle Bock 


U 


s:h 


SioN Mills 


. If 


41| 


COLERAIIJTE 


6i 


93 


Strabane 


. . 4i 


45 


Port Stewart . 


3i 


96i 


PORTHAJLL 


. 3 


48 


Portrush 


3 


99^ 


St. Johnston's 


. 4i 


52^ 


Bushmills 


4f 


100^ 


Carrigans 


. 2 

7»Q1 iTirOtT" 


54i 


GLA^TT'S CAUSEWAy 
an "Fl-n-nisTrillp-n fln 


2 
rl Pnrt 


106i 
rush 



affords increased facilities to tourists who desire to reach 
the Giant's Causeway from the midland or western districts 
of Ireland. 

That part of the route lying between Mullingar and 
Enniskillen will be found in another portion of the book. 
Soon after leaving Enniskillen, the line enters the county 
of Tyrone, first stopping, however, at Ballinamallard station, 
a village on a river of the same name. 

The county of Tyrone was formerly the territory of the 
O'Neills, and from them called H^ Nellia, till the rebellion 
of the chief in 1597, and "the plantation of Ulster" by 



396 ENNISKILLEN TO THE GIANt's CAUSEWAY. 

James L It contains about 1260 square miles, nearly one- 
half of the area being uncultivated hill and bog. 

Omagh, the county town, in the centre of a very much 
improved district, has been almost entirely rebuilt since 
1743, in which year it was destroyed by fire. To the 
north of Omagh is the once magnificent demesne of Mount- 
joy Forest, the residence of the late Earl of Blessington, 
but now broken up and sold in lots. Thence the line 
runs through the valleys of Strule and Mourne to New- 
town-Stewart and Strabane. 

Newtown-Stewart is a finely-situated village, the most 
attractive object in which is the ruin of an ancient castle 
near the bridge. 

Strabane, a town with about 5000 inhabitants, and 
entirely belonging to the Marquis of Abercorn, is one of 
those small manufacturing towns that are more useful than 
ornamental. It is situated on the river Mourne, near its 
junction with the Finn, contains several places of worship, 
and many well-built houses, and is one of the best linen- 
markets in the north of Ireland. 

The line now enters the County Donegal, and skirts 
along the boundary line by the west side of the river 
Foyle, till it reaches Londonderry. A little before reach- 
ing the town we enter the County of Berry ^ as it was origi- 
nally called, before the "Society of the Governor and 
Assistants of London of the New Plantation in Ulster" 
became its possessors. This company, now known by the 
name of " The Honourable the Irish Society," obtained a 
charter in 1 6 1 3. It consisted of the twelve trades of Lon- 
don, who each paid a share of the sum required for raising 
cities and fortifications. The principal trade companies 
forming this society were the following : — mercers, haber- 
dashers, merchant-tailors, drapers, clothworkers, goldsmiths, 
grocers, fishmongers, salters, ironmongers, vintners, and 
skinners. Each company became possessed of a certain 
extent of land, and was bound to see it " planted," but 
many neglected the bargain, believing it to be unprofitable. 



LONDONDERRY. 297 

The Society itself, however, retained and still keeps in its 
possession the " lionses of Coleraine and Derry, the lands 
attached thereto/' etc., as not being capable of division. 
Under the date 27th July 1616, the substance of the 
following note occurs — " Communications were made by 
the Irish Society to the Goldsmiths' Company urging them 
to perform the conditions of plantation, and execute the 
necessary works on their proportion, which, as well as the 
proportions of other companies, appeared at this period to 
proceed with great slowness." 

LONDONDEREY 

Hotels. — Jury's — Imperial — CommereiaL Pop. 25,000. 

is situated on the magnificent river Foyle, just before it 
flows into the lough of the same name, and which more 
than half surrounds the hill on which the city stands. 
" It is a city and county of itself, and was built by the 
citi2;ens of London in the reign of James I. It is a corpo- 
rate town, returning one member to Parliament, and gives 
the title of marquis to the family of Stewart. George 
Farquhar, the dramatist, of whom it was said that he ' was 
a better artist in stage effect and happy combination of 
incident and character, than any of his race of comic 
writers,' was bom in Londonderry in 1678. An abbey 
for regular canons of the Augustine order was founded in 
Londonderry in 546 by St. Columbkille. In 1218 Furlogh 
Leinigh founded an abbey for Cistercian nuns ; and in 
1274 a Dominican friary was built ^ by request of St. 
Dominick.'" The town was fortified with walls, which are 
still preserved as a promenade, and there were six gates. 
" The four original gates were called the Bishop's Gate, 
the Ship Quay Gate, the New Gate, and the Ferry Port or 
Ferry Gate ; two others, commonly called the New Gate 
and the Castle Gate, were subsequently added. Between 
1805 and 1808 the three first were rebuilt. The Bishops 
Gate and Ship Quay Gate are alone embellished. The 



398" EIs^XlSKILLEN TO THE GIANT's CAUSEWAT. 

former is a triumplial arch, erected to the memory of 
William III. in 1789 by the corporation, with the concur- 
rence of the Irish Society, at the centenary of the opening 
of the Gates." 

The appearance of the town from the opposite side of 
the river is very picturesque. A gentle hill is covered 
with habitations of various shapes and dimensions, the 
whole terminated by the graceful spire of the church on 
the very summit of the hilL Of late years much has been 
done towards rendering the town worthy of its ancient 
fame. An iron bridge, of elegant structure, here crosses the 
Foyle. The cathedral, a plain Gothic building, erected 
1633, stands upon the summit of the hill, and contains 
some curiosities of the siege, such as a bomb-shell, flag- 
staves, etc. It is worth while ascending its tower for the sake 
of the fine view of the neighbourhood which it commands. 
By far the most interesting object in the town is the 
monument raised in 1828 to the memory of the Rev. 
George Walker. It consists of a handsome Doric column, 
surmounted by a statue. A cannon has been placed ^t 
each of the three sides. 

The siege of Derry has often been painted and described. 
" A letter," we are told, " was dropt at Cumber, in the 
County Down, where the Earl of Mount Alexander resided, 
dated December 3, 1688, informing that nobleman that on 
Sunday, the 9th of the month, the Irish throughout the 
whole island, in pursuance of an oath which they had taken, 
were to rise and massacre the Protestants, men, women, and 
children ; and warning him to take particular care of him- 
self, as a captain's commission would be the reward of the 
man who would murder him." The alarm spread through 
the country, and reached Derry, but not in sufficient time 
to take any important steps to secure the city. "The 
Protestants were terrified ; several of them assembled in 
groups through the streets. The apprentice boys, with a 
mob of the lower orders along with them, muttered some- 
thing about shutting the gates. They got some private 



THE SIEGE OP DERRY. 399 

encouragement to do so at first^ but tliat was soon retracted, 
and tlie minds of all the men of weiglit fluctnated in a 
miserable doubt of the most prudent course to take." Two 
companies of the Irish appeared on the opposite bank of 
the stream, and the officers were ferried over to make 
proposals for entering the town, which was nearly betrayed 
into their hands by the treachery of the deputy-mayor, 
who was inclined to favour James. The soldiers getting 
impatient for the return of their officers, crossed the river, 
and were within three hundred yards of the Ferry Gate. 
" The young men of the city observing this, about eight or 
nine of them, whose names deserve to be preserved in 
letters of gold, viz. — Henry Campsie, William Crookshanks, 
Robert Sherrard, Alexander Irwin, James Steward, Eobert 
Morrison, Alexander Coningham, Samuel Hunt, with James 
Spike, John Coningham, William Cairns, Samuel Harvey, 
and some others who soon joined them, ran to the main- 
guard, seized the keys, after a slight opposition, came to 
the Ferry Gate, drew up the bridge, and locked the gate. 
Lord Antrim's soldiers had advanced within sixty yards of 
it." The siege lasted one hundred and five days, during 
which time the towns-people were reduced to the direst 
extremities. "Reduced," writes the historian,* "to the 
extremity of distress, and endeavouring to support the 
remains of life by such miserable food as the flesh of dogs 
and vermin, even tallow and hides, nor able to find more 
than two days' provisions of such substances, the garrison 
was still assured by the harangues of Walker in a prophetic 
spirit, that G^d would relieve them ; and men reduced 
abnost to shadows made desperate sallies, but were unable 
to pursue their advantage." The besiegers had thrown a 
boom across the river to prevent all navigation, and Kirk, 
the Orange admiral, had already been deterred by it from 
attempting the relief of the town. At length two provision 
ships and a frigate drew near to the city. One ship 
" dashed with giant strength against the barrier, and broke 
* Gordon's History of Ireland. 



400 El>r:NISKILLEN TO THE GIANrs CAUSEWAY. 

it in two, but, from the violence of the shock, rebounded, 
and ran upon the river's bank. The satisfaction of the 
enemy was displayed by an instantaneous burst of tumul- 
tuous joy. They ran with disorder to the shore, prepared 
to board her, when the vessel firing a broadside, was 
extricated by the shock, and floated out nobly into the 
deep again." It was calculated that two thousand three 
hundred of the citizens died of famine or by violence in 
the siege.* 

For a considerable distance the line now lies along the 
south-east shore of Lough Foyle, a triangular arm of the 
sea about 15 miles long by 10 wide, with extensive sand- 
banks on the sides, and a large sandy island, Shell Island, 
in its centre. 

Soon after passing Carrickhugh, a branch about 2|- miles 
in length leads to Newtown-Limavady, a clean and well- 
built town, where the linen trade is still carried on, but 
not with the same spirit as formerly. In the vicinity are 
several beautiful demesnes. At Bellarena, the seat of Sir 
Frederick Heygate, Bart., the scenery on the right 
becomes more picturesque, the cliff rising to a considerable 
height overhead. Between Bellarena and Magilligan these 
cliffs are especially fine, though they continue all the way 
to Dunhill, where stand the ruins of a mansion erected by 
the late Earl of Bristol, when Bishop of Derry, but some 
years since accidentally burned. The line now lies along 
the west side of the river Bann to Coleraine, the route 
from which to Portrush and the Causeway has already 
been described. 

* About a mile from the city is the Magee Protestant College, a handsome 
building which cost £20,000, left by Mrs. Magee of Dublin, for the txainiag 
of Presbyterian ministers in Ireland. 



MAP OF 
'OYLE & MALm HEAD 



Scale of Miles. 

3 4f h 6 



I 



401 

Excursion from 
LONDONDERRY TO MALIN HEAD. 

[By rail to Buncrana.] 

Leaving Deny by the Lough S willy railway, we shall 
pass, two miles to our left, the Grianan of Aileach, situate 
upon a hill rising 802 feet above the level of the sea, on 
which stand the remains of a royal residence, " one of the 
most remarkable and important works of its kind ever 
erected by the ancient Irish." 

Colonel Blacker, who examined the ruins, was of opinion that they were 
the remains of a temple dedicated to the worship of the sun. *' To the 
casual observer, the first appearance of the edifice is that of a truncated 
cairn of extraordinary dimensions ; hut on a closer inspection it will be 
found a building, constructed with every attention to masonic regularity, 
both in design and workmanship, A circular wall, of considerable thick- 
ness, encloses an area of eighty-two feet in diameter. Judging from the 
number of stones which have fallen off every side, so as to form, in fact, a 
sloping glacis of ten or twelve feet broad all round it, this wall must have 
been of considerable height — probably from ten to twelve feet — but its 
thickness varies : that portion of it extending from north to south, and 
embracing the western half of the circle, being but ten or eleven feet ; 
whereas, in the corresponding, or eastern half, the thickness increases to 
sixteen or seventeen, particularly at the entrance." 

Several interesting caves exist at the base of the hilL 
The railroad affords many beautiful views of the S willy, 
and gives a good foretaste of the beauties of the Donegal 
highlands. At the mouth of a valley watered by the 
Owen kin en river, is Buncrana {Inn : Commercial), beauti- 
fully situated on Lough Swilly, 14 miles from Derry, 
with an old castle of the O'Dohertys, restored in the be- 
ginning of the last century by Sir J. Yaughan. 

From Buncrana a pleasant drive of 8 miles leads to the 
Gap of Mamore, a wild ravine between hills of 1300 feet 
in height, three miles beyond which is the granite head- 
land of Dunaff, the eastern boundary of the entrance of 
Lough Swilly. Dunaff Head is 682 feet high, and the 
2 D 



MAP OF 
l.OrGH FOYLE cK, SIALm HEAD 




402 EXCURSION TO MALIN HEAD. 

Raglitii] Hills, whicli are traversed by the Gap of Mamore, 
rise, in the peak called Raghtin More, to 1657 feet. 

Another good road from Buncrana takes the tourist 
through the wild rocky district of the Mintiaghs or the 
Bar of Inch to Carndonagh, about 12 miles. He will see 
on his right Slieve Main (1557 feet) and Slieve Snaght 
{^the Snow Mountain, 2019 feet),. while on his left he will 
have equally fine views of Raghtin and other mountains. 
The view down the valleys will often be closed by great 
expanses of white sandhills heaped for miles along the 
shores by the fury of the Atlantic waves. 

Carndonagh, a neat thriving little town, and the capital 
of the mountain district, is situated on a river which falls 
into Trabreaga Bay, on the northern side of which is. 
Malin, where, there is a tidy little inn. From thence the 
promontory of the same name is a little more than eight 
miles. 

Malin Head, the most northern point of land in Ireland, 
is of no great elevation (226 feet), but is a prominent 
object when seen from the sea. The view from this 
Ultima Thule of the iron-bound coast is extensive and 
varied. If the traveller be a geologist, he will find it 
quite worth his while to stay a night at the inn at Malin^ 
and visit Malin Head to examine the granite there, and to 
study the magnificent sections of the metamorphic slates, 
quartz rocks, and greenstone bands, exhibited by the cliffs 
on the coast from Malin to Glengad Head, and thence to 
Culdaff Bay. 

Some beds of highly metamorphosed limestone will in- 
terest him about Culdaff, whence he could either continue 
his route to Inishowen Head, or strike across to Moville, 
which is about ten miles from Culdaff. 



403 



Excursion from 
LONDONDERRY TO INISHOWEN HEAD. 

[By public car to Mo\'ille ; thence by hired car. ] 



Londonderry. 

Muff 

Eskaheen (I) 
Cnockglass (I) 

Carrowkeel 



Miles. 



4i lOJ 



Red Castle. 


3Iile5. 


White Castle. 




MOVILLE 


8 181 


Green Castle. 




iNiSHOWEN Head . 


6i 25 



On the west side of the upper end of Lough Foyle is 
the village of Muff ; leaving which, and continuing on the 
side of the lough, in the shallow sandbanks of which 
numerous wading and swimming birds are constantly dis- 
porting themselves, on the left rise Eskaheen (1377 feet) 
and Cnockglass (1295 feet), and before us the village of 
Carrowkeel, north of which the road is enlivened by nume- 
rous summer residences. Red Castle, once a seat of the 
Careys, and White Castle, with the adjoining ruins of an 
old mansion, are close to the road, overlooking the lough. 

Moville, a clean, pleasant town, backed by high hills, 
and possessing many features of the picturesque, is an em- 
bryo watering-place ; and certainly few more eligible sites 
could be selected. Passing Green Castle — where the 
American mail steamers on the northern route call for 
latest telegrams — the ruined fortress of the O'Dohertys, 
and Dunagree light-house, Inishowen Head is gained. 
From the Head itself, and still better, from the hill behind 
it, is obtained an extensive panoramic view of the coasts of 
Londonderry and Antrim, embracing Port Stewart, Port- 
rush, the Skerries, the Giant's Causeway, and Bengora 
Head. 

Speaking of the west side of Longh Foyle, Sir Walter Scott says—" No- 
thing can be more favourable than this specimen of Ireland — a beautiful 
variety of cultivated slopes, intermixed with banks of wood ; rocks skirted 
with a distant ridge of heathy hills, watered by various brooks ; the glens 
or banks being in general planted or covered with copse.** 



404 



THE HIGHLANDS OF DOOTIGAL. 

Thougli by no means so frequently visited by tourists ag 
other parts of Ireland, the county of Donegal is second to 
none in tbe wildness of its scenery. The ornithologist and 
mineralogist* have long been familiar with its charms, 
but to the general tourist these have remained till lately 
almost a sealed book. 

The railway extension, however, to Stranorlar has now 
opened this interesting country to tourists in such a way 
that a few days will be sufficient to show the main features 
of its scenery. The traveller will not expect, of course, to 
find the same accommodation in the way of hotels and 
coaches here as in the more populous parts of the island ; 
but, with a little judicious planning, three days may suffice 
to take the traveller right round the coast of Donegal, and 
a fourth day enable him to take an extra excursion into 
the interior. No doubt, to see all that is worth seeing, at 
least six days should be spared ; and taking into account 
the usual amount of bad weather that prevails, an extra 
day for rainy weather should be allowed. 

In order to facilitate the travelling arrangements, a 
sketch-map of the district is given, which, with the short 
descriptions of the main tours, should enable the tourist to 
understand the routes to be followed. 

The two main " bases" for visiting Donegal are London- 
derry on the north and Enniskillen on the south. From 
the former, the county can be entered via Buncrana or 
Stranorlar in a couple of hours by rail ; while from the 
latter town a coach, via Lough Erne and Ballyshannon, 
will take the visitor to the town of Donegal in one day. 



• Among tlie more interesting minerals of Donegal may be mentioned 
garnets of large size, many of them curiously pseudomorphous, idocrase, 
rose and blue quartz, diospore, steatite in great quantities, epidote, scapo- 
Ute, andalusite, kyanite, beryl, and asbest, besides many varieties of granite, 
gneiss, and of white crystalline marble. 



THE HiGHLANDS 




I 




J-jHrtn-J'*^ 



LETTERKENNY. 



405 



from wMcli place lie can commence his route northwards. 
The two main routes from Londonderry are as fol- 
lows : — 



1. Coast Road, 




Coast Road — Contin., 


2. MiDLAlTO ] 


Road, 


From north to south. 


From north to soutK 


From east to west. 


Letterkenny. 


Miles. 


Gweedore 


Miles. 


Letterkenny 


MilesL 


Milford 




7 


Dunglow 


. 14 


Kilmacrenan 


7 


Glen . . 




15 


Glenties 


. 36 


Glenbeagh . 


. 15 


Creeslougli . 




19 


Ardara 


. 42 


Calabber . 


. 18 


Dunfanaghy 




26 


Killybegs 


. 52 


Errigal 


. 22 


Crossroads . 




33 


Donegal 


. 69 


Dunlewy . 


. 25 


Gweedore . 




59 


Stranorlar 


. 86 


Gweedore . 


. 30 



Coast Koad round County Donegal. 



Leaving Londonderry by the Lough Swilly railroad, 
half an hour's drive will take us to Fahan on Loch 
Swilly, where a steamer starts in connection with the 
train for Rathmullan (3 miles) on the other side of the 
estuary. From here the steamer proceeds up the Lough 
to Eathmelton, and from thence the best plan is to take a 
car to Kilmacrenan, where we can join the stage. By 
this means the admirable scenery of the Swilly is seen to 
advantage, particularly if the tourist has time when at 
Rathmullan to ascend Croaghan, a hill of about 1000 feet, 
and affording a magnificent prospect. A regular mail- 
car proceeds from Letterkenny, via Kilmacrenan, to Dun- 
fanaghy ; but this is not nearly so interesting a route as 
the longer one round by Milford and Glen. 

Letterkenny (Inn : Hegarty's), a small thriving town 
with about 2000 inhabitants, is our starting-point. Taking 
the road to Rathmelton (7 miles), we shall soon have some 
fine views of the Swilly on the right, and on the left we 
leave the demesne of Ballyare, the seat of Lord George 
HilL From Rathmelton {Inn : Brown's) the road con- 
tinues to skirt the coast, with Glenalla demesne on the 
left, until Rathmullan (6 miles) is reached. Should 
the tourist so desire, this is a good point from which 



406 HIGHLANDS OF DONEGAL. 

to visit Fanad Head, and tlie coast scenery in tlie neigh- 
bourhood, and a good road leads along the peninsula the 
whole way. The coast road now strikes across Fanad pen- 
insula to Milford (7 miles), near which many fine views 
are obtained of Mulroy Bay, one of the long irregular inlets 
that strike into the coast of Donegal, and render the 
scenery so very interesting. Short excursions may be 
made from here round the shores of Mulroy Bay by boat 
or car, while a road by the east side of the inlet will en- 
able the pedestrian to walk round by Doocarrick Bay, and 
crossing by Morass and Rawros ferries, strike the coast road 
at Eawros again one and a half mile from Carrickhart. A 
short excursion may also be made from Milford, up country 
one and a half mile, to Lough Fern, a rather uninteresting 
lake, one and a half mile long by three-quarters in breadth. 
Proceeding again from Milford north-westwards, the road 
soon crosses the Bunlin, a picturesque little stream, and 
shortly commences to leave the bay on the right, and 
ascends by several windings until a little tarn called Lough 
Natooey is reached. Descending from this point we reach 
the little village of Glen (8 miles), situated at the north 
end of Glen Lough, a narrow lake two and a haK miles 
long, which is connected with Glen Beagh by the Owen- 
carrow river. A pleasant excursion may be made by the 
Ej-lmacrenan road to Lough Salt (3 miles) and its neigh- 
bouring lakelets, Reelan and Greenan, 900 feet above the 
sea-level. Immediately after leaving Glen for Creeslough 
the road traverses the sandy plains of Sheephaven, and 
presents some very fine prospects of that inlet and the 
mountains behind. The sand has so accumulated at the 
head of Sheephaven on the eastern shore, that the aspect 
of the scene in that direction is rendered very desolate. A 
short distance, however, before reaching Creeslough, the 
traveller has a good view of Ards House and grounds on 
his right, on the west shore of the haven ; while, haK a mile 
to the right of the road, near Cashel Church, is Doe Castle ; 
and this is worthy of a visit, as being one of the " keeps " 



DUNFANAOHT. 407 

of the M^Swines, where a gallows is still preserved for un- 
welcome visitors 1 Crossing Duntally, we reacli the village 
of Creeslough (4 miles), situate close to a little lake called 
Lough More, at the foot of Muckish Mountain, which 
forms a prominent object here. Pursuing the coast road 
we reach Dunfanaghy (7 miles — Inn : Stewart Anns), 
where an excursion should, if possible, be made to the 
cliffs of Horn Head (833 feet). 

M^Swine's Gun, on the south-western margin of the 
peninsula, about two miles from Dunfanaghj, is a curi- 
ous cavern of considerable size, scooped out of the solid 
rock by the action of the waves, and through which the 
surge dashes with great violence, causing, it is said, a re- 
port louder than a discharge of artillery* The continued 
action of the sea, however, has now so far destroyed the 
intensely hard trap rock, in which this cave has been 
worn, that the noise is seldom heard above the roar of the 
breakers. 

Torry Island lies to the north-west of Horn Head, from 
which it is distant about eight miles. Should the day be 
calm, a visit to this island will repay the tourist in search 
of antiquities. Buried deep in sand are the ruins of 
dwellings, churches, and crosses, indicating, along with the 
venerable round tower, an early colonisation of this isolated 
spot. At present there are few inhabitants. Dunfanaghy 
is also the most convenient point from which to make the 
ascent of Muckish Mountain (2197 feet). This is one of 
the ridge of hills of which Mount Errigal is the loftiest. 
Proceeding on our route, the road, taking a more inland 
course, crosses the Ray river at Carrowcannon church, and 
haK a mile further skirts on the right the demesne of Bal- 
lyconneL At Crossroads (7 miles), a road leads off to the 
left to Lough Beagh (10 miles) and Kilmacrenan (18 
miles). The Gweedore road proceeds in a western direction 
to the Glen river, then leaving the Bloody Foreland two and 
a half miles to the right, takes a southerly course to Bun- 
beg church. A couple of miles further up the Clady 



408 HIGHLANDS OP DONEGAL. 

river is our halting-place, Gweedore Hotel (16 miles); 
a comfortable house, with angling privileges in the rivera 
Gweedore and Clady. The estate of Gweedore belongs to 
Lord George Hill, whose name will long be associated with 
the county of Donegal as of one who has done much, 
when much was needed, for the weKare of this backward 
district. Excursions may be made from here to Mount 
Errigal, a conical hill, the highest in Donegal (2466), and 
conveniently ascended from this point ; also to Loughs 
Nacung and Altan ; and, if desired, he may return to 
Kilmacrenan by way of Dunlewy. 

Resuming the journey southwards, a moorland road — 
after crossing the Gweedore at Crolly bridge — strikes the 
coast a couple of miles further on at Annagary Strand, an 
inlet of the sea blocked with sand ; and for some miles 
after this we again go inland, passing several wild and 
desolate-looking mountain tarns, said to be well stocked 
with large trout. On the right are Arran Isle and 
Rutland Island, lying a mile off the coast ; and as we 
again approach the sea, arrive at Dunglow (14 miles), 
where there is an inn for refreshments. A short excursion 
may be made from here, if time is not pressing, round the 
coast to Crolly Head, where there is an old tower, and 
along the shore numerous caverns. The next stage is a 
long one. After leaving Dunglow, the country becomes 
very wild, and many dark mountain lakes are met with. 
The views of the mountains to the left are very fine and 
varied. About eight miles the road descends into the 
valley of Gweebarra, and crosses that romantic stream at 
Doochary bridge. From this point an excursion may be 
made into the interior by a cross-road which starts up the 
valley of the Owenee, skirting the base of Slieve Snaght, 
on through Glen Beagh to the Kilmacrenan road at Glen 
Beagh bridge, a stretch of 1 6 miles. This, however, should 
only be attempted by the pedestrian in the long days of 
summer, or with the help of a car for half the distance. 
Resuming our route southwards we soon commence ascend- 



KILLYBEGS. 409 

ing tlie south side of the Gweebarra valley, and leave that 
river on the right. Several high hills are passed on the 
left — Aghla (1961), Knockrawer (1481), and others. At 
Shallogan bridge a short road comes in from Dunglow, via 
Trawenagh Bay and Ballymacarrick ferry, saving seven 
miles of distance compared with the one just described, 
but which is of little use on account of the ferry that must 
be crossed. A few miles further we reach the village of 
Glenties (22 miles), where there is an inn. A pleasant 
antiquarian excursion may be made from here round Dun- 
more Head by Maas. Some very interesting Irish remains 
of round towers will be found at BuUigs Island, and at 
Doon and Kiltooris Loughs. Six miles from Glenties is 
Ardara {Inn : Molaney's), and ten miles further is Killy- 
begs {Inns : Eoger's and Coane's), a good base for visiting 
the southern district of Donegal, 1 7 miles distant from the 
town of Donegal, via Mount Charles, and 34 miles from 
Stranorlar, via Barnesmore Gap (see p. 4 1 3). 

A most pleasant excursion may be made from Killybegs 
westwards to Carrick and Slieve League, through a country 
rich in the picturesque, and sure to afford unending de- 
lights to the tourist who is fond of long pedestrian rambles, 
and can subsist for a day on the contents of his wallet. 
Among the more interesting localities may be mervtioned 
the route to Ardara, embracing the Glen Columbkille 
Mountains ; that to Teelin Bay, Glen Bay, and Gweebarra 
Bay. The cliffs of Slieve League, ten miles west of Killy- 
begs, are very grand, rising in a steep face of rugged and 
broken rock to a height of 1972 feet from the level of 
the sea. 

At the base of the mountain lies the village of Carricks, 
in which T. ConoUy, Esq., M.P., has lately erected a most 
comfortable hotel, and where tourists will find guides to 
conduct them to the summit of Slieve League. From 
Carricks, the tourist should proceed to Malin Mere, a dis- 
tance of 6 miles ; and thence to Glen Columbkille, a dis- 
tance of 3 miles. The bold headlands, the eagle crags, the 



410 HIGHLANDS OF DONEGAL. 

wild cliffs and fantastic islands of Stirral Purt and Glen- 
lough, which can easily be reached by a pedestrian, are 
unrivalled by the scenery of any other part of Ireland ; 
while the ferns and grasses, and wild flowers of the dis- 
trict, will amply reward the toil of the botanist. Tradi- 
tion reports that " Prince Charlie " sought refuge for a 
time amid these wilds ; and a rock at Glenlough, from 
which he is said to have stepped into the boat that 
carried him off, is still pointed out, and called Prince 
Charlie's Eock. The journey along the cliffs from Glena 
Bay to Ardara can easily be performed in a long summer 
day ; in calm weather a boat can be procured, with hardy 
and experienced fishermen, at small expense. And the 
traveller can thus visit some of the caves that abound 
along the coast. 

MIDLAND EOUTE THEOUGH DONEGAL. 

FROM LETTERKENNY TO GWEEDORE. 

Leaving Letterkenny, the road traverses an open coun- 
try, and, after crossing the Glashagh, affords views of Lough 
Fern on the right, and in front the pretty village of Kil- 
macrenan (7 miles) with its abbey, founded by St. Columb, 
and of which the tower still remains. An excursion may 
be made from here to Gartan Lough (6 miles), by leaving 
the Lough Beagh road on the left after crossing the Largy. 
On the east side of Gartan Lough is Belville demesne, lying 
between the lake and Church Hill, and on the west side of 
Lough Ackibban is the burying-place of the O'Donnells. 
Eeturning to our route westwards, the road traverses a wild 
and hilly country, affording views of Muckish Mountain 
in front, and Carrotrasna (1183 feet) on the left. About 
eight miles from Kilmacrenan we strike the Owencarrow 
river, just where it leaves Lough Beagh. The shores of 
this lake are worthy of exploration, and are well seen if 
the cross road to Doochary Bridge be taken. From Glen- 



EXNISKILLEN TO DONEGAL. 411 

Leagh tlie main road ascends and skirts tlie right bank of 
the Calabber river, and soon brings the tourist into the 
very heart of the highlands of Donegal. On his right is 
Muckish, and behind him, in the distance, Glen Lough ; 
to his front the high peak of Errigal, and close to the left 
Mount Dooish, with Slieve Snaght in the distance. After 
crossing the watershed of the Owenbeg, we descend by the 
banks of the Owenee and round the base of Errigal, charmed 
with the view that meets us of Loughs Dunlewy and 
Nacung stretched out below. Shortly we reach Dunlewy 
Church (18 miles from Kilmacrenan) at the head of the 
lake, and have a view of the demesne of Mr. Brady, beau- 
tifully situate on the other side of the Devlin. A drive of 
other five miles along the north side of Lough ISi acung will 
take us to our destination, Gweedore Hotel (p. 408), after 
traversing one of the finest routes in Ireland, 

Southern Approaches. 

As the Coimty of Donegal has been described above, in 
the order necessary for those entering it from the north, 
we shall now briefly notice the two main approaches from 
the South, asking the reader to reverse ouj description of 
the road after page 405. 

1. ENNISKILLEN AXD BALLYSHANNON TO 
DONEGAL. 

[First route — From Enniskillen* to Pettigoe by railway; thence to 
Donegal by hired car. Second route — From Ballyshannon to Donegal by 
public car. From Donegal to Killybegs by public car.] 

From Enniskillen to Donegal the route lies along the 
east side of the lower Lough Erne. Passing through a 
country agreeably diversified with gentlemen's seats, we 

* From Enniskillen, Donegal may also be reached by taking the steamei 
down Lough Erne (see p. 315) to Belleek ; thence by rail to Ballyshannon 
(page 316), and on by car to Donegal 



412 HIGHLANDS OF DONEaAL. 

skirt Lowtlierstown, traversing a pleasant country, and 
passing the village of Kesh, where the landscape becomes 
more hilly, we arrive at the picturesque town of Pettigoe. 
To the north of it are Crockiaaghoe (1189 feet) and Knock- 
darin (752 feet). 

Beyond these, completely encircled with mountains, is 
Lough Derg, a wild romantic sheet of water, covering an 
area of upwards of 2100 acres. From Station Island it is 
said that entrance is obtained to St. Patrick's Purgatory, 
and certain it is that to this day many humble penitents 
visit it during the summer months. It is but justice to 
the Koman Catholic clergy to state that they generally con- 
demn the practice. The ruins of a religious house still 
exist on Saint's Island, and have lately been repaired. 

" The tradition was, that St. Patrick had prevailed on God to place the 
entrance to purgatory in Ireland, that the unbelievers might the more 
readily be convinced of the immortality of the soul and of the sufferings 
that awaited the wicked after death." A few monks, according to Boate, 
an old Irish writer, dwelt near the cavern that represented the entrance. 
" Whoever came to the island with the intention of descending into the 
cavern and examining its wonders, had to prepare himself by long vigils, 
fasts, and prayers, to strengthen him, as we are told, for his dangerous ex- 
pedition, but in reality, by reducing his bodily strength, to make his ima- 
gination more ready to receive the impressions which it was thought 
desirable to leave upon his mind. He was then let down into the cavern, 
whence, after an interval of several hours, he was drawn up again half 
dead, and when he recovered his senses, mingling the wild dreams of his 
own imagination with what the monks told him, he seldom failed to tell 
the most marvellous tales of the place for the remainder of his life. It was 
not till the reign of James II. that the monks were driven away from the 
place, and the mystery of the dark cavern dissolved." 

Though several sheets of water are passed on the way 
from Pettigoe to Donegal, the country is by no means 
inviting, being for the most part through flat barren 
moors. 

From Ballyshannon to Donegal is only thirteen and a 
half miles, and the route lies through a delightful country, 
well cultivated and fertile. A few miles to the left, on a 
jutting crag overlooking Donegal Bay, is Kilbarron, the 



BARNESMORE GAP. 413 

ruined castle of tlie O'Clerys, once powerful chiefs in Done- 
gal, and wliere the celebrated " Annals of the Four Masters" 
were composed. After an agreeable drive we arrive at 
Donegal (page 414). 

2. STEANOELAR TO DONEGAL. 

Leaving Stranorlar {Inn : Queen's), a small town of no 
note, but situated in an improved district, we have on the 
north Tyrcallin, a seat of the Marquis of Conyngham, and 
to the west the demesne of Dumboe Castle, the estate of 
Sir Edmund Hayes, Bart. The country now becomes 
more mountainous and interesting. On the right rises 
L:on Hill (902 feet), while behind it are White Horse 
(997 feet) and Altnapaste (1199 feet) On the left is 
Lough Mourne, which feeds the Mournebeg river. 

Barnesmore Gap is then entered. This is a deep wold 
glen, about four miles long, walled in by hills attaining an 
elevation in some places of 1700 feet. On the whole, per- 
haps, it is one of the most magnificent defiles in Ireland ; 
less gracefully picturesque than that of Kylemore in Conne- 
mara, and less terrific in its shapeless forms than that of 
Dunloe at Killamey ; but more sublime than either. All 
along the course of about three miles in length, from its 
commencement to its termination, rushes a remarkably 
rapid river, foaming over enormous masses of rock, which 
every now and then divert its passage, forcing it into a 
channel that, after taking a circuitous route, again pro- 
gresses onwards by the side of the traveller. On the 
right are the ruins of a small fortified house or castle 
which formerly commanded the pass, and in which it is 
supposed the Huguenot historian Rapin lived for some 
time. Emerging from the pass we have a view of the 
picturesque Lough Eske, situated in a rich and beautiful 
valley. The road then gradually descends until we reach 
the town of 



414 
DONEGAL, 

[Inn; Arran Arms.] 

^Licli becomes a conspicuous object in tbe landscape long 
before we reach, it. It is situated on the river Eske, at 
the north-eastern extremity of the bay, to which it gives a 
name. It is a market town, and has places of worship for 
various religious bodies. The fine old castle of Donegal, 
once the seat of the O'Donnells, chiefs of Tyrconnell, will 
be examined with interest. Here stood also a monastery, 
in which, or in the castle of Kilbarron, the celebrated 
" Annals of the Four Masters " were written. These valu- 
able historical records are sometimes called the annals of 
Donegal. The road from Donegal to Killybegs (17 miles) 
lies along the north side of Donegal Bay, which is broken 
into innumerable baylets. Passing Mount Charles, it 
rounds the head of Inver Bay at the hamlet of the same 
name, and then rounding the eastern arm of M^Swine's 
Bay, enters Killyhegs {Inns: Eoger's and Coane's). See 
page 409. 



INDEX 



Abbeyleix, 114 
Achill, 300 
Adare, 259 
Addison's "Walk, 54 
Administration of Ireland, 6 
Aghaboe Abbey, 114 

House, 114 
Agliadoe Ruins, ISl 
Aghanure Castle, 276 
Agriculture of Ireland, 4 
Aherlow, 118 
Allen Hill, 110, 132 
Animals in Ireland, 5 
Annamoe, 83 
Antrim, 369 
Ardglass, 349 
Arbutus Island, 188 

Plant, 189 
Ardara, 419 
Ardmore, 173 
Ardfert, 224 
Arklow, 101 
Armagh, 340 

Cathedral, 349 

County, 348 
Arran Isles, 239, 270 
Ashford, 81 
Askeaton, 228 
Athassel, 143 
Athenry, 216 
Athlone, 252 
Athy, 133 
Atlantic hotel, 237 
Auburn, 222, 253, 260 
Aughrim, 99 



Avoca Vale, 92 
Avonbeg River, 92 
Avondale, 94 
Avonmore River, 91 

Balbriggan, 319 
Baldangan Church, 31d 
Baldoyle, 59 
Ballina, 304 
Ballinafad, 308 
Ballinasloe, 223 
Ballinderry Lough, 215 
Ballinrobe, 290 
Ballintober Abbey, 298 
Ballycastle, 388 
Ballyfermot, 108 
Ballyfin, 113 
Ballygarth Castle, 820 
Ballyglass, 298 
Bally kis teen House, 117 
Ballymena, 373 
Ballynahinch, 349 
Ballysadare, 305 
Ballyshannon, 316, 411 
Ballyvaghan, 238 
Banagher, 249 
Bandon, 205 
Bangor, Down, 349 
Bank of Ireland, 14 
Bannow, 105 
Bantry, 206 
Bards, Irish, 209 
Bamesmore Gap, 413 
Barony of Forth, 104 
Ban-ack Bridge, Dublin, 4i 



416 



INDEX. 



Basaltic Rock at Giant's Causeway, 

385 
Bective Abbey, 221 
Belfast, 323 

Commercial Buildings, 326 

Custom House, 329 

Flax Mills, 330 

Linen HaU, 334 

Lough, 365 
Bellarena, 400 
Bellingham Castle, 321 
Belmore, Lord, demesne, 314 
Benbulben Head, 308 
Bennett's Bridge, 125 
Bettystown, 320 

Bianconi's Cars, 144 '• 

Binabola, 279 " ' , 

Birmingham Family, 21^ 
Black Valley, 185 : 

Blackrock, Cork, 163 
Blackrock, Dublin, 71 
Blackwater, 173 ' 
Blanchardstown, 212 5 

Blarney, 122 

Castle, 169 

Lake, 171 

Stone, 169 
Blessington, 78 
Blessington, Lord, 396 
Bloody Bridge, Dublin, 44 
Blue Coat School, Dublin, 41 
Book of Lisriore, 176 
Borris-in-Ossory, 114 
Borrisoleigh, 115 
Botanic Garden, Dublin, 51 
Boyd, H., of BaUy castle, 388 
Boyle, 308 

Abbey, 309 
Boyne Battle, 67 

River, 67 
Brandon's Cottage, Killamey, 188 
Bray, 73 

Bray Head, Valentia, 203 
Brian Boroimhe, 53 
Bnttas Castle, 116 
Bruce's landing at Dundalk, 342 
Buncrana, 401 
Bundoran, 316 
Bunrathy Castle, 241 
Burren of Clare, 237 
Borrislioole, 302 



Bushmills, 377 
Butler's Bridge, 318 
Buttevant, 120 
Abbey, 120 
Bury Family, 120 

Cahir, 127, 143 
Cahirciveen, 203 
Calpe, 320 
Canals in Ireland, (J 
Cappoquin, 175 
Carbury, 219 

Castle, 214 
Garden's, Sir J. C, seat, lU 
Carew, Lord, 118 
Carlingford, 341 
Carlow, 124, 145 

County, 145 
Cam, 393 
Camdonagh, 402 
Carolan, Irish Bard, 309 
Carrantuohill, 188 
Carrig-a-hooly Castle, 802 
Carrick-a-Rede Chasm, 38f 
Carrick-on-Suir, 145 
Carrickfergus, 366 
Carrig-o- Gunnel, 236 
Carrigrohan Castle, 160 
Carton, 109, 213 
Cashel, 117, 188 
Castlebaggot, 108 
Castlebar, 297 
Castle Bellingham, 321 
Castle Connell, 243 
Castle Coole, 314 
Castledermot, 123 
Castle Howard, 72 
Castle Kevin, 84 
Castle Mary, 167 
Castlenock, 212 
Oastlerock, 374 
Castle Saunderson, 313 
Castletown Bear, 208 
Castletownroche, 121 
Castle Upton, 368 
Cavan, 312 

Cave Hill, Belfast, 338 
Cecilstown, 120 
Celbridge, 109 
Cemetery, Dublin, 63 
Cliambers' Temple, 57 



INDEX. 



417 



Chapelizod, 108 
CbarleviUe, 77, 120 
Christ's Church Cathedral, 20 
Church Bay, 389 
Claddach, The, 267 
Clandeboy Bay, 347 

Castle, 346 
Clane, 110 
Clara Vale, 91 
Clare Abbey, 229, 241 

Castle, 241 
Clare, County, 237, 244 
Clare-Galway, Abbey, 293 
Clare Island, 288 
Clew Bay, 287 
Clifden, 280 
Cliffs of Moher, 237 
Climate of Ireland, 4 
Cloghereen, 180 
Cloncurry remains, 214 
Olondalkin, 49, 130. 
Clones, 313 

Clonmacnoise, 250, 253 
Clonmel, 127, 143 
Clontarf, 53 ; Cloyne, 167 
Colclough, Sir A., 105 
Coleraine, 374 

College of Physicians, Dublin, 34 
College of Surgeons, Dublin, 30 
Conciliation Hall, 45 
Confey Castle, 213 
Cong, 290 

Connell Abbey, 110 
Connemara, 273 
Connor Hill, 204 
Coote, Sir C, 113, 114 
Cork, 153 

Harbour, 165 

Lough, 161 
Cowley Family, 226 
Creeslough, 406 
Crom Castle, 313 
Cromwell, 144, 173, 329 
Cromwell's Fort, 203 
Cross of Cong, 291 
Crossdoney, 312 
Crosses, Irish, 336 
Croagh Patrick, 286, 287 
Curragh of Kildare, 111, 131 
Cushendun, 391 
Custom House, Dublin, 24 



Dalkey, 72 
Dangan Castle, 337 
D'Arcy, John, 280 
Dargan, William, 35 
Dargle, 75 

Dawson Family, 113 
Dawson's Court, 113 
De Courcy, Sir John, 58 
De Ginkle, 231 
De Lacy's Castle, 226 
De Veseys, 113 
Delphi, 295 
Dermot Family, 123 
Deny (Londonderry), 397 
Derry Castle, 247 
Derrycunihy Waterfall, 1S6 
Deserted Village, 229, 260 
Desmond, Countess, 175 
Devenish Island, 315 
Devil's Bit Mountains, 136, 247 
Devil's Glen, 81 
Devil's Punch Bowl, 201 
Devonshire, Duke of, 176 
Dhu Lough, 391 
Dingle, 204 
Doe Castle, 406 
Donadea Castle, 219 
Donaghadee, 351 
Donaghmore Church, Xavan, 337 
Donegal Highlands, 404 
Minerals, 401 

Town, 414 
Doneraile, 120 
Donlus Head, 204 
Donore Church, 332 
Doon Point, Rathlin, S90 
Doonass Falls, 245 
Down, County, 350 
Downhill House, 374 
Downpatrick, 352 
Dracolatria, 87 
Drishane Castle, 129 
Drogheda, 62 

Siege, 62 
Dromana Castle, 174 
Dromore, 305, 322 
Drumgoff, 91, 98 
Drumsna, 310 
Dublin, 10 

Bay, 72 

Castle, 18 



2E 



418 



INDEX. 



Duleek, 68 
Dunadry, 378 
Dundalk, 342 
Dundrum, 353 
Dunfanaghy, 407 
Dungannon, 322 
rvimhill, 400 
Dunlewy, 411 
Dunloe Castle, 182 

Cave, 182 

Gap, 183 
Dunluce Castle, 375 
Dunseverick Castle, 386 
Dansink, 212 
Dvryer, tlie outlaw, 90 

Eagle's Nest, 190 
Bdgeworth, Maria, 228 
Edgewortlistown, 222 
Education in Ireland, 7 
Ellis, Mr., of Letterfrack, 282 
Emly, 118 
Emo Park, 113 
Enfield, 219 
Ennis, 229, 241 
Eiiniscorthy, 103" 
Enniskerry, 74 
EnniskiUen, 314 
Ennistimon, 237 
Eoghan Beul, 289 
Erin, the name, 1 
Erne, Lord, demesne, 313 
Erse language, 7 

Fairliead, 390 

Fannet Head, 406 

Famham, 313 

Fermoy, 178 

Ferns, 102 

Fernslock, 214 

Fethard, 105, 127, 141 

Fire House, Cloyne, 168 

Fisheries of Ireland, 5 

Fitzgerald, Countess, 149 

Fitzgerald, Lord, 48 

Forth Barony, 104 

P'our Courts of Dublin, 25 

Foynes, 228 

French landing at Killala, 304 

Gaelic, 7 
GBlbaUy, 118 



Galway, 263 

Bay, 268 

County, 223 
Gap of Dunloe, 183 
Garbally Castle, 229 
Garry Castle, 249 
Gazaboe Hill, 129 
Geology of Ireland, 3 
Giant's Causeway, 378 

Amphitheatre, 384 

Causeways, 382 

Chimney Tops, 384 

Dunkerry Cave, 381 

Gateway, 383 

Hen and Chickens, 386 

Loom, 383 

Organ, 383 

Pleaskin, 385 

Portcoon Cave, 381 

Steucans, 382 
Giant's Cradle, Lame, 394 
Gilford, 320 
Glasnevin, 50 
Glen Aherlow, 127 
Glenarm, 392 
Glenavig, 322 
Glen Beagh, 410 
Glenbrook, 163 
Glen Columbkile, 239 
Glencree, 78 
Glendalough, 85 
Glen Fee, 295 
Glengariff, 208 
Glen of the Downs, 80 
Glena Bay, 194 
Glencuppal, 202 
Glin Castle, 228 
Glynn, 394 
Gobbins Cliffs, 394 
Goldsmith, Oliver, 229, 260 
Goold's Cross, 117 
Gores Bridge, 124 
Gorey, 102 
Gort, 242 

Goughane Barra, 210 
Grace O'MaUey, 288 
Gracehiil, 373 
Granard, 312 
Grand Canal, 50 
Grattan, statue, 29 
Gray Man's Path, 390 



INDEX. 



419 



Great Lough Allen, 255 

Greencastle, 366 

Grey Abbey, 354 

Grianan of Aileach, remains, 401 

Gueedore, 40S 

Guiness, B. L., 23, 291 

Hag's Castle, 290 

Head, 237 
Half-way House, 278 
Hawarden, Lord, 117 
Hawlbowllne, 164 
Hazelhatch, 109 
Hazlewood, Sligo, 307 
Headford, 129, 293 
Herbert, H. A., 180 
Hillsbro, 343 

Hibernian Academy, Dublin, 37 
Highlands of Donegal, 404 
Hill of Allen, 110, 132 
Hollymount, 298 
Holt, General, 79, 82, 100 
Holy Island, Lough Derg, 247 
Holy Cross Abbey, 116, 136 
Holyhead, 9 
Holywood, Down, 370 
Hore Abbey, 141 
Horn Head, 407 
Hospital, 118 
Howard Castle, 72 
Howth, 54 

Abbey, 57 

Castle, 56 

Hill, 58 

Industrial Museum, 31 
Inchicore House, 108 
Inis Cealtra, 247 
Inishowen Barony, 403 
Innisf alien Island, 196 
Ireland's eye, 55 
Ireton's despatch, 146 
Irish Channel, 9 
Isles of Arran, 270 

James II., 63 

Jamestown, 258 
Jerpoiut Abbey, 125, 150 
Joyce Family, 285 
Joyce's Country, 285 
Juliansto\vn, 320 



Kamaneigh, 210 

Kanturk, 129 

Kells, Kilkenny, 125, 161 

Meath, 69 

Monastery, 70 
Kenbane Castle, 378 

Head, 378 
Kenmare, 209 

Lord, 179 
Kenure Park, 319 
Kilbarry Chui'ches, 258 
Kilcock, 214 
Kilcolman, 120, 178 
KilcuUen, 111, 123 
Kildare, 111, 132 

County, 131 

Street'ciub, 34 
Kildare's Confession, 139 
Kilfinane, 119 
Kilkee, 226 

Cave, 227 
Kilkenny, 125, 147 

County, 146 
Killadoon, 109 
Killala, 304 
Killaloe, 245 
Killarney Excursions, 179 

Islands, 194 

Lakes, 186 

Routes to, 209 

Town, 178 
Killery, The, 284 
Killiney, 72 

Killmallock Abbey, 119 
Killybegs, 409 
Kilmacduagh, 242 
Kilmacrenan, 410 
Kilmainham Hospital, lOh 
Kilmorey, Lord, 344 
Kilroot Parish, 395 
Kilrush, Clare, 226 
Kingston, Lord, 119 
Kingstown, 71 
Kinsale, 205 
Kippure, 78 

Knights' Hospitallers, 118 
Knockahan Hill, 115 
Knocklong Hill, 118 
Kylemore Lake, 283 

Lackagh Castle, 112 



420 



INDEX. 



Lady Kenmare's Cottage, 194 
Lakes in Ireland, 3 

In Kerry, 229 
Lambay Island, 318, 327 
Lanesborough, 257 
Laragh, 84 
Lame, 393 
Laytown, 320 
Lea Castle, 113 
Lee Valley, 209 
Leenane, 284 
Lehincb, 237 
Leigblin, 124 
Leinster, Duke, 218 
Leitrim, Lord, demesne, 290 
Leixlip, 108, 213 
Letterbrechaun, 278 
Letterfrack, 282 
Letterkenny, 405 
Liflfey River, 12 
Limerick, 230 

Castle, 232 

Cathedral, 231 
Linen Hall, Dublin, 40 
Linen Trade, 357, 361 
Lisburn, 343 
Lisdoonvama, 237 
Lishoy, 228, 260 
Lismore, 176 
Lisougbter, 278 
Lombardstown, 129 
Londonderry, 397 

County, 396 
Londonderry, Siege, 398 

Trading Companies, 396 

Marquis, 374 
Lough Boderg, 258 

Bray, 78 

Conn, 304 

Corrib, 277 

Cullen, 304 

Dan, 79 

Derg, Clare, 246 

Derg, Donegal, 410 

Erne, 314 

Foyle, 400, 403 

Gill, 307 

Gouna, 312 

Guitane, 202 

Gur, 118 

Key, 309 



Kylemore, 283 

Leane, Killamey, 199 

Mask, 289 

Neagb, 369 

Waters of, 370 

Owel, 311 

of Cork, 161 

Ree, 255 

Strangford, 372 

Swilly, 401 

Tay, 79 
Loughmore Castle, 116 
Lover's Leap, 76 
Lowtherstown, 412 
Lucan, 212 

Church, 108 
Luggala Lodge, 79 
Lugnaquilla, 97 
Lurgan, 344 
Lusk, 319, 62 
Lynch Family, 264 
Lyons, 109 

Maam, 277 
Macarthys, 138 
Macarthy's Island, 188 
MacgiUicuddy's Reeks, 202 
MacMorres' Country, 82 
Macroom, 210 
M 'Swine's Gun, 407 
Malahide, 60 

Abbey, 61 

Castle, 60 
Malin Head, 402 
MaUow, 121, 129 
Mangerton, 201 
Manufactures of Ireland, 5 
Markree Demesne, 308 
Martin family, 279 
Marino, 53 

Maryborough, 113, 134 
Mask Castle, 289 
Massareene Castle, 369 . 
Maynooth, 213, 217 

College, 224 
Mayo County, 285 
Meath, 220 

Meeting of the Waters, 92 
Millifont Abbey, 66 
Middle Lake, Killamey, 192 
Milford, 406 



INDEX. 



421 



Millstreet, 129 
Miltown Malbay, 237 
Mitchellstown, 119 

Caves, 119, 142 
Moher Cliffs, 237 
Monasterboice, 65 
Monastereven, 112 
Monksto\vii, 163 
Moore Abbey, 112 
Moore's, Tom, birthplace, 30 
Momington, 320 
Mount Errigal, 411 

Lugnaquilla, 97 

Melleray, 175 
Abbey, 175 

Mellick, 112 
Mountains of Donegal, 407 

Dublin, 106 

Ireland, 2 

Kerry, 229 

Wicklow, 106 
Mountjoy Forest, 396 
Mountrath, 114 
Moume Mountains, 359 

oville, 403 
Moycullen, 275 
Moyne Abbey, 305 
Muekish Mountain, 407 
Muckross, 180, 199 
Muckross Lake, 192 
Mullingar, 215, 222 
Multifarnham, 222, 312 
Munroe, General, 377 
Musgrave, Sir R., 175 

Naas, 110, 131 

Narrow Water Castle, 347 

National Gallery, Dublin, 35 

Nayan, 68 

Neale, The, 290 

Nelson's Monument, Dublin, 23 

Newcastle, 356 

New Grange, 6Q 

New Ross, 105 

Newbridge, 111 

Newgate, Dublin, 39 

Newmarket on Fergus, 241 

Newport, 300 

Newrath, 96 

Newry, 344 

Newtown Ards, 364 



Newtown Butler, 313 
Newtown Limavady, 400 
Newtown Mount Kennedy, 96 
Newtown Stewart, 396 

O'Brien's Bridge, 244 

O'Bymes, 77 

O' Conn ell, Dan., 45 

birthplace, 35 

grave, 53 
O'Conor, Roderick (last Irish kingx 

291 
O'Donoghue of the Lakes, 194 
O'Flaherty family, 276 
O'Mahony, 205 
O'Malley, Grace, 288 
O'Neills of Ulster, 371 
O' Sullivan's Cascade, 196 
O'Tooles, 77 

window, 83 
Old Connell Abbey, 110 
Old Weir Bridge, 192 
Olderfleet Castle, 394 
Oraagh, 396 
Oranmore, 242 
Ossian, 391 
Oughterard, Galway, 276 

Kildare, 109 
Ovoca, 92 

Palmerstown, 110 
Pass of Kamaneigh, 210 
Passage, Queenstown, 163 
Passage from Holyhead, 9 
Patrick's Bridge, Cork, 156 
Pettigoe, 412 
Phoenix Park, 25 
Pigeon Holes, 292 
Pleaskin, Giant's Causeway, 385 
Population of Ireland, 7 
Portadown, 346 
Portarlington, 113 
Portlaw, 128 
Porirush, 375 
Port Stewart, 374 
Portumna Castle, 248 
Powerscourt, 76 
WaterfaU, 77 
Post Office, Dublin, 23 
Poyntzpass, 321 
Priest's Hole, White Rocks, 37 



422 



INDEX. 



Purcell familj^ 115 
Purple Mountain, 1S8 
Puncheston, 110 

Quaker Towns, 127 

Queen's College, Belfast, 336 
Cork, 159 
Galway, 265 

Queen's County, 134 

Queen's Inns, Dublin, 39 

Queenstown, 164 

Rabbit Island, Killamey, 194 

Raheny, 54 

Railways in Ireland, 6 

Raleigh, Sir W., house, 173 

Rams Island, 372 

Randalstown, 373 

Randown Castle, 255 

Rapin the historian, 413 

Rathdmm, 92 

Rathleague, 113 

Rathlin Island, 3S9 

Rathmullen, 405 

Recess Hotel, Connemara, 278 

Red Branch, 372 

Reeks, MacGillicuddy, 202 

Religion in Ireland, 7 

Revenue of Ireland, 6 

Rivers in Ireland, 2 

Roads in Kerry and Connaught, 286 

Roch family, 121 

Roches Point, 166 

Rock of Cashel, 117, 138 

Rock of Dunamase, 134 

Rocking Stone, 79 

Rockingham (Lord Lorton), 310 

Rocky Island, 164 

Rossanna, 81 

Roscommon, 256 

Castle, 257 

County, 223 
Roscrea, 114, 135 
Rose, Lady, 105 
Roserk Abbey, 305 
Roskey Bridge, 310 
Ross Castle, Killarney, 198 

Island, 197 
Rosshill, 290 
Rosstrevor, 346 
Rostellan Castle, 166 
Rotunda, Dublin, 39 



Roundstone, 294 
Roundwood, 80 
Royal Canal, 58 

Hospital, Dublin, 43 

Society, Dublin, 32 
Rush, 319 

Sallins, 110 

SaUy Gap, 78 

SalthiU, Galway, 268 

Saunderson Castle, 313 

Scattery Island, 225 

Schomberg, 63 

Scott, Sir Walter, 90 

Seven Churches of Kilbarry, 258 

Wicklow, 85 
Shandon Church, Cork, 157 
Shanes Castle, 371 
Shannon, Lower, 211 

River, 234, 254 
Shelton Abbey, 101 
Shinnagh, 129 
Skellings, 203 
Skerry Islands, 320 
Slane, 67 

Castle, 67 
Slemish Hill, 373 
Slieve Donard, 359 

League Cliffs, 409 

na muck, 126 

Snaght, 408 
SHgo, 306 

Abbey, 306 

Marquis, demense, 2S9 
Spenser the poet, 120, 178 
Spike Island, 164 
Srewell Wells, 371 
St. Ailbe, 118 

St. Andrew's Chapel, Dublin, 47 
St. Boyne's Cross, 65 
St. Cannice's Cathedral, Kilkenny 

148 
St. Columbkille, 340 
St. Cronan's shrine, 115 
St. Doolagh's Church, 318 
St. Erc's Hermitage, 67 
St. Fintan's Church, 59 
St. Fionn Bar's Cathedral, Cork, 

158 
St. Francis Xavier Chapel, Dublin, 
50 



INDEX. 



423 



St. John's Church, Kilkenny, 129 
St. Kevin's Bed, 89 

Kitchen, 87 
St. Leger Family, 120 
St. Michan's Church, Dublin, 47 
St. Molach, 119 
St. Molaise, 315 

St. Nicholas' Chapel, Dublin, 48 
St. Patrick, 118, 334 
St. Patrick's Cathedral, 22 

Purgatory, 412 
St. Senanus, 212 
St. Stephen's Green, 30 
St. Vincent's Hospital, 31 
St. Yarlath, 299 
Stag Hunt at Killarney, 194 
Station Island, 412 
Steven's Hospital, Dublin, 43 
Stella, 54, 227 
Sterne's birthplace, 128 
Straflfan, 109 
Strancally Castle, 174 
Strangford Lough, 355 
Stranorlar, 413 
Sugar Loaf, 80 
Sutton, 59 

Swift, Dean, 205, 227 
Swords, 61 

Talbot family, 60 
Tanderagee Castle, 322 
Tara, 68 

Harp, 69 
Tarbert, 224 
Taylor, Jeremy, 851 
Templars, Knights, 115, 118 
Temple Michael, 173 
Templemore, 115, 135 
Templepatrick, 368 
The KiUery, 284 

Pass, 129 

Priory, Templemore, 135 
Thomastown, 125 
Thomond Bridge, Limerick, 232 

Family, 166, 241 
Thurles, 116, 136 
Tighe, Mrs., 81 
Tinnehinch House, 77 
Tintem Abbey, 105 
Tipperary, 126, 142 

County, 135 



Togha, 80 

ToUymore Park, 372 

Tore Cascade, Killarney, 200 

Lake, 192 

Mountain, 201 
Torry Island, 407 
Tralee, 224 
Triangle, 289 
Trim, 214, 220 
Trinity College, Dublin, 16 
Tuam, 299 
Turlough, 304 
Twelve Pins, 279 
Tyrone County, 395 

House, 242 



Upper Lake, Killarney, 188 
Upton Castle, 368 



Vale of Ovoca, 92 
Valentia, 203 
Vartrey River, 81 
Viceregal Chapel, 18 

Warrenpoint, 346 
Waterford, 152 

County, 151 
"Weavers' Hall, Dublin, 49 
"Wellington, birthplace, 35 

Eesidence at Dangan, 338 

Testimonial, Dublin, 26 
"West Meath, 222 
Westport, 286 
Wexford, 103 
White Abbey, 366 
White Rocks, Dunluce, 375 
Whitehouse, 366 
Wicklow, 97 

Mountains and Lakes, 106 
William of Orange, 63 
Williamstown, 247 
Wolfe, Rev. C, 166 
Wooden Bridge, 95 

Yew Tree, largest in Ireland, 31S 
Youghal, 172 

Zoological Gardens, Dublin, 26 



»^-^:^^i^^-SiSiSi-* 




LASGOW AND THE HIGHLANDS. 

(Rcyyal Route via Crinan and Caledonian Canals.) 
THE ROYAL MAIL STEAMERS— 



GONDOLIER, STAFFA, 
GLENGARRY, LINNET, 
CYGNET, PLOVER, 

INVERARAY CASTLE, 



ONA, CHEVALIER, 

EOUNTAINEER, PIONEER, 
LANSMAN, CLYDESDALE, 

SLAY, GLENCOE, 

LOCHAWE, AND QUEEN OF THE LAKE, 

during the season for Port Ellen, Port Askaig, Islay, Oban, Fort- 
liam, Inverness, Staffa, lona, Glencoe, Loch Awe, Tobennory, Portree, 
:ioch, Ullapool, Lochinver, and Stornoway ; affording Tourists an 
ortunity of Visiting the Magnificent Scenery of Loch Awe, Glencoe, 
Coolin Hills, Loch Coiniisk, Loch Maree, and the famed Islands of 
fa and lona. 
* These vessels afford in their passage a view of the beautiful scenery of the Clyde, 

all its Watering-Places — the Island and Kyles of Bute — Island of Arran — Moun- 
5 of Cowal, Knapdale, and Kintyre — Lochfyne— Crinan — with the Islands of Jura, 
ba, Mull, and many others of the Western Sea — The Whirlpool of Corryvreckan — 
^lountains of Lorn, of Morven, of Appin, of Kingairloch, and Ben Nevis — Inver- 
"i — The Lands of Lochiel, the scene of the wanderings of Prince Charles, and near 
here the clans raised his Standard in the '45 — Lochaber — the Caledonian Canal— 
I Locl^y — Loch Oich — Loch Ness, with the Glens and Mountains on either side, and 
celebrated FALLS OF FOYERS. Books descriptive of the route may be had on 
d the Steamers. 

irae-Bill, with Map, sent post free on application to the Proprietors, David 
:heson and Co., 119 Hope Street, Glasgow. 



jLasgow, 1877. 



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! bs S g-A Cascade witli Rockery, whose delicious FountJ, 
1 1 "2..^ play on a profusion of Luxuriant Ferns, 

US- g^ beautifies and refreshes the Hall. 

t " ' Spacious Billiard Room for Residents in the He 

In which a magnificent Grotto, with luaterfcdls, cools and 
purifies the air. 



ABERDEEN. 




-'^^tllfS?' 



ABERDEEN. 

THE PALACE HOTEL, 

UNION STREET AND BRIDGE STREET, ABERDEEN. 

TIHIS Hotel, which has been recently erected and furnished 
with all modern improvements, is one of the finest in 
he City. 

It is situated in the principal street, with convenient 
ccess to the Eailway Station and chief Business localities. 

Public and Private Drawing-Eooms are furnished with 
pecial reference to the comfort of Lady and Gentlemen Visitors. 

! Handsome Commercial Eoom, Stock Eooms, Billiard Eoom ; 

3ed-Eoom Accommodation for upwards of one hundred ; Hot, 

^old, and Shower Baths. 

A. M. MACKIE, 

Late of the *' Northern Hotel^' Lessee, 



4: ABERFELDY ABERFOYLE ABERGELE. 

ABERFELDY. 
BREADALBANE ARMS HOTEL, 

(One minute's walk from the Railway Station) 

Containing First-class accommodation, is beautifully situated on t] 
river Tay, in the County of Perth, close to the splendid Falls of Mone, 
(Birks of Aberfeldy), Taymouth Castle, and the unrivalled scenery of Gh 
Lyon. 

Parties leaving Edinburgh and Glasgow in the morning, and arriving ; 

Aberfeldy by the first train, can enjoy a five hours' drive through the fine 

scenery in the Highlands (including Pass of Glen Lyon, Taymouth Cast 

and grounds from the ** Fort "), and return south by the last train. 

Orders for Horses and Conveyances punctually attended to. 

The Hotel 'Bus awaits the arrival of all the Trains. 



ABEKFOYLE. 
BAILIE NICOL JARVIE HOTEL 

Tourists and Visitors will find first-class accommodation at the above 
By writing the day before, parties can secure Boats for fishing o: 
Loch Ard or Loch Chon, and Conveyances to meet them at Bucklyvi 
Station, on the Forth and Clyde Eailway. 

JAMES BLAIR, Proprietor, 

ABERGELE, NORTH WALES. 
THE CAMBRIAN HOTEL, 

PENSARN, Abergele. 



R. HUMPHREYS, Proprietor. 

Close to the Station and within two minutes' walk of the Beach, for Boardinir o 
Private Apartments, Posting, etc. Wines and Spirits of the best quality 

r,.ir ^Fr?'?.?'^ ?'"if ^ ^^""^ ^^^^ ^^^^^y ^^^^ ^^^e^ *o the Hotel, with a first-class neT 
Billiard Table, by the eminent makers Burroughes and Watts 



AMBLESIDE BALLACHULISH. 5 

AMBLESIDE, WINDEEMERE. 

THE SALUTATION HOTEL. 

iCnis fine old house, which has been established upwards of two centuries, has 
recently been considerably enlarged, re-modelled, and re-furnished. It con- 
tains Suites of Rooms for Families, also Dining, Drawing, Billiard, Smoking, 
md Bath (Hot, Cold, and Shower) Rooms. The views are unrivalled, and the 
amed Stock Ghyll Force is in the grounds of the "Salutation." 

Post Horses, and Close and Open Carriages in great variety. District 
Uoaches daily. Table d'hote ; Breakfast at 9 a.m., Dinner at 7 p.m. 
i Postal Telegraph Station. 

MICHAEL TAYLOR, Proprietor. 



BALLACHULISH HOTEL 

AND COACHING ESTABLISHMENT, 

AT THE ENTRANCE TO GLENCOE, 

ARGYLESHIRE. 



JOHN CUREIE, of the Tontine Hotel, Greenock, takes this 
opportunity of returning his sincere thanks to the Nobility, 
Gentry, and Public in general for the large amount of patronage 
he has so long enjoyed while at the Tontine, and begs to inti- 
mate that he has taken a Lease of the Ballachulish Hotel,; Glencoe, 
which for its magnificent scenery is not surpassed in any other 
part of the Highlands. 

J. C. trusts from his long experience in conducting such 
establishments to merit a share of general support. 



t> BANAVIE BELFAST. 

BAKAVIE, 

BANAVIE HOTEL. 

rpHE extensive additions and alterations on this Hotel are now cor 
pleted, and it will be found one of the most attractive places for pleasur 
seekers in the Highlands. Several excursions can be made either by driviii 
or on foot,— such as to the Falls of Glen Nevis, 12 miles ; Glenfinnan, 1 
miles ; Glen Spean, 9 miles ; the Parallel Roads of Glen Eoy, 17 miles 
Loch Arkaig, 12 miles ; the foot of Glencoe, Ballachulish, 16 miles ; ol 
Inverlochy Castle, 2 miles ; Tor Castle, where tradition says Banquo livec 
2 miles. Guides and ponies are kept to ascend Ben Nevis : the Hotel 
immediately in front, and the nearest place to start from. 

Salmon and trout-fishing can also be had by parties staying at tb 
Hotel on lake and river, the Lochy being the best salmon water in Scol 
land. Special terms made with parties staying by the week or month. 

Route :— London to Glasgow, and thence by steamer "lona," or h 
rail to Kingussie and coach here. 

JOHN MCGREGOR, Proprietor. 

BELFAST. 

THE IMPERIAL HOTEL. 

EIEST CLASS. BEST SITUATION. 

Omnibuses meet all Trains and Steamers, 

W. J. JUEY, Proprietor. 

BELFAST. 
ROBINSON^S COMMERCIAL TEMPERANCE HOTEL, 

82 DONE GALL STREET. 

ESTABLISHED 1851. 

A FIRST-CLASS Family and Commercial Hotel. Conducted on 

strictly Abstinence Principles. Comfort, Quiet, and moderate 

Charges. 

Private Sitting Rooms and Show Rooms. 



BEDDGELERT BIDEFORD. 



BEDDGELERT. 




THE ROYAL & GOAT 



HOTEL. 



rPHIS Establishment is beautifully situated in the midst of some of the finest 
-*- scenery in Wales, and is within a mile and a half of the Aberglaslyn 
Pass. It is in the hands of a new Proprietor, Mr. Richard Humphrey, late 
of the Padarn Villa Hotel, Llanberis ; has undergone a most complete repair ; 
is newly and handsomely refurnished ; and the intention is that a reputation 
for attention, comfort, and moderate charges shall be permanently earned. 
Coaches will run during the season between Portmadoc, the Hotel, and 
Llanberis. 

It has an excellent Coffee Room, Billiard Room. Smoke Room, &c. 
Fishiag on the Lakes Gwynact, Dinas, and Cader. 

BIDEFORD, DEVONSHIRE. 
TANTON^S 

FIRST-CLASS FAMILY AND COMMERCIAL HOTEL AND POSTING HOUSE. 

This Hotel is pleasantly situated, facing the river Torridge, noted for its Salmon, Trout, 
and other fishing. 

An Omnibus meets every train ; private Omnibuses and Carriages can be had at the 
shortest notice. Skating Rink adjoining the Hotel. 

BILLIARDS. 

N.B. — The Mail-Coach starts from this Hotel daily at 7.15 a.m., taking passengers, 
parcels, etc., for Clovelly, Hartland, and its neighbourhood. 



BLAIR ATHOLE. 

BLAIR ATHOLE. 



ATHOLE ARMS HOTEL. 

Adjoining the Railway Station. No Omnibus necessary, 
n^HE recently completed additions render this Hotel one of the largest ai( 
-^ best- appointed in the Highlands. | 

Very elegantly furnished Drawing -Room for Ladies, and considerabj 
enlarged Sitting-room, Bedroom, Smoking, and Bath-room accommodation. » 

Table d'Hote daily during the season in the magnificent Dining Saloon.' 

Board by the week at a reduced rate except during August. 

Blair Athole is much the nearest and most central point from which to vis 
Killiecrankie, the Queen's View, Loch Tummel, Rannoch, Glen Tilt, Braema. 
the Falls of Bruar, Garry, Tummel, and Fender ; the grounds of Blair Castl 
&c. ; and it is the most convenient resting-place for breaking the long railw; 
journey to and from the North of Scotland. 

The Posting Department is thoroughly well equipped. 

Experienced Guides and Ponies for Glen Tilt, Braemar, and Mounta 
excursions. 

D. & P. T. MACDONALD, Proprietors. 

1877. 



BLAIR-ATHOLE. 

BRIDGE OF TILT HOTEL] 

Within Five Minutes^ Walk from the Raihvay Station, 
ALEXANDER STEWART, Proprietor. 

npHIS HOTEL, under new Management, is beautifully situate 
-^ opposite the entrance of famous Glen Tilt, Blair Casti^ 
Grounds, and within walking distance of the Falls of Fendei, i 
The Salmon Leap, and other objects of interest. 

Visitors and Tourists honouring this Hotel will find every atten 
tion paid to their comfort and convenience, combined with Moderate 
Charges. 

POSTING IN ALL ITS DEPARTMENTS. 

The Drives include Glen Tilt, the Pass of Killiecrankie, Queen' 

View, Loch Tummel, Falls of Tummel, Falls of Bruar, &c. &c. 

Letters and Telegrams for Apartments or Conveyances punctually 

attended to, V 

An Omnibus to and from the Station free of Charge. S 

Parties boarded by the week at a reduced rate except during August 



BLAIRGOWRIE BRAEMAR BRIDGE OF ALLAN. 9 

BLAIRGOWRIE. 
QUEEN'S ^^^^ H OT EL. 

Established ^^™°*^*^^^*"5J^™»^ Haifa Century. 
VELE above long-established and first-class Hotel has recently been much enlarged 
and improved, so that Families, Tourists, and Commercial Gentlemen will find in 
every comfort and attention. Blairgowrie is on the shortest and most direct route to 
raeraar and Balmoral, the drive to which is very grand, passing Craighall (Col. Clerk- 
"attray), one of the most picturesquely-situated mansions in Scotland. Post Horses 
id Carriages of every description, with careful Drivers. 

Charges strictly Moderate. 
Coaches to Braemar early in July. Passengers booked at the Hotel. 
An Omnibus waits all Trains. D. M'DONALD, Proprietor, 

Orders by Post or Teiegram for Rooms, Carriages, or Coach seats, carefully attended to. 

BLAIEGOWEIE. 



71AMILIES, Tourists, and Commercial Gentlemen will find every endeavour being 
^ made to render this Hotel equal to its long-known reputation. 

Salmon Fishing on the Tay by the Day or Longer. 

A\ Stud of Horses and Vehicles. 

Coach to Braemar early in July. 

Seats secured by post or telegram. 'Bus meets all trains. 

JOHN ANDERSON, PropHetor. 

. BRAEMAR. 

THE INVERCAULD ARMS HOTEL. 

The Finest Hotel Situation in Scotland. 
!tR. M'GREGOR begs to announce that the extensive additions to this Hotel are 
'-L completed, comprising Magnificent Dining Saloon, Ladies' Drawing Room, Bil- 
ard Hall, Smoking Room, and over Thirty Bedrooms, all furnished in the most modern 
,yle. Beautiful Croquet and Pleasure Grounds. Posting in all its branches. Guides 
id Ponies to the difi"erent hills. Coaches during the season to Blairgowrie, Dunkeld, 
iid Ballater. Letters and Telegrams punctually attended to. 

N.B. — Besides the excellent Salmon and Trout Fishing belonging to the Establish- 
lent, the Proprietor has concluded arrangements in terms of which Visitors staying at 
le Hotel will be allowed to fish on the Invercauld private Water, reckoned the best 
I Scotland for Salmon. 

BEIDGE OF ALLAN. 

THE 

ROYAL -^^^ HOTEL. 

rHIS well-known First-Class Hotel has extensive and superior accommodation for 
Tourists and Families, with a large Drawing Room and Dining Room for Ladies 
ad Gentlemen, and beautifully laid out Pleasure Grounds. Charges strictly moderate. 
; is situated in the centre of this famous Spa, and is within easy access to Callander, 
le Trossachs, Loch Lomond, and most of the finest scenery in Scotland. Posting 
stablishment complete. A 'Bus belonging to the Hotel awaits all the Trains. 

ROBERT PHILP, Proprietor. 



10 



BRAEMAR. 




THE FIFE ARMS HOTEll 

BRAEMAR, BY BALMORAL. 

lyrE. M'NAB begs respectfully to inform the Nobilit; 
■^^-^ Gentry, and Tourists, that the extensive additions to th 
Hotel are now completed. The Hotel, as now constructec 
comprises over 100 Bedrooms, a Dining Saloon (one of th 
largest and most elegant in Scotland), elegant Private Sitting 
Rooms, Ladies' Drawing -Room, Billiard -Room, and BatI 
Rooms. 

Charges strictly moderate. Letters or Telegrams wil 
receive the most careful attention. Posting in all its varie< 
departments. Coaches during the Season to Ballater ant 
Blairgowrie Stations. 

Parties Boarded by the Week or Month. 

Note. — Gentlemen staying at the Hotel can ham excellent Salmo 

07' Trout Fishing free of all charge. 



BRIDGE OF ALLAN BRIGHTON. 11 

THE 

BRIDGE OF ALLAN 

HYDROPATHIC ESTABLISHMENT, 

OCHIL PARK, STIRLINGSHIRE, 
Medical Adviser — Dr. Hunter, 

nOMBINES Salubrity of Climate, Dry Soil, and Exquisite 
I Scenery. The House is well appointed, and provides a 
[ood Table with cheerful society. 

Terms, including all charges, £2 : 12 : 6 per week. 

Applications regarding accommodation, &c., to be addressed 
Mr. M*Kay, House Superintendent. 

BRIDGE OF ALLAN. 

QUEEN'S HOTEL. 

T^HIS First-class Hotel affords excellent accommodation for 
-■- Families, Tourists, and Visitors. 

THE HOTEL OMNIBUS AWAITS ALL TRAINS. 

A. ANDERSON, Proprietor. 

BEIGHTON GRAND AQUAEIITM. 

THE largest and most complete Marine and Fresh Water Aquarium in the world. 
•- The Collection of Fishes and other aquatic Animals in this magnificent Establish- 
lent is unequalled for variety and the number and size of the specimens exhibited. 

Sea Lions, monster Porpoises, Royal Sturgeons, baby Sturgeons, Telescope Fish, Sea 
lorses, Herring, Mackerel, Sterlet, Mud Fish (Gambia), Electric Eels (Amazon), Family 
f Alligators (Mississippi), Sea ButIs (Northern Divers), and thousands of other rare 
jpecimens. 

The Aquarium Band at intervals daily, and every evening at 7.30. Vocal and Instru- 
lental Concerts, Wednesday and Saturday afternoons at 3. 

Admission : — Daily, Is. ; Evening 6d. Seliools Half-Price. 
Periodical Tickets.— One Month, 7s. 6d. ; Three Months, 10s. 6d. 

G. REEVES SMITH, General Maiuiger.' 



12 BRIGHTON BRISTOL CALLANDER CARLISLE. 

BRIGHTON-. 

ROYAL CRESCENT HOTEL, 

MARINE PARADE, 

Facing the Sea, contains comfortable and spacious Suites of Apa: 
ments for Families, handsome Coffee-Room, Ladies' Drawing-Roo] 
good Bed-Rooms, Smoking-Room, &c. &c. Boarding arrangemer 
made. Tariff on application. HENRY HILLIAR, Proprietor, 



1 



BKISTOL. 
ROYAL HOTEL, COLLEGE GREEh 

FIRST-CLASS, Central, and pleasantly situated. Yery spacious Coffe 
Dining, Reading, Smoking, and Billiard Rooms. Private Apartmen 
en suite. One Hundred and Twenty Bed- Rooms. Steam Lift and Laundr 
Hot and Cold Baths. Telegraph Office and Post Office in the Hotel. Fixi 
Charges. All Omnibuses pass the door. Night Porter kept. 

F. SWANSON, Manager. 



\ 



1 



1 



CALLLANDER. 



rpHIS well-known and favourite Hotel has just been refurnished throughou 
■*- and is now open for visitors, who will meet with every comfort. Salmc 
Fishing in the Teith, also Boats and Men for Ijoch Vennachar and Loch Lu 
naig. Posting in all its branches as heretofore. Letters and Telegran 
addressed to the Manager will receive prompt attention. 

JAMES M'LEOD, Manager. 



CARLISLE. 

THE COUNTY HOTEL, 

TTTHICH affords every accommodation for Families and Gentle 

' '^ men, is Fireproof, and connected with the Platform of th 

Central Railway Station by a covered way. Porters in attendanc! 

on arrival of Trains. 

A Iiodies' Coffee-Koom. 



BUXTON. 1 3 



BDXTON, DERBYSHIRE. 



DiiSCEIf ilTIL 

pmS Fiest-Class hotel for FAMILIES and 
GENTLEMEN forms the South Wing of the Crescent, 
t is only One Minute from Eailway Stations, and 
3 connected by Covered Colonnade with the Hot and 
Natural Baths, Drinhing Wells, and the Neio Pavilion 
md Gardens, where a splendid Band performs Four 
Lours daily. 

THE ASSEMBLY ROOM 

n this Hotel, which has long been celebrated for its elegant 

■)roportions, has recently been re-decorated in the first style, 

and is now converted into the 

DINING-ROOM OF THE HOTEL. 



^u&ltc ©tning $c ©raioing Eooms. 



SUITES OF APARTMENTS FOR PRIVATE FAMIUES. 



TABLE D'HOTE AT 6 P.M. 



HRST-CLASS STABLING AND lOCK-TTP COACH-HOUSES. 

JOHN SMILTEE, Proprietor. 



1 ^ BUXTON. 

OLD HALL HOTEL, BUXTON, DERBYSHIRF 

BRIAN BATES, Peopbietoe. 
Also ofGrosvmwr Boarding House, No. 6 and 7 Broad Walk, Buxton, 

Teems sent on Application. 
FIEST-CLASS CAEEIAGES, HOESES. STABIIHG, & COACH-HOUSES.; 

V^sUors leaving early will oWge the ProvHetor ly ordering their Bills the night previous:, 

GROSVENOR ROARD AND LODGING-HOUSE, 

6 & 7 BROAD WALK, BUXTON 

(in close proximity to the Baths and Wells). 

BRIAN BATES, Proprietor. 

Also of the Old Hall Hotel, and Brooklyn Board and Lodging House, Buxton, Derbyshire. ' 

SUPERIOR SITTING-ROOMS, 

The Grosvenor Boarding House having a full view of the Pavilion and Gardens.] 

TERMS: 

For Board and Lodgings, including attendance, at 7s. and 8s. per dav-in Public 

' ' Vnot?ptvS- ^p' '\7 ^"^ T'^''^'- S^^™t'« S^^^ and^loard! 4s per day 
Boots extra-Gentlemen, 2s. per week ; Ladies, Is. 6d. per ^'eek 

WINTER TERMS (froxM November 1st to April SOth) 

Bed Room and Board in Public, 6s. per day. Ditto in Private, 7s. per day. 

SMOKING ROOM FOR GENTLEMEN, FOR VISITORS ONLY. 

Carriages may he ordered at the Bar of the Old Hall Hotel 

No. 1 & 2 BROOKLYN PLACE, SPRING GARDENS, 

BUXTON, DERBYSHIRE. 
BOARD AND LODGING H O U S!E. 

rpO siiit all parties Mr. Bates has opened an excellent Board and Lod^ins House as 

Lr f T' ^i^""'^ Moderate Charges, viz.-£2 : 2s. and £2 : 5 .6^ per week ?r 7s ner 

pe?week '"'"'' ^ ^''^' ^'''' extra-Gentlemen, Is. 9d. perVeek , Ladies, Is Jd! 

Carriages may he ordered at Mr. Bates' Stables, near to the above. 

BRIAN BATES, Proprietor. 



CARNARVON CHATSWORTH CHELTENHAM. 



15 




CARNARVON, NORTH WALES. 

ROYAL HOTEL 

(LATE UXBPJDGE AEMS), 

FIRST-CLASS FAMILY 8c COMMERCIAL ESTABLISHMENT 

Jeautifally situated on the Banks of the :N[enai Straits, and in close proximity to the 

Railway Station. 

EDWARD HUMPHREYS. 

^n Onmibus will regnlarly attend the arrival of each Train at the Railway Station. 

Billiards in detached premises. 
On and after June 19th, a Coach round Snowdon, after the arrival of the 9.25 a.m. 
lin, via Beddgelert, Vale of Gwynant, and the Pass of Llanberis, arriving at the hotel 
• dinner, and in time for the train for Llandudno, Rhyl, &c, 

HATSWORTH HOTEL, EDENSOR, 

DERBYSHIEE. 

This Hotel is beautifully situated in Chatsworth Park, and within ten minutes' walk 
the princely residence of the Duke of Devonshire. 

The hotel is the largest in the neighbourhood, and its proximity to the Rowsley 
ation, on the Midland Railway, affords every facility to Tourists desirous of ^visiting 
e beauties of Haddon Hall, Matlock, the Mines at Castleton, Dove Dale, etc.* 
Omnibuses from the hotel meet all the principal trains at Rowsley Station. 
A spacious Coffee-Room for Ladies. Private Sitting and well appointed Bed-Rooms. 
Post-TiorseSf etc. 

HE^^lY HARRISON. Proprietor : 

m CONNECTION WITH ST. ANN'S HOTEL, BUXTON. 

Railway Station, Rowsley. Postal address, Bakewell. 

D?iT Tioket-s for the Chatsvrorth Fisher^,-. 

CHELTENHAM. 

BELLE VUE HOTEL. 

FOR FAMILIES AND GENTLEMEN. 

liis Hotel is delightfully situated in tlie healthiest part of the town. 

TERMS MODEBA TE, 

G. EOLPH, Proprietor. 



16 CHEPSTOW COLWYN BAY. 

CHEPSTOW. 



1 



BEAUFORT ARMS HOTEL, 

An Old-Established First-class Family Hotel, within two minutes' walk of the R 
way Station, Castle, and River Wye. 

Ladies' Coffee-Room 60 feet by 30. Gentlemen's Coffee and Billiard Rooms. 
Omnibuses and Carriages meet all trains. 

The BEAUFOBT ARMS HOTEL, Tintern Abbey, conducted 
the same Proprietor. W. GARRETT 

CHEPSTOW. 

GEORGE FAMILY HOTEL. 

Ladies' Coffee and Sitting Eooms ; Large Garden and Meado^ 
back of the Hotel. 

Post Horses and Carriages. 

Excellent Billiard Room. 
Good Stables and Coach Horses. 

JOHN PRIGHARD, Proprietor, 



COLWYN BAY, NORTH WALES. 

POLLYCROCHON HOTEL, 

(Late the Residence of Lady Erskine). 

rjlHIS First-class Family Hotel is most beautifully situate 
in its own finely-wooded park in Colwyn Bay, cor 
manding splendid land and sea views, and miles of delightf 
walks in the adjacent woods. It is within a few minute 
walk of the Beach and ten minutes' of Colwyn Bay Statioi 
and a short drive of Conway and Llandudno. 
Sea-Bathing, Billiards, Posting. 

- J. PORTER, Proprietor. 



CLIFTON CONISTOX CONNEMARa. 1 7 

CLIFTON-DOWN HOTEL, 

CLIFTOK 

j Facing the Suspension Bridge. 

IpHE popularity of this Hotel has compelled the proprietors to extend the accommo- 
^ dation by the addition of several Bedrooms, Ladies' Drawing Rooms, a Suite of 
%partments for Wedding Breakfasts, Ball Sni)pers, &c. &c. Yii;itors will find ail the 

\ omforts of home, with fixed and moderate charges. The situation of the Hotel is 

.nrivalled, being on the Downs^^ and within ten minutes' walk of the new Cliiton-Down 

Railway Station. 
iV.^.— From this Hotel the following Trips are easy, returning to the Hotel the same 
:|4ay : - Chepstow Castle, the Wynd Cliff, Tintern Abbey, Wells Cathedral, Glastonbury 
. 'or, Bath, Weston-super-Mare, Clevedon, Portishead, Cardiff, Xew])ort, and Channel 
^-)ocks. B. GITTINS, Manager. 

- Clifton Hotel Company (Limited). 

CONISTON LAKE, LANCASHIEE. 

SLT'S 
WATERHEAD HOTEL. 

I'PHIS First-Class Establishment is perhaps the most delightfully 
situated of any Hotel in the Lake District ; it is surrounded with 
Deautiful pleasure-grounds and select walks,, and embraces most interesting 
Lake and Mountain Views. 

ZiADISS' AND aSNTXiEMSN'S COFFCS-ROOM. 

BILLIARDS. PRIVATE BOATS.. CROQUET GROUND. 
iL Steam Grondola runs daily on the !Lake during* the Season, 

Open a^^d Close Carriages, Post Horses, Guides. 

COACHES DAILY TO AMBLESIDE DURING THE SEASON. 

Postal Telegi'ai^h Station at Conistooi. 

An Omiiibus meets all Trains 

Postal Address — Coniston, Ambleside. JOSEPH S5LY, Proprietor. 

CONNEMARA. 

' GLENDALOUGH FISHERY HOTEL. 

TT\ MULLARKEY begs leave to announce that the aboTe establish- 
-■- • ment is in connection with his Hotel at Clifden. It is admir- 
ably situated for the Angler, commanding as it does the Vey or centre of 
the splendid and extensive Fishery of Ballinahinch ; "and for the Tourist 
and Family Parties visiting the Iris^h Highlands affording the most beauti- 
ful Scenery in the \Yest of Ireland, with all the comforts of Home. The 
Proprietor trusts that, with every attention to the comforts of his Visitors, 
he will merit their future support and patronao:e. Timely application is 
requested.— Address T. Mullakkey, Hotel, Clifden ; or, Fishery Hotel, 
Glendalough, via Galway. 

B 



1 8 CONWAY CORK CRIEFF. 

CONWAY. 
THE CASTLE HOTEL. 

]7^IEST- CLASS. Beautifully situated in the Vale 
Conway, and very central for Tourists in ISTort 
Wales. 

\3th April 1877. 



CORK. 

STEPHENS' COMMERCIAL HOTEL 

(Opposite the General Post Office, Cork), 

"POSSESSES first-class accommodation for Tourists, Comme' 
cial Gentlemen, and Families. 

It is very centrally situated, being opposite the Generj 
Post Office — close to the Bank, Theatre, &c. &c. 
Charges extremely Moderate^ 
WILLIAM D. STEPHENS, Proprietor, 

From the West of England. 

Extract from a '* Tour through Ireland," published in the 
North Briton, 1864 :— 
** When we arrived in Cork we took up our quarters at Stephens' Con; 
mercial Hotel, where we obtained excellent accommodation. 

** What this Hotel lacks in external show is amply compensated b 
unremitting attention on the part of the Proprietors and their attendants t 
the comfort of their Guests. " 

CRIEFF. 
THE DRTJMMOND ARMS HOTEIii 

The only Eirst-Class Hotel in Crieff. Families boarded b]l 
Week or Month. Large Posting Establishment. 

Prompt Attention given to all Communications. 
The Hotel Omnibus meets every Train. 

D. MACKENZIE, Proprietor. 



CORK. 19 




IMPEEIAL«« HOTEL. 



CORK. 

P. CURRY, Proprietor. 

^HIS long-established and well-known Hotel is conducted on the most 
•^ approved and modern system. It possesses every requisite to promote 
le Comfort and Convenience of Tourists. The Hotel contains 

OVER ONE HUNDEED BEDROOMS, 

eihree Coffee Eooms, Commercial Room, a Drawing Room for Ladies and 
amilies, Suites of Private Apartments, Smoking and Billiard Rooms, 
lath Rooms, &c. 

TABLE D'HOTE DAILY AT HALF-PAST SIX O'CLOCK. 

The Hotel adjoins the General Post Office ; as also the Commercial 
kiilding, where Merchants meet on " Change," and the earliest Telegraphic 
Tews is received, to the Reading Room of which Visitors to the Hotel have 
-ee access. It has been patronised within the last few years by their 
loyal Highnesses the Prince of Wales, Prince Alfred, Prince Napoleon, 
lie Due D' Orleans, the Comte de Paris, and the Count de Flandres, the 
Liccessive Lords Lieutenant of Ireland — Clarendon, Eglinton, Carlisle, 
nd Abercorn — as well as by the Nobility, and most of the leading 
rentry visiting Cork. 

The Charges will be found most Moderate. 

The Imperial Omnibuses attend the arrival and departure of 
each Train, 



extract from Sir CUSACK HONEY'S ''Month in Ireland:'' 

"Judge Haliburton (Sam Slick) says, * There are two things to be recom- 
lended to the notice of visitors to Ireland : — If you are an admirer of 
•eautiful scenery, go to the Cove of Cork ; if you want a good hotel, go to the 
mperial.' The Hotel in question is situated in Pembroke Street, having an 
n trance also in the South Mall, through the Commercial Buildings, the 
plendid News Room of which is open to visitors to the Hotel. For conveni- 
nce and comfort there is not a hotel superior to it in the Empire." 



20 DALMALLV DORKING BOVEE. 

LOOHAWE. 

DALMALLY HOTE] 

GLENORCHY. 

{At the Termmi of the Callander and Oban Railway.) 

rpHIS Hotel is beautifully situated on the main road betwe 
-*- Oban, Inveraray, Tarbet, and Killin, and commands unrivall 
views of mountain scenery, which are unsurpassed for grandeur 
any in Scotland. Excellent Salmon and Trout Fishing on Lo 
Awe and River Orchy free of charge to parties staying at the Hot 
The Tarbet, Inveraray, Oban, and Tyndrum Coaches arrive a 
depart daily from this Hotel, where seats are secured and eve, 
information given. 

N.B. — ^Passengers by the above Coaches have the liberty of breal 
ing the journey at Dalmally, visiting the various objects of inter<; 
in the neighbourhood, and proceeding any following day. 

D. FRASER, Proprietor. 

DORKING. 

WHITE HORSE HOTEL. 

"POR FAMILIES and TOURISTS. Enlarged and re-decorated. First-class ; 

conimodation. Saddle Horses. Carriages of every description for Picnics 

Leath Hill, Boxhill, &c. Excellent Stabling. FREDERICK COOKE, Propriet 

Omnibus on arrival of Trains at both Stations. 

2^.5.— Dorking Coach Office. Fly-Master by Appointment to Brighton and SouJ 
Eastern Railway Companies. 

DOVER. 



ADJOINING the Harbour Station of the London, Chathar 
and Dover Railway. 

One of the best-appointed Houses on the Coast for Famili< 
and Tourists. Good attention and reasonable Charges. 

THOS. WICKENS FRY, 
Prop'ietor, 



I 



DOVER DOVE DALE DUBLIN. 21 

IVER'S DOVER CASTLE HOTEL, 

Established upwards of Half a Century. 



IS Hotel, having been considerably enlarged and redecorated, offers every advan- 
j tage to Families and the Public travelling to and from the Continent— is situated 
I the Quay — close to both Railway Stations, and nearly adjoining the Admiralty Pier 
ence the Mail Boats depart. Good view of Sea, Harbour, Castle, and Cliffs. New 
ge and lofty Coffee Room, Ladies' iDrawing Room, and Private Rooms. Charges 

ej^derate. Arrangements made for Boarding per week on application. French and 

ij.rman spoken. Night Porter. 



PEVERIL HOTEL, 

DOVE DALE, 

KEAR ASHBOURNE. DERBYSHIRE. 



Oarden-and Croquet Ground. The Proprietor, G. Huggetts, in thanking his 
. .merous Friends and the Public in general for their past favours, assures them that 
' will devote his best energies to merit their continued support. 
uncheons always Ready, and Dinners on the Shortest Notice, 

Parties Boarded by the Day, Week, or Month at Moderate Charges. 

A Choice Selection of Wines, Liqueurs, &c. 

Conveyances to and from the Station. Tariff on Application. 

DUBLIN. 

JURY'S HOTEL, COLLEGE GREEN. 

Estahlished 40 Years, 
Greatly Enlarg^ed and Improved. 

Situated in the centre of the City, close to the Bank of Ireland, 
rinity College, the Castle, Theatres, &c. 

TABLE D'HOTE AT THREE AND HALF-PAST SIX. 

Charges Moderate. 

TWO NIGHT PORTERS IN ATTENDANCE. 

HENRY J. JURY, Proprietor. 
DUBLIN. 

SHELBOURNE HOTEL. 

j^ITUATED in most central and fashionable part of Dublin. 
Contains magnificent Public Eooms, Elevator, Telegraph 
)ffice, &c. &c. First-Class. Charges Moderate. 

JURY & COTTON, Proprietors. 



22 DUBLIN DUNBLANE DUNOON. * 

DUBLIN. 

THE ^^ABBEY^' HOTEL, 

Commercial and Family Hotel (Scotch House), 

102 & 103 MIDDLE ABBEY STREET (off SACKYILLE STREET 

Mrs. ARTHUR, Proprietress, I 

rjOMBINES the Comfort of a Home with Moderate Charges. Is centrally situate ^ 
y.. l^emg withm two minutes' walk of the General Post Office, and near the Bar d 
College, Steamboats, and Kail way Stations. ^ 

Show Booms for Commercial Gentlemen, 



DUNBLANE. 

STIRLING ARMS HOTEL 

"VriSITOES and TOUEISTS visiting the Far -fame 

» Cathearal will find every Comfort combined wit 

Moderate Charges in the above Hotel. 

H. MAESHALL, i'ropnete 



DUNOON. 

ARGYLL HOTEL. 

UNDER NEW MANAGEMENT. 
ALEXANDER GUNN, Lessee, 

"DEGS to call the attention of the Nobility, Tourists, and Travelling Public to th* 
J^ superior accommodation he is now able to give. The Hotel is greatly enlarged 
remodelled, and refurnished in elegant style, with all modern improvements. 

Suites of Apartments ; magnificent Coffee Koom and Ladies' Drawing Room ; Privat<' 
Parlours ; Smoking and Billiard Saloon ; Fresh and Salt Water Baths ; and upwardi 
of Fifty Large and Well- Aired Bed-Rooms, looking over the Firth of Clyde. Altogether 
this Hotel will be found one of the most complete in Scotland. 

The " Argyll " is the only first-class Hotel in Dunoon, and is situated within one 
minute's walk of the Pier. 

Table D'Hote Daily. Dinners a la Carte. 

Posting in all its Branches. | All Orders punctually attended to. 

Post and Telegram Office in connection with the Hotel. 

Dunoon is the favourite Watering-place on the Clyde, and the most central station 
for the following Excursions :— Ardrishaig (by Steamer lona), Lochlomond, Lochlong, 
Lochgoil, Gareloch, Ayr, Rothesay, Arran, all returning the same day. Parties going 
by Steamer loTia would do well to be in Dunoon the previous evening. 



DUNOON DUNKELD EDINBURGH. 23 

M'COLL'S HOTEL, 

ADJOINING THE CASTLE HILL, 
WEST BAY, DUNOON. 

' i TK M*COLL, late Lessee of the Argyll Hotel, Dunoon, begs to intimate 
'J. to his numerous friends that he has purchased Lismore Lodge, (late 

.^sidence of H. E. C. Ewing, Esq., Lord-Lieutenant of Dumbartonshire) 

ailid has opened it as a First-Class Family and Commercial Hotel. The 
ouse is beautifully situated, and commands a magnificent view of the 
irth of Clyde. Every attention having been paid to the fitting up of the 

-ouse, it will be found to possess all the comforts of a home. 
Tourists will find this a very convenient resting-place, as all the Steamers 
>r the favourite routes touch here at convenient hours. 
This is the only Hotel in Dunoon with Ladies' Drawing Eoom and 

jRiVATE Pleasure Grounds. 

Hot^ Cold, and Spray Baths. 

Private entrance to West Bay Shore for Sea Bathing. 

Spacious and Airy Bed Pooms, Private Sitting and magnificent Drawing 
-ooms. Splendid Dining Room. Croquet Lawn. 

Table D'Hote Daily. Charges Moderate. 

DUNKELD. ~~~~ 

"ISHER'S^^^ ROYAL 

HOTEL. 

( Under the Patronage of the Royal Family. ) 

Cms HOTEL, one of the largest in the Highlands of Scotland, and well known as a 
first-class establishment, is most conveniently situated for visiting the Duke of 
ithole's Pleasure Grounds, the ancient Cathedral, tl\e Hermitage, Rumbling Bridge, . 
nd the numerous Lakes in the immediate neighbourhood ; and also for making Excur- 
ions to the Pass of Killiecrankie, Falls of the Tummel and Bruar, Blair Castle, Aber- 
3ldy, and Taymouth Castle. Families Boarded at moderate terras during the early 
lart of the Season. Coach to Braemar and Balmoral ; seats secured only at the HoteL 
Carriages of every description. Omnihuses to meet each Train. 

THE ROYAL ALEXANDRA HOTEL 

11, 12, & 13 SHANDWICK PLACE, EDINBURGH. 

West End ofPrin/^es Street, and in the immediate neighbourhood of the Caledonian and 
Hay market Stations. 

THIS First-class Family Hotel was opened on the 1st of June 1874 by 
MISS BR0W:N', formerly of the Windsor Hotel, Moray Place, and the 
^larendon Hotel, Princes Street. The Royal Alexandra Hotel has 
)een entirely rebuilt, and fitted np with every modern improvement re- 
quired for the convenience and comfort of visitors, and Miss Brown hopes 
merit a continuance of the favours she has already received. Coffee-room 
ind public drawing-room. 



24 



EDINBURGH. 




THE RUTLAKD HOTEL,! 

NEWLY CONSTRUCTED, DECORATED, and FURNISHED 

WITH EVERY MODERN CONVENIENCE AND COMFORT, 

Adjoining the" Caledonian Railway Station, West End of Princes Street, and within 3 
minutes' walk of the Haymarket Station, North British Railway, 

EDINBURGH. 

i( 'pHE RUTLAND " commands the finest views of the City ; contains a Magnificent 

-*- Coffee- Room, Ladies' Drawing-Rooms, spacious Bed-Rooms, with uninterrupted 

views ; Suites of Apartments ; Stock- Rooms for Commercial Gentlemen ; Hot, Cold, 

and Shower Baths, &c. &c. Tariff of Charges on application to the Manager. 

THOMAS LAIDLAW, Proprietor. 
MUSSELBURGH (near Edinburgh). 

MUSSELBUEGH ARMS HOTEL. 

/CONVENIENTLY situated in the centre of the Town, and in the immediate vicinity 
^ of the Links. Commercial Gentlemen, Visitors, Golfers visiting Musselburgh, will 
find the Hotel replete with every modern convenience, combined with Moderate 
Charges. 

BILLIARD ROOM. 

Stabling attached with accommodation for Race Meetings. 

Posting in all its Branches. 

THOMAS LAIDLAW, Propkietor. 



J5DIKBURGH, 




Opposite the Scott Monument and Gardens. 

ICHE EOYAL HOTEL, 

(IHac^regor, late GIBE'S) 

63 PRINCES STREET, EDINBURGH. 

In answer to the enquiries of his numerous patrons, Mr. Macgregor has the 
i.easure to announce that the grand entrance, with all the public rooms connected 
lierewith, is now opkn and ready for their reception. 

|)LACES OF INTEREST SEEN FROM HOTEL :— Arthur's Seat, over 800 feet 
I high. Assembly Hall. Calton Hill. Edinburgh Castle. East and West Princes 
treet Gardens. Free Church College and Assembly Hall. Royal Observatory. Sir 
falter Scott's Monument. Salisbury Crags. St. Giles's Cathedral. Parliament House 
I he Royal Institution. The Royal Scottish Academy and National Gallery. The 
j.ntiquarian Museum. From tower of Hotel are seen the Firth of Forth, Bass Rock 
lie Lomond, Corstorphine, and Pentland Hills, and a part of four or five of the 
leighbounng counties. The Royal Hotel is within a hundred yards of Railway 
Itations, and occupies the finest position in the City. 

Charges Moderate. 

An Eletator. Night Porters. 

I CAUTION.— Fisiiors intending to put up at the Royal must be careful to see that they 
re taken there, as mistakes have occurred, causing great disappointment. 



26 



EDINBURGH. 



THE BALMORAL HOTEL, 

PEINCES STREET, EDINBURGH. 



EH 
O 

M 

C» 

<1 

u 

I 

EH 

in 




E. THEIM, Manager. 



J. GRIEVE, Proi?ne/^(??'. 



EDINBURGH. 



27 




EDINBURGH. 

PHILP'S COCKBURN HOTEL, 

Immediately adjoining the Terminus of the Great Northern Trains, 
PHIS commodious and well-appointed Hotel is beautifully situated, over- 
L looking Princes Street Gardens, and commanding some of the finest 
iews in the city. 

A large and elegantly-furnished Saloon — admitted to be the fin^^.^t in 
'•Gotland — set apart for Ladies, Gentlemen, or Families, wishing to avoid the 
xpense of Sitting-Kooms. 

The views from, the immense windows of this Saloon are, without ex- 
eption, the finest in Edinburgh. 

Private Suites of Apartments, Bath-Eooms, Cofiee and Smoking Eooms, 
nd every accommodation for Gentlemen. 

PIANOS IN ALL THE PARLOURS AND SALOONS. 

Charges^ including Attendance^ strictly Moderate, 

T.^.—'Ux. Cook (of London) makes this Hotel his headquarters when in Scotland, 
^liere every information may be obtained of his Tourist arrangements. 
Cook's Hotel Coupons accepted at the Cockhurn. 
On Parle Franqais. Man Spricht Deutsch. 

First-Class Turkish Baths in connection with this Hotel, 



2S 



EDINBURGH. 




WATERLOO HOTEL, 

WATERLOO PLACE, EDINBUEGH. 

rpHIS elegant and Commodious Building, the finest in Scotland specially built for i 
-*- First-Class Hotel, with every modern convenience and appliance, has now passec 
into the hands of Mr. Anderson of the Cafe Roj'^al Hotel, and the whole Establishmeni 
has been newly decorated and furnished in a style unsurpassed. 

* The Waterloo ' is nearly opposite the General Post Office, and in the immediat( 
vicinity of the ^.General Railway Terminus, Register House, Banks, and other Public 
Offices. 

Charges on the lowest scale consistent with First-Class Accommodation. 
Marriage Dejeuners— Suites of Apartments. 

THE CAFE ROYAL HOTEL & DINING-ROOMS 

{The largest Dining-Rooms in Scotland) 
will— along with 'The Waterloo' — be conducted, as hitherto, under the personal 
superintendence of Mr. Anderson. 

To meet the requirements of the age. Table d' Hole daily, from 5 to 8, on the London 
Dining Establishment .principle, at 3s., consisting of Soups, Fishes, Entrees, Joints, 
Sweets, and Dessert. 

BREAKFASTS, LUNCHEONS, DINNERS, SUPPERS, A LA CARTE. 

This Hotel also affords every accommodation to Visitors, and has recently been 
refurnished and redecorated in a very superior style. 

SPACIOUS COFFEE-ROOM. LADIES' COFFEE-ROOM. 

Large Well-Ventilated Bed-Rooms. 

HOT, COLD, & SHOWER BATHS & LAVATORIES. 

Bed and Attendance, 3s. 

W. ANDERSON, Proprietor. 



I 



EDINBURGH. 



29 



THE OLD 

WAVERLEY 

TEMPERANCE HOTEL, 

43 PRINCES STREET, EDINBURGH. 

ROBERT CRANSTON, in returning thanks to his numerous Friends and the 
Public, begs to inform them that the above Hotel has been re-constructed, fitted, 
and furnished with all the most modern improvements which the present times can 
supply, and that, notwithstanding the great rise in the value of property in Princes 
Street, and the high prices of labour and material in the erection of his New Hotel, the 
charges for Bed-Rooms remain the same as they were 33 years ago. Hoping for a 
continuance of their kind patronage, R. C. will make it his constant endeavour to 
attend to the comfort, convenience, and interest of his Friends. 

TO STRANGERS unacquainted with Edinburgh, R. C. begs to intimate that 
the situation of the Old Waverley is within one minute from the Great Central Railway 
Station, and commands the Grandest Views in the City ; while the street itself is said 
to be the finest in the world. Immediately opposite the Hotel, and forming the south 
side of Princes Street, is the Garden Terrace, a x>ublic promenade, upon which stand 
the unequalled "Scott" and other noble monuments, while tlie gardens below form the 
valley betwixt the Old and New Towns. To the west, the grand old Castle, towering 
over the city ; to the south, the romantic Old Town, with St. Giles' Cathedral and 
other prominent structures ; and to the east, Arthur's Seat, Holyrood Palace, and 
Calton Hill, the view from the latter of which is said to surpass even that of the Bay 
of Naples. 

Uniform Charges are made at the following Hotels, belonging to the same Pro- 
prietor : — 



EDINBURGH 
EDINBURGH 
GLASGO^W . 
LONDON 



OLD WAVERLEY, 43 PRINCES STREET. 
NEW WAVERLEY, 18 WATERLOO PLACE. 
185 BUCHANAN STREET. 
37 KING STREET, CHEAPSIDE. 



Breakfast or Tea Is. 3d., Is. 6d., Is. 9d. 

Public Dinner 2s. 

Bed-Room Is. 6d. 

Private Parlours 3s. 

Service Is. 



Recommended by Bradshaw's Tourists' Guide as **the cheapest and best Temper- 
ance Hotel they had ever seen," and by J. B. Gough as "the only Home he had found 
since leaving his own in America." 



30 EDINBDKGH. 

EDINBURGH. 

EGBERT MIDDLEMASS, Peopeietor of the 

EDINBURGH HOTEL, PRINCES STREET, 

has the honour of announcing that he has 
entered on a Lease of 

Til lilfiLiS liTIL, 

SAINT ANDREW SQUARE, 

whicli has for many years been distinguished by the Patronage of tb, 
Royal Families of Gh-eat Britain and Europe. 

It is situated in the principal Square, from which picturesque view; 
are^ obtained, within a short distance of all the Railway Stations ; anc 
while it commands perfect quietude, is in the vicinity of the various Publi< 
Buildings and Places of Interest for which the City is so justly famed. 

The moderate Tariff, which has given such universal satisfaction to visit 
ors at the Edinburgh Hotel, has been adopted at the Douglas. 

THE 

PALACE HOTEL 

109 AND 110 PRINCES STREET 
EDINBURG H. 

THIS FIRST-CLASS FAMILY HOTEL 

Occupies the Best Position in Princes Street, immediately 
opposite Edinburgh Castle, and commands Beautiful Views over 
the Gardens, with th« Calton Hill and Arthur's Seat in the 
distance. Extensive Alterations have just been completed, not 
only adding to the accommodation, but supplying increased Kesi- 
dential Comforts ; and although the House was built only five 
years ago, the Furnishings and Decorations have been entirely 
overhauled and largely renewed. 

A detailed Tariff wall be forwarded on application, and prompt; 
attention given to all communications. 

J. FERGUSON, Manager, 



EDINBURGH. ' 31 

THE WINDSOR HOTEL, 

(Late Dejay's) 

99, 100, 101, PEINCES STEEET, EDINBUEGH. 

PHIS First-class Family Hotel, having recently been considerably 
improved, is situated in the most pleasant and central part of 
he Metropolis, opposite the Castle, and overlooking West Princes 
street Gardens. ' Private suites of Apartments, handsome Coffee 
Jloom, Ladies' and Gentlemen's Drawing Eooms, Smoking Eoom, 
md Bath Rooms. 

The Culinary Department is under the personal superintendence 
)f the Proprietor, whose thorough practical experience as Chef de 
luisine of the Balmoral Hotel is ^vell known, and will be a 
iufficient guarantee for efiSciency. 

Continental Languages Sjpolcen. Charges Strictly Moderate. 

French and German Newspapers kept. 

A. M. THIEM, Proprietor. 

THE CLARENDON HOTEL, 

104 and 105 PEINCES STEEET, EDINBUEGH, 

Directly opposite the Castle, and overloolcing West Princes Street 
Gardens. 

"THIS First-Class Hotel, after having been entirely built, and 
Furnished in the most elegant manner, was opened May 
.876 for the reception of Visitors. 

The view from the large oriel windows of Public and 
i^rivate Sitting Eooms is unsurpassed, the Bed Eooms large 
Lud airy, and fitted up with every regard to comfort. 
Charges Strictly Moderate. 

JAMES M^GEEGOE, 

Proprietor. 



32 



EDINBURGH. 



THE LONDON HOTEL 

ST. ANDREW SQUARE, EDINBURGH. 

JEstablislied upwards of Fifty Years. 



THIS COMMODIOUS and GOMFOETABLE HOTEli 
entirely EE- MODELLED and EE-FUENISHEI 
throughout, has been opened by 

HEISTBY A?VHITE, late Clubmaster to tlie TJIsriVERSITY CLUI 
Princes Street, Edinburgh. 

From its Central Situation and the spacious character of its AccomuK 
dation, the London will be found, as hitherto, an Extremely Convenieij 
Hotel ; while from Mr. White's experience as Clubmaster and otherwis 
he can confidently ensure to the Public an Exceptionally Superior Cuisin 

The BILLIARD and SMOKING ROOMS have been fitted up in the most 
comfortable manner. 

EDINBURGH. 
CALEDONIAN HOTEL, 

115, 116, & 117 PEINCES STREET, and 1 CASTLE STREET 
Established 40 Vears. 

(Exactly opposite the Castle.) 
E. B. Moore. Late J. Burnett. 

ALMA HOTEL, 

112, 113, and 114 PEmCES STREET, EDmEUEGH. 

{Opposite the Castle.) 

/COMBINING all the comforts of a Home with the convenience of 
Hotel. Ladies' Coffee-room and Drawing-room. Table d'Hote. 
Charges strictly moderate. 

A. M)J)l^O^, Proprietor. 



EDINBURGH. S3 

EDINBUEGH. 

THE ROXBURGHE HOTEL. 

THIS Hotel is situated in Charlotte Square, one of the finest parts of the 
City. The garden in front of the Hotel was specially approved of by 
Her Majesty the Queen for the site of the National Albert Monument. The 
Coffee-room is quiet and comfortable, and well adapted for Ladies or Gentle- 
men. The Private Sitting-rooms are laid out with Bed-rooms and Dressing- 
room en suite. In connection with the above is 

: KERR'S PRIVATE HOTEL. 

V E I T C H'S 

FIEST-CLASS 

PEIVATE HOTEL, 

120 AND 122 GEORGE STREET, EDINBURGH. 



Charges strictly Moderate, Established over 30 ITears, 

GUNN'S (LATE MooRES) PRIVATE FAMILY HOTEL 

{Established over Twenty Years). 

2 FORRES STREET 8t 1 ST. COLME STREET, 

WEST EKD OF QUEEN STREET, EDINBUEGH. 

rpHIS First-Class Family Hotel occupies one of the best and quietest positions in Edin« 
-■- burgh, and only three minutes' walk from the Caledonian Railway Station, Princes St. 
Bed-Rooms and Attendance from 2s. 6d. Sitting-Rooms from 3s. per day. Plain 
Breakfasts and Teas from Is. Full Dinners from 2s. t)d. 



JOHN GUNN, Proprietor, 

TO WHOM ALL COMMUNICATIONS SHOULD BE ADDRESSED. 

DARLING'S REGENT HOTEL 

20 WATEELOO PLACE, EDINTBUEGH. 

Nearly opposite the General Post- Office, 
Situated in tlie Principal Street of the City, in the immediate vici- 
nity of the Calton Hill and Public Buildings. Large comfortable 
Coffee-Room for parties with Ladies, free of charge. Also Private 
Parlours. 

This is admitted to be one of the best Temperance Hotels in Scotland 
Charges strictly Moderate. 



34 EDINBURGH— EXETER FORRES. 

THE 

ROYAL BRITISH HOTEL, 

22 PEINCES STREET, EDINBURGH. 
Public Drawing-Room. Suites of Apartments for Families and Gentlemer 
Table d'Hote in the Grand Saloon, 
Public and Private Billiard-Eooms. 

J. GRIEVE, Proprietor. 



Ti y Ti m Ti T> 

ROYAL CLARENCE HOTEL 

CATHEDRAL YARD. 

This Old-Establistied and Fashionable Hotel has just undergone entii 
renovation, and is fitted with every convenience for the comfort of Ladie 
and Gentlemen. Hot and Cold Baths. Ladies' Coffec-Room. 

W. BIRKETT, Proprietor. 

EXETEE. 

POPLE'S NEW LONDON HOTEL 

FOR FAMILIES AND GENTLEMEN. 

This Hotel contains all the appointments found in First-Class Estab 
lishments, adjoining JSTorthernbay Park, and within three minutes' wal] 
of the Cathedral. Visitors will find the comfort and attention of hom 
with fixed moderate charges. A Ladies' Coff'ee Room. Night Porter 
Omnibuses to every Train. Posting in all its branches. 

FORRES. 
WILKIE'S (Late Edgar's) 

FAMILY AND GOHMERGIAL HOTEL 

HIGH STREET, FORRES. 
Charges Moderate. 



FORRES FORT-WILLIAM GLASGOW. 35 

CAMPBELL'S 

ROYAL STATION HOTEL 

FORRES, Adjoining the Railway Platform. 

{Patronised by the Royal Family and Leading Memhei^s of the 

Nobility and Aristocracy of Europe.) 

APARTMENTS EN SUITE. SPACIOUS BILLIARD AND SMOKING 

ROOM JUST ADDED. 

£oots in attendance at all Trains. 

JAMES CAMPBELL, Proprietor and Lessee. 
FOET-WILLIAM. 

CALEDONIAN HOTEL. 

EODERICK M 'DONALD, of long experience as flotel-keeper in Scotland and 
England, begs most respectfully to intimate that he has become Lessee of the 
above first-class Hotel, which contains excellent accommodation for Families, Tourists, 
and Travellers, combined with reasonable charges. Three minutes' walk from the Pier, 
where the daily 5-30 a.m. steamer to Glasgow calls half-a-mile from the foot of the far- 
famed Ben-Nevis. Guides, Ponies, &c., kept for ascending the mountain. 

An Omnibus from the Hotel to and from the Inverness steamers on the Caledonian 
Canal at Bannavie twice a-day. 

The Royal Mail Coach to and from Kingussie daily, on the route to Glencoe and 
Lochloniond. Charges strictly Moderate. 



GLASGOW. 

ROYAL HANOVER HOTEL, 

HANOVER STREET, GEORGE SQUARE, GLASGOW. 

MERTON R. COTES, Proprietor. 

"The Editor of 'BRADSHAW highly recommends this Hotel for its Superior 
Arrangements, Excellent Management, and Domestic Comforts." — Sept. 7, 1871. 

" First-Class Hotel for Families and Gentlemen, replete with the comforts of 
B-ome." —Murray's Ch-iide to Scotland, 1871. 

"Quiet Family Hotel, combining excellence in every department." — Black's 
G^dde to Scotland, 1871. 



GLASGOW. 

BALMORAL HOTEL 

opposite Caledonian Railway Station, Buchanan St. 



SUITES OF ROOMS. 

s. d. ' s. d. 
Drawing Room, with Bed and 
I Dressing Rooms en suite 8 to 10 

Service. 
Each person 



s. d. s. d. 
Breakfasts . . . . . .1 6 to 2 6 

Dinners from 2 6 

BED ROOMS. 
Bed Rooms for One Person ... 2 
Do. for Two Persons . ..30 

THIS HOTEL is, in Style and Comfort, equal to any in Glasgow, while 
the Charges are Moderate in the extreme. 

Xiadies' Coffee Room. 

D. J. BEOWN, Proprietor. 



36 



GAIRLOCH. 




GAIELOCH HOTEL, 

Sea-Bathing.] ROSS-SHIRE. [Sea-Bathing. 

{In connection with Loch Maree Hotel) 

THIS large and splendid Establishment, built in 1872 and 1873, offers, through its 
magnificent situation and superior accommodation, all the comforts of the best first- 
class Hotels. It contains handsome Dining Room, Ladies' Drawing Room, Private 
Sitting Rooms and most comfortable and spacious Bedrooms, overlooking a noble 
Beach, and commanding exquisite Sea Views and Landscapes of singular beauty. II 
is distant about six miles respectively from the middle and north end of the beautiful 
LOCH MAREE; twelve miles from Fhionn Loch, of which the scenery is said tc 
outrival Coruisk ; and is within view of the most noted portions of the Island of Skye. 
GAIRLOCH HOTEL is also the starting-point for Tourists from Oban and Portree, 
proceeding via LOCH MAREE to Inverness and the South, and vice versa. 
BATH ROOMS, with Hot, Cold, and Shower Baths. 

BatMng-Maelunes and Excellent Sea-Bathing on one of the Finest Beaches 
in Scotland. 

Sea-Fishing can be enjoyed in great perfection, and the Hotel has the right of Hod- 
Fishing for Trout on a capital Loch in the immediate vicinity. No charge for Fishing 



or Boats. 



Over Seventy Beds can be made up. 
POSTING. 



Coaches run daily to and from the Hotel, in connection with the trains of the Ding- 
wall and Skye Railway Company ; and Messrs. David Hutcheson & Co.'s swift steamers 
ply direct from Oban throughout the season. 

Orders by Letter or Telegram for Conveyances, Coach Seats^ or Apartments, carefully 
attended to. JAMES HOBWSBY. 



I GLASGOW. 37 

GLASGOW. 

MACLEAN^S HOTEL, 

ST. VINCENT STREET, GLASGOW. 

MR. MACLEAN begs* to annoTince that he will REMOVE his Business 
early in July to his Magnificent NEW PREMISES, situated on the 
Plateau immediately above the old House, and adjoining Blythswood 
Square (the most central and salubrious situation in Glasgow). 

The New Hotel is built from the foundation in the grandest style, and 
contains every comfort and convenience suggested by modern ingenuity. 

Elevator to convey Visitors to each Floor. 
The Finest Ladies' Drawing-Room in the Kingdom. 

Reading, Smoking, and Billiard Rooms. 

Handsome Coffee-Room and Magnificent Dining Saloon. 

Apartments en suite for Families, and over 120 Bedrooms. 

Baths of every description. 

Visitors may rely upon every attention being given to ensure their comfort. 

Moderate Charges. 

GLASGOW. 

THE BLYTHSWOOD HOTEL 

FOOT OF HOPE STREET, IN ARGYLE STREET. 

CONSISTING of Fifty Apartments— viz. Coffee Eoom, Commercial 
Room, Smoking and Billiard Rooms, Reading and Writing Room, 
Six Parlours, and Forty Bedrooms. Every accommodation for Commercial 
Gentlemen and Families. Two minutes' walk from St. Enoch Station. 

JNO. LEARY (late Clubmaster, New Club), Proprietor. 

ATHOLE ARMS HOTEL 

(Opposite the Untrance of the North British Railway Station), 

DUNDAS STREET, GLASGOW. 

rpHE Proprietor begs respectfully to announce that, having found the "ATHOLE 
-•- ARMS " much too small for his increasing business, he has made extensive Altera- 
tions and Additions. The Hotel has been thoroughly Re-decorated and Re-furnished, 
consisting of a spacious COFFEE ROOM for Ladies and Gentlemen ; COMMERCIAL 
ROOM ; BILLIARD ROOM ; SMOKING ROOM ; several Elegantly Furnished PRI- 
VATE PARLOURS. Upwards of Thirty Extra BED ROOMS have been added. Hot, 
Cold, Shower, and Spray Baths. Bed Room, including attendance, from 2s. 6d. to 
3s. 6d. The Wines and Spirits are of the Best Quality, having been specially selected. 
NIGHT PORTER. JAMES M'KENZIE, Proprietor. 

P.S.— New Entrances, Nob. 13 and 21 Dundas Street. 



38 GLASGOW. 

MANN'S 

RAINBOW HOTEL, 

6 BRIDGE STREET, GLASGOW. 

nPHIS Hotel has undergone extensive Alterations and Improve- 
ments, and is now, in point of Comfort, all that could be 
desired. Its immediate proximity to the various Railway Termini, 
the arrival and departure Wharves of the American, Highland, and 
Coasting Steamers, renders it unquestionably convenient alike for 
Commercial Gentlemen, Families, and Tourists. 

Numerous Suites of Private Kooms. 

Large and Elegant Commercial Room. 

Superbly Furnished Coffee Room for Ladies and Gentlemen, 

SMOKING ROOM. BILLIARD ROOM. BATH ROOMS. 

Wines of Choicest Brands carefully selected. 
Man S;pricht Deutsch. On Parle Frangaise. 

CHARLES MANN, Proprietor. 

^*^ lOJVA BERTH DIRECTLY OPPOSITE. 

NORTH BRITISH IWIPERIAL HOTEL 

(AT THE NORTH BRITISH TERMINUS), 

GEOEGE SQUAEE, GLASGOW. 

FIRST-CLASS FAMILY AND COMMERCIAL. 

PETER MACDONALD, Proprietor. 

REGENT HOTEL, 

221 SAUCHIEHALL STREET, GLASGOW. 

(Under New Management.) 

First-Class for Families and Visitors. 

Bed and Attendance, 3s. and 3s. 6d. Parlours from 5s. per day. 

Spacious Coffee-Roomf capable of dining over 130 persons. 

AN ELEGANT DRAWING-ROOM. 

JOHN KENNEDY, Proprietor 

(Many years in the Queen's and George Hotels, Glasgow, '/ 
and late of Rothesay). 



GLASGOW. 39 

! WASHINGTON TEMPERANCE HOTEL, 

172 TO 184 SAUCHIEHALL STEEET, GLASGOW. 

A First- Class Family and Commercial Hotel, within Three Minutes* 
■^ drive of the Kailways. 

I Breakfast and Tea, Is. 6d. and 2s. Bed and Attendance, 2s. 9d. 

CITY COiVliyiERGIAL DINING ROOMS, 

U & 60 UNION STREET, AND 35 MITCHELL STREET, GLASGOW. 

ONE of the most Extensive and Comfortable Dining Establishments in 
Scotland, capable of accommodating upwards of 2000 Visitors daily. 
j3reakfasts, Dinners, and Teas, served with comfort, economy, and despatch. 

I Bill of Fare, EXTRA MODERATE. 

Ladies' private dining room, gentlemen's lavatory 

No Gratuities to Waiters. 
\ MATTHEW WADDELL, Proprietor. 

THE BEDFORD HOTEL 

j. . (COMMEECIAL AND FAMILY) 

ST. GEORGE'S PLACE (CORNER OF BUCHANAN STREET), 

GLASGOW. 

THIS Commodious and Comfortable Hotel, entirely Remodelled and 
Refurnished anew, has been opened by JOHN GUNN. 

Eeading and Draming Boom in connection with Goffee-Eoom, Stock Romns. 
GLASGOW. 

HIS LORDSHIPS LARDER AND HOTEL, 
10 ST. ENOCH SQUARE, GLASGOW. 

Breakfasts, Luncheons, Dinners, Teas ; Oyster, Fish, and Teipij 

Suppers. Good Rooms for Dinner and Supper Parties. 

Excellent Bedrooms. Coffee-Room. Good Lavatory, and Smoking-Room. 

Charges Moderate. 

Gj^posite St. Enoch Station Boohing Office. 

E. SALMON, Proprietor. 



40 GLENGARRIFF. 



HEALTH EESORT, 

GLENGARRIFF, 



I 



S strongly recommendec^ "by Eminent Physicians for its equable, mild, bu' 
not relaxing climate. The excursions by land and water are numerous' 
—amongst others, the celebrated dxive to the LAKES OF KILLARNEY, 
thus described by Lord John Manners : — I 

*'The twenty miles from Kenmare to GlengarrifF form the grandes 
road, barring the Alpine passes, that I know. '^ 

The celebrated Thackeray writes : — *' What sends picturesgue tourist, 
to the Rhine and Saxon Switzerland 1 Within five miles of the pretty Ini 
of Glengarriff, there is a country of the magnificence of which no pen ca% 
give an idea. The journey from Glengarriff to Kenmare is one of astonish 
ing beauty ; and I have seen Killarney since, and am sure that Glengarrifl 
loses nothing by comparison with this most famous of lakes." ; 

From Happy Thought Notes, — Punch. " Gleoigarrifi'.—'Ecchii: 
Hotel. Charmingly situated. Facing the bay, and on the road. Old- 
fashioned, covered with creepers and roses, and bed-rooms commanding 
the bay. Eccles Hotel, GlengarrifF, is worth far more than a passing visit. 
I am delighted with it. It is, as far as attendance and cuisine and general 
comfort, the best Hotel I've been in. The coffee-room seems to have been 
fitted up to the very latest fashion of taste ; the climate is so mild, thai 
even at nine o'clock on an early spring evening you can sit out in front oi 
the hotel, and enjoy your coffee and cigar. And here also I will introduce 
a useful piece of advice for the tourist who may be passing the same route 
as myself. 07ily hire your car from Killarney to Glengarriff. You can' 
get OAiother at your own convenience, and just as good at Glengarriff, to tdkt 
you on!' 

Murray's Hanbdook for Ireland describes this Hostelry as one 

of the best of the South of Ireland Hotels. Over Ten Thousand Pounds 

have recently been expended on 

THE ECCLES HOTEL 

and its extensive pleasure grounds, through which are five miles of beauti- 
ful walks. 

The Hotel is replete with indoor comforts, library, picture gallery, &c 
The telegraph office and pier adjoin the Hotel. Sea bathing, boating, 
fishing, shooting, &c. Reduced tariff during the winter months. Terms 
and Testimonials from Eminent Physicians can be obtained from the' 
Manager. 



GLO UCESTER GOLSPIE GRANTO WN GREENOCK. 

GLOUCESTEE. 

THE BELL, 

3LD- ESTABLISHED, First-class Family aiid Commercial . : 
Appointments, Cuisine, and Wines perfect, combined with tt • cer- 
rinty of Comfort and Attention. Omriibuses to and from every T^'. " " 
ixtensive Stabling, Post Horses, and Carriages. Night Porter in atten 
Tariff on application to 

THOMAS ALLEN, Manager, e 

GOLSPIE. 

ROYAL SUTHERLAND ARMS HOTEL 



BEAUTIFULLY situated within a mile of Dunrobin Castle, the G:^> I'l.is 
of which are open to the Public, Free Trout Fishing on Loch B-ora 
Dr parties staying at the Hotel. Five minutes' walk from sea - -r i. 
lorses and Carriages on Hire. An Omnibus meets Trains. C:^ T!/et^ 
moderate. JA^IES JMITCHELL, Propriet. . 

GRANTOAVN. 
GRANTOWN, ON THE HIGHLAND RAILWAY. 

THE GRANT ARMS HOTEL, 

Patronised hy Her Majesty the Queen. 
PHIS well-known Hotel lias lately been rebuilt and greatly enlarged. Com..,^ :.....i 
*- Room, Cotfee Koom, Private Parlours, en suite. Grantown is acknowledge' l :•- be 
»ne of the verj-- healthiest places in Scotland. The summer climate being pe<:uliarly 
•alubrious, with delightfully bracing air, which is invariably experienced by Visit ^r- iii 
)ne Day's time. Cairngorm and the surrounding Mountains, Huntly's Cav - '^.r. 1 
>astle Grant, are specially interesting, besides the famed scenery of Rothiemurc.")u- ^.i>.' 
Banks of the Spey, which afford beautiful drives. Good Trout Fishing can be I i ": ;: 
he neighbourhood, and Salmon occasionally. The Hotel 'Uus attends the i'rc'ns 
^osting. Carriages of every description for Hiring. Parties Posted on to BfJ" .-ici' 
Braemar, and Ballater. A. FRASER, Propr,': r. 

GEEENOCK. 

TONTINE HOTEL. 



"DEING the Largest and Principal Hotel in GreenorV, 
■*-^ Travellers and Tourists will find all the Comforts of a 
Home at the Tontine. 

JOHN CUERIE, Propriet e 



GRASMERE. 



PRINCE OF WALES' 

LAKE HOTEL 

i]RECTED EXPRESSLY FOR A HOTEL, ON THE MARGIN OF 
THE LAKE, 

•id contains Public Dining and Drawing Eooms. Private 
;<ting Eooms. Large and Airy Bed-rooms. Billiard anc 
loking Eooms. Cannot be equalled for varied anc 
:' lutiful views, or as a central station for making dailj 
Excursions to all the principal Lakes and Mountains, 
.\Licli may be seen upon looking at the Maps in any of the 
_..a.ke Guide Books. The Prince of Wales and Suite during; 
tlieir tour in the Lake District made this Hotel their head- 
quarters, and made their daily excursions from it. 

Posting in all its branches. Mountain Ponies and 
Guides. Boats. 

-() ACHES AND OMNIBUSES TO ALL THE KAILWAYS 
AND LAKE STEAMEES. 

EDWAED BEOWNT, Proprietor. 

^..-K— Postal Address— GuA^MEUE, WESTMOEELAND. 



GUERNSEY. HARLECH. 43 

GUEENSEY. 




OLD GOVERNMENT HOUSE. 

GARDNER'S PRIVATE HOTEL. 

HIS establishment, being elevated above the town, commands a sea and panoramic 
view of all the Channel Islands. Visitors should be particular in mentioning the 
Old Government House." Table d'Hote. Terms on application. 

J. GARDNER, Proprietor. 

THE ISLAND OF GUEK:t^SEY. 
GARDNER'S 

ROYAL ^^^^ HOTEL, 

FAMILY d: COMMERCIAL HOUSE, ESPLANADE, GUERNSEY, 

'HIS Hotel is situated in the most commanding part of the Island, facing the 
spacious harbours and the approaches tliereto, also having a full front view of the 
jacent islands of Sark, Herm, Jersey, and Alderney. Visitors should be especially 
reful on landing to ask for the '* Royal." TahU d'Hote. 

GUERNSEY, CHANNEL ISLANDS. 

VICTORIA HOTEL, 

FAJVIILY AND COMMERCIAL. 

1HIS Hotel commands the finest sea Adew in the Island. The establish ed- 
reputation of this Hotel is the best guarantee that every attention is 
lid to the comfort of its Patrons. Hot and Cold Baths always ready, 
A MOdekate Fixed Tariff including Attendance. 

Table cVHdte at Six o'clock. 
A Porter in attendance on the arrival of Steamers. 

HARLECH, NORTH WALES. 

CASTLE HOTEL. 

'HE above Hotel, which has-been newly built and elegantly furnished with all the 
latest improvements conducive to comfort and health, is now ready for the recep- 
Dn of Visitors. It is situate opposite the Old Castle, and in the most picturesque 
irt of North Wales, in close proximity to Dolgelley, Barmouth, Festiniog, Snowdon, 
lanberis, Caraarvon, and other favourite resorts. 

Harlech possesses an excellent beach for bathing, within ar short distance of the 
otel, where bathing-machines are provided. 

Billiard Table by one of the best Makers. 
Post Horses a2;d Cars. First-class Stabling. 

W. J. LOVEGROVE, Proprietor. 



Tl 



44 HARROGATE HELENSBURGH HUNSTANTON ILFRACOMBE. || 

HARROGATE WELLS. 



TTISITORS to Harrogate will find many advantages in making their temporary residen 
^ at this Hotel, it being situated within three minutes' walk of the Sulphur ai^ 
Cheltenham Springs, seven minutes' walk from the Railway Station, and in the imm ^^ 
diate vicinity of the Public Baths, Concert Rooms, etc. The sheltered situation of tr^° 
Hotel makes it admirably adapted for Visitors in Spring and Autumn. Terms per day : 
Board and Lodgings, in Public Room, 6s. 6d. each ; Ditto ditto, in Private Room 
7s, 6d. each ; Private Sitting-Rooms, 3s. to 5s. each ; Attendance, Is. each. Bei 
charged extra if for less than three nights. Horse's Hay, 14s. per week. Boots ai 
Ostler extra. Billiard Room. Excellent Stabling for Hunters and Carriage Horse 
N.B. — No fees given to conductor to recommend this Hotel. 

HELENSBURGH. 

n^HE Finest Watering-Place in the West of Scotland. Trains and Boats to Loc 
J- Lomond and Trossachs, and Steamer every morning to Dunoon at 8.45, in time 1: 
meet the ** lona" for the Highlands by that most celebrated Route — Ardrishaig, Crira] 
and Oban, to Staffa and lona. The alterations and improvements at the QUEEN'' 
HOTEL are now completed, and the Suites of Apartments for Families cannot be su [ 
passed. The view of the Clyde and Lake is most magnificent. Tourists convenient] 
arranged. A magnificent Coffee-Room. Smoking and Billiard Room. 

All Charges strictly Moderate. 

Omnibuses and Carriages to all Steamers and Trains. 



A. WILLIAMSON, Proprietor. 



THE SANDRINGHAM HOTEL, 

HUNSTANTON. 

T^HIS Hotel is now open, and is replete with every Comj 

fort for the Convenience and Accommodation of Visitors 

Spacious Coffee-Eoom, Ladies' Drawing-Eoom, Billiard anc 

Smoking Eooms. Extensive Sea Views. Hot and Cold Baths 

The Hotel is within an hour's Drive of the Residence of H.R.H. th 
Prince of Wales. A. J. MUIR, Manager. 

ILFEACOMBE. 

ROYAL CLARENCE 

PAMILY AND COMMERCIAL HOTEL. 

"Deplete with every Home comfort. Spacious Ladies' Coffee^ 
-^^ Room. Moderate Charges. E. LAKE, Proprietor. 

First-Class Billiard-Room. Good Post Horses. 

Omnibus meets every Train. 
N,B. — General Coach Office and Delivery Agent. 



I INNELLAN INVERARAY. 45 

INNELLAN. 

ROYAL HOTEL. 

i^rOHN CLARK has TnTich pleasure in thanking his friends and the public for past 
n, favours ; having added largely to the former Hotel, which now makes it one of the 
^"jiargest and most Complete Hotels on the Firth of Clyde, and it will be his constant 
yndeavour, by strict personal superintendence, to make it one of the most Comfortable 
.^[otels for Families and Tourists. Boarding terms by day or week upon application. 
J he Hotel is unequalled for situation, being placed on an elevation near the Pier, and 
Commands one of the most magnificent views on the Firth of Clyde and the sur- 

Dunding scenery ; being enclosed by about three acres of ground, makes it quite 

rivate. 
Parties intending to proceed by the "lona" to Ardrishaig and the North would do 

^ell to ari'ive at the " Royal" the previous evening, not requiring to leave till 10 a.m. 

ext morning. 
During Summer, Steamers arrive and depart nearly every hour for all the different 

laces on the coast, and there is convenient access from Glasgow by Caledonian and 

,i''emyss Bay and Greenock and Ayrshire Railways daily, from Bridge Street and St. 

iuoch Stations, Glasgow. 

HOT AND COLD BATHS. I PRIVATE SEA BATHING. 

Carriages and Horses kept for Hire. Drives heautiful. 



ROYAL HOTEL RESTAURANT 

[Head of tJie Pier). 
LUNCHEaNS AND REFRESHMENTS ON THE SHORTEST NOTICE. 



INVERARAY. 

fl^RGYLL ARMS HOTEL. 



TNVEEARAY, at the head of Lochfyne, is one of the most 
*- desirable, as well as the most romantic and beautiful 
etreats for Tourists and Visitors. His Grace the DUKE of 
IRG-YLL kindly allows Parties staying at the Hotel the privi- 
ege of Walking or Driving through the Castle Grounds at all 
;imes. 

Gentlemen staying at the AEGYLL ARMS HOTEL can 
jJiave excellent SALMON and TROUT FISHING on the 
? Rivers Aray and Douglas, Free of Charge, 

Ponies kept for ascending Duniquoich Hill, 

D. MACPHERSON, Proprietor. 



46 



INVERNESS. 




i:n'veexess. 



fiO i Eloa 



Patronised hy their Royal Highnesses the Prince and Princess of Wak 

and other Members of the Royal Family, and hy most of the 

Nobility of Europe, 

"DAETIES travelling from South to ^N'orth, and vice versa, wi 
-* find this very large and handsome Hotel adjoining th 
Station, whereby they can arrive at, or depart from, the* Hot( 
under cover. The house was specially built for a Hotel, i 
elegantly furnished with all modern improvements, and contaic ' 
numerous suites of Private Kooms, including 

LADIES' AND GENTLEMEN'S COFFEE-ROOM, 

SMOKING-ROOMS, BILLIARD-ROOMS, BATE-ROOMS, d:c. 

Over 100 beds can be made up. 
Parties leaving this Hotel in the morning can go over th 
grand scenery along the Skye Eailway, or visit either LocL 
maree, Gairloch, Dunrobin, and Golspie, and return same day. 
Table d'Hote at 5.30 and 7.30. 
French, German, and Italian spoken. 
An Omnihus attends the Steamers, Posting, 



IXVERN'ESS. 



47 




INVERNESS. 

THE ROYAL HOTEL. 

Opposite the entrance to the Railway Station, 

r. S. Christie begs to solicit the attention of the travelling Public 
,0 the Royal Hotel, which has been greatly improved and enlarged, 
ind now comprehends, besides extensive First-class Bed -Room 
iccommodation, a SPACIOUS and LOFTY LADIES' and GENTLE- 
LIEN'S DINING SALOON, with handsome DRAWING-ROOM en 
;nite, and several elegant and handsomely furnished SUITES of 
RIVATE ROOMS ; also SMOKING-ROOM, HOT, COLD and 
5HOWER BATH ROOMS, etc. 

Though immediately opioosite and within a few yards of the 
Railway Station entrance, the Hotel is entirely removed from the 
Dustle, noise, and other disturbing influences which usually affect 
;h*e comfort of Hotels situated in close proximity to the Railway. 

Tal)le d'Hote at 5.30 and 7.30. 

The Porters of the Hotel await the arrival of all trains, and an 
3mnibus attends the Caledonian Canal Steamers. Posting. 



48 INVERNESS ISLE OP WIGHT. 

INVERNESS. 

CALEDONIAN HOTEL 

(Two minutes' walk from the Eailway Station). 

THIS well-known first-class Family Hotel, patronised by tt 
Royal Family and most of the Nobility of Europe, he 
recently undergone extensive additions and improvements, j 
large and elegant Dining-Saloon and Ladies' Drawing-Eoonj 
also a spacious Billiard and Smoking Room. 

In point of situation this Hotel is the only one in Invernes 
that commands a wide and extensive view of the Ness and th 
great glen of " Caledonia." 

Table d'Hotb Daily, and Dinners 1 la Carte. 

An Omnibus attends all the Canal Steamers. 

JOHN MENZIES, 

Proprietor, 

WHEN YOU ARE 

IN 

THE HIGHLANDS | 

VISIT I 

ISLE OF WIGHT— SHANKLIN. 

MADEIRA HOTEL, 

{On the Main Road from the Station to the Sea.) 

REPLETE with every Convenience. Cleanliness and Comfort ensuret 
Ladies' and Gentlemen's Coifee Rooms, Ladies' Drawing-roon 
Private Sitting Rooms, Billiards, Croquet Lawn. 

Terms Strictly Moderate. 

M. SHARP, Manageress. 



ISLE OF WIGHT JERSEY. 49 

ISLE OF WIGHT. 

THE MAEIHE HOTEL, 

PARADE, WEST COWES. 



JAMES DROVER, PROPRIETOR. 



PLEASANTLY SITUATED, FACING TEE SEA. 

The comfort of Visitors studied in every way. 
lf.B.— Board at low Rates during the Winter Months. 

ISLE OF WIGHT— SHANKLIN. 

HINTON'S ROYAL SPA HOTEL. 

{On the Esplanade^ directly facing the Sea.) 

Aspect south south-east. Well sheltered by surrounding cliffs. Tariff 
Dn application. Table-d'Hote at Seven o'clock. 

Drawing-room and Billiards for Families staying in the Hotel only. 

Pension — 10s. 6d. per Day. 

JERSEY. 

BRITISH HOTEL, 

FOR FAMILIES AND GENTLEMEN. ~ 

rPHIS Hotel enjoys an established reputation of more than fifty 
-L years, and affords Visitors every accommodation at moderate 
charges. 



50 JERSEY KENMORB. 

JERSEY.-STOPFORD HOTEL 

rriHIS first-class Hotel, situated in the best part of St. Heliers, has for up 
■*- wards of tMrty years been successfully conducted under the name of 

BREEDS BOARDING HOUSE. 

It has recently been altered, enlarged, and improved, and is now th< 
largest and b»est appointed Hotel in St. Heliers. 

The Dining Room can accommodate one hundred persons, and is lofty 
and well ventilated. 

The Ladies' Drawing Eoom is new and unequalled by any in the 
Channel Islands. ^* 

The Cuisine is perfect, and the Wines excellent. 

Table d'Hote every day at Six P.M. 

PRIVATE SITTING ROOMS, IF REQUIRED. 

Carriages of every desclaption at a moment's notice. 

Public and Private Dinners served in the best possible style. 

CHARGES MODERATE. 

For Tariff, etc. , apply to. ' E. BREE, Proprietor. 

KENMORE. 
PERTHSHIRE HIGHLANDS. 

BEEADALBANE HOTEL. 

THIS comfortable Hotel is picturesquely situated at the east end of Loch Tay, 
quite close to Taymouth Castle, the princely seat of the Earl of Breadalbane. 
From its central position, it forms an admirable point from which to make excur- 
sions to the historic and romantic scenes with which the district abounds, while its 
quiet and retired situation eminently suits it for the invalid a^d lover of nature. 

A large and commodious Billiard-room has been added to the Hotel. 

Visitors staying at the Hotel are allowed the privilege of fishing for Trout 
and Salmon in tUe river Lyon free — and in Lo,ch Tay foj a specified charge. 

Coaches run daily during the summer months to an4 froni Aberfeldy and 
Killin, and the Hotel *Bus awaits the arrival of the principal trains at 
Aberfeldy. There is a daily post to and from Aberfeldy and Killin. 

Letters and Telegrams for Apartments, Conveyances, &c., punctually 
attended to. 

N.B. — During the first four weeks of Salnion Fishing (1875) Gentlemen 
at this Hotel landed 244 Salmon, or an average of 10 salmon per day. 

W. MUNRO, Proprietor. 



KESWICK KILKEE. 5 1 

KESWICK. 
DERWENTWATER LAKE. 

THE BOEBOWDALE HOTEL, 

{Late ARMSTRONG'S) 

P-atronised by H.R.H. the Prince of Wales, Prince Arthur, and the 

Nobility of Great Britain. 

THE above large establishment is the only Hotel situated immediately 
at the head of Derwentwater, at the entrance of the picturesque Yale 
of Borrowdale, and commands the grandest views of the Lakes, Mountains, 
and Valleys of this, the most romantic, part of the Lake District. Parties 
visiting this Hotel may safely rely upon the best attendance and all the 
comforts of Home. 

An Omnibus meets all Trains at the Keswick Station, 
Posting in all its Branches, Mountain Ponies, experienced Guides, 
Boatmen, &c., and good Boating on the Lake. 

Fishing Free to those staying in the Motel. 

HOT, COLD, AND SHOWER BATHS. 

Parties Boarded by Day, Week, or Month, on the most reasonable terms. 

E. B. GOODFELLOW, Proprietor, . 



THE ENGLISH LAKES— SKIDDAW. 

FAMILY & COMMERCIAL TEMPERANCE HOTEL, 

KESWICK. 

(Fn the Centre of the Town, near the Banks, Post- Office, (S;c.) 
In connection Avith the above Hotel are to be had POST H0RSE5, MOUNTAIN 

PONIES, and GUIDES, on the shortest notice, to any part of the Lake District. 

Good and extensive Stabling, and Lock-np Coach-House. Also, a^large Hall,, 

luitable for Pie-Nic Parties, School Trips, or Excursion Parties. ■ 

N.B.—A Coach leaves the above Hotel every morning during thjC Season, at 10 

)'clock, for Butterniere, through Borrowdale, returning by way of Newlands, and 

irriving at Keswick at 6 p. m. J, GILLESPI]^^ Proprietor. 



KILKEE. 
KIILARNEY TO CONNEMARA, THE LOWER SHANNON, AND mm, 

MOORE'S HOTEL, KILKEE.— Tourists purposing to visit the delightful Scenery of 
the Western Coast are respectfully informed that this Establishment has been 
itted up in a style that will ensure them every comfort and accommodation. Every 
;xertion is used by the Proprietor to secui^e from each individual a confirmation of the 
'haracter his house bears. Tourists will find this to be the most convenient as well as 
nost interesting route from Killarney to Connemara, as, together with the grand and 
j-aried Coast Scenery in the immediate vicinity, the road leads by the stupendous CliflTs 
)f Moher, and the interesting Coast Driye by Black Head and Galway Bay. All. from. 
iillarney to Galway two days' journey. 

*w* Omnibuses attend the Steamer at Kilrush, and Public Cars convey from here 
o Ballyvaughan, and Steamer to Galway. 



52 KILLARNET. 

RAILWAY HOTEL, 

LAKES OF KILLAENEY, 

A DJOIISTS Lord Kenmare's Demesne, is witMn a few minutes' drive of 
■^ Boss Castle, and within easy distance of Miickross Abbey and Grounds, 
the Gap of Dunloe, and the other points of interest. It is the largest and 
most commodious in the Lake District, and possesses every comfort for the 
convenience of Tourists and Families. 

The Porters of the Hotel await the arrival of each train 
for the removal of luggage, etc. 

Boats, Carriages, Ponies, etc., with steady attendants, always ready 
for engagement. 

The Manager personally undertakes the formation of Excursion 
Parties, with a view to their comfort and economy. 

Table d'Hote at Half-past Six o'clock. 

The charges are fixed and moderate. All attendance charged in the BilL 
Further particulars will be furnished on application to 

G. J. CAPSEY, Manager. 

{Late Manager, ^ Westminster Palace Hotel, London.) 

KILLARNEY LAKES. 



Bij Her Most Gracious Majesty s Special Permission. 

THE EOYAL VICTOEIA HOTEL) 

Patronised by H.E.H. THE PEINCE OF WALES ; by H.KH. 

PRINCE ARTHUR, on his recent visit to Ireland ; and 

by the Royal Families of France and Belgium, &c. 



"TTIHIS Hotel is situated on the Lower Lake, close to the 

water's edge, within ten minutes' drive of the Railway 

Station, and a short distance from the far-famed Gap of Dunloe. 

TABLE D'HOTE DUEING THE SEASON. 

There is a Postal Telegraph Office in the Hotel. 
Hotel open throughout the year. Boarding terms from 1st Nov. to 1st May. 

JOHN O'LEARY, Proprietor. 



KILLARXEY LEAMINGTON LIMERICK. 53 

KILLAKXEY LAKES. 

THE MUCKROSS HOTEL. 

JOHX EOSS, Proprietor. 

IN the centre of the best scenery, as a glance at Map of Lake District will 
show, near the foot of Mangerton, Muckross Abbey, Tore Waterfall, 
close to the Lower and Middle Lakes, near the entrance to the far-famed 
Demesne of Muckross, to which free access is accorded. Charges extrcinely 
riwderate. Good Salmon and Trout fishing. 

Table d'Hote at 6.30 p.m. 

Hotel Omnibus and Porters attend all Trains. 

See that the ^Bus you enter hears Projrrietor's Xarae^ 

LEAMINGTON. 
MANOR HOUSE HOTEL, 

FOR Families and Gentlemen, beautifully situated in its own Grounds. 
AVithin 3 minutes' walk of North -AVestem and Great Western Stations. 
Cliarges very moderate. Elegant Coffee Boom for Ladies. Private Rooms en Suite. 
Spacious Billiard Eoom, Croquet Lawns, Archeiy Grounds, Pleasure 
Boats, etc. Special attention has been given to selections of the Wines, 
etc., quality and purity of which are guaranteed. Terms on Application. 
There is excellent Spring "Water on the Premises. 

WILLIAM WALSH, Maiiager. 

LEAMIXGTOX. 

THE REGENT HOTEL. 

A FIRST-CLASS FAMILY AND HUNTING ESTABLISHMENT: i 

FLYS AND OMNIBUS 

MEET ALL THE G. W. AND L. AND N. W. TRAINS. 

POSTING, &c. 

L. BISHOP, Pro2orietor. 

LIMERICK. 

CRUISERS ROYAL HOTEL, 

J. J. CLEARY, Proprietor. 

THIS long-established and well-known FIRST-CLASS HOTEL is now conducted under 
the sole superintendence of the Proprietor, and possesses everything requisite to pro- 
mote the comfort and convenience of the Xobilitt, Gentry, and Tourists, and affords 
particular facilities to Commercial Gentlemen, having first-rate Show-Rooms, together 
with Moderate Charges. 

Omnibuses attend all Trains, Steamers, etc. etc. etc. ; also a 'Bus attends the Night 
Mails for the convenience of Gentlemen coming bv the late Trains. 

A^^.— This is the PRINCIPAL HOTEL IN THE CITY, and is capable of accom- 
modating over 150 persons, together with a splendid Suite of Drawing-Rooms. 
HOT, COLD, AND SHOWER BATHS. 
Caution. — This is the only Hotel in the City called The Royal Hotel. 



LIVERPOOL. 




COMPTON HOTEL, 

CHURCH STREET, LIYERPGOL. 

ONE of tlie most elegant, commodious, and economical Hotels in England, 
for a description of which the Proprietor begs to refer to a graphic 
account of his establishment which appeared in the Liverpool Mercury, 
from which he has freely quoted the following passages : — 

Having passed the handsomely carved mahogany doors, the visitor finds himself in 
a capacious vestibule, 15 feet wide, supported by Sienna Marble Columns, all the walls 
being painted in corresponding colours. 

The BILLIARD ROOM, situated on the ground floor, is furnished with eleven 
handsome new tables, and so seated that the spectator can witness any one or all of 
the games in progress. 

The RESTAURANT or LUNCHEON ROOM, in the furnishing and decoration of 
which no expense has been spared, is supported by handsome marble columns, and 
tastefally panelled and painted in warm and cheerful tints. 

The COFFEE ROOM, which is 40 feet square, is beautifully furnished in mahogany, 
and is suited to the most fastidious taste. 

The LADIES' DRAWING ROOM, 30 feet by 20 feet, is, perhaps, the most beauti- 
ful apartment in the Hotel, the furniture being Walnut, upholstered in the richest 
Maroon-coloured Utrecht Velvet. 

The COMMERCIAL ROOM, 50 feet by 30 feet, has all the necessary arrangements 
for Commercial Gentlemen to carry on their correspondence or to meet their customers, 
and Special Arrangements for the Display of Goods have been made in rooms 
prepared and fitted for the purpose. 

On the first floor of the Hotel are TEA, WRITING, and SMOKING ROOMS. 

The BED ROOMS are furnished either in Mahogany or Walnut, and nothing but 
Brussels Carpet has been used. These rooms have been so arranged that several can be 
used with an adjoining Sitting Room, as a SUITE OF APARTMENTS, or may be indi- 
vidually occupied and completely shut off from each other. 

The SANITARY ARRANGEMENTS have received the fullest attention, and are of 
the most complete and satisfactory kind. 

The FURNITURE, LINEN, EARTHENWARE, and PLATE, have all been made' 
expressly for this Hotel at a cost of many thousand pounds. 

In short, in the Fittings and Decorations of the house no expense has been spared 
to secure the Comfort of the Guests, and to invest the Hotel with the character of A 

TTomG. — TAvPvnnnl Drn'lv Mp.rmi.rii Tiprpnmhpr 'XMh 1 RT^ 



LINCOLN LLANDUDNO LLANGOLLEN LOCH AWE. 55 

LINCOLN. 

SAKACEN'S HEAD HOTEL. 

THIS, the Oldest, Largest, and Principal Family and Commercial Hotel 
and Posting House in the City, is the most Central, and replete with 
every Comfort, at Moderate Charges. Foreigners can obtain here every 
information respecting this far-famed Agricultural County. 

Hearses, Mourning Coaches, Waggonettes, Broughams> &e., with first-class Horses. 
Hunters for Sale. Carriage Manufactory. Ladies' Coflee Room. 

N.B. — A New Wing has been built to this Hotel ; also seveml New Boxes for 
Horses. Omnibuses, painted Yellow, meet every Train-. 

L. T. THOENTON, Proprietor. 

LLANDUDNO. 

THE IMPERIAL FAMILY HOTEL. 

THIS beautiful Hotel stands in one of the most desirable spots in Llandudno, 
commanding a view of the entire Bay, the Great and the Little Orme, the 
Irish Channel, and the Snowdonian Kange. The Hotel, Avhich is elegantly 
furnished, is the favourite resort of the leading Families of the Kingdom, and 
all modern improvements have been adopted in the arrangements. An Omni- 
bus awaits the arrival of all trains. Excellent Stabling, etc. : 

Tariff on application. JOHN CHANTREY, Proprietor. 



LLANGOLLEN. 

EDWARDS^ HAND HOTEL. 

THE ''HAND/' 

Unequalled for the Beauty of its Situation on the Panics vfthe Dee. 

Several Bed-Rooms and Sitting-Rooms have been added to the House to 

suit the requirements of Families visiting this delightful Neighbourhood. 

HOT, COLD, AND SHOWER BATHS. BILLIARDS. 



Omnibuses from this Hotel meet all Trains at Llangollen Station. 



LOCH AWE, ARGYLESHIRE, PORT SOMACHAN HOTEL. 

rpHOMAS CAMERON begs to intimate that the above Hotel, of which he has taken 
J- a lease, is Now Open, after having been rebuilt on a new site commanding a mag- 
nificent view of the Lake. It contains Public Rooms, Private Parlours, and upwards 
of twenty Bedrooms, which have all been newly furnished in a superior manner through- 
out. The Trout Fishing in Loch Awe is free, and is not surpassed in Scotland. Anglers 
will find first-class boats, with experienced boatmen, always in attendance. The Hotel, 
which is the principal one on the banks of the Lake, is situated 13 miles from Inveraray^ 
Dalmally 10, Tyndrum 22, Oban 20. Steamer passes and re-passes daily during Summer! 
Passengers by the Steamer can break their journey at Port Sonachan, and resume 
it again with the same ticket. 

A Coach runs between Dalmally Station and Port Sonochan during the Season. 
Horses and Conveyances kept for Hire. 

DAILY POST VIA INVERARAY. 



56 LOCHEIRNHEAD — LOCHLOMOND. 

LOCH EAEN HEAD. 

LOCH EARN HEAD HOTEL 

BALQUHIDDER, PERTHSHIRE 

12 miles by rail from Callander. 

{Under Royal Patronage. Twice visited ly the Queen) 
rnillS Hotel has excellent accommodation for Families and Touristii 
with every comfort and quiet, lies high and drj^ and charminglj 
sheltered at the foot of the Wild Glen Ogle (the Kyber Pass). It coni 
mands fine views of the surrounding Hills and Loch, the old Castle c 
Glenample, the scenery of the Legend of Montrose, in the neighbourhoo 
of Ben Yoirlich, Eob Eoy's Grave, Loch Toil, Loch Doine, and Loch Lul 
naig, with many fine drives and walks. Posting and Carriages for Hirf 
Boats for Fishing and Eowing free: A 'Bus to and from the Hotel for th 
- Trains during Summer. 

Coaches to and from CriefiF daily in Summer. 
R. DAYTO:^. 

LOGHLOHiOND. 

TARBET HOTEL, 

(OPPOSITE BEN-LOMOITD) 

A. H. MCPHERSON, Proprietor, 

TS the finest and most commodious Hotel on the Lake, and command 
-^ the best Yiew of Ben-Lomond. 

Coaches direct for the far-famed Glencroe, Inverary, and Oban, wil 
commence running early in June. 

Tourists en route for Trossachs and Callander can leave per IQ.l 
A.M. Steamer, next morning, in connection with the Steamer down Loci 
Katrine. 

Small Boats on the Lake, and Guides to Ben-Lomond, to be had at th 
Hotel. 

May 1877. 



LOCH LOMOND. 57 

Under New Management. 

HEAD OF LOCH LOMOND. 

ARDLUI HOTEL. 

' One Minute's Wall: from the Pier. 

I 'HIS is the only landing-place on the Lake for the Coaches to Glencoe, Ballachulish, 
Fort-William, &;c., in connection with the Railway at Crianlarich to Killin, 
Oallander, &c. Also a starting-point for the Dalmally and Oban Coaches, all of which 
tart daily from the Hotel during the season, where seats can be secured and all inform- 
-tion supplied. Parties intending to proceed by either of the above routes would do 
veil to be at Ardlui Hotel the previous evening, so as to secure seats. Parties staging 
vX this Hotel can visit the Trossachs and return same day. Parties arranged with by 
' he Week or Month. Four arrivals and departures of Steamboats to and from Ardlui daily 
(luring the season. Good Fishing on the Falloch and Loch Lomond, free. Boats, 
md Posting in all its Branches. Comfortable and airy Bed-Rooms, with Moderate 
Charges. j) SINCLAIR, Proprietor. 

LOCHLOMOND. 

BALLOGH HOTEL, FOOT OF LOCHLOMOND. 

THE above first-class Hotel is beautifully situated at the foot of the " Queen of Scottish 
Lakes," and at an easy distance froni the Railway Station. Visitors will have every 
3omfort, combined with moderate charges. Parties purposing to proceed by first 
Steamer up Lochlomond would do well to arrive at the Hotel the jDrevious evening. 

Visitors staying at this Hotel have the pri^'ilege of going through the Grounds and 
Flower Gardens of Sir James Colquhoun, Bart., and Mr. Campbell of Tillyehewan, and 
lave permission to visit " Mount Miseiy," which commands 17 miles of the most beauti- 
ful portion of Lochlomond — 23 islands being comprised in the view. Excellent Trout 
ind Salmon Fishing. Posting in all its branches. Boats for the Lake. 

GEORGE M 'DOUG ALL, Proprietor. 

LOCHLOMON^ 

INYERSNAID HOTEL is situated in the most central and picturesque 
parts of the banks of Loclilomond, and is the landing- jjlace for tourists 
and others visiting the delightful scenery of Loch Katrine, the Trossachs, 
Clachan of Aberfoyle, &c. Coaches and other conveyances are always in 
readiness for parties crossing to the Stronachlachar Hotel, for the Steamer 
plying on Loch Katrine from Coalbarns Pier to the Trossachs. 

R. BLAIE, Proprietor. 

iLOGH LOi©ii, LOSS HOTEL. 

KOBERT MrNAB. 

Posting. Pleasure Boats. Fishjng Free. 

TNCHTAYANACH and the STEONE BEAE command the 
^-*- most extensive, magnificent, and picturesque prospects of 
this, the far-famed 

"QUEEN OF SCOTTISH LAKES." 



58 LOCHLOMOND LOCH MAREE — LOCH TAY. 

LOCHLOMOND. 

EOWAEDENNAN HOTEL, 

Foot of Ben Lomond. 

T> .^'ABRATT begs to return his sincere thanks to Tourists and others who have 
■^* kindly patronised him for the last nine years. Visitors will find this Hotel clei 
and comfortable, with every attention. Howardennan is the best and shortest road 
Ben Lomond, and the only place where Guides and Ponies can be had, by which parti 
can ride with ease and safety to the top, the distance being only four miles to the ve 
summit. 

The Loch Lomond Steamers call at Rowardennan "Wharf six times a day on thti 
route up and down the Loch. — May i87t. 

LOCH MAEEE HOTEL, 

ROSS-SHlEE, 

(in connection with Mr. Hornshys Gairloch Hotel.) 

npHE accommodation and comforts of this fine Hotel, whia. 

occupies the most beautiful site on Loch Maree — opposite th 

Islands, with Sliugach, 4000 feet, on the further shore — renders i^ 

a charming summer resort for Sportsmen, Tourists, and Familiejj 

Visitors have the privilege of Fishing on the^ Loch, which abounds i 
sea-trout and salmon, besides the native fish, which run to a large size. 

In the Posting Department are Horses and Carriages of superior dt 
scrip tion. There are frequent excursions to Gairloch and the scenery c 
Glen Torridon ; and the mail coaches plying between Gairloch Hotel au' 
Achnasheen (Dingwall and Skye Railway) pass the Hotel twice daily i: 
summer. 

Table-d'Hote at 5 p.m. Daily, or shortly after arrival of Coach. 
Orders for Conveyances, Coach Seats, or Apartments, carefully attended to. 

\st June 1877. JAMES & ROBERT HORNSBY. 

LOCH TAY— PERTHSHIRE. 

BEN LAWERS HOTEL. 

THIS Hotel has been largely added to and refurnished, offers first-clasi 
accommodation to Tourists and Visitors. The Mountain, which ii 
easy of ascent, is unequalled for the forest Alpine plants. Parties wishing 
to ascend with ponies should give notice the day previous. Salmon anc 
Trout Fishing in the Loch. Trout fishing free. Coaches in connectior 
with this Hotel to and from Killin, Kenmore, and Aberfeldy daily 
Telegrams or letters for Boats, Coach-seats, Apartments, and Private Con 
veyances, strictl}^ attended to. 

JAMES ANDERSON, Proprietor^ 



LONDON. 59 

LONDON. 

UPPER NORWOOD. 

NEAR THE CRYSTAL PALACE. 

THE QUEEN'S HOTEL. 

T^HIS unique establishment stands unriVaU'ed for the exquisite 
picturesqueness and beauty of its situation ; its command- 
ag and central position ; and the commodiousness and complete- 
ess of its general arrangements. Delicate persons, to whom a 
^ght bracing air, charming scenery, close vicinity to the Crystal 
palace and its amusements, and quiet seclusion, would be an 
ivaluable boon, will find, in this establishment, their wishes 
ally realised. It is built on a dry gravelly soil, and stands at 
(n elevation of 390 feet above the level of the sea, and is sur- 
ounded by several acres of its own pleasure-grounds and 
astures. 

There are Wings detached from the main building for the 
ccommodation of Families and their suites. Wedding Breakfast 
larties, &c. The establishment also has its own Dairy, Home- 
lade Bread, Kitchen Garden, &c. The Stabling Department 
3 large and complete, and is provided with an ample number of 
Dck-up Coach-houses. 

SPECIAL NOTICE OF WINTER ARRANGEMENTS AND TERMS 

AT THE ABOVE HOTEL 

I 

The Patrons of this establishment are respectfully informed that 
j'ourists, Families, and others are received on most reasonable terms for the 
Vinter months — which season has many enjoyments for Visitors at the 
^ui:en's Hotel, owing to its elevated, dry, and salubrious situation, and 
ts convenient vicinity to the Crystal Palace and the Winter Garden, 
whilst it commands by Eail easy access to the West End, the City, &c. 
Lpplication for terms and other information to be addressed to the Managek. 



60 LONDON LTNTON {olsO f. 63). 

THE 

HOLBORN EESTATJEANTi 

218 HIGH HOLBORN. 

ONE OF THE SIGHTS AND ONE OF THE COMFORTS OF LONDON. 

Attractions of tlie Chief Parisian Establishments, with the quiet and 
order essential to English Customs. 

DINNERS AND LUNCHEONS FROM DAILY BILL OF FARE. 

A TABLE D'HOTE, AT SEPARATE TABLES, EVERY EVENIN 

In the Grand Salon, the PiiiNCE's Salon, and the Duke's Salon, 

From 6 to 8.30, 3s. 6d., including 

TWO SOUPS, TWO KINDS OF FISH, TWO ENTREES, JOINTS, SWEETS, 
CHEESE (IN VARIETY), SALAD, &c., WITH ICES AND. DESSERT. 

This favourite Dinner is accompanied by a Selection of high-class 
Instrumental Music. 

THE DEVONSHIRE HOUSE HOTEI 

12 BISHOPGATE STREET WITHOUT, E.G. 

HENRY G. CHALKLEY, Proprietor. 

THIS New First-class TEMPER ANCE and FAMILY HOTEL, now open to the PuK 
the best of the kind in the Metropolis, is fitted with eveiy modern improveme 
and offers great advantages to Visitors for its excellent position, being in one of ' 
best parts of the City, and two minutes' walk from the North London, London a 
North- Western, Great Eastern, and Metropolitan Railway Stations in Liverpool Stre 
and five minutes' walk from the Midland and Great Northern Railway Stations in Mc 
gate Street and Bank. Splendid Public Rooms, and a spacious Room for holding Pul' 
Meetings. The private Sitting Rooms, with lofty Bedrooms en suite, are replete w 
every home comfort. Moderate Charges and first-class attention. Reduced char 
during the Winter, and liberal arrangements made with Visitors staying a lengtheil 
period. A Niglit Porter for late Trains. Address E. CESARI, Manager. 

LYNTON, NORTH DEVON. 

THE VALLEY OF ROCKS HOTEL 

THIS favourite and beautifully situated Hotel, which has lately had extensive alt 
ations, additions, and improvements, combines with moderate charge all necessj 
means for the accommodation and comfort of Families and Tourists. The splen( 
Table d'Hote and Coffee-Room, Reading-Rooms, Ladies' Drawing-Room, and seve 
private Sitting Rooms, range in a long front overlooking the sea, and looking into 1 
extensive private grounds of the Hotel. Here the visitor commands uninterrupl 
views of the Bristol Channel, the Tors, and the Valleys of the East and West Lyn: 
and the Coast of South Wales, &c. The Hotel is also most conveniently situated a 
centre for visiting all the places of interest in the district. 
Post Horses and Carriages. 

JOHN CROOK, Proprietor, I 



MALVERN. 



61 




MALVERN. 

THE IMPERIAL HOTEL, 

RAILWAY STATION, GREAT MALYERN. 

Cms Hotel contains upwards of one hundred Bedrooms, Drawing- 
Rooms, Bed and Dressing Roouqs and Closets en suite ^2. Ladies' 
offee-Room, a Gentlemen's Coffee-Room, Table d'Hote, Reading and 
illiard Rooms, etc. etc. 

Of Great Malvern — the salubrity of the air and the purity of the 
•ater, its invigorating effects in summer and winter, and the beauties of 
ie place — it is superfluous to speak. As a winter residence, also, the 
ryness and high temperature of Malvern are shown by conclusive and 
•ustworthy testimony, and are confirmed by comparative .tables of 
inters in other localities. 

The new Stables belonging to the Company are now open, and corn- 
rise first-class accommodation for Horses and Carriages. Carriages, 
J addle-horses, and Flies may be had at tlie Hotel. 

A covered way conducts the visitor from the railway station to the 
[otel. ^ 

' Porters attend every train, to convey passengers' luggage to the Hotel. 
, To meet the wishes of numerous visitors to the Hotel, the Proprietors 
ave decided to take Ladies and Gentlemen as Boarders during the 
3ason, on the terms stated in the tariff, which will be forwarded upon 
pplication. 



62 



MANCHESTER (mAREE, LOCH, See p. 58). 




MANCHESTER. 

KNOWSLEY HOTEL, 

CHEETHAM HILL ROAD, 

Only a few minutes^^ ivalk from Victoria Railway Station^ 

Will be found by Travellers who appreciate Good and Loft^ 
Rooms, and Qnjoy the Quietude and Comfort which the noin 
part of th^ City cannot offer, a very acceptable house. 

Omnibuses to all parts of the City pass the door 
every few minutes, 

J. B. BRENMEHL, Proprietor 



LYNTON MELROSE. 6 3 

LYNTON, NORTH DEVON. 

'HE ROYAL CASTLE FAMILY HOTEL. 

Patronised by H.R.H. the Prince of Wctles and other Members of 
the Royal Family. 

^HE above Hotel is beautifully situated in its own grounds, comprising 

- over twelve acres, laid out for the recreation of visitors, and commands 
LB finest views of the Bristol Channel, the South Wales Coast, Valleys of 
le East and West Lynns, &c. &c. 

In connection with this Hotel, and in the same extensive grounds, is a 
dvate Hotel and Boarding House, also replete with every comfort and 
■nvenience for families visiting this romantic neighbourhood. The Hotel 
within easy distance of all places of interest in the vicinity, and has 
ien recently enlarged to meet the progressive increase of patronage. 

jw and Elegant CoflFee Booms. Post Horses and Carriages of eveyy description. 

Coaches in the Seasooi to Barnstaple and Ilfracomle. 

THOMAS BAKER, Proprietor. 

MELROSE. 

THE AiiEV HOTEL, AiBEf iATE. 

1HIS is the only Hotel which is built on the Abbey Grounds, at the 

- entrance to the far-famed ruins of Melrose Abbey. An extensive 
.dition having been built to the Establishment, consisting of Private 
tting Rooms, Bedrooms, etc. etc., it is now the largest Hotd in Melrose, 
d only two minutes' walk from the Railway Station. 

First-class Horses and Carriages to Abbotsford and Dryburgh Abbey. 
An Omnibus attends all trains to convey Visitors' Luggage to and from 

® ^^*^^- GEORGE HAMILTOI^, Pkophietor. 



MELROSE, CLEAVER'S KING'S ARMS HOTEL 

.rriages of every description for Hire. An Omnibus a^ttends every Train 
Free of Charge. 

)'ne-Horse Carriage to Ahhotsford and hack, 6s. Qd. Do. to DryhurgJi and hack, 7s. 6d. 

nners, Luncheons, &c., promptly provided on the Arrival of the Tr^ui^. 



64 MELROSE MOFFAT MUMBLES NORWICH. 

M E L E S E. 

GEORGE AND ABBOTSFORD HOTEL 

is now Enlarged and Improved, with Ladies' Drawing-Room, Smokinf 
Rooms, Billiard-Rooms, and all the latest improvements of a First-cla. 
Hotel, while the Charges are not more than minor Hotels. Being onl 
two minutes' walk from the Station, the same from the Abbey, it is there 
fore convenient for Strangers visiting Melrose. 
March 30, 1877. 

IVIOFFAT SPA. 

AHNANDALE AEMS HOTEI 

ROBERT NORRIS, Proprietor. 

Tourists and Visitors to this famous watering-place will find at the Annandale Arni 
Hotel llrst-class accommodation, combined with Moderate Charges. Commercial Ge 
tlemen will find every attention to their convenience and interests. Omnibuses me^ 
the Trains at Beattock Station. A Summer Excursion Omnibus runs along tl 
route — passing " Craigieburn Wood," Bodesbeck, Grey Mare's Tail, to St.iMary's Loa 
each Tuesday and Saturday. Omnibuses ply to the Well every morning. Carriages 
all kinds. Job and Post Horses on Hire. A first-class Billiard Room on the Premise 

MUMBLES, SOUTH WALES. 

SHIP AND CASTLE HOTEL 

THAMILIES and Tourists visiting the Mumbles will find 
-■- the above Hotel comfortable Accommodation combine 
with Moderate Charges. 

Miss PHILLIPS, Proprietress. 

NOEWICH. 

"LIVINGSTONE" (FIRST-CLASS TEMPERANCE) HOTEL- 

The Most Noble the Marquis Townshend, after staying at the ''Livingstone" Hot( 
gave the following Testimonial: — "Dec. 22d, 1875. — I beg to recommend the 'Livin 
stone' Hotel as an establishment extremely well conducted. The accommodation 
excellent, and the Charges very reasonable. In every respect the Hotel is all that c; 
be desired. TOV/NSHEND." 

Opinioisis of the Press. — " In all respects a first-class Temperance Hotel." — Norfc 
Chronicle. " One of the most commodious, clean, and comfortable Hotels in the Easte 
Counties." — Norwich Free Press. 

Good Stahles and Stock Ronms. 

EDWARD BURGESS, Proprietor. 



NAIRN. 



65 




MARINE HOTEL, 



NAIRN, 

" The Brighton of the North." 
Under the same Management as Station Hotel, Inverness. 

FIRST-CLASS HOTEL for Families and Tom-ists, and Boarding 
- Establishment. The house was specially buil t for a Hotel, and has under- 
ne a thorough and extensive repair, and is newly and elegantly furnished 
the most modern style, and contains numerous suites of Private Rooms, 
eluding Ladies' and Gentlemen's Dining Saloon with Drawing-Room; also 
Qoking Room, Billiard Room, &c. Over Seventy Beds can be made up. 

The Climate of Nairn is well known to be the best in Scotland, and is 
coming yearly more and more a favourite resort of the tapper Classes 
d Tourists from all parts of the Kingdom. It is also in high repute with 
e leading Physicians of the Country, who invariably recommend their 
.tients in increasing numbers to secure the benefits of the dry and bracing 
c of the district. 

Superior Hot and Cold Salt Water Baths in the Hotel. 
AN OMNIBUS AWAITS THE ARRIVAL OF ALL TRAINS. 

ts hranches vnll he, done in first-class style, and will he 
carefully attended te. 

JOHN MACDONALD, Propeietoe, 

AND Lessee of Station Hotel, In\'£rness. 
E 



66 NORTH BERWICK. 

NORTH BERWICK. 

ROYAL HOTEL. 

THE MOST FASHIONABLE AND FUsTEST MARINE SITUATIO 
IN SCOTLAND. 

rriHIS extensive and commodious erection, recently bu 
-*- for a First-Class Family Hotel, replete with all mode 
appliances, is one of the most complete Provincial Hotels 
the Kingdom. I 

Families, &c.. Boarded per Day or Week on Moderate TerD 

Apartments ''En Suite." 

Ouisine under the superintendence of a First-Qlass man Cook. 

The Golfing Links are adjacent to the Hotel, and t 

Bass Rock, Tantallon Castle, &c. &c., are at short Distances 

The Walks and Drives are varied arid interesting. 

CHAS. JOHNSTON, Proprietor, 

MARINE HOTEL, 

NORTH BERWICK. 

(One Hour by Bail from Edinburgh.) 

THIS NEW FIRST-CLASS FAMILY HOTEL, 
Acknowledged to he one of the most Comfortable Residences 
Scotland, is open all the Year round. It stands within its own Grounc 
close to the Favourite Golfing Links, and commands Magnipice 
Views of the varied scenery of the Firth of Forth, including i^. 
Bass Rock, the May, and other islands. 

The attractions of this Fashionable Marine Resort have he 
increased since Last Season by the great extension and improveme 
of the Golfing Links. 

Numerous Suites of Apartments and Single 

moderate charges. Spacious Public Rooms. He 

Douche, Fresh and Salt Water Baths ; also Medicat 

premises. Good Stabling and Omnibus to meet the 

Tarifif on application to J. MSPHIUS, 1^ 



OBAN. 



67 




CAMPBELL'S 

)ALEDONIAN HOTEL 

OBAN. 

{UNDER NEW MANAGEMENT.) 

pHIS LAEGE AND COMMODIOUS FIEST-CLASS 

HOTEL has just undergone extensive Additions and 

nprovements. It has been furnished anew in a most 

« mdsome and elegant style, rendering it the finest and most 

.mfortable Hotel in TOWN and WEST HIGHLANDS. 

BILLIARD ROOM. 

ALEXANDER CAMPBELL, 

PraprieUir and Manager. 



68 OBAN. 

OBAN. 

GREAT WESTERN HOTE) 

BEAUTIFULLY SITUATED. 



TjimST-CLASS. This well-known Hotel has bee 

recently enlarged and improved. It is noi 

replete with every comfort and convenience. 

J. CAMPBELL, 

Proprietres 



OBAN. 



THE ALEXAN DRA 

PIEST-CLASS HOTEL, 

ON THE ESPLANADE. 



I 



T G. MACARTHUR having now finished the large addition 
* to his Hotel, begs to inform his Patrons and the Publ 
generally that the Alexandra is now one of the most comple 
Hotels in Scotland ; and that it will ever be his constaa 
endeavour, by personal superintendence, to make it one of tl 
most comfortable. 



OBAN {see also page 70) — oxfoed. 



69 




BAN— CRAIG- ARD HOTEL — R. MACLAUEIN, Proprietor, 
)TJEISTS and Strangers visiting the West Highlands will find that, whether as re- 
gards Situation, Comfort, or Accommodation' combined with Moderate Charges, 
s elegant Hotel, built expressly for summer Visitors, cannot be surpassed, while it 
nmands an extensive view of the beautiful Bay of Oban and other romantic scenery 
the neighbourhood. The Hotel is situated on an elevated plateau near the Steam- 
it Wharf, to which a new and convenient approach has been lately added. The 
aes and Cuisine are of the first quality. French and German spoken. Table d'H6te 
ly. Apartments may be engaged by the week at a reduced scale. 

OXFORD. 

In the Best and most Central part of the Gity» 

RANDOLPH HOTEL 

Opposite Martyrs^ Memorial, and surrouiided hy the Principal Colleges) 

OXFORD. 
FIRST-CLASS ACCOMMODATION. ' 

CHARGES MODERATE. 

HANDSOME COFFEE-ROOM FOR LADIES. 

BILLIARD-ROOMS, BATHS, &c. &o. 
GOOD STABLING, LOOSE BOXES, &c. 

Miss I'ANSON, Manageress. 



70 



OBAN PENZANCE. 



THE GRAND HOTEL, 

OBAN. 

rpHIS New First-class Hotel has been erected upon the grandest site which this fam 
-^ Scottish Watering-Place affords, and commands an unsurpassed view of Highlj 
magnificence. It has been elegantly furnished, and will be found replete with ev 
comfort and convenience ; and from the Proprietor's extensive experience in Engla 
and latterly for ove*- seven years as Chef-de-Cuisine in the Western Club, Glasg( 
visitors are sure to find this Establishment in harmony Avith its scenic surroundings. 
Conveyance awaits Steamers and Coaches. Telegrams for Rooms jjromp 
attended to, 

C. H. FOX, Proprieto', 




PENZANCE-SEA-SIDE. 

QUEEN'S HOTEL. 

{On the Esplanade.) 
Patronised by H. M. the Queen of Holland. 

THIS magnificent Hotel has recently been greatly enlarged, entirely re-arranged, ai 
handsomely furnished, having a frontage of over 170 feet, all the rooms of wh« 
overlook the sea. It is the only Hotel that commands a full and uninterrupted view- 
Mount's Bay. Penzance stands unrivalled for the variety and quiet beauty of its scener 
whilst the mildness of its climate is admirably adapted to invalids. Apartments i 
suite. Ladies' Coffee-Room. Billiard-Room. Hot and Cold Baths. An Omnibus mee 
every train. Posting in aU its branches. Yachts, &c. I 

HENRY BLACKWELL, Propnetor. 



PEN2ANCE :E'ERTH. 7 1 

PENZANCE. 

Seaside Family Hotel and Superior Lodging-House. 

MOUNTS BAY HOUSE,^ 

ON THE ESPLANADE. 

NO expense or labour has been spared by tlie Proprietor. The house is 
furnished in the most modem stjde, is well supplied with Hot and Cold 
Jaths, and re])lete with every accommodation suitable for Tourists to West 
/ornwall. All the Drawing-Rooms command an uninterrux>tcd and unsur- 
nssed A^iew of St. Michael's Mount, and the whole of the magnificent bay. 
ivalids will find in MOUNT'S BAY HOUSE the comforts of a home, 
hile the beauty and salul)rity of the situation, and its nearness to the 
harming walks on the Sea-shore, render it a healthy and delightful resi- 
ce. 

Suites of Apartments for Families of Distinction, 

POST HORSES AND CAEBIAGES, YACHTS AND PLEASUllE 
BOATS, ON SHORTEST NOTICE. 

CHARGES MODERATE, 

:Jus. EDWAPD LAVJN, Pkoj>kiet«ess. 



PEKTH. 

THE ROYAL GEORGE HOTEL 




BY SPECIAL ^ V^^lls!Mt^^i4;:X -=- APPOINTMENT. 



M"E. KENNEDY begs to intimate that the Royal George Hotel 
^^ having been recently greatly enlarged and improved, Families, 
Tourists, Commercial Gentlemen, and Visitors, will find the Hotel 
■eplete with every Comfort. 

The Queen's Room, Commercial Room, Private Parlours, and 
Bed-Rooms, will be found of the most approved modern style, and 
he Ladies' and Gentlemen's Saloon is both elegant and complete. 

pie situation is the best in town, and Omnibuses run to suit all trains. 

Charges strictly Moderate, sand Attendance charged in the Bill. 

.^.B.--A Magnificent Billiard Saloon, the best in Scotland in 
oonnection with a Hotel, has just been added. 



72 PERTH— EIPON — ROTHESAY. 

PERTH. 
HEITRY'S QUEEN'S HOTEL 

Opposite the GS-eneral Railway Station, 



THAT IS THE HOUSE TO GO TO. 



PERTH. 

POPLE'S ROYAL BRITISH HOTEL 

(Opposite the General Station). 

Patronised hy their Royal Highnesses the Prince and Princess of Wales. 
Prince and. Princess Christian, Prince Arthur, and other Members Oj 
the Royal Family, and the leading Nobility of the Kingdom. 

THIS Family Hotel has long stood pre-eminent ; and the Proprieto] 
would remark that the same care and unremitting attention, whicl 
are universally acknowledged by all who have patronised him, it will b( 
his constant study to continue. 

RIPON, FOUNTAINS ABBEY. 

UNICORN HOTEL AND POSTING HOUSE. 

Patronised by H.R.H. PRINCE of WALES. 

ONE of the Oldest Established Hotels in the North of England, anc 
the principal in Ripon. To meet requirements it has been latel) 
much enlarged and improved. 

Orders by Post punctually attended to, 

H. E. COLLINSON, Wine and Spirit Merchant, Proprietor, 

ROTHESAY- ^^ WEST BAY. 
QTJBEN^S ^^W^^ HOTEL. 

Established Twenty Years. 
Five Minutes' Walk from the Quay on the Esplanade, 

WM. M. WHYTE begs to announce that the extensive alterations and additions to 
this Old-Established and First-class Hotel are complete, comprising a magnifi- 
cent Dining-Saloon (one of the finest in Scotland), Ladies' Drawing-Room, elegant 
Sitting-Rooms, Smoking-Room, Bath-Rooms, and over Forty Bed-Rooms— all furnished 
in the most modern style. Beautiful Gardens and Pleasure-G rounds. 
Letters and Telegrams punctually attended to. 
PARTIES BOARDED BY THE WEEK OR MONTH. 
AM?.— Headquarters of the Royal Northern Yacht Club are in connection with 
the Hotel. 



t>iTLOCHilIE. 



73 




PITLOCHRIE. 




FIRST-CLASS FAMILY HOTEL 

AND 

POSTING ESTABLISHMENT. 



PARTIES wishing to see the magnificent Scenery in this part of the 
Scottish Highlands will find this Hotel (to which large additions have 
een made) most convenient, for in One Drive they can visit the 

Palls of Tummel, the Queen's View of Loch Tummel ; 

The Far-Pamed Pass of Killieerankie ; 

Glen Tilt ; The Falls of Bruar, &c. 

Pitlochrie is on the direct route to Balmoral Castle, by Spittal of Glen- 
bee and Braemar ; and to Taymouth Castle and Kinloch-Eannoch, by 
'ummel-Bridge. 

Salmon and Trout Fishing on the Rivers Tummel and Garry, and on the 
lOchs in the neighbourhood. 

Job and Post Sorses and Carriages of every hind^ 

By the Day, Week, or Month. 

Orders by telegraph, for rooms or carriages, tuNCTtJALLY 

ATTENDED TO. 



74 



PLYMOUTH. 



The Royal Hotel, PlymoutL 



^ 



^ 







S. PEARSE, Peopbietok. 



JT jj X m.\j u xn. 




^-zf^^7z:;S^=:^S^^,^_y 


=^-=^-^r.. 




.^^^.. 




.A^^fflKBi 



75 




DUKE OP COENWALL HOTEL, 

I {Opposite the Railway Station). 

j POSTAL TELEGRAPH OFFICE, 

PLYMOUTH, DEVON. 



FIRST-CLASS FAMILY HOTEL, 

CONTAINING 

A HANDSOME GENERAL COFFEE EOOM. 

LADIES' DRAWING ROOM. 

SMOKING AND READING ROOMS. 

LARGE BILLIARD ROOM {Two Tables). 

SUITES OF APARTMENTS. 

HOT AND COLD BATHS. 



TABLE D' HOT E DAILY. 



Address to the Manager. 



76 [Ripon — Bothesay, see p. 72] rumbling bridge — Salisbury. 

RUMBLING BRIDGE HOTEL 
NEW ROUTE IN SCOTLAND. 

RUMBLING BRIDGE AND FALLS OF DEVON BY DOLLAR. 

1 hour by rail from Stirling. 
Fifteen minutes by rail from Kinross, Lochleven. 

Fine Scenery and First-class Hotel Accommodation. 

D. M*ARA, Proprietor. 



SALJSBUEY. 



WHITE HAET HOTEL, 

A N Old-establislied and well-known First-class Family 
Hotel, within half- a -minute's walk of the Close 
and Cathedral, and a pleasant drive to Stonehenge. 

A large and well-appointed Ladies' Coffee-Room is pro- 
vided. A spacious Coffee-Eoom for Gentlemen, and a first- 
class Billiard and Smoking Eoom. Hot and Cold Baths. 

Posting-master to Her Majesty. Carriages and Horses 
of every description. ^ H. T. BOWES, Manager, 

SALISBUEY. 

THREE SWANS^-FAHILY HOTEL. 

A LADIES' COFFEE-ROOM. 

A Commodious Gentlemen's Coffee-Room. 

There is no Commercial Room in this Hotel, neither is it a Limited 
Liability Company. 

HENRY FIGES, Proprietor. 



J 



SALTBrRN-BT-THE-SEA — SKTE. 77 

SALTBUEN-BT-THE-SEA.— YOEKSHIEE. 

TIE lITLiii iSTIL. 



THIS Palatial Establishment has been recently enlarged and embel- 
lislied, and now contains upwards of 150 Rooms, embracing splendid 
Cofifee-Rooms, large Drawing and Music Rooms, Bed-Rooms, Rooms en 
suite, Smoke and Billiard Rooms, etc. Extensive Livery Stabling and 
Coacli-Houses, with Rooms for Livery Servants. Carriages and Horses of 
every description. Posting in all its brandies. Excellent Cuisine. 
Wines and Spirits most carefully selected. Specialities in Old Vintage 
Ports, Clarets, etc. 

" THE ZETLAND faces the Sea, and commands magnificent Ocean and 
Inland Views, and is, for comfort, etc., acknowledged to be par excellence 
THE HOTEL OF THE NORTH." 
.Vll Visitors to this Hotel have free access into the beautiful Pleasure- 
Grounds of the Improvement Company. A Platform connects the Railway 
Station with the Hotel, and Porters are in attendance on the arrival of 
every train. Direct Telegraph communication from the Hotel. 

Private and Public Dinners, Luncheons, etc., on the shortest notice, 
"Wedding Breakfasts, Carriages, etc., provided. 

Miss BOFLDIXG, Manageress. 

SKYE. 

SLIGACHAN HOTEL 

THIS House, which has been greatly added to, is nine and 
a half miles from Portree, fifteen from Broadford, and is 
beautifully situated at the very foot of the Cuchullin Hills. 
Ponies and Guides for Coruisk, the Spar Cave, Heart-o-Corry. 
&c. (YC. Good Fisting. Posting. 

J. A. BUTTERS, Lessee. 

PORTEEE, SKYE. 

EOSS'S EOYAL HOTEL. 

THIS well-knoAYn Hotel is situated on an elevated plateau 
near the Steamboat Wharf, and commands an extensive 
view of the beautiful Bay and CuchtiUin Hills, and within easy 
access to the famous Quiraing and Coruisk. 

Coaches leave the Hotel daily (Sundays excepted) for Uig (near 
Quiraing) and Sligachan (near Coruisk), returning same evening. \ 
Posting in all its Branches. 



78 SLIGO STAFFOKD STIRLING. 

S L I G 0. 

IMPEEIAL HOTEL. 

THIS long- established and well-known Hotel is conducted on the most 
approved system. The Proprietress begs to solicit the Patronage of 
Families and Commercial Gentlemen, and trusts, by strict attention and 
moderate charges, to merit their Patronage. A Coffee-room for Ladies. 
Posting in all its branches. The " Imperial " Omnibus awaits the arrival ] 
and departure of each Train. 

STAFFOED. 

NORTH-WESTERN HOTEL 

(ADJOINING THE RAILWAY STATION). 

A FIRST-CLASS HOTEL for the Nobility and Gentry, whicli is fitted up with all 
the Requirements of a Modern Establishment, combined with Strictly Moderate 
Charges, and is under the personal superintendence of 

SARAH WOOD, Proprietress, 
HORSES and CARRIAGES in Connection with the Hotel at the Shortest Notice. 

STIELING. 

GOLDEN LION HOTEL. 

STUART, LATE CAMPBELL. 



npHIS Oldest Established and First-Class Hotel is conveniently situated 
-^ near the Railway Station and Castle. It has been newly renovated 
and improved, and affords comfortable accommodation to Tourists and 
Families visiting the Beautiful and Historical Scenery in the vicinity. 

Conveyances await the arrival of all Trains and Steamers. 

Post Horses and Carriages of every description. 

ROBERT STUART, Proprietor, 
May 1877. 

See Shearer's Guiderto Stirling and Lakes, Is. free by Post. 



STIRLING — TENBY TORQUAY TROSSACHS. 7 9 

STIRLING. 

ROYAL HOTEL. 

THIS Old-established First- Class Hotel is conveniently situated, being 
within three minutes' walk of the Railway Station, and is patronised 
by their Royal Highnesses the Prince and Princess of Wales, and other 
members of the Royal Family. 

^" Please address Letters in full to 

A. CAMPBELL, Eoyal Hotel, STiRLiNa 
TENBY. 

ROYAL GATE HOUSE HOTEL. 

COMMANDING A DELIGHTFUL VIEW OF THE BAY. 

(FAMILIES AND GENTLEMEN.) 

JOSEPH GEEGOEY, Proprietor. 
TORQUAY. 

ROYAL HOTEL. 

First-class Family Hotel overlooking the Sea. Very 
comfortable. 

W. G. KING", Proprietor and Manager, 
TROSSACHS. 

STRO:^ACLACHEE HOTEL, 

HEAD OF LOCH KATRINE. 

DONALD FERGUSON begs to return his sincere thanks to Tourists and others for 
tlieir liberal support for the last twenty-five years (since the above Hotel was 
opened). It is beautifully situated at the Head of Loch Katrine, and the only Hotel 
that commands a view of the Lake. 

It is the best Fishing Station, and Boats with experienced Boatmen are always in 
readiness. 

During the season Coaches run to and from Inversnaid, in connection with the 
Steamers on Loch Katrine and Loch Lomond. 

Carriages and other Conveyances Jceptfor Hire. 
Stronaclacher, 1877. ^ 



«u 



TROSSACHS TYNDRUM — WINDERMERE. 




THE TROSSACHS HOTEL, 

LOCH KATRINE. 

A. BLAIE, Peopeietob. 

TYNDRUM, PERTHSHIRE. 

ROYAL HOTEL. 

JAMES ANDERSON, Proprietor, 

"DEGS to intimate having taken a Lease of this Hotel, which adjoins the Station oi 
-■^ the Callander and Oban Railway, and recently built, has had it most comfortably 
furnished and fitted up. The Apartments are of a superior description, and consist of 
Coffee-Room, Dining and Private Sitting Rooms, ^and splendid Billiard-Room. The 
Bedrooms are high, airy, and cheerful. The Wines and Liquors are first quality. 
Posting in all its branches. Good Trout-Fishing on Loch Nabea, with boats, also ■ 
Fishing on River Fillan. Coaches to and from Dalmally, Inveraray, Oban, Fort-William, 
Ballachulish, and Glencoe daily, Sunday excepted. All Orders by Post or Telegi^am 
carefully attended to. Charges very Moderate.'^ 



.WINDEEMEEE. 



THE ROYAL HOTEL, BOWNESS, 



IS THE" OLDEST AT WINDERMERE LAKE. 

This Establishment is situate near the Lake, and on the Road thence to the Railwa] 

Station. A separate Ladies' Coffee-Room. Billiards, Posting, &c. 
Omnibuses from the Hotel meet all the Trains, and Private Carriages if required. 
District Coach Office. ^ 

Westmoreland smoked hams and bacon always on sale at reasonable prices. 

Mrs. SCOTT, Proprietress. 



1 



WINDERMERE YORK. 81 

WINDEEMERE. 

GLOUDSDALE'S GROWN HOTEL 

Patronised by Royalty ^American Presidents, and the RothscJiilds,* 



rHE pre-eminence of the Crown is indicated by the fact that the 
Hotel has been made a Postal Telegraph Station by Government 
uthority. 

As Head-quarters for Families and Tourists desirous of visiting the 
ther Lakes and Mountain Scenery of this Picturesque District, the Crown, 
oth by reason of its central situation and convenient access, is acknow- 
jdged to be unequalled. 

It faces the Lake and Steam Yacht Piers. 

The District Coaches run from the Crown for Ambleside, Grasmere, 
leswick ; also for Ullswater and Coniston during the Season. 

NINETY BEDS. 

Table d'Hote Daily at 6.30 P.M. 
Omnibuses attend the arrival of Trains at Windermere Station, and 
teamers at the Pier. 

YOEK. 

HARKER'S YORK HOTEL, 

ST. HELEN'S SQUARE. 

Phis long-estabUshed and First-Class Family Hotel is in the 
*- best Situation in the City, being nearest to the Minster, the 
tuins of St. Mary's Abbey, &c., and within Three Miniites' walk of 
lie Railway Station. 

P. MATTHEWS, Proprietor. 

C. ABBOTT (late Scawin), 

RAILWAY AND FAMILY HOTEL, 

{First Class) 

YORK, 

T^STABLTSHED many years. Refurnished and thoroughly Renovated. Adjoining 
Ik the Station Gates. The Largest Hotel in York. Private Rooms. Ladies' and 
entlemen's CofFee-Rooms. Every accommodation for Night Travellers. Porters 
;tend the Station Night and Day. A good Commercial connection attached to this 
[ouse. Excellent Stabling. Billiard Saloon. 2^.5.— "Ask for Abbott's Porters." 

F 



82 RAILWAYS. 

Midland Railway. 

NEW EOUTE BETWEEN ENGLAND and SCOTLANI 

THE Settle and Carlisle Railway is now open for Passenger Traffic, and an entire 
New Service of Express and Fast Trains has been established between the MidlaJi; 
System and Scotland. 

A Morning Express Train runs between London and Edinburgh and Glasgow, in eac 
direction, with Pullman Drawing-Room Cars attached, and a Night Express Train ru]| 
in each direction between the same places, with Pullman Sleeping Cars attache i 
First-Class Passengers may avail themselves of the comfort and convenience of the 
luxurious Cars on payment of a small charge in addition to the Railway Fare, partic! 
lars of which may be ascertained at the Stations. 

For the convenience of Passengers to and from the West of England and Scotlan 
a New Service of Express Passenger Trains has been established to and from Bristc 
Bath, Gloucester, and Birmingham, in connection with the Through Service betwet 
London and Edinburgh and Glasgow. 

The Up and Down Day Express Trains stop half-an-hour at Normanton, in all case 
to enable Passengers to dine. A spacious and comfortable Dining Hooui is provided i 
that Station for their accommodation. ''\ 

Through Guards, in charge of the Luggage of Passengers, travel between Londc' 
and Edinbui'gh and Glasgow by the Day and Night Express Trains in both directions. 

Passengers by this Route by the Express Trains between London and Edinburgh an' 
Glasgow are conveyed in Through Carriages of the most improved description, fitted u 
with the Westinghouse Continuous Break and all the most approved modern appliance 

Ordinary Return Tickets between Stations in England and: Stations in Scotland a] 
available for the Return Journey on any day within One Calendar Month of the date \ 
issue. 

BELFAST, 

BY THE NEW AND SHOET SEA EOUTE via BAEEOw! 

THE capacious New Docks of Barrow, situated within the ancient Harbour of Pee 
under shelter of Walney Island, being now open for traffic, the Swift and Powerfi 
First-class Paddle Steam Ships ''Antrim," *'Roe," "Talbot," and " Shelburne," wi 
sail between Barrow and Belfast (weather permitting) in connection with through Train 
on the Midland and Furness Railways ; and through Tickets to Belfast, in connectio:: 
with the Boat, will be issued from London, Northampton, Leicester, Nottingham' 
Bristol, Birmingham, Derby, Sheffield, Leeds, Bradford, and principal Stations on th 
Midland Railway — Return Tickets being available for One Calendar Month. 

Passengers to and from London, and other Stations south of Leicester, may breal 
the journey at Furness Abbey, Leeds, Derby, Trent, or Leicester ; and Passengers t< 
or from Stations west of Derby, at Furness Abbey, Leeds, or Derby, taking care tha 
from any of those places they proceed by Midland Trains. 

TOURISTS' TICKETS. 
SCOTIiAlSTD, 

During the summer months 1st and 3d Class Tourist Tickets, available for two Calen 
- dar Months, will be issued from London (St. Pancras) and principal Stations on th' 
Midland Railway to Edinburgh, Glasgow, Greenock, Melrose, Dumfries, Ayr, Stirling! 
Perth, Dundee, Aberdeen, Inverness, and other places of interest in Scotland. 

Saloon, Family, and Invalid carriages can be obtained for the use of parties travel 
ling to and from Scotland by the Midland Route, by giving a few days' notice to th> 
Station Master at any of the principal Stations, or to the Superintendent of the Line 
Derby. 



RAILWAYS. 83 

ENGLISH LAKES. 



During the Summer months 1st and 3d Class Toui'ist Tickets, available for Two 
Calendar Months, are issued from Principal Stations on the Midland Railway to Win- 
dermere, Ambleside, Grange, Furness Abbey, Penrith, Keswick, Troutbeck, and 

MORECAMBE. 

Every Saturday, from May 19th to October 8th, Cheap Excursion Tickets to More- 
jambe will be issued from Leicester, Nottingham, Derby, Sheffield, Masboro', 
Barnsley, Normanton, Leeds, Bradford, Keighley, and principal intermediate points, 
ivailable to return up to the Tuesday evening after date of issue. 

For Fares and further particulars, see Tourist Programmes and Special Hand-bills. 

MATLOCK AND BUXTON. 

^ First and Third Class Tourist Tickets are issued during the Summer Months from 
)rincipal Stations on the Midland Railway, and Lines in connection, to Matlock and 
3uxton — Tickets being available for Two Calendar Months. 

Passengers holding Tickets to Buxton are allowed to break the journey at principal 
)laces of interest on the Line between Matlock and Buxton. 

RETURN TICKETS at Low Fares will be issued to Matlock and Buxton, by any 
'f the Through Trains, on Saturdavs, from May 19th to October 8th, available for 
leturn by any Train up to the TUESDAY EVENING after date of issue. 

First and Third Class available (in most cases) for Two Months, are issued during 
he Summer Months from Principal Stations on the Midland Railway, to 

Scarboro', Whitby, Filey, Bridlington, Harrogate, Ilkley, and_]other Stations in the 
rorkshire district. 

Yarmouth, Lowestoft, Cleethorpes, and other Stations on the East Coast. 

Brighton, Hastings, Portsmouth, The Isle of Wight, Bournemouth, and other 
tations in the South of England. 

Penzance, Plymouth, Torquay, Exeter, Weston-super-mare, Ilfracombe, and other 
tations in the West of England. 
■ Newport, Monmouth, Cardiff, Swansea, Tenby, and other Stations- in South Wales. 

Aberystwith, Llandudno, Rhyl, Bangor, and other Stations in North Wales. 

Lytham, Southport, Blackpool, and other Stations on the Lancashire Coast ; and to 
•ath, Malvern, Leamington, Brecon, etc. ; as well as to Edinburgh, Glasgow, Stirling 
erth, Dundee, Dumfries, Aberdeen, Inverness, and other Principal Stations in Scot- 

For further particulars, see Tourist Programmes and Hand-bills. 



PLEASURE PARTIES. 

From 1st MAY to Blst OCTOBER 1877, 
CHEAP RETURN TICKETS 

'ill be issued to parties of not less than SIX First Class, or TEN Third Class 
kssengers, desirous of taking Pleasure Excursions to places on or adjacent to this 
ailway. 

For particulars apply to the Station-masters on the Line, or to the Superintendent 
1 the Line at Derby. 

Derby,',1877. JAMES ALLPORT, General Manager. 



84 RAILWAtS. 

LONDON & NORTH-WESTERN AND CALEDONIAN RAILWAYS. 



WEST COAST ROYAL MAIL ROUTE 

BETWEEN 

ENGLAND AND SCOTLAND. 



1st, 2d, and 3d CLASS TOUEIST TICKETS, AVAILABLE 
FOR TWO MONTHS, 

are (during the Season commencing 14th May), issued from the Principal 
Stations in England to the chief places of interest in Scotland, and alsc 
from the same places in Scotland to English Stations. 

Passengers by the Through Trains between London (Euston Station) and 
Scotland are conveyed in 

THROUGH CARRIAGES 

of the most improved description, and constructed specially for the accom' 
modation of this Traffic. 

Saloons, Family Carriages, Eeserved Compartments, and all other con- 
veniences necessary to ensure comfort on the journey can be arranged upoE 
application to Mr. G: P. Neele, Superintendent of the L. and N.-W. Line. 
Euston Station, London ; Mr. H. Ward, General Superintendent, Cale- 
donian Railway, Glasgow ; or to any of the Station-masters at the Stations 
on the West Coast Route. 

The Passenger Fares, and Horse, Carriage, and Dog Rates betweer 
London and Scotland have been revised and reduced. 

TABLE OF EXPRESS TRAINS BETWEEN LONDON AND SCOTLAND. 

DOWN JOURNEY. 



Stations. 


"Week Days. 


Sundays. | 






morn. 


mo n. 


morn. 


morn. 


niffht 


night. 


night. 


night. 


London (Euston) . 


. dep. 


5.15 


7.15 


10.0 


10.10 


8.50 


9.0 


8.50 


9.0 


Edinburgh (Princes 


3t. Stn.) arr. 


4.40 


5.50 


7.50 


9.45 


6.45 


9.0 


6.45 


9.0 


Glasgow (Buchanan 


St. Stn.) „ 


4.58 


6.0 


8 10 


10.0 


6.55 


9.15 


6.55 


9.15 


Greenock . 




6.40 


7.10 


9.5 


11.8 


■^7.50 


*11.20 


7.50 


11.20 


Stirling 






6.48 




10.27 


7.53 


*9.55 


7.53 


9.55 


Perth 






9.30 




11.35 


9.0 


ni.5 


9.0 


11.5 


Aberdeen . 










3.20 


12.40 


*4.5 


12.40 


4.5 


Inverness . 




•• 






8.55 


2.45 


*6.25 


2.45 


6.25 



No connection from London to Places marked thus (*) on Saturday Nights. S 



RAILWAYS. 
UP JOURNEY. 



85 



STATIONS. 


Week Days. 


Sundays. 




aft. 


mom. 


morn. 


mora. 


aft. 


aft. 


morn. 


night. 


Inverness . . . dep. 


7.35 






10.18 




12.40 


10.18 




Aberdeen ... ,, 


morn. 




9.15 


12.23 




4.10 


12.23 




Perth .... 


8.30 




1.55 


4.4 




7.30 


4.4 




Stirling .... 


9.30 




3.24 


5.3 




8.36 


5.3 




Greenock ... ,, 


9.U 




3.0 


4.40 










Glasgow (Buchanan St. Stn.) „ 


10.0 


10.10 


4.15 


6.0 


9.10 


, . 


6.0 


9.10 


Edinburgh (Princes St. Stn. ) „ 


10.0 


10.40 


4.25 


6.10 


9.25 




6.10 


9.25 


London (Euston) . . an-. 


8.10 


9.50 


5.30 


4.5 


*S.0 


*9'.0 


4.5 


t8.15 




night. 


night. 


mom. 


morn. 


mom. 


mora. 


morn^ 


mom. 



* From Scotland daily, except Sunday. 



t From Scotland on Sunday. 



On and after the 1st June the 10*0 a.m. Fast Express from Euston 
Station, London, will be run to Perth and Dundee. 

THE LIMITED MAIL TRAINS 

travel by this route, and are in connection with the ^lail Coaches to the 
Outlying Districts of the Highlands. These Trains have recently been 
accelerated between London and Edinburgh and Glasgow ; and additional 
accommodation and increased facilities are now afforded to passengers 
travelling by them. 

DAY SALOONS, 

with Lavatory accommodation attached, are now run between London and 
Edinburgh and Glasgow, leaving Euston Station by 10 '0 a.m. Dow-n Ex- 
press, and returning from Edinburgh and Glasgow by 10 '0 a.m. Up 
Express on Week Days. No extra charge is made for Passengers travelling 
in these Saloons, and Compartments are specially reserved for Ladies and 
Family Parties. 

SLEEPING SALOONS 

between London and Perth and Glasgow, and Carriages with Sleeping 
Compartments, are also run between London and Edinburgh by the 
Night- Trains. The extra charge for berths in the Saloons or Sleeping 
Carriages is 5s. in addition to the ordinary 1st class fare. 

Conductors, in charge of the Luggage, &c., travel by the Through Trains. 

Dog Boxes specially provided. 

Game Consignments conveyed by the Limited Mail. 

Family Luggage. — With a view of giving greater facility for the con- 
veyance of heavy Luggage by Passenger Trains, arrangements have been 
made in all the large towns for carting to the Station, at low rates, the 
Luggage of Families proceeding to Scotland, and also for forwarding such 
Luggage by Passenger Trains in advance. 

The charge for conveyance by Passenger Train is at the rate of 6d. per 
Truck per Mile, for any weight up to 50 cwts., with a minimum of 7s. 6d,, 
and exclusive of a reasonable charge for collection and delivery. 

May 1877. JBY ORDER, 



86 RAILWAYS. 

CALEDONIAN RAILWAY. 



ROYAL MAIL ROUTE 

BETWEEN 

ENGLAND AND SCOTLAND, 

DIRECT TRAINS run to and from London (Euston), Birmingham, 
Liverpool, Manchester, Leeds, Bradford, &c., and Glasgow, Edin- 
burgh, Greenock, Paisley, Dumfries, Peebles, Stirling, Perth, 
Dundee, Aberdeen, Inverness, and the North. 

g^ Sleeping and Day Saloons are run between England and Scotland. «^ 
Tourists may break their journey at various Stations on the Route. 

To Greenock, Paisley, Wemyss Bay, the Firtli of Clyde and 
the West Highlands of Scotland. 

The Company's Trains run Daily from Edinburgh, Glasgow, Carlisle, 
&c., to Greenock, Wemyss Bay, &c., in connection with the Steamers 
**Iona," ** Lord of the Isles," and other steamers, to Dunoon, Innellan, 
Rothesay, Kyles of Bute, Tarbert, Inveraray, Oban, lona, Staffa, Ballachu- 
lish, Glencoe, Fort-William, Caledonian Canal, Falls of Foyers^^ Inverness, 
Isle of Skye, and Loch-Long, Loch-Goil, Kilmun, Blairmore, Arran, &c. 

To Stirling, Callander, Dalmally, Perth, Dundee, Aberdeen, 
Inverness, &c., and the North Highlands. 

Trains run from Carlisle, Edinburgh, Glasgow, &c. , to the North, in con- 
nection with Coaches from Callander for Trossachs, Loch-Katrine, and 
Loch- Lomond ; from Crieff and Lochearnhead for Circular Tour via St. 
Fillans and Loch-Earn ; from Killin and Aberfeldy for Circular Tour via 
Loch-Tay and Taymouth Castle ; also for Tours via Dunkeld, Pitlochry, Pass 
of Killiecrankie, Blair- Athole, Inverness, Aberdeen, Isle of Skye, &c. ; from 
Tyndrum for Glenorchy, Blackmount Deer Forest, Glencoe, and Fort- 
William ; and from Dalmally for Loch- Awe, Inveraray, Taynuilt, Oban, 
lona, Staffa, &c. 

Direct Trains between Edinburgh and Glasgow. 
A full service of Trains is run by the Direct Route between Edinburgh 
and Glasgow at the most convenient hours of the day. 
For particulars, see the Company's Time Tables and Programme of Tours. 

Caledonian Railway Company's Offices, JAMES SMITHELLS, 

Glasgow, 1877. General Manager. 



RAILWAYS. 87 

GREAT WESTERE RAILWAY. 

TOURIST ARRANGEMENTS 1877. 

1st, 2d, and 3d Class Tourist Tickets, available for two calendar Months, 
and renewable (with exceptions) on payment of a certain percentage np to 
December 31st, will be issued from May 14th to October 31st inclusive, at 
the principal stations on this Eailway, to the Watering and other places of at- 
traction in the West and South of England, North and South Wales ; also to 
Malvern, the Channel Islands, Isle of Man, Scotland, and Ireland. Passengers 
holding 1st or 2d Class Tourist Tickets to the principal stations in the West of 
England can travel by the 11.45 a.»m. Express train from Paddington, which 
reaches Exeter in four hours and a quarter y and Plymouth in six hours and a 
qua/rter. 

For particulars of the various Circular Tours, Fares, and other information, 
see the Company's Tourist Programmes, which can be obtained at the Stations 
and Booking-offices. 

PICNIC AND PLEASURE PARTIES. 

During the Summer months (May 1st to October 31st inclusive), 1st, 2d, 
and 3d Class Return Tickets, available for one day only, will be issued (with 
certain exceptions and limitations) at reduced fares, at all the principal 
Stations, to parties of not less than six 1st class or ten 2d or 3d class passengers. 

To obtain these Tickets application must be made to one of the persons 
named below not less than three days before, giving full particulars of the pro- 
posed excursion. 

Cheap Return Tickets will be issued by certain trains daily from May 
1st to October 31st inclusive, from Paddington, Mooi-gate Street, and all Stations 
3n the Metropolitan Railway, to Edgware Road inclusive, Mansion House and 
ill Stations on the District Railway to Gloucester Road inclusive, Kensington 
[Addison Road), and other London Stations, to the undermentioned stations at 
the fares shown : — 

COOKHAM, \ ^^.^,^^ 



Windsor, 2s. 6d. \ Third 
Maidenhead | ^^^^ 

Taplow, ^ * 



Bourne End, i p. 

Great Marlow, I -^^^ra 
Henley-on-Thames, ) ^^* 



EXCURSION TRAINS 

it low fares will run at intervals during the season, to and from Londoi^, 
Liverpool, Manchester, Birmingham, Bristol, Worcester, Weymouth, the West 
)f England, North and South Wales, the South of Ireland, and all parts of the 
jrreat Western system. 

Full information as to Trains, Fares, Routes, etc., will be duly announced, 
md may be obtained on application to the Company's Superintendents : — 
Mr. H. Hughes and Mr. A. Higgins, Paddington ; Mr. H. Stevens, Reading ; 
VIr. T. Graham or Mr. T. W. Walton, Bristol ; Mr. E. C. Compton, Plymouth ; 
Mr. G. C. Grover, Hereford ; Mr. J. Kelley, Chester ; Mr. N. J. Burlinson, 
Birmingham ; Mr. H. Y. Adye, Worcester ; Mr. T. I. Allen, Newport (Mon.) ; 
Mr. H. Besant, Swansea ; and Mr. P. Donaldson, Pontypool Road (Mon. ) 

J. GRIERSON, 
Paddington Terminus. General Manager. 



RAILWAYS. 



NORTH BRITISH RAILWAY. 



THE WAVERLEY ROUTE between ENGLAND and SCOTLAND. 

The Waverley is the most interesting and attractive, and is the only Route which ■ 

enables the Tourist to visit Melrose (for Melrose Abbey and Abbotsford) and 

St. Boswells (for Dryburgh Abbey). 

PULLMAN DRAWING-ROOM AND SLEEPING CARS 

Are run daily by Express Trains between 
EDINBURGH and LONDON 

(Waverley Station) . (St. Pancras Station 

^* For details of Direct Express Train Service by the New Midlanc 
Route and the Waverley Route, see the North British and Midland Com 
panies' Time-tables. 

BY THE EAST COAST ROUTE 

BETWEEN 

GLASGOW, EDINBURGH, AND LONDON, 

(Queen's Street Station) (Waverley Station) _ (King's Cross Station*: 

SLEEPING CARRIAGES RUN DAILY. 

(^ For details of Direct Express Train Service by the East Coast 
Route, see the North British and East Coast Companies' Time-tables. 

EDINBURGH, GREENOCK, and IRELAND. 

THROUGH TRAINS run every Week-day between EDINBURGH (Waverley and 
Haymarket Stations) and GREENOCK (Albert Harbour), carrying Passengers to 
and from Prince's Pier, Greenock, without change of Carriage, and thus placing them 
alongside the Clyde Steamers without walking through the streets. 

THE BELFAST ROYAL MAIL STEAMERS land and embark 
passengers at Prince's Pier daily, in connection with Train to and from Edinburgh 
(Waverley and Haymarket Stations). 



t 



THE SHORTEST ROUTE to STIRLING, ALLOA, &c. 

The North British Company's own Carriages run from Glasgow (Queen Street) to 
Stirling, Alloa, &c., and vice versa. 

THE HELENSBURGH ROUTE to and from the WEST COAST. 

Return Tickets, available for going or returning on any day, are issued from Glas- 
gow (Queen Street) and Edinburgh (Waverley and Haymarket Stations), to Kil- 
creggan, Kirn, Dunoon, Garelochhead, Arrochar, and other Watering- 
Places on the Coast, at Cheap fares, which include the Pier Dues at Helensbuj'gh. 
N.B. — The above Service from and to Helensburgh Pier is given by the favourite 
Steamers ** Daoidie Dmrnorit," " Garelooli," and ** Chancellor," 



RAILWAYS. 89 

NORTH BRITISH RAILWAY. 



INVERNESS, CALEDONIAN CANAL, ISLE OF SKYE, WEST 
HIGHLANDS, and FIRTH OF CLYDE. 

I In connection with the celebrated Steamship " lONA " (in Summer and Autumn). 

IfoNTHLY Tickets for Circular Tours embracing the above-mentioned places are issued 

at Glasgow (Queen Street), Edinburgh (Waverley and Haymarket Stations), 
j and the other principal Stations on North British Railway. 

j To the TROSSACHS, LOCH KATRINE, and LOCH LOMOND. 

Seven-Day Tickets are issued at Glasgow (Queen Street), Edinburgh (Waverley 
iiind Haymarket Stations), Perth, Dundee, Stirling, Falkirk, and other Stations on 
jshe North Biitish Railway, for a Circular Tour via Callander, Trossachs, Loch Katrine, 
jLoch Lomond, and back via Dumbarton or Forth and Clyde Railway. 




For particulars of Tours, Fares, and general arrangements, see the Company's Time- 
Tables and Tourist Programme, which may be obtained from any of the Station Agents 
)f the Company, or from Mr. James M'Laren, General Superintendent, Head OflBce, 
I Edinburgh. 

J. Walker, General Manager, 
Edinburgh, 1877. 



LONDON & SOUTH-WESTERN RAILWAY, 

WATERLOO STATION, LONDON. 

;The Shortest and Quickest Eoute to the South- West and West 
of England, EXETER, BARNSTAPLE, BIDEFORD (" West- 
ward Ho !") ILFRACOMBE, NORTH and SOUTH DEVON, 
TAVISTOCK, LAUNCESTON, PLYMOUTH, WEYMOUTH, 
BOURNEMOUTH, SOUTHAMPTON, PORTSMOUTH, 
STOKES BAY, and ISLE OF WIGHT. 

Fast Expresses and Frequent Trains. 

Through Tickets in connection with the London and North- 
iWestern, Great Northern, and Midland Railways. 

Regular Mail Steam-Ships, vid Southampton, to and from the 
CHANNEL ISLANDS, JERSEY and GUERNSEY. Also 
Fast Steam-Ships for Havre, Rouen, and Paris, St. Malo, 
Cherbourg, Granville, and Honpleue. 



90 RAILWAYS. 

MIDLAND GREAT WESTERN RAILWAY OF IRELANl 



CHEAP CIRCULAR TOURS. 
TOURIST RETURN TICKETS 



II 



Are issued from Broadstone Station, Dublin, during tlie Season, available for Oi 
Month, enabling the holders to visit the magnificent and picturesque Mountain ti 
Lake District of 

CONNEMARA, 

The bold Cliffs and curious Caves of the 

COASTS OF AGHILL AND GLARE, 

The celebrated Chalybeate Spas of 

LISDOONVARNA, 

And the Romantic Scenery of the 

LAKES OF KILLARNEY. 



On the Koute are many remarkable Antiquties and places of Histork 
Interest ; and the most frequented resorts of the 



WEST OP IRELAND, 

INCLUDING THE 

Moy, Errive, Glendalough, Bally nahinch, and Galway Fisheries ; and tin 
Erris, Ballycroy, Achill, Leenane, and Recess Shooting Grounds ; ii 
the vicinity of which are 

GOOD HOTELS, 

Some of which have been recently opened, whilst others have been considerably enlarged 

RETURN THROUGH TICKETS to Connemara, available for Two Months, are 
issued in all the principal Towns in England and Scotland, by the Express and Mail 
Trains of the London and North-Western Railway, via Holyhead, and of the Midland 
and other Railways running in connection with the Steam Packets which ply between 
the ports of Liverpool, Bristol, Barrow, Silloth, and Glasgow ; and Dublin or Belfast. 
—(See Tourist Programmes of the respective Railway and Steam Packet Companies for 
Fares'and Conditions). 

mr ASK FOR A CONNEMARA TOURIST TICKET. ^ 

Tourists holding Through Tickets for Killarney and other parts of Ireland, may: 
obtain, on arrival in Dublin, Supplemental Coupons, at Reduced Fares, for the Conne- 
mara Tour, on application at Broadstone Station. 

An Illustrated Prospectus of all the Circular Tours in connection with the Midland 
Great Western system, containing Skeleton Routes for Tours of a week or fortnight,! 
a "Descriptive Guide" to the places named, and " Angler's Companion," with 
coloured maps of the Fishing districts, may be obtained, with every further information, 
required, on application at the Manager's Office, Broadstone Terminus, Dublin,' 
price 6(i. 

Broadstone, Dublin, May 1877. J. E. WARD, Manager, 



STEAMERS. 



91 



TWO SERVICES DAILY, COMMENCING 1st JUNE. 

See Monthly Time-TaUes and, Com^panys Handhills. 

SCOTLAND AND IRELAND/ 

EOYAL MAIL LINE.— DAILY SEHYICE. 

GLASGOW AND BELFAST, 

DUBLIN-, liOlSTDONDERRY, &c. 

)OYAL MAIL STEA^I SHIPS RACOON, CAMEL, LLAMA, BUFFALO, and 
^ PENGUIN, sail as under :— 



From SCOTLAND to IRELAND. 


Daily 
(Sunday sexcepted). 


From Glasgow, Broomielaw . 
From Glasgow, St. Enoch's Station 

From Paisley 

From Greenock, Prince's Pier 

Arrive at BELFAST 

From Belfast for Dublin 

Prom Belfast for Londonderry . 

From Belfast for Portrush . 


by Steamer 
by Train 
by Train 

by Steamer 
. about 
by Train 
by Train 
by Train 


, * 5 P.M. 

8 P.M. 

7.14 P.M. 

8.45 P.M. 

5 A.M, 

t 7 A.M. 

t 6.10 A.M. 

t 6.10 A.M. 



•^ On Saturdays the Steamer Sails from Glasgow at 3 p.m. 

Passengers from Edinburgh are conveyed to Greenock without change of carriage, 
y North British Train, leaving Edinburgh at 3.30 p.m., for First Service, and 6.40 p.m. 
•r Second Service; and Passengers from Aberdeen, Dundee, Perth, Stirling, &c., 
ill find in the Time Tables of the Railway Companies Trains at suitable hours. 

t Passengers can proceed from Belfast by later Trains during the day, if they choose. 



From IRELAND to SCOTLAND. 


daily 1 
(Sundays excepted). | 


From Dublin 

From Londonderry .... 
From Portrush .... 
From BEIiT AST .... 
Arrive at Greenock, Prince's Pier . 
From Greenock, Prince's Pier 
Arrive at Paisley . . .* . 
Arrive at Glasgow .... 
Arrive at Glasgow, about 


by Train 
by Train 
by Train 
by Steamer 
. about 
by Train 
by Train 
by Train 
. by Steamer 


2.0 P.M. { 
2.45 P.M. 
3.35 P.M. 

8 P.M. 

4.30 A.M. i 
4.45 A.M. 
5.15 A.M. 

5.30 a.m. 

7 A.M. 



Passengers for Edinburgh are conveyed direct from Greenock without change of 
irriage by North British Rail (Sundays excepted). No Train from Greenock to 
lasgow on Sundays. 

FARES. 

Between Glasgow, Paisley, or Greenock and Belfast — 1st Class and Cabin, 
iigle Journey, 12s. 6d. ; Return, 20s. 3d Class and Steemge, Single Journey, 4s. 
etween Glasgow, Paisley, or Greenock, and DuBLiN^lst Class and Cabin, Single 
Dumey, 25s. ; Return, 40s. 3d Class and Steerage, Single Journey, lis. Between 
LASGOW, Paisley, or Greenock, and IjOndonderry or Portrush (Giant's Causeway 
Nation)— 1st Class and Cabin, Single Journey, 22s. 6d. ; Return, 35s. 3d Class and 
teerage. Single Journey, 9s. lid. 

* Return Tickets are available for One Calendar Month. 

These Fares are exclusive of conveyance of Passengers or Luggage between the 
srminus and Steamers. Passengers are requested to take charge of their own Luggage. 

Passengers must procure Tickets before going on board the Steamers. 

Berths by all the vessels secured at the Offices of A. G. S. M'Culloch, 26 Donegal 
uay, Belfast ; and 

G. & J. BXJIINS, 267 Argyle Street, Glasgow. 



92 STEAMERS. 

FLEETWOOD TO BELFAS' 

AND THE 

KOETH OP '^^^^ IRELAND. 

EVERY EVENING ^MIKM*^ ^ (SUNDAYS EXCEPTED). 

In connection with the Lancashire and Yorkshire, and 
London and Worth- Western Railways. 

THE NOETH LANCASHIRE STEAM NAVIGATION COMPAJTY . 
Royal Mail Steam Ships, || 

Thomas Dugdale, I Duke of Conn aught (New Steamer) I 

Peincess of Wales, | Earl of Ulster (Building), 

LEAVE FLEETWOOD FOR BELFAST, i 

Every Evening (Sundays excepted), at or after 7-40 p.m., after arrivM^ 
of trains from London, Birmingham, Hull, Newcastle, Bradford, Leed^^ 
Liverpool, Manchester, Preston, and all parts of the Kingdom ; returning (^ 

FROM BELFAST TO FLEETWOOD 1] 

Every Evening (Sundays excepted), at 7-45 p.m., arriving in Fleetwood jt 
in time for early morning trains to the above places. 

FARES. — Saloon, 12s. 6d. ; Steerage, 5s. ; Return Tickets (avai] 
able for one month), Saloon, 21s. ; Steerage, 8s. 6d. Through Ticket 
(single and return) are also issued from all the principal Stations of th 
London and North -Western, Lancashire and Yorkshire, North- Eastern 
Great Western, Great Northern and Manchester, Sheffield and Lincoln 
shire Railway Companies, to Belfast, and vice versa. Return Tickets art 
available for one month. 

SPECIAL TOURISTS' TICKETS 

Are issued during the Summer Season, via the Fleetwood Route, whereb] 
Tourists may visit all places of interest in the North of Ireland and Dublin 
For particulars, see the Lancashire and Yorkshire and London and North 
Western Companies' Books of Tourists' Arrangements. 

At Fleetwood the railway trains run alongside the steamers, anci 
passengers' luggage is carried from the train at the quay on board frei 
of charge. 

Fleetwood is unrivalled as a steam packet station for the North o1 
Ireland, and the unexampled regularity with which the Belfast Line oi 
Steamers have made the passage between the two ports for more than 
thirty years, is probably without a parallel in steamboat service, and has 
made this Route the most popular, as it is certainly the most Expeditious 
and Desirable, for Passengers, Goods, and Merchandise, between the great 
centres of commerce in England, and the North and North- West of Ireland, 

For further information, see Bradshaw's Guide, page 304, or apply at, 
any of the stations of the Railway Companies before named ; T. C. Haines, 
20 Donegall Quay, Belfast; or to THOS. H. CARR, Fleetwood, 



STEAMERS. 93 




TO TOURISTS. 

STEAM TO CAITHNESS 

AND THE 

ISLANDS OF ORKNEY and SHETLAND 

^rom Granton Harbour (EDINBUEGH), and ABERDEEN, by the 
iteamships " St. Magnus," " St. Nicholas," " St. Clair," and ^^ Queen," , 
.uring summer. To Wick every Monday and Friday, to Thurso 
very Monday, to Kirkwall and Lerwick every Tuesday and Friday, 
•"ares very low, and Passenger accommodation first class. Apply 
o James M. Davy, Aberdeen Steam Wharf, 257 Wapping, London ; 
ohn^Mather & Son, 147 Queen Street, Glasgow ; George Mathie- 
ON, Agent, 16 Waterloo Place, Edinburgh ; or to John Milne, 
ilanager, Aberdeen. 

N.B, — The very fast and commodious new Steamship " Earl of 
jETLAND," built and specially adapted for the Trade, is now on the 
)assage, and will ply regularly twice a-week between Lerwick and 
he North Isles of Shetland. 

The " Earl of Zetland " has First-Class Passenger Accommodation 
Lud will give unequalled facilities for Tourists visiting the different 
Islands with every comfort. 

CHARLES MERRYLEES, Agent, Lerwick. 

NEW ROUTE. ^ 

GLASGOW AND THE HIGHLANDS. 

THE Steamer " Dunara Castle " sails from Glasgow for Colonsay, lona, 
Bunessan (Mull), Tyree, and Coll, Struan, Carbost, Dunvegan, Stein, and 
Jig (Skye), Tarbert and Rodel (Harris), Lochmaddy, Kallin, Carnan and Loch- 
)oisdale (Uist), and Barra. 

^% The Tourist who desires (within the limits of a week, and at a reason- 
ible expense) a panoramic view of the general scenery of the Hebrides, with 
ill its varied beauty, sublimity, and grandeur, has no better opportunity 
iflforded him than by the above route. 

Further inforraation and Time-hills may he had hy applying to 

MARTIN OEME, 20 Robertson Street, Glasgow. 



94 



STEAMERS. 



"ALLAN" LINE OF MAIL STEAMERJ 

Running in Connection with the 

Grand Trunk, Baltimore and Ohio, and other Railways, 

and forwarding Passengers on easy terms to all Stations in Canada and the "Wester 
and Southern States, 

Sail from Liverpool to Quebec every Thursday, calling at Londonderry to embar 
Mails and Passengers. 

From Liverpool to Baltimore via Halifax every alternate Tuesday. Cabin Fart 
to Quebec, Halifax, or Baltimore, £12, £15, or £18, according to position of Stat 
Room. 

From Glasgow to Quebec every Tuesday. Cabin Fare, £12 : 12s." 

OCEAN RETURN TICKETS issued at £22, £25, or £30, available for Twelv 
Months, from any of the American or Canadian Ports from which the Company' 
Steamers sail. 

^^ Passengers taking *' Return Tickets " by this line of Steamers can go out b; 
way of Quebec, and return by way of Baltimore, or vice, versa. , 

For further particulars apply in Montreal to Hugh and Andrew Allan ; in Quebei 
to Allans, Rae, and Company ; in Baltimore to A. Schumacher and Company ; ii 
Halifax to S. Cunard and Company; in London to Montgomerie and Greenhome, 1' 
Gracechui'ch Street ; in Glasgow to James and Alexander Allan, 70 Great Clyde Street 
or to 

ALLAN BROTHEES AND COMPANY, 
Alexandra Buildings, James Street, Liverpool. 




ABERDEEN 



LONDON 

Average Passage 
36 Hours. 



THE ABERDEEN STEAM NAVIGATION 
COMPANrS STEAMSHIPS 

BAN-RIGH, CITY OF LONDON, or CITY OF ABERDEEN,^ 

will be despatched (weather, etc., permitting) from ABERDEEN, and from Aberdeen 
Steam Wharf, Wapping, LONDON, every Wednesday and Saturday. 

Fares— including Stewards' Fees— Prim^e Catins accommodating four passengers, 
£6. Private Cabins, if occupied by fewer than four passengers, £5. 

Single Tickets— Yivst Cabin, 30s. ; Second Cabin, 15s. ; Children under fourteen 
years, 15s. and 10s. Return Tic/cete— available for three months — 45s. and 26s. ; 
Children, 26s. and 15s. 

Passengers will please observe that from the beginning of June until the end of 
September one of the London Steamboat Company's steamers will stai-t from tho 
Temple Pier, Thames Embankment, one hour before the advertised times of sailing, 
conveying passengers and their luggage alongside the Aberdeen steamers free ot 
charge. Porters in the Company's service will assist with the luggage. 

For farther particulars apply to James M. Davy, Agent, 257 Wapping ; and 102 Quecu 
Victoria Street, E.C., London ; or to Charles Shepherd, Manager, Waterloo Quay. ^ 
Aberdeen. 1 



STEAMERS MISCELL ANEO US. 9 5 




LEITH AND LONDON 

THE LONDON & EDINBURGH SHIPPING COMPANY'S 

SPLENDID FAST-SAILING SCEEW-8TEAMSHIP3 

MARMiON, lONA, MALVINA, OR MORNA, 

kil from Victoria Dock, Leith, every IVednesday and Saturday after- 
noon ; and from Hermitage Steam Whaef, London, every Wednes- 
day and Saturday morning. 

For Rates of Freight and Fares, apply to Thomas Aitken, 
8 Dock Place, Leith. 

GLAS S SH ADES. 

FERN CASES, AQUARIA, 

WINDOW CONSERVATORIES, 

t'"l AND 

: ORNAMENTAL TILE WINDOW BOXES. 

GLASS FLOWER VASES, 

FOR DINI^^ER TABLE DECORATION. 

TABLE GLASS OF ALL KINDS. 




photographic GLASS MATERIALS AND 
APPARATUS. 



iTAINEO AND PAINTED GLASS, FOR MEMORIAL, ECCLESIASTIC, OR 
DOMESTIC WINDOWS. 

GEORGE HOUGHTON AND SON, 
89 High Holborn, London. 



96 



INSl^RANCB MISCELLANEOUS. 

INSURANCE AGAINST ACCIDENTS. 



ACCIDENT INSURANCE ASSOCIiATION OF SCOTLANCI 

(LIMITED). ' 

HEAD OFFICE— 28 QUEEN STREET, EDINBURGH. 

ACCIDENTS OF ALL KINDS. 

X3 a year insures j£lOOO at Death and £6 a week during ■ 
Disablement. 30s. a year insures jBlOOO at Death. 

RAILWAY ACCIDENTS. i 

15s. a year insures XlOOO at Death, and £6 a week during 

Disablement. , 

G-EO. TODD CHIENE, Manager. ' 



TOURISTS' MAPS. 



(SELECTED FROM JOHNSTON'S "ROYAL ATLAS.") 
Mounted on Canvas, and hound in a Pocket-Case. 
America (U.S.) ... 2 Sheets, with Index of 5675 Names , 
America (South) . 



Australia 

Austria 

Belgium and the K ether 

Canada . 

China and Japan . 

England . 

India 

Ireland . 

Italy 

Mediterranean Shores 

Palestine 

Prussia . 

Scotland . 

Spain and Poi-tngal 

Sweden and Norway 

Switzerland 



ands 



5400 
1980 
6300 
5300 
3070 
2420 
11,700 
7500 
5270 
6170 
2170 
3100 
2550 
9000 
4100 
1630 
4907 



Complete Catalogue of Maps, dx., on application. 

W. & A. K JOHNSTON, 

4 ST. ANDREW SQUARE, EDINBURGH ; and 
18 PATERNOSTER ROW, LONDON, E.G. 



MISCELLANEOUS. 97 

TO TOURISTS IN IRELAND. 

LRTLETT'S (W- H.) THE SCEISTEIIY AND AISTTIQUITIES 
OP IB.ELAiN'D. — Illustrated In 119 engravings on steel, from original 
drawings, made expressly for the Work, with historical and descriptive 
text by J. Sterling Coyne, N. P. Willis, and others. Published at 42s., 
selling for 21s., Post free 23s. 

ICKLOW AIsTD KILLAHnSTEY". Views in Water Colour from 
.Original Drawings by T. L. Rowbotham, with descriptive notes by Rev. 
W. J. Loftie. B.A., F.S.A., bound in ornamental cloth, gilt edges. Pub- 
lished at 7s. 6d. ; selling for 5s. ; Post free. 5s. 6d. 

DOBE'S IBISH MELODIES, with symphonies and accompaniments, 
by Sir John Stevenson, edited by J. B. Glover, bound in ornamental cloth, 
gilt edges. Published at 12s. 6d. ; selling for 6s. ; Post free, 7s. 6d. 
VlIiL'S (Mrs. S. C.) SKETCHES OP IRISH CHARACTER, 
with numerous illustrations on steel and wood, by Daniel Maclise, Sir 
John Gilbert, W. Harvey, and G. Cruikshank. 8vo, cloth extra, gilt. 
Published at 7s. 6d. ; selling for 6s. 3d. ; Post free, 7s. 

"The Irish sketches of this lady resemble Miss Mitford's beautiful 
English sketches in *Our Village,' but they are far more vigorous and 
picturesque and bright." — Blackwood's Magazine. 

lVERTY (M.) HISTORY OP IRELAND, Ancient and Modem, 
derived from the native annals, from the most recent researches of 
eminent Irish Scholars and Antiquaries, and from State papers. Published 
at 12s. 6d. ; selling for 6s. 6d. ; Post free, 7s. 6d. 

!MS OP IRISH SCENERY, being photographs 3| x i\ in., by Payne 
Jennings, of Wicklow, Killarney, Ruined Abbeys, Castles, Round Towers, 
Rivers, Glens, and Valleys. Scraps, 6d., or mounted on Card, 9d. each ; 
7s. 6d. per dozen ; Post free, 8s. 

)reoscopic View^s of Dublin, "Wicklow, Killarney, Cork, &c., 
6s. per dozen ; Post free, 6s. 6d. 

COLOURED VIEWS OF IRISH SCENERY. 
rBLIK" — contains views of St. Patrick's Cathedral, Christ Church, Chapel 
Royal, Bank, Trinity College, Post Office, Phoenix Park, &c. &c. Is. ; 
Post free. Is. Id. 

LLARNEY — 12 views, of the Lakes, &c.. Is. ; post free. Is. Id. 
RK — contains 10 views of the city, Queenstown and River Lee, Blarney 
Castle, &c.. Is. ; post free, Is. Id. 

ANT'S CAUSEWAY and the neighbourhood, contain 11 views of the 
Causeway, Dunluce Castle, Carrick-a-Rede, Portrush, Antrim Castle, &c.. 
Is. ; post free. Is. Id. 

RVED PAPER KlXriVES, with Micro- PhotogTaphic views of Dublin, 
Is. each. 

CARSON BROTHERS, 

T6UEIST IVIAP AND GUIDE-BOOK DEPOT, 
7 GRAFTON STREET, DUBLIN. 

Agents for Bradslum's British and Continental Guide. 
(Ul Orders must be accompanied by a Cash Remittance. 



98 



MISCELLANEOUS. 



TO TOURISTS IN GLASGOW. 



Tourists and Strangers in Glasgow will find a large variety ol 
Stereoscopic and Album 

VIEWS OF SeOTTISH iSEIiEEl 

GUIDE-BOOKS AND MAPS, 



JAMES REID'S, 

BOOKSELLEE AND STATIONER, 
144 ARGYLE STREET, GLASGOW. 

AGENT FOB BRADSEAWS RAILWAY GUIDES, 
^r Fourth Shop West of Buchanan Street. 




^f 



0' 
6 



BROWN'S 
SPECTACLE, FIELD GLASS, BAROMETER, PHOTQGRAF 
AND GENERAL OPTICAL DEPOT, 

76 ST. VINCENT STREET, 
GLASGOW. 



HISCELLAITEOUS. 



99 



PHOTOGRAPHS OF SCOTTISH SCENERY 



/ BY 



J. VALENTINE, 



Photographer by 
Special Appointment 



To Her Majesty 
The Queen. 



DUNDEE, 



mbracing a very large series of the principal places of interest in the 
owlands and Highlands, in Imperial (8 x 10), Cabinet, Card, and 
iTEREOscopic Sizes. 

In reference to a series of these Views the late Earl of Dalhousie pre- 
nted to the Queen, he wrote as follows : — 

" Sir — I think it due to you, as an artist, to inform you that I had the 
mour of presenting the set of your Photographs to the Queen, and that Her 
ajesty was pleased to express her approval of them as works of art. 
** Yours truly, 

** Dalhousie. 
** To Mr. James Valentine, Dundee." 



Selections geographically arranged, made up in Morocco and 
an Tartan Wood Bindings, suitable for Presentation, from £1 : Is. to 
-.0 : 10s. each. 

Also, Illustrations of the various Tourists' districts, in Cabinet and 
Td Size. Panoramic Books in Neat Blue Cloth Bindings. 

Catalogues on application. 

These Yiews may be had of all respectable Booksellers and Printsellers ; 
JO of Agents in the districts which the Yiews illustrate. 




JOSEPH GILLOTT'S 
STEEL PENS. 

Sold By all dealers throughout the World, 



r 



MISCELLANEOUS. 



^jp^j^^i)U ABE IN HSrVERNESS YOU SHQULB- SEE r 



GREAT JEWELLERY 




ESTABLISHMENT 



WILSON, 

' 44 High Street. 

VISITORS are freely admitted to inspect tlie Shop and Manufactory, although tht 
may not wish to purchase anything. The interior is 'about one hundred ar 
twenty feet long, the front part of which is fitted up in the style of an Exhibitic 
Room or Museum, therel:^ allowing the "Visitor to walk round and see convenient " 
everything contained in the Shelves and Cases. The ''Press" has described ''the who 
as forming one of the finest places of business in the Jewellery and Watchmaking Tra( 
in the kingdom." 
JEWELLERY, 

PLATE, 

WATCHES, 

CLOCKS, 

BRONZES, 

OPTICAL GOODS, &XJ, &c.. 
Of that superior quality which has won the fame of P. G. WILSON, the COURT GOLI ■ 
SMITH and JEWELLER at INVERNESS, and extended his Business Connection a 
over the world ; and he would call attention to the fact, that while his productions ar. 
Articles for Sale are of the best quality, his prices are not higher than those of min( 
establishments, his object being to secure a large amount of patronage, and at the san 
time the approval of his Customers. 

*^* Orders hy Post receive most careful attention. 



AND 



GENEEAL WAEEHOUSEMEN, 
HOUSEHOLD FUENISHEES, 

AND 

COMPLETE OUTFITTEES, 

80 ITNION STREET, 

GLASGOW. 



MISCELLANEOUS. 101 

PHOTOGRAPHS OF SCOTTISH SCENERY. 



6. W. WILSON & CO., ABERDEEN, 

Photographers to Her Majesty in Scotland, 

"pUBLISH the largest selection of Photographs of 
"^ Scottish Scenery, comprising Views on the principal 
Tourist Eoutes, in Imperial Cabinet, and 4x3 scraps. Also 
Albums in various bindings filled with Views of the various 
districts separately, and others of a larger size illustrating a 
General Tour in Scotland. Prices from 12s. to £10 : 10s. 

Sold ly all respectable Booksellers and PrintselUrs, and by 
Agents in every district which the Vieius ilkistrate. 
Catalogues on Application. 

AMERICAN CENTENNIAL PRIZE WIEDAL 

(TENTH INTERNATIONAL MEDAL AWARDED). 

Fry's Cocoa 

In i-lb. and J-lb. Packets, Is. 4d. per lb. 

THE CARACAS COCOA, specially recommended by the 
Maittufaoturers, owes its delicious flavour to the celebrated 
Cocoa of Caracas, combined with other choice descriptions. 
Purchasers should ask specially for " Fry's Caracas Cocoa," 
to distinguish it from other varieties. 

" Caracas Cocoa has ever been considered the best of all that is produced upon 
he American soa" R. T. C. Middleton, Consul-General, Csltslcsls.— Journal of Applied 
icience. 

"A packet can easily be obtained, and its delicate flavour and fine aroma ensure its 
idoption as a beverage for breakfast or su-p^er."— Standard. 



J. S. FRY AND SONS, BRISTOL AND LONOON. 



102 



MISCELLANEOUS. 



PRIZE 

LONDON, 

1862. 



MEDALS, 

PARIS, 
1867. 





WmHl$c^t 



&©mmi 



&WELLE R 
EDINBURGH 




"Mr. Marshall's productions are not surpassed in interest and beauty by those 
Castellani himself." — Correspondent of the Scotsman on the International Exhibition. 

FISHING TACKLE. 

Gentlemen visiting Edinburgh will find a first-class Assortment of 

Salmon and Trout Eods, Eeels, Lines, Flies^ &c 

Suited for the Scottish Lakes and Kivers, at 

PHIN^S FISHING-TACKLE WAEEHOUSE, 

80b Princes Street, First Door up Stairs, 

All of Best Material and Workmanship, and at Moderate Prices. 

Established upwards of Fifty Years, 

Observe— 80 rPRINCES STREET, next the Life Association new building 

MACARA'S SCOTCH PHOTOGRAPHS, 

with Historical Description. 
No. 1. The Wewhaven Fishwife. No. 2. The Scotch Washing 

C. de V. Size— Plain 6d. ; Coloured, Is. 
Cabinet „ „ Is. „ 2s. 

N,B, — Macara's Series of Scotch Photos are guaranteed to be lona Jid 
Portraits, and must bear his signature to be genuine. 

D. MACAEA, Stationer, 

8 COCKBURN STREET, WAYERLEY BRIDGE, 
EDINBURGH. 



MISCELLANEOUS. KTS 

EOYAL IRISH POPLINS. 



" They have never been surpassed for "beauty and elegance." — Court Jownial. 

" They outlast every other material." — Graphic. 

*' No dress so attractive at any promenade, or so becoming to yoxmg or old." 

O'REILLY, DUNNE, & CO., 

POPLIN MANUFACTURERS TO THE ROYAL FAMILY. 

(neaklt a centuky established. ) 

Besides all the New Shades (Plain and Brocaded) of the Season, an exquisite assort- 

ent of Whites, Silvers, Pearls, &c., for Bridal Dresses. 

Ladies who find it so difficult to obtain Good BLACK Silks (a favourite Dress with 

eiy Lady) wHl do well to try O'Reilly, Du^tn'e, & Co.'s BLACK SILK IKISH 

POPLINS, which, with infinitely more lustre, so far surpass Silks in wear as to 

r-.nder them the most durable as well as beautiful of all fabrics — preserving their 

» 'JSTRE TO the last, 

N.B.-LUSTEOUS BLACK POPLINS AS SUPPLIED TO HER MAJESTY. 

Fatterns post free. Parcels carriage paid. 



ROYAL POPLIN FACTORY, 

30 COLLEGE GREEN, DUBLIN. 

TURKEY, INDIAN, & PERSIAN 
CARPETS. 

MANUFACTURED FOR AND IMPORTED BY 

fATSON, BONTOR, & COMPANY, 

CARPST MANUFACTURERS TO 

HER MAJESTY THE QUEEN 

AND 

HJI.H, THE PRINCE OF WALES; 

id makers of Superior HAND-LOOM CARPETS, in patterns of their own 
exclusive designs, and suitable for every style of decoration. 

'ine BENGAL MATTING, six yards wide. Rooms covered in One Piece. 



fos. 35 & 36 OLD BOND STREET, LONDON, W, 



104 



MISCELLANEOUS. 



Clan Tartan Warehouse. 




NEILSON, SHAW AND lYIAGGREGOR, 

44 BUCHANAN STREET, GLASGOW .' 
SiLK MERCERS, LINEN AND WOOLLEN DRAPERS, ' 

SHAWL IMPORTERS, AND GENERAL WAREHOUSEMEN' 

DEPARTMENTS— 
British, and Foreign Silks. Clan and Fancy Tartans, 

French and Paisley Shawls. Scotch and English Twee . 

Real Shetland Shawls. Real Aberdeen Winceys. ^^ 

Hosiery. Prints. Grenadines. Ribbons. Linen ^L 

Gloves. Bareges. Paramattas. Flowers. Shirti :?, 

Parasols. Alpaccas. Knitting Yarns. Feathers. FlanneA^ 

Merinoes. Muslins. Trimmings. Laces. Bed-Ticl^ 

Ooburgs. Cambrics. Small "Wares. Furs., Blankets 

A Large Saloon for MANTLES, MILLINERY, LADIES' OUTFIT, etc. b 
MARRIAGE TROUSSEAUX of the Best Materials and Workmanse S. 

UPHOLSTERY DEPARTMENT. 
CARPETS, OIL CLOTHS, WINDOW CORNICES, and CURTAIN -FABI 1 
SCOTCH SHEETINGS, TABLE LINEN, etc. 

A FULL STOCK OF SUMMER COSTUMES f 

READY-MADE, OR MADE TO ORDER AT A FEW HOURS' NOTICE 
For Coast and Travelling Season. 



FAMILY MOURNINGS. 

The Best Materials supplied in all the Departments. 
A Competent Person sent to Residences in Town or Country to take instructions wht 

required. 



TAILORING DEPARTMENT. 

For GENTLEMEN'S and BOYS' SUITS, 

A Large Variety of Scotch, English, and German Tweeds, Heather Mixtures, etc., 

always in Stock. 

SHOOTING COATS, ULSTER COATS, HIGHLAND CAPES, etc., 

Made to Order on the shortest notice. 

1^" FIRST-CLASS CUTTER ON THE PREMISES. 

This NEW DEPARTMENT applies also to LADIES' JACKETS, RIDING HABITS, 

COSTUMES, BODDICES, and to MINISTBK-S' GOWNS^and CASSOCKS. 



MISCELLANEOUS. 



105 



BIRMINGHAM. 

MESSENGER & SONS, 

MAirrFACTURERS OF 

CHANDELIERS, CANDELABRA AND GAS FITTIFGS 

IN BRONZE AND ORMOLU : 

Carefully constructed on'a principle to avoid the Escape and Odour of G^'S 




XBSSBJraBB ASD bows' 018 R is t^^^ IN^THBIfATIOH-AL BXHJLBZXZOV* 

^^^^^ AWARDED. 

EPORT OF THE JURORS : — " Messenger and Sons, for great progress, i 

for Elegance of Design and Excellent Workmanship." 
IRON BAHiinSTGS FOR STAIRCASES, BALCONIES, 

Also, Manufacturers and Patentees of 
-AILAATAY SIGNAL, CARRIAGE ROOF, AND OT 
LAMPS AND CARRIAGK FURNITURE. 



' 6 MISCELLANEOUS. 

Dr. J. COLLIS BROWNE'S 

OH L P RO D YNE 

THE OEIG INAL AND ONLY GENUINE. 

OlILORODYNE is the best remedy known for Coughs, C< 

SUMPTION, Bronchitis, Asthma. 
GHLORODYNE effectually checks and arrests those too of., 

fatal diseases known as Diphtheria, Fev; 

Croup, Ague. 
CHLORODYNE acts like a charm in Diarrhcea, and is 1; 

only specific in Cholera and Dysentery. 
OH LORD DYNE effectually cuts short all attacks of Epilepi 

Hysteria, Palpitation, and Spasms. 
til LORO DYNE is the only palliative in !N'euralgia, EHEU^^ 

tism. Gout, Cancer, Toothache, Meni 

GITIS, &c. 

3 Right Hon. EARL RUSSELL lias graciously favoured J. T. DAVENPORT witi 

tlie following : — 
'Earl Russell communicated to the College of Physicians that he receivec 
)atch from Her Majesty's Consul at Manilla, to the effect that Cholera has ht 
ig fearfully, and that the only remedy of any service was CHLORODYNE." — I 

ztt, December 1st, 1864. 

From W. Vesalius Pettigrew, M.D. 
have no hesitation in stating that I never met with any medicine so eflacacious 
vnti-spasmodic and Sedative. I have used it in Consumption, Asthma, Diarrh( 
'. other diseases, and am perfectly satisfied with the results. 

From Dr. B. J. Boulton & Co.j Horncastle. 

We have made pretty extensive use of Chlorodyne in our practice lately, and Ic 

'01 it as an excellent Sedative and Anti-spasmodic. It seems to allay pain a 

in ation in whatever organ and from whatever cause. It induces a feeling of comf' 

unJ quietude not obtainable by any other remedy, and it seems to possess this gr( 

ai , mtage over all other Sedatives, that it leaves no unpleasant after-effects. 



^JAUTION.— The extraordinary medical reports on the efficacy of Chlorodyne renc 
. vital importance that the public should obtain the genuine, which bears the wor 
I'. J. Collis Browne's Chlorodyne." 

7ice-Chancellor Wood stated that Dr. J. COLLIS BROWNE was undoubtedly t 
mtor of CHLORODYNE ; that the whole story of the defendant Freeman w 
lOerately untrue. 

Lord Chancellor Selborne and Lord Justice James stated that the defendant h 
i e a deliberate misrepresentation of the decision of Viee-Chancellor Wood. 
Chemists throughout the land confirm this decision that Dr. J. C. BROWNE w 
the Inventor of CHLORODYNE. 

Sold in Bottles at Is. lid., 2s. 9d., and 4s. 6d., by all Chemists. 

Sole Manufacturer : 

J. T. DAVENPORT, 33 Great Russell Street, Bloomsbury, Loia)ON. 



MI SCELLANEOUS. 107 



MOURNING FOR LADIES 



Tl/TESSES. JAY, anxious to remove the impression 
which they find has gained undue circulation, 
that none but the richest materials in Costumes, Mantles, 
and Millinery, are sold at their Establishment, deem it 
a duty to themselves and the Public to assure all families 
who have not yet dealt at Jay's Mourning Warehouse, 
that good wearing materials are cut from the piece, and 
at more than an equivalent for the price, which is from 
Is. per yard upwards, and Crape from Is. 9d. per yard. 

Messrs. Jay have always at command experienced 
Dressmakers and Milliners, who act as travellers, so that 
in the event of immediate Mourning being required, or 
any other sudden emergency for dress, one can be de- 
spatched to any part of the kingdom on receipt of a letter 
or telegram, without any expense whatever to the pur- 
chaser. All articles are marked. in plain figures, and 
charges are the same as if the goods were bought for 
ready money at the Warehouse. 

JAY'S, 

THE LONDON GENERAL MOURNING WAREHOUSE, 

REGENT STREET, LONDON, W. 



108 



MISCELLANEOUS. 



DOLLOND, 

MANUFACTURING OPTICIAr 

1 LUDGATE HILL, LONDON. 



TOURISTS' 
FIELD-GLASSES 

42s. 

Carriage Free. 




OPERA-GLASI 

21s. 

On receipt c 
P. 0. Order 



nni I nun'O (educational achromatic) rirr . -t c , 

UULLUllU O i ASTRONOMICAL TELESCOPE f 3b f . iU . 



DOLLOND'S { 



TOURISTS' 1 

POCKET TELESCOPES j 



from 10s. i€ 



DOLLOND'S { 



TRUE NORTH " AND OTHER 
POCKET COMPASSES 



} from ^ 



nni I riKin'O (pedometers, for registering) O'l 

UULLUrtUu 1 the distance walked i" -a J 



DOLLOND'S { 



COMPENSATED ) ^Q . CJ 

pocket aneroid barometers f 30<J m KJ 



DOLIOND'S I 



COMPOUND microscopes. 
THE STUDENT'S 



} £4:4 



PRICE-LISTS FREE. ESTABLISHED 1750. 



MISCELLANEOUS. 



109 



ATERPKOOFS FOR TOURISTS 
IHP&BTANT TO VISITORS TO THE HIGHLANDS. 

;bMISTON &SON 

(From 5 Charing Cross) 
WATERPROOFERS, SOLE MAKERS OF THE 

^^^^^2"^9o POCKET 
SIPHONIA 

OVEIGHT 12 OZ.), 

The only WATERPROOF GOAT 

guaranteed NOT to become STICKY^ 

and thoroughly reliable. 

Price, from 42s. 

Leggings, from 15s. Bd.; Stout 
Siphonias, ft*oni 42s. 

DOUBLE TEXTURE SCOTCH TWEED 
WATERPROOF COATS 

with India Kubber between two layers of 
cloth — no shiny surface. 

IDIES' SIPHONIA CLOAKS, with Hoods and Sleeves. 

Ladies' WATERPEOOF Travelling Tweed CLOAKS. 
veiling Rugs and Waterp'oof Rug and Cloak Covers with stra;ps, 
AIR PILLO^A^S AND CUSHIONS, 

effectually prevent JOLTING in Coach and R,ailway Travelling. 
.ent Portable POCKET BATHS from 21s.; Fishing Stockings^ 

gues, and "Wading Trousers; Portmanteaus, Trunks, and 
;7elling Bags; CORK BEDS and "WATl^RPROOF TELE-^ 
'^:i?E CODERS for Deer Stalking. 

' : , • ' Detailed Price Lists free on ajpjplication or hy post. 




E D 1VI I S T O N & SON, 

L4 COCKSPUH STREET, 

LL MALL, LONDON, S.W. (opposite the Haymarket) 



110 



MISCELLANEOUS. 





LADIES 
TRAVELLING, 

^^l^^^^^^l Visiting the Sea-side, or otherwise exposed 
_ ^Ed'S^^ ©Mil the scorching rays of the Sun and heated parti* 

I COMPLEXION of Dust, Will find 

rowlands 
Kalydor 

A most refreshing and cooling preparat 



'_!^ for the complexion, dispelling the cloud 
languor and relaxation, and allaying all h 
and irritability. Freckles, Tan Spots, Pimples, Flushes, j 
Discoloration fly before its application, and give place to delic 
smoothness and the glow of beauty and of bloom. In cases of Si 
burn, or Stings of Insects, its virtues have been long acknowledged 
Price 4s. 6d. and 8s. 6d. per bottle. 

The heat of the summer also frequently communicates a dryn 
to the hair, and a tendency to fall off, which may be complet 
obviated by the use of 

ROWLANDS' MACASSAR OIL 

A delightful, fragrant, and transparent preparation, and, as 
invigorator, beyond all precedent. — Price 3s. 6d., 7s., 10s. 
equal to four small, and 21s. per bottle. 

ROWLAND'SODONTO 

OR PEARL DENTIFRICE, 
Bestows on the Teeth a Pearl-like Whiteness, frees them fr 
Tartar, and imparts to the Gums a healthy firmness, and to i 
Breath a delicate fragrance. — Price 2s. 9d. per Box. 

Sold by all Chemists, Perfumers, and Hairdressers, 
V Ask for " ROWLAND'S ARTICLES," and buy nc 
but Rowland's. 



MISCELLANEOUS. 11 1 1 









rO^ , ^S»^ '''S> 



ALEXANDER FERGUSON, 

1 MELBOURNE PLACE. 

THE BEST PRESENT FROM EDINBURGH. 

FERGUSON'S "EDINBURGH ROCK," 

MANUFACTURED ONLY BY 

ALEX, FERGUSON, 

Zmtzdiamt to f§»fH» tfje (^nttn, ant? to l^M.l^. tfje Biikt of ^Uinburgf;* 

Jie meilleur Souvenir ou cadeau (T Edimbourg. 
ERGUSON'S "EDINBURGH ROCK," 

fabriqud seuleme7it par 

ALEX. FERGUSON, 

Confiseur de Sa Majeste la reine et son Altesse Roy ale le due 
d^Edi7?tbourg. 

(au§ fcinj^em 3«c!er), 
einjig unb allem crjeugt t)on 

Ecnbitor 'S^xu SKajeftaet ber ^ontgm unb (©r ^ongl: ^ol^eit bgc 



L* OTTIMO DONG REGALO B'EDIMBURGO. 

ERGUSON^S "EDINBURGH ROCK/' 

FABRICATO SOLAMENTE DA 

ALEX. FERGUSON, 

ifettiiriere di Sua Maesta la Regina,e di Sua Altezza il Duca d'Edimburgo. 



112 



MISCELLANEOUS. 



BY APPOINTMENT. 

TO HJliti. THE PRINCE OF WALES. 



ALIEN'S PORTMANTEAUS 



37 WEST STRAND , LONDON. 

New Illustrated Catalogues of 500 Articles for 
Continental Travelling, Post Free. 




ALLEN'S PATENT QUADRUPLE 
PORTMANTEAU 




LADY'S WARDROBE PORTMANTEAU, 
SOLID LEATHER 




ALLEN'S PATENT 
DESPATCH-BOX DESK 



SOLID LEATHER 
: DRESSING-CASE 



PATENT 

SOLID LEATHER 

PORTMANTEAU 




ALLEN'S NEW 
DRESSING-BAG 



TEN GUINEA 
SILVER DReSSlNG-BAG 



ALLEN'S 
PATENT BAG 



Also, 



Allen's Barrack-Furnitiire Catalogue for Officers Joining, 

POST FREE. 

PRIZE MEDAL AWARDED 

FOR GENERAL EXCELLENCE. 
(DISCOUNT FOR CASH 10 PER CENT.) 




BLACK'S GUIDE-BOOKS 



Aberdeen and Braemar, Is 
Alton Towerb and Dovedale, 1b 
Belfast and Giant's Causeway, Is 6d 
Brighton, Is 

Buxton, Is % « ftri 

Channel Islands (Jersey, Gnernsoy. Aldemey), 8s Ott 
Cheltenham and Bath, Is 

Cornwall (and SeiUy Isles), 2s Od 

Derbyshire (Buxton, Matlock, diatswortli), 2S? Cd 

Devonshire (Torquay, Plymouth, Exeter), 2s 6d 

Dorsetshire (Swanage, "Weymouth, &c.), Is ^4 

Dorset, Devon, and CornwaU (in i vol.), 68 

Dublin and-Wicklow, Is 6d 

Edinburgh and Environs, Is 

England (with Plajis of Towns), lOs Cd 

English Lakes (Flintoft's& Foster's illustrations}. »S 04 

Cheap Edition, Is 
GolwaT, Gownemara, end the Shannon, Is ed 

I ilasgoW'^^ Environs, Is 
aiouoester (Bristol and Cheltenham), M oa 



.«• 



